(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

5 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by JohnJN
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)

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#4652 1 year ago

I want to join the Jurassic Park club and am looking to trade a WCS I fixed up really nicely. The WCS was my first pin, and there were a few extra things I had to fix I wasn't expecting to have to fix due to a lack of knowledge on my part. What should I be looking at in a Jurassic Park machine other than the usual, everything works, playfield not scratched up, basic condition, etc. Is there anything specific I should look out for? I'm guessing the TREX being fully functional is at the top of the list. I have had 3 offers in the few hours I've had it up, but have seen no pictures. One is advertised as "players condition", another is missing the TREX and main ramp, and another is fully functional but "the ball won't go down the TREX shoot". Just how hard is it to get the TREX working? Is this a maintenance heavy machine?

Thanks and having a lot of fun reading through 4,651 posts on a single pinball machine. Ain't the internet grand?

#4663 1 year ago

What would you guys value this "Players Condition" Jurassic Park at assuming everything (including the TREX) worked https://imgur.com/a/iprIrEA If I traded for something in this condition would I have a hard time selling it?

2 weeks later
#4695 1 year ago
Quoted from tbaum:

Thanks this is a really informative reply - I really appreciate it. I'm not as well-versed on the ins and outs of JP so this was really helpful. Seems like a bit of an overpay, with a lot of possible problems. But it can also be hard to get games where I am. I'll think on it. Trying to not let me desire for the title push me to overpay for a machine that will give me headaches.

IMO the JP machines on the market right now all seem to be overpriced. I PM'd the last few people who got one and the going rate for a nice one (shopped, no major problems, decent condition, new LEDs) seems to be around $2,800. Those are the ones that actually sold. I'm sure one will pop up at a decent price if you give it time. I'm playing the waiting game too.

1 week later
#4733 1 year ago
Quoted from jugood20:

Anyone know where I can find an NOS or original used JP translite?
Also, has anyone bought a repro translite off of EBay, seller name “classicarcades”? If so, how is the quality ?

There is a completely roached Jurassic Park on Facebook Marketplace around DC that has a decent looking Translight. Maybe a good source for some spare parts. $650. Roached is an understatement on the condition of the machine.

2 weeks later
#4769 1 year ago

I'm looking at my first "Project Pin"... a Jurassic Park. I have not pulled the trigger yet, but have seen some pictures and under all the filth the machine seems to be in good shape cosmetically. It blows fuses when the switches are plugged in (I could probably figure that out), is filthy, but looks like it would clean up nice. The only thing that is scaring me is the guy says that at start up (with the switches unplugged so it can be tested) the TREX only moves left and right... not up and down. I fully understand that the TREX is "unobtanium" right now. For those of you with a physical machine, does the same motor run the left to right and up and down action on that machine or is it a separate motor? I'm trying to figure out if it is potentially a gearbox issue, bent TREX issue, or motor issue. Sorry, no pictures at this time. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated...

3 weeks later
1 month later
#5005 11 months ago

Excited to finally join the club. Got help coming to bring it down to the basement tomorrow. These are built like tanks and weigh substantially more than normal pins. I did not realize they were 325 pounds until I picked it up! Anyways, little kids in my house are losing their mind. The dinosaur eats the ball! Came with the 6.0 code.

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#5011 11 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Nice grab to get one with a topper and metal deflector. How’s the PF? Do you mind sharing at least an approximate number for the purchase price? I know you’ve been wanting a JP for some time. I’m glad you found one.


There was a trade and cash involved but I put it at $3200 in value for the purpose of the trade. He also threw in a subwoofer and an undisclosed amount of cash towards my machine.

I would value a Jurassic park today at between $3000 for a decent one to $3500 for a really nice one. However, there is more demand than supply for this particular machine at the moment. I expect for prices on this machine to continue to creep up as demand beats supply. The 6.0 code is also great on this machine.

After I get it moved to the basement tonight, the only immediate change I'm looking at is the addition of the "Loopback Combo" signs.

The playfield is in good shape. Below is the description of the machine I got in a PM.


Here is all the info on the JP I can think of:
Backllit the "when dinosaurs ruled the earth" banner and the scene in the back. Added a DK Pinball 12v/5v power tap that connects to LED strips to light them. There are a few LEDs under the playfield, but I never did a complete swap.

There is a complete set of Pinbits plastic protectors, with most but not all in place. The ramp is not cracked. The plastic by the upper flipper is cracked, but is generally hard to notice. All the other plastics are good.

The JP topper is included. There is a small crack by one of the screw holes, but should attach fine. I did not use it because my ceiling is too low.

The saucer by the TRex was replaced with a red one, and added a red LED under. Really glows red now - original was the JP yellow.

The new ROMs are installed, which absolutely make the game better. Also has NVRAM, so no batteries needed. I have the loop combo mod, but they are not installed.

The playfield looks really good. The only minor wear is covered by the Cliffys.

Only malfunction - when a ball drops into the control room, about 1 in 25 times the switch does not activate. I replaced the switch but this had no effect. I think the ball does not roll over it perfectly, or too quickly for the switch to react.

The machine is in pretty good shape. I think the major issues are
1. the cracked plastic
2. the area the lockdown bar covers, which has some rust and wood scrapes, but is not visible when the lockdown bar is in place.
3. the front of the machine has some of the logo repainted from what I guess was a locking mech that once covered the coin door. Hard to notice it unless look closely.
4. There are some scratches on the cabinet and shooting mech. I would call it a very good players machine.

#5018 11 months ago

3 questions for you guys from a new owner:

1. How does the ramp diverter work? Is it supposed to be random or half one way and half another? It was feeding the ball to the right before I moved it and now seems to go mostly left after moving it. I'll take another look but any tips would be appreciated.

2. How does the menu work on this thing. The system is not self explanatory like it is on the 4 button Stern/Bally/Williams systems.

3. Is it possible to turn the sound off on the attract mode in this? I have the 6.0 code.

I know there have been a lot of questions on bulb types on this machine with no direct answer. I ordered 100 frosted natural white bullet, 100 frosted natural white wedge, and 25 natural white flasher bullets. I know this is way too many for the machine, but I'm hoping to have enough left over for the next machine to (fingers crossed Pinbot when one shows on the marketplace). In any case, I'll try and get an accurate count of what the final numbers are. I'm not trying to color match the LEDs.

#5023 11 months ago

For anybody who is looking to do touch up paint on this machine in the future, "Americana Gloss Enamel Black" is as close to an exact match as I've ever seen for the the blacks on the base cabinet of this machine. I would put it at a 99% match on this machine suitable for repainting every black except the black in the Jurassic Park Logo itself. From what I can tell, the blacks in the Jurassic Park Logo are actually printed over top of the red on the logo and uses an ever so different shade of black there. I'd put it at a 97% match there, where it would bother you if you knew it was there, but nobody else would probably notice. In any case, for touching up the cabinet and general, I'd be behind this stuff 100%. I'm not doing clear coat or anything fancy and have no idea how the stuff would react with that sort of thing. In any case, the paint is $2 or so and I picked mine up at the local Michaels.

Paint Touch Up Black.


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#5026 11 months ago

Got a cool 20 minute 2$ mod that I think makes a difference. As I was LEDing my new machine earlier today I noticed the pop bumper caps have a raised Jurassic Park logo on them. Cool! I don't know if that's standard, but mine do. I carefully painted the logo and now I have cool custom pop bumpers! Give it a shot!

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#5086 11 months ago

I made a mistake. I LED'd my machine and it looks fabulous, but I got the wrong type of bulbs for the flashers. They work, but they are 8 SMD flashers and it's like looking at a camera flash every time they go off. They are seizure inducing. I replaced most of them with the original bulbs. What type of flashers do you recommend putting in this game?

Also, I'm thinking about putting in a Jeep Mod. Do you know if there is a version that will interact with the flashers?

Put in a raptor figure above the kickback and am waiting on my loop combo mod (comes with the machine).
Really loving the game so far.

#5093 11 months ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I did the same thing with putting LED flashers in and not liking the blinding brightness. I popped off half of the diodes on each flasher.

That's genius! I'm going to try this tonight. You could even peel the flashers off one side so the diodes all face away from the player... Genius!

#5097 11 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

If all works out hoping to join this club tomorrow !


Fair warning... Jurassic Park is a 325 pound machine... as opposed to the 250ish pound Bally/Williams/Stern Standard.

#5111 11 months ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Those Mod Father mods are a fucking rip off. Sorry, but they just are. He's charging over $40 for the Pteranodon "mod", but on Amazon you can get them for $9.
amazon.com link »
And the Jeep on Amazon is only $23, as opposed to his $42 Jeep on his website, or $68 with the lights.
amazon.com link »
Seriously, you gotta be a sucker to buy these kinds of "mods" from him.

I am going to respectfully disagree.

I just dropped by Target and picked up a Jurassic Park Jeep. I spent the last 2 hours drilling out the headlights, putting in transparent plastic, rewiring the flashers through it, and getting it all working again. The results... are borderline passable but not nearly as nice as what is on the Modfather's website. I'm going to just order the jeep through him and pass this one to the kids. However... I do think I'm going to go with the kiddie action figure dolls for extra dinosaurs on my machine. I think they are at about the same scale as the T-REX

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#5117 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

loooooooool! That thing is ridiculously massive, fully hides the left orbit, flipper and half the shed!

Quoted from jorro:

There are smaller cheeper jeeps available at ali express or amazon!

I think the lesson learned here is... not the one from Target!

I ordered the Modfather Jeep, side art, and some trees. I like the Mattel Dinosaurs better than the ones off of other sites because they match the color scheme from the original move. A green raptor would just bug me. The spitter I picked up also looks much more like the one in the movies.

#5170 11 months ago

TREX no longer wants to move side to side. I figured out how to re-adjust him so he'll go up and down, but the motor does not seem to want to come on for left to right movement. I was in the machine earlier today and am assuming I bumped something loose but cannot figure it out. I hear a clicking noise in the small thing pictured on the green board but don't see movement when the TREX should be turning. I wanted to know if anybody had any tips before I disassembled the motor. Does anybody know what would cause the left right motor to fail but the up down and chomp to continue working? All the switches in the test mode work here.

Also... on a completely unrelated note... How do I adjust the volume?


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#5176 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I had the same issue on my JP with the T Rex not moving side to side. Removing that same relay and reheating/resoldering the joints on the PCB did the trick.

I'll give it a shot today... Do you know which connections on the PCB (presumably power control board) need to be checked?

#5177 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I'll give it a shot today... Do you know which connections on the PCB (presumably power control board) need to be checked?

Disaster. Still not luck with the dinosaur. But now my back right flipper is stuck on. When I turn on the machine it doesn't work but if I assist it the flipper stays in the up position and buzzes loudly. I had a working JP last night.... Grrr. It looks like I bumped loose a solder connection but when I re-connected it I had no luck. Any advice appreciated.

I took off the relay and reseated/reheated the connections but with no success. I hear the relay working so it obviously works. I took the motor out and it does not work even with no resistance. I used my very limited multimeter skills and got a tone between the relay and the two motor ports. I'm guessing its the motor itself but am open to suggestions.

Once I get everything working again that playfield is not coming back up.

#5178 11 months ago

Is there a way I can test the TREX motor and verify that it works or doesn't work? I'm thinking about hooking it up directly to something like a 9 volt battery... If this is a bad idea please let me know. I'm going to head in to the hardware store to get some more solder... would there be anything there more appropriate?

#5190 11 months ago

Fixed the flippers but side to side TREX is still broken. I took this off and reflowed the solder. I confirmed with my limited multimeter skills a clear connection through all circuits on the board, and between the motor and the blue wires here. I confirmed with a small battery that the motor will spin with direct DC current. What is the next troubleshooting step?


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#5192 11 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Sounds like stripped gears in the motor box.
Power good. Motor turns on. Continuity. No trex moving.
Unless maybe your voltage is way off? But you’d probably see other things.
I ran into this issue and replaced my motor. Some guys have rebuilt them but that’s a lot of work if it doesn’t work and you have to pull the trex again.

Here's the thing though... motor turns in and out of the gearbox when battery is applied. It does not turn during TREX diagnostics when house power is turned on... The motor works... there is connectivity to that circuit. What else do I need to check? Thanks for the advice!

#5216 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Guys, my JP has a wired problem. Sometimes the right flipper does not work.
It stops working for several seconds (top right flipper is fine) and then it works again.
Any idea how to check on it?
Thank you.

Lift up the playfield and look at the fancy contact switch immediately behind the flipper button. Make sure it is perfectly aligned with the button and run a Q-Tip between all the contacts. The mechanism for top and bottom flipper control is there. Top flipper is to the left and bottom flipper is to the right closest to the button. If this doesn't work, hit us back.

#5219 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

The right flipper is dead.
Here is the video.
While I press right flipper button, I can feel right flipper tried to flip. But it seems the power is not enough push the flipper. If I use my hand to assist (push) right flipper slightly, it will flip. I used multimeter to measure left and right coil, both have the same voltage while I press each flipper button.
Should I get a new coil or a new rebuild kit? Thank you

I had a similar issue with my upper right flipper. My symptom was the the flipper wouldn't flip unless I gave it an assist, but once I gave it an assist it was stuck in the up position. What I figured out was that the last time I had lifted the playfield and then put it back down I had bent the mechanism for the flipper somehow. After bending it back, it worked perfectly. Did your symptoms start immediately after lifting and lowering the playfield? If so, take a close look at the contacts here and see if they are bent out of shape. Do you feel a buzzing from the flippers even when not pressing the flippers? If it only is coming from one, try throwing some paper between the contacts to make it stop. If it stops, then the contacts are your issue and it's a quick bend fix.

Picture taken from an open coin door.

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#5229 11 months ago

Does anybody know where the Shaker Motor Board is physically located within the machine? Board 520-5065-00. Still troubleshooting my left/right motor on my TREX. I believe the motor gets its power from this board. I when I hooked the left right motor up to the up down power source and did the TREX diagnostics, it moved, so I know the motor is good. I reflowed the solder in the board attached in the picture with no effects. I also tried replacing the wire between the wire and this board with no effect.

Other troubleshooting steps appreciated.

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#5234 11 months ago

I fixed my TREX!

If your TREX is broken, I recommend the following troubleshooting steps.

1. If your TREX does not move body at all, but snaps his teeth, try physically tuning the body of the TREX until centered. There is a small switch that will be hit when it is centered. The TREX will not move up and down unless the switch is depressed.

2. To determine if your motors work, try applying 9v battery power to them directly for about 2 seconds. If it moves, it works. If it doesn't move, it's the motor. You will also notice that both motors have removable plugs about 2 feet down their wires. You can try switching the wire plugs and restarting the sequence. If the motor moves on startup, you know the motor is fine. Once you have confirmed the motors work, continue.

3. If the TREX does not open his mouth or move side to side, but moves up and down, your problem is on Board A. Try physically examining the board and the connections between them.

4. If your TREX moves side to side and snaps his teeth but not up and down, the problem is board B.

5. If your motors work, the TREX moves up and down and snaps his teeth, but does not move side to side, your problem is board C... the shaker motor power board. This was my problem. You can see that when I removed the board from my machine there was a big blowout on the back of it. I hacked the board and it now works like a champ. You can also get a replacement from MARCOs for about 90$. In any case, everything works on my machine 99% now. The last thing is fine tuning the right flipper switch (I'll probably just replace it at this point in time) and putting in some new twinkle bulbs for the bottom row of the backbox.

Hope this helps somebody and I'd be happy to help if anyone runs into a similar issue.

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#5240 11 months ago

An 80s Lost world, 90s Jurassic Park, and 00s Jurassic World sounds like a great mix of games to me.

Quoted from Neal_W:

Rumors are circling that Stern will be making a Jurassic World pin this year. Start making space.
I think when a sequel title comes out, it stirs interest in the predecessor, so I guess JP prices will climb further.

#5255 11 months ago

Anybody put titan rubbers in a Jurassic Park? If so, what color would you recommend?

3 weeks later
#5414 10 months ago

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?

When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.

On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.

What do you guys have on yours?

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2 weeks later
#5623 9 months ago

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.

When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.

This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.

When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.


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#5627 9 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The legs on those last 3 trough switches on the left are all bent pretty bad, especially the last one...


Stupid question... when you say "the legs" do you mean the part that physically touches the ball or the parts underneath connected to wires?

#5637 9 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The legs on those last 3 trough switches on the left are all bent pretty bad, especially the last one...

First answer was the correct one. Thanks for the help guys. The "Leg" had bent down and was physically touching the mounting bracket. A simple bend and it's back good as new. I have attached a photo from the "long angle" to show exactly what the issue was. This is a post bend photo in hopes it helps some random person in 5 years. Thanks!

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#5641 9 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi all. I just got a JP and want to do the led conversion. I know I saw someone created a pictured breakdown of all of the bulbs needed but can’t find it. Anyone have the link or post? Just need numbers of bulbs. Oh also I updated the roms to chads 6.0 and sound. The other roms- U17/21 etc are the 4. Something version. What do these do and do I need to update as well? Thanks

I don't have the exact numbers (someone else will give you those) but let me give you this one piece of advice so you don't repeat my mistake. DO NOT PUT 8 SMD FLASHERS IN THIS MACHINE! I might go with 3 SMD tops. I ended up putting electrical tape over 5/8 of the SMDs on mine and that made it so I could play without a seizure.

Good luck!

#5675 9 months ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Check your shaker motor board for blown fuses.

I second this... if the shaker motor board is working properly the TREX won't work. It's in the cabinet on the left hand side just above the shaker.

2 weeks later
#5831 9 months ago

I think I just did something stupid. My Jurassic Park came with a subwoofer. It really makes the T-Rex roar. It is hooked up with alligator clips going from the speaker on the bottom to sub and has been operating for 3 months with no issue. I recently read how to hook up my hobbit to the same sub. I played a game and it rocked. I went over to the Jurrassic park afterwards and the sound was anemic and coming in and out of from loud to soft like certain speakers were only working intermediately. I didn't hear the woofer and looked at how it was plugged up. To my horror, I had switched the RCA jacks to the Output instead of the input on the woofer for my Jurassic Park. I had assumed (incorrectly) they were all inputs. When I was playing my Hobbit, the sound was going out to the sub and being powered from the sub to the speakers in the Jurassic Park. I have not troubleshot too much yet, but I am assuming I messed up the bottom speaker in my Jurassic Park. What do you guys think would be the most likely solution?

If it is the speaker, what is the best way to replace something like that?

#5864 8 months ago

Here is my strategy. Still havn't made it to system shut down, but got close. High scores are all over 400 million, with highest topping 1 billion.

Hit the scoop to start a mode, do mode/try for the ramp or TREX shot to light scoop again (briefly). Try to get through as many as I can. In the process of doing this, I'll hit dinos and start the multiball. When multiball is started, try for jackpot, then try for CHAOS. If you are about to drain you ball on tri-ball, hit the smart missile to save game and start chaos multiball. Don't use it unless you have to. Then go for the jackpots there. If you have Smart missle when you start CHAOS, you are golden.

A few other tips I didn't notice until later is that the Boat Dock will kill a dinosaur when lit, so if you are having trouble getting the last dino to start multiball it's great.

Really liking the game.

I have 2 games, this and a Hobbit. JP is better IMO. Going to try and trade the Hobbit for a few "Lesser" Data Easts or Bally/Williams down the line.

#5915 8 months ago

Whelp, I cheated. I added a post on the left outlane but finally got to total system shutdown. Gotta open the lanes back up a bit. This game is still my favorite.

#5930 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Does anyone know if the lighted scoop topper mods (the plastic signs that go above the scoops) is available anywhere (or anyone have it for sale)?
I'm doing a playfield swap. I bought the scoop light kit but would like to dress up the game a bit.


#5942 8 months ago

Mine falls off the ramp from time to time, but only when I get a good straight shot up the ramp with a lot of force. I'm guessing it might be more efficient to slow the ball down after it is up the ramp but before it hits the wireframe.

#5972 8 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Yep - just take pictures. I take heads off my games to move them in/out of my basement, and successfully moved JP a few times. I've had the JP PF out a couple times as well, so it's possible without separating wire bundles.

It is possible to take the playfield out completely without unplugging anything. I did it when I put in my side blades.

#5973 8 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

It is possible to take the playfield out completely without unplugging anything. I did it when I put in my side blades.

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#5977 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hey Honey, could you please come hold something for me for a few seconds while I do something to the pinball machine?

Make sure you have a chair with something grippy and soft on it so it does not slide. Also be warned the populated playfield is probably 80 pounds and awkward. The wires are not long enough to set the playfield on the ground.

2 weeks later
#6199 8 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I've seen mention that Cliffy protectors make the hole shots more difficult. I realized I installed the protectors almost immediately after buying JP, so I've not really played without them. The other day I was playing, and I notice most of my shots to the holes end up unsuccessful and I never get through system shutdown. Getting through tri-ball into Chaos multi-ball is pretty difficult for me since often times a seemingly spot-on shot bounces back from the hole.
Anyone do any significant comparisons with and without Cliffy's?
Anyone without Cliffy's have frequent bounce back?
A change I just made was to remove Titan post rubbers and went back to Cliffy posts. Direct hits to the Titan posts send the ball flying into the air. This doesn't happen to the stiffer Cliffy posts. I haven't browsed Titan's offerings lately, so no clue if they now offer firmer posts than what I had. My Titan's were from when the company started offering the competition silicone line.

I've only played with cliffy posts on, so have nothing to compare it to. However, Data East Games with Scoop Holes like Jurassic Park are VERY prone to wear around the holes. Essentially, almost every shot into the hole will rub off a tiny bit of wood, especially in games where the scoop holes are close to the front... like Jurassic Park. The end result is that the scoop holes slowly get larger over time with Jurassic Park. Every game you play, the game is (slightly) easier because the hole is bigger. If you really want to make the game a little easier you can always add a post on the left outline. There should already be a pre-drilled hole here. Depending on how wide//how much rubber you leave on the outlanes you can much more finely tune the difficulty with this addition.

Long story short, if you don't use protection with your machine, your A hole is going to get a lot of wear and you have a very good probability of winding up with a gaping A hole... one that swallows balls whole with ease.

2 weeks later
#6275 7 months ago
Quoted from poopedmypins:

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

As others have stated, it is not in the backbox but on the cabinet bottom somewhere inbetween the shaker motor and the bottom speaker. You are free to spend money to reinstall one for completeness sake, but be warned that every Data East knocker I have ever heard is pretty weak. The Bally/Williams one startle adults when they are not expecting it, the Data East one's wouldn't bother a cat. I would equate the volume of the knocker to be about twice as loud as the sound emanated when you hit the flipper button.

#6332 7 months ago

All this talk about eggs has got me thinking. I have a cheap Mattel Raptor I got from Target glued to a piece of plastic and mounted over the raptor pit. It is one of the raptors that has "jumping" action with springs in it's legs. I am tempted to drill a small l shaped hole in the plastic above it, add a piece of stiff wire to the raptor leg, and make it so that the raptor physically moves up and down when the ball hits the kickback. Has anyone done anything like this?

3 weeks later
#6572 6 months ago

Made a video tour of my Jurassic Park while fiddling around with the best way to record a game. Here for reference in case anyone wants to see a mediocre player in action or see what too many mods in a machine looks like.

#6578 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's a video of my t-rex situation if anyone has some input. Just replaced Q24 (see this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues) but I guess it might actually be Q27. Aside from the transistors and the relay I don't know where to look next. He also doesn't chomp or go up and down in the test. I have no idea what happened, this was all working before I pulled him. Wires all look good, but voltage readings are odd to me... shown in the video. Maybe someone can confirm their voltage.

This may seem odd, but check the fuses on the shaker motor board in the bottom left of the cabinet.

#6580 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's a video of my t-rex situation if anyone has some input. Just replaced Q24 (see this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues) but I guess it might actually be Q27. Aside from the transistors and the relay I don't know where to look next. He also doesn't chomp or go up and down in the test. I have no idea what happened, this was all working before I pulled him. Wires all look good, but voltage readings are odd to me... shown in the video. Maybe someone can confirm their voltage.

If the fuse thing doesn't work, it's been a while since I had to mess with mine, but my write up of what I figured out (without a multi-meter) is in post #5234 with pictures...

1 week later
#6640 6 months ago
Quoted from smassa:

This club is about to become a hell of a lot bigger.

You got some intel for us?

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