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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,296 posts - Hot topic!
  • 468 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 minutes ago by fixintoplay
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider russmyers.
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#38 6 years ago

You have to pull the metal trough out of the game and file the dents smooth.

RussMyers

Quoted from aobrien5:

Anyone else have a problem with a dent in the trough preventing the ball from rolling into the last trough switch? I often have to shake the machine after draining to register that the ball is over. Any ideas for fixing this?

1395950183504.jpg 132 KB

6 months later
#185 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Anyone here going to Pinball Life Open House tomorrow? If so, check out the Jurassic Park there. It is running my code update. (Not available for distribution yet.)

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH.

RussM

1 month later
#230 5 years ago

Looks like you're missing the small support brackets that DE used.

You can get replacements, or even use the larger B/W or Stern style from here:

http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm

RM

#255 5 years ago
Quoted from Dawson:

Is it weird that every coil in my jurassic has been changed? Except for 2 flipper coils?

That is a little odd, yes.

If you do them all, why not the flipper coils too?

RM

#265 5 years ago
Quoted from hiljak:

Hey guys when you are aligning your JP flippers, do you center the flipper on the playfield hole or line the hole up with the top or bottom of the flipper?

For DE games the center point of the flipper tip should point directly at the playfield hole.

For B/W games, the bottom edge of the flipper with rubber on should rest against a small toothpick or similar stuck in the playfield hole.

What is most important:

There is a continuous straight line of the lane guide onto the top flipper edge so the ball flows smoothly from one onto the other with no deflection or hop

There is a small amount (1/16" or so) of vertical up/down play in the flipper bat so it doesn't bind

Check out Vid's guide to repairing and rebuilding flippers

RussMyers

Post edited by RussMyers: forgot to add de detail

3 months later
#410 5 years ago
Quoted from DoubleDanger:

Hi guys, I need a little tech help here... I got a little overzealous repinning wires in my rush to rebuild the connector for J5 on the PPB. I pulled out the entire PPB to redo the header pins, which turned out very nicely, but now I am stuck with a mess of wires that I've repinned but don't know which order to reinsert in the new connector. Stupid move not to label them, I know. Let that be a lesson learned. The only pics I have for reference are a couple of the toasted "before" pictures.

Here's what I do to avoid this:

I get the pile of trifurcon pins, flush cutter, wire stripper, new connector and crimper ready.

I put the key pin in the new connector, and then starting with one end (Pin 1), I cut each old wire, strip, crimp, and then insert each wire into the new connector as I go, one wire complete and inserted at a time. Then, when done, I hold the old connector up to the new one to double-check.

Almost impossible to eff it up that way.

RussMyers

2 weeks later
#476 5 years ago

Recently added the Loop Combo scoop mods and made a East Dock sign.

RussM

IMG_5841.JPG IMG_5842.JPG IMG_5843.JPG IMG_5844.JPG IMG_5850.JPG
#478 5 years ago

Printed out the graphics on Avery decal paper, stuck it to foam core, cut out with Exacto, and glued to a Popsicle stick painted white, then the stick gorilla-glued to a small metal bracket.

Not difficult.

RussM

2 months later
#667 5 years ago

Blondetall and Smoke, where did you get your trees?

RussM

#671 5 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

Going to rebuild my lower flippers this weekend. Got the parts from Pinball Life real quick (as usual). Might need some help since I've never had to rebuild any before, so this is just a heads up.

Check out Vid's Guide to rebuilding flippers and PM me with any questions, and I'll walk you through it.

I am very familiar with DE flippers and theory of operation.

RussM

#673 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Two coils. I'll have to check the rest of them, and maybe restrip the wire and resolder it to prevent it.
But has anyone run across this with their JP? Wires that just break, and not due to a cold solder joint? I was really glad it was an easy fix. Worried that the coil went bad, or was going to be much harder to track down.

The stranded wire will bend and fatigue at the joint right where the solder stops, and the wire eventually breaks off.

Very common.

I would strip back to fresh wire, tin it, remove the solder and wire stub from the coil lug with a swipe of the hot iron tip, and solder the fresh wire to the clean lug.

RussM

#682 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Does this post serve a purpose? I've seen photos of others having this same post in the same spot. I thought it was a hack, because they lost a nut and had one of these laying around.
2015-07-03 22.22.26.jpg

You often see posts like that, or metal posts, or oddly shaped clear plastics, sometimes in weird places, because during game tests in production that's where balls got stuck, and that's their fix.

RussM

1 month later
#828 5 years ago

Love the black skirts on the JP pops. May have to do that to mine.

RussM

2 months later
#1075 5 years ago

Big, big thanks to ChadH for JP Code 6.00 (and TFTC code 4.00)

Will make my thanks known in a more material fashion as well, but:

IMG_6054.JPG

RussMyers

#1107 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Yeah, this is bad. Previous owner didn't know what they were doing. With it how it is, DO NOT CRADLE THE BALL. If you hold the flipper too long, you'll blow a fuse.
What's happening now is that the EOS is being bypassed (obviously). The EOS switch tells the game to put the coil in to low power hold mode. As it is, you're pouring full power into the flipper all the time, and that's bad.
Desolder those wires and put your EOS back in line. Violet wire on the lug nearer the coil, brown on the further one.

Actually, no, this is not how DE Deger flipper theory of operation works. Would be correct with EM-style flippers, but not Deger SS.

With DE flippers, the EOS is NC, and the flipper gets a several-millisecond 50v kick and then the flipper board holds at 9v. regardless if the EOS opens or not.

If the flipper bat is struck by a ball (Raptor Kickback) and the EOS goes from open to closed, the coil gets another 50v kick and goes back to 9v hold. This is why JP is the first DE Deger game to even have EOS switches; look at DESW and R&B - no EOS switches at all.

If the EOS is misadjusted (left open at rest), broken or missing, you get weak flips in DE, because you only ever get the 9v hold voltage, and not the 50v kick.

Different hardware versions from different manufacturers have differing Theory of Operation.

RussM

3 months later
#1623 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I swapped for the Williams spoons on mine for this very reason, however, the ones I got from Marcos looked nearly identical to the ones I replaced. I think the leaf switch adjustments made more of a difference for me. My bumpers are crazy active now - and I love it - Timmy is safe!

Make sure all of the parts are tight; if anything is loose, this robs the pops of snappiness.

Replace the spoons with B/W type spoons and add a light schmear of teflon gel to the inside of the spoon (eg SuperLube)

Clean the switch contacts with a non-abrasive method, eg rough paper wet with alcohol

Make sure the little stick is in the exact center of the spoon at rest

Gap the switch so it's barely open at rest, like a gnat's eyebrow hair width

The pop should fire at the slightest touch of the ball to the skirt. If it fires from vibration, it's gapped a smidge too close, back it open slightly until it's correct.

This is a little fiddly, but it will make a huge difference.

RussMyers

1 month later
#1754 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

does anyone know the coil # for data east games that is less powerful than the standard 090-5020-030? Is it just 090-5020-020?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-relative-strength-of-de-flipper-coils

RM

1 month later
#2006 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

There is a bug in the "limit extra ball" setting. If you adjust the extra ball limit below three (the factory setting) the game will appear to award you additional extra balls though they will not actually be added to the count. I played a game that was set to two EB max and got a third extra ball that had no effect. I adjusted the game back to the factory setting since this isn't fair.

Which code? Factory code or ChadH's updated 6.00 code?

RussM

#2011 4 years ago

Sorry for the multiple posts - some weird crap was going in my browser

RussM

#2012 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Chad's v6.00.

Did you PM him about it?

RM

4 months later
#2498 4 years ago

You said:

Hi guys
Couple of flipper questions.
My upper right flipper doesn't have an EOS switch.
And the switch behind the flipper button that triggers the upper flipper was adjusted to be normally closed.
With this configuration the right flipper doesn't flip.

===The leaf switches under the flipper buttons are all normally open

If I make the switch normally open, it flips but does not return when you let go of the button.
I suspect an EOS switch is missing, or else something worse is wrong.

===There is a quirk in the DE Deger flipper board where if the flipper coil diode is missing or broken off on one end, the flipper will flip up but not drop back down even when you release the button. It should drop if you turn the power off. Check the coil diode on that flipper.

Is my setup correct? Is there meant to be an EOS switch on it?

===The third flipper (upper) on DE does not require an EOS switch. That's normal, although I think there should be a return spring on all 3 flipper mechs.

And is the switch for the upper right flipper meant to be NC or NO?
Thanks

===NO

RussM

1 month later
#2616 4 years ago
Quoted from kimzone:

My JP has an issue where the smart missile just fires went you hit first pop bumper don't shore why it does that

Put the game in Diagnostics - Switch Test mode.

Take off the glass.

Push on the pop bumper skirt with your finger.

What switch registers on the display?

RM

#2625 4 years ago
Quoted from pinaholic:

What's the going rate for a nice example?

2000-2300 range

RM

#2656 4 years ago

With the DE Deger flipper board, if the diode on the flipper coil is bad, broken at one end, or missing entirely, this is exactly what happens.

The flipper will stay up until the power is cut to that circuit.

Check the diode on that flipper coil.

RussMyers

Quoted from Time:

Call for Help:
I bought my machine knowing the right lower flipper gets stuck on during gameplay. I first thought this was a bad EOS fix but after reading Jurassic Park Flipper Hold Issue thread I quickly realized my issue wasn't so simple based on the way EOS works in this game. I have a different problem then that thread however.
The issue is when the lower right flipper gets activated it stays activated until the end of the ball. Afterwards the game drops power to the flippers and the flipper returns home. As soon as I press the right flipper again though its stuck back on. The coil is definitely active while its stuck on because I can't push the flipper down manually.
After reading that other JP flipper thread I took a look at the flipper control board and noticed mine looked kind of crusty. Take a look at the photo... what are those resistors added to those two chips doing? Theres no way thats factory right? Did I get a dodgy hacked up FCB? Any ideas what I should try next? I can confirm the board LEDs light up when the cabinet buttons are pressed and the stuck flipper LED doesn't stay on even though the flipper is still active. I'm worried my simple flipper rebuild has turned into larger board problems.

2 weeks later
#2706 3 years ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

I'm having an issue with my bunker coil. The ball basically dribbles out of the bunker and rarely gets sent to the left flipped. It usually gets kicked off the left sling or hits the top of the left sling and goes into the left outlane.
Game is level. Anyone else seen this or know where I should start to troubleshoot?

Flip the playfield up and take a good look at the VUK mechanism.

They can get out of alignment but what is also possible is the part wear after so many years.

The DE VUK design has a lot of parts that get sloppy. There is a rebuild kit for it.

It's kind of a PITA, but it's a common problem.

RM

4 months later
#3058 3 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I saw that mentioned in a video from TNT amusements about the flashers. I didn't account for those but instead just placed the standard #44 bulbs in there. I got some flashers and tried that but didn't see any flashing on my head box. I wonder if this flashing went away with ChadH Ver 6 code. I might be way off on that guess but its just a thought. Anyone else know more about this?

455s are blinkers, not flashers. They fit in 44 sockets but blink all by themselves randomly like Christmas tree lights.

RM

3 months later
#3328 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Ok I'm sick of these piece of shit rails on de pins. Ripped one clean out of the playfield tonight :/
Has anyone tried swapping the entire mechanism for Williams ones?
I love how simple and perfect they work.
Any show stopper reasons they wouldn't work?
Pf clearance? Size? Something with the cabinet?

What part ripped out?

Can you take a pic?

RussM

New alternatives to stock DE

http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm

#3334 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I've just compared my ij.
Lift handles are direct upgrades.
The slides however won't "directly" fit.
Right side needs to have a lighting circuit rewired and a light socket insulated but it would work.
Left side however has a coil mech for the ramp. I could shorten the rail but I'll have to check distances and angles for when the pf is lifted.
The sterns STILL have the same crap slide as far as I can tell (gb has it).

Yes, the DE system is the same through DE, Sega, and all modern Sterns up to today.

It has it's problems, yes, but you should try Gottlieb System 3 - it's far worse for usability.

What a PITA.

Just going over to the WPC-style support brackets could make a big improvement for the DE playfield (That's what Stern did after all) but retrofitting the slide-lock WPC system into a DE cabinet is very tricky.

If you are successful, please document your procedure.

RussM

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