(Topic ID: 146102)

Jurassic Park / Data East power board

By ddebuss

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Crash
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

I'm working to fix a reset issue on a Data East Jurassic Park. I need to replace a burnt power header, going to also replace Bridge Rectifier, and do a cap job. Here's my question.

C2 is supposed to be 100uf 25v. I don't see anything listed anywhere that gives a different value. All references seem to be consistent.
On my game
C2 is 47uf 100v

When I recap it which should I use. The game has been "fairly" reliable so I have a hard time believing this is a problem. I know the burnt connector is a problem and my reset points squarly to the Bridge Rectifier...

It's a 520-5047-02 rev A.

Thanks for your advice pinside!
Dan

#2 8 years ago

C2 takes a beating in Data East machines. It sometimes leaks electrolyte onto the board, eating through a trace causing 5V regulation issues. When you replace it, carefully inspect the traces in that area for corrosion. I would sand the green mask away in that area to get a better look at the traces.

It is 100uf on my machine. I used a 100V in there to hopefully help it last a bit longer but you can easily get away with a 25v device.

#3 8 years ago

That capacitor will cause ripple currents to develop and thus, reset issues. It should be replaced with the factory spec 100uf cap. Why are you suspecting the rectifier? Usually those will not go bad.

#4 8 years ago

Thanks guys for the help. 100uf 100v it is. I'm taking the shotgun approach to repairing. Schwaggs knows the history with this game so he will get it. It was a total disaster when I got it and it's in great collector shape except little issues with T-Rex and now resets. This game is going away soon and I want the new owner to have a good experience. The rectifier when it goes bad also leads to resets so it's getting replaced too. There are other things about this board that leaves me in doubt so better order parts once, hit it once, and be good for a long time.

#5 8 years ago

Before replacing the bridge rectifier, have you taken voltage at TP3 on the power board? CN1 12pin power connector burns up on these games and you can see if its affecting the test point 3 (TP3) which should measure +12v. Then measure the 5v test point on the MPU (at the top). If its lower than 5v you will get resets. I had this problem on my TOMMY recently. Just a thought while you are checking things.

#6 8 years ago

When I first dug into it I saw that CN1 was burned up. I'm undecided what order I will do everything in and test in-between since the resets are happening more and more often but not reliably. A replacement for CN1 is already on order. I will be replacing all caps, the bridge rectifier, the connector, the maybe the bottlecap, and anything else that is suspect. I don't see the downside of the approach. Does anyone else see a downside of a complete rebuild other than an hour and a couple $ in parts.

Thanks again everyone for the feedback.

#7 8 years ago

Installing a cap kit would be great. The only downside is if you are not sure how to do board work, but you seem to be on the right track.

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