(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,271 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#680 4 years ago

Thats there to stop the ball from getting stuck in case of an "airball"

1 week later
#729 4 years ago

JP with cointaker LEDs


I can take better shots of the playfield tonight if needed. I will say this, they are bright!

#753 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Just finished my "shop" job. Replaced a lot of parts. It's almost like new again. Flippers are strong. Almost too strong. But have a couple issues that developed after I did my shop job, and wondered if you guys could help me out. Maybe I need to start a new thread?
The machine worked before I started working on it, so I know I must have bumped something loose.
The Right VUK and the Autoplunger don't work. I tried to look in the manual to see if I could track down some points of contacts. It appears that they both share a common cable. But I really don't know where to look for the issues. I reflowed solder on both coils, but nothing.
Could someone take a photo of their VUK coil? Or tell me which wire goes to which end. I may have put the wires on backwards. It was the only coil I forgot to take a photo of before I took it off to rebuild the VUK.
I'm guessing the VUK and autoplunger is a connected issues.
But as I was testing out the game, the left flipper died on me. It was almost like I wasn't pushing the flipper button in far enough, or was making very weak connections. Visual inspection shows the flipper button leaf switch is making full connection. I reflowed solder on the coil itself. But was acting like the batteries dieing in a flashlight. Is this a sign of a coil going bad? Or could it be something else?

Check the "eos" switch and make sure it's clean and making good contact when the flipper is at rest.

They will stop working if that contact gets dirty.

#768 4 years ago

Glad you got it working. Sometimes it's the simplest of things

1 week later
#809 4 years ago

Not everyone knows/cares about the difference.

I've had a couple people see my JP and immediately associate it with the newest movie.

2 months later
#959 4 years ago

I'd be more than happy to donate for time and materials to get the new updated roms since I don't have a burner.

Thanks Chad! !

#995 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

In attract mode should any inserts be lit. Both inlanes on mine are on. Thinking bad transistor

Both in-lanes are tied to the GI

#1005 4 years ago

I'm hoping it goes up, I still struggle to break 200m most games lol.

I definitely need to spend more time playing

#1022 4 years ago

His right wire form is different than mine as well. Always wished I could add a rubber stop, so it doesn't shoot out the side and over the sling plastic.

And how in the world do you make the trex shot with that post. Seems like it'd be near impossible.


#1031 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I put post rubbers on my prongs. They hold there placement. Also stops balls from bouncing out over the right slingshot instead of going down the lane.

How far up/down

#1049 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Is the egg captive ball supposed to be ceramic? I never knew that.

No, the powerball is just a mod

#1055 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

And it looks hella good if you toss it in a tumbler for a little bit, gives it a greyish speckled egg look...mine looks awesome.

Nice idea, may have to do that with mine

1 month later
#1375 4 years ago

What do you mean, stays in stampede mode? When you shoot the scoop does it not start the mode?

1 month later
#1572 4 years ago

I used two 7LED strips from comet, and mounted them behind the upper plastic with the wording. Then I made extension harnesses and soldered them in. This way the playfield can be pulled forward or up as needed without having to disconnect them.

It's not perfect, since the wording being lit isn't even. Doing it over I'd go with a longer single strip of LEDs.


1 week later
#1584 4 years ago

1500 would be a great deal.

#1603 4 years ago

I believe the egg shot spotting the targets is new as well

#1606 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Does it? I didn't know the new did that too...nice!

Just went and checked the rule sheet, it does.

1 week later
#1649 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Shot with my Sony camera at 60fps. Running Chad's code update. Turned out nice! Watch the whole thing, interesting ending.
» YouTube video

Interesting to see different players strategy and how they make their shots.

That last bounce was a doozy

3 weeks later
#1706 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I cant die playing a pinball machine though....

Where is the fun in that?

Now that I have my collection mostly where I want it, I'm getting back into my camaro myself.

#1722 3 years ago

Mine has a prop leg, and if I need it pulled forward I rest it on the coil bracket.

1 month later
#2022 3 years ago

I have my EBs off. They still light like they are supposed to, it just awards 10m.

Normal operation.

#2026 3 years ago


#2037 3 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

It's needed to operate the backbox coffin lock.


How does that help get access to the boards though?

4 weeks later
#2135 3 years ago
Quoted from Cobra:

Anyone have any idea why the solenoids for the VUK and ball launch would stop firing ? I have checked the fuses.

Are your other 50v coils still firing?

2 weeks later
#2170 3 years ago

Did it boot into attract mode otherwise?

1 week later
#2224 3 years ago

Mine has done it occasionally as well. More than likely it's what infinite and sula posted. Your trough switch

1 week later
#2278 3 years ago


#2280 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

Yeah, its not bad. Its an added difficulty... you just have to pay attention to that raptor pit hit a little closer.

At least it almost always has the ball save

1 month later
#2444 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Wondering what you other owners think about removing the lights above the scoops. I'm experimenting with just lighting the scoops themselves.

That looks good. I like that a lot better than the other scoop light mod imo.

#2464 3 years ago

I used 2 7" white led strips from comet, spaced evenly and attached with the velcro.

Then made and soldered in an extension harness with a disconnect to the playfield GI. That way the pf can nearly be pulled all the way out without stretching, or removed with a quick disconnect.

2 weeks later
#2489 3 years ago

Sounds like the sound board is booting/rebooting when it makes the noise like that.

2 months later
#2738 3 years ago

Speaking of Chad's code, was looking to make the game a little more challenging so I turned off raptor freeze.

I noticed that it also turns off the start of ball "ball save" too, but that the shoot again light still flashes at the start of the turn like normal.

Just a "bug"?

Is there a way to keep the start of ball ball save working, but not the save from the raptor pit? Maybe I just missed it in the settings

3 weeks later
#2842 3 years ago

Better double check that transistor as well. Coils usually don't burn up on their own.

As for the PBB board. If you're decent at soldering it'd be much cheaper and easier to fix the board than buy new.

#2846 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

OR send it to John Wort, he does great work at a very reasonable price.

That is a viable option as well

#2856 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I'm having a strange issue on my JP. Over the weekend my dad and I moved a few games around and rearranged the game room. We went to turn on the game this evening after the move and the raptor pit coil locks on immediately. We took the CPU board off and tested all the transistors, and they all checked out fine.
With the CPU board off we tested the game again, and the raptor pit coil still locks on. We were able to trace the wires via the schematic to J8 on the power supply board. We disconnected that and tested it, and the coil did NOT lock on. So I think we've at least figured out it's not on the CPU board, and instead on the power board.
What we are thinking (after further reading of the schematic) is that Q4 on the power board might be bad. Anyone know how to test that transistor? It's bigger than a normal transistor, TIP36C. I just checked it quickly to compare to the neighboring transistors and it tested similarly to the others.
We have not checked the coil itself. Could the diode on the coil fail and lead to it locking on like that?
Edit: I looked up how to test a TIP36C and Q3, Q4, and Q5 and they all tested bad. Q1 and Q2 tested as they should and seemed fine. Seems odd that three of those would go out simultaneously.

Very strange that all 3 failed. If they did, I'd think more than just one coil would be locked on.

I need to review the schematic, but doesn't j8 supply the power to the coils not the ground? Sounds like you have a short to ground in the wiring, possibly something got jostled in the move and pinched?

2 months later
#3057 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I saw that mentioned in a video from TNT amusements about the flashers. I didn't account for those but instead just placed the standard #44 bulbs in there. I got some flashers and tried that but didn't see any flashing on my head box. I wonder if this flashing went away with ChadH Ver 6 code. I might be way off on that guess but its just a thought. Anyone else know more about this?

The bulbs themselves flash with a make or break element that moves with heat. They aren't controlled lamps

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