(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,272 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by jurassicpark93
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#323 5 years ago
Quoted from smerff:

I recently saw someone post that they had replaced the black wood at the back of the machine with acrylic so I decided to do the same. Looks great. Let me know if you need any tips about doing this as its easy to crack the acrylic.

That looks great, gotta have a go at it! Did you come across any major problems or was it fairly straight forward?

#327 5 years ago
Quoted from smerff:

I had this cut by a company here in NZ and it was $10 for the piece of acrylic and for them to cut it. When drilling use an electric drill with a blunt drill bit going very fast(Drill goes fast but you go slow). Its not the tip thats the problem but the edges of the drill bit, if they bind on the acrylic it will crack. I was told to almost melt your way through. Have the acrylic hard down on some wood to avoid binding on the way out. Make any holes that screws are screwing into the playfield "float" through the acrylic.

Thanks for taking the time to post that, very helpful

#332 5 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

That really does look terrific. Where did you get the image?

As Smerff said its there but you never notice, I had to go and check!!

2 months later
#456 4 years ago

I brought a piece of Perspex from ebay and did this myself with a strip of led's very cool mod, I never noticed that plastic before!

After.JPG
3 weeks later
#486 4 years ago

That looks very nice

7 months later
#1523 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

The CPU tells the video rom what to display but all the video data is stored in the video rom.

That's my new thing I learned today and its only 8AM here

1 month later
#1661 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Thanks for info. I tried to bend the switch, and then activate the Rex. Now that I am looking closer at it, what I see is happening is that the head starts to move up then the jaw chomps. I clearly remember it used to chomp before moving back up. The jaw appears to also be open more than it used to be, and now rests on the lip of the wood outside the saucer, not in the saucer. However, I don't think it is stuck on the wood, as I can see in a video I took that the head actually moves up a bit before the jaw closes. Could this be a mechanical issue? What controls how far the jaw opens? Thanks again for your help - I would like to know what I am looking for before I start to take the head apart.

It will be a break in the wiring loom that goes to the solenoid from under the playfield, this happened to mine, when he bends over the fractured wire gets stretched and separates. Its a bit of a PITA to replace as you have to strip it down but not difficult.

#1663 4 years ago

Its just the wiring assembly that goes to the Trex. From memory if you take the horseshoe plastic from around his neck you can drop the whole assembly through the bottom of the playfield after taking 3 or 4 screws out.

The loom that will have the break is what is left on the assembly when you remove it, you will have to unplug it so you can't get it wrong. Its probably only one wire that is at fault but it is worth replacing them all as they will all have suffered the same strain over the years.

You will have to make your own up as I don't think there is a direct replacement.

I wish I had taken pictures now so I could show you better!

#1667 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

I now realize the clue was in this comment from winteriscoming. When the down switch gets activated, that is when it chomps. The problem is that this switch was not being activated early enough. Likely due to losing sensitivity in the switch. I tried bending the arm up, but then it was closing too early (both the switch and the jaw). I tried putting a rubber on the metal piece that activates the switch to make it larger and activate the switch earlier, and now it works part of the time. No way around it, just have to replace the switch, which means several days wait. Hopefully this will clear up the problem.

Cool, I hope that fixes it, why is it never that simple for me!!!

9 months later
#2778 3 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Check out my new raptor crate mod.

Awesome, want!

2 weeks later
#2831 3 years ago

I'm hoping a fellow pinsound owner can help,

I've just put a pinsound board in my JP and just cannot get it to work. I have one in my GnR and SW so am not new to them but just can't understand why the files won't convert with JP

I have the Jurassic park file and put that on a formatted (tried Fat32 and NFTS) memory stick (tried 3 different sticks including 2 new ones) and installed it in the game but no mater what I try it just says "there are on sound files on the usb drive" or something like that

Whatever combination I try it doesn't seem to like it.

Any help gratefully received

1 month later
#2926 3 years ago

Does the sub have to be an active or passive one? I have no idea what either of these phrases mean!

#2929 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Active = powered. You plug the speaker into a wall outlet and it thumps much louder.
Passive = speaker wire only. The subwoofer in the original game is passive.

Thank you

2 months later
#3167 2 years ago

I agree, I have SW, LAH, JP, G&R and Tommy, all great games that will never leave. I have to say though that Pinsound has transformed them.

9 months later
#4050 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Here's my video on flame polishing (using the Jurassic Park ramp):

Thank you have you ever tried it with coloured ramps like G&R etc?

8 months later
#4554 1 year ago

Dude, that looks awesome

3 months later
#4797 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

My goal was to create an opto board

Awesome dude

11 months later
#7147 56 days ago
Quoted from jugood20:

Has anyone else experienced this issue before? If so, how have you resolved it?

In both Data East and B/W games i have taken the trough out/apart and filed the rails until the divots are gone. The problem can be worse if you have a game using magnets and the balls become magnetised.

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