(Topic ID: 80267)
Linked Games
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
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Quoted from PinballAir:I will bet cutting the decals took some time.
Did you do it by hand or did you do it with a machine?
I did it with a machine, 28' vinyl cutter. Laying the yellow layer was a PITA. my wife recently got into crafty stuff with a Cricut so she was a big help with this.
Color sanded and buffed. I've only done one side and the front so far. I may add another few coats of clear on the other side. I did not get the decals sanded completely flat, kinda scary which is why I want to add clear to the other side. I'm no professional, this has been a big learning experience but something that I've wanted to do.... Cause shiney is so cool.
1 month later
Quoted from Chalkey:Wow! Spraymax?
No. I sprayed this out of my Iwata W-400 gun.
https://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/finish-1/clearcoats/finish-1-ultimate-overall-clearcoat
Quoted from Lonzo:That’s the same clear I use.
Very nice work.
Do you find it to be a PITA to polish? Next time that I spray it, I'm going to try to polish at 24 hrs otherwise it seems far to hard.
Quoted from Lonzo:Yeah. I’m not a professional and I don’t have anything to compare it too but it takes some work but have never really had a problem. I do my cabinets and playfields. I usually spray flat so I have a pretty good finish to start with.
I did this last coat flat. Just seems like the pigtails from sanding are hard to buff out. This last coat, I started hand sanding with 1500 then DA 2000, 2500 & 3000 grit before I switched to the buffer. I had to work to get the pigtails out which had to be no more coarse than 2000 grit. I'll probably try a different clear after I run thru this gallon that I have.
Quoted from woody24:If those are brand new replacement guides, you may have some people wanting some of their own as those tabs are prone to breaking. I had to have mine re-welded.
These are new cut from 304 stainless steel mirror polished. Prototypes will be on my machine then I'll start taking orders. TZ & Met to follow.
Quoted from kcZ:These are new cut from 304 stainless steel mirror polished.
[quoted image]
Old and new
IMG_20180918_213412 (resized).jpg 2 months later
Quoted from Neal_W:The box in front of the T-REX spotlight with the red lamp and 'shoot t-rex' decals is missing. Looks nice without it. (and spot light hood added)
The T-REX paddock looks chromed, and no decals.
The Raptor shot ball rails and other rails appear chromed also.
The pop caps are detailed with black paint.
Colored post rubbers.
Did I spot it??
Lol... Probably spotted more than I did. I hated that Trex box. Flasher is behind Trex via Comet matrix strip. Red lamp is in Trex mouth. And you see the spotlight. I was torn on the paddock area and thought polished looked good.
Polished stainless at the Raptor shot... Actually all the rails are polished now. I'm thinking about producing these to sell. Those pop bumper cars were from Marco, I thought they were original and mine were faded either way I think they look good.
Quoted from Chalkey:The Newman one is the best. Get that.
What does that one look like? I was tempted to remove Newman when I restored my playfield but maybe I need to embrace the Newman.
Quoted from Bugsy:What is with the LEDs behind the translite? You're not serious with those colours are you?
You don't like the Trex with a dotted eye?
Quoted from Whitewater:Can you please post a better version
I cannot say that I have a better but that is not cool... Note that I'm not a fan of Neumann.
2 months later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I made a mistake. I LED'd my machine and it looks fabulous, but I got the wrong type of bulbs for the flashers. They work, but they are 8 SMD flashers and it's like looking at a camera flash every time they go off. They are seizure inducing. I replaced most of them with the original bulbs. What type of flashers do you recommend putting in this game?
Also, I'm thinking about putting in a Jeep Mod. Do you know if there is a version that will interact with the flashers?
Put in a raptor figure above the kickback and am waiting on my loop combo mod (comes with the machine).
Really loving the game so far.
I did the same thing with putting LED flashers in and not liking the blinding brightness. I popped off half of the diodes on each flasher.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:LOL! Thats awesome...
No kidding, that's what I did. I did not have any 4 smd flashers so I tried to create my own and it worked.
Just take a very little flat screwdriver and pop them off. Much easier than stocking all sorts of flashers
3 weeks later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Thank you sir. Switch on order.
I thought that you have that new style switch from Davi?
Quoted from Davi:He has a problem about switch above upkicker coil (number 4).
His 6-pack ball trough switch assembly is fine [quoted image]
Thanks for the clarification.
1 month later
Davi's trough opto board survived the weekend at MGC. Not that I had any doubts, just want to help anyone who may doubt it's durability.
Quoted from winteriscoming:I've got one of the opto boards on the way from Davi. What was the shipping time for those in the US and did it require a signature?
Quite fast. A week or two tops from what I recall. I was worried that the board would not arrive in time for MGC but it can a week or so beforehand.
I'm pretty sure Newman is my postal service driver. He once left an undeliverable note cause the "gate was closed". To this day, I have never seen a gate at my driveway.
Quoted from woody24:Ha! 2 weeks ago I had a delivery from Amazon. Around here Amazon has their own "Uber" type of service for delivering their packages. I got a notice that the package had been delivered, and it was "handed directly to the resident." Wasn't me. I look outside, and don't see anything on my doorstep. I started wondering which of my neighbors he delivered it to. Then I check, it was in the mailbox.
We have the same for most Amazon deliveries except the take a picture of the package although I've never had one handed to me.
Quoted from woody24:Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.
How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?
Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.[quoted image][quoted image]
I had the same problem... I drilled both holes bigger. I just grabbed a bit that was bigger, nothing special. Start just bigger then go up until it fits
Quoted from woody24:Did you still use the original screws? That was one concern I had, that the hole would be too big for the screw to hold
Yes, original screws. Just don't drill the holes larger than the screw heads.
Quoted from woody24:Some of it was shorting out at least. I think it had poked through the 3d printed backing. I unmounted it and let it hang in the air. Now they all work except for the 5th one. It's always on. I tried bending one of the leds, but didn't do anything. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Once I figure it out, I'll put some kapton tape on the back of it to prevent any shorting. It's close to working.
I had the leads poke thru the backing. It started out acting flakey then I would consistently not get the LEDs to light up regardless... Pulled the board and noticed holes in the plastic. To fix it, I cut a piece of of felt to place between the board and the backer. Later Davi sent me the file, I have a 3d printer and I printed a thicker version.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Installed the trough opto board and it all seems to work fine except the far left LED isn't lighting. In test mode, all six balls are recognized and if I back that final ball up with my finger, the test will count back to five balls, then back to six balls as I let the ball go back into its resting spot. In game, it loses count of the balls during multiball. I've soldered and resoldered the connections and tried adjusting the opto for that ball, so what's the fix here?
Hmm...nevermind, I guess. I fixed it by loosening the screw next to it by two turns. NICE.
Your LED leads are poking thru the plastic protector. I had a very similar issue.
1 week later
Quoted from hawkeyexx:Main ramp and a subway ramp.
I'm going with Chitown on this one. Upper is a ramp while the lower is a Subway.
1 month later
Quoted from onemoresean:How's the quality of the gamerwraps inner art?[quoted image]
I like the quality of the Stern side art on my Munsters much more than this set which I have on my Jurassic Park. JP feels like a big sticker whike the Stern art is more rigid and scratch resistant. I'm very careful raising the playfield on JP and there are already marks.
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