(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by jurassicpark93
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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


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#3107 2 years ago

Figures, after I buy them from Germany.

#3124 2 years ago
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:

I can do it. Do you have the file? Otherwise, send me some pictures and measurements and I'll build the model myself. I don't have a JP any more, but we can probably work together to get it right.

I would buy one of those.

1 week later
#3151 2 years ago
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:

Hmm, these look a lot different from the originals.
We were going to produce a mini kit for JP but held off once I heard CPR were doing a set. Apart from the color differences and light pass issues the lines look a little heavy as if the art has been autotraced in Illustrator, hence why some detail is lost.
I think we'll go ahead with our mini kit and get as close to original as possible.

Why do a mini kit? Just do the whole thing.

#3154 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

What would a mini kit include? I feel like I have so many broken originals that some will get left out if a repro kit isn't full.

I'm disappointed about the darker blue more now seeing it installed on the pf in your pics. You can see where the stock blue plastics match the pf, but the repro blue is a new color added into the mix. I wonder what they were referencing to come up with such a darker Pantone color. On one hand I'm glad CPR made them, but as a big fan of this pin, it kind of sucks to have to settle for something less than perfect.
I'm not entirely up to speed on the CPR process, but it seems like there should be some kind of peer review process to ensure correct colors... or maybe do more crowd sourcing for some things like post a pic of the plastic being used for reference next to Pantone swatches noting the intended color. Those of us who own a machine and Pantone books could weigh in. Maybe post general pics of the set of plastics being referenced and see if owners notice issues compared to their set.
I would have gladly participated for free in order to get a perfect JP set.
Maybe the set CPR referenced truly was darker with thicker lines than what most of us have?

I think CPR just has a problem with blue. The blues are too dark in JP, LW3 and F14. That's just the ones that I know about.

And as far as the mini kit goes. If you have broken plastics then the rest probably don't look that good. When I restore a game, I want all new stuff. Why not have both options?

1 month later
#3244 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

get anti reflective glass...pdi, invisi-glass, or planertary's product

I was at TPF and there was a sheet the new Stern glass on a GB. I didn't think it helped at all. All the reflections were still there, they just all had a pink hue to them. Maybe it works better in a darker environment

2 months later
#3431 2 years ago

So having never had one before, has there been a consensus on LCD v LED? I will be putting one of these in mine.

2 weeks later
#3563 2 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

Ok so it is the column of switches containing smart missile, trigger, all three turbos, and the two slings. Column 41-48. Need to test the board and the transistor.

Also mess with the switch plug on the main board. When they wear out you can have a switch or row go bad. If you move the plug and they start to work, then you have a cold solder joint on the pin or the plug needs to be replaced.

#3569 2 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

Actually figured out what you meant here and moved the CN8 plug over 1 space. When doing that, all switches in that column worked except 1, the egg cracker. Could this be as you say a cold solder joint at the third pin AND something at the egg? Or possibly something else?

Now rest the switches that are now on the other pin. If that column now doesn't work then you either have a cold solder joint on that pin or a transistor/chip problem.

What I originally meant was to move the plug (up down left right) while plugged in as you are trying to activate the switches to see if they would work when you put "pressure" on The plug. In this case if they worked then I would reflow the solder on all the pins. If it still is problematic, replace the connector.

Moving the plug over one pin is what I was going to suggest next to test exactly what you did so good problem solving on your part.

Normally a si for switch not working will indicate a broken wire or switch someplace. I do t have a manual in front of me so I am not sure how far down the line that switch is. Normally if you have a broken wire then all switches past that point don't work.

4 weeks later
#3669 2 years ago
Quoted from IceMaster:

I'm hoping to join the club soon. I'm going to look at my first JP this weekend. What are some some things I should be checking more carefully than others? What are some common "no big deal" issues with JPs? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From a cosmetic standpoint, JP is bad for having blown out scoop holes and the area that holds the ball for the TRex to pick it up. There also can be damage on the shooter lane where the ball is kicked out.

Plastics used to be unobtanium but there ar a couple of sets out there now.

Good luck

#3673 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

You ain't kiddin. I'm a first-timer fixing up my own playfield, the edges in that area are pretty chewed up and I have no idea how I'm going to fix them - if I want to fix them at all.
edit: This is around the t-rex ball chomp area I'm talking about; the reamed out scoop holes are comparatively simple to fix.
The purist in me wants to put them back the way they were made, so I tried bondoing them but matching the wood colour on the flat portion in that area's nigh-impossible. Plan C is some clear epoxy, but the dams for that are going to be tricky work. Making a mould of the area and fashioning a metal form for the area around the hole isn't completely out of the question but the intermediate work on that's gonna suck out loud.
The realist in me figures that having a 90° wooden form on the playfield making contact with the ball is a design error, and "fixing" it by just rounding the sharp edges and protecting them with some hardener and 2pac would be both easier to do and a more permanent fix.

I show how I fixed mine in my "Jurassic Park Restoration" thread.

#3675 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

Oh believe me I'm F5ing the crap out of that thread, there's some great info in there. You're an artist, I'm a kid at the beach with a plastic pail. My own thread's gonna make you cry
My T-rex area's a lot darker and it's got more of an obvious wood grain than yours seems to, but it's also covered in a pretty thick layer of what looks like lacquer. I tried some spot fixes but I think the saner option is just to bring it all down to bare wood. This is an intermediate pic of one of my trials where I got partway through removing the tester before realizing I hadn't taken a picture of it yet; all that crap's since been removed again. Experimenting on the real playfield is scary but you learn what works waaaay faster.

Those sharp 90s around the lowered area just got pummeled by the ball. They should've been rounded off in the first place.

Have you thought about rounding the whole thing off instead of fixing it back to hard edges?

I am in the middle of spraying my PF as we speak.

#3677 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

I'm 90% on that option, honestly. That corner at the hole's 11 o'clock is gonna get hit a lot and idk if anything short of a metal edge guard is going to keep it true... and if Cliffy adds any more metal to this table DE's gonna have to give him a design credit. Giving it a gentle bevel would also let me paint it the colour that's on the topside, which I've already matched. I'm less concerned about the drop on the hole because that yellow plastic insert soaks most of the damage. I'd considered clearing it in situ but I know that if I did that, something would shatter it just to piss me off.
Today I learn how the airbrush works, and then I get to masking some of the larger black areas. No point in doing the finer work until the Cliffys show up in the mail and I find out just how good my control room/bunker kungfu really is .

I have a set of Cliffys but I am going to save them. I am going to try and use the Mantis ones along with some edge protection to see if that works. If it starts chewing again then I will put on the Cliffys.

1 week later
#3693 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

Was that paint under the jackpot arrows always yellow? Mine's fluorange.

It's faded. Very common with this game. The original paint is Fluorecsent orange. If you still have it then good for you.

4 weeks later
#3760 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Who do I gotta pay $15 to around here who wants to make dock signs with their 3D printer?

I'm also working on one for my machine.

#3765 2 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I like the idea of a sign that spins for a second you hit the target. I think it should be static most of the time. I also wonder about the cost increase to have it spin.

The one I am developing for my machine will reverse the sign direction when a certain condition is met. It won't be cheap though. The servo itself is $25. Then you have to have a servo controller. I will consider making it available after I play test mine for a while but the price may not be doable. But that's fine because I am primarily making it for my machine. My goal is to make it appear part of the machine and not an look like an "add on"

#3768 2 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

This sounds great. I don't know if mods are your business and I fault no man for making money. My favorite mods are the ones that sell you the specific parts and tell you how to do the common stuff. IE. You sell the sign and create a guide of were to buy the additional parts and how hook it up. Or maybe sell both options the basic DIY mod and the premium plug and play version.

I will keep that in mind. Part of the reason that I bought my 3D printer was for mod development. At some point I plan on getting into the "business" but I have no time frame. My guess is that now as I restore games and come up with stuff, I might make them available if they work out well. We will see what happens.
The one thing I can tell you is that if I ever put out mods for sale, they will be high quality and unique. I love doing the "wow" stuff.

1 month later
#3874 2 years ago

I need a little help from you guys that have an assembled JP in front of you.

Some of you may be following my thread on my full JP restoration.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration

I am in the process of cleaning the screw holes of clear coat before assembly and I have ran into an issue. On the left out lane, my machine did not have a metal post with a ring on it. It appears that nothing was ever installed there but the dimple for the screw is there. I have seen pictures that show a post installed and other that look like mine. The manual calls for a ring at that location and it appears in the drawings on both sides. Just trying to get an idea if there is supposed to be a post there. I don't want to clean the hole out and then realize there isn't supposed to be a post there.

Thanks for the help.

#3878 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Go back about 2 pages and I asked this same thing. Idk if a real final decision was ever made...
I actually thought if anyone would know it would be you!

Sorry, I remember reading about what rubber went on the post but I guess I missed the post or no post. lol

#3880 2 years ago

Thanks. It seems that the post shouldn't be there so that's what I will start out with.

1 week later
#3930 2 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I have the same issue, mine is so bad it never actually makes it into the pop bumper area from the shooter lane any longer.

You need to adjust the curved ball guide in the shooter lane.

#3942 2 years ago
Quoted from jamex:

Hello to all,
I'm a new member, I write from Italy and JP is one of my 3 pinballs together with Tales from the crypt and Lethal Weapon 3

I love the "custom" topper.

2 weeks later
#4012 2 years ago

I just read over the document and it appears there is a typo. I'm sure everyone would figure this out when looking at the graphic but they say cut the Trace between R23 and R25. When you look at the graphic it is R52 not R25. Wonder if they messed anything else up. Make sure you go by the text and the graphic to make sure it makes sense.

1 week later
#4084 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Just picked up a JP and pop bumpers are weak as hell. Would love them to be punchier, any suggestions on where to go for replacements?
Thanks in advance.

I would take them apart and clean them and replace the coils sleeves. Then adjust the switches and see how they work.

#4085 2 years ago

Question for you guys and gals. I have never seen any wear on the front of the C, A and S scoops yet they all have mylar in front of them. I can see the C scoop because it is an eject scoop but the others just drop the ball on the subway ramp. I didn't even show any wear between the edge of the mylar and the front of the scoop yet the sides were completely blown out. Just wondering if they though it was going to wear but in reality it wasn't needed. I'm thinking about not putting the mylar in front of the C scoop but not the A and S scoops. This was a full restoration with auto clear. What are your opinions?

#4090 2 years ago
Quoted from Jenniebear:

I removed the mylar from the inserts over 2 years ago. Hundreds of play and no signs of wear. The mylar was so dirty and someone used something abrasive, thinking magic eraser. Also I removed it in front of the sling shots and no damage. I left it around the pop bumpers and it looks like crap.

So no wear in front of the kickout scoop either? Im not putting Mylar in front of the slings or pops either. I will put the squares under the ramp drops though.

#4092 2 years ago

Does anyone have pictures of the Mantis hole protectors installed? There are no instructions and I cant find any pictures. I think I know how they fit but it laves a screw that gets in the way of the scoop mechanism.

Thanks

#4121 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Doesn't mean he doesn't have one. I think there was someone on this forum that waited over a year before installing theirs.

I was In the first batch. I think it's #8. Still In the box but it's getting close.

1 week later
#4229 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Finally received up down motor. Now the trex goes up down no problem but doesn’t swallow the ball. First I thought trex wasn’t upright enough but it looks like it can’t go up any further.
Now I am thinking the jaw doesn’t close enough. The link appears to be OK. If I would shorten the plunger of grind the coilstop, this would give the mouth some more slack I guess. If I remove the coilstop the mouth can close further by hand.
Enclosed a picture of the jawlink which appears to be OK.
Any suggestions ?

I appears your jaw link has been modified. I looks like the original piece at the very top has broken off. That is the part that is supposed to go in the jay. Your looks like a rod has been added to "fix"it. The problem is that it is at a lower position on the rod so it will not close the mouth as much. This may be your problem.

Here is a picture of my original one as a comparison
IMG_4424 (resized).JPG

#4256 1 year ago

Curious if anyone knows the reason for the narrow bracket that overhangs the narrow green target just to the right of the center scoop? Is it protection for air balls or does it serve another purpose?

Thanks

1 week later
#4274 1 year ago

Would anyone happen to have a scan or digital file of the ramp flap?

1 week later
#4281 1 year ago

Could someone do me a favor? I need a picture of the switch that is attached to the ramp in the top left corner. I am pretty sure mine is no original and rigged up and I would like to put it back the way it is supposed to be. I could not get a good enough picture of the switch on IPBD.

Thanks

#4284 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Not really. The most wear is in the shooter lane and scoops, and a bit on the T-REX and boat dock saucer on mine.
Welcome to the club!

Thanks Gord. I guess mine was right. I just thought that lever was messed up but I guess that was the design. lol

1 week later
#4303 1 year ago

Looking for a nice back panel plastic. I have a reproduction (non CPR) but would be interested in an original or CPR if someone has one.

Thanks

2 weeks later
#4312 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Hmmm
There is for sure some slack as I have had the same experience. 1/2 inch sounds like a little to much. With me the problem was that the screw which holds the assy to the motor was loose. Perhaps with you to? Make sure you use some loctite other wise you will have to do this tightening again soon

Mine has no slack at all. Rock solid when you touch it. I don't think there should be any. It's a gear box. If you have meovevemnt then something is not right.

2 months later
#4417 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

I've been trying to dial in my t-rex mod for quite some time. Never wants to swallow the ball.

I did a couple of things.
1. The teeth need to be bent out pretty far to scoop the ball.
2. I put a small pad under the jaw plunger to help the mouth close just a bit when the trex stands up
3. I then bend the top of the mouth down a so there is just enough clearance for the ball to go between the teeth when the trex goes to eat it. This may sound weird but by bending it down, you are creating and inverted wedge (ramp) that will force the ball back to the back of the throat when the lower jaw comes up to bite.

I'm sure there are other ideas but this has been rock solid for me.

#4419 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I noticed there was a large hole in the jaw where the lever connects to the jaw. I put a small tie wrap through the top of the hole so the lever was tighter in the hole.

Yeah. I think it's pretty standard to have the hole made larger due to wear. I actually replaced mine.

#4433 1 year ago

If it’s the center scoop switch then the remote diode was a change to later games because the force of the ball hitting the scoop would eventually break the diode. Should be an easy trace. From what I remember the white wires go to the switch. I guess they got lazy and didn’t use the colored wire to continue past the diode. I am not where I can look at my machine but that’s what I remember from my restore.

If all of the switches work then I am not sure what the extra wires are for unless it was hacked at some point.

1 month later
#4450 1 year ago

And he ^ is the man. It looks amazing. I have #8

1 week later
#4481 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Color sanded and buffed. I've only done one side and the front so far. I may add another few coats of clear on the other side. I did not get the decals sanded completely flat, kinda scary which is why I want to add clear to the other side. I'm no professional, this has been a big learning experience but something that I've wanted to do.... Cause shiney is so cool.
[quoted image]

I did the exact same thing to my cab. You will have a stunning machine when finished. Very nice work.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/5

#4485 1 year ago

Pop the cover off the motor and just spin it with your fingers.

#4491 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

My guess is there may be a small break in the wires somewhere that shorts when the head goes down, most of the time maintaining its connection but when bent just right cuts out.[quoted image]

The wires in your picture are only for the coil that controls the jaw. The motor wires are completely under the playfield. I would check the wire connections to the motor and also check the wires to the "up" switch and the switch itself. If this switch is adjusted poorly so it makes contact randomly then the game will think the trex is up and the motor will quit. I would pull up the diagnostics screen for the trex and move it up and down with the controls and see if you can reproduce the problem. If you can, then take a look at the status of the switches and see what they indicate.

1 month later
#4513 1 year ago
Quoted from newovad:

Okay, hive mind, help me out.
I recently replaced fuse clips on my flipper board when my left flipper died. I had a bunch that were weak and not holding together anymore.
After replacing clips, left flipper still doesn't work. All connections seem good and I'm comparing everything to the right flipper. After flipping 8 or 9 times on the right, left flipper comes back to life.
I've played about 20 games since and the left flipper has gone dead mid-game a few times only to be resurrected by furious flipping on the right. Should I resolder my clips or are we looking at a different problem? Help point me in the correct direction on a fix. Thanks.

During the time that it is dead, are you getting the red light on the flipper board? Also check your connections to the flipper board. When it is dead, try moving the connectors around. May need a new connector or the solder may need re-flowed on the pins.

1 week later
#4533 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Do you guys need new playfields? Mine looks great, best of all my games I would say.

Mine looks great too.........now.

#4536 1 year ago

I would say that unless the machine was the dark for 25 years, most people’s fluorescent orange is faded. I had to repaint mine when I restored it. I have only seen a couple over the years that didn’t look mostly yellow.

#4558 1 year ago

That’s the same clear I use.

Very nice work.

#4561 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Do you find it to be a PITA to polish? Next time that I spray it, I'm going to try to polish at 24 hrs otherwise it seems far to hard.

Yeah. I’m not a professional and I don’t have anything to compare it too but it takes some work but have never really had a problem. I do my cabinets and playfields. I usually spray flat so I have a pretty good finish to start with.

1 week later
#4594 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Old vs. 3D printed new
[quoted image]

That thing takes a beating. I wonder how it will hold up over time. I have printed stuff for my game before but nothing that actually gets hit by the ball.

#4598 1 year ago

I actually went with a clear one and then used a green led under it along with a red interactive led.

4 weeks later
#4641 1 year ago
Quoted from JurassicJarvis:

Hi guys sorry abit random i was looking to have some of the parts of my pinball machine powdercoated, such as the legs the side and bottom trims the gun the coin mechanism. Originally i was going to go yellow on all these parts but after seeing a few machines with this set up i figured it didn't look as good as anticipated and i found this version on a website for a company that sells pinball machines over here in the UK based in London i believe. Anyhow here are some pics of there version, the playfield is rammed with dinasours probably abit much to be honest but the color scheme looks epic.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here is another variation of the red trim.
578E63F7-558A-481E-AEEE-44F531A322E8 (resized).jpeg

#4655 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I just want to find someone that can supply me with the inner wall art, that is great!

I have a set that matches the back panel art. I went with mirror blades. I also have a set of never used Loop combo.

#4673 1 year ago
Quoted from tomterlec:

I'm looking for the plastic that runs from the VUK all the way up behind the upper flipper. I think it's one piece? If anyone has a new or used one they are willing to sell, PM me.
[quoted image]

I put new plastics on mine earlier this year. I will see what shape my old one is in when I get back in town.

1 week later
#4693 1 year ago
Quoted from tbaum:

I'm thinking of buying a #JP and had a question. Do all JP come with a shaker motor already installed or is that something that I need to add myself? It makes the game so satisfying
Anything else I should be aware of when checking out a JP before buying?

I will point out what is wrong or missing on that machine and you can decide for yourself if it is worth the price. Some things listed are easy to fix and some no so much.

1. Obviously the crack in the ramp. I am not sure how a crack formed there unless it was set up so bad that the diverter hit it. Ramps are hard to come by and that cant be covered up like a crack on a ramp entry.
2. Looks like a gouge above the DE logo on the left side of the cabinet and planking on the right. You can never tell how bad or good the cab looks until you see it in person so these may be either worse or not as bad as the photo looks.
3. Topper is missing
4. Right flipper lane guide is broken
5. I cant tell if that is a piece of cleaning cloth on the Stampede computer insert. I think it is.
6. If you look close, a lot of the metal parts shot corrosion on them. More than likely, the metal parts under the playfield look the same. Maybe it was in a moist environment.
7. It kinda looks like the Mosquito Amber block might be cracked on the left. Its very hard to tell with a textured object and this would need to be inspected in person.
8. The plastic is missing above the upper right scoop, it has a home made brown plastic.
9. The ramp is cracked on the left side and bottom at the entrance. The left metal protector is either installed wrong or is not correct. It is supposed to extend the dame distance as the right side.
10. As mentioned above, the lights are missing above the Bunker and Control scoop.
11. The plastic is broken above the Bunker scoop (2 places) and Control scoop.
12. The Control scoop is blown out so bad that the Cliffy doesn't even cover it. More than likely, the other scoops are blown to and just covered instead of repaired and then covered.
13. The green single target to the right of the Control scoop is twisted 45 degrees to the right. Not sure if it is mounted wrong on bottom or a screw is out and it just rotated or its bent.
14. The green insert associated with the above target appears to have has a bad touchup job on the green outline and there appears to be damage to the playfield from the green ring out into the playfield to the left of the insert.
15. I have never seen a wire form ramp that has the "side" piece that is seen above the flippers. No big deal and maybe they changed it through the production run but I have never seen that. If you like it then its fine.
16. There is supposed to be a spotlight in the "Shoot the Trex now" box. Looks like it was replaced with a blue LED just as the normal red light above the box. Personal preference. Easy fix if you want to go back to stock.
17. Big clear plastic missing above the upper right flipper. This is to keep the ball from being stuck if it bounces on top of that plastic.

My point is not to talk you out of anything but just to make you aware of things to look at and if the work involved is worth the price you will pay. When done, will you will have what you want in the end. Good luck.

1 week later
#4734 1 year ago
Quoted from jugood20:

Anyone know where I can find an NOS or original used JP translite?
Also, has anyone bought a repro translite off of EBay, seller name “classicarcades”? If so, how is the quality ?

I have a JP and DE Star Wars from here and they are excellent.

http://www.arcadeoverlays.com/jurassic-park-replacement-pinball-translite/

1 month later
#4814 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Ive been playing my game a lot lately. Pinsound seems like an inevitable upgrade. I have been watching videos on youtube and listened to a few different machines with a pinsound and the new sound orchestration. Does any one else think that the beginning intro music is way too quiet and underwhelming compared to the original? I like that its the REAL movie music, but it seems SO quiet. The "welcome to jurassic park" is super quiet too, it sounds like its a clip of the audio from when they enter the gate in the movie. Doesnt give me that "HERE WE GO" feeling. The music while you play is very quiet as well, doesnt get my blood pumping at all. Almost sounds like a lullaby, lol.
I dunno...I figure this is the next major mod for this game...just not sure its worth the money if I am not going to like it. I also dont have time or talent to do my own re-orchestration.
Opinions wanted.

I have it in mine and it is amazing. I have a Sub hooked up and it sounds superb. This sound package/theme really lend itself to the sub with all the deep sounds. Its by far the best sounding pin in my collection.

#4818 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

I've got a questions about the Pinsound board. For someone who wants to keep all the stock sounds, would it still be worth it? Subwoofer has already made a big difference. Replacing the stock speakers and in-cab sub didn't do a whole lot. Do stock sounds sound any better with Pinsound?

I not sure what the point would be if you don't change the sounds. I have put stock sounds in for testing and I cant see any noticeable difference. Maybe someone else can chime in on this but its a lot of money to spend for the same sounds. Personally I would put an external sub for two reasons. First, there is only so much a cabinet sub can do. Second, in my experience it tends to rattle any part of the game that is not tight. These cabinets are 25 years old and have a lot of rattling parts. An external sub takes that out of the equation. In fact, in the VP I built, to just removed the lower cab speaker al together and added an external sub and it sounds awesome.

3 weeks later
#4990 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Not sure I would personally do it, but any considerations for making available the files for those with 3D printers? Maybe set up a patreon page where people cab donate to get access?
Also, perhaps someone like mezelmods would manufacture them and give you a cut? If you've got a proven product, there's probably a path forward where you can still earn from it, and make it available, even if you don't want to be directly involved in production.

I agree with this. I would hate to see these mods go away. Some
of the best out there. Good luck with your future business.

1 week later
#5031 11 months ago
Quoted from Davedigger:

Does anyone know the best way to get the lower jaw off the trex? I’d like to send it to get redone by the modfather and all of the body pieces simply unscrew but the jaw plastic is riveted on. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
[quoted image]

There is a pin that goes through the jaw at the pivot point. There is a C clip on each end. Just take that off and slide the pin out. You will then have to drill the rivit out to remove the plastic piece.

#5033 11 months ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Control room shot isn’t registering. Lifted the PF, saw a wire hanging(see pic). Thought oh simple fix. Soldered the wire onto the center lug, but still can’t get it to register. Any thoughts on next step?
[quoted image]

Check the diode. In later games, that diode was moved remotely to the playfield because the vibration would break the diode.

1 week later
#5141 11 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

I think i need to replace this thing too it doesnt pop the balls out strong enough
[quoted image]

It may be out of alignment. If the ball doesn’t go straight up, it rattled against the wiredorm on the way up and doesn’t make it.

2 weeks later
#5284 11 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

One other question, i searched this thread and the internet a bit, but didn't have much luck. Probably not using the right terms.
Is it possible to replace the insert in front of t-rex? I noticed it's screwed in from the bottom instead of a pressed/glued insert. Is a replacement available?
Thanks!

Yes. Search Marco or Pinballlife for “eject hole” or “eject Shield”

#5285 11 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

One other question, i searched this thread and the internet a bit, but didn't have much luck. Probably not using the right terms.
Is it possible to replace the insert in front of t-rex? I noticed it's screwed in from the bottom instead of a pressed/glued insert. Is a replacement available?
Thanks!

And when you replace it. You will see that one of the screws is missing. Don’t put a screw in there or it will poke out the top of the playfield. It’s over the lower area around that insert.

3 weeks later
#5482 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What is the best/easiest way to replace the two bulbs under the plastic ramp just behind the gate? Should it be done from the bottom of the playfield by removing the sockets, or if from the top what all must be removed to get to them? I prefer natural white to warm white, and these are the only two warms remaining in GI (make things appear dingy to me).
[quoted image]

I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick

#5528 10 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

You know i guess i just set it up and never tinkered with it after the fact, but from what I'm reading now maybe you CAN use it to dim the backbox by itself, I'll have to dink around with it some more when I get some time.

I put two relays in the backbox. That turn the backbox GI off whenever the flippers are active. I’m sure Stern stole my idea when they added that adjustment to new pins.

1 week later
#5615 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.[quoted image]

My reproduction doesn’t have that hole. Don’t remember if the original did or not.

#5628 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Thanks.
Stupid question... when you say "the legs" do you mean the part that physically touches the ball or the parts underneath connected to wires?

The wire connections.

4 weeks later
#5934 8 months ago

I have a never isnstalled loop combo mod I will sell. Of course I have to find them. Lol

#5969 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok... who has done a playfield swap? Am I totally messed up here or is this wiring harness without any connectors at all? I either need to pull it entirely off the playfield while in the cabinet or snip every freaking zip tie and pull every single connector off the boards in the backbox? Fucking Data East... every other wiring loom has a connector.
[quoted image]

Should be able to take the connectors off the boards without having to take the bundle apart.

#5984 8 months ago

Glad my thread was able to help you guys out.

2 weeks later
#6227 8 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.
Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice

#6243 8 months ago

Hello everyone. Got some cool news (or at least I think its cool). lol
I am starting a YouTube channel that will be mostly dedicated to pinball restoration. Many of you have followed my restoration threads and I appreciate all the feedback. It's fun so I thought I would expand a little bit. I will still have my restore threads but I hope to add videos that compliment and show what and how I do things instead of just pictures.
Jurassic Park makes an appearance in one of my first videos as I show how to fix a Rottendog flipper board that I installed in my JP. Simple fix but it might help someone.
I have a few videos up and would appreciate any comments. Keep in mind that I am just starting this so I will get better. Please be gentle.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPh4fgdB6s2clf50tpaMwSg

1 week later
#6321 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Anyone replaced the rubber and plastic on the front of the t-rex? I am trying to find a suitable match and I don't really want to randomly go buying stuff on amazon.[quoted image]

I printed a black piece to replace the plastic so it is all black and blends much better. You could trim any piece of thin black plastic to replace the original.

2 weeks later
#6511 7 months ago

Just uploaded a video to my YouTube channel that shows how to make your own vinyl decals. I used the JP decals that I created for my machine as my example. I might make these available to purchase in the future but thought you might be interested since its JP.

#6515 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hey Lonzo, Good video (btw, love your pin room and collection!) I would offer a few alternatives. FYI, by no means am I saying my way is better, just different and potentially more cost effective if someone doesn't want to invest in a laminator and/or laser printer.
1) Use a photo quality inkjet printer (ideally 6 color, but 4 color will do) which offers several benefits: 1) no heat is involved, so no issues with substrate, warping, misfeeds, paper separating, etc., 2) much more vivid colors verses laser, 3) a glossier finished print verses laser, 4) and often times easier/better color matching.
2) Instead of using a laminator, you can utilize adhesive gloss laminate that is applied cold and is readily available in rolls from Amazon (I can provide link if anyone is interested).
3) For cutting, instead of scissors I use a straight edge and razor knife, but my OCD requires perfectly straight lines (I also have a couple of tools for cutting rounded corners, punching circles, etc.)
Another option that I'm exploring is a die cutting machine like Cricut, Silhouette, Brother, etc. These units have the ability to precisely cut out decals (and many other things). At this point, I've not actually had my hands on one, so I still need to test to see if they are everything they are marketed to be.

Thanks for the comments. You are ever in central Arkansas give me a shout and come play.
I understand that there are more ways to skin a cat and I am glad that you have a method that works for you. I will try and explain the reasoning behind some of my choices.
1. I find that laser offers more vivid colors than any of the inkjet printers I have used. I’m sure there are better ones out there though. I have also had some inkjet decals fade over time which I haven’t had with the laser. This might not be an issue with a higher quality ink. I also like the laser for water slide decals as you don’t have to clear them before you put them in water.
2. I have tried the self stick laminate and I just haven’t had good results from it. Maybe your brand is better than the stuff I have tried.
3. I also use other tools to cut when the decals are bigger. I probably should have mentioned that in the video. (Rookie mistake. Lol). I also use punches for holes etc. My vinyl cutter has a laser cutting option but I have not tried to use it to cut decals as I think it would be impossible to line something up that had been printed on another machine. I might try it sometime though.

Hope that made sense and I am always looking for tips to improve my work as well.

#6525 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have over 20 years experience selling, supporting, and training on production digital CMYK & CMYK+ color laser printers/presses ranging from tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars. I'm not saying that you cannot get excellent results from such systems or even a few hundred dollar laser printer, but for home use applications the right affordable photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks and OEM premium papers outperforms laser from an image quality perspective (I'm currently partial to the Epson Photo XP series). OEM inks will keep their vibrancy just as long as toner based systems, and a 6 ink color system will offer a much broader color gamut than a 4 color laser system can produce. However, as you noted you cannot skimp. I find that third party inks and papers do not perform nearly as well as the OEM supplies (I've tried a multitude of non-OEM products over the years). When it comes right down to it, for the types of things we are making either technology is a solid choice as long as you choose a quality color printer and use quality supplies (e.g. ink, toner, substrate). For waterslide decals, I agree that laser is definitely the better choice as laser typically has a more solid toner density (i.e. wet ink is more transparent that solid particle toner). Fortunately, I own both a color inkjet (Epson XP-850) and a color laser (HP 3600N) printer so I use whichever one delivers the best results on a given application for me. Anyway, just my 2 cents on the topic.
Here is the laminate I use. It is great stuff that lays smooth and has a high gloss. I have sold literally hundreds of decals using it along with having it on standup targets that have taken abuse over 2 years now and they still look brand new: amazon.com link »
As you do, I apply prior to cutting and have to be careful as once it touches anything it is stuck for good. Cut it slightly oversized, lay it on top of the graphic by rolling it on from left to right, and while doing so use a felt edged squeegee to avoid any air bubbles, then a final squeegee over the entire surface for complete adhesion. Probably about the same effort as using a traditional laminating machine, but if all a person wants to do is make a few decals then they can do so without the expense of the laminator.
I'm really curious about the automatic cutters. I'm not a fan of Cricut's software as it is online only and requires a monthly subscription (I avoid reoccurring monthly services if at all possible). The Silhouette offers locally installed software, and both units have a feature called "Print and Cut". From what I can discern, you design your graphics in whatever application you like, export to a supported format (typically a JPEG - lossy, but you can always export with minimum compression), import into the cutter software, then manually and/or automatically generate the cut lines (these can even have bleeds if you like). You then print the image from the application which applies a registration mark on the page. When you put this into the cutter, it reads the registration mark and from there so it knows the relative positioning of where the cuts need to be. For adhesive vinyl, it can even just score the top layer for peeling off the decal leaving the surround material behind. Again, this all sounds great and looks easy and accurate in the videos, but up to this point I've hesitated to spend a few hundred bucks to see how it really works. I need to find a friend or neighbor that has one of these things so I can actually test and play with it.

I might have to try some of the self adhesive laminate that you refer too. The stuff I have used is from Office Depot and I don’t get any bubbles but when you look at the reflection it just looks like it has a blotch type pattern. I have had some success with some Mylar sheets I have bought from Marco for drop targets. And I actually cut them out with my vinyl cutter. I designed the exact size in my cutter software and then cut them and applied and they did look good.
Over the next couple weeks I guess I need to try and figure out the contour cutting because my cutter can do it but I have never really had the “need” to do it. If I could figure it out it would sure make selling decals easier as the hand cutting is what has kept me from doing it.

Just wondering if you go to TPF and if we have met down there at the show?

#6532 7 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

While I'd never do this myself, after seeing your instruction cards, I'd love to see a whole machine worn and weathered. Like it'd been on the island exposed for a number of years.

Just look at the before pictures in my Restoration thread.....Done.

#6571 7 months ago

This will probably be the last post about my Youtube channel as I don't want to risk upsetting people. In my latest video there is a segment where I talk about all my JP mods if anyone is interested.

#6587 6 months ago

Ok. I guess I lied. I will let you know about one more video I just uploaded. It tell you how to modify your Jurassic Park or any Data East or system 11 game to turn the backbox off during gameplay and get rid of the backbox reflections in the playfield glass.

#6605 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just installed a Comet Pinball glare eliminator on my DMD, and really like it. I've been using Pinball Life Bent Plastics on my pins, but finding them a little bothersome both during game play and every time I need to slide the glass out (somehow this seems to happen a lot).
Anyway, since I have a ColorDMD I could not affix it to the actual DMD itself, and no way I was just sticking in on the outside of the speaker panel. A quick chat with Comet support, and they told me that their filters where non-directional and that I could apply it to the inside of the speaker panel. So, I removed the panel, removed the DMD, cleaned the inside (and out) of the DMD area on the speaker panel, applied the Glare Eliminator, put everything back together, turned the DMD brightness up to 9 (as high as it would go) and voila! No glare but without the big black bent plastic piece - I love it!
If you are on the fence, I highly encourage you to add one for your JP to your next Comet order.
https://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm[quoted image]

I agree. I mentioned it in my Mod video. Best $15 you can spend on an easy mod.

#6608 6 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Just got the actor that plays Dr. Hammond, th e actor who plays Timmy and the woman that plays Claire from Fallen Kingdom to sign the back glass of my original JP...Along with some stunt doubles. I am beyond estatic! Kinda hard to see in the pic.[quoted image]

You might be confused. The actor that played Dr Hammond died in 2014.

#6615 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Lonzo, I thought I remembered you posting something on how to modify a new eject shield, but I'm having trouble locating it. My issue is that the ball sometimes gets hung at the bottom of the T-Rex pit eject shield (i.e. just short of rolling fully into the depression so that it is detected). I've fully cut and sanded the two tabs that stickup and they are flush and flat to the rest of the surface. The issue is that the eject shield there is wider than at the other points around the circumference of the hole. Kind of frustrating because play stops and I have to bump the machine several times (often I tilt) to get the ball to fall forward into the hole.
When I look at the original yellow one, it looks like that this part was somehow ground down to make the lip less deep in order for the ball to not get caught on the front (i.e. like with some kind of ball shaped bit or something). Anyway, was wondering if you could tell me what you did to prevent this and/or point me to the existing post if you explain it there.[quoted image]

In my Restoration thread I show how I cut rheblittle tabs you mentioned off and how I polished it so you can’t see where they were. The only thing I can think of is I can’t tell if you sanded and polished where the tabs were. If there is any bit of those tabs left no mater how small, I can see the ball catching on them. I have never had this happen so I don’t have a known fix. Just thinking outside the box, I might try and put a small washer underneath between the shield and the wood. That would “lower” the shield by a little and possibly allow the ball to fall in the hole. Of course you would have to make sure it doesn’t interfere with the TRex picking the ball up.

#6617 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for the feedback. There is no trace of the tabs by feel - as smooth as can be. Your washer idea might work (I can 3D print one the right size, and even maybe print it slanted), or maybe just a couple of washers with the two rearmost screws would create enough backwards slant. I'll think through it a little more and see what I can do. Hopefully, I'm explaining the issue clearly in that the deck where the tabs once existed is deeper (front to back) than what is on the original which seems to have been modified. Basically, it is creating a platform for the ball to fully rest on in some instances (I'd say maybe 1-5 times - enough to be annoying). It may just so happen that based upon how I have my pin leveled from front to back, this areas is also level or slightly leans forward enough to "catch" the ball (maybe 1/2 a degree lower on the back might fix it). Initially, I thought maybe it was the brand of shield I bought, but when looking at the one in my Getaway it is exactly the same, and upon close inspection of the JP one it has obviously been modified.

That interesting. I have never had an issue in 750+ games. I would have to go back and look at my pictures to see if the original looked any different since I don’t have it anymore. I don’t remember there being anything different. Send a close up without the ball so I can see the difference of how it looks compared to the edge of the wood hole.

#6618 6 months ago

Only other thing I can think of is the angle of the playfield is higher than mine maybe.

#6627 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, here are some pics. As you can see the platform on the new red one is substantially deeper than the old yellow, and the yellow looks like it has been purposefully modified to achieve this (I assume by the factory). FYI, I double checked and the original one used in the boat dock at back right of playfield is exactly the same as the yellow T-Rex original.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get your new ones? Just wondering if diffferent sources have different ones. I would try and take that pad off if you cAn and see how it works. I put a little custom cut piece of Mylar in the same place. Protects it and can’t see it.

#6632 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Yep, not the same with me either. I replaced that switch, bent the switch arm, it all works.
My balls look to get hung up at the edge from the trough rail to the vuk bracket.
My game started as an issue with just the 6 ball multi ball and now i have issues all the time kicking the ball into the shooter lane. It will work for a few games and then stop and make the game unplayable.
Ive cleanrd and changed the coil sleeve on the release mech as well.
Nothing seems to work.

I’m not exactly sure if it is the same problem or not but I had a trough issue when I was restoring my game. The bracket that was holding the coil was bent and causing the ball to be fired more straight up instead of an angle. I never had trouble with the ball actaully getting to the shooter lane but if the bracket was bent a little more, I could see it not making it. I talk about it in the post below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/9#post-4161135

#6641 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Either Marco's or PBL (don't remember which since I order from both depending upon what I'm needed at the time). From the images, both are the same (the ledge runs the full depth of the tabs). I can easily change out the black piece with clear mylar, so happy to give that a try. Might wax the entire area also to slicken things up a bit to see if that helps. Also, I know it is a pain, but next time you have your JP glass off would you mind taking a close-up pic of your front-to-back level under the left playing card?

Here is my level. The manual says 6.5 degrees. It appears over time. Mine has adjusted to 6.7 and I confirmed that with my pin app.
206F0923-A7A5-4E3B-84E2-9D2614292D8B (resized).jpeg

#6642 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

I have a couple ideas. First of all I will try and explain the way that I understand the problem and if I get it wrong, please correct me and we will go from there.

1. In certain conditions the Trough ball Lock is not releasing the balls into the VUK to be kicked into the lane. It seems that the conditions for both of you may be slightly different.
2. The VUK will keep firing even though there is no ball there.

I am just going to start throwing ideas out there based on my experience. None of it may help but we are going to give it a shot.

First of all there is a spacer between the playfield and the Trough Ball Lock (TBL). I cant 100% say that is it factory because it is not mentioned in the parts manual but my game will not function without it. I wonder how I know that.

Dscf4946 (resized).jpg

Without that spacer installed, There is not enough room for the ball to pass to the VUK. Now a old tired mech with work out parts and a worn coil stop may allow a ball to pass without it installed. I think one of you mentioned that its when the trough is nearly empty that the TBL will not feed. Lets say that when the TBL fires, there is just a small amount of contact but there is enough "push" from the balls behind it heading downhill that the ball will go trough. When there is no push, the ball may not make it through.
By the same token, If there is just enough contact, the problem may happen sometimes and not others.

As far as the VUK firing with no ball. That sounds like the VUK switch activating and that can happen.

I have a question: Is the TBL firing constantly like the VUK or does it just fire once to release the ball and then the VUK keeps firing?

On your switch test, How much movement does it take for the VUK switch to activate? If it is so close to the edge that just touching it makes it activate then a coil firing can create enough vibration for the switch to activate.

Well just throwing some ideas out. If I got some information wrong let me know and I will try and help some more.

#6647 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, here is what I've found. I fixed the screw tip sticking up, and now the ball does not get hung up nearly as easily. I guess just that little bit was enough to kill the momentum and/or catch the ball as it rolled past even with the plastic piece on top of it.
It does still hang, but not nearly as easily. I tried getting it stuck by hand, and I would say maybe 5% of the time verses what it did in the video. Also, I played a real game at it did get stuck 1 of 4 times I hit the T-Rex pit, but it was much simpler to bump it loose (i.e. didn't have to tilt the pin) and into the hole verses before.
I think I'm happy for now (we'll see how long that lasts), and I appreciate all of the support and ideas.

Good deal. I was just getting ready to upload a video of mine. I can't get the ball to sit up there even when placed there. But I also fully restored my pit so there are no wear areas either. I saw your screw hole damage. Very common on this game because someone sees a screw missing on the bottom and adds it not knowing what is above. Sounds like it is working better. I would just sand that area down nice and smooth. Might try putting a piece of mylar down if it will stick.

#6648 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

I think we are on the right track. I tried twice to recreate the issue and it failed both times. During those times, I just let every ball drain. No issues with System Failure. The third time, I played it like normal. The problem shows up after all six balls are in play and the trough is empty. The game does not release a ball into the VUK but continues to fire.

SO on that part where the VUK started firing. Did the TBL ever activate to let a ball through or did the VUK just start firing?

#6663 6 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I tested this again tonight and here is what I found. After chaos mode begins and all six balls are cleared from the trough, there seems to be an issue when three balls are in play and the other three drain. The vuk will fire once the three balls are in the trough but the TBL will never activate again until the other three balls drain and the game moves onto the next ball. I hope that makes sense. I can upload a video if that is helpful.
Thanks

I wonder if anyone with original code can test this mode to see if it behaves the same.

#6683 6 months ago

Glad you got it fixed.

1 month later
#6850 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

I've created a backlit box for the "When dinosaurs ruled the Earth" banner plastic.
Tomorrow I will test it, then will share the design for free.[quoted image]

I printed something exactly like that. Worked great, you will like it.

#6854 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

The truth is that I have seen your thread about a year ago, and I knew I have to do something similar. The design is very limited, the shape of banner plastic and the side brackets will determine the look of the box.
Hopefully heat won't be an issue, the box is fully closed by the plastic.

I’ve never had any issues with heat. I actually printed mine solid and then drilled holes for the screws once I had it finished. Can’t see it at all and it keeps the light from flooding the playfield.

#6866 5 months ago

Pinsound is a great board but not cheap. Most “Home made” sound packages are ok but I’ve never heard one that would make me spend the money. But JP is different. The sound package is professionally done and sounds amazing. As said earlier, it changes the game.
If the money is available, Pinsound for JP is a no brainer.

#6870 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Love when people say this. Without new code, no it doesnt. It changes nothing about how the game plays. All it changes is the music, and it changes it to a much slower dramatic tone. Boring. Sorry, just dont agree.
You can get better sound (than stock) with cheaper methods. There was a decent thread from the korn I think who went through a bunch of options.

Of course it doesn’t change the game “play”, it changes the “experience”. Pardon me
It’s not just music, it’s the entire sound package.
I worked with the board you are referring to for months and it never worked and very little support. His JP “sounds” like the pinsound but if you listen, it plays a ton of sounds at the wrong time.

2 weeks later
#6961 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Your Barbasol can has me thinking. I know others are working on a 3D printed version, but what if it was designed in such a way to replace the red flasher dome in the back left by the dock (seems to be the most logical place to put one)?
I think I may take a crack at designing one. The mod would just be the can and won't have the hidden embryo vials exposed, but will be illuminated by flasher bulb. Would anyone else have interested in such a mod?

I think that would be pretty cool

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