Thats there to stop the ball from getting stuck in case of an "airball"
Quoted from woody24:
Just finished my "shop" job. Replaced a lot of parts. It's almost like new again. Flippers are strong. Almost too strong. But have a couple issues that developed after I did my shop job, and wondered if you guys could help me out. Maybe I need to start a new thread?
The machine worked before I started working on it, so I know I must have bumped something loose.
The Right VUK and the Autoplunger don't work. I tried to look in the manual to see if I could track down some points of contacts. It appears that they both share a common cable. But I really don't know where to look for the issues. I reflowed solder on both coils, but nothing.
Could someone take a photo of their VUK coil? Or tell me which wire goes to which end. I may have put the wires on backwards. It was the only coil I forgot to take a photo of before I took it off to rebuild the VUK.
I'm guessing the VUK and autoplunger is a connected issues.
But as I was testing out the game, the left flipper died on me. It was almost like I wasn't pushing the flipper button in far enough, or was making very weak connections. Visual inspection shows the flipper button leaf switch is making full connection. I reflowed solder on the coil itself. But was acting like the batteries dieing in a flashlight. Is this a sign of a coil going bad? Or could it be something else?
Check the "eos" switch and make sure it's clean and making good contact when the flipper is at rest.
They will stop working if that contact gets dirty.
I'd be more than happy to donate for time and materials to get the new updated roms since I don't have a burner.
Thanks Chad! !
I'm hoping it goes up, I still struggle to break 200m most games lol.
I definitely need to spend more time playing
His right wire form is different than mine as well. Always wished I could add a rubber stop, so it doesn't shoot out the side and over the sling plastic.
And how in the world do you make the trex shot with that post. Seems like it'd be near impossible.
What do you mean, stays in stampede mode? When you shoot the scoop does it not start the mode?
I used two 7LED strips from comet, and mounted them behind the upper plastic with the wording. Then I made extension harnesses and soldered them in. This way the playfield can be pulled forward or up as needed without having to disconnect them.
It's not perfect, since the wording being lit isn't even. Doing it over I'd go with a longer single strip of LEDs.
Mine has a prop leg, and if I need it pulled forward I rest it on the coil bracket.
I have my EBs off. They still light like they are supposed to, it just awards 10m.
Mine has done it occasionally as well. More than likely it's what infinite and sula posted. Your trough switch
Sounds like the sound board is booting/rebooting when it makes the noise like that.
Speaking of Chad's code, was looking to make the game a little more challenging so I turned off raptor freeze.
I noticed that it also turns off the start of ball "ball save" too, but that the shoot again light still flashes at the start of the turn like normal.
Just a "bug"?
Is there a way to keep the start of ball ball save working, but not the save from the raptor pit? Maybe I just missed it in the settings
Better double check that transistor as well. Coils usually don't burn up on their own.
As for the PBB board. If you're decent at soldering it'd be much cheaper and easier to fix the board than buy new.
Quoted from Bugsy:
I'm having a strange issue on my JP. Over the weekend my dad and I moved a few games around and rearranged the game room. We went to turn on the game this evening after the move and the raptor pit coil locks on immediately. We took the CPU board off and tested all the transistors, and they all checked out fine.
With the CPU board off we tested the game again, and the raptor pit coil still locks on. We were able to trace the wires via the schematic to J8 on the power supply board. We disconnected that and tested it, and the coil did NOT lock on. So I think we've at least figured out it's not on the CPU board, and instead on the power board.
What we are thinking (after further reading of the schematic) is that Q4 on the power board might be bad. Anyone know how to test that transistor? It's bigger than a normal transistor, TIP36C. I just checked it quickly to compare to the neighboring transistors and it tested similarly to the others.
We have not checked the coil itself. Could the diode on the coil fail and lead to it locking on like that?
Edit: I looked up how to test a TIP36C and Q3, Q4, and Q5 and they all tested bad. Q1 and Q2 tested as they should and seemed fine. Seems odd that three of those would go out simultaneously.
Very strange that all 3 failed. If they did, I'd think more than just one coil would be locked on.
I need to review the schematic, but doesn't j8 supply the power to the coils not the ground? Sounds like you have a short to ground in the wiring, possibly something got jostled in the move and pinched?
Quoted from C65Mustang:
I saw that mentioned in a video from TNT amusements about the flashers. I didn't account for those but instead just placed the standard #44 bulbs in there. I got some flashers and tried that but didn't see any flashing on my head box. I wonder if this flashing went away with ChadH Ver 6 code. I might be way off on that guess but its just a thought. Anyone else know more about this?
The bulbs themselves flash with a make or break element that moves with heat. They aren't controlled lamps
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