(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Garrett
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Topic index (key posts)

59 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (9 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (9 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (9 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (9 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (9 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (9 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (9 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (9 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (9 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2620 7 years ago

Just joined the JP club. My machine needs a lot of work and seeing the huge list of mods out there I can already see I'll be dumping buckets of cash into this one. Right off the bat I've got to fix an intermittent stuck flipper, missing a coin mech, broken button on service switch, and my back banner plastic is melted out of the shape. I think I'll be spending a good part of this weekend just figuring out what I need to get.

#2633 7 years ago
Quoted from phyreteam:

JP Original was 28.5", modern Stern is 30.5. Minor height change, but still usable.

I had the same confusion. This pinside post cleared it up for me. The manual says #535-5020-30 but apprently those were originally 28.5". You'd think that ending in -30 would mean 30" legs but guess not. The replacement 30.5" worked well for me anyways.

#2634 7 years ago
Quoted from pinaholic:

What's the going rate for a nice example?

Got one last week for 2k. Mine needs a flipper rebuild, full cleaning, some bulbs, one coin mech, and the "when dinosaurs ruled the earth" banner is a little melted and bent. Cabinet and play-field were acceptable 7/10. You see a lot of ebay for around 5K. I sort of wonder who's buying those.

#2644 7 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

That's a pretty good deal. I've seen a couple go for around $2300 - $2500. That's seems to be (IMO) where a really nice stock JP's ceiling is right now.

I got the machine home, plugged it in and noticed half my GI and back box lighting is out. Fuses were good and nothing on the GI line looked out of place or burnt. What a serious bummer. Was super regretting this deal for about 30 minutes then I decided to check all the plugs on the board. Yep, that was it. One wasn't fully connected. So relieved. ...Sorta. The GI reflector lights that light up the T-REX are still out. My machine had 70% LEDs including these so its not the bulbs. Haven't investigated further yet but it was an unexpected issue. While I thought I got a good deal I did somehow just spend $277 for this machine at pinball life. Planning to do a complete restore with mods but not going to mess with the machine until those parts arrive.

Does anyone sell repo stickers? Specifically that grass sticker directly below the T-REX? The ball hits that area so I'm sure everyone's machine is pretty worn there.

#2651 7 years ago

Call for Help:

I bought my machine knowing the right lower flipper gets stuck on during gameplay. I first thought this was a bad EOS fix but after reading Jurassic Park Flipper Hold Issue thread I quickly realized my issue wasn't so simple based on the way EOS works in this game. I have a different problem then that thread however.

The issue is when the lower right flipper gets activated it stays activated until the end of the ball. Afterwards the game drops power to the flippers and the flipper returns home. As soon as I press the right flipper again though its stuck back on. The coil is definitely active while its stuck on because I can't push the flipper down manually.

After reading that other JP flipper thread I took a look at the flipper control board and noticed mine looked kind of crusty. Take a look at the photo... what are those resistors added to those two chips doing? Theres no way thats factory right? Did I get a dodgy hacked up FCB? Any ideas what I should try next? I can confirm the board LEDs light up when the cabinet buttons are pressed and the stuck flipper LED doesn't stay on even though the flipper is still active. I'm worried my simple flipper rebuild has turned into larger board problems.

Anyone have any ideas?

Another minor thing I noticed and not sure if its common on JP but the DMD seems very noisy. I read some posts that buying a new one fixes this on some games but theres nothing seemingly wrong with my display. It just makes a lot of electronic noise. Common or Not on JP?

jp_fcb_photo.jpgjp_fcb_photo.jpg

#2657 7 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

With the DE Deger flipper board, if the diode on the flipper coil is bad, broken at one end, or missing entirely, this is exactly what happens.
The flipper will stay up until the power is cut to that circuit.
Check the diode on that flipper coil.
RussMyers

Thank you. I will check this closely tonight. I have a flipper rebuild kit on it's way but I don't believe it includes the diodes. I'll look it up and order some. My machine didn't include a manual but I've ordered one. I've taken a look at the one on IPDB but the schematics are hard to read in PDF form for me.

Quoted from markp99:

Hey Time,
As for 60Hz hum... Yep, apparently a very typical DE sound board issue, and was very prevalent on my JP. Is very likely related to ground loop issues. The common fix is to "float" the sound board OFF the backboard ground plate. This is pretty simple, actually and reduced the hum by 90% on my machine.
All you need to do is place nylon washers under the mounting screw heads to break the connection with back plate ground. There are no traces on the backside of the sound board at the mtg screw points (at least on my machine), so no need to insert washers behind the board itself.
Good luck!

Thanks, I'll try that. I noticed last night my GI plug on the power supply board was yellow and sorta melted on one side. I think this is whats casing my GI problems. I touched around there looking for lose wires and noticed the plug was very hot. Kind of wondering if I should pull out the boards out and check every connection while I'm at it.

#2659 7 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

With the DE Deger flipper board, if the diode on the flipper coil is bad, broken at one end, or missing entirely, this is exactly what happens.
The flipper will stay up until the power is cut to that circuit.
Check the diode on that flipper coil.
RussMyers

This was exactly it! Thank you! I bought a diode at Radio Shack tonight to install but just messing with the original one on the coil seemed to fix the issue for now. So glad this turned out to be simple.

3 months later
#2985 7 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I think for right now I will just keep the connector the same style. I understand that this is an IDC connector but how do I figure out which size? Also on greatplains website I only can find this type of connector in kits. Is there somewhere that tells the part numbers of all the different connectors?

That's funny, this is exactly the same issue I'm fixing on me JP tonight.

I have a question about the Data East power board. I was going to fix a burned up header and noticed the back side of this board looks pretty weird. All wavy. Did this thing overheat? Also is it normal to have that bridge rectifier not mounted directly to the board? This is only my second pin and I'm bumbling my way through electronics repair. If this repair doesn't work, what are my options for drop in replacement boards on JP?

IMG_3867 (resized).JPGIMG_3867 (resized).JPG

#2987 7 years ago

Learned tonight the in lane lamps "Lite ADV X" and "Lite Dock" are wired to GI. When I discovered this I thought my machine is funky. Thats kind of strange no? But that seems to be what the book says and youtube videos of others machines show the same thing.

Been have a problem with GI. I changed the molex connector on the switch board and cleaned the headers. Got some extra GI working but not everything. Such a bummer. Really thought I'd have my JP working tonight. Thinking I'll try changing the header pins tomorrow night.

#2998 7 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Everything is new and working great now and all my GI started working, everything in the back box and the back part of the PF also!

Discovered I was just terrible at pressing the wires through those pass through connectors. Didn't help my $5 Harbor Freight digital multi-meter's continuity check wasn't testing continuity properly. Discovered that after wasting 45 minutes chasing nothing. But did eventually find I had some real connectivity issues. Guess I don't have the right push down tool for those pass through connectors. Some connections were very unstable. Really jammed them in and got all my GI working. I think I'll be fighting those connections later though. Wish I would have ordered Molex with crimp pins. I'll know what to order next time.

IMG_3868 (resized).JPGIMG_3868 (resized).JPG
IMG_3869 (resized).JPGIMG_3869 (resized).JPG

Previous owner put red and blue LED GI lights facing the T-REX. I kind of like it. They were heat shrunk to the connector which I thought was odd. Not sure how common that is but I removed it and added reflectors instead. Reflectors do nothing with the LED light but guessing the machine would have originally had those.

#3006 7 years ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

Does anyone know when the topper lights illuminate during the game? I get the flashers to work during diagnostics but there are three bulbs between the two flashers that never seem to come on and they should be working. Just trying to figure out if I have a problem or if I'm just not noticing them light up. Thank you!

Mine are connected to GI. Green and Green + White line.

Funny my flashers weren't working up there but then it looks like mine never had a topper either. Screw holes are pre-drilled but never screwed into. On my machine the flashers didn't have bulbs in side the caps. Guess this is how the game came? So... dumb question but do you have bulbs under the other caps?

4 weeks later
#3063 7 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

These blades suck. We are all waiting on hassanchop to make some nice ones.

Would also be interested in some blades for my JP. I liked the ones on that other thread but interested if there are other options too. Though I'm worried about durability because my inner cabinet is pretty scratched up from playfield lifting.

3 weeks later
#3169 7 years ago

Well my DMD crapped out tonight. Turned on the machine to play a game and fixed a dead bulb in the coin eject housing. All of the sudden the DMD is dead with just weird messed up and faded lines. I suspected it was on its way out since I got the machine. Bummer. But now I'm not 100% sure. Its displaying a single line on the left side.

What seems weird is that all my CPU controlled lights are also out now. That wouldn't be connect to DMD right? Flashers, GI, and game play seems fine. Just not inert lamps. Did I blow something?

Checked my voltage coming into the display:

Driver: 5v line = 5.16v
DMD Power:

110v = 115
98v = 92.6
5v = 5
12v = 0 (Apparently Normal)
68v = 69.7

On the power supply the test connections for +12v = 11.8 || -12v = -14.3. Those seem within tolerances right? Still no insert lights... Still investigating...

This is what I'm looking at:
IMG_4978 (resized).JPGIMG_4978 (resized).JPG

#3170 7 years ago

Its a bummer ColorDMD doesn't make a JP LED display yet. They do for Apollo 13 though, sort of wondering if I could drop in my DMD from that game and order a LED display for Apollo. Anyone know if 128 x 32 Sega display is direct replacement on our JPs?

#3181 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Since your CPU controlled insert lamps are also out, the DMD can be related to this as well if it is a Babcock DMD. Both need the 18 volts which is supplied from one of the 2 bridge rectifiers (don't recall which one) that is mounted directly to the backbox at the bottom left just below the power supply. These 2 bridge rectifiers are protected by a fuse on each. It is possible that it is just a fuse. If you replace the bad 5 amp fuse and it still blows out, then you can measure your bridge rectifier for that fuse and likely you'll find it is shorted from one of the AC inputs to either the output + or - pin.

Well that was it. Never checked those fuses back there and the bottom one was blown. Popped in the fuse from upper slot and lights and DMD are back. Great thanks! And of course these are the fues I don't have in my kit... As always.

Thanks again!

1 week later
#3205 6 years ago

1 (resized).png1 (resized).png
I was cleaning last night and noticed a post on the right side (in red) that's not on the left. I don't seem to have rubber on this post either. The left side has a small hole for a post but looks like one was never installed. Are your machines the same way?

2 (resized).png2 (resized).png
Anyone have problems with these lamp sockets getting really hot? I had LED's in there and both were getting super hot. Melting plastic smell hot. I haven't explored yet but wondering if anyone else has seen issues like that.

1 month later
#3247 6 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

shouldn't get hot with led. Make sure contacts have a good connection, i.e no corrosion or loose wire. I would also make sure the wires on the led and socket are adjusted to properly touch the contacts as less metal = increased resistance. If the socket isn't holding the bulbs tight, it could be making less contact. Also maybe test the leds somewhere else or replace...they could be having an issue themselves.

LED's weren't the issue. I did notice though they were super bright compared to the same LEDs in the other sockets. Pulled out the multi-meter and found Yellow-Green is supplying 15.2v - 17.7v! I'm measuring 3-3.2v on the other lamp sockets. So that's a problem. What would cause Yellow-Green to be such high voltage? I've confirmed this voltage at the header pins on the CPU board without the connector attached. So that would make be believe I don't have a short long the yellow-green wire since its not plugged in. Any ideas?

I also checked my power supply board's test contacts:

12v = 11.5v
-12v = -14.7v
5v = 5.06v

2 months later
#3417 6 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Is there a more accurate rubber list? I know some of mine are incorrect, as I ordered per the manual, but putting them on, realized that changes had been made post-manual creation. Would love to see someone who knows theirs is correct, post placement and correct sizes of the rubbers.

Did we ever get an actual list of rubber sizes for JP? I'd like to test out some translucent silicone rubber on the slingshots but not really sure how to measure rubbers. Looks like the slingshots could be 3" or 3.5". Anyone know the correct size? woody24 what size super bands you ended up putting on and are they working for you?

18486146_10211655903946716_5554798603318082185_n (resized).jpg18486146_10211655903946716_5554798603318082185_n (resized).jpg

1 month later
#3630 6 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

I am having a problem getting my JP playfield incline set. I have 30.5 inch legs all around and with the leg levelers on the front set as low as they can go (jam nuts removed and levelers bottomed out on leg) and the rear levelers set as high as they can go (just one turn of threads above leg material) I can only get 7 degrees of incline. I would like to find out if this is normal or maybe the front legs should be the shorter 28 inch variety? Yes, my floor is level, I checked that first. I am not trusting the built in levels, I am using something better. I am measuring directly on the playfield surface. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

I too am looking for input on this. How are your games leveled? What should it be? I have mine at what seems like is the max incline I can get but my ball seems sorta slow and lazily comes down the playfield some of the time.

#3632 6 years ago

My game is level at the playfeild left and right. I was main curious what slop you guys are running JP on and if your games seems slower compared to others. My rear leg levelers are fully extended and my fronts are as compressed as it seems possible but yet the slop still seems pretty flat. I'll have to measure the actual number later on tonight. I've got A13 right next to JP and that game has no problem with setting a high and fast slop. My first thought is maybe I have the wrong legs in the front. They're 500-5921-50 30.5" square

#3653 6 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Someone on FB found a NIB JP

Wonder if he'll be selling it. Don't know what it's worth but I'd be interested in upgrading my JP with a NIB example. Would it be sacrilegious to unbox this unicorn and play this thing? I'm assuming some restoration would be needed on the boards.

1 week later
#3666 6 years ago
Quoted from waspinat0r:

I'm in the club! This game is so much more fun than I even anticipated!! Does anyone have any advice on how to do the yellow/black "caution" paint/powder thing that folks are doing? I really like it! (Or any other really good cosmetic things I can do/add to the game?)

I bought 6" caution tape for mine so I could reverse it some day if I wanted. I haven't installed it yet but have confirmed this is large enough to cover rails and lock down bar. The reviews seem to suggest this tape won't stick well but I put a sample peice on my lock down bar and it was plenty sticky for the application. This is what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007L4AOZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

1 week later
#3699 6 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Has anyone replaced the black post rubber with colored rubber? If so can you post a picture, in the middle of a complete tear down and cant decided what color to purchase. Thanks.

File_000 (resized).jpegFile_000 (resized).jpeg

I could never decide if I liked yellow or green better. I went with both. I'm about to install green rubber everywhere so I'll probably swap back to all yellow or maybe yellow orange once I do that.

1 month later
#3784 6 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

I guess I'll take your $15... lol
I didn't think there was much demand for them. If there is, I can certainly make one.

+1 here for static using existing hole - Seeing 20 others asking there's clearly demand

5 months later
#4385 5 years ago

Anyone know where I can get the lamp holders for these? They seem like they're riveted on through the plastic housing and different from what I see at pinball life. Mine are melted and the bulbs wont stay put.

IMG_9607 (resized).JPGIMG_9607 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#4438 5 years ago

Referring to https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/65#post-3700301

I finally got around to fixing my scoop post lamps. The original bulbs had melted the sockets slightly and new bulbs would no longer stay in the sockets firmly. I would end up having to go fishing for fallen bulbs every few games or so. I traced the melted sockets as the source of frying a transistor on the lamp matrix too. I fixed that previously but I've had two of these sockets disconnected since.

So after about a year I've finally fixed these socketsSo after about a year I've finally fixed these socketsSo after about a year I've finally fixed these sockets

Drilling out the rivetsDrilling out the rivetsDrilling out the rivets

All new and prettyAll new and prettyAfter poping new rivets back in, all new & pretty. This is the socket part I'm using #A-12887: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=294

The original wire connectors were too lose on these replacement sockets so I had to solder the wires in. I may regret that later on but at least I know they won't come unpluggedThe original wire connectors were too lose on these replacement sockets so I had to solder the wires in. I may regret that later on but at least I know they won't come unpluggedThe original wire connectors were too lose on these replacement sockets so I had to solder the wires in. I may regret that later on but at least I know they won't come unplugged

I checked the wiring about six times before soldering. Removing the solder on here will be a nightmareI checked the wiring about six times before soldering. Removing the solder on here will be a nightmareI checked the wiring about six times before soldering. Removing the solder on here will be a nightmare

I also changed out my cheap PBL rubber caps with ones much more like the original. I'm using the thick rubber caps over my LEDs. I also changed out my cheap PBL rubber caps with ones much more like the original. I'm using the thick rubber caps over my LEDs. I also changed out my cheap PBL rubber caps with ones much more like the original. I'm using the thick rubber caps over my LEDs.

Old caps on the left, new thicker caps on the rightOld caps on the left, new thicker caps on the rightOld caps on the left, new thicker caps on the right

I replaced 4 of the 6 sockets. I wasn't having trouble with the remaining original sockets. The job was simple enough so I'll likely order more sockets next time I order parts from PBLI replaced 4 of the 6 sockets. I wasn't having trouble with the remaining original sockets. The job was simple enough so I'll likely order more sockets next time I order parts from PBLI replaced 4 of the 6 sockets. I wasn't having trouble with the remaining original sockets. The job was simple enough so I'll likely order more sockets next time I order parts from PBL

keywords: melted lamp socket, bulb falling out, #555 control room

Played a few games and the bulbs are holding strong in their new sockets. Anyways, just an FYI post in case anyone else is having this problem.

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