Joining the club. Stumbled over a JP which really needs some attention but playfield appears to be OK and plastics are whole and new motor for TRex is with it so took a risk as price was right. The missing PCB, motor and subway are included, just not in the picture.

A 2nd cabinet was included which is in better shape as this one. A bigger task as I am used to, apparently ready for next step in pinball resto

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Cleaned and touched up the 2nd cabinet as good as I can and transferred the cable harness to this cabinet. Next step is to get the playfield in and checking first electrical and mechanical functionality and than clean it up

We are slowly getting there

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So. Got the pinball working again .

But TRex. I think the motor which moves the dino up-down is having a problem. It starts turning the proper way and after a few seconds it starts turning backwards. If I dissassemble the motor and hold the 'motorpin' by hand and use force it also switches direction. So it looks like when the motor senses to much counterforce it switches direction. When I move the head up-down manually I dont feel anything special, eg it moves fluently. OFcourse I feel the power of the spring but doesnt feel strange.

Diagnose that motor is faulty is correct?

What is the spare lightbox? Only cabinet with backbox was extra, not a Playfield

The problem is thT with the early boards the slightest contamination on the eos switches would the pin make think that the flipper was in up position while he was down and the flippers stopped worked properly. In exploitation this was a real headache eg those guys removed the eos switches and just shorted the wires. What the modification does is that the dirt sensitivity becomes a lot less and makes the eos usable. Eg doing the mod without eos is useless

Nobody? After rethinking it I think the mechanism works like a pumpjack and is never supposed to reverse direction so there is no electronics to control direction. Just power on and it starts rotating CW. Eg if i see it reversing direction something is wrong inside the engine (could be gearmechanism).

Anyone can confirm my thinking?

Thanks. So a faulty motor gearbox it is. Will order a new motor.

This I have one left. It is missing a Gi connector though, they cut part of the cabling. If he wants it he can have it when I am 100% done and don’t need it for sure. However, shipping US - NL will be a killer in price looking at the size I am afraid

I think you better buy a local piece of wood. Cut it to size and drill the holes for Gi.

Guessing a full shopping is not a luxury. Rubbers look otherwise like new

Hope to finish it today.

Man, the amount of broken wires, incredible. I think like 10+ ripped from coils, GI.

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Its Alive and kicking after being shipped and doing a full service job on it, now let’s

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During the resto I misplaced somewhere this plastic . Does anyone have a spare or a scan of it so I can make one myself?

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Thanks, highly appreciated, but This is not the plastic I am looking for. The one I am looking for is at the right side of end of shooter lane. Just befor the wireform.

See below picture of the spot

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Getting closer . It looks like below

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Yep it is, thanks !!

Finishing up the JP and starting to tweak it to make it working 100%.

I noted that on the outlanes these two lights are always on. I see also they have no diodes where all other sockets do have diodes. Anyone has a picture how it looks with them? Thanks.

Getting the ball through to work 100% is also a challenge But I am getting closer and closer, now at 95%

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Good start. I like shopping a pin especially when it is in a none working state. Bringing it back to life is very satisfactory. I see it as saving one for the hobby.

Don’t know what to check more but I can tell you that in diagnosis it is normal the shaker motor barely moves. You need to put your hand on the shaker to notice it moved in diagnosis mode. It’s just a short burst.

In regard to Trex left-right this is clearly noticeable in diagnosis but it moves only slowly with a lot of noise.

Anyone tried this? Being a hobbyist and fiddler am gonna give it a try.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rebuilding-sound-for-de-jurassic-park-using-a-pi

Having a real Trex roaring from the speakers sounds interesting

Have experience with pinsound on a GnR which worked flawless but am a hobbyist and like DIY stuff

Improved my GC last night. Chaos and system failure obtained but missed the 50M Jackpots at trex

Great game with a lot of data east action. Love it.

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Mine had a loose wire there to. Man, the amount of looses wires I have had in my JP

I did the mod to even though I didn’t had problems at that moment but guessed it would be just a matter of time. Must admit I also have the feeling it drops a little further when a ball hits the flippers hard. But not enough to really matter.

Than last night I had a weak right flipper. Thought something was wrong with the Switches so cleaned everything which didn’t help as the cause was a broken new coilstop .....

Use the pinsound program on a windows PC to prep your usb stick. Much easier and faster. Just download the sound file from pinsound on your hard drive, leave it zipped and follow the direction of the pc software. Easy and only takes minutes in place of an hour ....

Scored some side blades from another exJP owner which I installed. Looks nice.

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Finally received up down motor. Now the trex goes up down no problem but doesn’t swallow the ball. First I thought trex wasn’t upright enough but it looks like it can’t go up any further.

Now I am thinking the jaw doesn’t close enough. The link appears to be OK. If I would shorten the plunger of grind the coilstop, this would give the mouth some more slack I guess. If I remove the coilstop the mouth can close further by hand.

Enclosed a picture of the jawlink which appears to be OK.

Any suggestions ?

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Made a picture open and closed. Anyone can tell me it closes enough?

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Thanks

This is the solution. Picked up one with a friend who had one lying around and it works now.

I thought befor that the chewing was required to eat the ball but with the correct part the ball goes direct in the subway and I realize now that the chewing is just for us spectators. This had me on the wrong foot.

Great club it is. Now to get the left right movement 100% reliable. Quite noisy but apparently that is normal.

So, got my trex updown working now and eating the balls with great appetite. Needed a new motor and jawlink and moves now perfect. At least for the Moment

Than left right. It appears that the gearbox has great slack. What I notice when the motor starts running is can take like 2 seconds befor trex starts moving. Also I can easily move the trex by hand left right for a stretch, easily like 2 inches. This also means the Trex doesn’t remain fixed on mid position but moves from it due to shaking of the pinball.

Is this normal? I got another gearbox with the pinball but quality unknown (yet). When I move the axis of this spare gearbox by hand I can see the internal gears moving immediate.

So wanna try to swap the gearbox tonight but touching base here to see what is normal. If this slack is normal I know has no sense in trying to improve it.....

When I saw moving while chomping I don’t mean left right motor starts running but you can imagine if there is slack in the gearbox trex can move without motor turning. If it just moves a few mm (movement left right is disabled in settings) it will drop off the centerswitch and trex will no longer go up-down.

Found the cause. The screw which secured the top assy to the axis was loose again. I tightened it the evening befor so didn’t think this was the cause and suspected thus the gearbox. Tightened it again but again loose after few minutes.

So checked and it isn’t an original screw. I expect to get tomorrow an Orginal screw and will try again. Hoping the original screw has something like a point which holds it better. Will see. To be cntd.

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I think the hexspacer is on a plastic ‘supporting’ the wireform. Not at my machine now so can’t take a detailed pic but you can just see at below pic. Look for it at beyond the right pop bumper cap

In regard to the diverter. If you look below the play field you will see a screw on the axis which allows you to change height and position

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Trex is still giving me issues. During pinball night the trex wasn’t able to stand up when the ball was in his mouth. I am suspecting the spring is touching the base of the left right motor.

Now I got also today an assy from a friend and when I compare mine has a spring and his not. My theory is that the spring was designed later to protect the motor. Anybody an idea? How dangerous would it be to use the construction without spring ?

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Thanks. Looks like my spring it thicker and it is touching the housing of the left right motor. This brings extra resistance and blocks the trex going up down.

At least, this is my theory .....

Will need to find a new spring and try it out.

So made myself a new spring with a long end on one side so it doesn’t touch the left right motor.

Trex is back in action, hopefully now for longer than 2 hours .....

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Installed a RasPiSound system today. Interesting product. Works like pinsound but at 1/3 of the cost. However, pinsound is much more plug and play as this one. If you are not a hobbyist Pinsound is better choice.

If you are a DIY guy like me who likes to fiddle and considers that a part of the hobby this is an option.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rebuilding-sound-for-de-jurassic-park-using-a-pi

It's similar to Pinsound, eg you can use your own WAV's etc.. You can download the Pinsound sundsets and try to use them. Apparently Pinsound is nowadays scrambling their stuff so ID's pointing to the proper Wav's can be wrong.

I dont blame them, they have all the right to do so allthough the Pinsound forum is from the community and doesnt belong to Pinsound as far as I know. Anyway, again, this is not a solution for people not prepared to fiddle like me and Pinsound has all the right to protect their work. Pinsound is a great product and this DIY project is more for the fun of it in my opinion than a thread to Pinsound. I think Pinsound started off very similar to this product and has developed in a mature Plug&Play solution.

See also

What to do on a Saturday afternoon ?

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Did you try it in test mode? First check is to see if the switches are triggered at the right position.

Hmmm

There is for sure some slack as I have had the same experience. 1/2 inch sounds like a little to much. With me the problem was that the screw which holds the assy to the motor was loose. Perhaps with you to? Make sure you use some loctite other wise you will have to do this tightening again soon

You can buy for a few dollars a step up converter on eBay plus a bridge rectifier to convert the AC to DC befor the converter and power it direct from GI. On this way you convert 6,3 VAC to DC to 12 VDC. In that case no relay required.

Most important is to check Full functionality of the trex. A broken motor can set you back easily usd 100. There are two motors, for up down and 1 for left right. And original plastics are also rare. There are repro’s made however. But than some color differences can be expected.

For the rest just the usual as with other pins.

Am on holiday now but I think I know somebody who has this part lying around from dissembling a JP long time ago. Don’t know how nice it is though. If you are missing it should me a PM after August 1 so I can dig it up with my friend and ask if he wants to sell it.

Guessing he is used to Sterns which have a Tmolding in the head. A JP has just wood so red paint is needed, not a red Tmolding