(Topic ID: 137222)

Jurassic Park reset, +12v issue

By Renouart

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Renouart
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Hi all,
My JP has been resetting, at first intermittently, and now all the time and can't play a full game. Checked the voltages on the power supply, and saw that the +5v and -12v are fine. But the +12v read +9.6v, so that seems significantly low. Is that the likely cause of the resets? In looking around, I found a hack to deal with a burnt CN1 connector in the top right. The wire from that pin was cut, and I see a wire coming off the back of the board and connected to what is likely the cut wire from CN1.

So, is the low +12v the likely cause of the resets? Could the hack be causing the low +12v? Is the burnt CN1 a sign that something else is wrong? And how do I get the resets to go away?

Here are pix of the connector and hack to show what I am talking about -

Thanks for any suggestions!

female_CN1.jpgfemale_CN1.jpg

hack.jpghack.jpg

male_CN1.jpgmale_CN1.jpg

#2 8 years ago

I think you're headed in the right direction. That connector looks nasty. So there is a wire coming from behind the power supply board that comes around to the front? Which pin is the wire tied to? I'll take a look at my JP schematics and see what I can dig up. In the meantime I just bought this for my BTTF machine.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=CN1SET
The product description mentions the reset issue.

This guide helped me tremendously in fixing my JP.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#trans

#3 8 years ago

Hello,

I have similar issue but my CN1 it's ok, my power supply gives doesn't give 12v only 8-9v like yours. Did you notice before the reset music stops . I had sometimes reset but more often sound issues because of the low voltage I suppose.
Hope we can resolve this.

#4 8 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

So, is the low +12v the likely cause of the resets? Could the hack be causing the low +12v?

Yes, that is your current issue. 12 volts turns into 5 volts after the regulator.
Fix the wiring and change the connector on the board and go from there.

I suggest also changing out C2 100 uf 16volt cap (for the 5 volts) as this one tends to leak and burn the trace under the capacitor. It is also known to cause resets as well as the capacitor starts to fail.

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from ezer:

I have similar issue but my CN1 it's ok, my power supply gives doesn't give 12v only 8-9v like yours. Did you notice before the reset music stops . I had sometimes reset but more often sound issues because of the low voltage I suppose.

Sounds like either your F1 or F2 fuse or fuse holders could be failing. Push on the fuses to see if the fuse holders spread out with pushing on them. If the fuse holders are ok, are the fuses measuring less than .5 ohms? If so, then your bridge rectifier would be the part I would suspect next.

#6 8 years ago

TZCLOCKed - thanks for the link to the CN1 kit - exactly what I needed. I had the Date East link you suggested, but still could not figure out whether the CN1 was the likely culprit.

EZER - my sound is fine now. Before the reset issue, the sound would not come on for a bit after turning on the JP, and also adjusting the sound pot caused some static. I replaced the pot and the sound is fine now, but the resets remained.

PinballManiac40 - thanks for the confirmation, and the suggestion to replace the C2 cap.

I'll report back after I get CN1 fixed.

1 month later
#7 8 years ago

I finally got to replacing CN1 with the kit from Action Pinball. This was absolutely the problem. I no longer get resets and on the power supply, the +12v test point reads 11.26v. I have not changed C2 as was suggested, but will put this on the list of things to do.

As a note to anyone else in this situation, I am not experienced in soldering on the boards. I did get a junk board to practice on, and to remove the CN1 from the the board, I used a solder sucker at each connector to remove most of the solder, then used Chipquick to keep the remaining solder liquid while I gently removed each connector individually by twisting. I was not able to remove the entire piece at once, so this worked for me, and I did not rip out any through holes.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. It is great to have the game back up again.

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