Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rvermeire.
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Getting my JP next week and buying mod stuff...
Found plenty of palmtrees on amazon Deutschland (located in Belgium) and just wondering how you guys fix these ?
Also wondering what the best scale (size in cm) is for the wrangler jeep on the right side plastic. 1/32 or 1/43 ?
Thx and looking forward to fight the dino's
SOLVED !! Reseated cable from power supply to mainboard
Got myself a JP and had first issue 2 days ago.
Screen frozen at startup screen PIN2DMD. Nothing happens, thought it might be related to my ROM upgrade to V6 so swapped back to 5.13/5.10. No effect but suddenly i smelled something was burning, the coil of the raptor kickback (top playfield) was melting.... Fuse F5 blown as well..
Changed both and back in business for a couple of games... This morning frozen screen again, turned it off, Fuse was still ok.
I guess it's the raptor pit and Q4 (TIP36C) and Q30 (TIP122) might be involved.
Test in diode mode on DMM
Q1-Q5 : beep
Q8-13 / Q23-30 / Q40-46 nothing, just a 1 on the display
Q64-71 : Value of 1.1x
NO idea how to interpret these results...
Turned machine on for a couple of seconds... NO LEDs came on on mainboard.... an display still frozen on pin2dmd logo
Quoted from Michele_Caletti:NO led on main board is something very likely pointing to the power board. i had (i still have..) issues related with the power board and in my experience they can have very different symptoms, including no power on CPU board. Swapped Power board and bam! no more issues on any aspect besides the display - just because it's not the correct board to power it. When i had the faulty power board i had sudden resets, no power on some playfield or display or CPU board.. "randomly".
Thx.
I was going to post a new question...
1) Have random resets since yesterday.... In game or even in attract mode... so guess it's power board related when I read your comments.
Can something be measured, checked out, swapped ?
2) and things are getting more complicated. I had a burned out raptor coil 23-800 2 weeks ago and F5 blew... Thought it was coil related as everything was fine when replaced both.
This morning when I started machine did a loop of resets and heart a buzzing sound.... top of playfield.
Turned it off and coil burned out again ! This time F5 blew but also F6....
suggestions ?
IMG_2711 (resized).jpgQuoted from woody24:When I had a coil burned out, it was because I installed a diode backwards on the coil. Amazing one tiny little slipup could cause such an huge issue. In doing that, it burned out F5, but I also had to replace several components on the PCB board that were all chained to that F5 fuse. Thinking back on it, I'm surprised I figured it all out on my own. I'm not an electrical person, but I learned quickly how to read schematics.
And I kept blowing fuses until I replaced pretty much all components on that chain. And my issue was with the VUK.
So, have you done recent work with replacing a coil? Sorry, if I missed that.
Nope just replaced coil but it was with a 23-800 (williams) without diode so i took diode of original one and soldered it in the same direction. It worked for about 10 days and suppose it wouldn't have worked so long if it was in the wrong direction? But I'm not an electrical person neither 
This morning I played with the burned coil disconnected. Nice 40m game with 1.300.000 score Had 3x 6 multiball and same for 3x and 2x multiball.; Meaning everything was under pressure and reset should have happened if still something else than coil leads to it... right ?
Now, reset didn't happen... So coil might be reason for reset?
Question is what is reason for coil to burn out....
Q4 and Q30 tested ok as far as I think it should...
Q1-5 : all give a beep (ground black cable + top of transistor red cable)
Q8-13 / Q23-30 / Q40-46 : no reaction, figure 1 on the DMM display
Quoted from Michele_Caletti:My first attempt was swapping the fuse holders. it all started there because some where changed and resoldered, and eventually got loose again. At the end the board was too problematic with a couple of fuses with board tracks exposed and damaged. I gave up and got another board that works, except the display that's not compatible (but this is another story..) The power board in my experience can bring to random resets, and weird issues like part of the board going off, display work weirdly etc. And it's not like works/doesn't. one day works, one day has an issue, the next another issue..
check my update... rings a bell ?
Quoted from OTRChief:Many times, when a coil burns the drive transistor has failed on and must be replaced.
Best way to test atransistor ? Is it as simple as black wire to GND and touch upper part with red wire and if no continuity in diode mode, they are ok ?
Quoted from woody24:Grain of salt information. I think when I was testing mine, the OMz number with a multimeter was what I was going off of. Say like a number was supposed to read 240, but was reading 90 instead. Something like that. Again, memory from doing my trial and error from 7 years ago, so someone please correct me!
Q4 was toasted and gave continuity, replaced the TIP36C. To be sure I also replaced Q30 in same chainby TIP102 instead of TIP122.
Installed new coil and things seems to be fine again.... let's wait a couple of days to see if these 2 were the real coil burners...
Next issue...
Right lower flipper works one out of 5 button pushes...
All fuses are ok, power board and flipperboard
Flipper Switch is not bended and contact is ok, brushed it up
L2 and L3 on flipper board lit up ok (left flip, upper right flip).
L1 goes on when flipper moves up (1 out of 5 hits)
The board seems to be hacked in the past 
Suggestions ? Can something be measured on this board ?
IMG_2954 (resized).jpgIMG_2975 (resized).jpgQuoted from fixintoplay:That's not a hack. You need to download DE service bulletin #54 which addresses this issue: "flipper/end of stroke failures." See link:
https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf
The board looks like the recommended fix has already been performed, but you should remove the board and check it to be sure. My guess is that this is not your problem, though. The switch contact surface appears to have been cleaned with a flexstone -- that's a no-no. Those are gold plated contacts that must only be cleaned with a strip of paper, otherwise the plating is removed. If the #54 service fix checks out, replace both switches with new.
This is great info and was exactly my problem !! Used business card and some alcohol to clean up the right EOS.
All working again but will consider new switches. Thx !!
FIXED
One problem cleared, other one popping up
Gun does no longer shoot the dino !
Switch does not work in test mode
Tried an eos switch, nothing. in diode mode switch is ok
In the switch matrix it's using CN8-7 Green/blue cable and CN10-9 white brown cable.
Did a reseat of both connectors
Removed white/brown one and moved it up 3 cm (pass through) and put some thin on the cable to strengthen it up.
All other switches in the green blue line are working
Picture says it all....
04B75ADC-CB4F-4F4D-9026-5B2CA9CDCE7A (resized).JPGWhat is the right plunger assembly to use in the VUK shooting the ball up to the shooter lane ?
3.5" 515-5000-02 or
3.73" 515-5941-03 ?
Not really listed clearly in the manual and still have some issues in ball not always going up despite the fact i swapped coil already.
(Switch detecting ball is ok)
Quoted from GRB1959:The DE manuals can be a little tricky to read as some pages use a legal sized landscape page format and one page may actually fold out in the physical manual and in the electronic copy it is on two separate pages. It looks to me like the correct plunger assembly to use is part number 515-5000-02. I have attached an excerpt from the DE JP manual for your review which is what led me to my conclusion.
Gord[quoted image]
Well spotted! i indeed missed that one, found it now. Thx
FIXED !!! Installed a longer spring (Williams) and all seems fine after 25 test balls...
after burned raptor coil, gun not shooting and flipper issues last problem to get it working as it should...:
VUK coil under shooter lane shoots ball out 1 on 5 times.... replaced coil for a new 090-5001-00 (23-800), changed sleeve to one with a flange, bent metal part from straight up to different positions till min allowing ball to pass... no solution.
Changed black rubber under coil for williams one (higher) and put a cap on plunger to get it leveled with through lane... All this didn't help.
Switch receiving ball at the end of trough is working, plunger seems to be aligned directly under ball, nothing is blocking ball flow.
When i short Q45 (transistor of this coil) it shoots ball out perfectly (almost) every time 99%.
This short seems to give more power than what gun switchs activates...
Issue with VUK shooting out T Rex and power shed balls...
First it only shot ball out 1 on 3... Shortened spring a bit and also replaced switch as not really original... Shooting fixed but now when ball is kicked out machine thinks it's going home, like trough 1 is activated and flippers don't work as soon as ball is kicked out of the vuk...
Sometimes I get a second ball instead of ball end??? like if it was kicked sdtm through the raptor coil and you the ball back, same kid on screen.
In switch test switch reacts correctly as being the vuk and trough 1 is not activated...
6 balls in game and trough test releases all 6 and when I load them up again pin detects them correctly one by one...
anyone had this issue ?
Quoted from Neal_W:Go to switch test and knock on the playfield and see if any switches activate. Sounds like a trough switch is acting up.
Hit on different spots but no reacting on any switch.
Measured all diodes on the troughs and al give about 0.283.
The 6 ball release test wordks fine, reloading as well, all detected as it should be.
I tried a ball in VUK (in test mode) and tried troughs... Initially the first one was not reacting when moving it down by hand while ball still in VUK.
Later on it reacted again as it should... with ball in vuk...
all cable/diode soldering is ok on all 7 switches
IMG_4564 (resized).jpgIMG_4565 (resized).jpgIMG_4566 (resized).jpgIMG_4567 (resized).jpg
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Ghent
London, ON
Los Angeles, CA