Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kba78.
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Quoted from ypurchn:I 2nd this count. I verified this vs what I pulled out and what I put in when I LED mine a few weeks back. The manual is way off. I didn't do the start button or smart missle button and got these same numbers. Add 10% for brand new bulbs not working + a few spares + samples for other games.
Does this count include the bottom row of the backbox?
Those were originally 455 flashers
Has anyone ever taken apart a left/right gearbox? Or at least greased one really good. Mine works, but seems sluggish
For the heck of it, jiggle the connector on the upper left corner of the PPb board in the backbox. Also check the connector on the upper right corner of the power supply. Both will have same color wires
Is the whole upper half of the playfield out?
The gi connectors are j5 on the PPb and cn8 on the power supply. Give fuses are f1- f 4 on the PPb and are 5 amp
The bulbs that look to be out in your pictures are general illumination, not controlled lamps. So they should be on all the time. Am I correct in saying that?
No problem, I was just going to tell you to check f-1 as I just verified on my game that it was the fuse for the back playfield. Good to go
No problem at all. I have owned a bunch of data east, so I am pretty familiar with them. I agree with djreddog, Automotive store would be your best bet
Jurassic Park t- Rex.
I had mine apart about a year ago, so I am doing this by memory.
Around the dino, there is a blue plastic, got to take it off(3 screws, I think)
Underneath, unplug 4 connectors for dino assembly
Remove plastic subway ramp
I believe there are 4 screws holding the dino assembly to bottom of playfield, remove those and pull the whole thing out from the bottom.
It may seem overwhelming, but it's pretty simple
With all that in hand you can then remove both
motors and clean everything.
Hope this helps
Yes, the t- Rex itself does not need to be removed. Just the collar plastic with three screws. Whole assembly should pull out. only thing I don't remember is, if you have to let t- Rex bend a little and shut game to stop him from going all the way down.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Yes, I did check the matrix, and everything else works perfectly. I have movement in all directions. The main issue is that the motor is running non-stop, so we are leaning towards a faulty transistor.
I believe it is Q25&Q27 on the CPU for dino motor relay. Check those, if you need some guidance pm me
Man, I agreed with winteriscoming about Q27. I personally would have started with that also. oh well, you are up and running!!!!!
Hi Mr tantrum,
There is a nut and carriage bolt in front, by lockdown bar and a wood screw in back, under the head. Remove those. Then all that is holding it on is double sided tape. Pretty strong stuff, but I use a thin, somewhere sharp, putty knife and just work it down.
Aircraft stripper will take off powder coating and Rust-Oleum textured black is a quite nice match. The I use 3m Auto trim tape to re attach. Hope this helps
Run a jumper wire from both points. That trace is clearly broken. It will be fine if there is no underlying reason it did that in the first place.
Quoted from Mikew492:Found out it’s called an extension spring with part no 265-5017-01. Currently out of stock everywhere I’ve looked except in Australia. Wondering is it’s worth the $20 and wait to order from AU...
Can always stores locally see what the have that would work the same
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi.
Today we (I and my wife) went into our game room to playwith our pinballs.
One of them is a Jurassic Park DE.
We turned it on and all lights were lighting, the display was off, the pin was not starting his program.
After about one minute, the display turned slowly on and the pin started to make the test with the dyno.
Finished the test, I started the game pushing the start button but no sound was playing.
After 1/2 minute the voice started to play and after some seconds the music too.
It seems the pin works right only when.it is "warm".
What do I have to look to, to avoid this problem ?
Leaking capacitors on your power supply. Some research in pinside and you can find which ones need to be replaced. Or just buy a new rottendog or xpin power supply
Here what you can try, jumper the two lugs on the end of stroke switch. See if your flipper has full power
And works ever time
Quoted from Skyemont:Send a pic if u can
Hope these help
IMG_20200414_140941 (resized).jpgIMG_20200414_140956 (resized).jpgIMG_20200414_141026 (resized).jpgQuoted from RobDutch:NEED HELP :O
Q4 on the PPB keeps shorting (so Raptor Pit activates on startup) and I don't know why.
I replaced Q4 and its diodes on the board and coil, and also made sure the boards are getting their voltages (replaced some caps).
Don't know what to look for now
Anyone ever had the same?
There is a pre driver on the CPU that probably shorted
Looking at the schematic, it seems to be Q30.
Check that for a short
Not sure about it being intermittent.
I have had them test fine, but replaced them anyway, because they are cheap, and it's fixed the problem. Seems kinda strange, but it has happened to me
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Needville, TX
London, ON