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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,324 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 198 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#9 6 years ago
Quoted from louknees:

I usually use the smart missile right after I hit the jackpot to take care of chaos and get the 6 ball multiball going.
250 million is my top score. Not easy and some modes don't score a lot of points.

That's not a smart move...wait until you fail on spelling CHAOS the first time yourself, and when you get down to one ball immediately fire the missle. You'll still get the 6 ball multiball at that point, but if you succeed with that first CHAOS on your own you can use the missle for the 2nd Chaos, which opens up the 50 million shot at t-rex...oooooorrrrr save it for the super jackpots after the t-rex shot if you can!!!!

1 month later
#41 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Two things. Filing the dents out of the trough didn't seem to help, so wtf? Now I'm going to try putting washers between the playfield and trough to increase the slope and hope extra gravity helps.
Second. I know a problem is that control room shots can bounce over the switch. Has anyone tried putting a little foam pad on the bottom of that trough to help stop the bouncing? Any other tips for preventing that?

It doesn't bounce over...if it's not registering it's a bad switch/connection to switch.

1 month later
#126 6 years ago
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:

My game came with a set of each.

I think all came with both...I have both, like the blue better.

4 weeks later
#142 6 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Anyone have a tip on the upper right flipper alignment. It seems I rarely hit the loop and maybe I need to change the angle forward or back.

It's just a really tough shot. You'll get better at it over time. Two loops in a row is rare, three is near impossible, four IS impossible.

5 months later
#275 5 years ago

Check ball guide, center ball with plunger tip, rebuild plunge coil...in that order.

2 months later
#377 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Almost the entire time I've had JP, I almost never got triball before ball 3. One particularly difficult dino target was the triceratops one because the front blade that has the plastic target riveted on would kind of rotate by getting bashed from the side to where it would bind on the bracket behind the switch, thus rarely making contact. I've been tuning up my game in preparation for bringing it to an expo and noticed a few of the other switches were loose, too. I took them out from under the playfield and tightended up the screws in the switch stacks. These targets are much easier to hit now and I'm often getting triball on ball 1, but at least by ball 2 most times.
Anyway, thought I'd mention it in case anyone else has issues with their dino targets.

Had the same issue on the targets above the gate to the pops. Easy fix.

3 weeks later
#421 5 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

I generally hate mods, but I'm terribly interested in this.
I'd like to see how the LEDs are set up and whatnot. I might want warm instead of cool LEDs, but this is one of those rare things I think I'd actually do to my game.

I agree the lighting is a little cold...but interested in a warmer light.

1 month later
#516 5 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

In no way a challenge but I'm happy with goat and insert light

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

You should make the light red and tie it to the red feed Trex light.

#520 5 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

It is tied in to that circuit, I put a red LED in but the insert is yellow and it looks weird so I just went with a warm white LED.

Ahh, right! Still looks awesome!

1 month later
#599 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

This is normal. These two lamps are part of the GI... they are not part of the lamp matrix. Will always be on whenever the GI is on.

What he said...always on.

#601 5 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

image.jpg image.jpg
It's hard to see but that was kinda the point. I thought it was an eye sore just unfinished metal. With the metallic chrome paint on the back it's more reflective. I put red orange and yellow LEDs and it actually matches the sunset really well but it's hard to see in the pic.

Looks the same to me.

1 week later
#681 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Does this post serve a purpose? I've seen photos of others having this same post in the same spot. I thought it was a hack, because they lost a nut and had one of these laying around.
2015-07-03 22.22.26.jpg

Yep, just helps prevent a rare ball trap.

#707 5 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I wanted to do a quick price check on my JP. It is the nicest one I have ever seen even from all the pics on pinside. Mostly stock, but has lots of LEDs and white captive ball and cliffys. Was HUO from NY and I purchased a while back. There is not a scratch on it anywhere and the playfield is mint. Cabinet still looks like it came out of the box 20+ years ago. Everything works 100% and was shopped 3 months ago. The only real flaw I can find on it is a very small paint chip on the bottom of T-rex mouth. I only want to sell if the return will help benefit a couple other pins I have been wanting. I just want some honest feedback to see what people think I could get for a really nice JP.

Crazy nice, about $3k I'd say, but that thing better be close to mint. Even then it might be a tough sell.

1 week later
#789 5 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

oh wow i didnt know that. I knew something else was lighting it cause sometimes I could get 2 modes without going in the shed. Nice. I will try this next game

Technically its just the right inlane. The left inlane lights the dock to collect a dinosaur towards multiball.

#795 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I don't think that's right. Left inlane lights dock and CR and right inlane lights Advance X and CR.

Hmmm...pretty sure it's not like that on my game. I'll have to check now. You might be right.

1 week later
#814 5 years ago
Quoted from hawk370:

20150801_194800.jpg
My machine is missing a bumper post above the lane divider(can be seen in the picture) i need to know what it looks like and where to get one. hopefully it is one that is easily obtainable. also what type screw holds down the post?
Thanks in advance for any help, Mike

Thats how its supposed to be. Don't change it!

1 month later
#911 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I found several of my JP targets were dead stiff too. The problem is because the targets are 3D shapes as opposed to flat faces. This means they have to be aligned pretty much perfectly for the ball action to push the target backward. If not aligned correctly the plastic target hits the metal bracket behind it.
This may or may not be the issue with yours?

Agree...mine had this issue too. Align the targets and them tighten them down. Shouldn't be a dead target with zero give.

1 month later
#1216 5 years ago

It's a great update...multiball is much harder to get, egg mania is attainable and cool, no more "go go go go go go go go" EVERY time to start, randomized skill shot, points balancing so modes are better balanced (along with balancing of park revenue and mr DNA). It's the polish it always needed. Oh, and it finally activates the Last Action Hero preview and allows you to skip trex diagnostics on boot. Nice touch.

1 week later
#1348 4 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

When Tri-ball starts all the letters in CHAOS are lit on the playfield. Completing the associated shot unlights its letter. C: Bunker, H: Pop Bumpers, A: Control Room, O: Ramp, S: Power Shed. When you've completed all CHAOS shots you get a wicked 'CHAOS!' callout and balls are launched from the shooter lane until you've got six balls in play. Then you're in CHAOS multiball.
If you can't start CHAOS multiball then a switches associated with one of the key shots is possibly broken.

Correction...there are two jackpots lit at the start of triball (loop and ramp). Hitting one of those lights the CHAOS letters. Get all of those and the 6 ball "CHAOS" multiball starts where you have to get the CHAOS letters again, then jackpot shots lite, then trex after that.

#1388 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

I was going to put a colorDMD in mine. But this seems like a much better idea since they will prob never color JP. How difficult was it to set this up with smartDMD?

They did do popeye...JP ColorDMD is coming, mark my words.

#1393 4 years ago
Quoted from phollibone:

Had a look, and switch wires look connected fine, I have attached a photo of how it looks.
But to confirm behaviour, the Stampede CRT flashes all game (except during Tri-ball). Putting the ball into the control room chute doesn't do anything other than spit the ball out. I have tried to manually activate the switch and again no action happens. So is it safe to assume the switch is gone?

image.jpeg image_1.jpeg

Dude...the diode is broke off one side. Put a new one on or solder that one back on. I bet the switch is fine. Mine was the same way when I first got it.

On second look, the whole leg is broke off your switch. Get a new switch AND a diode and you'll be good to go.

#1415 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Below are pix from my JP, and the bunker looks like yours (except for the hot glue!) but the control room does not have a diode and has two additional wires. Mine does work - do you have a couple of loose wires in the vicinity? Or maybe mine is hacked?
bunker switch.JPG
control room switch.JPG

I would say that's hacked.

Quoted from markp99:

Looks to be slightly different hook-up between us on the Control Room switch; just a single Wht/Grn wire here. Interesting.
11-11-2015 4-28-47 PM.png

That looks right.

#1418 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Wow, thanks. So it is obvious which wires are the hack, but what the heck should I do with them once disconnected from the switch?

Well, I'd trace them back and see where they go. There should be a diode in there. Maybe you have an early prototype or something where it was done differently?

#1420 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Here's a guess:
That diode connection sees a lot of shock (note my 3 repairs on this joint since 2000). Maybe someone just hung the diode remotely across the 2 extra wires on the outside legs of the switch as a form of shock relief.
Dunno?

That's my thought too.

#1422 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

markp99 and Pimp77 - you win the prize! I traced it and found exactly what you described. Those two extra wires off the switch go to this connector with the diode. The two wires on the right get buried in the mass of wires that pass by, so not sure how to trace those. Since this uses wires with what appear to be original markings, do you think this might be an original setup and not a hack?

Off_switch_diode.jpg

Possible. That setup is actually better than the original since it eliminates the chance of vibration breaking the diodes legs again. Id call it an improvement, not a hack.

#1433 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

New question for JP owners. As I was making the above repair I found a note written on a piece of masking tape on a pair of clipped wires tucked under the harness in the lower left front of the cabinet. The note said, "To knocker coil striped side".
Is there supposed to be a knocker in this game? I found a reference on pg 41 of the manual, but I am not sure where this would have been attached.
Any pointers? Worth adding? I've been clueless on this feature since getting this game in 2000 (though mostly in storage since 2005), and never missed it.

Yes, there's a knocker. It's in the cabinet bottom, not the head.

1 month later
#1598 4 years ago
Quoted from NFK:

You only get one dino target. You lite the dock with the left inlane, the raptor in the DMD is always random and rather rare. Technically you can collect every target with dock, cracking egg or waiting for a raptor, but it will give you one of the easier dino targets before the upper ones. That's why you want to be quick with the easier targets before a raptor is showing in the DMD.
Otherwise my advise would be to shoot the ramp and than the dock every time the ball gets to the left inlane.
With the ramp you can always start a mode (right inlane -> control room) or get a dino target (left inlane -> dock) + getting Mr. DNA by multiple shoots. That's why the ramp is a lot more important with the new code.

The old code did it via the boat dock...it's only new for the "video" kill.

#1605 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

I believe the egg shot spotting the targets is new as well

Does it? I didn't know the new did that too...nice!

1 month later
#1742 4 years ago

Stock, but don't know the coil # off the top of my head.

2 weeks later
#1828 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Spitter mode and Stampede - anyone else feel like these modes are a waste or am I doing it wrong? Seems very similar, just hitting random targets which likely result in drains.

They are totally different modes...spitter mode requires you to hit the spitter targets on the left. Stampede is a frenzy mode when any switch scores points (best to go for pops, but they're hard to reach).

Edit: What Chad said.

#1871 4 years ago
Quoted from PinsOnly:

That looks great, how big is it?

That's what she said!

#1886 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

John Arnold:
"All security systems are shutting down."
"Hold onto your butts."

The T-Rex quote is only for the match screen. Also "Oh no, it's T-Rex!" per the code update.

Isn't it "T-Rex got him"?

4 weeks later
#2056 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Sorry, just one more. Loving it! The white and blue inserts are just so vivid, not quite conveyed in the photo.

3-31-2016_10-44-56_PM.png

I went with a darker blue on mine and changed the two-ball inserts to purple to differentiate the white modes. Went with a lighter blue on the other blue mode to differentiate that too. Kept GI incandescent. Looks similar to yours actually.

2 weeks later
#2107 4 years ago

Ditto.

#2126 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Here's an odd one for me, and can't figure out why it would be doing this.
Every once in awhile just the left flipper will act like a connection isn't being made, and will sometimes activate a few quick times then die. Or will flip a split second and die.
After I rebuilt the machine, it did this. Found out that if I cleaned the contacts on the left flipper button switch, it was fixed. BUT...the problem seems to be coming back every few months or so. It just started happening again last night after not doing it for quite a while.
While cleaning between the contacts does help it, why is it just the left flipper switch that keeps loosing contact? I've had no problems with the right one. And all switches are brand new. Even the EOS switches on the flippers.
But signs point that it's the actual left button switch. Just don't understand why I always need to clean that one. Is it improperly finished and getting more oxidation than all the other switches?

Check the fuse clips for the flippers...located in cab on left side wall I believe. They're know to deteriorate and not make good contact.

2 weeks later
#2143 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

Does anybody's Trex go down for a second bite after just swallowing a ball? Thanks!

Nope, sounds like a flaky switch.

#2145 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

Time for some investigative work it seems. This morning I tested around with it and have gathered a couple clues.
When the ball goes into the saucer the trex comes down and swallows it as normal. It then comes back down and up again but doesn't close its jaw. This is exactly what occurs when the trex is supposed to eat the ball from the saucer but the ball is removed before it can be swallowed.
Next I took a flathead and manually pressed and held down the saucer switch. The trex did its proper routine but this time it did not come down for a second bite. This makes me think something down the line after swallowing the ball is causing this issue. The only things after that are the trex subway switch and VUK. I tested the switches on both in the switch test and both appear to be properly operating.
I would guess the saucer switch may be faulty but I have doubts as after the first swallow the saucer switch uses the kicker to kick the ball out of the saucer. If there was a second false switch activation I would imagine the saucer would kick as opposed to send the trex down.
My next test though a PITA to setup properly due to all the balls is to lift the playfield and have the trex swallow the ball but stop the ball before it hits the subway switch and see how it reacts. Repeat but have the ball hit the subway switch but not the VUK and again observe the reaction.
My guess is that the VUK is rattling something causing the trex to go down but as of right now that's just a total guess.

I'd guess trex up or down switch needs adjustment or replacement.

2 weeks later
#2217 4 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

How's the hum? Got mine a month or so ago. I've got the good ol' Data East hum in mine.

We all do! LOL

#2256 4 years ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

The only wear is just a tad on one of the scoops. Just on the wood part, it hasn't made it to the painted part yet. Playfield is great no insert wear or anything. One flipper is a little sluggish. Cabinet is really good only one bad spot on one side of the head as the pic shows. Not one I'm probably going to keep, so the first 1,900.00 gets it. If it doesn't sell I'll look into the problem later and fix it and ask more for it.

So you bought it just to flip?

1 month later
#2457 4 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I was a bit nervous, but I figured there really wasn't too much that could have gone wrong. Even with some holes in the side they would still be 100% functional and it's in a spot that you'd never see. It might be possible to do two colors, but I'm probably not going to try to squeeze in another hole. To me the "C", "A", and "S" shots are pretty easy to understand since they are also illuminated by playfield inserts. I'd rather just highlight the System Startup, Computer Screen, Park Revenue, and Mr. DNA.
Can someone do me a favor? In this process I think I switched some wires on the subway switches. Whenever I hit either scoop it acts like I'm hitting the right scoop. Could you please take a picture or describe the wiring of these switches. The ball still ejects fine so I'm not quite sure how they function.

You're problem is the switch between the two scoops in the subway. That tells the game the right scoop was hit. It's a VERY common issue as that switch takes a beating. Verify that it registers in test mode and then make sure a ball triggers it when rolling through the subway. Adjust/fix as necessary. Check the diode too.

2 months later
#2607 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Hey I think I fixed T Rex. He seems a little noisy and slow going left to right. should I use anything to lubricate underneath?
Thx

Disable the left/right movement.

3 weeks later
#2693 4 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

The original black rubber was so cracked, dead and broken, worst I've seen on a game I think. Shopped this out and made a red rubber kit at titanpinball.com with some corrections because the manual is incorrect. Some leds, and flashers. I am now just waiting on the new rom and cliffy scoop protectors, it plays like new!

What's the deal with those weird post sleeves with the nipples on top?

#2696 3 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

What makes the post sleeves weird? They're threaded at the top, so figured why not color match with acorns.

I've just never seen those nipples before I guess...didn't realize they were separate.

3 months later
#2981 3 years ago
Quoted from JP1993:

Thanks for the suggestions on my T-Rex/flipper issues--I am traveling for most of this week but will try out the suggested fixes this weekend and report back. Thanks for the help!
To clarify - he seems to do all the correct motions including going all the way down (in the right alignment) when the ball is in the saucer--he just doesn't pick it up (doesn't "close" his mouth around it), so the ball stays in the saucer and then gets kicked out. Even though he doesn't pick the ball up, he still raises up like he has it and chomps a few times too at the end. Seems like the issue is just not closing his jaws around the ball when it is in the saucer. Out of curiosity, is there a magnet/solinoid involved in this process or is it just mechanical closing of the mouth/jaws around the ball?
Thanks again!

No magnet in the t-rex mouth. Just solenoids for chomping.

#2988 3 years ago
Quoted from Time:

Learned tonight the in lane lamps "Lite ADV X" and "Lite Dock" are wired to GI. When I discovered this I thought my machine is funky. Thats kind of strange no? But that seems to be what the book says and youtube videos of others machines show the same thing.
Been have a problem with GI. I changed the molex connector on the switch board and cleaned the headers. Got some extra GI working but not everything. Such a bummer. Really thought I'd have my JP working tonight. Thinking I'll try changing the header pins tomorrow night.

Yep, those are GI.

4 months later
#3287 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Pulled it apart and mine couldn't move down enough with where the guides screw holes were.
Ended up bending it with a screw driver braced against a rail prior to the exit so it changed its direction.
In the pics you can see how much deviation was required, dirt line shows when the guide was.

You need to clean that game!

2 weeks later
#3323 3 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, the shaker on my JP seems to be shaking much more vigorously than when I bought it. I seem to remember reading at some point there is a way to calibrate the shaker if that happens? Any help/advice would be much appreciated.

You can adjust the position of the weights on it, but I'm not sure how it could get more vigorous by itself.

#3330 3 years ago

JP doesn't have slide rails...it has pegs. They are crap though.

2 weeks later
#3381 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Hi guys
I've noticed on some JP's they have a decal around the scoop in front of the T. rex. Mine is bare wood.
Is this an after market mod (like Congo in lane plastics) or factory?
If it is a mod, does anyone know where it's from or have a scanned copy I could have?
Kind regards
Gaz

It's factory.

#3386 3 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I just cleaned and waxed my new JP and now the skill shot goes into the power shed every time from above the upper right flipper. Where is it supposed to go to, and how can I adjust it?

It's supposed to go into the pops. Adjust the ball guide in the path of the ball curving towards the pops from the right side of the game in the shooter lane.

#3389 3 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Yes. Yes it has.

LOL, yep!

#3411 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I have a question about mirrored blades that always puzzled me. If you have to lift the playfield, do you have to take the blades off? If not, do you run the risk of scratching them when lifting the playfield? I always thought the playfield was already really close to the inside cabinet wall so I wasn't sure if blades ever interfered.

You have to be REALLY careful. I've seen some people install felt on the edges of their pfs to help too.

1 month later
#3604 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Thanks to a fellow pinside member i've obtained a new t-rex lower jaw plastic that I have yet to install.
I have noticed that most machines jaw plastics are chipped in the middle.
Has anyone looked at how this can be prevented?
My rex jaw does have the two metal tabs on it. Is it enough as my old jaw was chipped also but as I don't know the history of this machine I don't know if the chipping happened before or after the newer style jaw was installed.

Yes, buy the new improved T-Rex!

#3650 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It probably ships with batteries installed. Yikes.

It was $500!!!! That's a deal at 5 times the price!

1 month later
#3709 3 years ago

Winner.

#3723 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I can clearly picture that T-Rex saying, "Hi! My name is Fred. What's your name? I like to eat balls."

Are you hearing him with a lisp too?

2 weeks later
#3789 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Anyone have any new or used blue or red slingshot plastics they’d like to unload? Blue preferred but I’d buy red at the right price. Working on filling up my stocking early
Pm me what you got.

Just to be clear...there’s no red, only orange and blue.

#3800 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Just to be clear, I can’t find any mention of colors in the manual so I’d enjoy seeing your proof that what I call a red plastic is actually orange.

LOL, not that it matters but I think we’re both right. It starts red at the top, but is predominantly orange shades. Took me a while to find this pic because everyone seems to agree that the blue ones look much better on the game.

7468D1E4-01AA-4114-90D9-875F3EBBD19B (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#3829 2 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Here are some photos that I had previously taken on those areas on my JP. Hopefully this helps you out.
Gord

Yours is wrong...should not have rubber on the posts there.

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