Trying to fix this for someone and they left flipper had the leaf completely out of whack. Fixed it and then it snapped off completely. Anyone know the PN for JUST the leaf that broke off on the stack? It's the longer one that is engaged by the rod on the flipper mechanism. I have some spare switches from Williams flipper rebuild kits but tbh I've never looked at a DE machine prior to this. If I can use those, then I will solder them in as opposed to ordering anything.

On the right side that leaf isn't long enough to properly engage the rod at all--the rod goes past it rather than being held by it. Presumably it should be the same length as the one that broke on the left, right?

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Sorry, noticing the right side has no wires run to the stack.. Surely that can't be right... Right?!

I guess it would make sense if the top was wired with proper switch and the lower was just slaved off of it, it just seems backwards from what I'm used to. I didn't actually look at the upper flipper at all.. if that's correct, I'm thinking I'll just pull this switch out altogether.. Not like it's actually doing anything.

Yeah, all of that makes sense based on everything I've ever seen on any of the machines I've ever owned. Just didn't know if there was something different with JP (I assumed not, and that it was just not set up... Right). Actually, the left flipper didn't work at all with the EOS not closed at rest.

I'll take my soldering iron and make it 'right' when I go fix it this weekend.

Thanks for the pics / confirmation.

Finally got back to the JP I was tasked with fixing. New left switch installed (leaf broke while adjusting last time) but every time I left it as is the red rod meant to separate the leafs would go on past the longer bottom leaf and hyperextend it from that point forward (at that point the red rod would actually be on the OTHER side of the stack. Ended up going BACK to the stupid zip tie temporarily to absolutely confirm it would stay together and not come apart, then gave the longer leaf a slight bend to keep it from contacting the rod at all.

The switch on the opposite side lower flipper (which is in no way wired, and I'm not really sure how it should be--attaching pics of the upper right flipper as well as the bottom ones to verify) does the same thing with hyperextending the switch stack the wrong way but it actually ends up making the flipper action clunky like it's got a bad sleeve or something (which it doesn't) so I gave the longer bottom leaf a slight bend to keep it from physically hanging up the flipper action.

It all 'works' again but this feels a bit...wrong.. And I would really like to make his machine correct rather than just letting him continue on forever like this. Thoughts? I apologize in advance if some of this is really, really basic stuff and I'm just not getting it. I think I'm still a bit flustered by how DE apparently did things vs all of my Bally/Williams stuff.

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Gah, I didn't use the right switches, because what was in there to begin with was wrong and I didn't catch it. Completely my fault. Yes, I'd love to buy those switches from you, PM coming.

Thank you! I imagine that will completely alleviate the issue with the hyperextension, so then I just need to resolve the wiring fiasco he has going on.

Also, random, but how hard is it to change out the GI without taking half of the topside down? His machine is CRIMINALLY dark (and made even worse by the fact that he has SUPER bright no-lense LEDs in the back box, completely full). I can't see crap when I play the thing! I told him to remove about half of his back box LEDs for now and we would correct it with some color matched bulbs when I did the GI. Warm white, cool white, or sunlight white? Comet 2SMD are always my choice.

Thank you guys for all the help..I'm certainly learning some nuances with DE pins on this one.

-Jordan

Warm white is my favorite too, for sure.

Can someone show me what type of post is supposed to be by the left most pop, near Jeff Goldblum's head? The JP I'm working on seems to be getting the ball stuck over there a lot, I'm wondering if he has the right post there. Is it supposed to be a star post?

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Also, the metal 'tunnel' (excuse the poor terminology) under the T-Rex head..is that supposed to move, at all? I was called out to address two balls being stuck in the T-Rex head and it turned out that that piece was rotated and therefore jammed the movement of the balls through the lower plastic ramp. Moved it back over and everything worked fine and I couldn't reproduce the problem. Seems like it's pop riveted in place on the sides that did feel secure?

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Sorry, last question of the night.. are the majority of the bulbs (both GI and controlled/inserts) bayonet? Trying to make sure I'm properly stocked prior to next week when I go LED this thing. Seems like he had lots of wedges but an earlier post here was saying the game is primarily bayonet. Help?

This is a huge help, thank you! I really just wanted to make sure his machine wasn't going to eat up my entire bulb stock on any one color. With 14 red bayonets I definitely wanted to jump on another 25pk while they were on sale. Other than white, which I should have plenty of stock of (I added 4 more 25pks of sunlight bayonet) I think I should still have plenty of stock afterwards.

I probably could have just left it be and been fine, but now is obviously a better time to buy than say in February.

Thinking I'm just going to do the same. Did you end up using one long rubber between the two posts and the rail or did you use individual rubbers on the posts and let the rail be exposed?

Any suggestions on this one? I think I'm good to go on the post near Jeff's head (going to starpost it) and I should be squared away on doing the LED conversion--I'm well stocked and ready to do that, dreading the desoldering of some of the GI in order to avoid doing a full topside teardown, but it'll be fine.

But I'm definitely unsure about this piece, if it should have any movement at all..and if not, how to at least prevent it from moving even if it's just a quick temporary fix until I can offer him a more long term 'proper' fix.

Went to wrap up the LED job on this today and I just can't get the backbox to not glare like a SOB. I ended up putting just a few bulbs, and all incandescent, back in for the 'JURASSIC PARK' lettering. I don't like the color (I much prefer the cool white effect but that's way too bright); going to order a few more red flex bulbs for the top and I'm going to put a couple of spotlights on the playfield.. is that the best way to tackle the glare? How did you all light your backglass?

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