I am not sure, but for the cheap price I figured what the heck. I figured I could do a review video in about 10 years lol.
I am debating the same thing on my cliffy's as I haven't installed them yet...but gives it a nice clean look at the very least.

Edit: I just went to play a few rounds and I realized I forgot to mention just having a brightness control on the dmd helps. Really cuts down on the glass glare if you're playing in a darker room like mine.

I was wondering about that, these led's are how I got the machine and I hadn't looked into it yet. I think they are too dim as is...the room lights have to be off to really see it. I'm glad you said something...I just ordered a few led's from pinballife yesterday and totally forgot about looking at the backbox so I just called so I can change my order. They don't have led blinkers but for $2.50 for a box of 10 ill try incandescent blinkers on the bottom row lol

I had done that order cause I was showing the video to Josh from loopcombo and I didn't realize my blue bunker light was "factory correct" and he recommended putting the same yellow as control room or white in all 3 like his. So you know...gotta play with options to make the shipping worth it lol.

Yeah, with his issue I was definitely thinking power from the video, but more like an amp couldn't handle it etc. When games don't get their proper voltages at the proper places they throw tantrums. It could be a bad cap, faulty board, or just a stupid "loose but looks good to the eye connection". Especially with stranded wire can't hold the proper voltage and creates extra resistance if only partially connected. The plug can look/feel plugged in, but sometimes the wires get loose in the plug and need to be repunched down. If the simple reseat doesn't do it...also try a proper punch down tool or small flat blade screwdriver of not available to make sure the actual wires are seated in the plugs. Be very careful, and of course do all of this with the machine off.

I got mine from pinsider kruzman ...great guy to deal with. I think he has a couple NOS left.

I totally didn't see this post when I chimed in lol
Thanks for the help

I have to wait till mine break. Or atleast someone local who wants me to come film lol.
So anyone near 22407 in VA who wants to be a Youtube star while they work on their machine....let met know! lol

I am not sure about actual tournaments, although I'd love to see one. The game has tournament settings (Adjustment 41) None/Pinball Expo/IFPA-PAPA/Home. I don't see anything for the tri-ball enabling by ball 3 with official code. I think if you don't get it, you just really didn't hit any of the dino targets and got no sympathy from the game lol. But the 6.0 unofficial code addresses this and makes it harder to get triball.

lol, now you make me want to hook my machine up to my home theater...
That means I would need all three (2.1) channels cause I'm greedy.

My two favorites side by side! TAFs are just so expensive

Control room scoop diode is a service bulletin, so it should be on the switch itself unless someone moved it to a remote location.
I just uploaded a couple more service bulletins to my facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/JurassicParkPinballOwners/

It's service bulletin #43. (Thanks Ingo for uploading)

I always assumed they came with one, but never asked. My topper is sitting in a box because I need to extend my ceiling before I can put it on lol. I have determined the best compromise would be to cut the legs down and add a recess to the ceiling. There is no reason to use logic and just move the machine lol

I got mine from @kruzman, I think he has some NOS ones left. Shoot him a PM

OK, I am trusting you on this one. Just ordered a set.

I only have 1 broken plastic (above bunker from installing my scoop mod ), but was debating on the orange slingshots just last night on ebay lol.

I will do a review video when they come in. I'll try and do some side by sides, as best I can, but I don't want to go taking my machine apart anymore than I have to

Mine came today!
You are right in line with what I wanted to say but you had a little more detail about the lines and such so I second yours!
Long story short...Would they pass as 100% NOS? No. But they are really good, and actually a little thicker than expected.
If you've got cracks, you won't be dissapointed!

I compared a few pieces side by side and noticed like the the repros by the flippers, and the shooter lane are a tad smaller sitting right on top of original, so you would probably want to replace "mirrored" or similar ones in pairs to not notice. This might also be recommended with the darker blue.

The most important thing is that atleast the ones I spot checked quick, was that the screw holes actually lined up with the screws!

If I were to refer to them as these being scanned, there are subtle differences where centering is different than NOS, but really you have to take them for what they are....they are not direct "rip-off" copies reprinted from a scanner. These are from an actual artist, recreating them in painstaking detail, even down to the handwritten # codes that were on the originals. Just wanted to make sure that was known cause alot of people just looking for plastics would probably assume scanned.

I did not get into actual installation, and didn't even realize some like the gate are riveted, so I didn't bother trying light behind it. I am debating on keeping them as insurance vs selling them, so I also did not take the protective coating off of them either.

As discussed above, the raptor pit one does have the opening a little different to make installation easier than stock with the connection.

I did record as unboxing to get a start to a video, so hope to get one up soon.

Ok, got a the quick review vid of the plastics done. Spot checked a few side by side:

Added over 7 years ago: Just noticed I am missing the green DE keychain in my set

No, not till I'm a big enough YouTuber to pay for my plastics. The plastic I broke was from making another video so I don't wanna take mine apart till I have to. The original intent was to add HD photos of each one, but their site already has that, and I can't really show light behind them without installing it, as comment23 beat me to the desk lamp mod and already put up some photos.

Welcome to the club!

I guess I kind of assumed this is how it worked....Wonder if this is still possible or if they've ran what they're going to run and done.

Actually, I was hoping KevinCPR would comment either here or on his thread (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dataeast-jurassic-park-repro-plastics-done), but I guess no one has commented concerns there yet.
I went ahead and just sent an email now.

And seeing this from a possible competitor being objective, is a perfect reason I want to stay objective myself and not go saying they suck etc. I am not an artist, designer, or print setter so I don't see the many hours behind the scenes it takes to pull them off. If you're going to do an entire shop job, my opinion is they'll be fine/not noticed, but I am more leary of any mixing with stock side by side after seeing more comments.

Technically my warranty card does...does that help?

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Edited as a got a pretty quick response this time...maybe something happened to the email

But to post a little more detail in the response about the process and official response: (not the entire email)
"The entire set is meant to be replaced, with the originals going away and fogotten forever. Mix-n-match never usually happens with repro sets and originals together. That was never their point, I guess."

"The blue is matched to an NOS set, where Stu chose the Pantone match of every color on the NOS set, as seen in his studio under 4000 lumen 5500K light, alongside an official Pantone swatch book. Then those inks were mixed to the exact Pantone spot colors, and printed as seen. Gamma is also considered in the mix, to counter "washout" when illuminated. The final intended tone is that blue when BACKLIT. Which adds 20-30% Gamma into the color (bringing it up to tone)."

"We just ran 200 sets, and half are sold now. Only 2 people have spoken up thus far, and written in questions about the blue so far (out of 100 people). I can't change the 200 sets - and we aren't re-running We just made 200 sets "

"We'd hope if folks have grievances with not liking the blue - they'd clearly see it in the very detailed pictures, and not buy."

"I always simply say it - install and enjoy... forget the originals. Put them away."

"If that's no good, we always accept a full return for refund. Nobody is stuck with any CPR product they are not happy with."

I guess I can't disagree with this as we did question the blue before ordering, and still ordered. Looking back at his post, they look even bluer in the photo. I am curious what their intended backlight was, as incandescent vs led vs superbright led etc may come into play as well as would with regular plastics. I emailed again to ask about recommended backlighting and got his auto response that Kevin will be out till the 13th and not responding to email

So the bottom line is if you want a set, they are half sold out, and will not be making another run. If you have a set and are not happy, they will accept a return.

I updated my post #3194 before I saw these...official response is they will not be doing a correction or re-run.

I think they look ok in the pic, but can't see it all...shouldn't get hot with led. Make sure contacts have a good connection, i.e no corrosion or loose wire. I would also make sure the wires on the led and socket are adjusted to properly touch the contacts as less metal = increased resistance. If the socket isn't holding the bulbs tight, it could be making less contact. Also maybe test the leds somewhere else or replace...they could be having an issue themselves.

Original flyer with clear pop bumpers, ceramic captive ball, and orange apron decals?

lol, didn't even notice that...maybe this is starting to explain the reason for the alternate orange pop bumpers.

Here's a video I made for JP

I can burn roms.

Lol I was wondering if you meant the computer room, as I figured no way to hit the powershed angle on launch. It's actually sort of common for the T-gate to be installed backwards accidentally, which leads to removal when they can't figure it out. I just figured it would hit that and drop down, but sounds like it sets up a cool trick shot.

kruzman may have nos left. Rock custom pinball has them in his shop...not sure if his are nos or repro.. but should be showing in the suggested items at the bottom of the screen from his pinside shop. Trying out pinside on my phone right now and can't see the item lol

lol yep. I tried to talk myself out of it. I lost yet I won at the same time. In the middle of typing this post and just got the shipping confirmation. I guess I see doing some videos in the near future.

The color code isn't scheduled to release until Aug 4th. Apparently they get the units out quick though, ordered yesterday and my display is supposed to be here tomorrow.

I once felt the same way, but was comparing to the like 4 color palate swap ones. And then I thought back to playing a colored Addams on my trip to the Chicago Beercade a few years ago and felt like it was the coolest thing as I had never seen it before. Integrated mods like this are also easier to hide from non gaming significant others than say the Ms PacMan I decided to show up with after work a few weeks ago lol. And remember you're close enough to me to come check it out in person if you need a demo.

No smoke! No Fire!

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lol, that was probably my best game ever
I wanna try to beat it again before installing 6.0

I don't see an official announcement yet....But you may want to check out ColorDMD's download section...
something just popped up in there!

Too bad I'm stuck at work right now

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Yeah, see what is going on in your switch test...is anything activated without being hit? One thing triggering multiple switches? This is probably related to you getting the switch #28 error we talked about before you upgraded. Chad fixed that glitch in 6.0 so you won't get the actual "Dino Dino Dino" mode, but it sounds like you are incorrectly triggering at least the power shed with your flipper button. (or possibly something on the verge of triggering and the vibration of the coil firing is enough to trigger something else)

Yes, I have 6 balls installed and no switch errors. 1,2, or 3 ball play doesn't do it...everything else works fine its just a hiccup at the end of that 1 mode. I haven't had to spell CHAOS to start it...just shoot both jackpots, then spell chaos to light the t-rex 50M shot.

Welcome!

Lol, thanks for the fresh set of eyes. I've actually watched that video in the past, but forgot it was about multi-ball and not just the 6 trough switches.

I'll give it a look next time I get a chance to crack it open.

Just happened to have leftover footage from my last video...actually used the power on click / T-rex diagnostics to sync the camera angles. Sitting here burning some roms so I had time to kill and render out a section for you

lol, no. But it makes me wonder if it's a good strategy. I really only get to system failure by using the buy in feature or turning off the playfield glass.

There is no doubt Chad's attractions will drive kids out of their minds.

6.0 is the greatest thing since socketed roms!

I'd be interested in one. Preferably one that could mount to an existing screw.

Sweet! Ordered, but I won't get to see it till back from the honeymoon in 2 weeks lol

Hey I just got back from my honeymoon and seeing what I missed in the group.
My new dock sign was waiting in the mail hold so hoping to check that out tomorrow!

I don't have the LCD to compare but here are 2 videos with gameplay from the LED I installed in mine:

I wish they would make a plug and play LCD that size though, as at first I thought I didn't care about the "cartooney" graphics options, but recently played a Twilight Zone with LCD and really actually liked that setting.

I've never noticed ghosting on the LED display, and even though brighter than LCD, playfield glare isn't bad on mine and it's in a dark corner which are 2 other things I've heard asked about it.

Jenniebear seconding the old roms suggestion from ChadH ...

specifically v5.10 CPU fixes a display blankout issue...see svc bulletin 47 if this sounds like your issue. However, I thought it was just after game over and not related to the start button and might be a coincidence. (you might have to join the group to see the file, but it's a pdf in my facebook JP owner's club)
https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/sb47.pdf?token=AWxGsjzv1hiWyCHE8wi06yUiKt_FJrgCb5Pwx5L9xCceRoWCiMqK9sjBTlK7JcyrZpbF9it8XflkmR5ZkxVRbIm31BtmSypx2l7s1oQtSJrOetK3t--fitWLJCcOtyM5wrRoa8tifv9Sg7M-UlHfyOKo

5.13 is the latest official DE code

ChadH 6.0 version is "built off" 5.13 so it also shouldn't have the display issue if it's the same thing + all the fun tweaks and changes

If you need roms I can help with burning them for you.

Mine too is just the pilot hole

It's the most wonderful mod of the year!

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I can do custom burns as well. PM me.

-edit oh oops, you already did lol

Make sure you install it properly...it can be a little tricky!

Welcome to the newbies!

Sigh... Am I the only one with black dino-less speaker grills? lol

The T-rex motor pulsing was fixed (changed) back in 5.01, not even sure if it's noticeable to the player unless they already have motors that were on the edge of failing. I'm thinking it's a physical issue of some sort....the T-Rex assembly can be very finicky. From page 25 of the manual..I would check the behaviour of your TOP switch and make sure it's working/being triggered correctly...

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I am having this issue and usually goes out the right outlane...VERY ANNOYING! I've thought about getting the rubbers that just barely fit around the wireform. Not sure what size those are called. But one day I'll get around to trying it. Would this be size 0?

Thanks for that...we have plenty of velcro for cable management at work and never throught to try that!

Sad to see you go!

Also check the CPU/Display version...if it's really old there could be more wear on the motor as the code was updated to address burning out the gears / stressing the motor.
<v5.0 is pretty rare out in the wild, but it's possible, especially on reimports.

I can help with updated roms if you can't burn your own.

Running 6.0 w/ ColorDMD:

So easy to install:

Was always wondering what that setting actually controlled!

If only we knew one of these groups
https://www.facebook.com/groups/JurassicParkPinballOwners

It's so cool to come across stories like these...even if it's just a little teaser.

Yes, it was tested with color DMD.
I can help if you can't burn your own roms.

Here is a video I did running 6.0.

Lol, that options font looks familiar

Generally sound roms aren't upgraded for most games and 1.0 is all you need, so I guess I listed it that way out of habit. I got excited thinking it was an undumped version for a second.

The actual latest versions are:
U7 v4.29
U17 v4.23
U21 v4.23

Hit refresh on that page...and you are now upgraded.

The important question is....what version is your CPU/Display?

Now I'm curious what changed. My board was handy since I went Pinsound, which is probably the version you want lol....Out of curiosity I just checked and I was running 4.23 for all 3 chips before I pulled the board so maybe I can add that one if anyone wants to downgrade lol.

Ah ok so you are running the latest official DE code already. You just need to experience ChadH 6.0
You only need the CPU and Display chip to upgrade.

Where can I get one of the goats? I forgot about that guy lol

Awesome! I gave your channel a shout out on Facebook. Just wish you had started before you did JP lol

Service Bulletin 43 discusses this fix...but yes I feel I've seen/heard something about moving the diode off that assembly. Maybe it was the fix for the later serial numbers?

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Yes, I have been on the quest for "legit official" dino speaker grills for 2 years now. I do not know if mine came from the factory like this, but just assumed it was from some previous repair or had something to do with mine being a reimport from Germany. Never really asked around as I felt my machine was the only one I'd seen in pictures or vids with plain black.

I too have been debating the sticker route or finding a mod like the ones pictured earlier, but the purist in me never reached out to the guy to ask if he could do the JP dinos lol.

My wife has a cricut...had been debating going that route but never actually sat down to go find the image and match the colors lol

I meant for like a stencil...but I bet vinyl would be close after poking all the holes lol
Yeah if I can get it into SVG it's definitely a possibility