(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,263 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 37 minutes ago by silen7ce
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,702 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191006_153405 (resized).jpg
94DBEB2A-7C14-4995-87FF-22F578D6980F (resized).jpeg
04DC7774-5164-4AE2-BA4E-AF89D57D6AB6 (resized).jpeg
F97CF5CA-6AE3-47DF-8445-434C0C2780C7 (resized).jpeg
7B6FC943-EE3E-4675-AA9E-C15AFD9A5722 (resized).jpeg
jhgfdfghjk (resized).jpg
365016a01354d2298def4c158decb44b28ba348e.jpeg (resized).jpg
IMG_4088 (resized).JPG
IMG_20200110_180039 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200110_175015 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20200109-025458_Chrome (resized).jpg
JP (resized).jpg
JP (resized).png
20200107_202834 (resized).jpg
20200107_202821 (resized).jpg
7812FF34-932D-4672-8D88-546F9FA83206 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider markp99.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1185 4 years ago

EPROM Label:

I was poking around my JP this weekend to replace the PS board and address audio hum issues. When I removed the DMD front panel assy, I noticed a paper label fluttering about. Appears to have fallen off the dispay eprom - the window is currently exposed.

Is it mandatory to cover this window, or OK to leave as is? Something better than black electrical tape (sticky). Maybe an HVAC type foil tape?

Thanks

#1187 4 years ago

Thank w.i.c.

Thinking a paper label is better than FOIL material - imagine the implications if that fell off and landed on some circuitry.

#1194 4 years ago

I bought a rubber ring kit for JP from Pinball Wizard (White with Red flipper sleeves).

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=643

The kit was not a great match for my JP machine.

1. Extra rubbers with no home in the machine
2. Many missing rubbers, and sleeves
3. Poor fit on a couple rings
4. Rubber post sleeves too short by 3/16

I only discovered the mismatches only AFTER I had a good amount of playfield plastics & ramps removed. Ugh!

I used what I could, and returned the worn/dirty/crappy black rubbers to their original locations.

I had thought to get just the pieces I needed, but thought the kit would save me some time. Was only $13, so no biggie, just a pain in the butt to have to re-visit this task again sooner than later. I was able to give the playfield a good rub-down with Novus 2, then 1 - getting into the areas I can't normally easily reach. Also cleaned the subway ramps (really dirty). So, some value doing this tonite.

#1201 4 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I have Titans on mine orange rings with the orange slings, I could never go back to black.
Not a great pic as they look red and not the vibrant orange they actually are, but you get the idea.

Those Titans sure look great! How far did you go? 100%, including post sleeves and flippers?

I'm curious...

#1218 4 years ago

Quick question, probably trivial, but thought to ask vs blindly tinkering:

I replaced the tired old black rubbers on the two slingshots (they actually stiffly kept their shape upon removal ). I put fresh white silicone rubbers in their place. Frequently, when the slingshots kick a ball, they continue to KICK over and over all on their own. I am guessing the new flexible rubbers are recoiling back into the leaf switches causing the coil to fire.

I resume the adjustment is to back the leaf switches away from the rubbers a bit. Is this adjustment made above the playfield by deforming the leaves, or below adjusting the whole assy?

Just curious, want to do this right.

Thanks!

#1220 4 years ago

Thanks! Should the front leaf be in contact with the rubber, or should there be a gap here too?

#1221 4 years ago

OK, slingshots working perfectly. :up:

Next up - the three pop bumpers on my JP are totally wimpy. They do function when manually pressed, but rarely seem to trigger when hit by the ball.

Are there adjustments to be made to these to bumpers to give them a little more life?

Thanks!

#1232 4 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

So anyway, adjust the leaf switches, but if / when it doesn't seem like it's working, find some B/W spoons and toss them on there. I bought 20 of them at Gene's when he was selling all his stuff for like $2 total, and it is BY FAR the best mod that I've done on all my DE titles.

I'll get the B/W spoons on order. In the meantime, I did tweak the leaf springs ever so slightly. The pops came to life immediately. There is now great action when the ball gets into the pops triangle. What a difference. I'm very happy with this adjustment, If the new spoons add to this, then it will all be gravy.

Thanks for the guidance!

#1259 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

You've updated your game with the new 6.00 code and you are loving it?... then go update your rating!
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/jurassic-park/ratings

Done. Popped-in the update just yesterday. Thanks Chad!

#1260 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Here is a video of GoodToBeDad's ramp Gate mod... but being controlled by a PIG 2.
Why control it with a PIG 2??? I mentioned this in another thread but I'll paste it here:
The problem with the lamps on the JP gate are that they are off all the time. The only time they ever come on is to flash with Bone Busting mode and with Victory mode. Other than that, they are off. Even in attract mode, they stay off.
Here's where the PIG 2 comes in. The PIG 2 is highly customizable. One of the functions it can do is "invert" an output. This means that when something is on, it is inverted to be off... and when something is off, it is inverted to be on.
This is PERFECT for the JP gate lamps. Now, instead of the lamps always being off, they are on... and when the Bone Busting or Victory mode are played, they flash off and on (instead of on and off, but same result).
And this is just using one of the INs and one of the OUTs of the PIG 2. There are three more INs and three more OUTs plus two servo controllers (perfect for controlling a movable gate door?) for other mods.
» YouTube video

Chad, I love this gate mod. Any clue what became of PIG 2? As far as I can tell it is discontinued. Any legitimate replacement? Old stock??

Thanks!

#1269 4 years ago
Quoted from dkpinball:

I'll probably be putting together another run of the PIG 2 during the dark days of winter coming ahead.

Thanks dk, I'll definitely be watching out for that. Love the flexibility that module provides!

Winter is coming!

#1298 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

I also need to address some flasher issues before I start building the mod. I notice the flasher behind the mosquito and the two on top of the cabinet don't work bulbs are fine. Or, do they not work in flasher test?

I just checked. The mosquito and cabinet top flashers do fire during flasher tests. On mine, one of the 3 non-flasher lamps on top stays ON. Need to fix that.

#1304 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I have some that stay on too....not sure how many. Ill look if i get it setup this weekend.

Hah, just checked again. 2 of the three lamps are bad. Looks like all THREE lamps should stay ON.

Glad I popped into this thread

#1305 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Interesting...ill consider it.

I removed the reflector from my JP this week. No topper, nor room for one in my low-ceiling finished basement. My reflector was not rusted at all... I wanted to see the lamps and flashers. I'm planning to replace the top lamps with Yellow and Orange LEDs. ...or color changing LEDs.

#1313 4 years ago

This is how it was oriented on my JP before I removed this week. Propped it up there for the photo.

reflector_1.png

#1316 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know where to get the white bulb covers that are on top of the backbox?

This looks like it, but not sure if exactly the same...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8662-13

#1317 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Need some help, cleaning up a JP and like most games I found all kinds of parts in the cabinet. Only two parts I really need someone to advise if there is a place for them and then there is the gate that diverts the ball when coming down the lucid ramp along the left side.

1. That long post is attached with a screw and flat washer from the underside of the playfield. There is another screw and star washer on top attaching the ramp, as well as that horizontal metal member - per this photo.

post.png

2. There is a ~7/16 grey plastic spacer where the subway attaches via the ~3" screw to the base of TRex. I've not bumped into another spacer on the underside.

3. As you note, the only topside grey plastic spacers are the 1-1/4" ones supporting the plastics around TRex/Egg/Ratptor. There are ~4 of them around there as far as I can tell.

Hope that helps.

#1322 4 years ago

Yep, both unused in my fully functional JP. I have another unused 2-pin connector in the cabinet laying near the speaker.

#1327 4 years ago

There is no metal bracket on my subway. My JP will very rarely miss a VUK return on the right hand side, but will follow immediately with a good shot. Probably just poor alignment of the ball on the plunger.

This evening I did just re-install the stock playfield support bracket that I found in the coinbox when I got this machine. The screws were ripped from the plywood. Looking at your photo, the BLUE circle is were mine was ripped from the plywood. The RED circle is where I relocated the bracket, just to the left of the lamp socket.

holes.png

When I compare to the position of the right-side bracket, this seems to be a more symmetrical location, more closely matching its vertical position. I'm happy with this position. There is ample room in this new location for a four screw bracket.

One point to note - in this location there is potential for interference with assemblies inside the cabinet, just above the tilt bob. My first attempt, slightly left of this current location would have landed on that stuff. Glad I did not get past the first pilot hole before test fitting. In its current location , I miss that stuff by a good ~1/2 inch.

I'm not sure about a Mantis style bracket. Not sure where the other end might land.

#1346 4 years ago

Silly question, I think:

Since I installed Chad's v6.0 ROM, I have not actually reached CHAOS mode a single time. To confirm its working properly, I tried walking thru the game manually with the glass removed. I cannot recall the sequence that enables CHAOS mode.

It's triggered by a JACKPOT, right? But when??

Thanks

#1356 4 years ago

Another quick question:

I've noticed the top flipper to lag behind the right flipper when using a kind of a half-press vs quick full-press. I tweaked the leaf spring ever so slightly but can only ever seem to accomplish either a flipper-up contact or the lag returns. I think I may have snagged a sleeve on the assy while cleaning, knocking it out out alignment.

I presume I just keep on tweaking until I get it, correct?

Also, I noticed right flipper switch stack feels loose. I tried to tighten the two screws but was meet with no resistance. Looks like the hole is stripped. Do you suggest a longer screw?, larger dia screw?, fill the hole?, something else??

Thanks

#1358 4 years ago

Good point on the lag being intentional, but was not like that previously so I thought I had messed it up. The top flipper can get in the way of the Boat Dock shot, though a quick release is really what's needed there, not a half-press (?)

I've found myself missing the top-flipper T-Rex shot due to the lag. I'll tweak and see how it works.

#1360 4 years ago

Excellent info! Thanks.

#1397 4 years ago

That switch diode seems to be a common issue - must see a lot of shock with the ball hitting that scoop so often. Mine was broken when I got this machine (actually was ~attached with come sort of conductive epoxy or something - odd). Last week, I had to re-repair the broken solder joint at this same location - my old solder repair from 2000 had failed.

Previously, I had just tacked the loose diode end onto the solder connection. This last time, I removed all the solder from that switch lead and passed the diode end thru the hole before soldering back on. Hopefully the last time I visit that connection.

#1398 4 years ago

Crash, this uses just 5V/12V vs high voltage like the DMD, right? I was thinking of going this route when the HV leg of my power supply went bad. I chose the more direct route of replacing the supply for ~$100. DMD was fine.

I really like the color pallet you picked. Looks great!

#1407 4 years ago

Can I ask a favor, please?

My JP is blowing F1 on the PPB at start-up.

PPB J5 Connector:

F1, Pins 4 & 9 < Playfield (blown fuse)
F2, Pins 3 & 7 < Backbox Door
F3, Pins 2 & 6 < Playfield & Coin Door
F4, Pins 1 & 5 < Backbox Door
Pin 8 - no connection/key

With the J5 connector pulled, I am reading continuity between what should be unrelated downstream legs. Example: Between Pins 3 & 4, and others. Am I wrong to expect these fuse legs NOT to share continuity (when not connected to the PPB)?

Can someone pull J5 on the PPB and test for continuity between Pins 3 & 4?

Thanks!

#1409 4 years ago

Thanks stangbat. So, continuity is via the transformer AC output even with connector J5 removed from PPB?

Yep, the white/violet wire on the playfield string.

#1410 4 years ago

The GI issue is sorted out. There was a broken connection and short on the Wht/Vio wire to a pair of lamps under the subway. I re-soldered the wire to the correct lamp pad and fired it up. I had no 5A fuses left, so I used a 3A; did not blow. Nice!

The other half of this string, from the power supply board (CN8, Pin 9, purple wire) would account for the continuity across the GI branches (presuming).

Learning more and more each time I get my hands dirty (really dirty) on this machine!

Thanks for the assistance.

#1412 4 years ago

My Bunker & Control Room switches BOTH have a diode across the leads.

I have repaired the Control Room diode 2-3 times over the years (broken solder joint). When the diode is not properly attached, Control Room does not properly acknowledge the ball. Last repair I passed the diode wire thru the hole in the switch's lead, then soldered. Hopefully that's the last repair on that one.

#1414 4 years ago

Looks to be slightly different hook-up between us on the Control Room switch; just a single Wht/Grn wire here. Interesting.

11-11-2015 4-28-47 PM.png

#1417 4 years ago

Where do your "extra" wires originate from? My single wire comes from this nearby connector:

11-11-2015 4-56-07 PM.png

#1419 4 years ago

Here's a guess:

That diode connection sees a lot of shock (note my 3 repairs on this joint since 2000). Maybe someone just hung the diode remotely across the 2 extra wires on the outside legs of the switch as a form of shock relief.

Dunno?

#1424 4 years ago

That svc bulletin explains the globs of silicone I found on both diodes.

#1431 4 years ago

Success getting my top-right flipper working. I replaced the TIP36C, 1N4004 & 47Ohm resistor on the F3 leg of the flipper board.

There had been some previous repairs on this section, with obvious large & nasty solder globs. I sucked away the old solder and noticed 2 of the 3 legs of the TIP36C landing had no hint of a solder pad remaining. I decided to bend the legs of the TIP36C flat to the board and soldered them to the traces. No at all pretty, but functional.

Happy this repair did the trick for me.

#1432 4 years ago

New question for JP owners. As I was making the above repair I found a note written on a piece of masking tape on a pair of clipped wires tucked under the harness in the lower left front of the cabinet. The note said, "To knocker coil striped side".

Is there supposed to be a knocker in this game? I found a reference on pg 41 of the manual, but I am not sure where this would have been attached.

Any pointers? Worth adding? I've been clueless on this feature since getting this game in 2000 (though mostly in storage since 2005), and never missed it.

#1435 4 years ago

Where in the bottom would have this been located?

#1437 4 years ago

OK, I see it. The metal strike plate is still there - I had wondered what that plate was for... I may add it back.

#1451 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Restoration of my project pickup continues. Does anyone know where the disconnected purple wire goes? It looks like it was spliced with the white/green strip wire. I am thinking it connects straight behind it on the switch with the green wire(on the right side of it). Can someone post a picture of this area for me or confirm?
Thanks
WP_20151119_005.jpg

jjoravec, I cannot quite see which wire is the one you're looking at. Can you add an arrow or circle to help ID? I'd be happy to take a quick pick - I'm at home right now.

#1452 4 years ago

dup, argh!

#1453 4 years ago

No purple wires in that vicinity. I do see a Pur/Yel wire connecting to the coil, but I see that on your photo as well.

Looks like the disconnected Pur wire is taped to a Wht/Grn wire. On my machine that Wht/Grn wire connects to the the "A" scoop switch/diode. It was noted recently in this thread that some machines have removed the diode from the switch and relocated to a remote location. Maybe this is an attempt to replicate this design change.

11-20-2015 9-09-29 AM.png

Do you see a diode across the leads on the "A" scoop switch? If not, do you see a diode attached elsewhere on the underside of the playfield? This purple wire may be the "return" and needs to be reconnected to the "A" scoop switch to complete the diode connection.

#1455 4 years ago

Your new photo makes it pretty clear there is no diode across the two leads of that switch. This photo shows the diode on my machine, ring oriented to the right. You will also note the Wht/Grn wire attached to the left lead - I don't see that one on your photo.

11-20-2015 9-44-00 AM.png

I am guessing your machine has had its diode relocated. Can you trace that purple wire back to see if there is a diode attached, there should be a second wire at that location (to complete the loop)? You would need to attach TWO wires to that switch to connect a remote diode.

Looking at Renouart's photo in this thread, you can see his machine has the Wht/Grn wire attached to the left lead, as well as a Wht/Grn pair across the left and right leads to the necessary diode.

473671-i (1).jpg

#1456 4 years ago

Just played a few rounds on JP with the glass off. I noticed an annoying rattle when the shaker motor was rumbling. I located at the point where the wire ramp sits on a supporting metal hex post.

This seems an odd mode of support which I have not seen on a few of other's playfield photos I've looked at. Maybe was present on one photo, but not very clear.

11-20-2015 11-17-56 AM.png

Is this the intended support installation? Maybe I'll add a nylon panhead screw atop there to add some padding and dampen the rattling. Or, I'll deform the ramp ever so slightly to force a more positive contact with the support.

Suggestions?

#1459 4 years ago

Replaced. What an odd thing for someone to add. I guess, use whatever you'v got in a pinch.

#1463 4 years ago

Interesting variations. I think I'll add the post back, but include a tiny adhesive-backed felt button atop (used to pad inside of slamming cabinet doors). The ramp was a bit "springy" without support.

Gord, I'm curious the purpose of the white rubber on the "Shoot TRex When Lit" feature.

#1465 4 years ago

When I removed the support, the wire ramp could sag just a bit under load (i.e., my fingers), tilting the left plastic ramp with it. Not sure a ball gliding over the top would be too terrible, but possibly over time & vibration it my cause fatigue in the plastics at the fastener points.

#1466 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Wonder if there are any rubber grommets that would be able to fit in there. That'd stop that rattle.

Rubber may be overkill here:

11-20-2015 3-50-00 PM.png

Back to the felt pad:

11-20-2015_3-46-44_PM.png

#1467 4 years ago

Small request: Can someone take a quick photo of the wiring on the in-cabinet knocker coil?

I have a replacement on the way from pinball life (~$20) and want to wire it up properly. I recently discovered JP has a knocker and mine is missing. D'oh!

#1469 4 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

The hex post is stock. It has nothing to do with ramp support, and everything to do with not being able to wedge a ball under the ramp on Route.

OK. That makes sense. So, the interference with the ramp is accidental.

#1474 4 years ago

Diode is 1N4004, ring oriented to the right. But you can use 1N4004 (higher rating):

1N4001 50V
1N4004 400V

$0.19 at marcos, $6.99 shipping

Radio Shack may have this common item too...

#1477 4 years ago

Can you confirm continuity to ground at the connector at the PPB end of the raptor coil's return wire?

#1479 4 years ago

Not all are closed. 2 Radio Shack stores in my city still open for business. Now mostly a mobile phone reseller, but they still carry piece part electronics goods.

Apparently >1,000 stores still operating:
http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/2015/04/01/radio-shack-bankruptcy-stores/70775200/

#1482 4 years ago

Looking at the schematic:

Raptor Coil:

- Vio/Yel = 50V, PPB J7, Pin 3
- Brn/Blk = Return, PPB J8, Pin 4
- 1N4001 across the leads

1. You noted if you bring return to ground, coil fires. Removing J8 and connecting Pin 4 in the connector to ground should produce the same result. If YES, then you have ruled out a break in the return wire.

2. Next, check the diode that sits across the coil's leads. Inspect the solder connection - if broken or funky, reflow them.

3. Next, with power off and DMM in diode mode, you want to measure voltage drop across the diode's leads (~500mV is correct range), with black lead on the banded end of the diode, red on non-banded end. If short or open, simply replace the diode, keeping the correct orientation.

PPB:

1. Appears you are getting voltage to the coil via J7, Pin 3, though 78V seems high - this should be closer to 50V, per the schematic. I just checked my OEM PPB - I too read 75V on J7, Pins 1, 2, & 3. Let's rule that out.

2. Look at J8 next:

- Try the simplest thing first - reconnect/re-seat J8 and try to fire the raptor coil.

- Next, look for bad/cold solder joints on the backside of the PPB, under J8, specifically on Pins 3 & 4. If you see any oddities here, I would not repair, rather make a call to Rottendog or the distributor where you purchased to get replaced.

- Next, check Diode, D18 - with power off and DMM in diode mode. You want to measure voltage drop across the leads (~500mV is correct range), with black lead on the banded end of the diode, red on non-banded end (I read 539mV on D18). This is in circuit, so not perfect. You don't want to see a short or open here.

- Transistor Q4, (TIP36C) - look at the solder connections on this device's 3 leads. If any oddities here, I'd also look to get the board replaced vs repaired. Note: I just replaced the TIP36C and Diode on my flipper board - the second time this has been replaced. I'm not sure how to diagnose transistor issues in-circuit, so looking at surrounding evidence might be the best bet: burnt pins, burnt casing, shorted adjacent diode, open resistor, etc.

MPU:

I'm out on the digital stuff. This is when I'd call a technician.

Hope that helps.

#1484 4 years ago

I'll drop this here for my own reference (Note - this is for a WPC board, but guessing similar for DE):

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm

Transistor Testing procedures using a DMM.

If the driver board is out of the game for some reason (like to fix the burnt GI connector pins), test all the transistors. It only takes a moment, and will ultimately save time. To test a transistor, a digital multi-meter (DMM) is needed, set to the "diode" position. NOTE: testing transistors with a DMM is not 100% fool-proof. A transistor can test as "good" and still be bad (rare, but it does happen!).

Testing Transistors INSTALLED in the WPC driver board.

TIP36c: Put the red lead of the DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the black lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the black lead on the center transistor leg (collector) and the red lead on the metal tab, and a zero reading should be seen. Put the black lead of the DMM on the left/top (base) leg of the transistor. The red lead on the center transistor leg should show .4 to .6 volts. The red lead on the right/bottom leg should be .2 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

Testing Transistors NOT INSTALLED:

Only the TIP36c will test slightly different out of circuit. The other transistors will test the same as described above. All transistors are laying on the workbench with their "face" (side with the markings) up, and metal tab away from you. Orientation is BCE (base collector emitter), from left to right for the TIP transistors. Orientation for the small plastic transistors is EBC (emitter base collector) with the flat side up.

TIP36c: Put the black lead of the DMM on the left (base) leg of the transistor. Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two other legs (center and right legs) of the transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the DMM leads on the metal tab and the center transistor leg (collector), and a zero reading should be seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad.

#1485 4 years ago

Confirmed in JP:

TIP36C tested as described above - in and out of the circuit - about 535-550mV at each reading. Good to know.

#1487 4 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I'll try to keep posting here for anyone with a similar problem.

Yes, please do. It will be interesting to see their suggested approach and your result. Good luck!

#1492 4 years ago

I did a bit of a conversion on my JP last night, adding frosted warm white, non-ghosting LEDs from Comet. I left all other GI lighting and flashers as incandescent.

Replaced:

1. All backbox lamps
2. All insert lamps
3. All 3 scoop lamp pairs - using frosted Yellow & Green LEDs
4. JP gate top pair and T-Rex indicator lamp replaced with bright Red fan LED - very nice!
5. 4 T-Rex progress lamps (near left flipper) - replaced with frosted Red LED - looks awesome!
6. 3 backbox top lamps with RGB color changing LEDs (for now - mostly liking this effect, else I will move to 3 bright red LEDs)

(no more ugly lamp condoms!)

Added:

1. Superbright Red LED under the T-Rex saucer in a new socket, tied into the topside red T-Rex indicator lamp. I LOVE-LOVE this addition. Plainly evident when T-Rex shot is lit.

Pending:

1. Tried frosted warm white LED in the pop bumpers. Do not quite like the color temp, a green-ish tint. Also tried frosted yellow (same as the scoop lights - a bit too orange/dim). I may try clear warm-white, or just go back to incandescent here.

2. I will look to replace the 6 x #906 bulbs under the ramp. These bulbs are tired/dim and should be refreshed.

3. Will experiment with the 20" dim-able LED strip lighting behind the JP Banner to add a little brightness to the dark backside of the playfield, as well as backlight the banner a bit. We'll see if this produces a reasonable result - color temp is warm-white, but feels a bit harsh at full brightness.

Result:

I think the result is just amazing, but not overbearing or blinding at all. The playfield feels fresh and new. The inserts are bright and nicely visible during game play. The remaining incandescent GI lighting balances very nicely keeping with the original brightness and color temp of the game.

- Happy camper!

#1494 4 years ago

General Lighting:

1.png

T-Rex Saucer:

2.png

#1497 4 years ago

I had previously tried to also add LED strips to the "C", "A", "S" scoops beneath the playfield, for an overall "lava" lighting effect beneath. I was not happy with the result so I ripped it out. Seeing the CRAZY brightness of that LED under the saucer (the previous Red LED I used was just plain wimpy), I'm thinking I may be able to revisit with an LED lamp vs an LED strip.

#1501 4 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I need to try a brighter red LED in the T-Rex saucer, with the yellow insert when I used a red LED it just looked this gross orange. Yours looks great, did you change the insert? On the top of mine I put Red, Orange and Yellow across the top in that order with the topper it matches the sunset perfectly.

Yes, exactly. LED needs to be brighter. I kept the yellow saucer, though did contemplate swapping out for clear. The Optix Maximus LED from Comet is so crazy bright, the yellow saucer has zero impact on the result.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax.htm

Agree on the sunset theme atop the backbox. While the color changing effect is nice, it does seem to spend a lot of time in the Blue & Green color bands. If we could tune for just a Yellow to Red transition, I'd jump on that. I think I'll switch back to all Red for the time being - no Yellow #44 LEDs at the moment. I did also try Red LEDs at the outer 2 positions and color changer in the center - was not bad - and did seem to accent the new, brighter insert colors (the playfield blues really pop now).

1 week later
#1525 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

I find it hard to believe no one out there has plastics that they can scan. Pretty please

Perfect timing:

I am about to strip down my JP playfield to give it a good clean & get to a couple hard to reach GI lamps that need replacement. I have a flatbed scanner.

Questions:

1. Is what you are looking for as simple as taking a scanned image of each plastic piece?
2. Are scanned results going to be perfectly scaled by default? Or,
3. Any need for a size reference (i.e., ruler) in the image - In both x & y direction?
4. What file format is preferred?
5. One file per plastic, or ok to combine smaller pieces in one image?

Let me know; I'll see what I can get done. Maybe a couple samples to start?

Thoughts?

#1527 4 years ago

Made a quick scan of the left & right slings, @600dpi, with a scale in the image for reference. Saved as a JPEG.

Observations (upon printing):

1. The size of the printed image does not match the original plastics (image slightly smaller than original)

2. The colors appear to be shifted from the original (more saturation, shifted to red slightly)

I acknowledge this may be 100% related to my color laser printer and not the scanned image itself.

Let me know what you think, or offer any suggestions?

#1532 4 years ago

I've made scans of the following 17 plastics, @600dpi w/transparent ruler included, in JPG format:

1. Sling_Right
2. Sling_Left
3. Outlane_Right
4. Outlane_Left
5. Shooter_Cover
6. Shooter_Exit
7. Rail_Right_Top
8. Rail_Right_1
9. Rail_Right_2
10. Rail_Right_3
11. Rail_Left_Top
12. Rail_Left_1
13. Rail_Left_2
14. Orbit_Right
15. Orbit_Left
16. Pop_Bumper
17. Shoot_T-Rex

The only plastics excluded are the large piece over the Raptor & Egg lanes, and the T-Tex Collar (riveted). I did not want to do any disassembly on the T-Rex mechanism. Plus, the large piece would not fit on my scanner.

PM me if you'd like a link to these files (~2MB apiece). I should note that some of these plastics have become deformed over the years (bent, curved, cracks near screw holes, etc.), so they may not be a perfect match with new pieces. I did not make any attempts at color correction on these files - they came straight off the scanner, as-is.

Hope these are useful,

Mark

#1553 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

As repro plastics won't be done for JP any one have any ideas what (if anything) I can do about this?
jp_plastic.jpg

Just spit balling: Maybe you can find a scan or good quality photo and print onto water slide decal paper. Slide a decal over that spot, aligning the edge details. Maybe would diminish the effect we see in your photo.

You might need to adjust the size a bit & color match.

#1563 4 years ago

Awesome! Glad they had fun.

#1570 4 years ago

I recently added a ~20" LED strip from Comet with the ability to adjust the brightness - Matrix. Was the warm white option, but I decided was still too bright and cool for my tastes, even after dimming. I still have 100% incandescent lamps above the playfield & 100% warm white frosted LEDs beneath - so this was a bit of a visual mismatch for me.

I have a Yellow/Amber LED strip on order from Comet. We'll see how I like that one. I had thought to add Yellow Kapton tape over the WHITE LED strip, but saw the option from Comet.

The LED strip is mounted via velcro to the inside top of the cabinet, just behind and above the "When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth" banner. The white LEDs did illuminate the text as desired, but too cool as I noted.

I connected the LED strip to the Backlight GI via alligator clips for now.

#1576 4 years ago

The amber block on my JP is also "dished". There a little bit of sheen, but not terribly glossy.

As this is intended to be backlit, I'd guess you're probably fine.

Maybe a bit of Novus 2 and some elbow grease will get back some of the sheen.

12-21-2015 7-14-40 PM.png

2 weeks later
#1601 4 years ago
Quoted from Element-X:

Hey guys, I figured out a good solution for my hazy amber block - I buffed it.

20160103_174823_(resized).jpg20151221_185544_(resized).jpg

Nice improvement. What did you use?

1 week later
#1622 4 years ago
Quoted from JeffA:

This is a regular complaint. I know that some folks have mentioned swapping out the spoons with Williams versions. I'd try adjusting the leaf springs first though (power off - lesson learned). And, be sure to clean them. I used a business card to clean the contacts on mine and made a world of difference. After that, I dropped all notions of more drastic rebuild. Got all the liveliness I wanted.

I swapped for the Williams spoons on mine for this very reason, however, the ones I got from Marcos looked nearly identical to the ones I replaced. I think the leaf switch adjustments made more of a difference for me. My bumpers are crazy active now - and I love it - Timmy is safe!

#1629 4 years ago

johnwart will send you both ROM updates with your order. Easy.

...or what they said above

#1641 4 years ago

delt31,

Check the diode solder joint at the Powershed switch - I've repaired mine a few times over the years. This is a common mechanical failure due the beating that area takes.

Some JPs have the diode attached right on the switch legs (like mine), others have a wire lead flying over to a remotely attached diode (probably a better approach).

Edit: Sorry, was the Control Room switch's diode for me - not Powershed. But your issue may be similar.

#1643 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK - mine has it attached to the legs. What do you suggest I do to attempt to repair? I've replaced switches before entirely but not adjusted diode. In my case, switch is registering so that seems fine but maybe to your point, switch could be fine but diode could be the issue?
also - I believe this is the right switch I'm looking at that would make the powershed work right. It's the one beneath the playfield in the clear tunnel that leads to the VUK that spits the ball out. That's correct?

On my JP, with the cracked joint on the Control Room diode, the game does not resister hits to the control room. No other symptoms.

Inspect the joint, wiggle it, look for a loose connection on the switch leg. Touch with a soldering iron to reflow if needed.

I'd check the other CHAOS diode legs just for yucks as long as you're under the playfield.

#1651 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

if someone knows how the power shed at least works (e.g., what is the switch that causes the S to be registered, I can use that info to find out my problem so even that would be helpful

I just ran thru the JP switch diagnostics:

1. Powershed trips switch #60 in the subway << this is the one I think may be the issue
2. TRex gobble trips switch #59, also in the subway

From your description, seems like nothing else in switch matrix column 8 is out (flippers ok, VUK working, etc.) - which is a good thing (I recently knocked out a switch matrix column - everything in that column was non-functional - turned out to be a tiny transistor on the CPU board, easy fix).

I still lean toward the diode on Switch #60 as the probable source - just sounds so familiar to the issues I had on the Control Room diode, even if the switch is otherwise functional.

Do you have any spare Diodes? Might be worth cutting that diode out of the circuit, test, then replace. On a good diode, you should see ~500mv across the leads in diode mode on your DMM, black lead at banded end. If it's good, then you've wasted ~$0.05, if it was bad, then you have your solution.

Hope that helps

#1653 4 years ago

My Diagnostics results match my schematics:

Switch #60 = Powershed (Right Scoop Trough)

Do your schematics match this for the switch matrix (pg 26)? Did you move any wires/connectors below the playfield or in the backbox?

We have certainly seen variations between machines over time; this may be one of them - makes me curious (?)

Maybe other JP owners can chime in...

1-16-2016_9-16-34_PM_(resized).png

#1655 4 years ago

Just for kicks, what if you trigger the OTHER switch, the one nearest the TREX, manually to see if it enables the Control Room? This might help confirm the wires are not swapped - though you have noted things worked properly until today.

Your edit #2 seems significant. The ball should trip the switch as it passes over it. Maybe the actuator arm has become deformed just enough to miss the ball but register when you manually depress with your finger.

Here is mine (#60). The tab at the end of the arm is actually nicely flush with the bottom surface of the subway, even though it kind of looks to be slightly off of that surface. You can tweak the position of that switch to improve the alignment of the arm.

1-16-2016_10-02-54_PM_(resized).png

3 weeks later
#1700 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

Hello everyone,
looking to become a club member in good standing.

The best thing I did to my JP was to replace all the insert lamps with Comet warm white non-ghosting LEDs. Really freshened the look of the machine. I also added a superbright RED under the TRex saucer tied into the nearby TRex lamp - looks awesome! I left the GI as incandescent as the warm glow is my preference.

Good luck!

a340dc05e436fce1acfa6fe885ebaad23d266561_(resized).png

#1720 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one got pics of how they prop their playfield when they work on it? Not like straight up, but when you pull it out towards the coin door. There arent any brackets on mine l, id like some rails or something. Would make it so much easier to do work on it.

Over the top bungee cord, clipped to playfield bracket.

576f0e5416316cbc9b5f59253ce9d199312af6fb_(resized).png

Edit: Oops, misread. Not straight up. My JP has brackets.

#1724 3 years ago

Jim, I left the the original plastic saucer. Superbright bulb is plenty strong to keep its color - nice and bright.

1 week later
#1776 3 years ago

You may need to wiggle the ramp a bit to get it properly positioned to align with the receiving screw threads.

#1795 3 years ago

I'd bet a substantial ZIP TIE across the end of the subway, somehow secured to the bottom of the playfield might suffice as a workaround to hold it in place.

#1797 3 years ago

Very nice idea, woody! That would work well.

#1807 3 years ago

The WHT-BLU wires enters the harness where I have circled and continues in the main harness to the backbox. Follow the adjacent BLU-RED wire into the harness, clip the zip ties along the way until you find the broken/loose end of the WHT-BLU wire. Solder the ends together, apply shrink tubing to insulate, add back zip ties to support.

2-27-2016_10-42-57_AM_(resized).png
2-27-2016_10-47-59_AM_(resized).png

Hope that helps

#1809 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

appreciate this!!! This must be the issue related to my VUK and trex as both happened at the same time.

Maybe more broken/shorted than just BLU-WHT? Do some continuity checking on the wires for those assys, all the way to the backbox.

#1812 3 years ago

Ahh, I thought that wire was still attached to its assy.

The WHT-BLU wire attaches to the left pop bumper:

2-27-2016_11-41-53_AM_(resized).png

#1825 3 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

uhm, well, they did not really bounce the ball much around, so I guess...sluggish?
I think the main problem was the gap was too big bwteen the switch leafs. Now its actually worth something shooting into the pops in stampede, or actually managing to save timmy

Yes! I swapped out the spoons and tweaked the switch gaps. Crazy active pops now. I love it!

#1841 3 years ago

I used the Williams style spoons.

#1876 3 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Anyone using the Chad code upgrade have problems with Tri-ball? Mine starts fine, plays well, but when last ball drains it still thinks there is a ball available, so does a ball search and finally launches another ball. Not sure if it's just my machine.

I have had rare issues where JP is looking for a non-missing ball. I did have the leg break off of trough switch #5. Replacement arrived last night, maybe there was some intermittency. I'll install this weekend.

#1878 3 years ago

Thanks Chad, great link. Time to check SW #7. I can't believe I just received the replacement SW #5 from Marcos last night, I could have added that to this order - another round of shipping fees. Ugh.

#1910 3 years ago

Replaced trough switch #5, center leg was broken off. I also had the apron removed to inspect the shooter VUK as Chad recommended just up thread. Switch was fine, but shooter coil flange was actually missing a mounting screw. The apron must have been doing a pretty good job holding the coil assy in place. With the apron removed, the coil assy was just flopping around.

Played a bunch of games on JP - still pretty good fun. Been a while with my new GoT sitting right beside.

#1913 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Had a pretty good 400mill + game last night. Games before were around 35-50 mill. Just seems like MET and TWD don't last very long. Don't watch GoT, so I don't have any idea what anything means, but has been fun to learn.

35-50M seems to be my typical lack luster score. However, things can ramp-up quickly with a few good shots, finished houses, multipliers and super jackpots!

I am a big fan of the show. There really is not much about the gameplay that really requires even a minimal knowledge of the show or story. The music and character call outs are what make it great for me!

#1919 3 years ago

Hard to see in that photo, but also looks like the diode's lead may be touching the switch's center leg. I've added a small legnth of heatshrink on the center leg to avoid accidental contact in case something gets bumped.

Here's mine for comparison:

3-7-2016_8-12-02_AM_(resized).png

#1962 3 years ago

me too!

#1968 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Is anyone willing to scan three plastics for me? It's the gun-plastic in the shooter lane and the two plastics around the entrance to the bumpers. Please hit me up and I'll somehow compensate for your time.

PM me, I have scanned nearly the full set. I can send you the link.

2 weeks later
#2048 3 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

If anyone cares:
I'm waiting on Pinsound to step in to fix something in the firmware before I can show off something. I'm pretty far with the mix and it is a lot of fun. (I think)
I really hope you guys will like it as much.

Can't wait to see/hear your results!

#2051 3 years ago

Spent a little time on JP tonite:

> Warm-white frosted LEDs in the backbox, blinker LEDs in the bottom 2 rows

> Warm-white non-ghosting LEDs in all the inserts

> Retained & refreshed all the incandescents in the GI

> Red super bright LED in the TRex saucer

> Warm-white, frosted LED strip, dimmed to ~50% brightness to illuminate the banner and dark backplate.

The game feels brand new! Nice and bright, vivid colors, not harsh. Very much keeping the warm incandescent glow on the playfield! Very happy with this result!

Notes:

On the LED strips, I simply zip-tied them to a ~20in piece of hobby wood strip, velcro'd to the top of the cabinet behind the banner, routed the wires thru to the backbox via a dimmer, then clipped to the backlight GI w/alligator clips. I am quite happy with the color temperature of the warm-white strip and the somewhat less harsh effect from the frosted filter. Prior tests with bright white, amber LEDs, even adding a yellow gel did not produce as nice a result as this.

All LEDs and strip came from Comet.

3-31-2016_9-17-32_PM.png

#2054 3 years ago

Sorry, just one more. Loving it! The white and blue inserts are just so vivid, not quite conveyed in the photo.

3-31-2016_10-44-56_PM.png

#2058 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Is that Ice Blue you used?

I sampled several color matching LEDs in the inserts. I ended up using the supreme brightness warm-white, non-ghosting, frosted bulbs in all the inserts. I prefer this result - colored LEDs did not add much and might have produced a somewhat less vivid result than white in the inserts.

1 month later
#2141 3 years ago

Hey comment23,

Fun game, improved with Chad's ROM.

I ordered mine from John Wart. An easy 5 minute job to replace the ROM chips.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/johnwartjr

NVRAM, just as easy to install. Get those batteries out asap.

I also replaced a couple burned connectors, and removed the oxidation from the offending pins on the power supply board. No signs of new overheating, though the machine is only turned on during gameplay.

Enjoy!

1 week later
#2172 3 years ago

Check voltages at the DMD pins. My JP DMD was out; turned out to be a cracked diode in the HV section of the power supply board. $0.05 part, 10 minute fix.

Hope it's as easy for you!

#2175 3 years ago

Next simple test: Check the connector seating, then orientation of pin 1 of the ribbon cable at both ends.

#2181 3 years ago

Here is the upper flipper on my JP. The band on the diode is pointing DOWN in this image.

5-16-2016_9-13-56_AM_(resized).png

1 week later
#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

I'm wondering if it's a ground loop issue.

From the reading I've done on this issue, I suspect this is exactly the issue I was seeing. Floating the sound board from the backplane (ground) had a huge effect on my machine. Hum was reduced by 80%, almost not even noticed any more.

Note; On my machine - there is actually no ground plane on the backside of the sound board, ground is provided by the screw heads themselves against the groundplane on the top side of the board. I placed nylon washers under the screw heads and got the 80% reduction.

My next tact was going to use an external power supply - however, I no longer see the need to tinker any more.

#2232 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Burn 2 new roms and swap them over

...or contact John Wart and simply order the pair:

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/de.html

#2247 3 years ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

the dmd won't come on.

My DMD went out. After a little bit of sleuthing, I found a broken diode (cracked) in the HV section of the PS board. $0.05 repair.

Even if you don't keep it, a little effort might bring a nice return.

Good luck!

#2275 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Talking about the saucer, right? I had an incorrect saucer on mine. People have suggested buying the clear ones from Marcos and putting a light underneath it.

My JP has a Yellow saucer. The super bright red LED (Comet) beneath has no problem shining through. I love the effect!

ca73f04e729a8f5ef61a77543bc332de3d38acea_(resized).png

Also, I notice you are missing a dome cover on the flasher lamp just under the lower-left pop bumper. Marcos has these:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-LCOVER

#2291 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

If you wiggle, jiggle, or slowly pull the connector out, does the display work, or at least try to come back to life?

This was going to be my suggestion. My DMD pwr connector was very loose!

1 month later
#2423 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

OK, emails sent, if you haven't received check your spam. If you still haven't received let me know. If you still need one pm me.

Thanks Rondogg! Got it, added to my google drive where my JP plastic scans reside. If anyone wants that link, pls PM me.

I'll be printing the Grass decal (near the TRex saucer) and "Install 6 Balls" decal early next week.

mark

2 weeks later
#2443 3 years ago

I tried to add scoop lighting with LED strips but could not find a good spot to locate. Inside the scoop, tucked into a corner of the mechanism under the playfield caused ball interference. Adding a strip along an exterior split in the scoop mechanisms under the playfield did not produce a great result. I abandoned the idea.

What approach are you using? I'd leave the topside lights as they are, but also add lighting below to augment. This would compliment the TRex saucer LED mod which looks awesome. My goal was to get a RED glowing from all below playfield openings - i.e., like LAVA.

#2446 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I drilled two holes in the subway. What is shown are three LED bulbs. I was planning on the four surface mount LEDs, but these seemed to be better.

Ahh, good idea. You were brave to drill the scoop; glad to see it worked well! I may follow your lead.

#2452 3 years ago

Yes, just like that! How did you illuminate your scoops? Drilling?

#2456 3 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

No drilling or permanent modifications involved. I used LED strips.

Hmm, tried small red Comet strips (2-3 led segments) affixed to the top/inside of the mechanism between the scoops. Interfered with the ball. Maybe I'll need to revisit.

#2460 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

How did you illuminate the back banner. I can do a 2 minute job!

For me, took more like 10-15 minutes

1. I used a Comet Matrix 18" LED strip (frosted warm white)
2. I added the dimmer option, inserted in-line
3. Attached wires to backbox GI, w/alligator clips for time being
4. I attached the LED strip to a wooden dowel for rigidity with Zip ties every few inches
5. I attached the dowel behind the the banner, to the top of the cabinet with Velcro patches (might improve this later)
6. Ran the wires from the backbox to the LED strip with enough slack to permit the head to be folder down, with no obstruction (I might add some sleeving to the LED strip wires - they are pretty flimsy)
7. I dimmed the LED strip just a bit to be less obnoxious - warm white fits the incandescent color temp pretty well

I think it came out great!

6GZEapp_(resized).png

#2463 3 years ago

Rondogg,

Very simple. Clipped very near the hinge & zip-tied to the existing harness. Minimal strain and impingement when the backbox door is opened/closed, and then when the head is folded down.

I may solder the attachment someday, but not motivated to do so just now - it's all working just fine.

7-22-2016_5-53-52_PM_(resized).png

1 month later
#2523 3 years ago

Looks great, I think I may follow your lead. I'm not bashful about drilling the scoop. As you note, ball does not touch, no one can see.

#2549 3 years ago

When my DMD went out, F7 kept blowing, game played just fine same as you. I found odd voltages on the HV section of the power supply board feeding the DMD.

Poking around on the PS board, I found a cracked diode in the HV circuit. I replaced and everything was happy again. Hopefully you'll have a $0.05 repair too!

Did you attempt to (carefully) measure the output voltages at the DMD?

#2551 3 years ago

If you'd like any photos for comparison, let me know.

#2553 3 years ago

Good start on the D5 find. Are you getting voltage readings at the DMD connector? Mine were way off, not just marginally bad. Can you swap your JP DMD into another machine to see if it is truly fried?

I also replaced the ribbon cable. There was a severe crimp in my original cable.

#2555 3 years ago

Looking at my JP board just now, I also replaced D5 diode (mine was cracked).

The nearby transistors should be easy to reach/test (TR1, TR2, TR3, TR4, TR6). Probe the other components in that section for obvious issues (shorts & opens), though probing components in-circuit can produce misleading results. This is about the limit of my diagnostics. But, I have replaced transistors/diodes on the MPU and flipper board via this approach with good results. Replacing caps for new certainly cannot hurt and should be a very simple task.

I have a rottendog PS board I used initially before repairing the original board. It worked but seriously exacerbated the 60Hz hum thru the speakers. I was happy to swap the original board back in - after floating the sound board hum is reduced nearly 100%.

1 month later
#2652 3 years ago

Hey Time,

I don't see those resistors on my JP Flipper board. Looks like someone was looking to address a voltage or current issue(?) Do you have the schematics?

My JP flipper board had been repaired in the past, and was blowing a Fuse (F3). I replaced a very toasty TIP36C, 1N4004 & a 47 Ohm resistor next to the blown F3 fuse and all was well. My repair replaced the prior repair - so posibly some other upstream issue is the root (?) Poke around the TIP36C transistors, diodes & resistors. Everything is very easy to get to on that board.

As for 60Hz hum... Yep, apparently a very typical DE sound board issue, and was very prevalent on my JP. Is very likely related to ground loop issues. The common fix is to "float" the sound board OFF the backboard ground plate. This is pretty simple, actually and reduced the hum by 90% on my machine.

All you need to do is place nylon washers under the mounting screw heads to break the connection with back plate ground. There are no traces on the backside of the sound board at the mtg screw points (at least on my machine), so no need to insert washers behind the board itself.

Good luck!

#2655 3 years ago

I used Valspar Satin Black (spray and 1/2 pint can). Was a pretty good match in color and sheen. I filled the largest blemishes with wood putty, sanded, masked and sprayed. Came out pretty good, the deepest gashes disappeared.

I dip a paper towel into the can and wipe-on/wipe-off to hide the light duty scratches and slightly raised grain patches on the body.

I have not attempted to match or touch-up the Red or Yellow. I do have a couple spots/scratches I could probably improve, but I left these alone - not terrible at all.

9 months later
#3382 2 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Hi guys
I've noticed on some JP's they have a decal around the scoop in front of the T. rex. Mine is bare wood.
Is this an after market mod (like Congo in lane plastics) or factory?
If it is a mod, does anyone know where it's from or have a scanned copy I could have?
Kind regards
Gaz

Gaz, I have a scan of the decals. I just PM'd a link for you.

4 weeks later
#3554 2 years ago

Yay, free money!

2 weeks later
#3624 2 years ago

Just hang onto the replaced ROMs. Next buyer can decide.

#3647 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It probably ships with batteries installed. Yikes.

But, they were 1993 batteries. My JP sat in my basement for nearly 15 years with original batteries installed. No leaks.

Then I discovered Pinside and promptly replaced with an nvram.

1 week later
#3670 2 years ago
Quoted from IceMaster:

I'm hoping to join the club soon. I'm going to look at my first JP this weekend. What are some some things I should be checking more carefully than others? What are some common "no big deal" issues with JPs? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Broken TRex left and right action is a common issue. It can be turned off if settings if the motor/gears have failed. Does not affect gameplay, but is a fun feature.

Also, check that Chaos scoops are registering properly. Diodes/solder joints on these coils are known to break due to wear and tear. It's an easy fix, once you find them. In later runs, DE moved the diodes off the coils onto a remote daughterboard under the playfield.

Good luck!

2 months later
#3876 2 years ago

Dimple is there on mine too. No post.

9 months later
#4537 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I would say that unless the machine was the dark for 25 years, most people’s fluorescent orange is faded. I had to repaint mine when I restored it. I have only seen a couple over the years that didn’t look mostly yellow.

Ding, ding, ding - My JP has been in my finished basement for the last 18+ years. It did come off route back then, but has been babied since. Oranges look great, minimal wear at the holes.

3 months later
#4879 1 year ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Hi JP lovers!
Maybe I'm going to trade my Phantom of the opera for a Jurassic Park. What are the things I should check in the Jurassic Park? What are common problems? And is it a good deal?
Kind regards,
Dwight

Check the main playfield wire harness, it can rub against the upper right flipper coil stop. The vibration of the flipper coil can cause the harness to saw against the coil stop, shorting the wiring. This can cause random coil firing, blown fuses, and switch matrix shorts.

The prior owner of my JP used black electrical tape as a cushion - what a sticky mess. I removed thinking there would be damage, but found none. I zip-tied the harness in a way that nicely clears the solenoids - no more sticky.

Also, the main subway replacements can be hard to find. Inspect the attachment flanges for breaks and cracks. I had a crack in the right most flange which I reinforced with a small piece of acrylic, fitted to match the contours and welded in place with this solvent. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-solvent-to-repair-pinball-ramps-and-plasticsend-of-story. If I could have used a more viscous version of this would have been better - this stuff is thinner than water.

Good luck finding your JP!

1 week later
#4931 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Question, How is the Pteradon mounted?

That sounds like the first line to a joke. Like, "What's a henway?"

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 50.00
3,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
League City, TX
$ 5,899.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
3,750
Machine - For Sale
Gap, PA

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider markp99.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside