(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

7 years ago

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  • 8,691 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 198 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (7 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (7 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (6 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (6 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (6 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5045 2 years ago

I'm in the club! Drove 6 hours round trip last night to grab this one at a pretty decent price. Got home with it at 2:30 AM. A little tired but excited!!

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#5048 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Welcome to the club! Put that piano on Criags List and make room for more.
It looks like the bulbs for your topper are burned out.

There are several bulbs burned out on the topper and the playfield. LEDs are in my future!

Man if I could get someone to come get that piano I would lol...

The interesting thing will be getting this beast up into our upstairs game room. It's a HEAVY PIN!

#5140 2 years ago

My understanding is that coils don't really get "weak". They either work or they don't. Changing the coil won't make it kick out any stronger. Need a new sleeve as noted above.

#5167 2 years ago

Hey guys trying to fix a switch on my JP. The left out lane switch is not working. No response in switch test. There is a wire that had come loose which I soldered back on but still nothing. The right outlane has two wires to it, I don’t see any other wires for the left?

Can someone confirm this wiring is correct before I order a new switch?

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#5173 2 years ago

I had the same issue on my JP with the T Rex not moving side to side. Removing that same relay and reheating/resoldering the joints on the PCB did the trick.

#5180 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I'll give it a shot today... Do you know which connections on the PCB (presumably power control board) need to be checked?

My bad I just mean the circuit board on the relay. My electronics vocabulary is rudimentary! Just take the relay off and there are about 8-10 or so solder joints in the back. Reheat those and flow a little new solder in there and give it a shot. Just make sure you don’t put so much solder in there that joints touch or anything. After that my TRex works like a champ.

1 week later
#5264 2 years ago

Thought I would post a little how to tutorial on custom painting your Tim’s gate mod in case anyone was interested. I am using Vallejo model color acrylics and Citadel washes (nuln oil and aggrax earthshade).

First pic is of the unpainted gate. It looks awesome out of the box but I thought I could improve on it a little with some paint.

Step 1 is shading with nuln oil (black wash). I concentrate this near the areas where the pillars meet to give it more a sense of depth and separation. The shade is feathered up the columns and placed heavier in areas that are out of the sun like under the arch.

Once that is done I do a heavy brown wash (aggrax earthshade) over the doors to darken the recesses. A lighter leather brown color is painted over the raised areas to make them pop out more.

Once that is dry I go back in and dry brush in a dark grey color to bring back the stone look of the columns. This is scrubbed in on the sides as well to simulate stone. I do three dry brushing layers, each with a lighter grey, finishing with a fairly light grey just at the very top surfaces where the light hits more. Special attention is paid to the torch sconces.

After this I go in with a dark brown color and just break up the color on the columns a little in some areas so it doesn’t look so uniform and more like stone that has been in a jungle for a while. After that I build up more brown at the bases of the columns followed by a forest green color. This is also highlighted with a lighter green to simulate moss growing on the stone at the bases and under some of the torch sconces.

Almost done! Last thing I do is scrub a very light amount of black around the torches and up the columns from them to show the soot on the column from the burning torches.


Hope this helps anyone else thinking of painting their gate! Pics below:

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#5278 2 years ago

Has anyone got a link to a list of the bulb types and number of bulbs to do an LED conversion for JP?

1 week later
#5377 2 years ago

Question on my TRex. I had a switch wire break off so I had to lift the playfield, find the offending wire, strip a new section of wire and resolder it. I didn't do anything near the TRex mechs.

Started the game, no more switch error however the T Rex got stuck halfway up after eating the ball. He sat there at a 45 degree angle for a few seconds and then spit out the ball. He did not return to the up position after that.

Shut down the game, tested the T Rex switches and they seem to be working correctly, the top and bottom switches were firing at the top and bottom of the travel. Looked at the motor and it seems to be working smoothly. T Rex moved side to side and up and down without issue. Started the game again, diagnostics went ok, then same thing happened again when it tried to eat a ball.

Ideas? Relay problem?

#5393 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I know I'm going to sound like an idiot, but still trying to figure out ruleset. My only other pin is a Getaway, and while very enjoyable it has to have one of the simplest rulesets ever. Just progress through the gears in a linear fashion and follow the lights. On the side, light up all of the traffic lights and lock a ball each time.

The old fashioned way to get CHAOS multiball is to start Triball multiball, hit a jackpot ramp and then shoot each target that has a letter of chaos flashing (Power Shed, Gate Ramp, Control Room, Visitor's Center and Bunker) while in multiball. That will start a 6 ball multiball, then to light super jackpots you have to hit all the CHAOS targets again during CHAOS multiball. That will light the gate and helicopter shots for super jackpot. I have yet to get a super jackpot (or finish spelling CHAOS during CHAOS multiball, I got down to just needing the C once...so close).

The easy way for CHAOS as said above is to hit a jackpot ramp during Triball and then hit the smart missile which will award all lit targets giving you CHAOS multiball.

#5404 2 years ago

If the switch is ok then you may have a wire disconnected somewhere else in the switch daisy chain. I would trace that color wire to other switches and make sure you don’t have a wire loose somewhere.

#5407 2 years ago

Glad it was an easy fix! I had the same problem last week when one of my ball trough switches went out, broken wire elsewhere.

#5420 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?
When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.
On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.
What do you guys have on yours?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I had the same setup on mine, no post on the left outlane but my machine had wire installed across that outlane to completely close it off, I guess to make the game easier. When I saw the predrilled hole I assumed (it sounds like incorrectly) that there used to be a post there but it had been removed or broken and someone had put the wire across there to protect the outlane plastic from drains without the post.

So I installed a post on that side and the game plays fine with the post there. I would think that left outlane would drain very easily with no post there but I don’t know for sure since I never played mine without a post. I did some research and I saw several playfield shots with the post there so I assumed it was was factory.

1 month later
#5791 2 years ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?
I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.

Mine is similar. Probably 10% of the time the ball exits the pops SDTM. I figured that’s why there’s a ball save!

1 week later
#5842 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just had my best game since I've owned the pin for a couple of months - 812K (5 ball, ROM v6.0). I made it all the way through shutdown, but I missed so many opportunities along the way. After playing JP over the past several weeks now, what keeps my attention are the mini-games within the game. You can make it all the way through the CRTs, but still not score well if you don't fulfill the challenges along the way.

Nice score! I definitely agree the 6.0 code is a MASSIVE upgrade to this machine. When I first got mine and played the stock code I was considering selling it after a few weeks. Since I have installed the 6.0 code, done an LED conversion and dialedin/shopped the machine it is a real pleasure to play and is no longer on the chopping block!

My best game on 6.0 code had two Triballs, accomplished CHAOS once for the super jackpots and got system failure. My machine is set for 3 balls but I think I had two or three extra balls that game.

#5870 2 years ago

My best game is around 760 million I think. Similar to above, I used smart missile to start CHAOS then was able to hit the 5 CHAOS shots to start the super jackpots on the ramp.

One thing I have found helpful as well, especially to get a shot at a second Triball, is to hit the center ramp over and over off of the left flipper. It's a pretty easy shot once you know where it is and you can get Mr. DNA multiple times which will offer a Triball ready option about 25% of the time. Also can start Super Egg multiball which is fun too. Lastly I think you get an extra ball when you've shot that ramp like 8 or 10 times, I forget which.

#5875 2 years ago

I used the translucent kit they have in their database. Seemed complete and has the slim stern type sleeve on one of the egg posts which is apparently factory.

#5918 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Whelp, I cheated. I added a post on the left outlane but finally got to total system shutdown. Gotta open the lanes back up a bit. This game is still my favorite.

Mine also has a post there. I wasn’t trying to cheat and thought that dimple meant there was supposed to be a post there, lol.

I have to say I’m glad it’s there now though.

#6018 1 year ago

I've been having some issues with the ball getting stuck in the right corner of the T Rex metal area, above the saucer. If I hit the area hard the ball hits the left side of the saucer area and jumps up into the upper metal area and gets stuck in that right corner. I have to tilt the machine to get the ball to feed back down which of course causes the machine to tilt.

Any ideas?

1 week later
#6194 1 year ago

I may switch my blue LEDs over to white for the same reason, I kind of prefer the light blue over the darker blue

1 week later
#6246 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Hello everyone. Got some cool news (or at least I think its cool). lol
I am starting a YouTube channel that will be mostly dedicated to pinball restoration. Many of you have followed my restoration threads and I appreciate all the feedback. It's fun so I thought I would expand a little bit. I will still have my restore threads but I hope to add videos that compliment and show what and how I do things instead of just pictures.
Jurassic Park makes an appearance in one of my first videos as I show how to fix a Rottendog flipper board that I installed in my JP. Simple fix but it might help someone.
I have a few videos up and would appreciate any comments. Keep in mind that I am just starting this so I will get better. Please be gentle.

Nice! As a budding pinball refurbisher (can’t call myself a restorer yet) I’ll be watching! See you at TPF!

1 week later
#6348 1 year ago

Having a new flipper issue. My right flipper was very weak and cleaning contacts didn't seem to matter so I decided to do a flipper rebuild. Bought the kit from Pinball Life and rebuilt all flippers. Soldered in all the wires as they were before. Turned on the machine and all was wonderful for two games. Right flipper was back to full strength, working great.

Then suddenly right lower flipper stops working completely. Right upper flipper is fine. Remove the glass and the right lower flipper just vibrates slightly when the flipper button is pressed. You can't see it but you can feel it with your finger. I rechecked the wire connections and they seem fine. Also metered out all the fuses on the flipper board and they are ok. Flipper moves freely by hand, no binding in the coil sleeve itself. Flipper will hold up when moved by hand but won't fire so it's the high voltage side that's the issue.

Ideas on where to go next?

#6350 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Try cleaning your EOS and flipper contacts again. On mine, the set of contacts on the flipper button were not "square" and the amount of contact surface area must have been too small to carry enough current.

Did that, no effect.

#6351 1 year ago

A little more info. When I reinstalled the flippers I noticed that the wires were reversed on the EOS switches on the pics I took before removing them. On the left flipper the blue wire goes to the shorter leaf of the EOS switch and the brown wire goes to the long leaf. The right flipper was opposite, blue to long leaf and brown to short leaf. I resoldered them the same way thinking this must be correct.

Also I notice that I don’t get an LED on the flipper board when I just close the first switch on the right but I do get an LED when the second switch gets closed.

Here’s the flipper in question:
image (resized).jpg

#6353 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Swap flipper switches.

Not clear on what you are meaning here? EOS switches or flipper button switches?

#6358 1 year ago

Problem solved, it was the new EOS switch. I guess it either had some residual material on the contact from manufacturing or the switch didn't have quite enough tension to stay closed at rest. I ohmed out the EOS switch and it was clearly not making contact. I cleaned it and readjusted it and everything is back to normal.

Thanks guys!

#6368 1 year ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Has anyone found good LED replacements to upgrade the look of the “shoot the T-Rex when lit” lamp and the T-R-E-X indicator lamps on the apron? I’m thinking in these modern times there must be an upgrade to the old “bulb condom” look.

I just put non ghosting LEDs in there with no condom. Works fine.

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