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(Topic ID: 169818)

Jurassic Park Restoration


By Lonzo

4 years ago



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  • 626 posts
  • 82 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Lonzo
  • Topic is favorited by 100 Pinsiders

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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 13.
#101 3 years ago

Ok, I know I said I was gonna wait on the Trex hole color but Mr. OCD showed up today and he wasn't feeling it so I sanded it all off and started again. I am always looking for something a little different. I was looking at paint today and I saw some Createx Pearl paint. This paint works best when painted on a white or black background depending on what look you are going for. I decided to go with the white. I printed up some more masks and went to work.

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Then, the pearl paint was applied.
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I am kinda liking it. I think the color is more in line than the first one. I can always change it.

#102 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I can always change it.

Glad you're thinking that way.

I'd be like, "GAHHH! I don't really like it. But it's too much freaking work to mask everything again. Then I have to get all the paint ready. Then I have to clean up all the paint stuff. Then I have to wait for it to dry. F-it, it's good enough."

Looks great so far.

1 week later
#104 3 years ago

Lots going on today. My goal was to get the fluorescent orange painted. It was the most complicated color to paint so I wanted to knock it out. Here is a shot of the playfield before the paint. All the orange is faded badly. In a previous post I showed the area under the upper flipper that shows the original color. You can also see it in the picture below.
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I will say that these colored dots are from the devil.
They make the painting more complicated. I was not able to mask every one of them so some will have to be added back later.
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Ready to paint.
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The fluorescent paint has its pros and cons. The pro is that it is a transparent paint. This allows it to darken the area but also allows the red halftones to show through so I will not have to redo those. The con is that it is transparent so it wont cover anything up.
Because of this, any dark areas will show through. So the insert ring cracks and the wear area on the shooter lane have to be fixed. I had to paint both areas white to make the base uniform before applying the orange.
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Can anyone see the area I forgot to paint white? I remembered as soon as I shot the first layer of orange. The scoop area that was repaired extended into the orange so it has to be painted white as well.
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White applied.
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I covered the spot that was under the upper flipper so I could use it for a reference to match the color I was painting.
After a few coats it was a pretty good match.
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Since the area under the flippers was probably still a little faded, I shot a couple more coats to finish it off and blend everything.
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Now the fun part of taking all the masks off. I think I did to much at once on this one. It took me a while to get all the masks on and everything covered. This caused the masks to be stuck more than I like by the time I was done. Next time I will not do this much at one time. Here is the playfield with all the masks removed.
As a note, the camera does not really pick up the true color of the orange. It is much more vibrant than the pictures show.
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Here is where the day that was going so well, took a bit of a turn. As with any restoration, things pop up from time to time and you just have to roll with it. At this point in the process, I had not noticed the problem yet. Some of you detail types may have seen it in the previous picture. Here are a few shots of the orange areas up close (along with the problem).

Insert ring and Smart missile ring.
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Left lane. Remember how it was faded under the mylar?
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Shooter lane, dino scales and the shirt in the Explorer.
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Center lane. Mr. Hammond is much more visible with the background orange instead of washed out yellow. All the flames and details are back. And the red halftones are still present (The camera is not picking them up very well but they are there and look great)
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Well, If you haven't noticed it by now, the left pointing jackpot arrow is ghosting on the tip. You can tell by the pics that the ghosting was not present in the picture of the payfiled painted with all the masks on. I was very careful taking the masks off and I even remember taking the mask off that arrow and there was nothing there. Sometime between the time I took the mask off and took that overview picture of the playfield, the insert delaminated. You can tell by the picture that the delamination occurred between the plastic insert and the factory clear. You can tell because the black insert line is perfect and that was screened over the plastic.
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The best option was to cut the clear off the entire insert. The top area came off really easy so there was definitely a problem from the factory. I just hope it is isolated to this one insert. The lower part was stuck better which makes me feel better. You can see in the following picture that I trimmed into the wood area on the bottom of the insert and the clear was very hard to remove from that area so the clear is adhering to the playfield very well.
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It stinks that this happened but it can be fixed and I am glad it happened now instead of after it was finished. I do not want to risk messing up any of the orange paint so I am going to clear again before I do any more work to the playfield. I have done several colors and its time to seal them in. My target is to clear on Monday.

#105 3 years ago

I forgot to take a picture earlier of the new paint with the black light.
She really glows now.

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#106 3 years ago

I was not happy with the orange insert by Nedry's head. The ring was just slightly smaller that in should be so I was not happy with how it butted up next to the black. There was also a flake of paint missing, Probably from taking the mask off due to the extra layers of paint because I shot orange first. I just figured I would start over on that one. That left the center of the playfield with no paint on it so I was able to paint another section without getting anywhere near the orange. The stampede computer insert had a seam that went up into the brown area above it near where Mr Hammond has his arm. Went ahead and fixed that.
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In this picture, you can also see where I sanded off the orange insert.
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#107 3 years ago

looking goood!!!

#108 3 years ago

What type/brand/model of air brush gear are you using?

I'm thinking getting a entry level gun for solid color touch up. Also thinking reusing my little workshop compressor.

Any recommendation?

#109 3 years ago

This is my first big air brush project. I used a quick change on my Fire project but it was pretty cheap and was really only good for one project. I am now using a "real" air Brush. I am actually using a Harbor freight brush and it is working very well and I am happy with it. At some point, I might upgrade but I am happy with the results so far. Biggest thing is making sure the paint is thin enough or it clogs. I actually have two and that comes in handy when I had to paint the white and then a color.

#110 3 years ago

Is the reservoir on top or botttom?

#111 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Is the reservoir on top or botttom?

Bottom

#112 3 years ago

I decided not to clear yet. There is not much paint on the lower playfield so I wanted to do more painting before the next clear.

I had to repair and calibrate my cutter yesterday. All the larger masks I have already cut, will have to be re cut as they are to large by a miniscule amount but when you are mask painting, it makes a difference. I cut some new masks last night and got to work.

I did not like the way the switch cutout looked like on the Raptor pit lane. It looks sloppy with a darker yellow and its very non uniform. My buddy's is the same way so it is a factory issue but I don't like it.
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Finished. All nice and bright. Much better.
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Black is one of the colors that you can SOMETIMES get away with painting just the spot that need fixed and not the entire area. Here is one of the inserts on the top left of the playfield that will need fixed.
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Here it is with the paint applied. You can see it now, but wiping Naphtha on it gives you a true color of what it will look like when cleared.
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In this case you cannot see the paint when you do that so I am hoping that I can do that and not have to do the entire ring. Also there are several areas in the center of the playfield that I hope I don't have to paint larger areas, You can see them in some of the pictures below.

Next, I fixed the insert cracks that are in the blue area. I only did one area first just incase I was not happy with the color. Less I have to take off.

Insert crack
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Finished.
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I was very happy with the color match. I did the Naphtha test and it looked perfect to me. I went ahead and fixed two more spots.

Here is the one that had the screen printing issue with a few white half-tones showing up.
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Here is another insert crack. I cheated a little bit on this mask. Normally you have to paint an entire area to a border so the color is uniform. I had no desire to paint around all the dots so in this case, I stopped the mask at the dinos ear. This is such a small spot, that a paint seem should not show up.
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Finished.
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There is one more blue insert crack to fix by the TRex but that is one of the larger masks that had the sizing error so I will have to recut it tonight and then paint.

#113 3 years ago

wow, turning out realy nice!
great job!

#114 3 years ago

Very nice indeed. Have you cleared over any color yet?

#115 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Very nice indeed. Have you cleared over any color yet?

I did a base clear but have not cleared any paint yet. Have just a bit more and I will clear again. After that I will do more painting.

#116 3 years ago

Thanks, following closely.

#117 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Just an update on the plastics I ordered. I got mine in and they look great except for one problem. Two are missing. The ring that goes around the TRex and the upper left corner plastic. I am working with them right now. It appears they did not know the set was not complete. They were apologetic and asked if I could send scans. I sent them scans of the two plastics and I hope they add them to the set and send them to me when they finish cleaning up the art.
My TRex ring is in pretty good shape. I used a heat gut to flatten it and it looks almost new. I really need that corner piece though, so I hope they come through for me. Those were not cheap when you add the shipping.

Where did you finally get the plastics? I just broke my bunker installing my scoop mods

#118 3 years ago

He got them from pinball center. I'm curious to see how they look! Wish they made an easy break set for JP.

#119 3 years ago

Yes. I got them from pinball center. They look awesome but was kind of a fiasco to get. They were missing two plastics so I sent them scans of mine and they made new ones to send me. They tried to charge me for them but I called them on it. Still had to pay shipping though. The last time I looked they still had not included them in the set.

#120 3 years ago

Got some more masks cut last night. I finished up the last blue section.

Crack
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I started over with the Arrow insert below the raptor pit. Pretty big mark on the upper right side.
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This time I took another approach. The yellow was not covering the black crack up very well so I decided to put a layer of white down first to soften up the dark areas.
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This allowed me to use much less yellow paint and provided a much better result than the first attempt using just the yellow.
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Now its back to the Fluorescent orange insert that I sanded off.
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The white marks on the inserts make things more difficult. I was not happy with painting the color in segments. I now am going to paint the ring the solid base color and then add the segments after I clear. I think this will make the insert look much sharper than painting it all in segments. As discussed earlier, the Fluorescent orange is transparent so the white layer is needed to cover the crack marks before applying the orange.
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Next I painted the shooter lane. This had a repair so I had to do something to it.
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I decided to try and match the darker color of wood that was on the lane.
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It covered the repair very well. If you look real close, you can see a hint of the grain showing through which is fine. My goal is to use some transparent browns to add some of the grain back in after I clear. I have never attempted that so I guess we are gonna find out if I am actually an artist.
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As a side note, I picked these pointed q-tip looking things at Hobby Lobby. The tips are very rigid and are awesome for removing adhesive or paint from a very confined space. The make two different sizes.
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Just a couple more things to paint and then ready to clear.

#121 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Yes. I got them from pinball center. They look awesome but was kind of a fiasco to get. They were missing two plastics so I sent them scans of mine and they made new ones to send me. They tried to charge me for them but I called them on it. Still had to pay shipping though. The last time I looked they still had not included them in the set.

Yeah it doesn't look like the bunker is in there

#122 3 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Yeah it doesn't look like the bunker is in there

Post a picture of it. Not sure exactly which one you are talking about.

#123 3 years ago

do you mean the one at the popbumpers?

i believe they have it but its listed as t-rex plastic

#124 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

do you mean the one at the popbumpers?
i believe they have it but its listed as t-rex plastic

It was included in my set.

#125 3 years ago

the black paint that is under the Apron was rubbed off by the apron so I used Friskit to create the mask to paint it.
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Took me a while buy got a good match on the blue paint for the rings. I did the upper blue ship ring first to try it out. There are two others in the center that I might go ahead and do before I clear.
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I will put the white on after the next clear.

#126 3 years ago

Got the last couple of things done before the next clear. White is a very hard color to match. The Cretatex White is too white so after some mixing I think I got a pretty close match. I decided to go ahead and paint all three solid white areas.
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I decided not to do the two blue rings now. You waste a lot of paint when you transfer paint to your airbrush jar. I am a little afraid that If I split up the paint sessions for the blue, I might not have enough paint and I don't want to have to mix more. I would rather paint them all at once.

Went ahead and set up for clearing.
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Now I just have to find the time.

#127 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

It was included in my set.

I keep forgetting to check the posts lol...im used to sites that email you when you are subscribed/favorited.

The set is still unavailable, but it is pictured in there on their item...I guess I forgot when checking it was a actually a bigger piece that went all the way down from pop bumper over the 3 drop targets to the left of the bunker under the ramp too. Phone picture didn't quite come out as good as the video above with me breaking it lol.

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#128 3 years ago

Looking forward for the clear, what stuff are you using?

#129 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Looking forward for the clear, what stuff are you using?

I use SW Finish One 2 part auto clear. I have been using it for a few years and I have been pretty happy with it. I don't have any experience with other clears so I can't compare them.

#130 3 years ago

How do you cover any larger holes/slots to prevent clear to spray on the underside? Tape?

Also, about the box you made, does it have any support in the middle to keep the playfield flat for clearcoating?

#131 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

How do you cover any larger holes/slots to prevent clear to spray on the underside? Tape?
Also, about the box you made, does it have any support in the middle to keep the playfield flat for clearcoating?

I document larger holes earlier in this thread. I use tape on some when needed. The box is open on the bottom and I use saw horses so any clear that makes it through a hole should continue down to the floor. I try and fix any switch etc away from any hole and if needed, I will put a plastic bag around them. I don't mind if a mist of clear gets on a wire though.

As far as the box is concerned. The playfield is supported full length on both sides which is more support than it had in a game so I don't consider that to be an issue.

#132 3 years ago

Got the playfield cleared today. On the inserts that I had to cut the clear off of, I dropped clear to fill them up. I will sand all that flat after it cures. Pretty happy with the results but as of now, I will let it sit for a week or so. I might lightly sand the dropped inserts tomorrow.
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1 week later
#134 3 years ago

Any updates?

#135 3 years ago
Quoted from TxJay:

Any updates?

Thanks for checking. Been very busy at work. Just got home yesterday from 11 out of 15 days on the road. Finally have some time off and plan on working on it. Sucks when work gets in the way of fun stuff. Oh wait, work pays for the fun stuff.

#136 3 years ago

Got the playfield sanded today and overall, I am really happy with the progress to this point. A few minor issues I had to take care off but all are fixed now and ready to continue. I am really happy with how all the orange turned out. Of course since it has been sanded, the pics do not show the colors all that well.
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Really happy with the blue match.
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Also, The inserts that I had to cut out due to ghosting are all filled and sanded flat again. I also cut all three clear flasher inserts out that are between the pop bumpers because of just a hint of ghosting that wasn't really visible unless you really looked but I didn't want to take a chance. I forgot to document those before I cleared. I am also really happy with the light blue insert ring color.
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Its always feels good to get the playfield sanded. Kinda feels like you got a new slate to work on since everything is locked in.

#137 3 years ago

Lookin good man!

#138 3 years ago

What grit do you sand the clear before doing touch ups? Hand block or orbital sander?

#139 3 years ago

If I know I am clearing again and I need to level stuff then I block sand with 320-400. During my finishing phase I use an orbital sander starting with about 600 and working up and in the past, I have done that wet. I haven't tried an orbital dry yet. The finest orbital paper I can find is 320 and that makes me a little nervous to use dry.

#140 3 years ago

Painted the yellow lines today. I have to sat that I am not a fan of the create yellow. It is about as opaque as my pee. I also noticed that not all the yellow is the same color. I am not sure if that is normal or maybe is have a couple areas that might have a hint of fade.

Just as a base, Here are the scoops with the epoxy patches.

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Started with the left two. the paint on these matched near perfect. Sorry, I guess I didn't get an after pic.
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Next did the shooter lane and right scoop.
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Had to use white to cover the bad areas and then yellow, and I guess I didn't get a shot of the yellow either. Im a slacker today.
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Paint was a pretty good match but Not perfect.
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I decided to tweak the paint just a hair and redo the upper scoop and also take the right yellow line up to behind the flipper.
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Overview of the playfield. I plan on doing the rings next. I will wait to put the black outlines around the yellow until after I clear again.
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#141 3 years ago

Do you clear after each color pass or is it safe to apply frisket/mask over a recently painted area?

#142 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Do you clear after each color pass or is it safe to apply frisket/mask over a recently painted area?

I try and plan to where I can do as many touch ups as possible without having to put a mask or frisket over fresh paint. That being said, normally frisket does not remove paint. The blue mask has a different type of adhesive and I put it down wet so it can be perfectly placed. The combination of this risks paint removal.

I don't like to paint two areas that are touching without clearing for two reasons. One, the edge that has been painted is not perfectly flat with the playfield so there is a risk of not sealing perfect with the frisket so you might get a bleed. Two, if you do make a mistake or it bleeds, you can't clean it off the new paint and you will have to take the paint off and paint the original area again. That is why I will wait to do the black lines on the yellow until after I clear again.

Keep in mind that I am not a professional and I have learned these techniques as I restore machines. There may be others that have a different opinion and do things completely different that I do. Lol

#143 3 years ago

Started working on the Red. I switched to Wicked colors by Createx. I have been using black for a while but decided to try the red. It was a better match and sprays right out of the bottle. Wicked seems to have more pigment than the standard which I hope will help my yellow issues. The only downside is that if you make a mistake it is much harder to take it off. That little tidbit of information will be important later. lol

Here are the first three rings.
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Really happy with the color.

I didn't have any other red ring masks ready so I decided to do the shooter lane. I was a little concerned about using the blue mask for this due to the rounded out part. The inside of the red is right at the edge of the flat area. I was 50/50 that it would work.
You can see the wear areas that need to be fixed.
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It worked for the first few coats of paint. Then the seal on the center part let loose in a couple areas and water blew out and ruined the paint. So I had to take the mask off and clean the paint off the area. Remember earlier when I said it was harder to take the paint off? With the standard Createx paint, you can pretty much wipe it off. I had to actually sand this paint off. I guess that's good since it adheres better but its not fun to clean off. I was not real happy so I didn't take any pictures of the mask.

After I got things cleaned up, I used Frisket and traced everything out.
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Really happy with the coverage. You may see that the area to the left is slightly different color. This is just because of the sanding. If you put Naphtha on it, the colors match and that is what it will look like when cleared. I will put the Halftones and black outlines on after clearing.

I also was able to get the Cabinet sanded. Just have a couple of small areas to wood fill and should be able to sand again tomorrow and it will be ready for primer.

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#144 3 years ago

How long waiting before taking off the mask after spraying colors.

Thanks for the info btw! Taking in as much as I can before starting on my Pinbot. I just sent it for a base CC.

#145 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

How long waiting before taking off the mask after spraying colors.
Thanks for the info btw! Taking in as much as I can before starting on my Pinbot. I just sent it for a base CC.

You use a heat source to cure Createx paint. You have to be more careful with the blue mask as the heat will constrict it and it will pull loose. I use a heat gun on the "cool down" setting and for some reason there is just a hint of heat. It's just enough to cure the paint but not mess up the mask.

I get the mask off as soon as I cure the paint. Frisket always comes off nice but the blue mask sticks more the longer it's on the playfield. If you wait too long to take it off, then it will leave adhesive on the playfield. The water helps with that as well. I can tell when I don't use enough water as the stuff really sticks.

#146 3 years ago

Got a lot done. Finished the red rings.

Center cluster
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Left Target Bank
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Right Target Bank
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Moved on to the light blue.

Helicopter.
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Pop Bumper area
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Then I moved to the smaller light blue inserts.
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I was having trouble with the center insert mask. As I stated earlier, the Mask can leave adhesive behind and that is very hard to remove without damaging the new paint. Also I have damaged the paint with my Xacto knife and had to repaint them. I decided to try something and it worked on all the inserts in this post so I will use the technique on all inserts. I will explain the process on the last blue insert.

First, I put a small piece of Frisket in the center of the insert.
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The Frisket is thin enough that it doesn't not prevent the mask from sticking and making a good seal. You can see the very slightly raised area on the mask
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Mask and paint.
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After removing the outer mask, You remove the inner mask. The Frisket not only keeps the blue mask from sticking in the center, it also provides a little "barrier" that protects the insert as I use my tweezers to grab the mask. The center mask came off easy every time, with no adhesive left, using this method.
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Finished.
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Once again, i am getting a lot of paint on the playfield. I may wait to do the green inserts until after I clear again. The only big area that I can work on is the lower computer screen area. I plan on working on it and adding the text to the inserts that I cut out and then I will probably clear again.

#147 3 years ago

I am following this thread rather closely. Thank you for being so thorough in your explanations. Something so minor as the frisket would have fooled me.

I own a JP and am looking to do some touch up stuff here and there. I'll be patient and wait until you work on it first. I feel like I could learn a lot here.

#148 3 years ago
Quoted from MEuRaH:

I am following this thread rather closely. Thank you for being so thorough in your explanations. Something so minor as the frisket would have fooled me.
I own a JP and am looking to do some touch up stuff here and there. I'll be patient and wait until you work on it first. I feel like I could learn a lot here.

I have learned a lot from several people on this forum and while I don't pretend to know everything, maybe something I do can help others. And in some cases show them what not to do. Lol

When you tackle your JP, let me know if I can answer any questions.

#149 3 years ago

So are you going to paint in those white lines on all the inserts eventually or what?

#150 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So are you going to paint in those white lines on all the inserts eventually or what?

Yes. All the white "tick" marks will be added after the next clear. Except the green insert tick marks will be added later since they won't be painted until the next clear.

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