Stage flipping is the pinball lingo. I had to look it up the first time I heard it.

Okay, hive mind, help me out.

I recently replaced fuse clips on my flipper board when my left flipper died. I had a bunch that were weak and not holding together anymore.

After replacing clips, left flipper still doesn't work. All connections seem good and I'm comparing everything to the right flipper. After flipping 8 or 9 times on the right, left flipper comes back to life.

I've played about 20 games since and the left flipper has gone dead mid-game a few times only to be resurrected by furious flipping on the right. Should I resolder my clips or are we looking at a different problem? Help point me in the correct direction on a fix. Thanks.

Well, the flipper has stayed on through a good number of games and I did check and clean out the switches. I pulled the board out and continuity was good on my new soldered clips.

Now, T-Rex has started confusing his left with his right. In manual diagnostics, he will move left and sometimes right. When behaving correctly, there is a "ting" as he activates and goes to the right (if I have the coin door open, I can hear it. Sometimes, though, no noise and right flipper makes him go to the left. If I give the cab a slap on the right (like keeping the ball out of the slings), I hear the noise and right flipper again returns Rex to the right.

I looked through this thread and someone else had a similar problem but I didn't see any solutions and that poster hasn't been on the forum in over a year.

It’s this guy.

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So, quoting myself to update on the "fix".

Since the click and lack of correct movement was related to the Bi-Directional Assembly, I pulled it off and took a look. I checked continuity and all was well. Still, two of the connections looked iffy. I reflowed solder to those two and reinstalled. Since then, Rexy has been downright frisky. He's been checking out all the action, left AND right. He still squeaks a bit but that's 25 year old lubrication for you. Hope this helps anyone else in the same boat, now or in the future.

You can go into the adjustments menu and turn off "Graphic Realism". Keeps Rexy from tearing the goat in half and eating him on the DMD during "Feed T-Rex". If your 7 year old isn't into that sort of thing.

It also just says "Too Late" and shows a spitter at the end of that mode instead of having Nedry turn in to a skeleton. The raptor still explodes when she randomly runs across the screen and you gun her down, though. Not sure how graphic that is on Color DMD.

Is there a way to tell if the EOS switches have been replaced? I know one bulletin mentions changing them out instead of doing the board work.

Maybe it's just me, but I feel you need to work on your kerning (space between letters). My brain keeps reading the word SEXTINCT.

For a while, my Rex would only turn right when he felt like it. I redid the solder on the motor under the playfield and he's back to normal. Not sure if that is the answer you were looking for.

Rebuilt the flippers today. I now know I need to order new spring brackets. They springs have actually cut quite a groove into the metal. I'm guessing these were the original flippers. I also learned about Data East flipper pawls and how they are only threaded on one side. That detour took longer than planned.

So, mid-way through ball 2 today, I hear something firing that shouldn't be. Put the ball in the scoop to start a mode and it shoots it right back at me. Get it cradled and pop open the coin door. Sure enough, left scoop is firing. However, it is firing to the beat of the music (I think it was the end of Stampede). That mode finishes and things are seemingly back to normal until the knocker starts firing during the current mode.

I have unresolved issues with the flashers that are listed in parallel with knocker, left scoop and ball release. (Data East L/R deal). So, should I be looking at the Q39-46 transistors? I saw an old thread about unwanted coils firing but no replies or solutions.

Check the audits and adjustments settings for T-Rex, number 44 (T.Rex Move Left-Right). It is often turned off in games with older roms as the movement could cause issues with the motor. You will need to Expand Audits/Adjustments in that same menu, #12.

Adjustment 32 - Flash Lamps. I took mine off Normal and see pretty well when playing these days.

Under the playfield, there is a bolt that is threaded through the pawl on the flipper. With JP, the opposite side has a red cap on it to open the EOS switch. Loosen that bolt, move the flipper to the correct position and tighten it down. The JP pawls have only one side threaded, so if someone put the bolt in the wrong way, the flipper will never stay tight.

https://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/515-5051-00/large.jpg

My C and A are both chewed up but I figure I won't be making it that much worse. Cliffy's can cause rejects and I get plenty of rejects as is still. I guess it depends on if it bothers you or not.

My guess is to check the clips for the fuses on the flipper board in the cabinet. If you push on the fuse and there is give, the clips need replaced. I had an intermittent left flipper. Fixing the fuse clips fixed the problem.

Decals from Deutschland sent through your fake PO box. That's on my list of things to do in the future.
[edit]
Wait, does that say Budapest? @davi sent you his trough switch.

Damn, you're probably right. Unless it is a unicorn!

Chalkey gave me this advice a few months back.

"If you moosh together the eos contacts (or bridge them with a test lead) does it flip? There is a service bulletin about this issue. I had it happen after doing a flipper rebuild kit."

Also, Lonzo suggests the following: "During the time that it is dead, are you getting the red light on the flipper board? Also check your connections to the flipper board. When it is dead, try moving the connectors around. May need a new connector or the solder may need re-flowed on the pins."

So, check those EOS switch contacts and check your fuses/fuse clips on the flipper board.

Mr_Tantrum You will need to go into the Audit & Adjustment functions. Go past the last one, (#12 Expand Audits) to get to Adjustments. From there, you'll want to look at #4 Game Awards (Factory set to Credit). Hit start to switch from Credit to Extra Ball.

Another trough in the world. I'll need to increase the length of the wires for power (for playfield lifting purposes) but it is up and running. Simple process.

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The holes on my opto board were slightly off as well. When I screwed one side completely down, the other side had issues. I broke two screws and stripped another one. Then, I started both screws just a bit and tightened until things were good enough. I'd say that probably helped in that I wouldn't end up going to far and end up going through the protector. I re-aligned afterwards to get things all light correctly and it's been golden ever since.

Thanks to @davi, my power supply is all nice and tidy now.

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Well, now the mod needs to be increased to go all the way down the shooter lane. Gotta be true to the movie.

https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/jurassic-park-dino-taser-prod.116158/

Not sure if we are on the right track with the taser. This thread seems to suggest it just looks like a speargun with an XLR cable wrapped around it.

They are pricing their model at $250 but you can buy something similar around $150. Then, you have to figure out video on your own.

This has happened to a lot of folks and, recently, to myself. You need to check the wires inside the gray tubing that runs from the T-rex coil under and around the collar on the playfield. My black wire was split in half. So, Rex could close her jaws in the upright position because the wires were touching. When she would bend down, the wires were not connected, so no more jaw action.

Folks on here have suggested just replacing both wires all the way from the coil to the underside of the playfield where it connects. That's the best course of action if you can't find an obvious split. Plus, if you do both, less worry for down the road.

T-Rex now has some grass at the front of her pen. Thanks @mr_tantrum.

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Slightly more expensive at Marco. Not sure on shipping.

Can someone check these wires for me? This is a lamp down in the bottom left hand corner (T-Rex side). Mine doesn't work and I've check it out with my DMM. I've got a new socket on order but a closer inspection of the wires has me wondering. It seems odd that both wires for that socket are coming from the same terminal.

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Thanks. I mean, it seems a simple fix but that's often when I cause myself problems. I figure I'll take the wires off tonight and hook it up the way all the other circuits are wired. I'm pretty sure that isn't the original wiring anyway on that last socket.

Throwing "caution" to the wind, I rewired it and the socket works now. Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the matter. No pictures are now necessary.

You need to check out the bi-directional relay. It is in the middle of the playfield, not necessarily back by T-Rex. I did a solder reflow on mine and that fixed the problem when my T-rex would only go left.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/91#post-4571777

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

It is not this. The ball is not released from the trough into the kicker (i.e. no ball to even touch the switch in the video). However, the kicker is constantly firing as if a ball is there. I'll try to get a video later today.

I think we are on the right track. I tried twice to recreate the issue and it failed both times. During those times, I just let every ball drain. No issues with System Failure. The third time, I played it like normal. The problem shows up after all six balls are in play and the trough is empty. The game does not release a ball into the VUK but continues to fire.

I went back and watched the wires at the top of the screen. They move slightly when the ball is released to the VUK. From what I can tell, the release fires after the 6th ball has been kicked into the shooter lane. When the first ball returns to the trough, the release does not kick again. It is like the game thinks there is a ball in the VUK that just can't be cleared.

I was able to recreate this idea by taking off the apron and starting a new game. I manually slid the balls away from the release before it fired to start the game. I then let the balls go back to their starting positions in the trough. The kicker continued to fire a few times before the release engaged again to put a ball into the VUK.

I went into switch diagnostics to ensure that Trough Switch #7 (in the VUK) was functioning correctly. I even tried banging the playfield and shooter lane area to get it to trigger but everything checked out so it is not a faulty/closed switch.

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I found another way to easily trigger this issue with the trough "mostly" full. Go into Diagnostics and use the Flipper Button Ball/Trough Clear function. Grab the ball before the auto launch (I suggest using a magnet tool). My machine fires the auto launch (with no ball) and then the VUK kicks four or five times.

If anyone with a working copy of the game wants to try this for me, I'd be interested to see what your results are.

I can pop my original roms back in tomorrow if I remember where I put them and where they go. Unless anyone else wants to give it a go...

That's a no go for me. I can't find the old roms. I probably ditched them.

I was assuming he was talking about the mini switch for the VUK. I checked it and looks like it will be a PITA to switch it out. I think I'll wait this one out.

However, Stern likes to do controlled releases from their home base. Remember when they streamed Black Knight right after TPF?

I bought a rocker switch back when I got my machine (it didn’t have a switch at all). Still haven’t figured out what to do with the rocker because it didn’t fit my machine. That toggle you posted should work. That’s what I ended up installing.

Go back in time and buy winteriscoming 's T-Rex, go forward in time and buy winteriscoming 's T-Rex, plop down a bunch of money and purhcase someone else's winteriscoming 's T-Rex or make your own out of a takeout container like someone else in the thread did. One guy bought a T-Rex hand puppet and used that.

I concur with edward472 . If your trough is full but switch #2 isn't engaged, that could cause issues. Check the wiring there and make sure nothing is touching or shorted. Also, I'd check the right sling to see why it is active in switch test mode.

One step at a time.

If you are new new, here's how to do what others are suggesting. Open the coin door, press in the green button (so that it is lowered) inside and to the left, then push the black button. That will take you into the diagnostics. Push the black button again until you get to Active Switch Test. It will show you all the switches that are currently closed. My JP cycles through the following, Trough 1 - 6 and Trex Center and Trex Up. If your Rex is to the left or right, it may show that instead of center. No big deal. However, if anything else is showing, you'll want to check to see why the switch is currently closed.

That's where I would start. If everything looks good to go there, then I would continue pressing the black button until getting to the coil test. It will cycle through coils and flashers. You should be able to hear them kick when they come up on the screen. If not, your problems may lay elsewhere. Hopefully this will give you a place to start looking.

I would have left the balls in the trough to see if the switches are recognizing them since your game was giving you a missing pinball error originally.

This could be as simple as a loose connector. It looks like the coils for J1 are not firing but your auto launch is, which is on J2. With power off, plug and unplug that connector from the board in the backbox, then power back up and head into diagnostics.

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I've got my fingers crossed that it all worked out and you haven't reported back because everyone is having an awesome time playing JP.

And Data East fuse clips have been known to be brittle and bend/break. Of course, reseating a fuse typically makes it worse, not better.

Anyone can sign up to get the ability to make key posts. At one point, I read through this entire thread, all 7,000 posts. I tried to key post the things that seemed important that weren’t already marked. I’ve marked the previous post as a key, so there are now 57 in the thread. Hope it helps someone in the future.

I just bought a Space Shuttle. The owner's club is 48 pages long and there are ZERO keyposts. I just start from the beginning and look at it with newb eyes (which in this case, I am). Sometimes, the really old stuff is no longer even viable. Links to plastics, playfields, etc.

Mine are 28.5. All four. I'd put the longer ones in the back. Obviously, it would be like having 2 inch leg levelers all the way out.

Go into diagnostics and run a switch test.

Sometimes the vibration from the flipper can cause a switch to close. You can hit the playfield with your palm in random spots during switch test and see if any get triggered that shouldn't.

Probably the contacts are too close together. My Tri target has a tendency to lean, which could cause them to be closer than normal. If your's is good and upright, I'd check how much space there is between them. If you do need to fix the gap, make sure the game is powered off.

Shaker Test is in the diagnostic mode. It is in with Flash Lamp / Coil test. The shaker will barely function in that test mode, however. I believe it is just a single pulse. Nothing like it is in game.

The switches should be normally closed. If the red nub is extending past (and under) the stack, push the stack away from the coil so that the travel is greater before the nub hits the long side of the stack.

I have a pair of unused DE switches if you want them. PM me before the mail goes out today and you'll get them even quicker.

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https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-main-ramp-assembly.html
$185

Typically, the last audit or adjustment says "Expand Audits" or "Expand Adjustments". Click on Start to change it to Yes and the other options should be available. You do have to do that every time you are back in the menus, so there is not a save state.

Most of the big points on this game come from Tri-ball. One would assume you are getting a Super Jackpot in the second part of CHAOS with scores above 800 million. With more than 1 extra ball, you should also be hitting the System Failure wizard mode which will typically net at least 100 million.