I got all crafty and painted my own, same colors as the logo on the side of the cabinet, so nothing fancy. Then my topper is about 1" too tall to fit under my basement ceiling
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I got all crafty and painted my own, same colors as the logo on the side of the cabinet, so nothing fancy. Then my topper is about 1" too tall to fit under my basement ceiling
I used this kit as my order qty and sizes
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/705
I have the 2 rubbers on the left side above and below the pop bumpers to go, and I have 2 rubbers left from what I ordered so it's really close. Not sure if they are both 1.25" but that's what I have left with when I swapped what was existing.
Quoted from Geteos:Well that JP I picked up has a problem with the T rex. It does the chomp but doesn’t move side to side or lower it’s head to eat the ball. I can hear the motors working and what sounds like gears grinding. Is there an easy way to access the gearboxes for this guy?
There is many things that could be the cause. Many threads as well, definitely try testing the switches first before assuming it's a gearbox
Here is one discussion
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-help
Mine had the lack of side to side issue. You can go into the tests menu and try and move the head using the flipper buttons. My problem ended up being a bad relay like mentioned in that thread I linked.
Also the gearbox may end up being bad but a new one is 199usd so worth looking at loose connections etc first Imo. Also keep in mind the motor pulses so not the smoothest running to start with.
Quoted from koops:He just shipped an order I put at the start of December (tspp kit).
Check your local parts distributors they may already have some in stock, otherwise just put in an order and wait.
Sweet that means my 2 sets JP and STTNG that I ordered December 5th should be coming soon. In all fairness he told me they would take a long time, but they are worth it to me
The reason the up/down works but not the side to side, is because there is 2 separate motors to control side to side and up/down
What you have pictured is a relay, which allows the changing direction of the side to side motor. I always think easy as that's my skill level, try reseating the connections to the motor itself. Or the plug pictured
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Has anyone got a link to a list of the bulb types and number of bulbs to do an LED conversion for JP?
Check the key posts at the top of the page, there is a list saved there
Quoted from pduffy:Just had the code in my JP updated to 6.0 and now TREX is not going up/down to pick up ball. Anyone know why? It works fine in test mode which makes it odd.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
Is the T-Rex set to eat balls in the new code by default? I can't remember, but check the adjustments if it turned on
I'm not at home to check this, but to me in the last picture the metal guide is bent incorrectly. That looks to be altering the ball trajectory and causing sdtm drains. When the ball comes around it should be tight against that rail, and direct the ball so it can be hit with the upper flipper. Really the rail should be following the same as the playfield black line below it
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, no it isn’t. Those two sockets are stapled to the underside and have metal leads connecting them, not to mention very difficult to get to. Going to have to do it from the topside.[quoted image]
I just changed those light this past weekend, I had the large plastic over the captive ball removed anyway, then unscrewed the back screw of the metal guide rail on the right side of the raptor pit. from there a easy rotation and my wife's smaller fingers to change those lights
Just thinking with your pinsound headphones output you could add a bluetooth adapter, then send the sound to a another source in your basement (IE speakers in the ceiling). If you want an even more immersive way to play
Another place you can buy some other cabinet reproduction decals is from:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/00579-data-east-warning-decals
Although I have to say the solid decal across the bar is pretty sweet looking
Quoted from weasel671:I'm looking for someone to either make or sell me an East Dock sign mod for my JP. timspinballmods.com doesn't seem to have them anymore.
I want to say Mr_Tantrum makes/sells those now
Does someone have an extra ramp they are willing to sell? Can be scratched, have broken pieces etc. Pm me please if you do
I had JP for a few months before I installed Cliffy's. I don't notice any bounce backs or the metal catching the balls etc, all 3 fit flush to the playfield as expected. I did have significant wear previously and probably got quite a few balls into the scoops because of the wear. I saw the same complaints before putting the protectors on, so always had that comparison in the back of my mind when first Installed.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Almost there! Missing a few parts, gotta get that Marco order in today.[quoted image]
Don't forget to take the protective masking off BOTH sides of those new plastics you have there.
Lookin good!!
Whichever version or all that come to be built, I am a fan of the hidden bulb lighting the decal from below. Just looks more complete Imo.
Quoted from harryhoudini:So close I can taste it. I'm gonna let that ramp sit a while.. I used some plastic "adhesive" made by "weld-on" that is supposed to melt the plastic and bond it permanently. Then I am going to back it up with some fillable/instant cure super glue (its a two part system with a dry granular powder that you put in place and then just drop some super glue on it). It is either that or epoxy.. not 100% sure. Maybe even just some hot glue.. those hemostats are so awesome, thanks Marco. Wish I had another pair.
I don't think that part of the ramp gets hit hard, I think the diverter does most of the work. Hopefully it's a solid fix. I tried to see if someone would make the ramp but the guy who is making ramps in small batches doesn't have an oven big enough to do it. I assume there isn't a huge demand so paying a vacuum form shop to do it is probably crazy expensive based on my investigation in to cyclone ramps back in the day.
[quoted image][quoted image]
If you used weld-on 3,4 or 16 (thicker) that should hold well. You can also back it up with a UV cured adhesive, I tried one from Home Depot that actually worked quite well for a ramp for another guy.
Speaking of JP ramps I will be looking at building a mold and pulling parts for sale. Won't get a chance to work on the mold until Mid July and hopefully parts by fall. I was looking for a damaged ramp to use as a basis for a mold, but since I can't find one I am going to use my good one a the basis of the mold. Fingers crossed I won't break mine I have a vacuum former at work that will fit the JP ramp and subway nicely.
That said if anyone has a damaged/cracked/broken ramp they are willing to let go for the sake of building new ramps send me a PM
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I already have one, but wanted to let everyone know this is a great mod. I realize there are already LEDs above the scoops to direct you to a required shot, but having the scoops glow red makes it much more apparent (not to mention it's just cool having the scoops glow red).
Are these lights tied into the lights above the hole and flash at the sametime, or are they just tied into the GI?
Quoted from winteriscoming:JP and not JW?
They can go start their own Stern club, then! No way Stern puts out a better JP than what we've got in the DE version.
I have the same opinion about a potential Stern release, however I have some $$ set aside and space for 1 more pin if I'm wrong
Quoted from onemoresean:PM me if you have a scoop mod set you want to sell, thanks.[quoted image]
Something wrong with buying straight from the guy that makes them?
https://loopcombo.com/products/jurassic-park-scoop-light-set
They are a great addition, and I can't see many people removing them once they are on. Heck I got them sent to me from New Zealand, faster than Marco can send me a shipment
Actually it's Friday
But maybe some of your family has small hands to get into those tight spaces to to help diagnose the repair I know i get my wife to help me out
Quoted from Davi:Looking for measurement help. What is the X-Y size of airball protector at the green standup target?[quoted image]
x = 13mm
y = 35mm
Quoted from newovad:Anyone can sign up to get the ability to make key posts. At one point, I read through this entire thread, all 7,000 posts. I tried to key post the things that seemed important that weren’t already marked. I’ve marked the previous post as a key, so there are now 57 in the thread. Hope it helps someone in the future.
Awesome, Thanks!!
I just had something similar. For me it was the leaf switch at the flipper button needed adjusting, it had gotten out of alignment.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Can someone shoot a pic of the servicec switches? Is there 2 or 3? Never had a de oin before, trying to set game on free play.
There is 2 buttons, very basic explanation
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-can-anyone-explain-the-data-east-service-menu
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Thanks. Been reading up on it. wondering why it's not an in and out switch , they are calling it an up and down had me confused fr a bit all good now, I think, thx for your quick reply
You are not the first one to be confused by the 2 buttons. Once you get the hang of it and a second Data East machine it will be easy to navigate
Quoted from JohnJN:PM'd
That would be the next option for me if I can't find the factory part.
thanks for your help all!
You might want to try asking in this thread as well
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/canada-pinball-parts-wtblts-official-thread
But I agree shipping with Marco sucks to Canada. Something that was $7.00 to ship to my buddy in Nevada was $55.00 to get it to me direct from Marco. Pinball life is somewhat better.
Quoted from 03whtlightning:I just recently got into pinball. DEJP was the first Pin I purchased. I recently had the armor and wire forms powder coated. I think it turned out pretty nice and I’m happy with the results. Let me know what you guys think?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks really good. I am a real fan of the green wire forms
Quoted from Davi:Thanks - my pleasure.
I really wanted to love this pin, but can't feel the desire to keep it. Maybe the lack of flow or the strange flipper behaviour? I don't know.
Same happened with my Funhouse.
My Jurassic Park was on the chopping block, until I rebuilt the flippers. Was a total game changer, no way I'm selling mine now.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Could it be that?
I traced the wires to this... Its a relay?
When it works it clicks when i switch from left to right.
If it doesn't it doesn't click.
Sometimes it seems like pushing on it with my finger makes it click over and motor changes direction [quoted image]
I had a similar problem and changed that relay, problem was fixed after that for me
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:With regards to pin2dmd and the jp colourisation, does it work with 6.0 or are their issues?
Works just fine for me. I honestly like the colors better than the colordmd I used to have in its place.
I went with a separate power supply method on 2 DE games. I would say 70 - 80% of the hum was eliminated. It went from really noticeable, to has to be really quiet in the room and you hear it.
There is usually enough slack in the wires to lift it out and set it on a table, chair, etc beside the cabinet
Quoted from ravve:OK, sitting and trying to adjust the Trex switches now. Would appreciate a quick answer: The up/down motor should only spin one direction, right? This means that it goes all the way around (circle movement) between the up and down switches, not forth and back between them?
So every time one of the switches is triggered, the motor has spun 360 degrees (well not the motor itself, but the "pin" that triggers the switch). Or am I wrong?
Can anyone verify my statement PLZ?
Thanks
Correct, the up/down motor only spins 1 way
Quoted from ravve:I am still struggeling with the right VUK switch. The arm (actuator) on the switch snapped off, so I am trying to make my own arm.
I cant get the arm to trigger when the ball sits in the cup, but it triggers with my finger.
PLEASE, I really need a pic! It would really help if someone could take a pic of that arm! I want to see if I am doing right where it touches the ball cup.
PLEASE
Here is my (non-working) solution:[quoted image][quoted image]
Hopefully these help
20201212_193512 (resized).jpg20201212_193655 (resized).jpg20201212_193657 (resized).jpgQuoted from MMarks3:Also T-rex goes down, grabs the ball, sends to the. VUK and then goes down again. Is that normal?
Nope should stop at the top then the ball gets swallowed. There should be a switch called Trex up in testing that should be triggered when he's up. That should stop him from going down again normally. Unsure if there is another switch that would be triggered by the ball going across to the vuk, maybe that would stop him?? I'm just guessing at this point
Quoted from brainmegaphone:How many people have done this? I'm definitely thinking of trying this. Guests playing the game almost immediately remark how harsh it is. I got used to it but still think the blinking doesn't add much to it...
I did it, takes a few minutes to achieve, if you don't like it then plug it back in. I couldn't stand the blinking and glad I unplugged it
Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:Thanks for that. For some reason I have a clearance issue between the ramp and diverter arm when its installed as it stops the ramp from sitting low enough.
I had that issue before when doing a teardown. Losen all the screws off and allow the ramp to sit natutally. I remember mine being slightly bent and misaligned that causes the drag issue. Once the diverter moves retighten all the screws on the ramp
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