Be gentle, this is my first Pin. My first post. My balls were getting stuck in the trough and not hitting the microswitches properly. They seemed too tight. So I added a washer under the bolts for the solenoid and the metal shield the holds the balls in place.

Put the game back together. And now the balls don’t seem to catch anymore. But when a game is started, the ball ejects to the plunger. Usually you get the raptor screen and can wait to shoot it (and the ball). Now as soon as the ball hits the plunger the game cycles through modes, the solenoid in the bunker just keeps going off and the music cuts out.

What the hell happened?

#jurassic-park

I checked all the microswitches in the trough none of the wires or diodes are touching each other. I’ll have to pull it back apart to check the ejector microswitch and the plunger (which I didn’t touch at all). I did all this from the coin door and under the black plastic Guard, I didn’t lift the play field.

Thank you.

Lifted the play field and checked wires. There was this wire that was spliced and the electrical tape fell off. Might have caused AN issue. However checked everywhere else and didn’t see anything.

Still doing the same thing...

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Played a few games full through. Ball 1 is let into the ejector, ejects. Then as soon as it hits the microswitch for the plunger/trigger the game goes hectic running through a few screens rapidly and random solenoids kick on. The moment you hit the trigger all that stops when the ball is kicked into the play field.

Play is flawless. Multi ball/etc works great now that I fixed the issue with the balls sticking in the trough.

But there ya something up with the wiring/microswitch for the trigger/ball solenoid. It’s late, I’ll have to figure it out another time.

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Yeah man, I just got the Pin, first time I pulled a play field up. I do plan on tidying up the wiring and fixing the hacked taped areas.

Thank you.

So I am going to be resoldering this. I can take more pictures. But the solder has a clearly flat spot on it that has an indent identical to the part you can see that it broke off of.

I took the picture so show another problem I found, don’t know why I didn’t mention it. Thank you!!

Yep! I will be soldering this. I don’t know why I didn’t mention it in my reply. Thank you for the reply. I found 3 sections with the bare wires. Took pictures of a few. Definitely a few hacks in here, I will endeavor to fix them all.

Do you like crimp connectors with shrink tubing? Or do you like to twist/solder/shrink wrap?

Perfect. Thank you for your time. Wipping out the Hakko

Rock on man!! Will do. I’m going on vacation so might not get to it until l get back. But I’ll update the thread. Thank you again! Definitely some on the road operator quick hacks under here haha.

Well. Back from vacation. Decided to open her back up. Put it in diagnostic mode and went to the switches, and took a video when I would hit the microswitch in the shooter lane it would also activate 5-6 other switches. Had to go frame by frame to write them all down. Then I checked each of those switches. The problem seemed to be in the “Herrerasaurus Low” target. Seemed the screw holding it in was maybe loose? I straightened the targets and made sure nothing else was touching and was able to run some games and didn’t appear that there were any issues during the gameplay.

However after 6-8 games then problem returned again. Checked the original culprit and there were no apparent issues. Put it back in diagnostic again and the shooter lane is now triggering 4-5 different switches than it was originally.

It was late so I stopped working on it for the night. Going to open her back up with fresh eyes and look around again. Very annoying.

One last thing, just for S&G I was checking diodes in circuit and the diode on the shooter lane microswitch is showing OL on one side when every other diode on other micro switches (when active) will show 1 and .5 respectively when swapping meter leads. There a problem with that diode?

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