(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

57 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#30 5 years ago
Quoted from warpin:

Got a JP a few months back and thought I had everything working as it should until today.... T-Rex's mouth stopped closing. When I pulled it apart I found the coil plunger and the linkage that goes to his jaw laying an the base and the spring was below the playfield in the ball trough.
So.. does anybody know what hardware is used to attach T-REX's mouth to the linkage. Also the linkage has a lot of wear and almost looks like a piece is broken?

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It doesn't look broken to me. That little nub is supposed to stick into the hole there in the side of the jaw. The jaw might just have had too much lateral play and the hook nub came out. You can use small washers as spacers to tighten up the lateral movement in the jaw.

Here's an example of a stripped down T-REX (with a different jaw, but same principle) for my mod I'm working on:

http://forum-s3.pinside.com/201311/1247531/154049.jpg

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from warpin:

Thanks for the info winteriscoming, your mod looks like quite the project! Please share the pics when it is complete!
I can't seem to get that tab through the hole, the tab does not seem long enough, and where the tab should be angled (?) or start to angle it appears worn or missing? I was going to bend the tab to get it through the hole but it just does not seem right?

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Take a pic from the side. It's hard to tell, but it may be worn down too much. It doesn't stick out much further than the width of the metal in the jaw for me. If your bending doesn't seem to fix it, or if you can't figure out another fix, there are replacement T-REX links available. They aren't cheap, though: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=579

If you've got access to a welder or know someone who does, a bit could probably be welded onto it.

#34 5 years ago
Quoted from warpin:

I have not tried to bend it yet, wanted to know what it is supposed to look like before bending or modifying. It just does not appear there is enough "meat" currently on the tab that it would be a solid repair by just bending it. But I will find out soon. Thanks again winteriscoming!

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Yeah, it's definitely broken. Sorry, couldn't tell in the earlier pictures. The nub should be sticking out more at a right angle. You might get away with bending it out some more, but you'll end up shortening the jaw movement slightly, so I'm not sure if that would keep it from picking up the ball. You may need to file some of the top away to get a longer tab that you can bend down. I don't have mine apart at the moment, or I'd get some pics for you.

#53 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

When it rolls over it properly, it does click. It's as if the switch is providing too much resistance and the ball isn't heavy enough to depress it sometimes.

If you manually push the arm of the switch down, does it go all the way down? Does it do so without too much resistance? I guess you can compare it to the next one in the line. I'm wondering if the arm is bent up too much.

#65 5 years ago

So after putting a bit of time in on my newly acquired Hook, I'm now familiar with a feature that I really wish JP had: a left outlane kickback coil.

I tend to lose way more balls to the left outlane than to the right due to the opening being larger since the other side has a mini post. Seems like a kickback would really save the day. Oh well, just the dreams of a terrible JP player...

#67 5 years ago
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:

You can add a post there. There is a mark for one. I added one to improve the game play, but also to protect that plastic behind it.

Yeah, I see the dimple for it. I guess I feel like adding one in would be considered damaging the playfield. I'd have to check, but isn't there a dimple for a center post, too?

#70 5 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

That's just part of Jurassic Park, glass smashing outrage from a left outlane drain!
Seriously though, doesn't that shit piss you off!

I swear, I sometimes just want to put a rubber band across the left outlane and close it off!

#82 5 years ago
Quoted from harbngr:

Quick question.
Anyone know the story on why thee is no Sam Jackson on any of the art? Is it the same story as Apollo 13 and Tom Hanks?
Would have wanted at least some call out s or something.

Not sure, but there is a callout that says, "Hold on to your butt!" I'm not sure when it it says it during the game. I'm thinking there might be a couple other callouts from the character.

#84 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

What am I missing here?IMAG0589.jpg 216 KB

I think it just needs a regular screw there. Sometimes the things previous owners did on my games makes me scratch my head or want to punch them in the face.

#88 5 years ago

Really? Others have that there? Not sure if mine came that way. I don't see how a ball would get up there, though.

1 month later
#127 5 years ago
Quoted from Meph:

It is missing the topper so I will need to find one for it.

Make sure you have clearance or you'll be dissapointed. Luckily mine came with one, but the ceiling in my basement is too low...

1 month later
#148 5 years ago
Quoted from smoke:

me again.....
....any of you guys hoarding spare parts?....pulled mine down for cleaning and waxing and found my upper plastic behind the right upper flipper is cracked..... ping me if you have one to let go, ebay was dry.
peace, B.

I think your best bet is to buy some plexiglass and DIY a "protector" to go under the cracked plastic. My dino collar that goes around the T-REX was cracked in two and doing this made it whole.

4 months later
#231 5 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Looks like you're missing the small support brackets that DE used.
You can get replacements, or even use the larger B/W or Stern style from here:
http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm
RM

JP is supposed to have support brackets from the factory!? Where are they supposed to be? I don't think mine has them either. I see the DE style on that link. Interesting...

Edit: Here's a high-res pic of the underside of the JP playfield. I see the brackets about half way down the first light bank PCB close to the edges.
http://remote.kiwi.gen.nz/JP2/jpUnderPlayfield.jpg

#234 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Thanks Russ, I sent them an email, cause there was no apparent webshop. Would be great to have some brackets, so it wont be so hard on the VUK coil

They're apparently available at Marco's: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0005-00

#236 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

True. Although Marco sells them for 19.95 $ for each it seems, while from mantis it was 20 $ for the pair.

Ah, much better price then! I was probably going to continue to live without them at 40 for a pair...

I can't tell for sure from the under playfield pics, but are they secured with bolts coming down through the top of the pf to the bottom and nuts are on the bottom?

I just checked my pf and I don't see holes or threaded rods sticking through that would have secured supports had they been installed at the factory. I do see a few dimples around the area I think the supports are supposed to be, but no idea if they were for screwing in supports.

#237 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Not much to see yet, but below is some small pics of before cleaning and after a quick initial cleaning:

I notice your t-rex doesn't have a front in the pic you posted. Is it just removed for cleaning?

Would you be willing to post a close-up of the very bottom front of the t-rex without the front piece installed? I've removed mine so many times I can't remember how the horizontal spring at the bottom is supposed to be installed.

#240 5 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

Just took mine apart for cleaning hope the photos help.

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Thanks! I could be wrong, but I don't think the spring arm on the left is supposed to be bent to the left. I think it's supposed to be straight up. I'm making sure my T-rex mod accommodates for the standard position and my spring arm isn't bent that way. How does it look for others?

#241 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Between the pic you posted and the pic on Mantis' website, it looks like there's two possible locations that they were installed. It also looks like they were just screwed in from the bottom, which is apparently why they always just ripped off. Thanks Russ for posting that link, I don't think mine has brackets either.

That pic on Mantis' site isn't JP, is it? The pcb looks different.

Also, looking more at the one I posted, I think it's one nut and one screw. When I was looking at my pf, I noticed the only threaded rod sticking through that seemed long enough to do anything with from underneath was coming down through a t-nut. It might be one of the outlane guide posts or something coming down through the t-nuts on either side. That makes me think they might be pretty secure on JP, even with stock ones, but would maybe have to be removed when removing top-side hardware and got discarded at some point.

jp - support bracket.png

Edit: Just checked again and I'm pretty certain my assumption above is correct. I see screw holes by the t-nuts on either side. I forgot to note what component from the top side is coming down through the pf, though.

#243 5 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

This game was really bad when I got it. I took the spring and bent it to make it straighter. It does not interfere with anything.

It'll interfere with the improved t-rex mod!

Honestly, though, I can't remember how it was when I took my t-rex apart. I can't figure what it's doing other than giving the mech more resistance when going down and a little help when going up. I definitely installed it incorrectly in my latest tests to where the arm on the left was inside the frame, so the spring wasn't doing anything, and the t-rex still works fine...

#249 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Couple regular old screws in mine.

IMAG1110.jpg 154 KB

I'm no expert, but I don't think yours are in the factory installed position. Yours is facing a different way and it's right next to the t-nut with the threaded rod coming through that it would have gone over and attached to with a nut, and there's a screw hole right on the bottom outer edge of the t-nut where the screw would go. If it works, it works. Wish mine had some when I paid a fortune for the game!

#256 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

The t-nut you see there is being used by the lane guide screw, so unless that's a dual purpose screw, I don't think it's meant for this.

It think it is dual purpose based on that pic I linked to. That's my only evidence though, well and the fact that I seem to have empty screw holes right on the outside of both of those t-nuts on mine.

The mantis ones would still probably work in the stock position with the additional screws on the side. One of these days I'll make that investement. I haven't screwed up my game yet without them, back when I was blissfully ignorant that supports were supposed to be there!

2 weeks later
#287 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

So, I recieved the new DE brackets from Mantis and tried to find a place to connect them. Apparently there has been something fastened before, but it seems that they have been removed and the pf wood has started breaking up. Through the T-nut the screw going from the plastic beneath slingshot is supposed to go It seems.
This is how it looks on mine, anyone have any idea how to fasten the brackets with the current situation? Im afraid Ill start breaking the pf even more If I jam new screws in..

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The t-nuts are supposed to have long bolts coming down through them from the lane guide I think. Is the top-side not populated? Those would go in one hole on the bracket and then get a nut to hold in place. Your mangled holes are where the wood screw would go in the original bracket. You could use wood glue and toothpicks to build the holes back up and give the screws something to bite into. The Mantis ones allow two extra screws out to the sides, and I would think you should maybe pre-drill (don't go through the pf!) before driving new screws in.

#295 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Hey Everyone,
It's been a while since I've asked so I'm checking in once again to see if anyone has either a stripped JP playfield for sale (any condition) or the ability to provide high resolution scans of theirs. I would consider paying for the scan.
I am looking to completely rework the entire JP art package from top to bottom. Although I love the pin, I can't stand the pf line art, plastics etc... With Jim's new T-Rex, Chad's code update and adding a DMD Extender with large colour LCD/LED display to the backbox, it's time for the rest of the pin to match.
I have tried using the artwork from the visual pinball table. Angle is off and the quality is poor.
Having the scan would allow me to work on creating the new pf artwork but Ideally I would like to find a second pf so that I can sand one down (it or mine) to create a new bare wood scan to recreate the pf in CAD and complete the artwork in illustrator.
It is an ambitious project but I would like to proceed. If anyone is interested in assisting we could discuss the project.
Have a look at the LAH pf ticket that I've completed to get an idea of quality and commitment.
Thanks.

I don't know if he still has it but arakissun had a pf listed for a while in his parts for sale thread.

You're already taking your game apart, right? Would it be more feasible for you to strip your existing pf down and scan it yourself? HP Scanjet 4600s (might be similar models, but don't know off-hand) can be had for relatively cheap and are perfect for scanning and stitching pfs.

1 month later
#317 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

is it normal that the raptor coils "locks on" for a second or two, before retracting, as if it is testing itself?

As far I can figure the game doesn't have a way of self testing the raptor kick-back. There aren't any limit switches like it uses on the T-Rex left/right/center and up/down. For that matter, even though the T-rex chomps during the initial test, I don't think the game has a way of knowing if that's working either.

2 weeks later
#344 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

any one have the xpin white dmd with the green filter? wondering how it looks.

At this point for JP you can't beat an LCD with DMD Extender. It doesn't require too much work to install and would be cheaper than an LED display. I highly recommend it.

1 week later
#356 5 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Great, thanks for confirming the ramp switch theory. That gives me a great starting point And no, you're definitely not nuts.. haha.
Can't wait to get it fixed and get playing it a bunch! One of my favorites.
---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
Kits, upgrades and test equipment for pinball machines

Mine was doing that semi-frequently. I think the culprit was bad trough switches.

#359 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Mine was doing that semi-frequently. I think the culprit was bad trough switches.

Actually I remember now, it was that the diodes for some of the trough switches had been pressed up against some metal and I think it was causing a short, so that would make sense in light of Chad's response (trough #4 maybe). I think the diodes had been bent when I was servicing it at one point and hit those switches against the cabinet or something when I was putting the pf back down.

#365 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one ever take the backbox off of theirs? How bad was it? From the looks of the backbox pics online, it looks like there are quite a few connectors to disconnect to get it off.

I usually take heads off to move games in and out of my basement. I don't recall JP being any more complex than others I've done. If I recall correctly the connectors are all keyed, so it's not too difficult figuring out where things go. Sure, pictures are a good idea, but it might also be a good idea to label the connectors if you have the time.

I like that it has the latch lock in the back. That made it easier to put the head back on without any help. Just line up that lock from the back, lock it and then reattach the hinges before doing wiring.

1 week later
#376 5 years ago

Almost the entire time I've had JP, I almost never got triball before ball 3. One particularly difficult dino target was the triceratops one because the front blade that has the plastic target riveted on would kind of rotate by getting bashed from the side to where it would bind on the bracket behind the switch, thus rarely making contact. I've been tuning up my game in preparation for bringing it to an expo and noticed a few of the other switches were loose, too. I took them out from under the playfield and tightended up the screws in the switch stacks. These targets are much easier to hit now and I'm often getting triball on ball 1, but at least by ball 2 most times.

Anyway, thought I'd mention it in case anyone else has issues with their dino targets.

#379 4 years ago

One thing I wish was a little different in this game is the wireform that goes horizontally across the playfield. The ball comes flying off of that a lot on my game. I wish it had been built up as a full pipe like it is at the end when it drops out, so the ball can't come flying off...

Are there any remedies for this issue?

#381 4 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

I am years away on the waiting list for the new version

Not years! Maybe a year... If I'm still producing the improved t-rex a couple of years from now, I'll die of boredom...

I suggest scuffing it up, spraying with some kind of primer that says it's for plastics and then just paint with cheap acrylics. You'll have leftover for touch-ups as needed.

2 weeks later
#388 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I am seriously having a hard time finding how to contact him on his site. Thanks though.

The scoop light mod is made by Pinsider accidental.

1 week later
#402 4 years ago
Quoted from Jared:

Has anyone bought or installed these?
ebay.com link » Jurassic Park Blade Skins Graphics Decals
Any installed pics?

My feedback was apparently ignored in the thread where the person had made these and was showing them. Personally, they don't look good enough for me want to put in my machine. It's the same clip-art looking palm tree pasted all over (somehow blowing in different directions) and the same cut and paste dinos repeated. I'm all for silhouettes, but for the price it seems like these could be drawn better without too much additional effort.

Here's the original thread with pics in the first post (though Congo side-art and not the custom JP ones): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-inner-art-decals

#408 4 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Not exactly the same but maybe even cooler, from Creature from the Black Lagoon:
ebay.com link » Like

I guess that is a little better, but I still notice that it's the same cut-and-paste images repeated over and over... just seems very lazy and amateurish. How hard is it to make some variation in palm tree silhouettes?

#413 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

Hey guys I'd like to design something better! I no longer have my JP so I'll need to visit a friend to measure up his game.
I'll post my progress for you to give feedback on over the coming weeks

Are you thinking sunset silhouettes or something else? Electric fences and dino pens could be cool, but there's the challenge of integrating any new images into the existing art package which already isn't as great as it ideally would have been.

#415 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I think that a sunset/nighttime look would suit the theme the best. It would also make it a lot easier to add in references to elements of the film without having to illustrate them to match the rest of the illustration, or worry about copyright infringement.
I'm not an illustrator so I'll be sourcing artwork from stock and adding traced elements from other film material.

Sounds good to me. I'd personally like to see each side being unique rather than mirrored...

Even with a silhouette, an electric fence could potentially be worked into a separate colored layer...

It could be kind of like the playfield is the path between two electric fences with whatever scenery going on behind.

http://img3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20111103234347/jurassicpark/images/thumb/3/39/JPTRexPaddock.png/1000px-JPTRexPaddock.png

#419 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I think that a sunset/nighttime look would suit the theme the best. It would also make it a lot easier to add in references to elements of the film without having to illustrate them to match the rest of the illustration, or worry about copyright infringement.
I'm not an illustrator so I'll be sourcing artwork from stock and adding traced elements from other film material.

I think I started typing this, but didn't post it: An argument could be made for illusrated side art as a continuation of the image along the back of the pf. I don't know that anything would have to be presented in a way that would violate the IP if it's mainly similar looking scenery with generic elements. I'd potentially be interested in collaborating on something to that end.

2 weeks later
#467 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Why do i have trouble with the easiest thing? How do I fix this? The cliffy is all the way on, no gaps, no movement. I pulled the scoop/subway to see if I could adjust it but no go. Any ideas?
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

The scoop assembly is supposed to be unscrewed from underneath, moved back a bit to where you have to make new holes when screwing it back in.

There are directions on the Cliffy site:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/jp.htm

1 month later
#538 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Morning bump....that bad huh?

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Morning bump....that bad huh?

Might be worth checking your diodes. Are all of those with ghosting in the same row or column? Does the ghosting go away if the mod is unplugged?

2 weeks later
#545 4 years ago
Quoted from BigBangBack:

I am having a weird, but small issue with my T-Rex. He goes left and right no problem, and even picks up and swallows the ball without issue. However, after he eats the ball, he'll drop a second time to eat a ball, even though its not there.Sometimes he'll randomly drop, even when he's not centered. He always comes back up, but I just thought it was weird.
I recently adjusted the top switch on TRex so he'd go all the back to help swallow the ball. Is that causing him to double dip?

If the up switch isn't reliably registering, the t-rex will go back down.

2 weeks later
#554 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

They are currently selling the Jeeps though. They're promoted under Jurassic World, but look just like the Jeeps from Jurassic Park.
http://amzn.to/1FW3q8C

Spoiler alert! Don't look at that page or you'll likely see a toy of the freakin' hybrid dino that they specifically don't show in the trailer for Jurassic World...

1 week later
#615 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Switch 59 would be underneath the playfield inside the plastic trough that leads away from the T-Rex.

Do you know off hand if that switch even does anything?

The scoring would be based off of the saucer in front of the t-rex, the game would know the ball was picked up based on the saucer, and it knows to eject the ball from the subway based on the VUK switch... an eaten ball doesn't roll over the control room switch in the subway, right?

#619 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Looks like the only thing that switch really does is score 250,000 points. Nothing more.

Interesting. So you lose out on points if the t-rex fumbles the ball...

#625 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I always get balls hung up in the weirdest places on my machines. Look at this doozy. Just right as to not set the switch off, LOL.
image.jpg

Ha, if you still had a third ball in play, that could make for some easy points.

Is it considered cheating to prolong a multiball mode when there's a trapped ball?

Before I made adjustments, there were times when I would start tri-ball with the t-rex, but the ball would stay in its mouth instead of falling into the subway. That made it much easier.

#630 4 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Use the following URL to order your pinball ROMS from 'That Pinball Place' which is John Wart's web site.
Pinball ROM Store
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/index.htm
Data East/Stern/Sega Pinball ROMS
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/de.html
His prices are very reasonable and he ships right away. I have ordered pinball ROMS from him many times and have never been disappointed with the ROMS or the service.
Gord

If you buy that many roms, you're likely better off buying a burner and UV eraser. I've never regretted buying mine and I've been able to upgrade my pins and drop in modified roms such as freeplay ones on classic Sterns. Upgrading JP was one of the first things I did when buying it.

By the way, I'd be surprised to learn that the sound roms were ever updated. I could be wrong, but don't know if those got any updates on most pins.

#634 4 years ago
Quoted from smerff:

SL747277.jpg SL747278.jpg SL747287.jpg SL747288.jpg SL747289.jpg

Interesting! My original plan for the t-rex mod was to make a rubber skin that would fit over it.

I haven't tried it, but the top teeth I've made for my mod might work with the original t-rex shell...

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Speaking of you and your T-Rex, what's the wait list look like? Not that I want to spend that much right now, since it will probably be the last thing I do to my machine, after restoring it. But it does look nice, and would like to eventually get one. Figured if it may take you a year to get through your current list, I might be interested in getting my name on there. But if it will take 3 months, then I'll just hold off until I'm ready.

I don't want to take over this thread with my mod. It might be better to discuss in the t-rex mod thread.

1 week later
#693 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

My recommendation is Cool White and let the natural colors of the Scoop Mod shine through. That's how I did it.

Did you get some anti-ghosting kind? I have all cheap Ablaze LEDs in mine, and the the scoop light and other lamps raised from the PF are some of the worst offenders for ghosting. I changed those back to incandescent before the expo I brought my game to a few months ago. I thought incandescent looked fine with the scoop light mod.

#695 4 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

That is good to know. It sounds like the anti-ghosting LED's may be the way to go then.

Most of the inserts are fine with the cheap ones. There is some minor ghosting in a few. One of these days I'll make a note of which inserts need to be upgraded. Otherwise the cheap single LED Ablaze ones are great. Can't remember the exact price off hand, but filling out this game was maybe $40 from Pinball Life. I used all cool whites. Maybe LED aficionados would think mine looks like crap...

#712 4 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

thanks guys, It has perfect topper. The thing is really nice. If it did not have the small paint chip on t-rex lower jaw then it would be out of box nice. It really is insane. Everybody that comes over thinks its brand new.

NOS lower jaws are available. It's just held onto the jaw frame with a rivet.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-JP535-6641-00

2 weeks later
#805 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I kinda like the orange monotone color. If they were to do a Color DMD, I'd want it to be simple. Very minimal use of color. 3-4 different colors tops. I've seen some where they use every primary color. Looked too much like a childrens coloring book. But if they could do very subtle tones, I'd be all for it.

For that you can just do DMD Extender. I have my JP set up for 4 colors.

Having said that, I'd prefer full colorization.

#808 4 years ago
Quoted from smerff:

ebay.com link » Jurassic Park Data East Sega Pinball Flipper Cushioned Armour Mod 3 Piece Set
These are cool

Why would you want a JP3 icon on your flippers?

#813 4 years ago
Quoted from hawk370:

20150801_194800.jpg
My machine is missing a bumper post above the lane divider(can be seen in the picture) i need to know what it looks like and where to get one. hopefully it is one that is easily obtainable. also what type screw holds down the post?
Thanks in advance for any help, Mike

Quoted from dontfeed:

Should just be a mini post and 3/8" rubber just like on the right side. At least that's what I have.

There isn't one installed there from the factory AFAIK, just a dimple if you want to put one. I would almost consider that to be devaluing the game because you'll be driving a new hole into the pf that will be there even if a future owner decides to remove the post.

Someone suggested in an earlier post putting a small rubber on the outlane post there if left drains are driving you crazy.

#820 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I was hoping to get to current Stern slingshottyness. But its not happening. Not sure what the difference would be. Like I said, pretty much everything except for the coil is new. Maybe the coils just aren't that powerful?

There's a setting for coil strength somewhere in the menus, maybe the adjustments menu. Check it out and see if its on a low setting.

1 month later
#888 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffpm:

I'm having some issues with my T-Rex mech. Initially, the side to side movement didn't work so I ended up disabling it and was fine with the up and down. Last week I decided to pop the hood and troubleshoot what was wrong. All the switches test fine. I unscrewed the motor and ran it in test, seems to move in both directions fine. I can hear the relay popping when I change directions. The one thing I noticed is that with the playfield up, gravity causes the T-Rex to slide to the left. I can manually move him back into the center position but then he slides over again. Now, when I play a game, closing his mouth causes T-Rex to slide over to the right, and eventually he moves enough that the center switch is no longer activated.
Does anybody know what's going on here? Should the T-Rex move so freely? Did I strip the gears? What can I do to keep him in the center position during gameplay?

There is some play in the left/right movement on mine. You might be able to get it to stay centered with a rubber band around the post that goes in the track and his the switches. Wrap it around that post and the center switch?

1 week later
#907 4 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

*Remembered that I had pics earlier in the thread and edited them for the target. You can't tell too much from these though.

It might be the wrong color, but looks like the correct size to me. I recently ordered target faces from Marco for a project I'm working on and I only saw those deep kinds in the slim rectangle like many of the targets on JP, or the larger square like what's on the dilophosaurus targets.

#915 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I do quite like the DE targets on JP, though. Having a design that basically hides the target mechanism makes for a better looking game in my opinion, particularly for targets that the player looks at side-on.

I agree. I like the style. I'm using them in a custom pin project.

#928 4 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

5) The T-Rex is fine mechanically and in really good condition. However it lowers its head to eat phantom balls when the multi-ball fails (i.e. often). Obviously this is really bad as a ball strike could ruin it cosmetically and possibly mechanically as well.

It's likely that your t-rex is fine. It will attempt to eat a ball during ball search which is likely happening because you have trough switch issues and your game is losing track of balls.

#930 4 years ago
#968 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

If you own a Jurassic Park and an EPROM programmer and you would like to patch your own personal game then go here:

Congratulations on finding a way to release the code!

Everyone should give it a try. I especially like the random starting mode. No more go go go go go every game!

For anyone looking into DIY burning, the GQ-4X is a very capable programmer that has taken anything I have thrown at it. You'll also need a UV eraser to erase EPROMS.

#1035 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Anyone else completely obsessed with this pin as much as I am? heh. No. Okay.

I might qualify as obsessed!

I've devoted so much time to the improved t-rex that sometimes I need to take breaks from the game, but I always love it when I play again.

#1100 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

The last two times I have heard the CHAOS mode callout, I have used the smart missile. After all of the balls drain, I see the dinosaur walking across the DMD that you shoot...then it says something about a victory mode and shooting the ramp. That mode has a countdown that usually gets to about 10 seconds left before it finally kicks out a ball for me to shoot with the gun/plunger. I've never had any issues with the game not recognizing that there are no balls in play, other than these two instances. Before installing the new code, I only got to Chaos mode a few times, but none ever had this odd sequence after I had drained all of the balls during Chaos mode. Any idea what's going on here?

Hmm, are your trough switches registering reliably? Are all other multi-ball modes working correctly, registering drained balls and returning them when ball saver is still on?

#1108 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Is it that the rubbers are too bouncy? Should I install standard post rubber there?

I installed Cliffy posts when I had mine and didn't have any issues. I changed over to Titan silicone post sleeves and it's airball city! I might revert back. I think it has to do with the bounciness. The Cliffy's are firmer than even black rubber as far as I can tell.

#1144 4 years ago
Quoted from gamera9:

Have the new code and t rex does not eat the ball any more. Is there something i need to change?

I wouldn't think the new code is the issue. It doesn't impact the normal operation of the t-rex.

Does your t-rex still work in manual diagnostic mode? Left, right, center, up and down? Maybe you have an issue with left/right and previously had it turned off and now it defaults to on and isn't passing self diagnostics so is being deactivated?

#1149 4 years ago

Just for the sake of clarity, there are 2 types of diagnostics for the t-rex. I'm not sure on the official terms.

1. Self diagnostics - this is what the game does when you first turn it on and the t-rex moves around. I believe if this test doesn't result in all the t-rex switches getting activated, the game will automatically deactivate the t-rex. Not sure if partial deactivation or full deactivation. I haven't had issues where it has failed so I'm not 100% on the consequences of failing. If you have left/right turned off, it won't check for that in self diagnostics, which is one suggestion for how it might have worked before, but doesn't now.

2. Manual diagnostics - this is where you go into the test menu and get to the t-rex screen where it lets you manually control the t-rex to make sure everything works. In some other menus you can turn off left/right motion. You can also disable the t-rex altogether, but I wouldn't think you would end up deactivated by default with the new roms.

I can't offer any advice if the t-rex isn't verified working, regardless of whether or not it worked with old roms.

#1151 4 years ago

Does it move around in self diagnostics when the game is turned on?

#1156 4 years ago
Quoted from gamera9:

It moves around in diagnostics when the game is turned on and it is not doing a ball search

Hmm, but is it going to both sides and then does it bend down and chomp in the center? It should be doing all of that during the self diagnostics.

The other thing that can impact the t-rex is the saucer switch. Is it registering reliably when a ball is in it?

I agree that you might try factory defaults in case some garbage ended up in memory during the rom swap. Not sure if that can happen, but factory reset would clear it up if so.

#1186 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I was poking around my JP this weekend to replace the PS board and address audio hum issues. When I removed the DMD front panel assy, I noticed a paper label fluttering about. Appears to have fallen off the dispay eprom - the window is currently exposed.
Is it mandatory to cover this window, or OK to leave as is? Something better than black electrical tape (sticky). Maybe an HVAC type foil tape?
Thanks

I wouldn't think they're required to be covered, but since they're UV erasable, it's probably best practice. I've never seen anything but cheap white labels covering them, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Someone more knowledgeable will probably be able to chime in, though.

#1199 4 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I have Titans on mine orange rings with the orange slings, I could never go back to black.

Agreed! I love the colors available from Titan. I have orange and light blue in my JP.

#1202 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

How does one force the ball to stay on the wire crossover ramp? About 50% of the time, mine falls off. The culprit seems to be that there is too much space between the diverter and the plastic part of the ramp that cuts over to the wire form. At first I thought it was too much speed from the ball hitting the diverter, making it an un-even transfer. But I stiffened up the spring considerably to stop any unwanted movement from the diverter when hit, and still does it.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Makes me wonder why there wasn't some sort of edge catch on the wireform to stop that from happening.

Same happens on mine at high speeds.

#1231 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

He is a fellow pinsider. It is my fault, I was just in a rush. I did not confirm that the T-rex worked before I left. I already txted him. He said it worked. In this case, it is my fault and now I need to figure out how to fix it.
-It seems like the T-rex is locked up. It is trying to turn or lower, it just cant. Like something is restricting it from moving.

So in the t-rex diagnostic menu you can't get it to move at all with the buttons? Flipper buttons are left/right, start button is up/down (only goes in one direction and goes up and down in the full rotation of the up/down motor), and trigger is biting.

For the left/right motion there is a left switch, center switch, and right switch. For the up/down motion there is an up switch and a down switch.

Use the controls to get the t-rex into every extreme. Every one of these switches should be showing as activated when the t-rex is in the respective position.

#1235 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Right now, LEFT SWITCH is "ON" everything else is off. I am able to get him to bite, go up and down but it is "stuck" in the left. The LEFT switch is stuck "ON" it almost acts like it is literally STUCK in the left position. The left and right buttons trigger but it wont move to buz. If I touch the switches, they all work.

Is the t-rex actually in the left position? If so, that's why the switch is on. The question is why won't it move...
Is there a constant grinding sound? Like maybe is the motor locked on to where it's always moving left even when it hits the extreme?

With the game off, you should be able to grab and force the t-rex to the right. Maybe try that and turn it back on and see if anything happens.

I had an issue where left or right was locked on and it was due to a bad transistor on the driver board.

#1238 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

He is in the LEFT position currently. I tried to move it to the right before and it was locked tight.

Even with the game off?

That probably means something's binding. There's quite a bit involved in the t-rex mech, but one simple thing to do is unscrew the metal plate with foliage decals on it in front of the t-rex held on by two screws. That will allow you to see the left/center/right switches. Maybe that will release the tension, too.

#1240 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

ok. update.... I moved him to the right like you said... Turn machine on.. go to settings. and he ONLY goes left and wont go right. Regardless of left or right flipper. They BOTH go left.

Ok. Does it go left even if you're not hitting the left button? As in, you force it to the right, turn on the game and it's always moving left?

I think there are 2 things that could be happening:
1. If it is always moving left, it may be due to a bad transistor. I would think you'd hear constant griding, though because if it's locked on, it's never going to stop even when it hits the left switch and is told to stop.
2. Something is keeping the right motion from working. Perhaps a loose connector or something. Check the connector on the relay board near the t-rex under the pf.

I will say that I had case #1 happening on my game, but it would still move the right when I hit the right flipper button, it's just that it would always immediately move left again and grind at the left extreme, so that may not be your issue.

#1243 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

When I turn on the game he doesnt do anything. I only get him to move when I am in settings. When I press either flipper he moves left. When I let go he stops.

Ok, so even the right flipper makes it move left?

That might point to an issue with the relay... Maybe it's not clicking over or maybe it's locked on to where it's always moving left.

Page 48 in the manual gives the schematics of the bidirectional relay.

#1244 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Ok just downloaded the PDF manual. ok, in manual... "Top switch must indicate "ON" in order for rotate to function. My top switch is "off".

It'll still rotate in manual diagnostics. At least mine does.

In the t-rex diagnostics menu, does the UP switch activate when you push in the start button and it goes up/down? It should activate at a certain point when the t-rex is up. At that point you'd just let go of the button to keep it in the upright position.

#1247 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

HE is suppose to adjust when you turn on the machine right? He only moves in settings.

If it's not sensing the switches it expects, it will stop the test and indicate that you should check switches. It may be trying to move right and not sensing the right switch so it gives up.

I'd focus on the relay board. Check the connectors going to it and maybe tap the relay to see if it un-sticks something. It should be a small board under the pf near the t-rex. I can't recall without looking at it, but I think there are 2 relay boards down there. One is for left/right motion and I think the other is for the shaker motor.

#1257 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I think i know the answer before I even ask this question but ... does anyone have a good source for the speaker panel brackets on a JP?
Seems these are made from unobtainium so my guess is that I will have to make something myself.

I never found any aftermarket brackets. I managed to screw some L brackets onto mine that work. It seems like a part a 3D printer could do.

#1328 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I am having a hard time trying to figure out where I should mount them. I don't really see any perfectly even spots.

The new ones should fit perfectly where the old ones were. Just fill the stripped out holes with wood glue and toothpicks or skewers. Also, one of the holes is where a bolt from the top side comes down through the pf through a t-nut and goes through the support bracket. The bracket is secured to the bolt with a nut.

I think there are pictures in this thread where support brackets were discussed previously.

#1362 4 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

Basically all modern DMD games do that.

I'm not sure which was the first game to feature it but 1980 Williams Alien Poker does this for the right 2 flippers. It was dubbed "double action" flipper and calls it out on the printed text on the apron.

#1372 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Do they make replacements?

It wouldn't be too much of a stretch to DIY a complete new ball guide out of a small sheet of stainless steel, cut with a cutting disc on a Dremel. It would be a matter of leaving tabs at the bottom, drilling a hole in them and bending out.

I would think someone like Cliffy could pretty easily manufacture these if there was enough demand.

3 weeks later
#1542 4 years ago

Gordon, I had scanned all of my JP plastics at one point with the dino collar and the large raptor piece. I could maybe dig up those scans and email if you pm your email address.

#1545 4 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Hi Jim,
PM sent with email. That would be great.
Gord

Sent your way.

For the record, a dino collar protector may not be all that user friendly. Brackets would have to have rivets drilled out and reinstalled. I personally made a similar shaped "protector" plastic for mine since the original was snapped in 2 and needed it for the support.

Raptor pit isn't all that friendly either, but no rivets there. I have a protector I made installed on it as well, so it can be done.

Edit: I was trying to see if any pics I've posted show my protectors on these 2 plastics well. This post has a couple. I installed mine underneath the originals. I'm not sure how the commercial ones are intended to go. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress/page/8#post-2041939

#1547 4 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Hi Jim,
I just reviewed the scans and unfortunately I don't think that Pinbits will be able to use the Raptor Pit plastic scan or the Dino Collar plastic scan. The issue is that Pinbits said that they need to have a small ruler in the scan image for each plastic scan so that they are able to properly calibrate the image size when creating the plastic protectors.
Thanks anyway as I appreciate the effort.
Gord

Sorry to hear. No trouble since I already had the scans from when I was repairing the game a while ago. No way I'm going to uninstall and rescan at this point though.

#1551 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Damn Anyone else got a scan of this one? Mines burnt
Could you use a burnt one and use winters to fix my burnt scan?

The scans aren't for reproducing artwork, just to get the size and shapes for protectors. I doubt anyone is going to make legit repros, though CPR did have JP plastics on a want to find post, giving me the impression they may make them at some point.

I don't know if Stern chases down violators of DE intellectual property like PPS does with B/W, but there's also the potential to be infringing on Universal's IP if you repro the gate plastic that says "Jurassic Park". Otherwise I don't know if Universal would have any stake in the images on the plastics, which are mainly just plants and a few generic dinos.

A road someone probably could go down is making new art for the plastics, but purists probably wouldn't go for it.

Either way, the biggest challenge would be printing the artwork on the plastic at high enough quality to be worth buying which would probably be best with silk screening. Most people aren't set up for that.

1 month later
#1659 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

My TREX all of a sudden stopped chomping the ball when it bends down. When it goes through startup diagnostics, the jaw chomps. When I access it through the diagnostics menu, the jaw chomps when I pull the trigger. I thought it might be a switch that is activated when it lowers, but did not see one for chomping in the switch matrix.
I looked underneath, and did not see anything that is obvious, like a hanging wire. Could someone suggest where in particular I would look for the fix? Here is a pix of the mechanism, if that is useful Thanks for your help!

TREX_controls_(resized).JPG

This is an issue with your t-rex saucer switch. If the arm is bent such that it's barely making contact when the ball is on it, the game can potentially register that the ball moved out before the t-rex bent down to eat it.

Basically, if the game isn't reading a ball in the saucer the entire time the t-rex is bending down, it won't bite.

FYI: there's not a chomp switch. The game doesn't actually know if the t-rex is biting the ball. It just assumes if the ball is in the saucer and the t-rex down switch is active, it's in the right spot for the jaw coil to be activated until the up switch is hit.

#1665 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Thanks for the help. I have been following the incredible t.rex mod from winteriscoming, and in looking back, I see he posted the installation video which serves as a very clear guide to disassembling it. I will use this to dig in and see what needs to be fixed. Thank you to matt_adams and winteriscoming! I will followup on what I find.

I'm not discounting a wiring issue. I've not had any experience with that.

Post some pics of the stripped down frame. Pay close attention to the jaw link assembly that connects the coil in the lower back of the t-rex to the jaw. There's a nub at the top that goes into a hole in the jaw for making it chomp that can end up falling off. If there's a lot of slop in that assembly or if the nub recently broke, I could see that causing the mouth to be opening wider than normal. There are replacement jaw links at Pinball Life and Marco Specialties.

1 week later
#1687 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

i thought the mode was supposed to change with the pops or the sling hits

At the beginning of the game, the first mode is locked in. That wasn't changed from the previous version, AFAIK. The difference is that the starting mode is now random, where it was always Stampede before. Once the mode is initiated, I believe they change with sling or pop hits until locked in with the power shed. I think it worked that way in the previous version didn't it? I've been on the new roms too long to remember exactly.

Does your raptor coil not fire in diagnostics either? Is the coil possibly burned out?

1 week later
#1714 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

DERP! Lol....I am not a fan, sorry.

What, you think you've got one that looks better?

It's a commendable DIY effort.

#1738 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I think I need to bend the EOS to make it work better - question is in what direction?

You can manually actuate the flipper from above and see what it's doing for the EOS switch and get a feel for which direction, if any, it needs to be bent. It may also need to be cleaned... or maybe a wire has come loose or any number of issues.

1 week later
#1766 4 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

but it is driving me slightly insane that the completely wrong dino is on it.

Overall I like it, but I agree with this. That would be a deal breaker for me.

Everyone's entitled to do what they want with their own games, but I never understand when I see stuff like this. Why go through the trouble of making up new JP cabinet decals if you're not even going to put dinos that are from the actual movie? Why aren't the dinos a T-REX and raptor?

I guess my other complaint would be that it's the same dino, just mirrored, but I think that may actually be par for the course with some of the stuff Stern churns out now.

1 week later
#1833 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Yes I know, I will be using that one on my Pin.
Working on the music. Will watch the movie tonight with pen and paper and find all the quotes that I want for the game.

"Shoot her! Shooot her!"

I can't believe they didn't incorporate that into the game.

#1915 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I think he is not making them any more!

Why is this always the assumption?

I try to keep my thread pretty up to date. I've never once said I'm not making more. I am taking a break, and have real life stuff happening that's more important than a hobby project at the moment.

#1952 3 years ago

If you're going with an LCD, I'd recommend going with DMD Extender or SmartDMD since they are cheaper and allow for custom color palettes.

I've had DMD Extender in my JP for a while now.

Also RGB LED panels are now available that fit exactly in place of the DMD without requiring alteration. There are a few threads here talking about them and a few people selling solutions.

#1955 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

But ColorDMD just released Guns N' Roses... which, surely, opens the flood gates for other Data East.

I'll believe it when I see it for JP. After purchasing a couple RGB LED panels, I'd much prefer a solution with them. An LCD in JP requires removing a couple lights in the backbox and is a pain to service because the speaker panel has to be removed before the hinged light board can swing out. And the LCD is susceptible to damage during servicing (mine is cracked).

#1958 3 years ago

I was wrong. Bulbs didn't have to be removed.

Quoted from ChadH:

I am wondering how the physicality of Guns N Roses compares to that of JP in relation to adding a ColorDMD. Anyone know?

Same?
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1100&picno=41455

Here's a pic of mine without the backglass in:

dfc2d288135c2a8438cf94942d7c871a80f95faf_(resized).jpg

#1961 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Update:
I think I will almost DOUBLE the amount of sounds available in the game. Mainly because I add a huge variety of Dino-Sounds straight from the movies. Had to check out how they did those - sound design IS awesome

Looking forward to upgrading JP and getting to utilize your hard work one day.

3 weeks later
#2071 3 years ago
Quoted from shadem:

Yes I run the tests and switches are OK. It just seems that the center switch is not exactly in the center. I dont see any way to re-center it.
rexi_(resized).jpg
rexi2_(resized).jpg

Not sure on adjusting, but there's a bit of a range in the center where that switch is activated. It tends to be a factor of which side it approaches from. Your pic doesn't seem unreasonable to me.

#2079 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Who can 3D print in this club? We need a fence mod ASAP. Thats one thing I am really surprised about, is that there are no fence references in the plastics or playfield toys. Id REALLY like a broken fence around the trex. Maybe some one can print the fence posts with the light and siren and then you could use guitar string for the cables? Any input?

I'd like to see something like that. It's something I want to eventually make for mine, but "eventually" keeps getting further and further away.

#2091 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Right? I noticed too. I wondered when we would see our first machine sell with it.

It's not my place to say what anyone should do with their game, but not sure why you'd buy the upgrade if JP isn't a keeper. Makes no difference to me, though, I guess. As few as I've been able to sell to date, it's a pretty exclusive club.

3 weeks later
#2146 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

Time for some investigative work it seems. This morning I tested around with it and have gathered a couple clues.
When the ball goes into the saucer the trex comes down and swallows it as normal. It then comes back down and up again but doesn't close its jaw. This is exactly what occurs when the trex is supposed to eat the ball from the saucer but the ball is removed before it can be swallowed.
Next I took a flathead and manually pressed and held down the saucer switch. The trex did its proper routine but this time it did not come down for a second bite. This makes me think something down the line after swallowing the ball is causing this issue. The only things after that are the trex subway switch and VUK. I tested the switches on both in the switch test and both appear to be properly operating.
I would guess the saucer switch may be faulty but I have doubts as after the first swallow the saucer switch uses the kicker to kick the ball out of the saucer. If there was a second false switch activation I would imagine the saucer would kick as opposed to send the trex down.
My next test though a PITA to setup properly due to all the balls is to lift the playfield and have the trex swallow the ball but stop the ball before it hits the subway switch and see how it reacts. Repeat but have the ball hit the subway switch but not the VUK and again observe the reaction.
My guess is that the VUK is rattling something causing the trex to go down but as of right now that's just a total guess.

As far as I know, the T-rex doesn't care what happens after the ball is swallowed. That subway switch could be completely removed and the t-rex would operate normally. The only thing that makes the t-rex bend down is if the saucer switch is activated. The only thing that makes the t-rex bite is if the saucer switch is activated, the center switch is activated and the down switch is activated.

The t-rex just assumes once it goes up that the ball is swallowed, but there's nothing that checks for this immediately after it stands up. The only logic driving anything else to do with the t-rex up/down/chomp is a ball search. For example, the t-rex could grab the ball, stand up and have the ball stuck in its mouth. The game will continue as normal, waiting for however long with no switch hits to start ball search.

Edit: I agree that it could be a faulty up switch. If the up switch is flaky, it could miss it on the first go and has to cycle through another rotation before it registers again. The arm might just need to be bent to make better contact in the up position. It could also possibly be a flaky saucer switch. Make sure the saucer switch is gapped enough so that it's not making contact with vibrations, but is close enough to make good contact when a ball is in it.

1 week later
#2177 3 years ago
Quoted from Camvr2013:

Got my dinos in!! Toys R Us had a 2 pack with a raptor and t-rex on sale. As a childless man, I was taken by how expensive these German toys(Schliech) can be. All in all cost about $15 for the toys and steel wire. Now to find a ceramic white ball for the egg!

PAPO's are more movie accurate than Schleich.

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

Pteranodons weren't in JP1, but since they put some in the pin, these are modeled after the ones in JP3.
amazon.com link »

1 month later
#2355 3 years ago

I'll be curious to read reviews on the quality of those reproduced plastics.

Are they screen printed? If not. I don't like having to pay as much or more than CPR charges for screen printed plastics, and CPR had JP plastics listed as acquired for a potential run at some point in the future.

Edit: That's not a full set. They don't have the blue slings, and am I correct that I'm not seeing the upper left corner plastic? That one's actually broken on my game so this set won't work for me if not included.

Here's a pic of what I think is the full set: http://mad-amusements.com/img/p/1378-1910-thickbox.jpg

#2359 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Speaking of JP plastic sets. Saw what says to be a NOS set on ebay. First of this kind that I've seen. If I was doing a HEP-ish restore of mine, I'd consider the price.
ebay.com link » Nos Jp Jurassic Park Pinball Plastics
Also just checked out to see what else he has for sale, and he's got a NOS playfield as well for more than what I paid for my complete machine.

I'm surprised that's still there. Maybe a year or more ago you'd see ebay bidding wars for incomplete used sets going for 500+, and I seem to recall an incomplete NOS set going crazy high. Weird, because back then I'd totally have dropped 350 on a NOS set, but don't think I care enough to pay that much at the moment. I guess I'm also a bit leary not knowing if it's an official set given that there was a repro set run by some company that gets put out there sometimes that some have said are inferior quality.

#2366 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Got my set today.
It is missing the upper right corner and comes with the orange slings.
First: These are NOT screen printed but I think they look really good. I wouldn't say perfect as you can't get the colors 100% right but I really really couldn't care less.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3okwx40u8e7gpbi/2016-06-25%2012.39.47.jpg?dl=0
Please keep in mind I made that picture through the glass. I don't know why the dot in the lower left is red on the repro. The yellow looks far more off than it does in reality.
I'm a shitty photographer but here is a closeup of the Raptor plastic in the back so you can get an idea of the quality:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/peqtvv4s5xzslia/2016-06-25%2013.43.05.jpg?dl=0

Thanks for sharing. How well does light shine through them?

It's disappointing that it's not a full set. I wonder why they left out the corner piece.

#2376 3 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Edit: That's not a full set. They don't have the blue slings, and am I correct that I'm not seeing the upper left corner plastic? That one's actually broken on my game so this set won't work for me if not included.

It occurred to me that they're missing another peice: the dino collar - the peice that goes around the t-rex and moves with it.
A full set would need to have that as well, so at least 4 plastics are missing from the Pinball Center JP set.

That's a pretty high price they're asking for an incomplete set.

#2378 3 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

You can always dispute the charges through paypal, your credit card company, bank etc...

It would be a jerk move, but you could dispute through PayPal as a forgery. I bet these aren't licensed, so you'd likely have a legitimate claim going that route, but I think you have to provide them photographic proof that you've destroyed them.

Quoted from BobC:

I don't see how you are supposed to know if they are good quality or match your existing plastics otherwise

A less nefarious method would be to contact the store and let them know your concerns and that you don't want to have to pay for return shipping. Their site clearly says "Reproduction, Top Quality!" in the description, so their claim is that they are high quality, which is subjective. I think you'd have a claim based on quality alone if you don't agree that they're "top quality". If the seller won't eat return shipping costs, you might be able to raise that concern with PayPal or Credit Card company, etc.

#2387 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Cant find them any where. His site doesnt work and wont let me add them to the cart.
Also, what happened to the guy making the sticker decals for the rails and lockdown bar?

I know you don't like having "derpy" stuff in your game, so why consider decals that have cheezy dino silhouettes and the same tree cut and paste all over it? The sunset hills don't even go with the image running along the back of the pf, which is isn't a sunset scene.

2 weeks later
#2437 3 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Thanks for posting this scan sheet of decals for JP. How would one go about getting this decal sheet printed as a decal sheet?
Is this something that a Fedex Office Print Center would be able to print as a decal sheet if I provide them the scan file on a USB drive? I will check with them as well as I would want something that is die-cut so that the decals are easy to apply.
Gord

You could try to DIY with adhesive backed paper and probably a layer of mylar on top.

A Silhouette Cameo/Portrait could cut them. It's a fun device to own.

3 weeks later
#2486 3 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

I am experiencing a crazy sound glitch; worked great for a few months, but now music will stop playing at random, and most audio sounds will be substituted with the T-Rex roar. This also is reproduced in the diagnostic menu. I have uploaded a quick video showing the unique randomness of the roar;
» Vimeo video
During idle it will also start playing the T-Rex roar when no audio is called for; displays credits and ROA-ROA-ROAAAAR-RO-RO-ROAAAAAR.
I have re-seated all the connections, but have not pulled the ROMS or board yet. Anyone have experience with this?
Possibly unrelated, the game modes with the unofficial 6.0 get confused frequently; it will activate multiple modes at the same time. It appears to activate electric fence, feed T-Rex, and Escape simultaneously. After draining a ball it will activate yet another mode, then quickly cancel it out. I'll start by pulling the ROMS and running a checksum just to see if there is any discrepancy or corruption.
Thanks for any feedback!

Some of that odd behavior sounds like a trough switch issue. ChadH commented on that somewhere in this thread... There's a kind of phantom switch that if hit will do all kinds of crazy things in the game. At least one of the trough switches is a potential trigger for that phantom switch if it's got issues affecting the switch matrix. I had it going on at one point and when I looked at my trough switches, the diodes and switch tabs were bent all kinds of weird ways making connections that they shouldn't have been. I'd recommend starting there.

#2488 3 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

That would make sense- I had some issues with it not properly registering the balls in the trough, and appeared to be resolved by cleaning up the soldering. According to the patch notes for Chad's unofficial 6.00, the "switch 28"/bug loop was set to be ignored (unless this is some other matrix fault). Just to be safe, I'll go through that section again and double check all the work and report back.
Thank you!

Oh, I didn't know he potentially addressed that. I may be steering you in the wrong direction, then.

#2493 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I have been dreading this ever since I started fixing up my JP. I've been keeping an accurate tally of all the costs I've been putting into my machine. I've finally added up that total, and it's not as bad as I thought. I MAY be able to break even if I had to sell the machine today, which, luckily I don't.
In all total, including the machine, TRex Mod, 3D Printed Gate, Loop Combo Mod, LEDs throughout, external Polk Sub, repaired and replaced parts, and even a newly ordered Flipper Fidelity speaker system, and anything else I'm forgetting; I only have about $3080 wrapped up in it. I was totally expecting $4000.
You can do the general math to figure out that I got one heck of a deal on this machine.

It's never good to keep a tally of expenses.

It's probably the only pin I can say this about, but technically JP has made me more money than I've spent on it since it enabled me to make the T-rex mod.

2 weeks later
#2535 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Is there a way to light them without drilling? Really would rather not. My scoops are kind of rigged as it is, dont really feel like pulling them.

They're not completely sealed around the upper edges on all sides are they? Isn't there a slight gap you could shine light through?

1 month later
#2595 3 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Is Matt going to have the JP Trex at Expo for the people who are on the pre order list?

Not sure of the Matt you're referring to, but if you're talking about the t-rex I make, then no.

#2603 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

T-rex goes up and down forever when game boots and diagnostics start. During game play he continues going up and down. What switches am I looking at to troubleshoot? First time fixing a T-Rex. Thx for any help.

One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide. It's kind of my area of expertise

If you lift the pf and look at the t-rex mech, you'll see there are 2 switches that are activated in the up/down motion of the t-rex. One for up and one for down. That's where to start.

Though maybe go into t-rex diagnostics first and drive the t-rex up and down to see if the switches register. If, for example, up never registers, that's the culprit.

It's probably likely to be the up switch as I think it would fail diagnostics and stay up if that switch was registering and down wasn't.

#2627 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Probably a dumb question (more of a sanity check) about adjusting your T-Rex. I've bent the two metal "teeth" on the lower jaw as shown in your video and I've got it to the point where in a game it will pick up the ball by trapping it between the upper and lower "teeth" but not actually get it all the way into its mouth. It can carry the ball pinched between the upper and lower "teeth" to its fully upright position, but the ball doesn't go in T-Rex's mouth. Does that mean I need to bend the lower teeth even more?

For me that was the case. The ball would get picked up by the tabs and stay there. Bending the tabs out more would keep the ball from getting picked up by the edge of the tabs and being stuck until moving down again.

If the ball makes it into the mouth, behind the tabs, but stays there without swallowing, then it's going to be more of an issue with playfield angle/padding behind the link assembly, and/or rviguet's suggestion.

#2628 3 years ago
Quoted from Vanapult:

Anything you can say would be most important to address during a rebuild, without having to go into explaining how?

A new link assembly and jaw frame are kind of nice. That should help stiffen up the jaw movement which would become looser as the nub on the link wears down the hole in the jaw frame.

Other than that, just ensure all switches are registering and correct/replace as needed.

#2629 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Hey I think I fixed T Rex. He seems a little noisy and slow going left to right. should I use anything to lubricate underneath?
Thx

Left/right motion is kind of noisy and, due to a software update, not as fast and smooth moving to help with wear on the gears.

I wouldn't lubricate, for me the the metal tray piece in front of the t-rex, screwed on with 2 screws was kind of binding against the left/right guide post thing that sits comes up through the track below it. I added washers under the tray to lift it off a little and it helped my t-rex.

You can test by loosening those screws or removing the tray to see if it helps.

2 weeks later
#2714 3 years ago

Hopefully without coming across as a jerk, may I provide some feedback? I appreciate the effort as this appears to be an original design that's a step up from the other JP sideart I've seen.

I've seen a few offerings aimed at JP and I think they're mostly missing the mark, at least from what I'd like to have installed in my game, especially for the asking price. However, I never understand why these come out of nowhere without any community feedback in the development process. I would think a community driven approach would yield the best results and you'd get more interested buyers.

My main critique is that this version doesn't look to me like it uses the same style of art/colors and doesn't carry on the image from the back board. In my opinion, for sideart to look like it belongs, it should be integrated into the existing artwork. You've got an orange dawn or dusk sky while the back is a blue daytime sky with clouds. You've got silhouettes of dinosaurs, while all other dinos depicted in the artwork are drawn out in relatively high detail.

My secondary issue is that you've chosen to mirror the image for both sides. This means from the player's viewpoint, you're going to see the same dino on either side. That's kind of boring. Any reason the 2 sides can't have different dinos?

#2721 3 years ago
Quoted from deanearp:

I'm having some T-Rex issues related to his springs. I just bought my JP and I have already noticed that the previous owner did not put some things together correctly (like the gate to the jets that was put on backward and kicking the ball into the power shed on the skill shot). Could a couple of different people take pictures of the spring at the base of the neck on the topside of the playfield and also the spring on the bottom side of the playfield on the T-Rex assembly. I ask for a couple of different samples because in trying to research this there seem to be different ways that this is put together--even some that don't have the spring on the topside. Also, if anybody knows what spring to use on the underside, please let me know as mine is clearly shot.
One final thing I noticed on my T-Rex assembly is that the drive wheel on the underside of the assembly that make him go up and down is a little cock-eyed--it this normal? I added a picture to help clarify what I mean by cock-eyed.

Sorry, don't have pics on hand, but...

The top-side spring that's attached to the jaw link assembly at the back of the t-rex is a compression spring held between the coil bracket and an overly long roll pin that sticks out on either side towards the end of the plunger. That plunger is supposed to come to rest on a rubber nub that makes the plunger push in more when the t-rex is in the upright position. This is the correct setup. When I looked before, I couldn't find a spring with the part number from the manual from any online vendors. A vuk spring should be fine.

The spring below the pf is a tension spring. I found a pack of springs at Lowes and used one of those in this spot.

Your pic makes me think the bracket arm that moves up and down on the rotation is bent. It should be pretty parallel to the wheel.

#2723 3 years ago
Quoted from deanearp:

The other spring that I am wondering about is the torsion spring at the base of the neck topside--I included a picture below.

You can see a pic of that one installed here:
https://images.pinside.com/4/ab/4abe4f45864572df2598ccaf74c35ce0a2cc9b4e/resized/large/4abe4f45864572df2598ccaf74c35ce0a2cc9b4e.jpg

In my experience that spring isn't there so much for lifting the t-rex but for easing the decent on the way down. There are cases where, lacking that spring, the t-rex would go smacking down into the playfield on the way down. The arm underneath is capable of lifting the t-rex into the upright position without this spring being installed.

Quoted from deanearp:

I have read that some people cannot get their T-Rex to go all the way back and swallow the pinball--it makes me wonder if this spring is missing or improperly placed in those instances.

I would think that's more a function of playfield angle, slop in the jaw link assembly that's driven by the coil in the back of the t-rex, slop in the up/down movement at the motor/arm, and lack of the rubber nub at the back the t-rex under the coil plunger that causes the jaw to close more when the t-rex is fully upright.

Quoted from deanearp:

Also, see in the picture, that grey spacer in the lower right hand corner--there is only supposed to be one of those, right? Mine was under the right side of the plate in front of the T-Rex--there was nothing under the left side. It almost seems like there should at least be a small spacer on the left side so the metal piece under it on the T-Rex is not scraping against it as it moves right and left.

I'm honestly not sure what the stock configuration is here. Mine had no spacers, and the t-rex mech was rubbing up against that plate. My solution and recommendation to others has been to put washers under both screw holes to lift the plate up slightly. That spacer in your pic seems way too tall, but in any case, you'd want it to be relatively level so that both sides are parallel to the pf and lifted up off of the t-rex mech.

Edit: BTW, if you're looking to rebuild and get better performance, Marco sells new jaw frames as well as jaw links. Pinball Life has the jaw link for cheaper, but no jaws. Replacing both will remove slop that's developed over time in the jaw. It might not be needed if you get decent jaw performance. You can manually test by leaning the t-rex forward slightly in t-rex diagnostic and pushing in the plunger to close the jaw as far as it will go. Take your other hand and try to move the jaw. If there's much movement up and down in that position, it might be worth replacing the parts.

Edit 2: Here's a pic of the t-rex frame bent down all the way. You can see the black rubber nub I'm referring to that should be present to aid in closing the jaw more when upright.
https://images.pinside.com/2/a9/2a93849775d3610ddbada35a2866c393c5f4d500/resized/large/2a93849775d3610ddbada35a2866c393c5f4d500.jpg

This may be the part from Marco:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00

1 month later
#2864 3 years ago

I hated the blinking in mine!

2 months later
#3014 3 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

can you clarify or even maybe send me a pick of the black wire connect/general location when you get a second? Not at the machine right now, but remember seeing a bundled/sheath of wires that leads to the T-Rex from the playfield and trying to confirm if the black wire will be in this (and I'll need to remove the sheath) or if it's separate from this bundle.

There are 2 wires going to the coil on the back of the t-rex, probably sheathed. They should be exposed to where you can see the color going to each lead on the coil. Make a note of which color goes on which lead in relation to the diode (banded side or not) and look where they connect under the PF (I can't quite remember where they terminate off hand). Replace the entire sheath with both wires. The break could be in either wire, so just replace it all.

3 weeks later
#3075 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

I will see what I can get done. This might take some time as I have to go to some one that knows how to draw this.

Please reach out for community feedback as progress is made. I've seen a few attempts come out of nowhere and they all miss the mark one way or another.

I'm personally not buying anything that uses the same cut and paste dino or palm tree over and over, and I'm not buying anything that has the left and right side mirrored.

#3079 2 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

That's a lot to ask for since they are all mirrored.

The better examples of side art I've seen are not mirrored.

#3081 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I dunno, I really love my T2 ones from hassanchop that are mirrored.
I just dont like the ones that are mirrored poorly like the copy paste ones above.

If we're talking dinos for JP, and I hope we are, I don't want to see the exact same one mirrored on both sides, but maybe that's just me.

If I recall correctly, the only mirroring present on the playfield occurs on the slingshots.

#3095 2 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

Out of curiosity, is there anyway to avoid having to replace the batteries so that the high scores/etc. don't reset?

You can install NVRAM and eliminate the need for batteries. It's pretty easy to do on DE games as there is no soldering involved. There are several vendors selling NVRAM solutions these days at varying prices. Get one that claims to be compatible with DE and they should have directions available for you.

#3106 2 years ago

Curious... looking at the pics of the JP plastics, I hope we're seeing a white backing on some of those such at the raptor pit that are supposed to be clear.

I'll be purchasing for sure, though. I'm very happy to see these come through.

#3112 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Are they supposed to be that blue? That blue looks too deep to me. Maybe its the white backing?

That can be hard to judge from pictures, but there's also the potential for stock plastics to have faded a bit, and maybe they had references for original color codes? In my opinion, with repro plastics you're better off installing the full set and not mixing in old plastics. That way you're getting consistent colors, if any variations from stock exist.

The fact of the matter is that unless you find a NOS set, CPR's are always going to be THE best option for the price.

#3116 2 years ago

Am I correct that CPR's raptor pit plastic is altered from stock around the hole where the amber block's bulb wiring is routed? I've removed my plastics before and recall having to desolder some bulbs to get that one off. If it's a change, it's probably for the better because you would be able to remove the plastic without messing with unwiring the bulbs.

1 week later
#3135 2 years ago

I received my CPR plastics. Overall they seem decent, and as I mentioned in an earlier post, probably THE best option outside of an overpriced unavailable NOS set, or the incomplete direct printed German set, but as I suspect is often the case where repro art has to be redrawn from scratch, close comparisons to the originals are likely going to lead to disappointment.

Just a quick comparison between a stock blue sling and the repro: The repro blue is darker. The repro has some loss in detail where the stock image had finer black lines and the repro's lines are thicker, causing details to be lost. This particular plastic has a dithered dot pattern going from white to full blue. The dot pattern is different and flowing a slightly different direction.

I am disappointed by the loss of detail, but the fact is that we're not going to see a better offering for these from here on out.

I won't be able to get around to installing these for any kind of full review any time soon. I'll be interested to read reviews from others with concern for light transmission, fit, etc.

#3153 2 years ago
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:

I think we'll go ahead with our mini kit and get as close to original as possible.

What would a mini kit include? I feel like I have so many broken originals that some will get left out if a repro kit isn't full.

Quoted from comment23:

My earlier post was pretty optimistic that perhaps the darker blue may be "more dynamic", but honestly I'm starting to feel a bit disappointed by these. In my opinion, you would not be able to mix together the two sets of plastics (much like I have done with other CPR sets Like DESW).

I'm disappointed about the darker blue more now seeing it installed on the pf in your pics. You can see where the stock blue plastics match the pf, but the repro blue is a new color added into the mix. I wonder what they were referencing to come up with such a darker Pantone color. On one hand I'm glad CPR made them, but as a big fan of this pin, it kind of sucks to have to settle for something less than perfect.

I'm not entirely up to speed on the CPR process, but it seems like there should be some kind of peer review process to ensure correct colors... or maybe do more crowd sourcing for some things like post a pic of the plastic being used for reference next to Pantone swatches noting the intended color. Those of us who own a machine and Pantone books could weigh in. Maybe post general pics of the set of plastics being referenced and see if owners notice issues compared to their set.

I would have gladly participated for free in order to get a perfect JP set.

Maybe the set CPR referenced truly was darker with thicker lines than what most of us have?

#3158 2 years ago
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:

Blue is actually the hardest of all colors to match when you're designing something on computer to be printed.

Isn't CPR doing silk screening, though, and I wouldn't think they are referencing the colors from the scans. The scans would be for reference when tracing layers into vectors, but having actual plastics in hand would be required to figure out actual colors compared to Pantone swatches. At which point the colors for the layers in the vector program don't mean anything. They're just used to create silk screens and then Pantone coded inks would be used for each layer when screen printing.

If CPR, or anyone else reproducing these, are referencing colors solely from scans without having actual plastics in hand, then that's a terrible process.

If anyone is designing repro plastics for direct printing, I would think they could use something like Pantone and figure out what from the printer matches the Pantone colors before committing to a run. Lock down whatever the colors need to be for the printer in question and then print them.

Having said all that, I'm not a professional in this field, so I'd be happy to be educated on why my assumptions aren't correct.

1 week later
#3196 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

will hold off in hopes that they correct the blues from what you all say it's like now.

I doubt we'll see that. I think they do a run and move on.

Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

I wish they would run prototypes for collectors so we could help get it right and in turn help them get more sales!

I don't know if prototypes would be feasible since that would require a full investment for screens equal to the final run. They'd want to address issues before having anything physical in place. Though there's got to be some way of getting input from big fans of a given pin who can act as representatives of the Pinside base of owners, ensuring that fans are happy and that CPR gets maximum sales from satisfied customers. That is assuming Pinside is a significant portion of their customer base, which we may not be.

Has anyone in this thread who has purchased the set been satisfied?

I may hold onto my set, but I'm still curious to see pics and reviews of a full install. I won't be able to work on mine for a long time.

2 months later
#3294 2 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I've been working on shopping out my JP and just finished putting on the new plastics from CPR.
Just thought I'd throw some pics up for reference for anyone considering buying the plastic set. As other have said, the blue is darker than the originals. Also, I kept the original back playfield plastic since it lit up better once I did the lighting mod. The repro plastics are definitely more opaque than the originals.

Thanks for posting! They look good in your pics. I will guess it comes down to replacing them all and not mixing old and new.

Is the higher opacity an issue, in your opinion?

1 month later
#3375 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Edit: I torqued down on them and they got flush, but then it is binding up t rex's side to side movement somehow (the black "skirt" is clear).
Edit 2: now t rex moves but is slow and stuttering. Oh god what have I done?

Just loosen the screws a little or, better yet, install washers under the screws to lift it a little off of the t-rex mech. If you were to remove the plate, you'd see the arm that sticks through the rounded slot there that hits the 3 position switches for left, front and center for the t-rex.

If you happened to be on older roms and recently upgraded, there was an update somewhere along the way that aimed to slow the t-rex down so the gears would last, making it stutter more, but assuming you didn't do that, I'd blame the plate being torqued down too hard.

1 week later
#3445 2 years ago

LED would be the way to go for JP. I have an LCD installed in mine with DMD Extender and the screen sticks out in front of the bulbs in the back and I actually cracked my screen when servicing it because of this. Not to mention it requires some permanent modifications to the speaker panel.

#3473 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I will be the first to say that I'm like 50-50 on it. Some of the screen shots posted had the greens very dark and the Dinos looked cartoonish - mostly the raptor skill shot. Waiting to see a video before deciding.
I think trex multiball screen and match screen could offer a lot.

They're dinosaurs rendered in low res pixels. The original animations are cartoonist. ColorDMD's primary purpose is to colorize the existing images, so they're going to end up being colorized cartoonist dinos. There may end up being an over use of green, but the alternative would have probably been brown, and I don't know if brown reads well in RGB LEDs.

#3492 2 years ago

OK - that looks way awesome! I was thinking some of the dinos looked like they might be green, but that video is showing that they're more brownish (true to the film!). I'm curious to know how well brown reads in the RGB LEDs. I think I'll be getting one regardless, but I'd be curious to hear from others who have it.

4 weeks later
#3606 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, buy the new improved T-Rex!

Let's check back in 20 years, just so it's a fair fight.

7 months later
#4378 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

That set is under $6 at target

I can't find a listing for it on the Target website. I guess it's in store only.

#4382 1 year ago

The good sets were sold out at the one I went to yesterday... I only managed to find a single pack with the Jeep. I want the Ranger.

The singles were 1.95, I believe.

#4395 1 year ago

People are clearing out the cars at Target, but I did manage to find a 5-pack with the Explorer I wanted.

#4396 1 year ago
Quoted from Time:

Anyone know where I can get the lamp holders for these? They seem like they're riveted on through the plastic housing and different from what I see at pinball life. Mine are melted and the bulbs wont stay put.

You may have to buy some attached to other kinds of brackets, drill out rivets and rivet new sockets to your old JP bracket.

#4397 1 year ago

Huh... the single pack JP jeep I got is different than the one in the 5 pack. One is Jeep 12 with a translucent amber cover and the other is 18 with a wire cage and no cover.

What's the number on the one in the t-rex chase in JP? 10?

jp jeeps (resized).jpg

#4400 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

yes it is the number 10 on that jeep

Wonder why they didn't make a 10. I didn't care until I noticed this...

I probably wasn't going to do anything with the Jeep in the game, but I think I will try to do something with the Explorer.

FYI to anyone interested who doesn't make it to Target that often, or doesn't want to go there just to find they're out of stock, Amazon does seem to have the 5-pack for about $10 at the moment, which may be worth the extra $4.

1 month later
#4407 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

Also finally found two Wounded Malcolm Funco Pop figures.

That is hilarious!

#4408 1 year ago
Quoted from radfordian3505:

put 2 mods on my jurrasic park so far and I'm very happy with them especially the velociraptor on raptor kickback

I recommend checking out the PAPO raptor if you're not aware of it. It looks more like the JP raptor, in my opinion. Their line of toys look to have been modeled off of JP dinos and they tend to look better than licensed JP toys available on the shelves right now. I don't think they have a fanned-out dilophosaurus, though.

It's your game, so do what you want, but I think there are better looking dinos out there if that's what you're into.

#4412 1 year ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

but you'd have to ^^^ take that up with whomever that might be ^^^.

That's pretty cryptic for anyone not in the know. Please don't start flare-up in that other thread...

#4423 1 year ago
Quoted from mmarch1:

Thank you so much Lonzo I put a small Pad (used on legs of chairs) below the Jaw Plunger like you said now my T-Rex chomps! Rock on!

Has one of my T-rexes made it to Canada or were you having an issue on the stock T-rex?

The improved T-rex thread has a video with directions, and I think I mention in it that additional padding under the plunger can help, as well as a method for knowing if you've bent the jaw tabs out enough.

You can test it with just the top peice of the t-rex installed. Start with just the jaw frame installed without the jaw piece screwed on. If the t-rex is all the way down with the nose touching the PF, you should be able to manually push in the jaw plunger and get the ball fully into the mouth without it getting stuck in the tabs. If not, take the jaw out and bend them out more. This is demonstrated in the video along with how to test in the full range of left/right of center where the center switch is clicked on.

1 month later
#4449 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is the Trex body itself available

You may still be able to track down original bodies, or at least some parts of it, but I would suggest not buying a game with missing parts unless you're getting a really good deal.

They're rarely available and only in the US, but there is an updated T-rex body. I'm the one who makes it.

2 months later
#4629 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

I got two broken stand up targets (the green plastic part)
[quoted image]
Is it possible to replace the plastic or do I need to buy a new switch?

If you can find the plastic, it's possible to drill out the rivet, and install a new plastic and rivet. You would need a new rivet and rivet press, too.

I'm not sure about the availability of those plastics in the right colors, though. I recall in a custom project, I put together some similar targets with orange an yellow target plastics from Marco, but I wasn't looking for green and red, so not sure if they have them.

2 weeks later
#4656 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I want to join the Jurassic Park club and am looking to trade a WCS I fixed up really nicely. The WCS was my first pin, and there were a few extra things I had to fix I wasn't expecting to have to fix due to a lack of knowledge on my part. What should I be looking at in a Jurassic Park machine other than the usual, everything works, playfield not scratched up, basic condition, etc. Is there anything specific I should look out for? I'm guessing the TREX being fully functional is at the top of the list. I have had 3 offers in the few hours I've had it up, but have seen no pictures. One is advertised as "players condition", another is missing the TREX and main ramp, and another is fully functional but "the ball won't go down the TREX shoot". Just how hard is it to get the TREX working? Is this a maintenance heavy machine?
Thanks and having a lot of fun reading through 4,651 posts on a single pinball machine. Ain't the internet grand?

Definitely get one that HAS a t-rex. If it's missing, you're going to be in rough shape trying to find a replacement. The mechanism isn't too terribly complex, but there is a gearbox as part of the left/right turning movement that can wear down. I'm not aware of an aftermarket repair for that other than finding a replacement motor/gearbox. I'm not sure how readily available those are at this point.

There's literally just a hole down the middle of the t-rex for the ball to fall into the subway below. If the ball isn't making it down into the subway, there's blockage - perhaps a screw that's too long holding the plastic t-rex parts on. The screws thread right into the ball's path in the t-rex frame. You're potentially looking at an overlong screw in the back of the t-rex's neck or the 2 screws in the front of the t-rex. I can't think of anything else besides potentially debris in the path.

Basically for the t-rex to function, you've got to have left/right movement working (some people disable it if gears are worn down), left/right t-rex switches working, center t-rex switch working, t-rex trough switch working, t-rex up and down switches working, t-rex up/down movement/motor working, t-rex jaw link mechanically working properly, and coil that drives the jaw working. These can all be basically tested in the t-rex test menu.

I'm not sure what you should expect for trades for your WCS. It might be worth checking average values of each and make your decision from there. Maybe you can expect a similar condition JP, or perhaps get cash your way for one that's not fully working. It sounds like some people might be interested based on your offers. I wouldn't trade a JP for one, but JP is a grail theme for me.

As far as maintenance goes, I haven't found the t-rex to require much. I replaced the jaw frame and link assembly to remove slop in the old ones, but I haven't had to do too much to it over the years. Otherwise you're looking at similar maintenance to any other game from the era. Things go wrong here and there and you fix them as you go.

2 weeks later
#4697 1 year ago
Quoted from tbaum:

Maybe it is just the time of year?

Better get 'em while they're hot! 10k by Christmas!

I can appreciate the distance a game is as a factor in whether or not the price is worth it. If a game you want is going for cheaper several states away, that's going to be a costly trip to pick it up or ship it without an in-person inspection. It may be worth a premium to get a game that's closer and available now. Those who wait patiently for great deals aren't playing the game they want in the mean-time!

I expect in time that we'll be able to get most of the parts needed to refresh a JP, so it might be ok to get a less than perfect example now if the price is right. Then determine if it's a keeper worth investing (i.e. wasting - with no intention of recouping in a future sale - for the fun of it) in for improvements. Plastics are available from CPR, and I think they'll have JP playfields at some point. Their new business model will result in the things they offer being perpetually available. If there's demand, ramps will probably eventually be made by someone. Repro translites are available. The cabinet artwork is relatively simplistic and would be possible to restore if skilled enough (or invest in services of others), or there are decals available from somewhere, I think. Toppers are available. Perhaps figure out the costs of the parts that are currently available that you'd want to replace on the one you're buying and see if you can haggle down accordingly.

Stock T-rex plastic parts are hard to come by if you get one that's not great, but I've made an improved-looking replacement that I hope to make more available for sale soon. It's not cheap, but this is not a cheap hobby.

1 week later
#4727 1 year ago

I think replacing the pteranadons with PAPO versions is a cheap-ish, but very nice upgrade. You're basically replacing bad-looking originals with some that look like the ones in JP3. There were no pteranadons in JP, so not sure they're in this game other than someone involved in the design of the game just wanted to add in a couple simple toys.

My preference is to stay away from adding in extra dinos, but if you do, always look for PAPO versions. A lot of them look like JP dinosaurs. You'll find pictures around of people adding in really bad looking dinos, but to each his/her own.

Do what you like and can afford, and don't expect to get your money back, and you'll be in a good spot. Oh, and make sure whatever you do is reversible, or you're likely to decrease the value of the game.

3 weeks later
#4781 1 year ago

Before investing in a topper, make sure your ceiling is high enough. The only time I've been able to install the topper is when I brought my game to a show. I'm not selling my topper, though.

#4789 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Teaser...[quoted image]

Some kind of ball trough sensors to replace the micro-switches?

#4792 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Topper light show?

That's looking like the ball trough to me. You can see the balls at the top. There's a green light per ball and some other kind of led. Is it perhaps an IR LED per ball? Does it turn green per ball when the ball is present and red when it's missing?

#4806 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Thank you for nice feedbacks!
I've got some inquiries about this board.
I can create few more, if demand is there (not dozens, it is really time consuming to build one).
Please contact me via PM.
Note: 12V is required from backbox or from external supply (in case you have many mods, extra supply is recommended anyway).

I'm in a similar situation with an arcade-related PCB I designed. I like having it for my own use, and have shared it with a couple others, but I have no desire to assemble and sell them to others because it's not worth it. You might find someone who is willing to partner with you to manage sales of kits or assembled versions, and you take a cut without the work.

I wouldn't do it, but another option would be to release the design and BOM publicly and let others deal with PCB manufacturing and assembly on their own, with no support.

Of course your 3rd option is just to tease us with something we can't have!

2 weeks later
#4836 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Hardtop?
CPR is repro of the original. I wonder if they'd sell a PF without art.

CPR's upcoming business model is going to be playfields on demand. If you get a design down that's conducive to their new process, I think they'll make whatever you want.

#4845 1 year ago

I'd be interested in seeing new PF art, but I certainly don't hate what's there currently. It would need to be something incredible for me to invest in an upgrade. It has a kind of simple comic book charm. I would be concerned about a more photo-realistic rendering being too dark.

1 week later
#4902 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Welcome to Pinside! I see your from Columbia, SC. FYI - There is a fun tournament and league scene there, and in Greenville and Charleston as well, and I usually show up at the tournaments and there are a bunch of other cool folks. Placed 27th in the state last year and 16th the year before, so you can see the scene and talent is growing quickly. (you can check the IFPA calendar for more on that if interested)
Regarding price, a lot of it is being at the right place a the right time. You can see Pinside says $2500-2900. That is assumed a fairly nice condition, fully working pin at a private sale if you can track one down that cheap. A retailer would charge more to cover their overhead, etc. Maybe $3500+. A fully restored JP would be even more.
Players condition (fully working with significant playfield and cabinet wear) I guess would be around 2k or less. It all depends on condition, so beaters are less. Boards or things needing repair or parts missing would make it a project which is the best deal if your handy with tools and a soldering iron.
Someone might say - I dare you to show me a nice JP for 2500-2900, but they made 9008, so deals do come along.

I'm not so bold as to say I dare you to show me a deal, but I would say that you're not likely going to find a deal on an online listing anywhere because if you're seeing it, then someone else has, too, and it's as good as sold. JP is a popular pin, even if there are plenty of them out there. Another factor is distance. One can be for sale at a good price across the country, and you're potentially better off paying more for the one down the street.

The best option is to get into a network of players/collectors and find one from someone who hasn't yet listed it. That has worked out better for me than chasing down listings. I let my acquaintances know what I'm looking for and I hopefully hear about one through that network. I haven't even personally networked with that many people, but even the few that I'm connected with have yielded good results.

#4924 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Just picked one up. Anyone sell a topper?

Make sure you have clearance above the game.

#4950 1 year ago

I recommend the firmer Clifty post sleeves over Titan silicone ones, unless Titan now offers harder sleeves. If you get soft, rubbery sleeves, there will be very frequent airballs. At least that was my experience.

1 week later
#4983 1 year ago
Quoted from outcida:

Hey guys! I am in the process of clearing out my mod parts inventory so once parts are gone I will be discontinuing mods and closing out the business. I am focusing on a new business venture and between that, my 9-5 and family, the mod business is just too much and something has to give. I'd like to sincerely thank all of you that have supported me! JP was always one of my favorite games and I'm glad I was able to help make it better for some of you.
I am currently working on 1 last batch of 10 functioning gate mods. Static gates have been discontinued. Smart Scoop Lights have been discontinued. I have a a few static raptor crates and small raptor crates left and will make one last run of moving raptor crates. I have some dock signs and t-rex scoop lights.

Not sure I would personally do it, but any considerations for making available the files for those with 3D printers? Maybe set up a patreon page where people cab donate to get access?

Also, perhaps someone like mezelmods would manufacture them and give you a cut? If you've got a proven product, there's probably a path forward where you can still earn from it, and make it available, even if you don't want to be directly involved in production.

1 week later
#5014 1 year ago