(Topic ID: 80267)
Linked Games
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
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1 month later
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2 months later
Here’s another mpu option.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6233946
3 months later
Quoted from KenH:I worked on a JP that had this problem. The l/r movement was so sluggish, that the trex could not find his center before the CPU would disable the l/r movement.
To correct the problem, I added full-wave rectification for the l/r motor, which greatly improved the trex l/r movement. If you look at the circuit board above, you'll see 3 diodes. 2 are for full wave rectification of the shaker motor, and 1 is for half wave rectification of the trex l/r motor. Since the AC feed for this comes from a center-tapped part of the transformer (see manual pg. 46), you can easily add one diode and one fuse to the circuit board above and feed a full wave rectified signal to the l/r motor (see page 49, left side). If you want to change it back to half wave rectified (original) later, you simply remove one of two the fuses for the l/r motor.
[quoted image][quoted image]I worked on a JP that had this problem. The l/r movement was so sluggish, that the trex could not find his center before the CPU would disable the l/r movement.
To correct the problem, I added full-wave rectification for the l/r motor, which greatly improved the trex l/r movement. If you look at the circuit board above, you'll see 3 diodes. 2 are for full wave rectification of the shaker motor, and 1 is for half wave rectification of the trex l/r motor. Since the AC feed for this comes from a center-tapped part of the transformer (see manual pg. 46), you can easily add one diode and one fuse to the circuit board above and feed a full wave rectified signal to the l/r motor (see page 49, left side). If you want to change it back to half wave rectified (original) later, you simply remove one of two the fuses for the l/r motor.
I posted this question on an old thread that was marked solved, so this might be a better place to ask .
I’m looking to add full wave rectification for the left right motor and I want to double check so I don’t mess anything up.
Am I running a wire with fuse and diode from the gry-grn wire on J1 to the gry-blu wire on J3?
4DA58DEC-BA2C-487F-8D2C-FDCCE745AEA6 (resized).png856B0955-6074-4BE0-84C3-75E56010605C (resized).jpegFBC98300-EF1E-4478-91BE-1D74A9E4E543 (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Quoted from Toine79:Could somebody post me some close-up pictures of the Cn1 connector and the wiring of that connector on the power supply board?
I cannot read the colors on the schematics in my manual. Thanks.
72ED3758-C381-4F35-93D9-2E3A5FDF711D.jpegQuoted from Marco1973:Making the pictures I posted, I saw some cable desoldered.
So, now it's your turn.
Can someone post a picture to show me where they are to be soldered to ?
Thx
[quoted image]
DF907163-108E-472A-8067-A69059EF3593.jpegQuoted from BleacherBum:Per the wiring on my JP (see attached picture) assuming that this is the same location as your request
The yellow/blue.wire attaches to the same point as the double yellow wires. The red/blue wire attaches to the terminal on the right that is currently not occupied. That terminal also has a small bit of the red wire that someone has cut off.
It appears that both of those wires were cut. It is curious as to why. After reattaching those wires I would have my finger on the off switch when powering up just in case things go sideways.
Phil[quoted image]
Thanks!
8 months later
Quoted from Jackaltr:New to the club. I really need T-Rex teeth. I need them very badly. Is that mod still available at all?
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