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(Topic ID: 169818)

Jurassic Park Restoration


By Lonzo

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 626 posts
  • 82 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Lonzo
  • Topic is favorited by 100 Pinsiders

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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 13.
#451 2 years ago

Kind of aggravating today. I had to end up rewiring the scoop lighting mod that I installed. All the wires were breaking off at the attach points on the boards. I decided to replace all the wires with larger/stronger wires. Took several hours to get it all done but it is bullet proof now.

I also installed various "easy" parts on the playfield including the black gloss ball guides for the Raptor lane. The black post rubbers are just place holders until my colored ones get here.
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#452 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Kind of aggravating today. I had to end up rewiring the scoop lighting mod that I installed. All the wires were breaking off at the attach points on the boards. I decided to replace all the wires with larger/stronger wires. Took several hours to get it all done but it is bullet proof now.
I also installed various "easy" parts on the playfield including the black gloss ball guides for the Raptor lane. The black post rubbers are just place holders until my colored ones get here.

Sorry to slow your progress down Lonzo. The early versions used stranded copper wire which were fragile even after I tinned them. I solved that issue by going to tinned copper wire and a beefier gauge. Keep up the great work!

#453 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Sorry to slow your progress down Lonzo. The early versions used stranded copper wire which were fragile even after I tinned them. I solved that issue by going to tinned copper wire and a beefier gauge. Keep up the great work!

No worries at all. Things like that happen. You make great stuff and keep the ideas flowing.

#454 2 years ago

I love this thread. Just magical stuff. Way beyond my capabilities

If you ever decide to sell this pin let me know

#455 2 years ago

I got the new coil in for the shooter lane. Installed the diode and cleaned up the wiring and added the plug.

Next to the T-Rex mech.
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The yellow from the coil is supposed to have a shield on it to protect it so this will be added when I rebuild it.
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Got it all tore apart and cleaned on panel for comparison.
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Base parts are cleaned and ready for rebuild.
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Installed the motor for the Up/Down function. The switch wiring was really messed up on this so I fixed it and I put a clear plastic tube around the outside to keep the wires together and protect them. I also added the plug to the end.
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On the playfield side, the wiring was poorly soldered. There are two wires on the playfield side that will connect with a single wire on the mech side. To make the connections easier, I combined the two wires into a single that is then put in the connector. I don't have all the correct wires for a machine so I try and make the colors make sense. So for the white/red wire I used a red wire, for the white/brown wire I used brown and for the green/grey wire I used green. These wire were then put in the plug.
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Upon inspecting the hole in the lower jaw, it has been wore out pretty good. Instead of being round, it is more square.
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The link is also showing some wear. I had to hold it up against a piece of paper to show the details.
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I guess I am going to go ahead and order a new jaw and link. I figure If I am going this far I shouldn't cheap out now.

#456 2 years ago

The wires were about ready to break off the coil and because it wasn't wired with the original wires, I just decided to re-wire the whole thing.
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The original wires are black and white with a grey sheath around them. I think this adds protection for the bend up around the neck as I have seen a lot of pictures of wiring messed up there. You can see that mine was fixed there as well. I also think maybe the gray helps the wire "blend" in with the surroundings when the T-Rex bends over to pick up the ball. The black and white wires connect to red and green wires via a connector under the playfied. Since I was re-wiring, I figured I would change the wires to match the connector. I replaced the black and white wires with red and green. I then covered the entire upper wire area with back heat shrink tubing and I doubled it up where it makes the 180 degree turn.
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I added the wire tie mounts and made it look nice and tight. I also wire tied all the wires on the right side to keep it all out of the way.
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#457 2 years ago

Only thing left on the T-Rex is the jaw. I ordered the link and the Jaw today so it should be here in a few days. I decided to test fit the new T-Rex. I had to adjust one of the wire ties because the fit is much tighter and there is not as much room for wiring with the new T-Rex. Got it all fitted. For course he doesn't have his lower dentures in.
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#458 2 years ago

Looks nice Lonzo! Aren't you putting new coil wrappers?

#459 2 years ago

Hey lonzo any chance you could give a quick walk through of how to get to the Trex left right motor without pulling the entire assembly and putting it on the bench? Started doing mine, got about 45 minutes in and ended up giving up and putting it back together cause guests were arriving in an hour...

#460 2 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Looks nice Lonzo! Aren't you putting new coil wrappers?

No. I am not doing it on this one. I might create them for my next one.

#461 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Hey lonzo any chance you could give a quick walk through of how to get to the Trex left right motor without pulling the entire assembly and putting it on the bench? Started doing mine, got about 45 minutes in and ended up giving up and putting it back together cause guests were arriving in an hour...

The motor is easy. Just two screws and the motor will drop out. Now if your talking a about the gearbox then that is more difficult. You can only reach three of the four screws from the top without completely removing the dinosaur/coil mount mech. I personally would rather remove the entire thing to work on it then try and do it in the machine.

#462 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Now if your talking a about the gearbox then that is more difficult. You can only reach three of the four screws from the top without completely removing the dinosaur/coil mount mech.

Ok this makes me feel better

#463 2 years ago

Can you still buy that washer for the bottom flap of the chest plate? Yours looks a-nice.

#464 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Can you still buy that washer for the bottom flap of the chest plate? Yours looks a-nice.

I'm not sure. Mine was in pretty good shape so I cleaned it up.

#465 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I might create them for my next one.

You know Inkochnito have the wrappers ready to print. Just saying. It seems at this point it's all it's missing

#466 2 years ago

Cleaned up the steel ball guides. I wet sanded them down starting with 600 grit and working my way up to 5000 grit. Here is a comparison with one that has not been cleaned yet.
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Got them all done and installed. The shooter lane had more of a groove in it and I didn't get it totally out but it looks a lot better than before.
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#467 2 years ago

Plumonium, These pictures should make you proud.

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I also got the parts in for the T-Rex jaw so I hope to get to that tomorrow.

#468 2 years ago

Looking good! Almost complete!

#469 2 years ago

Ok, got back to the T-Rex Jaw. I ordered a new Jaw from Marco and when I looked at it, something just didn't seem right. I got the original jaw out and compared them and discovered that the new one is not the same as the original one. The front of the jaw is narrower than the original one. For people just replacing the jaw using the original T-Rex, this is probably not an issue but with the new T-Rex, this creates some problems. The lower silicone teeth are held in place by the metal jaw pressing up against the teeth and holding them tight against the outer shell. With the new jaw, there is a gap now that it is narrower so this didn't work. I decided to bent the sides out a little bit along with the front metal "teeth" and it seemed to hold the teeth firm. Only playing the game will tell if other glue etc. will have to be added. I didn't take any pictures of the jaw before I bent it but if you look at the lower flat part, you can see the difference.
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There is also an issue for some people with the ball getting stuck on the new screw that is used to mount the new T-Rex jaw. Some people build a "ramp" with an epoxy type substance but I decided to countersink the hole to make the screw fit flat with the lower surface.
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Here is the finished jaw with the decal installed. I went ahead and put the screw hole cut cutout part of the decal on the screw. I have no idea if it will be string enough to stay there.
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I will wait until I get the decal put on the T-Rex feeding area before I mount the T-Rex mech, just to give me more room to work.

#470 2 years ago

On to a couple odds and ends under the playfield. I got the upper scoop piece back from powder so I mounted it with the LED for the lighted scoop mod.
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I also got the ball trough finished and ready to mount. I have to make a modification to my rotisserie before I can mount this so I don't scratch the powder.
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I replaced all of the Z connectors under the playfield. I have had issues with old ones on other games and also one in the backbox of this game so I replaced them all.
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#471 2 years ago

I got the parts in to finish the flippers (Or so I thought)

I needed to replace the spring attach points on both main flippers.
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Got one all fixed up and adjusted.
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The other flipper is the one that had the cracked switch mount. I got the new one and when I took it out of the package.....Wrong part. What they sent was the spring mount that is used on the upper flipper. It was also not zinc coated like the original. Now here is the interesting thing. I accidentally ordered the spring mount instead of the switch mount on my last order. When I got it, I got a spring mount just like the one they sent me this time except it had the zinc coating on it like it is supposed to. To sum it up, I order the spring mount and I get a spring mount with zinc coating. When I order a switch mount, I get a spring mount with no zinc coating. This concerns me because maybe they don't have the correct part at all. I will find out when I call them Monday. Very frustrating because I am trying to get the underside done and move on to the topside.

You can see the sticker shows the correct picture. You can also see the crack in the old one.
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#472 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Plumonium, These pictures should make you proud.

Oh man! I'm sure am. I mean come on!

#473 2 years ago

No internet at the house for 2 days. Lots of work done. Hope to update soon.

#474 2 years ago

The internet is back on. WOOHOO

I installed the new jaw and jaw link. The tab on the jaw link was a little to big for the new jaw hole. With a little work I was able to get it to fit and it works great.
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I ran into an issue when working with the flippers. I noticed that every other picture I have seen of the bottom of the playfield showed green labeled flippers (090-5020-30). I looked at mine and I have different coils. I have 090-5032-00 on both my mail flippers. I read all the service bulletins and found no reference to a modification or update to the flipper coils (like F-14). I guess at some point someone replaced them with what they had around. I find it interesting that both coils match. Normally if someone replaces something then its just one and they don't match.
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The coils that are installed now are actually weaker than the originals so I will replace them with new ones.

#475 2 years ago

While I was reading the Service Bulletins I saw one about the switch that is in the bottom of the center scoop. I guess when the ball enters, it slams down on the floor of the scoop. The switch is mounted under that area and the vibration will eventually break the diode off the switch. I decided to look at mine and I bound something very interesting. The switch has the diode on it but there was also a "remote" diode that was mounted on the playfield. This remote diode is inline with this switch.
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The theory is that now that the diode is on the playfield, the vibration is eliminated and the diode will not break. Sounds great except for when the switch was replaced, they wired it like it was originally so there is a diode on it.
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The problem with this is that since the diode is on the switch, then when it breaks, the switch will still not work. The solution is to take the diode off and move the wire to the other side. Now the signal goes through the remote diode and then directly to the switch.
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#476 2 years ago

I decided to try the Comet Matrix post lights. I like the idea of the modular system. I got everything ready to go and ran into a problem. The lights are to big to fit in the post.
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I contacted them and they verified that they tried several posts in the office and had the same issue. They are working with the manufacturer and will have a fix but it will be 2-3 months before they have new ones out, That was not an option since TPF is in 2 months. They are taking care of me and the people at Comet are great. I found a way to make it work so I am keeping them. Here you can see the difference with another brand.
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What id did was take the post and carve out the base with a new X-Acto knife.
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Here is a comparison of and unaltered post on the left and one that was modified to fit the lights. the area that was cut out is not quite as clear as the original. It at the very base so it shouldn't change the lighting pattern.
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First thing that I added the lights to was the sling area. I placed the lights and carefully threaded the wires behind the switches so any movement of the switches will not touch the wires.
NOTE: This picture was taken before I placed the wires behind the switches
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I tried to place the light pads in positions that will not be visible to the player.
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Under the playfield I used a 3 way splitter to attach the lights together and then soldered them to a GI line. I attached the wires to a wire support and there is enough tension on the line to make sure the wires stay in the back part of the hole and not risk unplugging.
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#477 2 years ago

Got the trough installed.
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I cringe every time I install or remove the DMD so I lined the entire edge with felt to protect the cabinet when moving the panel.
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If things work out, I will have a tutorial coming up on how I reproduced these original decals and why I did it.
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#478 2 years ago

Since I have never done the post lights before, I wanted to power up the GI to see how they worked before I spent all the time to install the rest of them. I decided since I was going to hook the GI up I might as well hook it all up and teat everything to see where I am at. I also wanted to load up the Pinsound and check it out. After I got it all wired, I just stood and looked at it for a minute feeling the fear of flipping the switch. I didn't want to see any magic smoke.
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Here Goes................................
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That's a relief. After spending a couple of hours going through every little thing. All lights work. I only had two switches that were not registering and fixed them both. All coils and flashers work. Of course I couldn't test any lights or switches that are on ramps. backboard or on top the playfield. Overall I was very happy with everything.

I noticed one insert that had a little bleed around the edge. I guess I missed the edge or the paint was not thick enough in that area.
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I put some black paint along the edge and it helped but the light is traveling through the plastic and still showing a little. I came up with a fix. This is only tested with Comet LEDs. I have no idea if it will fit on any other brand of bulb. I have used light shield before to keep light from bleeding over to adjacent inserts. The lower playfield on CONGO has a problem with this. I have used small PVC in the past, but this will not work in this case because the light is in a light board. I just happened to have a coil sleeve sitting on my bench and I had an idea. I slid the coil sleeve over the LED and it fit perfect and snug. I took the sleeve and cut it several different lengths. Tested several and then decided I only needed to control the light on the one side so I cut the side out of it and mounted it.
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Here it is installed and the bleed is gone.
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Oh, and the Pinsound is freaking awesome. It combined with the new speakers and the updated sounds are amazing.

The scoop light mod is great as well.

#479 2 years ago

Next came the out lane plastics. These were yellow and the top one was not really clear. I had a really nice set on my SW and since it has not been fully restored yet, I decided to swap them out. Here you can see the difference.
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Both installed. Of course after I took this picture I realized I forgot to put the plastic protectors on.
Took them off and fixed them. The other sling post and lights are also installed. I leave plastics that don't have to be on the playfield off to protect them.
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The front play field supports use one of the screws from the out lanes. Now I can install them. I bought the upgraded ones that have a bigger base and two more screw holes.
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#480 2 years ago

very very nice job, that game's gonna look awesome.
love the nice touch and details.

#481 2 years ago

I enjoy checking up on the progress of this restoration. Simply inmaculate!!

#482 2 years ago

I got the flipper switch bracket in so I was able to finish that.

When I was installing the left sling posts yesterday I ran into a problem. Two of the post studs were a little short. With the plastic protectors installed the short posts will not grab the T nuts under the playfield. I only had one new one on hand. I had to think outside the box a little to get this to work but I have a good solution until I get some new ones in. It is perfectly fine the way I am doing it and doesn't "Have" to be changed. Here is a pic of the posts along with a 2 inch screw.
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I had hoped to use the 2 inch screw but the posts studs do not screw in flush with the playfied so the two inch screw was too short. I took a 3 inch screw and installed it from the top of the playfield. Next, I took my level out and leveled the playfield and then measured the top of the lower post stud and adjusted the new screw until the bottom of the head was level with the other post top.
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This left the screw extending out the bottom of the playfield.
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I took blue tapa and marked where it came out of the playfield.
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Then I screwed it all the way in and got a piece of metal to protect the wiring as I used my mini tool to cut it off.
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I shaped the end and ran it under a wire wheel to make it look like a post stud end.
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Then I took the screw out and installed it from under the playfield.
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I then checked the height again. It was just a smidgen tall so I added a washer underneath the playfield and then it was a perfect height.
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Install the post and thread a nut down on top of the post and tighten it down. Now the post is secure to the playfield just like a post stud. You can add your nut for the plastic and nobody will ever know (unless you read this thread)
I will probably replace it when I get some new posts but its there for now.
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#483 2 years ago

When I had the power on and testing the T-Rex, I was not happy with the movement left and right. It seemed like it was struggling and making a lot of noise. I took the motor off and test ran it and it seemed to run pretty smooth so I decided to take apart the gearbox and see how it looked after 25 years. I drilled out the rivets and took the cover off.
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The grease was not dry but it looked thick and dirty and the gear teeth looked dirty. I will post pictures of taking each gear off for those that want to see what it looks like.
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I got the parts all cleaned up and inspected the gears and they all looked good.
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All put back together with some white Lithium grease.
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T-Rex put back together with the serviced gearbox. I also did some ball eating tests with the new T-Rex and I did not bend the lower metal teeth out far enough. He was chomping right in the middle of the ball so I also adjusted those and mounted the jaw again.
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I hooked the motor up with my 5 volt power supply and this thing really moves now. Its also really smooth and doesn't seem to struggle anymore. I am actually surprised that it made that much difference since the grease was not actually dry but I guess the thickness of the grease was bogging it down.

#484 2 years ago

The other thing I noticed when I was doing the power on tests was that the solenoids that I am using to shut of the backbox during gameplay acted like there was a connection problem a couple of times. They would cycle on and off intermittently when they shouldn't. I thought maybe there was something wrong with the connector I made to piggyback off the solenoid plug. I didn't like the way the pins would move so I just decided to make a now connector. I wired a new connecter piggyback that is wire correct for the flippers to help when plugging the solenoids in. The old plug is to the left. It tuned out that the old plug was just fine but I didn't find that out until later and I am going to use the new plug anyway. The black wire coming off carries the ground signal for the flippers and sends it to the solenoids.
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I then checked the plug for the solenoids and I didn't like one of the wire connections so I took them out to inspect them. When I was messing with the wires, one of the white wires came straight out of the factory plug. THAT was the problem. The wire was barely in there and making intermittent contact.
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I was able push out the connector and it was obvious it wasn't crimped enough when it was made to hold the wire in. I was able to re insert the wire and crimp it down and then I added some solder to it solidify the connection.
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This made me wonder about the other yellow wire on the other side. A light tug and it came right out too. Did the same to fix it. I pushed the same wires out of the other connector to check them and they actually seemed like they were done right but I went ahead and added the solder to them. I guess the guy building the first connector was just having a bad day. I tugged pretty hard on the big wires and they seemed tight and I could actually see the connection inside and they looked fine. Installed the solenoids and new piggy back in the backbox.
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I think I am finished fixing/improving things I found during testing and ready to move forward again.

#486 2 years ago

Cleaned up the Gun parts and put it together. The gun is powder coated with a texture black.
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I tried to put the gun on the cabinet and the top right bolt would not go through. I pulled it back out and looked at the hole and something I remembered when I was taking the machine apart. Here is a photo of the cabinet and you can see that the top right bolt is missing. Man that cab is ugly.
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You can see that someone had put a big nail in the side of the cabinet that goes through that hole so that is why the bolt was missing. Sorry, the close ups are a little blurry.
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I took my mini tool and carefully grinded it down. I left the end of the nail in place since it is not in the way.
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Got it mounted with all the bolts now.
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#487 2 years ago

I got the T-Rex mounted.
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I did some testing with the jaw and made a few teeth adjustments and now it picks up the ball with very little resistance in the jaw coil.
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The "up" switch activated a little early so that was also adjusted so the T-Rex is fully upright when the motor stops.

#488 2 years ago

I was installing all the posts that go under the big raptor plastic and I was missing one gray posts and one was to too short. As I was looking at the playfield I had an idea. Many people complain that the back of the playfield is dark. There are also no GI lights under the left half of the big raptor plastic. I decided to put post lights on the two back posts that I hope will brighten the back of the playfield and light up that plastic a little better.
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As I was test fitting the plastic I noticed that they didn't drill one of the mounting holes in the new plastic.
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With the short gray post I mentioned above, the old plastic was resting on the raptor coil and had a lot of damage.
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When plastic protectors are not used, I normally place a washer on the post before I put the plastic on, this protects the hole and more evenly distributes the force on the plastic to minimize damage. When I tested the new plastic, it was not touching the coil but it was a very thin margin. I decided to put two washers on each post to get a little more clearance.
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Here you can see how much clearance I have now.
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#489 2 years ago

Next I will address the Amber. This is what I had in my machine.
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Looks just like it doesn't it. Maybe it was a Mod.

When I got this machine a few years ago, I was able to find a new on from a place in Australia.
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everything was pretty dingy.
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Took it all apart to clean it up.
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Ran in to another interesting wiring issue. Kind of like the switch modification in the scoop, I am not sure if this has been modified or if the lights are from another machine. The sockets are all cleaned up but you can see that there is a second wire on all four tabs. It looks like they were daisy chained at some point. This made look at the wiring diagrams to see if I was missing something but I believe I have everything.
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I looked at the bottom of the playfield. The wires leading to the upper playfield lights run through a distribution block like the pop bumpers. This makes me wonder if there are versions of the game that have a daisy chain and no distribution block under the playfield and ones that have this. Or this could be just something someone did to my machine. Curious if you guys have different wiring. This block is normally screwed to the playfield but I took it off to get a better picture.
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The new amber block just about gave me a heart attack. I think the block is made out of a harder material than the original. When I tried to put a screw into the pre-drilled holes, I could hear it cracking. I immediately stopped. I couldn't use a smaller screw because it wouldn't bite. I drilled the hole out a little more and then held my breath and tried the screw again and it worked. If this would not have worked, I would have had to just drill a hole all the way through and deal with it so I'm glad it worked.
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One thing I hat about the Amber block is the bracket that holds it sis wider than the amber. I think this just looks sloppy.
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I marked the edges so I could cut the vertical part off.
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I got sockets riveted back on to the bracket and connectors added.
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I put the pins in a configuration where they can not be plugged into the wrong one.
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Finished and ready to mount. You will still be able to see the flat part of the mounting bracket but at least you wont see the ugly vertical part of the bracket.
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#490 2 years ago

The upper right corner plastic had a clear flasher dome on it. All of the pictures I have seen show this flasher to be red so I will replace it with red.
Dscf6368 (resized).jpg

It a matter of opinion and some of you may not agree but I do not care for the shape of the JP flasher domes. I am going to replace the ones on the playfield with the other kind. I just think the JP red is a tad washed out compared to the rich color of the Bally/Williams style. I can always change them back if I get it together and don't like it but I doubt that will happen.

Ready to go.
Dscf6369 (resized).jpg

A few more posts installed. Any where you see a screw in a side rail or a nut on a post it means that the plastic is ready to install. I will start adding them when I need to install the rest of the playfield items. No use having them sitting there waiting to be scratched when its so easy to install them later.
Dscf6370 (resized).jpg

#491 2 years ago

Man. Your work is awesome and your eye for detail incredible. Makes my saving another JP feel like a quick and dirty job

Keep it going !

#492 2 years ago

Very nice progress.

I don't get to spend much time with my pinballs those days but lurking your thread makes me happy.

#493 2 years ago

So much to be proud of. Looks awesome, well done. Sorry about your storage delay, stinks when real life issues get in the way!

Since you're going all out and have some down time, you should consider putting one of Herg's LED OCD boards in there, too.

#494 2 years ago

One of the left plastics that was falling apart.
Dscf6373 (resized).jpg

I picked it up to take the dome off and it broke off in my hand. These plastics were trashed.
Dscf6374 (resized).jpg

I will store the light stands as I will not be using them.
Dscf6375 (resized).jpg

New plastic ready to go with the new flasher dome.
Dscf6383 (resized).jpg

#495 2 years ago

Couple more post lights installed.
Dscf6393 (resized).jpg

This should be the last post light unless I add a third to the back row behind the T-Rex. I will see how it all looks when finished. All of the post lights have had an easy area to run the wires through the bottom of the playfield. This one has no "hole" to run the wire through.
Dscf6386 (resized).jpg

They make a light with an adapter wire on it.
DSCF6385 (resized).JPG

I had originally planned on using these but I changed my mind since I didn't know how different the GI would look in the areas that they were used. I don't want to use just one so I had to come up with a better solution. What I decided to do was to make a notch in the back of the GI socket hole that would not be visible so even in the post lights were removed, this notch would never be seen.
Dscf6389 (resized).jpg

The post lights only have a 3 inch lead on them which was not long enough for this situation. The plastic plug would be half way down the hole. I removed the original wire and cut a 12 inch extension and soldered it to the light. I then added so shrink tubing to add some protection where it passes through the hole next to the socket.
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Here is it installed.
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#496 2 years ago

Love your work. Keep it up and thanks for posting. One thing about the guys on pinside is the diversity on how people do things. Always learning here.

#497 2 years ago

I can't wait to play this at TPF!!! It looks amazing!

#498 2 years ago

Jeff Goldblum would be proud!

#499 2 years ago

OCD strikes again.
I just wasn't happy with the way the wires on the post lights looked. I don't like the red wire and the fact that the wires are not together.
Dscf6398 (resized).jpg

I thought about using white all over like the one above but when white does in a dark hole it actually sticks out more than I thing the wires do so I decided to go with black. The problem is that the red wire is still visible just a little bit where the solder point is. I took a small piece of shrink tubing and put it over the end of the red wire.
Dscf6402 (resized).jpg

I then soldered the wires back on the light board and then put black heat shrink tubing to tie the wires together.
Dscf6403 (resized).jpg

Now the wires are easier to control through the holes.
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I think it looks much better now.
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You always run into stuff like this the first time you use a product. You eventually find out that way that works best.

All of the rest of the post lights were modified.

#500 2 years ago

The last batch of parts is out of the vibrator.
Dscf6406 (resized).jpg

Installed the rest of the hardware. As I got to the area just above the shooter lane, I had an idea. Most of the lighted star posts are on the left side of the playfield except for the slings and a couple by the two targets next to the shooter lane. The post with the rubber is normally located in this position.
Dscf6408 (resized).jpg

I decided to replace it with a star post to help even out the post lights. I had to cut a little notch out of it to clear the shooter lane guide mount.
Dscf6409 (resized).jpg

I trimmed the light board to match the post.
Dscf6411 (resized).jpg

Installed.
Dscf6413 (resized).jpg

Ok, anyone see a problem?????
The plastic post causes the rubber to angle out slightly so I think it will interfere with the ball and change gameplay. So I took it all out and installed the original post as designed. I decided to talk about it just because not every idea works out but you gotta try.

The respective plastic modified with the updated flasher and ready to install.

Dscf6414 (resized).jpg

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