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Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (10 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (10 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (9 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (9 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (9 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (9 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (9 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (9 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (9 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (9 years ago)

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[EDIT] So here's something I'm just not sure where to start. I replaced the ball diverter coil on the ramp and added a new spring to get mine back to functional. After soldering on the wires I started it back up and I immediately smelled ozone and my trex started trying to go left/right. I previously had disabled left right as my motor is shot.

Okay. Immediately unplugged. Waited a bit then turned back on and now none of my coils work. Except weirdly when you hold in either flipper button the right VUK slowly moves. Also my trex is no longer working at all. When in diagnostics none of the coils fire and the trex doesn't move at all.

I'm just at loss at to where to start. Tested F5 and it is blown. But i know that would generally be a sympton and not what really caused it. I smelled ozone in the backbox. And under playfield. Anyone have any ideas of where I should start?

Quoted from Neal_W:
When things go wrong after you touch something, start the investigation with what your were touching. You had the ball diverter out. Did a wire fall off the coil and touch something? Is the coil mounted in a position where it is now touching something? Are your sure the wires were reattached correctly?
I do not have access to my schematics now. Is F5 for the coil power?

F5 I believe controls the Flippers and 50 Volt coils on the PPB board.

Thanks for the calming moment. Went back and disconnected new coil and tested it. I must have shorted the diode as the coil reads fine (17.3 ohms) with diode disconnected but the diode reads .2 ohms. Will replace and replace fuse and see if i did any more damage. Tested my other coils on the playfield and they all read fine.

Quoted from tbaum:
So the one I'm looking at has a small crack on the main ramp - how big a deal is this (apparently it doesn't affect gameplay)? Looking around online, it looks like a part that is hard to replace.

Depends on where the crack is. They are pretty close to impossible to replace. I’d go into it assuming you won’t find an uncracked one. There’s a hope that Freeplay40 will start making them when he finishes his bigger heating setup but that’s just a hope.

Quoted from jugood20:
I understand that this needs to be shipped through a forwarding service since pinball.center does not ship to the U.S.- do you mind if I ask How much was shipping cost ?

I just did this myself. Ordered the JP trex decal and a plastic from another machine that only they had. Shipping cost about 15 euros (I'm rounding) combined between mailboxde and Pinballcenter.

Quoted from jugood20:
Not bad! Did you receive the decals yet? If so, how is the quality ? Thanks!

Not sure of long term hold up but they look good. Not the exact same as originals. A little darker.

image (resized).jpg

Quoted from jugood20:
Anyone know where I can find an NOS or original used JP translite?
Also, has anyone bought a repro translite off of EBay, seller name “classicarcades”? If so, how is the quality ?

Never a translite but I've ordered repro plastics from him for different machines. They were always decent. Shapes were perfect, and quality was good, but the colors were never exact to the original. Always a smidge off. But that might just be the nature of repro plastics. Never really bothered me on the plastics though.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:
I'm looking at my first "Project Pin"... a Jurassic Park. I have not pulled the trigger yet, but have seen some pictures and under all the filth the machine seems to be in good shape cosmetically. It blows fuses when the switches are plugged in (I could probably figure that out), is filthy, but looks like it would clean up nice. The only thing that is scaring me is the guy says that at start up (with the switches unplugged so it can be tested) the TREX only moves left and right... not up and down. I fully understand that the TREX is "unobtanium" right now. For those of you with a physical machine, does the same motor run the left to right and up and down action on that machine or is it a separate motor? I'm trying to figure out if it is potentially a gearbox issue, bent TREX issue, or motor issue. Sorry, no pictures at this time. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated...

Two different motors. The up/down one is easier to get in and out too. And both are very easy to come by.

Quoted from Neal_W:
DE pins are notorious for speaker hum noise in a quiet environment from the insert lamp and DMD interference. The Pinsound would resolve that.

Honestly this is why I’ve thought about getting one even though I’d keep stock sounds. Get rid of the hum for good.

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Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago

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