(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,290 posts
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  • Latest reply 56 minutes ago by Neal_W
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#958 4 years ago

Thanks for the code update, Chad! Looking forward to it!

#1034 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I have this problem. Does anyone have a solution?

Tweak (bend) the two wireforms so that they knock the ball down to the inlane instead of back and over the plastic. I had this problem too and once I bent them it has never been an issue again.

#1064 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Anyone have this kind of issue with their Cliffys?

I use a lot of Cliffy protectors, both on my games at home and on location. (I use Mantis protectors too, sometimes both Cliffy and Mantis together.) Cliff's protectors are great and I'll continue to use them, but in this case the best solution is a Mantis protector for the Control Room. My JP is on location and has been on location for about 1.5 years in the time that I've owned it. It has thousands of games on it during that time. It has Cliffy protectors on the Bunker and Power Shed, Mantis on the Control Room. They've held up great in this combination with no damage to the game or the protectors (both Cliffy and Mantis).

#1085 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

What's happening now is that the EOS is being bypassed (obviously). The EOS switch tells the game to put the coil in to low power hold mode. As it is, you're pouring full power into the flipper all the time, and that's bad.

True and false. DE flippers from this period are solid state electronic. They automatically switch to low power whether or not an EOS switch is present (same as Williams Fliptronics.) The only thing the EOS does is allow the flipper board to REAPPLY high power if a flipper gets hit down. Soldering the EOS switches together will not hurt anything. Your advice is correct for older games without solid state flipper control, you don't want to bypass the EOS in any circumstance with those games.

The wires were probably soldered together because early DE flipper boards had an annoying design defect where the flippers would not work if the EOS was not making good contact. It causes problems because a flaky or broken EOS would make the flippers not work at all. DE released a service bulletin (#54) to show how to modify the existing flipper board. Or you can use a later flipper board as long as it supports at least 3 flippers.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

#1112 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

I haven't been able to get this to work.

I've been able to get it to work coming out of diagnostics without playing a game first. I'll hold down the trigger before exiting, keep it held down until the game goes past the version info screens and into attract mode. T-Rex never moves.

#1115 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

You just have to have one game in your audit. Then it should work anytime thereafter.

Ahh, I misunderstood your previous comment. I thought you meant it only worked after you had played one game each time the game was booted. I didn't realize it was after one game was on the books it works every time.

1 week later
#1205 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

How does one force the ball to stay on the wire crossover ramp?

I had the same problem with mine and it was two issues:

1) Incorrect flipper coils. Mine were too strong. I changed them to the coils recommended in the manual.

2) My transformer was incorrectly jumpered and was sending too much voltage to the coils.

Between these two issues my flippers were way too strong and balls would fly off the crossover.

#1253 4 years ago

Had our annual tournament last night and JP was in the lineup sporting the new 6.0 unofficial code. I had it set on IFPA tournament mode so Stampede was still the first mode. I got several comments on the changes and didn't hear anything negative. The new random skill shot threw off a few people. The extended Raptor Pit save time was appreciated. And I did get a couple comments on the LAH promo since nobody had seen it before.

#1321 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know what they plug in to?

Unused, both of them.

1 week later
#1371 4 years ago

JB Weld won't hold for pinball stuff. Take it to a local welding or machine shop, they'll probably do it quickly and cheaply. The ramps, rails, etc. in pins are cheap, thin staniless steel. Take it to someone that has the experience and equipment to weld it correctly.

#1408 4 years ago

F1-F4 on the PPB are all for the general illumination. So there is going to be continuity between the pins as they are the AC output from the transformer, they run through a fuse, then out to the rest of the game. You most likely have a short somewhere after fuse F1. If I'm reading my schematics correctly, fuse F1 goes to pin 9 on PPB connector J5. This is the white/violet wire that then goes to the playfield. So look for problems on the white/violet string on the PF.

#1441 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I think if you just turned it so it was striking the cabinet rather than the cash box divider, it would help a lot.

This does help. But one thing you are fighting with the DE knockers is they are 20v. WMS used 50v. The location of WMS knockers is one reason they sound so great, the other reason is they powered them with enough kick to really make them whack. You're not going to get a DE knocker to sound right unless you power it with 50v.

2 weeks later
#1529 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - suggestions on how to keep an absolutely ripped ramp shot from falling off the wireframe?

Did you see my advice in Post #1205:

I had the same problem with mine and it was two issues:

1) Incorrect flipper coils. Mine were too strong. I changed them to the coils recommended in the manual.

2) My transformer was incorrectly jumpered and was sending too much voltage to the coils.

Between these two issues my flippers were way too strong and balls would fly off the crossover.

I've owned two different JPs. With the game set at 6.5 degrees, the correct coils and voltage, I've never had a ball fly off the wireform. Check the above and check the how the diverter is set so that you aren't getting a bounce there when it transitions to the wireform.

4 weeks later
#1610 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone know about the skill shot and waiting vs doing it quick being more points?

As aobrien5 stated, no difference in points. The dino does speed up though if you wait.

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