Jurassic Park Restoration


By Lonzo

1 year ago


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There are 414 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 9.
#1 1 year ago

Well, its finally time to start my next restoration. Its been a little while since I finished Fire and I am ready for another one. Moved into a house that we had built a couple of weeks before TPF this year and have been busy with new house stuff for a while and my Dad has been in the Hospital for 3 months and my wife had knee surgery. It was supposed to be a one week recovery but things didn't go as planned and she was non weight bearing for 6 weeks. I also traded some pinball work for some electrical work on my pool. I did a restoration of a Blackout for my electrician and delivered it to him a couple of weeks ago. I am also finishing up a Galaga Hyperspin. So I've have had a pretty full plate but looking forward to this project. I got this pin probably 4 years ago and got it working mechanically and then put in in the "que".

My goal for this project is to have it ready by TPF but that will all depend on my schedule etc. The good news is that I already have all the cabinet artwork done.

For those of you that followed my BTTF and Fire restorations, Welcome back I hope you enjoy this one.

I hope maybe you can use some information to help you out sometime. And if you see something that I can do better or you have done differently and it worked for you, let me know, I am always wanting to learn new techniques.

I also have the new T-Rex, Topper and Gate mod so this thing should be sweet. I also have a few custom ideas.

Here we go.

The cabinet will be a full restore sanded down to bare wood and rebuilt.
cab front (resized).jpgcab right (resized).jpgcab left (resized).jpgbackbox right (resized).jpgbackboc left (resized).jpg

Planking and flaking paint.
cab plank (resized).jpg

A little water damage on the backbox.
backbox back (resized).jpg

The playfield is not to bad. At least its not like Fire
playfield (resized).jpg

A little shooter lane wear
playfield shooter wear 1 (resized).jpgplayfield shooter wear 2 (resized).jpg

This ramp bracket was fabricated and not correct.
playfield ramp bracket (resized).jpg

Scoop wear. I have Cliffys but the damage extends outside the bracket so it will have to be fixed and them air brushed. You can also see the fade between the pop bumpers. It should be more of an orange but the half tones are faded. After looking at several machines on the internet it seems that this is pretty common but I will try and fix that. The flash washed it out a bit but the interesting thing is the area that was under the mylar faded more than the unprotected area.
playfield left scoop (resized).jpgplayfield upper scoop wear (resized).jpg

Helicopter insert damaged. Several inserts are sunk a little bit. This was the only one that showed real damage.
playfield insert damage (resized).jpg

More fade. The yellow "lane" extending from Mr Hammond through the T-Rex is supposed to be more orange.
playfield fade (resized).jpg

Broken lane guide plastic. Nice tape job.
playfield broken lane plastic (resized).jpg

This one creaked me up. The Amber was missing and they just put a piece of tinted plexi in its place. I have a replacement Amber.
playfield amber (resized).jpg

I am guessing that this thing was dropped in the cab a few times. Both rear corner plastics were broken on the corner and the right side actually damaged the wood.
broken corner 2 (resized).jpgbroken corner 1 (resized).jpg

If anyone that makes plastics is reading this thread. For the sake of humanity, please make JP plastics.

#2 1 year ago

I got the playfield out. Man, the DE wire harnesses are so much fun. lol
wire harness.jpg

Lower cab doesn't look too bad just dirty. I will take everything out and clean it up real good and do some woodwork and paint.
lower cab dirty.jpg

Got all the boards out. It is so clean, you cant even tell where they were.
Kinda interesting. On the power supply, you can see some of the traces.
no boards.jpg

Got the backbox off. One of the brackets was bent so will probably just get some new ones.
head removed.jpg

#3 1 year ago

Looks like you finally started it.

#4 1 year ago

Nice. I'm in!

#5 1 year ago

Very cool. Looking forward to seeing progress!

#6 1 year ago

Folowing!

#8 1 year ago

Man the front of that cab is ugly!

#9 1 year ago

Love your threads, following. Yay dinosaurs.

#10 1 year ago

Got some more work done. Not going to bore you with many pictures of the tear down except to show condition or challenges. Got the upper and lower cabinets completely empty except for the grounding straps.

empty lower (resized).jpg
empty upper (resized).jpg

There is a little more damage on the front. The upper right and left corners that would normally be covered by the lockdown bar have some delaminating.
front damage 1 (resized).jpgfront damage 2 (resized).jpg

The hole in the wood to access the backbox lock has been abused. I mean how hard is it to stick a wrench in a hole.
I already have the instruction decal ready from when I did my BTTF.
back damage (resized).jpg

nothing major on the playfield yet. I will have to look at some pictures but I think I have an extra post that was put in because of a broken plastic. One of the pop bumper mounts had a corner broke off.
pop (resized).jpg

I have some pretty good warping of a few plastics. These were the worst two.
plastic 1 (resized).jpg
plastic 2 (resized).jpg

So here is where I am at right now. Another couple of hours and I should have everything off the playfield.
playfield (resized).jpg

I think my biggest concern with the restoration is the plastics. I am not worried about that cabinet. I am pretty sure I can make it look new. The playfield should turn out really nice not to mention the mods. I am just worried that the plastics will not live up to the rest of the restoration. I cant believe that these are not made yet.

I know JP plastics are unobtanium but if anyone has some and wants to help out with a restoration, please let me know. Even if you only have one plastic, I am interested.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

its repro but dont know how good
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/7548/plastic-set-for-jurassic-park#description

Thanks for the information. I am checking on shipping to the US etc. I haven't seen this site before.

#13 1 year ago

I'll be following this. That dino is ugly. Looking forward to seeing pics/updates of the restoration process.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Thanks for the information. I am checking on shipping to the US etc. I haven't seen this site before.


our little secret!

#15 1 year ago

I forgot to upload this picture yesterday. These are the decals I will either clean up or reproduce for the cabinet.
decals (resized).jpg

I finished up stripping the playfield tonight.

Another warped plastic.
plastic (resized).jpg

Here is the metal piece that is right in front of the T-Rex. I turned it over and it doesn't look "original".
It appears to have the "scotch tape hand cut plastic spacer mod"
metal plate (resized).jpgmetal mod (resized).jpg

Here is the playfield ready for a good cleaning.
playfield (resized).jpg

#16 1 year ago

If you reproduce the backbox locking decals, can you make an extra set? Mine were in pretty rough shape (I removed them).

The remainder of my decals and cards are fine, except for "Install 6 Balls" strcker, which I think I can handle.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from markp99:

If you reproduce the backbox locking decals, can you make an extra set? Mine were in pretty rough shape (I removed them).
The remainder of my decals and cards are fine, except for "Install 6 Balls" strcker, which I think I can handle.

Yeah. Just remind me when I get to that point. Lol

#18 1 year ago

Hah! I knew this looked familiar. I found an old bookmark to Marcos - they have these, $1.99. I guess I'll start building an order to make the shipping worthwhile.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-5000-QL

detail (resized).jpg

#19 1 year ago

I'm looking to get my JP restored soon(ish).

One thing that occurred to me ... is it possible to replace the series or soldered mechanical switches in the ball trough with one of the WMS 6 ball optos? Surely this would make it much more reliable.

Can it be hacked like this? It surprises me somewhat that no-one has designed and made up an off the shelf board to do just this ... JP and other DE games seem to have a bunch of issues with their trough switches, often ... and it's a total mess down there, compared with a couple of opto boards.

#20 1 year ago

Well. We are gonna find out how good those plastics are because I ordered a set.

#21 1 year ago

Just curious - In the backbox picture, upper left quadrant, there are several black spots that look like arcing to me. What's your take on it?

On my machine, I saw the same thing. To me, it looks like the heat sink on some of the transistors arc over to the back plane, so I insulated that area behind that board, and since then, I have not blown any of those transistors.

You have quite a project on your hands - I understand the excitement of doing stuff like this. Remember that we do this for fun!

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Just curious - In the backbox picture, upper left quadrant, there are several black spots that look like arcing to me. What's your take on it?
On my machine, I saw the same thing. To me, it looks like the heat sink on some of the transistors arc over to the back plane, so I insulated that area behind that board, and since then, I have not blown any of those transistors.
You have quite a project on your hands - I understand the excitement of doing stuff like this. Remember that we do this for fun!

I cleaned off the area that you were referring to. It cleaned very easily with no marks on the metal. I am no expert on this but I wonder if the different areas of different temperatures cause the dirt to accumulate at different rates. Someone else might be able to give a better opinion. I still may put a couple of washers between the board and the back to give it a little more room.
back (resized).jpg

It is fun. I really enjoy doing this. Of course there are times where you want to pull your hair out.

#23 1 year ago

i am sertain its gonna be a beauty when done!
keep thema posts and pics comming!

hope th plastics are good

i only need one after scoop by popbumper,
hope someday someone sells them separate!

btw there was a post in a topic with the decal sticker scans
so you can print them

i will look if i can find

#25 1 year ago

Got a little work done in the last couple days. I cut some ply and reinforced the front where it was delaminating. I glued it all back together.
cab (resized).jpg

I also came across the decals I bought a couple of years ago.
decals (resized).jpg

I am always looking to try new things and I had an idea. I do not take everything off the bottom of the playfield when I restore a game. The only time I plan on that is when I replace my Waterworld playfield with a NOS playfield. I have no desire to do this on a regular basis. Normally I tape up all the holes from the underside so when I clear, nothing gets on anything. This works but makes it harder to keep the opening clean when you are sanding and wet sanding. There is normally a lot of cleaning before you clear again so you don't "lock in" any residue with the next layer of clear. Also at the end when you take the tape up there is usually build up where the tape meets the wood that has to be filed off and sanded etc. I decided to try something new on this one. If it works, it should save time later and make things a lot easier. If it doesn't, then crap.

I bought several sizes of PVC and cut them to 5 inch lengths.
pipe (resized).jpg

I carefully tied up all the mechanisms and switches on the underside of the playfield so they would not be close to a hole if possible. I then started mounting the PVC to the playfield. This should create a channel that clear spray can sink and pass all the stuff under the playfield and fall to the floor. I used 3 inch PVC for the pop bumpers and secured them with home made brackets and existing screw holes.
mount (resized).jpg

The rest of the pipes were mounted using a little dab of silicone on a couple spots and left overnight. The next day I tested one to see how "stuck" it was and it was pretty firm and should not come off during the restoration. I went ahead and broke one loose just to make sure the silicone would have no adverse affects on the playfield and will clean off easy and it did. So I reattached it an left it to dry overnight again.

Then I needed to close off the big T-Rex hole. I got an 8 inch section of vent pipe and cut it up into 5 inch sections with a little extra to bend over for tabs. I then bent it into shape and attached it to the playfield.
pipe 3 (resized).jpg

I then used the metal to "wall off' a few areas. One I made a Z bend piece next to the pop bumpers that isolated several holes and then another to shield from the trough. The cut out on the outer pop bumper pipe is to allow for mounting to my work box.
pipe 1 (resized).jpgpipe 2 (resized).jpg

Here are a few shots from the top.
top 2 (resized).jpgtop 1 (resized).jpgtop 3 (resized).jpg

The rest of the holes don't have anything near them. Just as an extra layer of protection, I put bags around several switches etc. I also put the entire wiring harness in a trashbag so any clear residue cannot get on any plugs.

The playfield is now ready for some real work. I like this part of the restoration because the teardown is done and now you actually feel like you are making progress toward the final product.

playfield (resized).jpg

#26 1 year ago

Nice Ill be watching this!!!

#27 1 year ago

This is like a slow strip tease.

#28 1 year ago

Brown Chicken Brown Cow...

Got the playfield cleaned off today and have a lot better idea where I stand. Overall, not bad. A few wear spots and of course the scoops. Since I have a replacement decal for the grass around the T-Rex Eat hole, or whatever you call it , I went ahead and took it off since mine had some slight wear and a couple of bubbles.
lower (resized).jpg
mid (resized).jpg
top (resized).jpg

There is a little wear area above the raptor head on the kickback. I will probably not fix this since it is actually under the bracket for the kickback. I wonder if they had a change during the process because the upper raptor head it mostly under the coil.
yellow (resized).jpg

Ugly scoop. I will have to repaint the entire yellow outline once I rebuild the hole.
scoop (resized).jpg

I have an interesting area to the left of the big T-Rex in the center section. It looks like a printing error as it almost looks like it has halftones around the edge. It does not appear to be normal wear. I will try and match the blue and paint the entire area that it is in and hope that the area that isolates it from the rest of the blue will allow it to blend and not be noticed.
error (resized).jpg

Here you can see the fade on the yellow area around Mr. Hammonds legs. You can see where the upper flipper was. The area is supposed to be an orange color and it actually fluoresces under a black light. That might be why it is so common for this area to be faded yellow. The area is supposed to be orange with graduated red halftones.
fade (resized).jpg

Got the entire playfield scanned. Then I scanned some of the problem areas with a higher resolution just in case I need it.
scan (resized).jpg

Now that its all scanned, I tried one of the Mylar patches to see how easy it came off. So far I have had pretty good luck with Mylar on DE games. I use freeze spray and then removed the glue. Here is what it looked like before I started.
mylar (resized).jpg

Here it is with the Mylar removed leaving the glue. Looks about the same.
glue (resized).jpg

The glue came off pretty easy.
clean (resized).jpg

Here is my shop dog helping. Any I use the word "helping" very loosely.
dog (resized).jpg

I hope to get the rest of the Mylar off tomorrow.

#29 1 year ago

Got all the Mylar off. It was the easiest Mylar that I have ever removed. The playfield looks so much better without the Mylar.
mylar (resized).JPG

There is one area around the VUK hole where the wire ramp connects to the playfield that has some wood damage. You can see that the wood is chipped.
damage (resized).JPG

Glued and clamped.
glue (resized).JPG

#30 1 year ago

I thought I would break out the black light out and show you how the orange/yellow fluoresces.
Dscf5205 (resized).jpgDscf5206 (resized).jpgDscf5207 (resized).jpg

I have not read anything about why they used this paint. Its kinda interesting because normally white fluoresces but the white paint on the playfield does not.

I got the playfield lightly sanded and ready for the first layer of clear. Probably be a week or so before I can do that so when I have time I will start working on the cabinet. I documented all the locations of the cab graphics so it is ready to be sanded.

#31 1 year ago

That's crazy, I never heard of the fluorescing paint on JP. Wonder if anyone knows the backstory on that... Probably just did it to give it some pop?

What do you plan to do to fix the faded half-tones? Keeping the fluroescent paint?

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

That's crazy, I never heard of the fluorescing paint on JP. Wonder if anyone knows the backstory on that... Probably just did it to give it some pop?
What do you plan to do to fix the faded half-tones? Keeping the fluroescent paint?

I have a set of fluorescent paint and my plan is to keep with the original and use it. The orange that I have is probably a little dark so will have to try and mix which I have not done with fluorescents. I will water slide the half tones on once it is painted.

I think it is a cool throwback to the 70's where a lot of games use fluorescent paint. I have several.

I have some ideas how I can maybe incorporate it into the game.

#33 1 year ago

Very cool. Can't wait to see it when it's done.

#34 1 year ago

Great progress so far! I may have to buy a black light now just for this game! No idea it had the special paint in it. Did you get the amber off another game or do you know of someone that's reproducing them? I only ask as I'm looking to replace mine as it's cracked horizontally right in the middle.

#35 1 year ago

Just a tip about that amber, don't use alcohol to clean it. It will melt it.

I had something gummy stuck to mine, so I wiped it with rubbing alcohol. I got the gummy stuff off, but looked like it was smeared a little bit. So I wiped some more, and still couldn't get it polished back up. Then I looked at my rag, and it was orange.

Took me a while with some different fine grit sand paper, but finally got it back. Still a bit hazy and not as clear as it once was, but it's passable.

#36 1 year ago

Nothing really to show but I have been doing a lot of work on the computer. I have all the graphics done that will allow me to cut vinyl and masks for painting. I hope to get the first layer of clear on the playfield early next week so I can start working on the playfield.

#37 1 year ago

Pm me with you email if you want all of the decal scans.

#38 1 year ago

While you have everything apart, could you possibly scan the speaker grills? Mine should be arriving next week, and I guess the speaker grills have been replaced as they are plain back. My OCD requires the dino logos, and I think if I can make a stencil, my friend could air brush it. I can't seem to find anybody even parting out the grills.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Nothing really to show but I have been doing a lot of work on the computer. I have all the graphics done that will allow me to cut vinyl and masks for painting. I hope to get the first layer of clear on the playfield early next week so I can start working on the playfield.

Curious what you use for doing the vector art. I've used Illustrator for a few small projects, but had a tough time getting proficient with it enough to do anything complex.

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

While you have everything apart, could you possibly scan the speaker grills? Mine should be arriving next week, and I guess the speaker grills have been replaced as they are plain back. My OCD requires the dino logos, and I think if I can make a stencil, my friend could air brush it. I can't seem to find anybody even parting out the grills.

I don't have the speaker grills apart yet but I will take a look and get you a scan. PM me your email address.

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Curious what you use for doing the vector art. I've used Illustrator for a few small projects, but had a tough time getting proficient with it enough to do anything complex.

I have been using Paint Shop Pro for 15+ years but I am transitioning to Photoshop. I know it is a lot more powerful than PSP but It's not as user friendly. I am slowly learning.
I also use CorelDRAW to prepare some images to be cut with my vinyl cutter.

#42 1 year ago

I just got a JP myself last week. I'm going to do a little work on mine but no where near the restoration you're doing. This is awesome. I'm in. +Bump for JP plastics call out.

#43 1 year ago

Just an update on the plastics I ordered. I got mine in and they look great except for one problem. Two are missing. The ring that goes around the TRex and the upper left corner plastic. I am working with them right now. It appears they did not know the set was not complete. They were apologetic and asked if I could send scans. I sent them scans of the two plastics and I hope they add them to the set and send them to me when they finish cleaning up the art.

My TRex ring is in pretty good shape. I used a heat gut to flatten it and it looks almost new. I really need that corner piece though, so I hope they come through for me. Those were not cheap when you add the shipping.

#44 1 year ago

Interested is selling the old plastics?
I would like to replace the large raptor plastic and middle scoop plastic.

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from bballfan:

Interested is selling the old plastics?
I would like to replace the large raptor plastic and middle scoop plastic.

The middle scoop plastic was in pieces so it is not usable. I have a buddy that is restoring a JP so he has first dibs but I might post what is available when I am done.

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I think my biggest concern with the restoration is the plastics.

I'm right there with you buddy. My "When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth" banner is very warped. I'm worried about trying to heat it up to fix it. If you do try something let us all know what you tried. I'm going to be right behind you trying that with mine.

And if you part out your old plastics... I might be interested in this piece.

#47 1 year ago

Very nice. I saw both your fire and bttf at TPF last year and they were the nicest examples of those games I've seen. Looking forward to seeing this one.

#48 1 year ago

any updates?

#49 1 year ago

Sorry for the lack of updates. Long story short, they had to replace the entire wood floor in our new house and also fix some Sheetrock. The shop became a storage area so haven't been able to work. If the stars line up I hope to get the first layer of clear on next week.

#50 1 year ago

bummer good luck!
hop to see more soon

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