Quoted from JP1993:

Thanks for all the suggestions on the T-Rex not eating the ball issue I'm having - definitely appreciate the thoughts and help. Spent some time with the machine did worked through the diagnostic checks recommended and while I haven't gotten to the final solution yet, it seems like I've definitely eliminated quite of few of the other potential issues sources (which is a win for sure). I did check the main cable conduit to him and all seems good with no cracking of the wires - so I think I'm good there. I also ran the T-Rex diagnostics and it looks like he's doing everything he's supposed to (all the switches check-out - top/bottom/center/left/right and I can even get him to "chomp" when he's in the up position (all the switches on the diagnostic menu check out good). The issue still remains that his jaw doesn't "close" around the ball when he's in the full down position in game mode (or diagnostics mode for that matter) - but he does everything else perfect. In the diagnostics mode, I did try the trigger/jaw test when he was fully "down" but nothing happened, but I don't know if that's really a diagnostic test protocol or not (in the down position).
When he does go down to pick up the ball, is his jaw supposed to "close" around the ball in a separate action trigger or is this more of a "friction" action where the jaws simply envelope the ball and then eat/dispose of it when it "chomps" when it's fully up? If it's a "friction" issue, was thinking may I need to tighten up the jaw or something similar?
Thanks again for any thoughts or past experiences - think I'm getting close!

Quoted from C65Mustang:Full cabinet Light count quantites
I figured that I would add this add as I couldn't find it any where else and I think this is good information
#44 bulbs = 100 exactly
#89 bulbs = 25
#555 bulbs = 31(this includes coin door lights and start button light)
#906 bulbs = 6
The only light I did not pull from my cabinet and I don't know what it is, is the light in the trigger"smart missle" light.
This is I believe an exact count of all lights in the cabinet, this includes the lights on the top of the cabinet where the topper sits.

Quoted from kba78:

Does this count include the bottom row of the backbox?
Those were originally 455 flashers

Quoted from BobC:

CPR has PLASTICS for sale!!!
http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html

Quoted from comment23:

Here are some more comparison shots that I was able to get tonight:
Side by side, power off:

Power On:
For power on, I put in two brand new Comet Pinball SMD 2835 bulbs.

New CPR, Power on:

Original Power on:

My earlier post was pretty optimistic that perhaps the darker blue may be "more dynamic", but honestly I'm starting to feel a bit disappointed by these. In my opinion, you would not be able to mix together the two sets of plastics (much like I have done with other CPR sets Like DESW).

Quoted from mbott1701:

Oh happy day, I joined the club!

Quoted from BrewersArcade:

While I appreciate CPR deeply, I don't understand why the blue's can't be color matched. I had the same frustration with the repro Space Shuttle plastics. Minor details I understand since it is being redrawn but the blue's are just so off and it isn't due to fade. Prob gonna pick up a set but I didn't really want to swap out everything.

Quoted from stwicks:

Thought this was interesting concerning the CPR plastic colors. This is a copy of the JP flyer, look at the flipper plastics, they are a darker blue than the rest...

Quoted from Spencer:

Good point, I ordered a set. I'll sell some originals and maybe the new orange sling-shot set too.

Quoted from PinsOnly:

Where can I see this topper? I am confused by the name. I must have missed the original post. Thanks.

Quoted from ypurchn:

What's the opinion on the titltopper? I like it. Im more looking for comments on build quality and value.

Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

but I can't seem to find a free play option no matter how much I scroll through. Maybe I'm blind but I can't see it.
Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks peeps
Gaz

Quoted from Chalkey:

How do I get 6.0 roms if I don't have a rom recorder thing?

Quoted from Chalkey:

Holy shit. Has my one way bracket been installed backwards by the p.o.? Mine bounces off it towards the upper right flipper.

Quoted from Spencer:

Just installed my topper and love it! Removed all the domes/lights on top of the back box and taped up the holes.
Only one thing left to figure out.... The power shed lights don't work.... anything common I should check? I can't see any issues.

Quoted from Lonzo:

So having never had one before, has there been a consensus on LCD v LED? I will be putting one of these in mine.

Quoted from ypurchn:

I will be the first to say that I'm like 50-50 on it. Some of the screen shots posted had the greens very dark and the Dinos looked cartoonish - mostly the raptor skill shot. Waiting to see a video before deciding.
I think trex multiball screen and match screen could offer a lot.

Quoted from Soapman:

Dumb question, enjoyvelvet how do you get the match scene on free play?

Quoted from ImNotNorm:

I want to be part of this club so baaaaad!
What's the magic word to get in?

Quoted from flakeloaf:

As in "it moves very slowly when it needs to move left to right" or "it drifts lazily left to right when it should be sitting still"?

Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I'd be interested in one. Preferably one that could mount to an existing screw.

Quoted from Pimp77:

Just to be clear...there’s no red, only orange and blue.

Quoted from remf:

Hi! I just got the game this weekend and I'm happy to be part of the JP club finally.

Quoted from Pimp77:

LOL, not that it matters but I think we’re both right. It starts red at the top, but is predominantly orange shades. Took me a while to find this pic because everyone seems to agree that the blue ones look much better on the game.

Quoted from Soapman:

That has been fixed. Photo taken after I put back together, flipper was not tight.

Quoted from ypurchn:

I have a basically new JP tilt topper for sale if anyone is interested. 5-10 hours on it max.
Make offer via PM. Retail is $245 shipped.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Anyone have any new or used blue or red slingshot plastics they’d like to unload? Blue preferred but I’d buy red at the right price. Working on filling up my stocking early
Pm me what you got.

Quoted from woody24:

Nothing in the left one. Hole is just there. Rubber on the right post for sure.

Quoted from woody24:

I've only just got the ring on my right post. Not the fat hunk of rubber to cover the rest. I do have them on some other posts though.
I wish the guy who just recently got the NIB JP would open it up and take photos of it. Then we'll know for certain how it was shipped.

Quoted from GRB1959:

Here are some photos that I had previously taken on those areas on my JP. Hopefully this helps you out.
Gord

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one confirm this?

Quoted from ypurchn:

straight from colordmd website

but haven't seen any actual examples of what it looks like when it happens

Quoted from Lonzo:

I need a little help from you guys that have an assembled JP in front of you.
Some of you may be following my thread on my full JP restoration.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration
I am in the process of cleaning the screw holes of clear coat before assembly and I have ran into an issue. On the left out lane, my machine did not have a metal post with a ring on it. It appears that nothing was ever installed there but the dimple for the screw is there. I have seen pictures that show a post installed and other that look like mine. The manual calls for a ring at that location and it appears in the drawings on both sides. Just trying to get an idea if there is supposed to be a post there. I don't want to clean the hole out and then realize there isn't supposed to be a post there.
Thanks for the help.

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Make a wanted ad?

Quoted from Darscot:

A pinsider sold me mine for pretty cheap its not a ceramic ball. You can buy 4 packs of colored balls, I wish I could remember who was selling them, he had broken up a few packs to sell individual, I think it was less that $20. In that ball park anyway.
Found it http://shop.modmypin.com/ $48 for 4 balls. Maybe you can find 3 other people.

Quoted from mbott1701:

I'd be in for one.

Quoted from Chalkey:

I'll give one a try.

Quoted from C65Mustang:

I am interested in one for sure!

Quoted from Lonzo:

You need to adjust the curved ball guide in the shooter lane.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Shameless bumps for slingshot plastics (red/orange or blue)

Quoted from Marcdaddy:

In the Spirit of Christmas PM me your address and ill give you my old Plastic as shown in the picture. Its not in bad shape and I have the New Kit with 2 sets of each. If this helps you out its free to you!

Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys wondered if anyone can help me out, I have always had a very faint hum in attract mode but once you play it was gone. After installing my color DMD I have a noticeable hum on the Right Speaker and the left speaker has none. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about just buying a Pinsound, New Speakers and the new wire harness kit but would be mad if it still was doing it lol.

Quoted from ChadH:

For those faint of heart... do not skip to the 7 minute and 45 second mark of this video. Repeat... do not skip to the 7 minute and 45 second mark of this video.

Quoted from remf:

so how much can I save if i just buy them individually from comet?

Quoted from Chalkey:

the flashers are blinding

Quoted from hawkeyexx:

When I click the link it's asking for me to log in? Do I need to join?
Thanks

Quoted from adamross:

Anyone know how to score new clear flasher domes? Mine are rotted and Marco seems to be sold out.

Quoted from Darscot:

Damn for real, I replaced mine with blue domes to tone down the flash. Didn't know they were worth their weight in gold.

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I kinda wish the second one didnt have dinosaur silhouettes, just the grass, trees, and basckdrop....

Quoted from ypurchn:

All those cpr orders and no extra plastics? I really just need the left but I’d buy both so the colors match better!!

Quoted from GRB1959:

Below are a couple of photos of my topper attached to my JP. The JP topper is attached with 4 screws as shown in the photo. There is no bracket as the metal piece is a light reflector for the light flashers behind it.
Gord

Quoted from Soapman:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/82#post-4161300
I made my own. See the above post. With sizes.

Quoted from Wiggy:

Speaking of flipper rebuilds.. Is there any kits out there for all 3 flippers? Or do I need to order a kit for the lower ones and loose parts for the upper right?
What should one replace then, everything but the coil?

Quoted from kcZ:

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.
Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Sorry guys/gals, I decided to go with the one from mezel mods. Use coupon code: excited for 10% off - came out to $18.27 shipped which is probably about as good as it's going to get. I'll report back on how it goes
https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-glo-balls?variant=3011160260

Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

Put less pressure on the right flipper button, it'll drop only the upper.

Quoted from Bugsy:

I have also used the 1smd's and really like how they look, they look great in my FT. Have you ever tried the 2smd's? They are supposed to be a bit brighter but are listed as the same price. So next game I do I was contemplating using the 2smd's, but I'm not sure.

Quoted from modfather:

A couple of screws, slap it in a box , drop off at post office............and BAM , looking all badass returned in a week. Don't be scared, have trust in the ModFather.

Quoted from GRB1959:

I see that there are some blue JP slingshot plastics available. I know that previously there have been some JP owners looking for the blue slingshot plastics. It looks like there are 5 of the JP blue slingshot plastics (2 complete sets + an extra left side slingshot plastic) and 4 of the JP orange slingshot plastics (2 complete sets).
Note that I am not the seller of these plastics. The seller is widebodyguy.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/various-slingshot-and-other-plastics
Gord

Quoted from Chalkey:

Lol. JP might be the most over-modded pin out there.

Quoted from jugood20:

Anyone know where I can find an NOS or original used JP translite?
Also, has anyone bought a repro translite off of EBay, seller name “classicarcades”? If so, how is the quality ?

Quoted from Bugsy:

What is with the LEDs behind the translite? You're not serious with those colours are you?

Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, my JP is missing the topper. I see there are repros for 150 bucks.
Is it worth it? I see there are lights up there. It must light up. Thoughts?

Quoted from DropTarget:

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.
I could use the correct ring count as well.
Thx

Quoted from ypurchn:

Does anyone have an accurate rubbers count?
I’m going to order Titan rubbers within a day or 2 and want to get it correct since the book is wrong.
I may just do a big kit so I can do another pin. Just worried about the oddball 2.75” or 3.25” etc.
It’s currently done in mostly white but I’m considering going black so I don’t take away from the game itself. Plus I’m picky so once I set a black spot on the white I feel the need to clean it. Thoughts? Comments?
Will also be installing all of my awesome Rock custom mods I got from Secret Santa this year

Quoted from DropTarget:

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.
I could use the correct ring count as well.
Thx

Quoted from ypurchn:

I know for a fact it’s wrong on bulbs and I’m 98% sure rubbers are wrong as well. I’m sure we’ll get some advice soon.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Here is what Titan has on their website can anyone confirm? Disregard the colors unless you can post pictures for what you used.
What the difference in thickness of the post sleeves?
[quoted image]

Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

The original black rubber was so cracked, dead and broken, worst I've seen on a game I think. Shopped this out and made a red rubber kit at titanpinball.com with some corrections because the manual is incorrect.

Quoted from woody24:

I'll second Cliffy Post rubber. Had airballs with Superband post rubber before. So bad, i had a couple shots so hard, that it was hitting the post, fly over the crossover ramp, and hit the flipper in the air.
Installing the Cliffy post stopped all that.

Quoted from Pinphila:

Guys, I realize the topper light deflector is not available. Can someone tell me how long it is? I am going to make a metal piece myself.
Thanks!

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Excited to finally join the club. Got help coming to bring it down to the basement tomorrow. These are built like tanks and weigh substantially more than normal pins. I did not realize they were 325 pounds until I picked it up! Anyways, little kids in my house are losing their mind. The dinosaur eats the ball! Came with the 6.0 code.
[quoted image]

Quoted from TommyNYC:

Hey Guys
If i was to replace the glass on the JP is this a wide body or standard size glass?

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Fixed the flippers but side to side TREX is still broken. I took this off and reflowed the solder. I confirmed with my limited multimeter skills a clear connection through all circuits on the board, and between the motor and the blue wires here. I confirmed with a small battery that the motor will spin with direct DC current. What is the next troubleshooting step?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Here's the thing though... motor turns in and out of the gearbox when battery is applied. It does not turn during TREX diagnostics when house power is turned on... The motor works... there is connectivity to that circuit. What else do I need to check? Thanks for the advice!

Quoted from winteriscoming:

Is that some kind of premium glass? At my local show there's a guy who sells them for $25 each or 4 for $100. At least it was that way a couple years ago.

Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi everyone. I’m beyond late to the club but can anyone point me to a thread for a new owner and “must do’s” for this title? Or a few tips? I read a bit about 6.0 and know the one I’m getting has been sitting stock for a while. Thanks

Quoted from Davi:

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.
Sidenote:
I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:
nocreditdot
jp1993
groucho
bigcat68
I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.

Quoted from Lonzo:

I put two relays in the backbox. That turn the backbox GI off whenever the flippers are active. I’m sure Stern stole my idea when they added that adjustment to new pins.

Quoted from J-Freeze:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ypurchn:

I am striking out on finding these "service rails" on marco or pinballlife. Can you share a part number?

Quoted from weasel671:

Yes, he works fine in diagnostic test.

Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've got one of the opto boards on the way from Davi. What was the shipping time for those in the US and did it require a signature?

Quoted from weasel671:

I checked the white rubber tip. It seems good. Thank you for the insight. Someone else had posted that you can adjust the metal scoop at the end of the shooting lane. Apparently it has slotted holes in it. The ball was hitting the top of the gate and/or hitting the yellow target by it. I adjusted it all the way down. Getting a pretty good percentage going into the pop bumpers now, but still not 100%

Quoted from ypurchn:

Lonzo for the win again! Unfortunately I had to move mine so far forward in the notch for the 1st screw that I couldn’t get the 2nd screw back in. [quoted image]
I’ll give the coil cleanup a try because it didn’t do for the first 10 or so times after I started the pin up but progressively got worst as I continued to cycle the plunger. Perhaps it’s also coil and heat related too.

Quoted from weasel671:

My trex still eats the ball, then comes halfway down and stays there the rest of the game until I hit start.

Quoted from weasel671:

he only moves left no matter what flipper I hit, but its intermittent also. In game, he sometimes wont move left or right to pick up the ball also. Any ideas?

Quoted from weasel671:

The upper switch works fine in diagnostics. Maybe he's not far enough up when he hits the switch?

Quoted from weasel671:

What exactly did you do to fix it?

Quoted from ypurchn:

I had to bend the wire up just a little so it was making solid contact and activating the switch properly. Basically, the machine never sees the switch activate so it just leaves it down.
Mine would sometimes show in test mode but almost never worked in the game - I attributed this to the shaker causing extra vibrations.
I believe it was the top switch in the assembly that needed adjustment. So this would make it the “trex down position switch” - I think.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133