Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider harryhoudini.
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Does anyone know if the lighted scoop topper mods (the plastic signs that go above the scoops) is available anywhere (or anyone have it for sale)?
I'm doing a playfield swap. I bought the scoop light kit but would like to dress up the game a bit.
Quoted from edward472:I talked to him last month and he's doing another run. You can PM him on here, and he will contact you when it's available again.
Cool, do you know his u/n?
Quoted from Lonzo:I have a never isnstalled loop combo mod I will sell. Of course I have to find them. Lol
Sweet, PM'd
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I saw something not too long ago where a guy did a restore, and actually had vinyl decals made which he applied to the black cabinet and then clear coated. Can't remember if it was its own thread on in a general thread somewhere, but it looked great.
Yeah, I'm talking with him actually but it sounds expensive to get cut. Lots of vinyl, 3 colors. Contemplating it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You could always go "all in" and send it off to HEP: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18
Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.
Quoted from edward472:Lonzo did decals when he did his restore. Kcz did decals too https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/to-clearcoat-or-not-to-clearcoat-that-is-the-question-#post-4956787
Retro refurbs sells whole decals
Talking with Lorenzo now, thanks. Yeah, the RR ones were the only option I saw. Would love some radcals but not made yet.
Quoted from J-Freeze:JP is the perfect candidate for Radcals, the corners are already black...
I wouldn't think it would be a tough game to stencil, I lucked out and got a sweet set of Phoenix arcade decals for mine, super high quality, you could put feelers out and see If there is another set floating around out there but I know it was a limited run.
I stenciled my Cyclone, 2 colors instead of three but black background, and it was a PAIN. It was my first time but even still I had a bear of a time getting the paint to lay down opaque enough and removing the stencils leaving enough time to get all the coats of paint down before he stencils pulled off the edges of paint. I don't think I'll ever do it again.
I'd definitely be in for radcals and a hardtop, but now I'm replacing the playfield so I'm probably good there.
Quoted from edward472:You're replacing your playfield?! How bad was it?
Zoom in around the pops and lower center between the flippers. Some of that mess are repairs I did to level the playing surface a bit with a special jewelry making epoxy just so we could play the game. The inserts were heavily divoted. The scoop holes are way worn. New playfield is much better (although has a bit of wear) but I have cliffys to cover it all.
0508192058 (resized).jpgHas anyone converted their 3d standup targets to flat ones? I ordered all the replacement targets from Marco but when I couldn't find them all originally I was heavily considering doing this. I think it looks better, fresher, newer... but I don't understand why the 3d targets were used in the first place. Is it just a visual?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I had some from previous owner, but after having the pin for a couple of weeks, I just didn't like them. Ended up putting 3D ones back on spitter targets (owner still had them), and had to purchase a few more to replace a couple of other flats and/or broken ones that were on the pin.
The main reason I didn't like them was all of the behind area exposed. The game was designed with these thicker targets in mind. Not saying that others wouldn't like it, but just not my preference.
FYI, if is interested in flats, shoot me a PM and I'll sell you the new ones I have at a discounted price. Not sure exactly what I have, but I can take inventory if you are interested.
Thanks for the input, good to know. I am usually one to go for the stock look in most cases, so after seeing those pics I'm going to stick with the 3d.
Ok... who has done a playfield swap? Am I totally messed up here or is this wiring harness without any connectors at all? I either need to pull it entirely off the playfield while in the cabinet or snip every freaking zip tie and pull every single connector off the boards in the backbox? Fucking Data East... every other wiring loom has a connector.
0509191321 (resized).jpgNot separating the bundles per say, but there are about 30 zip ties between the playfield and backbox (all along the black wire sleeve, attached to other wires in the backbox). Ok, glad to know I wasn't crazy... I'm half tempted to put in a plug but the thought of crimping all those pins has me on the fence.
But Data East, WHY!?
And on the same note, it's like 1/2 the playfield parts had connectors and 1/2 I had to just cut, like I couldn't even get under the playfield to desolder them so I just had to cut. Example, all of the lights and switches on the ramp at the gate.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:[quoted image]
Woaaaahhhhh.... nice. I will definitely be trying this.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hey Honey, could you please come hold something for me for a few seconds while I do something to the pinball machine?
I don't know if you're really just kidding, but I can't count how many times I've had to say something like that.. or have her use her long arms to reach something that fell in the wee back corners of the cabinet. She used to help me move them before I had a dolly. Soldering wires together under the playfield needs at least 3 hands a lot of the time.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Make sure you have a chair with something grippy and soft on it so it does not slide. Also be warned the populated playfield is probably 80 pounds and awkward. The wires are not long enough to set the playfield on the ground.
I have some nice X-frame metal work horses that can adjust height/width by spreading the legs (lol), so they make a perfect playfield holder and are tall enough that you don't have to bend over, so they sit right up around playfield height. Perfect for this.
Quoted from edward472:Shout out to Lonzo on the tip for removing the prongs on the TRex saucer. Bought some NOS saucers but had the tabs. The tabs were rejecting the ball. Some sandpaper and 30 mins later.... good to go
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, this is timely! I ended up with 1 yellow and 1 clear (dock with light under it) for my playfield swap, didn't know those tabs were an issue.
Welp... caution has been thrown to the wind. And honestly, praise be to all that is JJP for putting spade connectors on their coils. So much desoldering! And tossing the playfield next to the cabinet, SantaEatsCheese that is KILLER. Found a bunch of surprises.. flipper bushing was falling apart on one, one of the large blue plastic pop bumper mounts was cracked and falling out of the playfield, many shitty repairs with twisted wire and electrical tape. Playfield was way easy to lift on my own with all of the upper playfield crap taken off.
Quoted from mbott1701:harryhoudini what are you doing with the old playfield once you're done with the swap?
Heh, I have two people that messaged me, and ironically two playfields that I'll have left over when done here. I'll post them up, sounds like people want them for projects or restore.
Quoted from ypurchn:sooo JP god's... I just finished shopping out my JP and bringing it back to factory (except for the captive ball which I did keep as the white ball) and my poor PF holes that were covered by cliffy's but I got tired of get cliffied on so many shots so I ripped them off.
BUT i've got a 3/4" metal hex spacer, double female, that was in my parts bucket and I purchased a new one from Terry and now I can't figure out where it goes... metal hex spacer = tall 6 sided spacer/post/thingy that screws into a PF post and has a screw go into the top of it.
anything?
HA.. I have all my playfield parts laying out on my guest room bed and I have only one hex spacer. Is it the one that goes over the top hole on the left sling plastic and holds up the left ramp? I believe there is only one in the game but that one is longer than 3/4".
Quoted from ypurchn:It is a 1 1/4”
I used (3) 1 1/4” but needed 4. 2 for the clear plastic above the VUK on the right. 1 for the left ramp support over the left slingshot. And 1 for the top right corner behind the flasher. It doesn’t hold anything but I’m assuming it’s there to act as a way to keep balls from getting trapped behind the flasher.
There is also a 3” (?) hex that holds the clear left ramp in the middle upstream of the diverter.
Hum... ahhh ha, yes the VUK ones I see are with that plastic, doh. Not seeing the one that goes under the top right flasher, weird. I wish the JP manual had these parts and locations, I am getting spoiled with the JJP manuals.
Quoted from ypurchn:Maybe an on route mod? IDK
[quoted image]
My plastics were all cracked and screws missing, so hard for me to say what was there, but I am fairly sure I didn't remove one there. And I realized the ones for the clear plastic by the VUK are still attached to the clear light dome, heh. I still don't see one for the ramp support, should be interesting when I put it back together.
Quoted from ypurchn:Here’s the 3” (?) I’m referring to. I’d say it’s necessary as it’s the only support between the top and bottom of the ramp. [quoted image]
I didn’t take great tear down pics - obviously. But I can upload what I’ve got if you need them for reassembley of yours.
Thanks.. I took a crapton of pics but only from the "left" vantage point (the game is close to a wall) so I can't see what is under that side of the ramp, doh. I have to imagine it was there, like you said... just not sure where it went! I am going to toss a few sizes in my cart on PBL as I have like 150 other things in there waiting for an order.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6g6iG5t6FsTp88a37
I just found this pic, partially disassembled and I don't see where/how that standoff would mount. Weird.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP5bJzmssceoKuyA9
AHHH.. I see where it would go, better view shows the hole:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WMRFe9Rc3M4UsqUN9
Quoted from ypurchn:Ding ding ding. We have a winner. Of course now it’s obvious in my pics.
Now I noticed that I’m missing that clear star/jewel post at the front... ugh
Well that's nice, I had neither of those things, lol. I never had issues with balls getting stuck, so must not be that crucial.
Quoted from GRB1959:How about this one? It is a ball trap preventer next to one of the pop bumpers.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Looking at this pic again compared to mine (https://photos.app.goo.gl/AN4xk8T4H43VXaDM7) it looks like my light bracket is mounted the other way around. Not sure how that could change unless I re-riveted the light housings to the bracket. Guess this explains why I don't have the clear post. I wonder how that happened.. factory change?
Quoted from PantherCityPins:I've been having some issues with the ball getting stuck in the right corner of the T Rex metal area, above the saucer. If I hit the area hard the ball hits the left side of the saucer area and jumps up into the upper metal area and gets stuck in that right corner. I have to tilt the machine to get the ball to feed back down which of course causes the machine to tilt.
Any ideas?
Make sure the upper plate is screwed down all the way and that the game is level.
Quoted from HIPPY:I was just emailing Cliffy. He now has a newly made hole protector for T-Rex. FYI
Pics? I don't see it on his site. Is this just for the lower wood area around the eject hole? Wondering how it would affect the ball getting stuck in the upper platform.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You thinking something like this? You could definitely follow the contour of the ramp between where the line changes on the plastic at both ends. I don't really know much about how to execute the lighting, but I'd be willing to help and/or take on the fence design to follow the contour. In my mind, it would affix to the front lip of the plastic ramp. First step would be to remove the ramp and trace the curve - not sure how fun that is to do (I'd probably build a cardboard template and trace onto it with the ramp installed).
[quoted image]
That would look AWESOME. How about a matching static gate over the ramp entrance? Since Tim's isn't available anymore could be a nice accompaniment.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:@Geteos is your man for the new static gate: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/108#post-4886785
Thanks, PMed
Cliffy updated the whole set, but really it's just the power shed scoop and adding the 2pc shooter eject and t-rex hole. He charged me like $32 to augment the set I already have.
JP-2019-PS-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-TRex-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-ejects-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-full-set-001 (resized).JPGJP-2019-scoops-001 (resized).JPGQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:The day has finally come . . . my new JP paint job is finished.
I love the way it came out, and it really screams "Come play me,
but watch out!"
[quoted image][att=4993543,1601134
caption=""][quoted image][att=4993543,1601137
caption=""]
WOAH... crazy. Now you need to heat up your backboard plastic and bend it up (lol, pet peeve.. mine has been hanging down forever)
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The sign is bowed in the middle for effect which may be giving a
false appearance as the backboard plastic is perfectly flat (if I'm
understanding correctly what you are referring to).
The black banner... for effect? Meaning it's supposed to be that way?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Yes, it bows out in the center which helps the orange light
behind it diffuse more (otherwise you can see the individual
LEDs).
Ok, you got me... I didn't even notice the lights! Looks awesome.
Personally, as someone who hadn't modded their beat to crap JP for many years (I bought it beat to crap), I am loving all of these ideas. I think the fence around the ramp would look AWESOME but if it can't be executed properly, that makes sense. Tim made some awesome stuff but nothing is available anymore.
That T-REX mod is the bees knees, but at the price it seems like it would have to be I don't think I can justify it for my JP. Some of the "best" mods for WOZ (a game 3-4 times the price) are running around $200. Yeah, you can't compare materials, time to make, etc... but some of them are hand carved, manually produced, none are 3d printed (as far as I know).
$100 on a gate is about what I could probably throw at it (along with the cost of LEDs I just did). I am working on cabinet decals, but that is probably stretching the budget. I just spent a few hundred on refurbishment parts (all of the pop bumper housings, the blue things, are all broken) and had to refurb a playfield because there are no other options. Oh, and I splurged on some of those scoop signs from from loopcombo.
Huge fan, small pockets for this game.
I wholeheartedly agree with replacing the box. Something that matches the gate would definitely make that look better. If there are lighting effects to add (to the saucer or just to the new sign) that could light the t-rex differently at different stages. I'd be in for that.
Quoted from winteriscoming:NO!
Feeding
Flash Photos(?)
Yelling
NO!
Feeding
Flash Photography
Yelling
I believe
Quoted from winteriscoming:This is part of a proposed Lego design that I think accurately represents the photo icon and sign at the bottom.[quoted image]
Yes please! Maybe the photo sign could be changed to be an "alert" icon (like exclamation point) that has the red light behind it and lights up with the t-rex (as the red light does now). It could be a plastic similar to what loopcombo did with the scoops.
Well, just make the circle graphic a choice 
Could be a decal or just have multiple options. I don't think the "picture" fits in with the use of the sign in this instance, maybe there is another sign somewhere that has an alert. I was thinking also of the "shielded" industrial lights on the electric fence, that could be an icon and red light behind. It might just have to adapt a little bit to fit the position and usage in the game, but to each their own.
Quoted from Geteos:I could print the base out of grey PLA and the center part (or just the T-rex circle) with translucent. Stick a decal over the translucent part and light it up with some red LEDs.
I think the loopcombo scoops are plexiglass or lexan? Translucent PLA is a bit better for diffusion of LEDs imo. Also easier to work with since I'm not set up to cut plexi.
The current light socket for the T-rex lamp is plugged in using flat connectors and I have the correct female connectors from my Gate mod so I could make it plug and play with that light. The only thing to consider is what to do with the spot light and flasher that are inside that box. The flasher is soldered in, so it would have to be cut out. The spot light has flat connectors, so it's easy to remove/rewire.
I'll try to whip something up in Fusion tonight as a base to get started.
I think most people would be able to re-wire easily enough. I was hoping the existing lights could fit inside the box, sort of like it does now. Can you print a somewhat hollow box? I'm totally in for this if it's not ridiculously expensive. Heck, I'd be happy to even design the graphics and get them printed out on clear sticker paper.
The flasher could be made smaller, doesn't have to be a 89 base (I think that is what it is) could be a small wedge connector, comet sells flasher bulbs that would work.
An option for the flasher/lights that are there might be to relocate some sockets lower down and use the flex lights like comet sells https://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1883.htm
1-WIRE_ULTIMATE_OPTIX___LED_BULBS___PINBALL___NON_GHOSTING___SUPER_FLUX___COMETPINBALL_COM (resized).jpgSweet... I'm in for the T-Rex box mod and the shooter lane one, maybe even the fence. Make me a package!
Quoted from Geteos:So my v1 is a few mm too tall. So I’m going to slice some off the bottom and reprint. But here’s a taste of what I’m going for.
[quoted image][quoted image]
KILLER!
Quoted from Geteos:Right now it is 22mm to match the scaled decal circle. My plan was to print a translucent plug to go into the hole that holds 4 LED's and wire them up to plug into the existing wiring. This would replace the current T-Rex light. My reasoning was so that you wouldn't need to unrivet the current socket from the metal box.
Yea, looking at the screen from the movie, it looks like the circle center is in line with the top and is about 1/3 of the width (16.7mm in my model). I tried this out right now and 1/3 looked a bit too small, so I increased it about 22mm wide. I think it looks better.
I test fit my new fence and the stand inside the game. I was able to transfer over the spot light into the box. It press fits onto a nub I print on the back. I will change this to a screw hole in the final version.
[quoted image]
OH damn, it's coming together!
Quoted from winteriscoming:Hmm... given that the gun handle is all black, I wonder if the 3D printed parts were done in black if it would look good. Or a black shell and gray core.
I was thinking, if the mod isn't black, I might repaint the handle to match.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Best club in all of pinball I would say.
I'm guessing the people left posting here, compared to some of the newer games I have, are the sort of die hards who want to keep their game going or redo it. A lot of the people in the other clubs on the newer games are having to repair shit right away, it's their first game, etc. Rules issues with new code. Manufacturing issues (POTC *cough*). Maybe I'm just in too many JJP clubs, lol.
Quoted from Geteos:Wow very nice, how did you do the clear coat? DIY spray gun?
Thanks. SprayMax 2X from the can, 2 part. I'm about *this* close to buying some auto clear 2 part since I have spray equipment but I just don't do it enough and the SprayMax works pretty darn well.
Not the best ever but I had to restore the "S" in Chaos (and then later the "C".. it was ghosting and the "stick down with clear" method did not work). I think from a distance it looks ok, close up looks like a 10 year old colored it. I did a waterslide decal but it wasn't anywhere close to black enough so I painted over it with acrylic.
0519191410 (resized).jpgQuoted from jorro:I believe theres a topic on the spraying auto clear somewhere, but looking good allready!
Vid's guide to restoring playfields has everything you ever wanted to know really. I just have anxiety about dealing with stuff that isn't water soluble (cleaning up, thinning, etc) and needing all the stuff to do that. The 2X seems to do a really good job and for $20 it's hard to beat. If I was doing this regularly I would probably invest more time and energy.
3rd coat of clear setting. Then some 600/800/1000 or something (need to order that higher grit) and then some polishing with a buffing wheel. I'd say for a $40 rehab it's not too bad. Closely the touchups look like an amatuer did them (me!) but for a game without many playfield options and considering what my prior playfield looked like this is a huge upgrade.
Now I wish I sort of did the HAO in CHAOS with the waterslide as those are murky compared to the new ones. Oh well.
0520191519a (resized).jpg0520191519b (resized).jpg0520191519c (resized).jpg
Quoted from Geteos:Yea I can put a top on the box if you’d like one. I’ll print one out next with the top on.
Best modder of all time.
Quoted from flynnibus:Hey folks, looking for some tips on getting T-Rex to more reliably pickup the ball.
Before T-Rex was eating the ball pretty reliably, but side to side was poor. I had the thing apart, cleaned and regreased the gearbox.. and side to side is pretty decent now. But T-Rex lately has gotten less reliable eating the ball. He tends to go down, teeth the ball and not get a full chomp and fails to grab it.
In test, the switches all activate as I think they should. And if I activate the jaw as soon as bottom switch activates and center switch is active, he eats the ball fine. Bottom switch is set to go off as t-rex is as low as I can make it. The center switch has virtually no adjustment play as the arm and throw is quite short.
In test it's fine... in game play he's inconsistent boot to boot. Sometimes I can see he is just a tad to the right from center like he's overshooting.. and I can reproduce it is harder for him to grab the ball in that position with test mode. But the amount he is different is so slight.. maybe 1/8" of an inch at the saucer. That's the only pattern I've been able to identify. The cam action seems fine.. but it's either slightly not far enough down, or slightly off center and he just teeths the ball.
Suggestions?
Also, does anyone have a map of where the flashing #44 bulbs are in the backbox from factory?
Thx!
A few things I've dealt with... machine tilt, this had an effect on my t-rex reliably picking up the ball. Saucer broken? That causes issue.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:ForceFlow suggested to call/email pinbits.com to see if they can help.
I did and didn't hear back yet, but a local pinsider took a pic and measurements I did and made it last night, lol. The beauty of pinside.
Quoted from winteriscoming:I've seen mention that Cliffy protectors make the hole shots more difficult. I realized I installed the protectors almost immediately after buying JP, so I've not really played without them. The other day I was playing, and I notice most of my shots to the holes end up unsuccessful and I never get through system shutdown. Getting through tri-ball into Chaos multi-ball is pretty difficult for me since often times a seemingly spot-on shot bounces back from the hole.
Anyone do any significant comparisons with and without Cliffy's?
Anyone without Cliffy's have frequent bounce back?
A change I just made was to remove Titan post rubbers and went back to Cliffy posts. Direct hits to the Titan posts send the ball flying into the air. This doesn't happen to the stiffer Cliffy posts. I haven't browsed Titan's offerings lately, so no clue if they now offer firmer posts than what I had. My Titan's were from when the company started offering the competition silicone line.
Interesting. I know Cliff just redesigned some of the JP set (I just bought the updated pieces) so I wonder if that changes anything. I also worried about this with my playfield swap and adding cliffys. I wonder if making the hole bigger and then adding the cliffys would change the dimension of the opening at all. Maybe bending them just a bit might open them up more or are they completely open in the hole already?
Good to know about the titan rubber. I have it on my JJPOTC and there are a TON of air balls. I bought it for my JP as well, so I guess we'll see. I also have the portugal set and then talked to cliffy and he said he updated his set (I was unaware if the portugal ones are like his or not) so I bought the new pieces from him. I am going to see how they fit and maybe mould them a bit to the holes. My holes were quite worn so I built the up a bit with some epoxy putty and sanded them down. I am not sure they are the same size as original but maybe just a bit less. I can see how the cliffys are more square corners whereas the holes are not.
I don't know what the gate mod currently uses, but I added these flickering LEDs to my WOZ and I think they'd look perfect on the gate flames. Hopefully they are already used
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/153#post-5011301
Hopefully last coat of clear. Had to do some re-work on the "C" and "S" and for my first time I think they are ok. The lines are a bit thick. I had to redo the BUNKER text as well, and touch up most colors around the "C" as I had to sand down my first attempt at leveling it with some clear coat. Overall I'm really happy with the result, especially compared to my old playfield.
I do have another playfield that I might do the same work to if someone is interested. It isn't in as good of shape, has some yellowing that should hopefully sand off but maybe someone else wants a refurbished playfield who has a crappy one now. My old one isn't worth saving but I can harvest the inserts from it I need to fix the spare one I have.
In hindsight I would have done the HAO letters as well as they are cloudy compared to the others.
0524191443 (resized).jpg0524191443a (resized).jpg0524191443b (resized).jpg
Quoted from Geteos:The gate I make hooks into the the existing gate 2 bulb wiring, and I don't believe the lights stay steady on for much during the game, they're usually flashing. So if I used flickering LEDs the effect wouldn't really come through.
It would be possible to tie the top two 5mm LEDs into the GI and make those flicker LEDs always on and then leave the other 6 middle LED's to do the flashing. Once I wrap up the other mods, I'll revisit the gate some more.
How long til you start repopulating the top side?
Cool, yeah, I figured I would probably need to do some manual reconfiguration. If you want some flickering LEDs I'll send you som, I have like 10 left over at least. But yeah, I figured I would tie in to the GI.
HA!... well, it's like my 3rd pinball project going on, so... the 2X Spraymax guys are telling me to let the playfield cure for 2 weeks before sanding. That doesn't make a ton of sense to me as I was sanding coats within a few hours and I don't see car repair places letting them cure, it's automotive paint afterall. So, waiting to decide on that... but I have to do all of the wiring on the bottom, replace sockets, etc. So probably at least a week or so.
I have this other playfield that I am not sure what I will do with. I could maybe restore it like the one above or sell it as it is. You can probably see from the pic it is yellowed. I am thinking this is a clear coat that is crap. So I plan to sand and re-clear. It is missing one insert I think (the S) and I have another playfield I can grab it from and the artwork already made for the waterslide. I can include those things if I sell it as is. Is there interest in a used playfield? I assume so since no one is making them.
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0526191538 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hard to tell from original flyer, but doesn’t look like anything is there. https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1343&picno=3211&zoom=1
Funny in that there are clear pop covers instead of amber, and also a white light on one of the scoops instead of yellow (probably forgot the cover). Pic also shows a white captive ball.
I nabbed a white ball from PBL... it looks good IMHO. The yellow pops with the logo are a must have, personally. They are so prominent in the game.
Quoted from Geteos:Really the only item that keeps me from making these on demand is the flasher socket because I buy them from Marco.
If you're willing to re-use your existing one or buy it from Marco yourself, then I can produce one in a couple days.
I don't need one if you want to spare one on mine.
Quoted from BleacherBum:I need a new switch for the ramp switch assembly (500-2679-00). I do not need the complete assembly just the switch. The manual does not list the separate pieces that make up the assembly. Does anyone know what switch I need?
Thanks,
Phil
I think the part you are looking at in the manual is 500-5679-00 (hard as heck to read) which is this (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5679-00) and the actual switch is just a basic DB3 or DB5 I believe (I have no idea what the differences are) like this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/95-4118-90. You can actually transfer the wireform from the old switch if it is in good condition. Otherwise, if you look on page 27 I believe the individual switch part numbers are listed. I think you want #34 which is 180-5117-00 and no on really has it (http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5117-00) but it looks like this part superceeds it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5198-00
Quoted from Geteos:There's a good thread on here about the differences between DB3 and DB5. I attached the relevant picture showing the part number breakdown.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games
The gist is that DB3 is rated for 0.1A/250V and DB5 is rated for 1A/250V.
When I replaced mine I just grabbed a switch with the same dimensions from a local electronics surplus store and reused the rest of the assembly. The force of the ball rolling through the little wire gate I think is enough to actuate whichever switch you put in. At worst you'll need to bend the wireform.[quoted image]
Nice info!
Sounds like a production line change to prevent some issue with the ramp sagging or being misaligned. Guess it couldn't hurt.
Quoted from woody24:Interesting. Wonder what the serial number is on that machine? Did he post it? Curious if mine was made before or after it. Mine was a Japan model before. Somewhere I thought I heard they did overseas production first?
Temping to go and put one on, but I've had zero issues with mine, so I'm just going to leave it alone I guess.
BUT, looking at that screenshot, looks like there may have been a lock-nut on there at one point? There's a mark around the post. Or maybe that's just from when they punched the hole?
Found it. around the 4:06 mark. SN#88328 June 1993.
I can't even really imagine why it would be needed. If anything I would think the ball escaping on the other side of the ramp would be more prominent than the backside, so why support it there?
Does anyone know where to get the short clear ball return guides (550-5043-01 / 550-5045-01)?
Marco has the part listed but it's not in stock. The longer return guides are available 550-5037-01 (https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-parts/playfield-parts-lane-guides/data-eastsegastern-clear-return-lane-guide-550-5037-01/) but not the ones that go on top (shorter) ones.
Edit - Looks like, on closer inspection, the shorter guide is just a truncated version of the longer one. I'm just going to grab 4 and cut two of them.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I need some help with where a flasher wire goes, please. The back right flasher that comes up through the playfield stopped working and I see that the black w/ yellow stripe wire is not connected. Can someone please tell/show me where I need to solder? Please see center of my pic for flasher I am referring to, and you can also see the disconnected wire.[quoted image]
The black/yellow wire comes in from the wiring harness and goes up through the playfield to the back right flasher. Then it comes down from there and goes back in to the wiring bundle and goes further down the playfield (I think to that long narrow light PCB). I don't know how you have that wire sitting in the middle there but it looks like it should be going up to the back right flasher. There should be two black/yellow wires going to that flasher (through the playfield) and I only see one in your photo so I think that dangling wire needs to go up there. Again, not sure why it would be so short or hanging there like that. In fact the wires going to that flasher in the oblong hole don't look right.
0609191817 (resized).jpg0609191821 (resized).jpg0609191822 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:For the flasher right next to the eject shield, I have exactly what you show (photo is hiding the second black/yellow wire).
For the flasher where I have an issue, it looks like I have an oval hole where you have a circle one. Also, my wire colors are different on that same flasher verses yours. You have 2 orange and 2 black/brown while I have 2 black/brown and one black/yellow. Now I'm really confused.
Does anyone else have my situation?
Do you have a black/yellow going to the long lamp PCB that you can see in my last photo?
Quoted from jesperpark:Don't forget to take the protective masking off BOTH sides of those new plastics you have there.
Lookin good!!
HEH... yeah, it's all just tossed on there for fitment and photo. You can see some of them are removed where I installed flasher domes, etc.
The orange wire goes from the top right flasher to the horizontal flasher just next to it
Then from there it goes to this sort of mounting junction thing
My playfield is on some stands right now so it's hard to flip over. I can trace it in a few days once I get it back in the game.
I'll see if I can get a better picture laying on my back, lol. I'm interested enough now that I want to see what is up!
Quoted from Neal_W:You could take it to the craft store to find something, but just thinking about what is around the house. That looks similar to bike inner tube if you have something like that around to try.
Oh good option. I have some gray rubber from a shower floor pan, but wanted to keep it black. I'll see if I have a tube laying around... I worry it won't sit flat once cut. I suppose a craft store is the next option, thanks.
Damnit, just broke the ramp right near the diverter. I was trying to rivet back in the plate which connects the wire ramp. I am guessing this is unobtainium, looks like I'm doing some plastic welding. Damnit, damnit, damnit.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I think someone suggested rubber from an innertube. Could either buy a cheap new tube at Walmart or bike store for a couple of bucks.
Yeah, I'll start there and use some polycarb for the plastic unless I can find something else.
Trying to figure out if this is an OEM part or not... sorry no pic, but easy to describe.
Most of the gray, clear and metal posts which support a plastic use a metal post inside of them that is threaded top and bottom with a built in "nut" ... PBL calls it a "Machine Post/Stud". Every single one on my game are the exact same EXCEPT one. The one is about 2-3mm taller (the top threaded portion). I can't see where this might have specifically gone. Maybe I could see it as one of the support for the Amber piece, but there is only one of them. Does this one go somewhere special or did someone just toss the wrong one in the game?
Quoted from J-Freeze:Top of the right sling? Where the main wireform is secured.[quoted image]
YES!!! Thank you!!
(I'm glad someone else is using colored nuts!)
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Not clear on what you are meaning here? EOS switches or flipper button switches?
Button switches. Bad contacts could cause intermittent function. Or just replace those and eos, easy enough to do and it's excluded.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Some one should make a new apron with the letters TREX backlit....just sayin
How about a new sticker that has clear/red inserts? Then just have to use shorty bulbs without domes to fit under. I can probably get that sticker made pretty easily.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:This is quite doable if there is actually a market for it. I'd be happy to make them for $10 each. I haven't looked or tried, but is there enough clearance for a non-domed LED?
I can look in a few minutes. If not I am guessing the mech can be modified a bit to sit lower, I don't recall any tight clearances. Or heck, a 3D printed armature with different sockets.
I can do the design and printing to if you don't end up doing it. I'm doing some JJPOTC decals right now and I have the decal in question uninstalled. I can give you a scan if needed.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Thats nice dude!
You could also laser cut the letters with black over the white lens. Then just remake the sticker with a bigger jp logo and font size without the trex letters. Over booooard, lol. Would be cool though.
Yeah, that could be cool too. I guess you could change the sticker around since you are remaking it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You almost have to do decals for both sides, as you will never completely match the coloring or style.
Yeah, thought about that... then you can definitely redesign it!
I'll do them in a week or two if no one else does. I am in the middle of doing like 10 for JJPOTC.
Shit, I just realized I could use the new sticker and just put some sort of translucent plastic under the lights. Boom, stock but updated.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Before I go to too much effort, other than the couple of us, is there any interest in this? For me, having to remember to remove the bottom bulb every time I lift the playfield (I’ve broken one, scratched top of my backbox, etc.) is enough of a reason to figure out a flush mount solution.
I didn't even know this was an issue.
The flex work/fit fine... it's an easy solution if you want to use the existing sticker, as well. I was going to do clear/semi-opaque inserts with red bulbs behind. That way they are white/clear when not lit. I might replace the holders so I can lower them and use a brighter light (the flex have limited options). One of their quasar bulbs or whatever with like 4 SMD on it could be nice.
I'd probably have to get 100 of each printed if I did it.. that's the place I'm using for the POTC stuff, at least. I am guessing interest is limited, maybe 20 people if that.
I need to find some semi-transparent material anyhow for a window on POTC so the same stuff will probably work for this as well. Now that I found the decal, I might just do that... problem is I only have the left. I don't really want to do just the left, but it might look ok. I guess I could see if there is some other option, like Kinkos or something. The other stickers I am making are for targets so they are heavier duty. The biggest thing would be the die cut so it has the right shape. I don't think I could cut them out to look decent, the rounded corners would get murdered.
Ah so close. I am missing 2 parts, both arriving from PBL on Monday. In the meantime fixing a few little things, tidying up, re-connecting a few cut wires, etc. Got the Geteos mods installed..might mod them a bit
Have a hankering for some flickering flame lights on the gate.
0615191630 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'd like to try to play a game with the flippers in those positions - ha!
Heh... it was screwing with my brain. I need to climb under and hook those up. I just got the diverter in to place (totally forgot it needed a bushing, couldn't figure out what was going on). I'm repairing my ramp break today and barring those two items tomorrow I should be ready to put it back together!
Dang that was quick! Looks great! I wish I had a nice color printer, I have to send that stuff out to get printed.
You interested in an alternate design if I send it to you? Welcome to print it for anyone who wants it and I'll happily pay for a set. I am wanting to keep mine looking more like stock.
Btw.. I'm keeping this image so I can copy your game! Actually, I can't since some of that stuff isn't available anymore, but I was wondering where to put the palm trees and keep it looking clean. Your game looks really nice.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I like it - looks great! I think you need to do the other side.
I was sort of thinking including newer imagery, logos on the other version. Do you think that fits? I am worried, unlike JJPOTC, this game really only covers one movie, no?
You definitely need a caution tape version!
I think I'll mess with my other photo version and get both to you, with both sides.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm liking it. Even better would be a bloody goat in mouth of T-Rex (maybe with goat leg flying around).
That's the animated version. As you light TREX the rex picks up the goat and chews it up.
Ok, who's making the LCD replacement?
Ahh yeah, this is getting exciting! Stupid package is arriving tomorrow with my last pieces. In the meantime, I'm adding my own touches to Geteos gate:
Quoted from fosaisu:And another question ... Does anyone have a part number for the topper reflection bar? Couldn't find it in the manual or with a quick search at Marco.
[quoted image]
I don't think you'd be able to find that anywhere... maybe I'm off, but those kinds of pieces are rarely in stock anywhere. Seems like it could easily be made out of a sheet of almost any metal from a home improvement store. Drill some holes, bend it over the side of the workbench, a few cuts, etc.
So close I can taste it. I'm gonna let that ramp sit a while.. I used some plastic "adhesive" made by "weld-on" that is supposed to melt the plastic and bond it permanently. Then I am going to back it up with some fillable/instant cure super glue (its a two part system with a dry granular powder that you put in place and then just drop some super glue on it). It is either that or epoxy.. not 100% sure. Maybe even just some hot glue.. those hemostats are so awesome, thanks Marco. Wish I had another pair.
I don't think that part of the ramp gets hit hard, I think the diverter does most of the work. Hopefully it's a solid fix. I tried to see if someone would make the ramp but the guy who is making ramps in small batches doesn't have an oven big enough to do it. I assume there isn't a huge demand so paying a vacuum form shop to do it is probably crazy expensive based on my investigation in to cyclone ramps back in the day.
Crap, does anyone have this decal? Or want to make one? I bought all of the decals like 5 years ago and thought I had them but this is the only one I am missing. I have a spare one for the t-rex box side which looks like it might work decent there, so if nothing else i'll use that (and bay area has those in stock). I can't even find that decal pictured at any seller.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from jesperpark:If you used weld-on 3,4 or 16 (thicker) that should hold well. You can also back it up with a UV cured adhesive, I tried one from Home Depot that actually worked quite well for a ramp for another guy.
Speaking of JP ramps I will be looking at building a mold and pulling parts for sale. Won't get a chance to work on the mold until Mid July and hopefully parts by fall. I was looking for a damaged ramp to use as a basis for a mold, but since I can't find one I am going to use my good one a the basis of the mold. Fingers crossed I won't break mine I have a vacuum former at work that will fit the JP ramp and subway nicely.
That said if anyone has a damaged/cracked/broken ramp they are willing to let go for the sake of building new ramps send me a PM
I used 3... I wish I got 16 but 3 works. I backed it up with another piece of lexan and then filled the gaps with the filler glue. I have some UV cure stuff but I haven't had the best luck with strength.
Would really be nice to have a replacement!
Quoted from jorro:Hi Harry
PM me your email adres i have a copy on my computer i can mail you
Thanks!
Crap.. I'm missing a wire. Can someone look and see where this wire connects?
It's a yellow/blue wire coming down through the playfield with all of the ramp/gate wires. I believe it is paired in the same tubing as the red/blue wire. I had to cut these to remove them and I don't see where the yellow/blue was cut off. I have all of the other wire pieces there to pair up. I think I see a yellow/blue on the little junction board where the other yellow & red wires go but not sure why I don't have a cut off end.
pasted_image (resized).png
- Edit... I connected the yellow/blue to what I thought was yellow/blue on the junction board but I am not getting lights.
Ah dang.. something happened and I lost all of the GI on the back half of the playfield. I am hoping it is some loose wire somewhere because it did it when I shoved the playfield back. The diagrams in the manual I have are hard as heck to read.. where does that circuit go? Is there a fuse just for that purple/violet GI string?
Quoted from ypurchn:Maybe this will help?
Be careful there are some yellow/blacks that look a lot like yellow/blue with old dust on them or if you’re wearing your beer goggles on a Saturday night.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I left my pf up if you need some more pics just holla
TY, I'll check tomorrow morning!
Got a few lighting issues to work out but the playfield is in the game! Figuring out what the best lighting is for the loopcombo signs, waiting on my TREX sticker for the apron and gotta see what is up with the back-half GI. Most the game plays!
All that and I think I need to take the t-rex gearbox out. I should have opened it up when I had it out. The poor guy is struggling to get left and right.
If you haven't seen them, you need to get this decal from Titan.. it finishes off the lockbar area so nicely. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133
0622192035 (resized).jpg
Crap, I guess my t-rex was hanging on by a thread. I rebuilt the gearbox and it definitely has some parts of the gears that are worn. It has some "dead" spots where it gets really hard to spin. From what I'm reading the game, even though the motor is 5v, doesn't supply "full wave rectification" which makes the left/right motor sluggish. I think I realized this when I was bench testing with a 5v power supply to the motor directly, it ran excellently. In the game, it gets stuck far left. Now, manually moving the t-rex it gets stuck far left so I think that is a gearbox issue but if the motor gets more power it seems like it is not an issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jp-t-rex-not-moving-leftright#post-1104004
There isn't enough information in that post for me to know what to do. Has anyone made this modification?
I hate to spend $200 on a gearbox and motor but after tearing it all apart I don't see much else I can do. All the other wear/movable parts have been cleaned and lubed so the rex moves easily on it's own. The gearbox/motor seems to be the largest issue.
Can I get the motor on its own? I don't see the part number listed anywhere, I have to imagine this is something common?
I am not 100% sure what version I'm on. I think I have some newer chips here to install as well, so I can look at both. There is definitely a mechanical issue, I can feel it in the gearbox. I just don't know if it is something common to do the modification to the relay board (doesn't seem to be) or even if anyone here has tried that. There is definitely a difference in speed/force when just applying 5v to the motor directly.
Also, I noticed that the left/right motor is only moving one direction even during tests, this did not used to be the case. Guess I need to check the relay board for that as well, it sounds like. Maybe this is related to power as well.
Quoted from jesperpark:I know when I got my JP the Trex would only turn 1 way, it was a bad relay in my case. There has been discussion to which one it is, but it's on bottom side of playfield.
Thanks, I saw a few threads on this so I'll be checking that out.
Has anyone modified Tim's scoop light mod to be color correct? Instead of red I was going to replace with the proper color, but now I don't remember how that works. Does the mod key off the green "power" light above each scoop? Or is the it color below (blue or yellow)?
Dangit, now I have a few issues. Moving to a new thread to keep it clean: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-rebuild-issues#post-5059847
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:On mine, the scoops flash red whenever lower lights (yellow) are on or flashing for all 3 scoops.
However, his video shows that green on control room triggers scoop light (not how mine seems to work as yellow is on when it is active): https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=45&v=KAbxpj3kALc
Thanks... I was having trouble deciphering from the video. I guess I could cross-reference the wire colors he suggests hooking up to. I thought I looked at the lamp wires and it was all the lower colors (non-green) of the two pairs of lights. I guess that makes sense? You light the scoop by hitting it when the power lights is on and then it turns on the colored light and scoop light?
In that case, they should be the color of the lower light (yellow and blue) to match.
Did anyone else know they had the ramp in stock?
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-main-ramp-assembly.html
I just ordered it... not cheap on shipping but it's available.
Will do. Doesn't look, at least in the picture, that it has the end ball stop bracket so I guess I'll relocate that but it is nice that everything else is attached.
Mr_Tantrum the decals arrived, they look awesome! Better than I expected, high quality!
Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:[quoted image][quoted image]
You should do some simple continuity tests. Your meter should have a mode that beeps when you touch the probes together. Use that mode to touch the silver ring where the lamp holder contacts with the pin on the board plug that it should connect with (just following the traces on the board). Make sure each silver pad hits each pin. Then you'll know the board is good.
If you have a 6v power source you can wire it up to each socket through the pin plug (just trace to each solder pad for each lamp) and see if the lamps work there on the bench.
Do the same tracing with the wiring harness that plugs into the board and the ends that plug in to the backbox. You'll have to manually trace them or find in the schematic where they plug in, but the coloring should be obvious. Test each wire from one end to the other to make sure the wires are all intact.
If that all works then you look at what might be controlling each light, which is where I'd have to do more research, but usually some sort of transistor on the board.
So I replaced the t-rex left/right motor and gearbox which definitely improved the smoothness and torque available. However, I also replaced the relay and diode on that board and the rex still only goes left, with either flipper button.
Any help?
Quoted from newovad:You need to check out the bi-directional relay. It is in the middle of the playfield, not necessarily back by T-Rex. I did a solder reflow on mine and that fixed the problem when my T-rex would only go left.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/91#post-4571777
Yeah, sorry, wasn't clear... I reflowed it first and then replaced the actual relay on the board (along with the diode), still nothing. I has some messed up thru holes so I'll check continuity real quick.
Quoted from Wharhed:No, there's a vendor in Washington State that was making them for JP and several other games, but the name escapes me right now. If I can find their link, I'll post it up.
Quoted from ypurchn:What does he charge for them?
It was something like $30-50 depending on which set. I don't know if I found out what the JP ones were specifically.
Quoted from bigcat68:Have any of y'all guys upgraded to different, better playfield support brackets? If so type and pics please. I don't care for the factory DE brackets.
I ordered the "upgraded" ones from Marco and they were basically the same with more screw holes. Stainless.. nothing special. So now I have two sets of stupid supports. I almost, almost got up the nerve to try and retrofit the WMS/Bally lift & click supports because these are so crappy. Half the time I wrack the playfield trying to put it up or down. Interested too.
On another note, the ramp arrived from PBL. Exactly as pictured, no ball bracket at the end so that has to be moved over. Flap looks to be stainless steel and everything is riveted on. It's odd the one support is there for the metal ramp but not the end ball protection/mount. It feels as thick as the original (which is pretty thick) and I see no issues with it.
If anyone is interested in a used/repaired ramp I can send pics. 100% functional, comes with everything but the end ball bracket (lol) and a brand new flap on it. Minor repair with lexan and plastic weld, somewhat noticeable but ignorable. I'd let it go fairly cheap compared to the new $200 ramp and I have a box sitting here now to ship it in.
Quoted from J-Freeze:I bought the easy slides but haven't put them on yet.
Details please?
Nice. Do you know the part numbers? That looks a lot better.
Someone asked back then if anyone replaced with the WMS ones and no one replied. Now I'm tempted.
Quoted from J-Freeze:I think he means the slides not the supports, but I put those supports on mine and totally worth it in every way.
https://back-alley-creations.myshopify.com/products/ez-slide-slider-bracket
Those look nice, I guess? I mean, I don't see the issue with the metal ones. They seem to slide just fine. It's the prop up brackets that are shit. Unless I'm missing something.
Ah... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-6862-0X
They also have the glides: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5990-PG
WMS parts: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17749.1-2 and https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17749.1-1
Gonna have to look at my TOM or TOTAN and see how those are installed if there is any space issues.
Quoted from J-Freeze:They don't have the "bump" to have to go over when you slide the playfield back in.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-pinball-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-sam-machines.html
I think either of these will fit.
I put the newer spike style on and they are a complete game changer.
Awesome, thanks!
Awesome. Of course I JUST placed an order with Marco last night. I swear USPS and pinball suppliers are in cahoots. Definitely doing this upgrade. I do really wish the sides were better. My WMS games lift up so nicely, even compared to my JJP games (which those playfield support bars are NICE. I can pull my playfields ALL the way out of the game, resting the front on a stool).
Quoted from jamex:This is the link to the video I made of the diagnostics. I understand very little, do you think there is something wrong? Thank you
Search this thread, t-rex chomping has been covered many times I believe. There are usually just a few basic reasons why he can't chomp. Is the game set at the right angle? Is the t-rex centering properly (adjust center switch) or is he not lowering all the way down? Is there something impeding him (wires coming from the back, rubber piece in the front), etc.
Can someone help me do a continuity check on my t-rex relay board? I don't know what pins I should expect what result from. We could do a live video chat if that would be ok, and just go through the pins. I confirmed continuity from the header pins to the actual relay pins but through the various combinations (starting at one lug of the relay and testing to every other one, then moving to the next one) I don't know what I should be expecting.
After replacing the relay and the rex left/right motor it still only goes left. In test mode both flippers send it left, in startup it can only go left, etc.
Here's a video of my t-rex situation if anyone has some input. Just replaced Q24 (see this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues) but I guess it might actually be Q27. Aside from the transistors and the relay I don't know where to look next. He also doesn't chomp or go up and down in the test. I have no idea what happened, this was all working before I pulled him. Wires all look good, but voltage readings are odd to me... shown in the video. Maybe someone can confirm their voltage.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:If the fuse thing doesn't work, it's been a while since I had to mess with mine, but my write up of what I figured out (without a multi-meter) is in post #5234 with pictures...
Thanks, as far as I can tell the fuses on the shaker board are find (all have continuity) and the holders seem fine (although not exactly sure how to test those, but there is continuity from each end of each fuse holder to another component on the board.
It seems like somehow I introduced two problems, although I don't know how as this was all working before I put it back together. The rex doesn't move up and down (although all switches seem fine in the test) and does not snap his jaws. I put some voltages in my video, maybe someone could compare to their game to see if I am seeing proper values?
Quoted from Lonzo:Ok. I guess I lied. I will let you know about one more video I just uploaded. It tell you how to modify your Jurassic Park or any Data East or system 11 game to turn the backbox off during gameplay and get rid of the backbox reflections in the playfield glass.
Oooooh.. interesting!
Quoted from Lonzo:You might be confused. The actor that played Dr Hammond died in 2014.
Well, they were impersonators but still.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, I was doing some minor repairs on my JP, and it bothered me that you were bothered by my bowed sign in the back. So, I came up with a better solution. I used about 1/4" standoffs along with longer screws and now the sign is flat across the back and the light is far enough away that it is diffused.
Thanks for sticking that in my head all this time. [quoted image]
LOL. I am glad I could share my neurosis with you. I had Geteos print me out a whole other T-rex box because I wanted a different color/texture. It's bad.
Looks awesome. I wanted to do your backboard solution but I have like no time.
Quoted from Neal_W:Do you have the bunker (pyramid) on the left, and computer on the right?
Mine fit fine.
I also reshaped mine.
You guys all see that data east Jurassic Park remake they're selling now? I'm pretty sure I already have that machine.
So... I talked to two people a long time ago about a used JP playfield I have. I can't find the PM's and if one of those folks wants it, I'd like to get it to them first. If you are one of those people, PM me and I can send you some pics. If I don't hear from them I'll post it for sale here.
***Nevermind, it was the freaking fuse.
Long time since I left my JP about 99% done from a restoration. When I went back today I found that the slings and pops were not firing. Looks like they are all on F5 on the power board. It looks fine, I need to move the machine to remove it and I'll test it. Aside from that are there any other commonalities about those items? Going to do some continuity tests, I don't know if they ever worked since I put it back together so I'll make sure the wiring is at least correct.
Hopefully unrelated, when I left the game the rex wasn't moving. I reflowed the relay board, replaced the relay, replaced the motor and gear box. I'm sure I tested continuity on the relay board so those traces should be fine. I believe all the switches work, but even in test the rex doesn't work. It would only go to one side, which is why it made sense to be the relay board, but that doesn't seem to have fixed it. I mention only on the odd chance that those are related.
-------
Now to figure out the rex. Realized I put the legs on backwards, I thought I was playing an EM for a bit
Welp, all that messing with the rex and it must have been that same fuse, or who knows what. But it's working now. So I guess that means my game is 100% operational. Man, been a long process. Need to get some AR glass, every other game I have has it and this is horrible. Boy does a shiny playfield and new everything make the game look nice!
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from chubtoad13:Is that the amber or yellow gun mod? I’ve been looking at that for a couple weeks. Only has amber in stock, I’m not sure how that would look.
That's the yellow. I don't think you would be unhappy with either version, both look awesome.
I'm guessing Greg will add more stock here shortly, I asked him about it. If he is out for some reason we have it on our site for a bit more (pinballmods.co)
Quoted from ChadH:Great. Now get the v.6.00 code update on there!
Is that very new? I bought some ROM chips from someone a while back, maybe I haven't put them in yet. I'll go see what they say on them.
Edit - Ah yeah, I have 6.0 sitting right here from Matt's Basement Arcade or something. I'll pop those in. Need those updates for sure!
Also gotta get one of those GI smoothers.
I was just PMing with him, seeing if he will let me produce more and sell if people want, if not just for me
I'll let you know what he says.
On another note, can someone tell me where the red wire with blue bands goes to on the right side of the playfield? It's under the area where the wire bundle from the ramp gate goes. There is a junction block mounted under the playfield and I just need a pic of where the red/blue goes.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from shirkle:Check this diode as well. Mine appears to be turned 90° compared to yours, but you can see where they all connect here.[quoted image]
That's the pic I needed. I wasn't sure what part of that connection block it went to (that's where it was pulled from). Thanks!!
Quoted from evileye:Color me intrigued. Please continue to share what you come up with.
I’m a fan. Once I get my game I’ll definitely be purchasing some of those. Nice work as per usual.
For sure. Waiting on some LEDs to be delivered and testing out some different color flames. I'll post an update soon.
Quoted from evileye:Cool! Will the doors open like that other one, or will they be static?
I hadn't thought about opening the doors, but I suppose that is possible. What triggers them to open? When the red lights are on? I hadn't seen the other one. I have some tiny motors and servos here for another project that I could test out for this. I don't think the doors will fully open right now due to the geometry but I think we could make that happen.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, here was Tim's (opens with bone busting mode):
Can someone who owns this mod post any instructions it came with and close up photos of the components? Would love to figure out if I can convert my Tim's static gate to a motion one.
AH cool, thanks. Not sure it would be worth it to go that far with it, how many people would really even be interested.
Guess someone already did the flickering lights, lol.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I have his static gate (previous owner purchased it), but really wish it was the animated one. The key is whatever board he created and the software to go with it that triggers the gates open and closed when the modes start and end.
Yeah, we can do it with an arduino. It's just the development time to engineer the mech and write the code versus how many we could sell and at what price. I'll mess around with it a bit an see how hard it will be to adapt this gate to open.
Thanks for the input. Anyone want to share a pic of the gate mechanism on Tims? We have our own ideas but it would be nice to see what he did. I'm working on a test of the motors now and talking to partner about modifying the design to suit. I could open up pre-orders and let people get in on a bulk order thing if they wanted but otherwise we would just list it in our store for purchase.
Heh, ok, we're working on it to see what it will take. I don't think we would do the backdrop picture, although I guess it could be an option. I don't personally see the need for it. Since it would be arduino controlled I'll see if we can come up with some other options. I think setting light color and flicker amounts or other effect options would be nice. No need to choose color ahead of time when ordering. Maybe you want the lights on all the time, maybe you want the smaller ones to light up with the gate opens. Or maybe dim most of the time and then bright when the gate opens. All possible. We don't half ass stuff.
Quoted from outcida:What's up my JP peeps! I'm gone for a minute and I see people are making all kinds of versions of my gate. I always have people reaching out to see if I'm still making them but I've been swamped with my Escape Room business I opened plus the full time job. I actually got on here to see if there was any interest in a short run of gates as I'm on quarantine just like everyone else and have some time on my hands. I think I have all the parts to make some static ones but would need some significant interest to make the functioning version as I have to order more PCBs.
Cool, let us know if you are going to make more moving ones and we'll hold off, don't need to compete with you.
Quoted from jorro:Harry
tim
Maybe you guys could team up?
Will save you both a lot of time
Sounds like Tim has it under control (I would defer to him since it's his mod) but if he needs anything from us we're here. Happy to assemble, stock, etc. Whatever he needs.
Ok, so I'm playing on the new code and I am wondering about a few things.
1. The random skill shot is great and all, but doesn't everyone just wait till the dino walks back and then shoot it? The only time it makes sense going forward is when the one poses for the camera (heh).
2. It seems like the random "shoot the video dino" has messed up video now. Maybe it's just me but I never see it "blow up" so I have to keep pulling the trigger until I think it's enough.
3. It would be really nice if the game restart used the ball in the shooter lane instead of having to cycle it through, look for the missing ball, etc.
4. I don't know if this is easily moddable, but if the Diagnostics menu respected the reverse button it would be nice. Adjustments does.
5. Another nice feature would be an instant "don't eat the ball" by holding both flippers down or pulling the trigger or something. Sometimes I just want to keep going and not have him eat it.
Is the dude who did this still working on it? Maybe I can suggest some items, but if anyone has input would love to hear. I love the bypass the rex check on start, great feature. The random modes is perfect as well.
Does anyone have geometry problems with the left loop? I've always struggled through there and I know it's a tight shot but it feels almost impossible. I picked up the left and right side rubbers along that loop and set them on top of the metal "rails" that are under the rubbers. I think they are sitting out too far, at least that is what it looks like when I take the "ball view" of the loop. Anything I should adjust?
Same question for the ball launch. I think this has been covered many times before but aside from changing the metal guide rail position is there anything else? I shopped the whole game, coil rebuilds on all, so it should theoretically be performing well but I constantly get shots that are too long or short. I don't recall it being so bad before I shopped it. I've adjusted the rail several times but no matter what the shot is inconsistent. I'm half tempted to just get a new coil to rule that out.
Quoted from outcida:As I was going through my inventory I found a bunch of parts to make more of the East Dock signs. Any interest in those? Same price as before. $19.99.
Pic? I can almost guarantee there is interest. People love your mods.
For the right side VUK does the switch armature go above the white ball seat? I believe it goes below but something happened and my switch isn't getting depressed enough now to trigger. Everything looks fine, if I nudge it down it triggers. Just rebuilt everything and it was working.
Quoted from shirkle:The actuator should rest below the white plastic. Mine is actually having the opposite problem from yours- it will occasionally activate 2 or 3 extra times after popping a ball out. I think the white part comes back down so fast that it activates the switch again and does this several times in a row.
Sounds like we need switch adjustments. I'm going to bend my wire out more so it actuates quicker.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Sounds like we need switch adjustments. I'm going to bend my wire out more so it actuates quicker.
FYI my switch was broken/on the way out. I swapped the wire arm to another switch and works perfect now. I didn't replace any working micro switches in my refurb, not wanting to throw away working parts.
Quoted from jorro:Isnt there a spring in the white pastic base?
Yeah, either that needs some extension to prevent the bounce or the switch armature.
Ummm..."Upper flippers both have been rebuilt" ?
There is only one upper flipper. You sure you're on the right game?
Does the flipper have a good gap?
Does it move fine manually when the game is off? Have you replaced the sleeve?
Quoted from peteyhugs:Quick question on turn up during T-Rex diagnostics should music be playing? Mine doe not have any music playing during T-Rex Diagnostics, one test complete music starts up. Is that the way it is supposed to be?
Sounds right.
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Ronkonkoma, NY
London, ON