(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,271 posts
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  • Latest reply 43 minutes ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#172 5 years ago

I am adding a 12V LED strip to my Jurassic Park while I have it apart for a shop job. I would like to find a connector with 12V that I can make a patch cable to go between so I can tap into the 12V, but leave it easily reversible. Does anyone have a suggestion of a connector that carries 12V and would be easy to make a short patch cable for? The fewer the number of connections, the easier it would be to make the patch cable. I spent some time looking through the schematics, but nothing really jumped off the page as a good candidate.

#175 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Doesn't get much easier than this:
http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=601
Also, completely reversible.

Thanks for the link. I have not seen those before. Ordering one now. I only wish I had known about them before I did my TZ translight door RGB light mod.

#176 5 years ago
Quoted from JeffA:

Is this to light up the Jussaric Park letters in the back? I want to do that. Can you post details on which strip you bought and the wiring solution once done? Thanks!

Nope, I am lighting up the banner that says "When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth" and a backboard mod I made. I have plenty of LED strip left over, however. What Jurassic Park letters are you talking about? The ones on the translight? Maybe I need to do another mod.

1 month later
#258 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

It think it is dual purpose based on that pic I linked to. That's my only evidence though, well and the fact that I seem to have empty screw holes right on the outside of both of those t-nuts on mine.
The mantis ones would still probably work in the stock position with the additional screws on the side. One of these days I'll make that investement. I haven't screwed up my game yet without them, back when I was blissfully ignorant that supports were supposed to be there!

I just shopped my JP and my playfield supports were each connected using one of the screws from the in lanes that go through a T nut there was a nylock nut hold ing the support on the screw. There was a hex head wood screw in the other hole on each.

#264 5 years ago
Quoted from hiljak:

Hey guys when you are aligning your JP flippers, do you center the flipper on the playfield hole or line the hole up with the top or bottom of the flipper?

I set my flippers to have the tip point slightly above the hole in the playfield. I have no idea if that is correct, but it seems to look right.

2 weeks later
#280 5 years ago

When I first got my JP it would say "T-Rex got'em" after the match sequence. There was some discussion on RGP about what settings made it say that, and I don't recall anyone ever posting a solution to making this happen. After I changed my batteries a few years back, it stopped saying "T-Rex got'em" and would just say "How about another tour of the park". Despite me having written down the settings, I was never able to get it set to say "T-Rex got'em" after the match sequence.

I was putting everything together today after having torn down my machine to shop it, and I gave it some service credits (despite it being on free play) when I was in diagnostics. Now it is back to saying "T-Rex got'em" after the match sequence. Apparently that is the phrase to let you know it still has credits after a game has finished.

I thought I would post this in case others were as baffled as I was trying to figure this out.

#284 5 years ago
Quoted from oopsallberrys:

from ChadH, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-rules/page/5#post-1205749
Your current game will say "oooh T-Rex got him" during a failed match under a very specific circumstance.
If your game is NOT SET TO FREE PLAY... and if your game ends and you DO NOT MATCH... and if there is ONE OR MORE CREDITS in the game at the time. If those circumstances are met, then your game will say "oooh T-Rex got him".
Otherwise it will always play the descending notes sound effect.

Not exactly. It will say "Oh, T-Rex got'em" if the game is set on free play if there is no match AND there are service credits on the machine.

1 month later
#324 5 years ago
Quoted from smerff:

I recently saw someone post that they had replaced the black wood at the back of the machine with acrylic so I decided to do the same. Looks great. Let me know if you need any tips about doing this as its easy to crack the acrylic.
Thumbs up T-Rex topper!

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It looks nice. What are you using to light the backboard and where is the light source mounted? What did you use to cut the acrylic? I used a table saw for mine, but it tended to melt the acrylic as much as cut it. Your cuts look much cleaner than mine.

Your T-Rex with the pinball in its mouth is great. That cracks me up.

1 month later
#386 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Very cool, nice job!!!
Hey, does any one know if the loop combo guy is on here? I knew I should have pulled the trigger on the yellow scoop mod when it was available a bit ago....
If hes not on here, any one know how long it takes to get back in stock usually?

When I was looking for the yellow ones and he was showing out of stock, I emailed him and he had some available in a few days.

4 months later
#738 4 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

LED JP Jeep mod done! (with working head-lights/brake-lights) Mounting it when I have time this weekend.

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Any pics showing how you have the LEDs inside of the Jeep? I have the same one and am trying to figure out how to get the LEDs mounted.

3 months later
#1275 4 years ago
Quoted from galaga50:

Does anyone know if you can still buy the plastic things that the display board hooks on to the backbox? Mine are both broken.

I looked a few years back and never found any. I ended up bending a piece of aluminum for that piece. I bought one of those pieces of about 2' long aluminum that they have in various sizes at Lowes. There was one that was the right width/thickness that I cut a length off of and bent the end 90 degrees in a vice to make a piece like the plastic one that I had on the other side (only one of mine was broken). It has held the DMD display board firmly in my machine for over a year now. I think something like this, or finding a machine someone is parting out, are your choices.

Ross

1 month later
#1534 4 years ago

I posted this over in the Improved T-Rex thread, but thought I would post it in the JP Club thread in case anyone with the issue doesn't read that thread:

When I added the improved T-Rex body my T-Rex would not stay vertical. My mechanism had some slack in it and as best as I can tell, the added weight of the new body was enough to make the T-Rex lean forward a little. I tried a new up/down motor to try and get rid of the slack as its gears seemed a little sloppy. This did not fix the slack issue. Next, I shortened the link arm from the motor cam to the bottom of the T-Rex frame. I did this by making the angles more acute where the link arm has a short horizontal offset bend. By bending the horizontal piece to be more of a "Z" shape I was able to take about 1/8" out of the link arm length and now my T-Rex is vertical with no slack (you cannot push the T-Rex forward or backward a little, like before) when the motor is all the way up. This seemed to help the ball swallowing problem a little. That is, about 50% of the time the T-Rex would swallow the ball when it chomped (but not immediately upon the T-Rex becoming vertical).

My T-Rex's jaw was open enough when the T-Rex was vertical that the ball could fall out the mouth. I added a felt pad to the pad under the chomping solenoid as suggested by Winteriscoming. This kept the ball from falling out, but originally I had such a thick felt pad (I am using one of those stick on pads that Home Depot sells for sticking on chair legs for sliders) that the jaw was completely shut when the T-Rex was vertical (i.e., the jaw did not move when he chomped). Still, the ball did not roll down his throat and now without the chomping, there was nothing to cause the ball to roll back into the throat. I used an Xacto knife to make the felt pad thinner (down to about 1/8") so the T-Rex chomps when vertical, but still not swallowing the ball 100%.

I noticed that there was some slack in the chomping mechanism. That is, I could push the chomping solenoid in by hand and the jaw could still open and close a little. When I originally installed the improved T-Rex I didn't want to drill out the rivet in the jaw, so I ordered a new one from Marco. The jaw link arm from the chomping solenoid to the jaw was difficult to get into the hole on the jaw, so I drilled out the hole on the jaw a little. It turns out that this made the hole large enough that the link arm could move up and down some without engaging the jaw. I ordered another jaw from Marco and while I was at it I ordered a new jaw link arm. It turns out that my link arm was slightly shorter than the new one from Marco (I think Winteriscoming mentioned that there were a number of the link arms that had issues and you should check them, but mine appeared okay when I looked at it with nothing to compare it to). The combination of the longer link arm and the jaw with the original/smaller hole tightened up the slack in the chomping movement.

With all of the above, my T-Rex is now working 100% with the improved T-Rex. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to post my experience in case it can help someone else with T-Rex problems.

Ross

6 months later
#2409 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Anyone know where I can find the little horizontal decal in front of trex that always gets destroyed? I used to own a scanned .pdf of all the decals but that was 10 years ago and now I can't find it.

I don't have a scan, but what I did was use a decal for the bottom part (the wood around the saucer) and cut it down to fit the metal part in front of T-Rex (I put mylar over it to try and make it last longer). It you can get a scan of that decal (or even one of those decals, since they were in stock not too long ago) you might make something to work.

3 months later
#2626 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Probably a dumb question (more of a sanity check) about adjusting your T-Rex. I've bent the two metal "teeth" on the lower jaw as shown in your video and I've got it to the point where in a game it will pick up the ball by trapping it between the upper and lower "teeth" but not actually get it all the way into its mouth. It can carry the ball pinched between the upper and lower "teeth" to its fully upright position, but the ball doesn't go in T-Rex's mouth. Does that mean I need to bend the lower teeth even more?

I had a problem with my T-Rex swallowing the ball after it picked it up (the ball stayed in the front part of the mouth, just behind the "teeth"). Below is what I posted about my fix in the Improved T-Rex thread. Maybe something in this will help you out.

"I was able to get my T-Rex swallowing the ball 100% of the time and thought I would post what I did in case others have the problem.
When I added the improved T-Rex body my T-Rex would not stay vertical. My mechanism had some slack in it and as best as I can tell, the added weight of the new body was enough to make the T-Rex lean forward a little. I tried a new up/down motor to try and get rid of the slack as its gears seemed a little sloppy. This did not fix the slack issue. Next, I shortened the link arm from the motor cam to the bottom of the T-Rex frame. I did this by making the angles more acute where the link arm has a short horizontal offset bend. By bending the horizontal piece to be more of a "Z" shape I was able to take about 1/8" out of the link arm length and now my T-Rex is vertical with no slack (you cannot push the T-Rex forward or backward a little, like before) when the motor is all the way up. This seemed to help the ball swallowing problem a little. That is, about 50% of the time the T-Rex would swallow the ball when it chomped (but not immediately upon the T-Rex becoming vertical).
My T-Rex's jaw was open enough when the T-Rex was vertical that the ball could fall out the mouth. I added a felt pad to the pad under the chomping solenoid as suggested by Winteriscoming. This kept the ball from falling out, but originally I had such a thick felt pad (I am using one of those stick on pads that Home Depot sells for sticking on chair legs for sliders) that the jaw was completely shut when the T-Rex was vertical (i.e., the jaw did not move when he chomped). Still, the ball did not roll down his throat and now without the chomping, there was nothing to cause the ball to roll back into the throat. I used an Xacto knife to make the felt pad thinner (down to about 1/8") so the T-Rex chomps when vertical, but still not swallowing the ball 100%.
I noticed that there was some slack in the chomping mechanism. That is, I could push the chomping solenoid in by hand and the jaw could still open and close a little. When I originally installed the improved T-Rex I didn't want to drill out the rivet in the jaw, so I ordered a new one from Marco. The jaw link arm from the chomping solenoid to the jaw was difficult to get into the hole on the jaw, so I drilled out the hole on the jaw a little. It turns out that this made the hole large enough that the link arm could move up and down some without engaging the jaw. I ordered another jaw from Marco and while I was at it I ordered a new jaw link arm. It turns out that my link arm was slightly shorter than the new one from Marco (I think Winteriscoming mentioned that there were a number of the link arms that had issues and you should check them, but mine appeared okay when I looked at it with nothing to compare it to). The combination of the longer link arm and the jaw with the original/smaller hole tightened up the slack in the chomping movement.
With all of the above, my T-Rex is now working 100% with the improved T-Rex. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to post my experience in case it can help someone else with T-Rex problems.
Ross"

7 months later
#3256 2 years ago

In getting ready to go pick up our new GB premium yesterday, my wife and I turned on our pinball machines to play them for the first time in a few months (we have been playing machines on location, but have not been playing our machines). We realized that we were both playing JP more than anything else and it is really our favorite of everything we have. It is not that we don't like the other machines, but for some reason we both always come back to JP. JP is the first machine I bought in my modern collection (I had an EM collection for years that I had to sell when we moved to Dallas). I bought it 14 years ago and we still love it. I thought that was interesting considering most think of it as a "B" title.

I have modded my JP pretty significantly with the new T-Rex, the opening park gates, lighted backboard, lighted banner plastic, scoop light mod, Jeep with flashers, East Dock sign, and PinSound board. The one thing it really needs is a color DMD. I have the LED color DMD for my DESW and really like it, but there isn't one available for JP yet. Does anyone know the reason that Color DMD hasn't made a package for JP yet?

IMG_0503 (resized).JPG

#3258 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

That T-rex is fantastic! Who makes those?

Winteriscoming made a few batches of them. I am not sure if he is still making them or not. They are a great mod. He did a very nice job with sculpting and painting them.

2 months later
#3522 2 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

I have the 6.0 and buy in off. I just set it to on to see what happens.
**edit**
buy in on did not do it

Try adding a service credit from the service menu. When I originally got my JP it played the match sequence, then I did some work on it and it stopped playing the match sequence. It took me a long time to figure out how to make it play again and I think what I did was add a service credit (that never gets decremented because the machine is on free play).

Ross

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