(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,150 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ypurchn.
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#3011 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

Thanks for all the suggestions on the T-Rex not eating the ball issue I'm having - definitely appreciate the thoughts and help. Spent some time with the machine did worked through the diagnostic checks recommended and while I haven't gotten to the final solution yet, it seems like I've definitely eliminated quite of few of the other potential issues sources (which is a win for sure). I did check the main cable conduit to him and all seems good with no cracking of the wires - so I think I'm good there. I also ran the T-Rex diagnostics and it looks like he's doing everything he's supposed to (all the switches check-out - top/bottom/center/left/right and I can even get him to "chomp" when he's in the up position (all the switches on the diagnostic menu check out good). The issue still remains that his jaw doesn't "close" around the ball when he's in the full down position in game mode (or diagnostics mode for that matter) - but he does everything else perfect. In the diagnostics mode, I did try the trigger/jaw test when he was fully "down" but nothing happened, but I don't know if that's really a diagnostic test protocol or not (in the down position).
When he does go down to pick up the ball, is his jaw supposed to "close" around the ball in a separate action trigger or is this more of a "friction" action where the jaws simply envelope the ball and then eat/dispose of it when it "chomps" when it's fully up? If it's a "friction" issue, was thinking may I need to tighten up the jaw or something similar?
Thanks again for any thoughts or past experiences - think I'm getting close!

Mine was having this same issue and I ended up having to replace the black wire that runs to TREX. It's a known problem that I found in a post somewhere but my issue was what you described - chomps fine when vertical, won't chomp when horizontal. Something about a black wire rubbing wrong or not being long enough, don't remember exactly the issue, but replaced the wire and it works fine now. Sorry for the really crappy description. I'm sure a few pinside searches will turn up a much more thorough solution.

The TREX "closes" around the ball, brings it up vertical and it falls into the subway. It doesn't "hold" the ball in it's teeth, just grabs it into it's mouth.

2 weeks later
#3043 2 years ago


Quoted from C65Mustang:Full cabinet Light count quantites
I figured that I would add this add as I couldn't find it any where else and I think this is good information
#44 bulbs = 100 exactly
#89 bulbs = 25
#555 bulbs = 31(this includes coin door lights and start button light)
#906 bulbs = 6
The only light I did not pull from my cabinet and I don't know what it is, is the light in the trigger"smart missle" light.
This is I believe an exact count of all lights in the cabinet, this includes the lights on the top of the cabinet where the topper sits.

I 2nd this count. I verified this vs what I pulled out and what I put in when I LED mine a few weeks back. The manual is way off. I didn't do the start button or smart missle button and got these same numbers. Add 10% for brand new bulbs not working + a few spares + samples for other games.

Added over 3 years ago: Forgot that I chose not to change (1) #44/47 bulb that is under the subway...

Also their are (7) #455 in the backbox in the bottom row that should lower the #44/47 by (7)

Otherwise matches what I got.

#3061 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Does this count include the bottom row of the backbox?
Those were originally 455 flashers

Nope. I didn't even know these had 455 in them until I read it in another post.

Who are you guys using for your 455 LEDs? I see that comet has some and I've liked all of their stuff so far but $1.20/bulb is hard to justify for the backbox.

My BTTF has 455 in the backbox as well. Must be a DE thing.

1 week later
#3102 2 years ago

Thanks for this heads up!

I went ahead and bought a full set this morning. I didn't need all of them but figured it didn't hurt to have them. Some of the bigger pieces I may try to resell to help refill the pinball expense pot.

#3120 2 years ago

And this is the sorry of your great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great grandmother and that time she ate a human sitting on a toilet.

IMG_3841 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3149 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Here are some more comparison shots that I was able to get tonight:
Side by side, power off:

Power On:
For power on, I put in two brand new Comet Pinball SMD 2835 bulbs.

New CPR, Power on:

Original Power on:

My earlier post was pretty optimistic that perhaps the darker blue may be "more dynamic", but honestly I'm starting to feel a bit disappointed by these. In my opinion, you would not be able to mix together the two sets of plastics (much like I have done with other CPR sets Like DESW).

Very disappointing. Basically bought the whole set to grab what I needed and part out the rest. Guess I'm holding onto them all at this point and they'll get changed when I do a the next shop job in a few years...

And the 2835 are 2 SMD LED. I do the 5050 which are 1 SMD...

#3162 2 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Oh happy day, I joined the club!

Welcome. Still a firm believer that if this machine says B/W on it it's easily within the top 25. Even at its current slot it's truly underrated.

#3192 2 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

While I appreciate CPR deeply, I don't understand why the blue's can't be color matched. I had the same frustration with the repro Space Shuttle plastics. Minor details I understand since it is being redrawn but the blue's are just so off and it isn't due to fade. Prob gonna pick up a set but I didn't really want to swap out everything.

I contacted cpr and they said they were color matched off of a NOS set - I guess a well hidden from light set. Mine are going back just have to get around to shipping them.

3 weeks later
#3211 2 years ago
Quoted from stwicks:

Thought this was interesting concerning the CPR plastic colors. This is a copy of the JP flyer, look at the flipper plastics, they are a darker blue than the rest...

Yes but it's ONLY the flipper plastics. All of the CPR plastics came out too dark - or all of the blue is too faded on my entire playfield while none of the reds on my playfield or cab show this fading, however you wanna look at it.

#3217 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Good point, I ordered a set. I'll sell some originals and maybe the new orange sling-shot set too.

First in line for your originals.

1 month later
#3301 2 years ago

What's the opinion on the titltopper? I like it. Im more looking for comments on build quality and value.

#3309 2 years ago
Quoted from PinsOnly:

Where can I see this topper? I am confused by the name. I must have missed the original post. Thanks.

http://www.tilttopper.com/jurassic-park.html

#3312 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

What's the opinion on the titltopper? I like it. Im more looking for comments on build quality and value.

Just went ahead and ordered it. My JP is never leaving my collection so I figured why not.

#3315 2 years ago

When you get to "expand adjustments" you need to hit yes. I think it's option 12-14 or so.

Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

but I can't seem to find a free play option no matter how much I scroll through. Maybe I'm blind but I can't see it.
Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks peeps
Gaz

1 week later
#3321 2 years ago

Check the condition of the wire ramps. Very prone to cracking on the right hand side where the VUK is. It's not a deal breaker but can be problematic.
Obviously the Trex as already mentioned. You can manually operate it from within the adjustments menu.

2 weeks later
#3371 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

How do I get 6.0 roms if I don't have a rom recorder thing?

johnwartjr did mine.

#3388 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Holy shit. Has my one way bracket been installed backwards by the p.o.? Mine bounces off it towards the upper right flipper.

Yes. Yes it has.

#3398 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Just installed my topper and love it! Removed all the domes/lights on top of the back box and taped up the holes.
Only one thing left to figure out.... The power shed lights don't work.... anything common I should check? I can't see any issues.

I just put mine on the other night and wished it would have been larger. I was expecting more the size of my original topper...

1 week later
#3424 2 years ago

ugh!! of course the color DMD gets released right after I buy a tilt topper...

hurry Christmas hurry fast

#3432 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

So having never had one before, has there been a consensus on LCD v LED? I will be putting one of these in mine.

I believe JP will only be done in LED. I've noticed this with a few of the games recently. Not sure if it's size required, programming, or cost related.

#3458 2 years ago

I will be the first to say that I'm like 50-50 on it. Some of the screen shots posted had the greens very dark and the Dinos looked cartoonish - mostly the raptor skill shot. Waiting to see a video before deciding.

I think trex multiball screen and match screen could offer a lot.

#3486 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I will be the first to say that I'm like 50-50 on it. Some of the screen shots posted had the greens very dark and the Dinos looked cartoonish - mostly the raptor skill shot. Waiting to see a video before deciding.
I think trex multiball screen and match screen could offer a lot.

I fully retract my doubts after seeing the video. Looks really good.

#3519 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

Dumb question, enjoyvelvet how do you get the match scene on free play?

I think it's a 6.0 code glitch as I never got it at 5.13 and upon upgrading to 6.0, I now get the "match" and "buy-in" screens on free-play with the option turned off.

1 week later
#3536 2 years ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

I want to be part of this club so baaaaad!
What's the magic word to get in?

IMG_4373 (resized).JPG

#3547 2 years ago

My trex is starting to move very slowly left to right. I'm assuming it's time to rebuild and replace the motor. Any tips/pointers?

#3573 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

As in "it moves very slowly when it needs to move left to right" or "it drifts lazily left to right when it should be sitting still"?

Like it doesn't really move right and got stuck left so I had to go into settings and move it to the right and it took like 20 seconds to go 1" to activate the center switch. I then had to disable left/right movement

2 months later
#3739 2 years ago

I have a basically new JP tilt topper for sale if anyone is interested. 5-10 hours on it max.

Make offer via PM. Retail is $245 shipped. IMG_4613 (resized).JPGIMG_4612 (resized).JPG

#3756 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I'd be interested in one. Preferably one that could mount to an existing screw.

Agreed

1 week later
#3788 2 years ago

Anyone have any new or used blue or red slingshot plastics they’d like to unload? Blue preferred but I’d buy red at the right price. Working on filling up my stocking early
Pm me what you got.

#3799 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Just to be clear...there’s no red, only orange and blue.

Just to be clear, I can’t find any mention of colors in the manual so I’d enjoy seeing your proof that what I call a red plastic is actually orange.

#3804 2 years ago
Quoted from remf:

Hi! I just got the game this weekend and I'm happy to be part of the JP club finally.

welcome! JP is one of the better and more active clubs on pinside

#3805 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

LOL, not that it matters but I think we’re both right. It starts red at the top, but is predominantly orange shades. Took me a while to find this pic because everyone seems to agree that the blue ones look much better on the game.

that right flipper looks kinda wonky...

#3808 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

That has been fixed. Photo taken after I put back together, flipper was not tight.

I've run into this issue before as well. How'd you end up fixing? I put a nut on the cap screw to get some more "umph"

#3820 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I have a basically new JP tilt topper for sale if anyone is interested. 5-10 hours on it max.
Make offer via PM. Retail is $245 shipped.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Anyone have any new or used blue or red slingshot plastics they’d like to unload? Blue preferred but I’d buy red at the right price. Working on filling up my stocking early
Pm me what you got.

Shameless bumps for slingshot plastics (red/orange or blue) and someone maybe interested in buying a Tilt Topper

#3824 2 years ago

Can someone take a pic of their left and right in and out lane areas?

I've always thought that JP was BRUTAL on the left side, come to find out, I have a small little pilot hole in my PF that is directly above the in and out lane with nothing in it. On the right side, I have a "spike" post with no rubber on it. Just trying to figure out what should be there!

#3826 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Nothing in the left one. Hole is just there. Rubber on the right post for sure.

will then my pin is about to be slanted way to the right. I get so many cheap drains to the left...

Thanks!

#3836 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I've only just got the ring on my right post. Not the fat hunk of rubber to cover the rest. I do have them on some other posts though.
I wish the guy who just recently got the NIB JP would open it up and take photos of it. Then we'll know for certain how it was shipped.

I wonder if lonzo has any insight given his current resto?

#3837 2 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Here are some photos that I had previously taken on those areas on my JP. Hopefully this helps you out.
Gord

I just noticed that it looks like you have plastic protectors on your pin. Who makes them for JP? I know like I've looked but I wasn't able to find them

#3845 2 years ago

so what's the verdict on colorDMD - LED or LCD for JP?

#3852 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one confirm this?

straight from colordmd website

pasted_image (resized).png

but haven't seen any actual examples of what it looks like when it happens

#3863 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

straight from colordmd website

but haven't seen any actual examples of what it looks like when it happens

Pulled the plug and ordered my LED version today. Merry Xmas to me!

1 week later
#3877 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I need a little help from you guys that have an assembled JP in front of you.
Some of you may be following my thread on my full JP restoration.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration
I am in the process of cleaning the screw holes of clear coat before assembly and I have ran into an issue. On the left out lane, my machine did not have a metal post with a ring on it. It appears that nothing was ever installed there but the dimple for the screw is there. I have seen pictures that show a post installed and other that look like mine. The manual calls for a ring at that location and it appears in the drawings on both sides. Just trying to get an idea if there is supposed to be a post there. I don't want to clean the hole out and then realize there isn't supposed to be a post there.
Thanks for the help.

Go back about 2 pages and I asked this same thing. Idk if a real final decision was ever made...

I actually thought if anyone would know it would be you!

#3912 1 year ago

I was wanting to do this but everyone wants $50. I can spray paint a ball for that!

#3917 1 year ago

I posted something in the TZ club thread. Maybe someone will come forward?

#3919 1 year ago
Quoted from Darscot:

A pinsider sold me mine for pretty cheap its not a ceramic ball. You can buy 4 packs of colored balls, I wish I could remember who was selling them, he had broken up a few packs to sell individual, I think it was less that $20. In that ball park anyway.
Found it http://shop.modmypin.com/ $48 for 4 balls. Maybe you can find 3 other people.

comes to $56 for an order, which = $14/ball. I'm in for 1 + reasonable shipping costs ($3-4?). I can do the deal and shipping if I get 3 other folks interested and paid up

#3926 1 year ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I'd be in for one.

Quoted from Chalkey:

I'll give one a try.

Quoted from C65Mustang:

I am interested in one for sure!

Sorry guys/gals, I decided to go with the one from mezel mods. Use coupon code: excited for 10% off - came out to $18.27 shipped which is probably about as good as it's going to get. I'll report back on how it goes

https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-glo-balls?variant=3011160260

#3927 1 year ago

So on another note, the ball keeps hitting the top green target when coming out of the shooter lane before it goes into the pop bumper area. What is the most likely culprit thats causing this issue?

#3934 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

You need to adjust the curved ball guide in the shooter lane.

Lonzo for the win again! Unfortunately I had to move mine so far forward in the notch for the 1st screw that I couldn’t get the 2nd screw back in. D3C3C070-F519-4C19-AF0C-BEDFF9DC8462 (resized).jpeg

I’ll give the coil cleanup a try because it didn’t do for the first 10 or so times after I started the pin up but progressively got worst as I continued to cycle the plunger. Perhaps it’s also coil and heat related too.

#3952 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Shameless bumps for slingshot plastics (red/orange or blue)

All those cpr orders and no extra plastics? I really just need the left but I’d buy both so the colors match better!!

#3956 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

In the Spirit of Christmas PM me your address and ill give you my old Plastic as shown in the picture. Its not in bad shape and I have the New Kit with 2 sets of each. If this helps you out its free to you!

I could have saved you postage 5 years ago when I lived in Plainfield! PM sent
Pinside Christmas is AWESOME!!!

3 weeks later
#4096 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys wondered if anyone can help me out, I have always had a very faint hum in attract mode but once you play it was gone. After installing my color DMD I have a noticeable hum on the Right Speaker and the left speaker has none. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about just buying a Pinsound, New Speakers and the new wire harness kit but would be mad if it still was doing it lol.

Start with a few of these cheaper ideas. Please report back on your findings! I have the same issue just haven’t jumped into tackling it yet. Mine tracks with the PF lighting.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure

#4114 1 year ago
Quoted from ChadH:

For those faint of heart... do not skip to the 7 minute and 45 second mark of this video. Repeat... do not skip to the 7 minute and 45 second mark of this video.

So of course I went to exactly that moment! I couldn’t watch the commentary to actually see what happened... that’s for work tomorrow

#4146 1 year ago
Quoted from remf:

so how much can I save if i just buy them individually from comet?

About 1/2-1/3 the cost give or take depending on how fancy you get.

For JP it’s easy
COMET 1 SMD
Color match R/G/B inserts
Warm white Y and O
Warm white GI
GOOD TO GO!

If you bring your D&D with you I’ll let you check mine out

#4149 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

the flashers are blinding

Do NOT do the flashers. 90%+ of LED complaints comes from the flashers.

1 week later
#4192 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

When I click the link it's asking for me to log in? Do I need to join?
Thanks

Me too. Gord used a beta address he must get to do pinside testing. Just go back to page 35 and you should find what you’re looking for.

Or drop the beta out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/35#post-2975154

#4222 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Anyone know how to score new clear flasher domes? Mine are rotted and Marco seems to be sold out.

Best of luck finding new ones. I ended up posting a wanted add and paid something like $30-35 for 3 used ones shipped from Eastern Europe.

#4225 1 year ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Damn for real, I replaced mine with blue domes to tone down the flash. Didn't know they were worth their weight in gold.

Actually $25 I went back and checked. It wasn’t a steal but not horrible IMO. DOMESTIC shipping is $6-8. Puts them around $5-6 each which is reasonable for what I decided was a semi unobtainium kinda part from Romania. The domed octagon wasn’t used on many games based on what I could find.

#4252 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I kinda wish the second one didnt have dinosaur silhouettes, just the grass, trees, and basckdrop....

Buy the 3rd one...

1 week later
#4271 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

All those cpr orders and no extra plastics? I really just need the left but I’d buy both so the colors match better!!

still looking for a left blue original slingshot plastic in blue... I'll keep holding out before I go to pinball center and the hassle of shipping to a forwarder...

5 months later
#4451 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Below are a couple of photos of my topper attached to my JP. The JP topper is attached with 4 screws as shown in the photo. There is no bracket as the metal piece is a light reflector for the light flashers behind it.
Gord

I've always wondered what went there. Owned my JP for 20 years and it's never had the metal light reflector piece. I didn't see anything in the manual that gives a part number. Does one exist?

#4456 1 year ago

Any interest in making them and selling? I'm sure I'm not the only guy missing this.

I don't have metal fab tools and no longer have access to a machine shop I can play in. My only choice is to take it to a local fab shop.

#4465 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Speaking of flipper rebuilds.. Is there any kits out there for all 3 flippers? Or do I need to order a kit for the lower ones and loose parts for the upper right?
What should one replace then, everything but the coil?

I’ll typically go ahead and put a new coil on as well while I’m there. $25 well spent. Lots of times they’re mismatched or just wrong.

#4472 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.
Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.

Nice!

#4478 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Sorry guys/gals, I decided to go with the one from mezel mods. Use coupon code: excited for 10% off - came out to $18.27 shipped which is probably about as good as it's going to get. I'll report back on how it goes
https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-glo-balls?variant=3011160260

I said I'd report back in:

this ball is depressingly beat up. MAYBE 100 plays in the last 7+ months. and 75 of those are my 2 yr. old who has about a 7 second ball time...

I'm going back on the hunt for the ceramic TZ ball

3 weeks later
#4501 1 year ago

So you really do learn something new everyday. Around the 2:30 mark this guy somehow gets the upper flipper to drop. How do you do that?

I feel like I’ve been missing out for 20 years... and just spent the last 20 minutes beating on my flippers and got nowhere

#4503 1 year ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

Put less pressure on the right flipper button, it'll drop only the upper.

Thanks!

Well I’ll be damned... JP RG and FG all new games now cause of this. I always wondered why it had stacked switches...

Just realized that for some reason my FG does this but the mini flipper is the first position. Time to investigate.

1 month later
#4614 1 year ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I have also used the 1smd's and really like how they look, they look great in my FT. Have you ever tried the 2smd's? They are supposed to be a bit brighter but are listed as the same price. So next game I do I was contemplating using the 2smd's, but I'm not sure.

I put 2 SMDs warm white frosted in my slings and I like the extra light. It would be too much on a whole pin but it certain spots it probably makes sense.
My next order I’m going to do the 2 SMD for oranges cause the 1 SMD oranges through out noticeably less light. Same for the yellows. I usually just use warm white for orange-yellow-amber but in my WoF and BTTF they have an amberish insert so I want to make the orange look different.

#4623 1 year ago
Quoted from modfather:

A couple of screws, slap it in a box , drop off at post office............and BAM , looking all badass returned in a week. Don't be scared, have trust in the ModFather.

Let’s do this.

2 weeks later
#4661 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I see that there are some blue JP slingshot plastics available. I know that previously there have been some JP owners looking for the blue slingshot plastics. It looks like there are 5 of the JP blue slingshot plastics (2 complete sets + an extra left side slingshot plastic) and 4 of the JP orange slingshot plastics (2 complete sets).
Note that I am not the seller of these plastics. The seller is widebodyguy.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/various-slingshot-and-other-plastics
Gord

He’s down to 1 left blue. 2 pairs taken. Not by me unfortunately

3 weeks later
#4729 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Lol. JP might be the most over-modded pin out there.

No way. That title goes to T2. god-awful "mods" for T2.

#4732 1 year ago
Quoted from jugood20:

Anyone know where I can find an NOS or original used JP translite?
Also, has anyone bought a repro translite off of EBay, seller name “classicarcades”? If so, how is the quality ?

Type classicarcades into the Pinside search and you’ll get lots of opinions

#4754 1 year ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

What is with the LEDs behind the translite? You're not serious with those colours are you?

that's the new pirate t-rex coming out in the next reboot

2 weeks later
#4779 11 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, my JP is missing the topper. I see there are repros for 150 bucks.
Is it worth it? I see there are lights up there. It must light up. Thoughts?

It does not light up. It’s a piece of plastic

I prefer original over the other options so if you want a topper I’d do original.

1 month later
#4942 10 months ago

Does anyone have an accurate rubbers count?

I’m going to order Titan rubbers within a day or 2 and want to get it correct since the book is wrong.

I may just do a big kit so I can do another pin. Just worried about the oddball 2.75” or 3.25” etc.

It’s currently done in mostly white but I’m considering going black so I don’t take away from the game itself. Plus I’m picky so once I set a black spot on the white I feel the need to clean it. Thoughts? Comments?

Will also be installing all of my awesome Rock custom mods I got from Secret Santa this year

#4944 10 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.
I could use the correct ring count as well.
Thx

I know for a fact it’s wrong on bulbs and I’m 98% sure rubbers are wrong as well. I’m sure we’ll get some advice soon.

#4945 10 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Does anyone have an accurate rubbers count?
I’m going to order Titan rubbers within a day or 2 and want to get it correct since the book is wrong.
I may just do a big kit so I can do another pin. Just worried about the oddball 2.75” or 3.25” etc.
It’s currently done in mostly white but I’m considering going black so I don’t take away from the game itself. Plus I’m picky so once I set a black spot on the white I feel the need to clean it. Thoughts? Comments?
Will also be installing all of my awesome Rock custom mods I got from Secret Santa this year

Quoted from DropTarget:

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.
I could use the correct ring count as well.
Thx

Quoted from ypurchn:

I know for a fact it’s wrong on bulbs and I’m 98% sure rubbers are wrong as well. I’m sure we’ll get some advice soon.

Here is what Titan has on their website can anyone confirm? Disregard the colors unless you can post pictures for what you used.

What the difference in thickness of the post sleeves?

pasted_image (resized).png

#4949 10 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Here is what Titan has on their website can anyone confirm? Disregard the colors unless you can post pictures for what you used.
What the difference in thickness of the post sleeves?
[quoted image]

I think I'm going to go with shacklersrevenge list over on titan. It seems to be the most complete

Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

The original black rubber was so cracked, dead and broken, worst I've seen on a game I think. Shopped this out and made a red rubber kit at titanpinball.com with some corrections because the manual is incorrect.

Post Sleeves - 1/2 Inch (Stern / DE) Red 9
Post Sleeves - Standard Red 2
Post Sleeves - Standard Lt. Blue 2
Rubber Rings - Flipper Standard Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/16 Inch I.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch I.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/4 Inch I.D. Red 1
Rubber Rings - 1 Inch I.D. Red 1
Rubber Rings - 1 1/4 Inch I.D. Red 5
Rubber Rings - 1 1/2 Inch I.D. Red 1
Misc - Post Cap Lt. Blue 2
Misc - Post Cap Red 2
Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch O.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 2 3/4 Inch I.D. Red 2

#4953 10 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

I'll second Cliffy Post rubber. Had airballs with Superband post rubber before. So bad, i had a couple shots so hard, that it was hitting the post, fly over the crossover ramp, and hit the flipper in the air.
Installing the Cliffy post stopped all that.

Thanks guys. I’ll keep that in my bag of tricks if needed. I just did a ring job about 3-400 plays ago so I’ll have plenty of good rubber post sleeves if I have some issues. I didn’t do a great cleaning just more of a wipe down then. So, this time around I’m stripping it down and getting in their deep.

#4969 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Guys, I realize the topper light deflector is not available. Can someone tell me how long it is? I am going to make a metal piece myself.
Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/82#post-4161300

1 week later
#5010 10 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Excited to finally join the club. Got help coming to bring it down to the basement tomorrow. These are built like tanks and weigh substantially more than normal pins. I did not realize they were 325 pounds until I picked it up! Anyways, little kids in my house are losing their mind. The dinosaur eats the ball! Came with the 6.0 code.
[quoted image]

Nice grab to get one with a topper and metal deflector. How’s the PF? Do you mind sharing at least an approximate number for the purchase price? I know you’ve been wanting a JP for some time. I’m glad you found one.

2 weeks later
#5187 9 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Hey Guys
If i was to replace the glass on the JP is this a wide body or standard size glass?

Standard. Save a lot of cash and pick up a sheet at show. Typically $40 out the door.

#5191 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Fixed the flippers but side to side TREX is still broken. I took this off and reflowed the solder. I confirmed with my limited multimeter skills a clear connection through all circuits on the board, and between the motor and the blue wires here. I confirmed with a small battery that the motor will spin with direct DC current. What is the next troubleshooting step?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Sounds like stripped gears in the motor box.
Power good. Motor turns on. Continuity. No trex moving.
Unless maybe your voltage is way off? But you’d probably see other things.
I ran into this issue and replaced my motor. Some guys have rebuilt them but that’s a lot of work if it doesn’t work and you have to pull the trex again.

#5198 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Here's the thing though... motor turns in and out of the gearbox when battery is applied. It does not turn during TREX diagnostics when house power is turned on... The motor works... there is connectivity to that circuit. What else do I need to check? Thanks for the advice!

Sounds like voltage/power problem since it turns with external power.

I’d check for 5volts at the motor when in trex diagnostics and trying to turn right/left. Obviously you’ll need a 2nd set of hands.

#5204 9 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Is that some kind of premium glass? At my local show there's a guy who sells them for $25 each or 4 for $100. At least it was that way a couple years ago.

Whether it’s $30 or $40 it’s irrelevant. Just trying to save him from paying ~$70-80 sheet when it gets shipped.

I called 1/2 dozen glass shops and couldn’t get pricing below about $35 sheet without buying in large bulk like >25

Marco’s show price is $40. If you getting glass for $20-25 sheet without buying in bulk that’s pretty great. Scratched glass is my biggest pet peeve on a pin.

1 month later
#5486 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi everyone. I’m beyond late to the club but can anyone point me to a thread for a new owner and “must do’s” for this title? Or a few tips? I read a bit about 6.0 and know the one I’m getting has been sitting stock for a while. Thanks

clean it + new rubbers + flame polish the big plastic ramp (not necessary but if done right can look great), enjoy it AS-IS.

JP is becoming the next T2 where everyone just throws crap onto the PF, blocks all ability to see the ball, and calls it awesome.

Color-DMD is great but can be pricey (worth it IMO). Also, Invisiglass/Stern HD/PDI glass is a nice luxury. These mods are great as they can be put onto a lot of machines so they hold their value. Unlike, 95% of "mods" installed that the next owner just rips off.

#5527 8 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.
Sidenote:
I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:
nocreditdot
jp1993
groucho
bigcat68
I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.

I’ll take someone’s slot if it comes to that.

#5529 8 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I put two relays in the backbox. That turn the backbox GI off whenever the flippers are active. I’m sure Stern stole my idea when they added that adjustment to new pins.

Any pics/instructions of the install?

#5562 8 months ago

nvm

#5571 8 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

[quoted image][quoted image]

I am striking out on finding these "service rails" on marco or pinballlife. Can you share a part number?

#5572 8 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I am striking out on finding these "service rails" on marco or pinballlife. Can you share a part number?

of course I search for 10 minutes the second I make this post, tada...

preference to Sam https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-sam-machines.html

or Spike? https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-pinball-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html

#5595 8 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Yes, he works fine in diagnostic test.

It’s one of the up down switches on trex not registering. I had to bend the wire up just a little so it was making solid contact and activating the switch properly. Basically, the machine never sees the switch activate so it just leaves it down.

Mine would sometimes show in test mode but almost never worked in the game - I attributed this to the shaker causing extra vibrations.

I believe it was the top switch in the assembly that needed adjustment. So this would make it the “trex down position switch” - I think.

2 weeks later
#5738 7 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've got one of the opto boards on the way from Davi. What was the shipping time for those in the US and did it require a signature?

mine made it in 4 days from time of him sending me the tracking number. stupid fast

yes sig was required. mail lady woke my slipping kids up from nap. which lead to a "WTF did you buy now" text from wifey...

#5739 7 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

I checked the white rubber tip. It seems good. Thank you for the insight. Someone else had posted that you can adjust the metal scoop at the end of the shooting lane. Apparently it has slotted holes in it. The ball was hitting the top of the gate and/or hitting the yellow target by it. I adjusted it all the way down. Getting a pretty good percentage going into the pop bumpers now, but still not 100%

I ended up having to take out a screw to get the metal ball diverter to align at an angle that would work. It's still weird in my mind because it worked great before I shopped it out, after shopping, missed a lot. here's my old post and fix

Quoted from ypurchn:

Lonzo for the win again! Unfortunately I had to move mine so far forward in the notch for the 1st screw that I couldn’t get the 2nd screw back in. [quoted image]
I’ll give the coil cleanup a try because it didn’t do for the first 10 or so times after I started the pin up but progressively got worst as I continued to cycle the plunger. Perhaps it’s also coil and heat related too.

1 week later
#5835 7 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

My trex still eats the ball, then comes halfway down and stays there the rest of the game until I hit start.

this was exactly my issue that ended up being the upper trex switch

Quoted from weasel671:

he only moves left no matter what flipper I hit, but its intermittent also. In game, he sometimes wont move left or right to pick up the ball also. Any ideas?

this sounds like a wiring issue since trex would be getting "hot" on the left regardless of being told left or right.

#5838 7 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

The upper switch works fine in diagnostics. Maybe he's not far enough up when he hits the switch?

Mine would usually check out ok in diagnostics. Something about gameplay made it not work...

#5840 7 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

What exactly did you do to fix it?

Quoted from ypurchn:

I had to bend the wire up just a little so it was making solid contact and activating the switch properly. Basically, the machine never sees the switch activate so it just leaves it down.
Mine would sometimes show in test mode but almost never worked in the game - I attributed this to the shaker causing extra vibrations.
I believe it was the top switch in the assembly that needed adjustment. So this would make it the “trex down position switch” - I think.

#5858 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

I put one of these on a Twister I had when the lock bar wasn’t cleaning up with Evaporust and plating/powder coating wasnt worth the cost. I ran a quick coat of black spray paint over the bar so that the gap where the sticker sits wouldn’t be so obvious. I almost wish it was oversized so it could be installed and then cut with an exacto to be flush.
Oh and make sure you remove the brass screws. I didn’t... oops

#5876 7 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Anyone have a good rubber kit list? I know titan has a few in their database, but even those have people saying they are missing some. I don't want to buy a bunch and then have to make another order for the 1 or 2 I'll be missing.

Quoted from ypurchn:

I think I'm going to go with shacklersrevenge list over on titan. It seems to be the most complete

Post Sleeves - 1/2 Inch (Stern / DE) Red 9
Post Sleeves - Standard Red 2
Post Sleeves - Standard Lt. Blue 2
Rubber Rings - Flipper Standard Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/16 Inch I.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch I.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/4 Inch I.D. Red 1
Rubber Rings - 1 Inch I.D. Red 1
Rubber Rings - 1 1/4 Inch I.D. Red 5
Rubber Rings - 1 1/2 Inch I.D. Red 1
Misc - Post Cap Lt. Blue 2
Misc - Post Cap Red 2
Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch O.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 2 3/4 Inch I.D. Red 2

On my list for this weekend to install these.

#5884 7 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Did you go with the same kit?

Just the sizes. I went all black on color.

#5891 7 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Tell me how it works out and if its a complete kit

I ordered a full Universal kit and then supplemented what wasn't included.

Here's what I just took off of my JP. I went back with the same, except where noted.
(2) 2 3/4"
(4) 1 1/4" - 2 of these I went back with 1 1/2" cause they were wayy to tight IMO
(1) 1"
(2) 3/4"
(5) 3/16"
(3) 3/8" OD
(4) post 1/2 DE
(4) post standard
(3) flippers

So it looks like I didn't use (5) of the post 1/2 DE and (1) of the 3/4" that's in the kit mentioned. I ordered the acorns but, ended up putting nuts back on those posts. Not sure where I missed the other 5 rings and 1 ring? I'll do another scan of my floor and make sure some didn't fall off of the table...

#5896 7 months ago

I have a barely used Static Gate Mod - fully working, great cosmetically, $150 shipped
static gate (resized).JPG

Used set of (3) JP Cliffys - sold

I'm in need of the following items shown below if you would like to trade + cash. Or if you have any of these for sale
plastics needed (resized).JPG

Paypal F&F or Zelle. Thanks

Added 7 months ago:

Items sold.

#5897 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, my new JP paint scheme is underway. When I bought the pin it already had safety yellow legs, so I decided to do the same with the backbox supports, side rails, and lockbar. I'm also going to do the side rails in a caution patter theme (angled alternating yellow and black stripes). I'm debating whether or not to keep the lockbar all yellow or to do a caution pattern on it also (may be too much).
After reading as much as I could about using painting pinball parts, I decided I'd give things a try with spray enamel instead of going to the expense of powder coating (only negative I could find was potential lockbar wear, but not really concerned given home use pin). This way I could do it myself all for around $30 all in (paint, tape, mounting tape for side rails, lockbar weather stripping, etc.) Anyway, started with a light sand of parts, 2 coats of double cover gray primer, and 2 coats of safety yellow on inside of parts (where I am so far). I'll do 3 coats of yellow on the outside, tape off and paint my stripes on side rails with 2 coats black, and then everything will get 3 coats of double cover satin clear on top. Taking my time with paint, and if things go to plan I should have everything fully cured and ready to install in about a week or so.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

get those crappy plastic leg protectors off. go with the metal ones. https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html much better. won't cause any scrapping issues and can't be seen

#5900 7 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Picked up a playfield protector for one of these. Any big hiccups installing these, other than the PITA that is removing that ramp?

what's the point of a PF protector? JP really doesn't see much wear besides the scoops. I can't think of an example I've seen that's shown PF wear except for the scoops which can be protected by Cliffys. IMO - save your effort for something else. Adjusting the switches alone makes putting on a protector a hard sell in my book.

The ramp is easy peasy to remove. Nice heavy plastic makes it pretty durable to any twisting or whatever you need to do to get it out.

#5995 7 months ago

sooo JP god's... I just finished shopping out my JP and bringing it back to factory (except for the captive ball which I did keep as the white ball) and my poor PF holes that were covered by cliffy's but I got tired of get cliffied on so many shots so I ripped them off.

BUT i've got a 3/4" metal hex spacer, double female, that was in my parts bucket and I purchased a new one from Terry and now I can't figure out where it goes... metal hex spacer = tall 6 sided spacer/post/thingy that screws into a PF post and has a screw go into the top of it.

anything?

#5997 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

HA.. I have all my playfield parts laying out on my guest room bed and I have only one hex spacer. Is it the one that goes over the top hole on the left sling plastic and holds up the left ramp? I believe there is only one in the game but that one is longer than 3/4".

It is a 1 1/4”
I used (3) 1 1/4” but needed 4. 2 for the clear plastic above the VUK on the right. 1 for the left ramp support over the left slingshot. And 1 for the top right corner behind the flasher. It doesn’t hold anything but I’m assuming it’s there to act as a way to keep balls from getting trapped behind the flasher.
There is also a 3” (?) hex that holds the clear left ramp in the middle upstream of the diverter.

#5999 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hum... ahhh ha, yes the VUK ones I see are with that plastic, doh. Not seeing the one that goes under the top right flasher, weird. I wish the JP manual had these parts and locations, I am getting spoiled with the JJP manuals.

Maybe an on route mod? IDK

5B411DAE-3062-489E-87BE-3A8E335578D6 (resized).jpeg

#6001 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

My plastics were all cracked and screws missing, so hard for me to say what was there, but I am fairly sure I didn't remove one there. And I realized the ones for the clear plastic by the VUK are still attached to the clear light dome, heh. I still don't see one for the ramp support, should be interesting when I put it back together.

Here’s the 3” (?) I’m referring to. I’d say it’s necessary as it’s the only support between the top and bottom of the ramp. image (resized).jpg

I didn’t take great tear down pics - obviously. But I can upload what I’ve got if you need them for reassembley of yours.

#6005 7 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

How about this one? It is a ball trap preventer next to one of the pop bumpers.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Ding ding ding. We have a winner. Of course now it’s obvious in my pics.

Now I noticed that I’m missing that clear star/jewel post at the front... ugh

#6138 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

The stun gun is now making even more sense with the "Thumper Ready" callout.

I’ve spent the last 20 years owning this pin never being able to understand what he’s says it’s “&:$/9dhdi ready” in my mind. Thumper makes sense

#6207 6 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've seen mention that Cliffy protectors make the hole shots more difficult. I realized I installed the protectors almost immediately after buying JP, so I've not really played without them. The other day I was playing, and I notice most of my shots to the holes end up unsuccessful and I never get through system shutdown. Getting through tri-ball into Chaos multi-ball is pretty difficult for me since often times a seemingly spot-on shot bounces back from the hole.
Anyone do any significant comparisons with and without Cliffy's?
Anyone without Cliffy's have frequent bounce back?
A change I just made was to remove Titan post rubbers and went back to Cliffy posts. Direct hits to the Titan posts send the ball flying into the air. This doesn't happen to the stiffer Cliffy posts. I haven't browsed Titan's offerings lately, so no clue if they now offer firmer posts than what I had. My Titan's were from when the company started offering the competition silicone line.

18+ years I played JP w/o cliffy's. joined pinside. put cliffy's on. immediately started hating playing my all time favorite pin. it became so difficult. It took me about 1 year (100ish) plays to realize what had happened. The cliffy's had made the game too hard to play. The control room shot starts just about everything except multi-ball. It should be relatively easy to hit. Cliffy's make that hole just a few mm larger than a pinball diameter.

I have come around to the idea that Cliffy's aren't actually there to protect but to cover up damage already done.

My holes are already blown out so what's a little more wear? Realistically, the 100-300 (at most) plays/yr a home environment pin sees is nothing compared to what it was built to do.

The products are awesome, fit great, do their job, don't move, etc. etc. but on JP the holes just end up too small IMO.

#6240 6 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Has anybody put shorter legs on or know of some that would work?
My JP is a about 2" taller than my LWJP next to it.
Also trying to get the pitch to 6.5 I feel like I have to crank the rear levelers up way higher than I should have to, the previous owner put some red legs on the front but they are 28.5", same as the rear.

The 28.5" are the correct length. You could put new Stern legs on the back which are 30.5". My back levelers are way up. Probably 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" of the 3" leveler is sticking out of the leg.

3 weeks later
#6468 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Crap.. I'm missing a wire. Can someone look and see where this wire connects?
It's a yellow/blue wire coming down through the playfield with all of the ramp/gate wires. I believe it is paired in the same tubing as the red/blue wire. I had to cut these to remove them and I don't see where the yellow/blue was cut off. I have all of the other wire pieces there to pair up. I think I see a yellow/blue on the little junction board where the other yellow & red wires go but not sure why I don't have a cut off end.
[quoted image]
- Edit... I connected the yellow/blue to what I thought was yellow/blue on the junction board but I am not getting lights.

Maybe this will help?

Be careful there are some yellow/blacks that look a lot like yellow/blue with old dust on them or if you’re wearing your beer goggles on a Saturday night.

F7F6A059-FF47-403E-87C2-925F1A802CDC (resized).jpegD602D7D1-A9A6-40D3-B59F-3DF7253FAAFF (resized).jpeg9B663A7D-3ED3-46B5-9DE6-F9331F6AD5AE (resized).jpeg49788FB0-1569-49B1-9E3B-9762C5F8CBD7 (resized).jpeg12755FDC-6AF3-45DA-BD98-A48441DE470B (resized).jpeg

I left my pf up if you need some more pics just holla

1 week later
#6542 5 months ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

I also added a few pics of the instruction cards that I had mentioned.

those are pretty good looking. homemade?

#6548 5 months ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

No, there's a vendor in Washington State that was making them for JP and several other games, but the name escapes me right now. If I can find their link, I'll post it up.

What does he charge for them?

1 month later
#6780 4 months ago
Quoted from spent85:

Hi everyone,
I did some forum searches but came up empty so hoping someone can help me out. My friend and I have been slowly and surely shopping a DE JP machine. We are finally to the point of getting the rubbers changed after doing a playfield teardown and cleanup. The issue is, I took off most rubbers when cleaning, assuming I could use the diagram to put them back later.
I have now discovered that it's well known this diagram is wrong! So I have been working through putting back what I can at least, bumpers, flippers, etc. I was hoping that someone had made an updated document that showed all proper placements? Most advice I see suggests just looking at playfield pictures, which I can do but some of the rubbers seem hidden or hard to see and I'm worried about missing stuff!
Thanks for any and all help everyone. We are excited to finally get this bad boy going, it's been a slow rebuilt of about a year and a half!

This has been discussed a lot on here. My recent adventure was chronicled here.

Quoted from ypurchn:

I ordered a full Universal kit and then supplemented what wasn't included.
Here's what I just took off of my JP. I went back with the same, except where noted.
(2) 2 3/4"
(4) 1 1/4" - 2 of these I went back with 1 1/2" cause they were wayy to tight IMO
(1) 1"
(2) 3/4"
(5) 3/16"
(3) 3/8" OD
(4) post 1/2 DE
(4) post standard
(3) flippers
So it looks like I didn't use (5) of the post 1/2 DE and (1) of the 3/4" that's in the kit mentioned. I ordered the acorns but, ended up putting nuts back on those posts. Not sure where I missed the other 5 rings and 1 ring? I'll do another scan of my floor and make sure some didn't fall off of the table...

#6789 4 months ago
Quoted from koops:

How much play should the gear box have?

I’ve stripped down my trex mech to see if I could figure out its issue with always overshooting the middle 90% of the time on the second pass
I’m planning on replacing the center switch as the roller is worn and has slack on it.
As the gear box seems to have enough play that by the time it stops and goes back the other way it is already out again so never lands on the center switch on its own.

so I've never done your test as setup. or with the plate in a vice or mounted bracket which would allow us to see true slop cause your left hand is naturally going to do some work to counter those forces BUT from a purely mechanical perspective this looks reasonable and should be within what can be tolerated. the center switch is decently generous.

have you updated code to something other than 5.0x? I know they changed the programming to make power on/off rather than steady power. this could have a small impact on the issue you're seeing

BUT at this point, you've done 75% of the work, go ahead and replace anything you can to save you the hassle in the future. with that being said, don't forget the 80/20 rule. 80% of the work can be done in 20% of the time, it's the remaining 20% that takes up 80% of your time.

3 weeks later
#6937 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

And here is my newest decal mod - coin reject decals. daditude showed me something similar out there, but not for the original JP. This version matches my other caution themed decals (coin door & apron art - not to mention the paint scheme on my rails). Cost is $10 for the set of 2 which includes US postage. As always, please PM me if interested in purchasing.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

you got any of the coin reject inserts you show in the pics?

1 week later
#6987 3 months ago

mr_tantrum since you don’t run a Pinside store. Where can I get a list of everything you offer for JP? I feel like you’re just blowing up this thread and I can’t keep track

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