(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

7 years ago

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58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (7 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (7 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (6 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (6 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (6 years ago)

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#5042 2 years ago

Just picked up a JP this afternoon from an estate sale for 3500cdn. This is my first pinball machine so I wasn’t too sure what to look for. It’s been HUO for at least 10 years as the owner told me it was in the house when they bought it. It seems to be all original and played fine albeit the angle was very flat so the machine played very slow. This thing is sooo heavy! Glad I had 2 people with me to help lift it up the 10 stairs to get it to the car. Are there any maintenance items I should be looking for and replacing?

#5053 2 years ago

Well that JP I picked up has a problem with the T rex. It does the chomp but doesn’t move side to side or lower it’s head to eat the ball. I can hear the motors working and what sounds like gears grinding. Is there an easy way to access the gearboxes for this guy?

#5056 2 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

There is many things that could be the cause. Many threads as well, definitely try testing the switches first before assuming it's a gearbox
Here is one discussion

I flipped the Playfield up and checked the connections. Everything looks okay on the outsid so I pushed the head of the T. rex down and now that mechanism works again. I guess it wasn’t engaging and I pushed it back into place. So now it will eat, but no side to side motion. I can live with that for now.

#5079 2 years ago

I'm not sure if my switch is triggering properly for my control room shot.

How is the control room activation supposed to work? If the light on top of the hole is yellow does it mean it should activate if I sink a ball into it?

It seems kinda spotty right now. Is my best bet to just replace the 500-5700-00 switch? It appears to be discontinued, but can any micro switch work in its place?

#5082 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Hitting the power shed scoop in the upper right lights the control room, or when the ball goes down an inlane the control room will blink for a moment.
When the yellow lamp is lit or blinking the control room scoop should start a mode.
That switch can fail and the wires can come loose frequently, and sometimes the ball bounces over it. I have my switch mounted at an angle and bent high enough that it always registers. You can use the switch test mode to try it manually with the ball to verify it works reliably.

I was checking out the switch last night and the wiring and diode looked okay. I guess I should check them out with a multimeter too.

Should I put the table in the service position while testing this out? Or is pulling the glass and dropping a ball in the hole sufficient?

1 week later
#5220 2 years ago

I posted these in the 3D printing thread, but figured they belong here too.

I'm working on my own 3D printed gate replacement and scoop light up signs. Drawn up in Fusion 360 from scratch. The plan is to use 3mm and 5mm LEDs on the gate for "flames" and maybe reusing the existing lighting for the scoops signs. If I print the signs in Natural translucent PLA and paint the depressed areas in black I should get a nice effect (I hope).

JP 3D Printed Gate (resized).jpgJP 3D Printed Signs (resized).png
#5224 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hmmm, I'm interested to see how transparent they come out. In all of my clear PLA printing, the thicker things printed in clear are the more milky they become. Still translucent, however. I've never tried clear PET, so don't know if that is any better or not at maintaining transparency.
Also, why is the face of the two posts so rough? Is that by design for texture or just the way it came out? What orientation did you print them in?

It was printed face down with bed supports so it ended up with a rougher texture when I pulled it off. I’m printing it again right now with it facing up so I’ll post it in comparison if you’re interested.

#5226 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Ahh, the remnants of a raft.
Also, I don't know about your printer, but with my Prusa MK3 I can change filament based upon the current print layer. This would be ideal for the Jurassic Park sign that spans the top of the two pillars. The arch could be the same color as the pillars while the sign could be red/orange and yellow with layer changes.

Yea that would be ideal, although I would have to buy those colours haha. I'm running an Ender3 with Octopi.

I haven't explored all its features as most of the items I've printed in the past have been more functional than decorative. Does it basically just pause during the print to let you load in the new colour?

#5261 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You need to check out the Titan database for Jurassic Park: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/2603
Just click on each user link and you can see what they went with. Not that you have to copy exactly, but it's a good reference point for what is needed.

I used the latest version to order my set from Titan, I changed the colours to more greens instead of blues though. They shipped out a couple days ago. Between these and the comet LEDs I ordered, plus the DIY stadium lighting, back lighting and 3D printed stuff I'm working on, I think I'm set for projects on this machine haha.

1 week later
#5292 2 years ago

It seems that my upper flipper is a bit weak, I'm having trouble making the top loop shot. Is there anything I should check or clean? Or should I just order a rebuild kit for it?

On another note, I put Titan rubbers in last week and am really happy with the way the game plays now especially the control on the lower flippers. There are a couple rubbers that require a bit more of a tear down which I'm saving for when I go to install my LEDs which conveniently arrived today from comet.

1 week later
#5347 2 years ago

I had the same problem with mine when I first got it. Bending the piece of metal on the rollover switch worked for me. Also check the diode on the roll over switch it’s prone to breaking at the solder joint.

#5351 2 years ago

Sometimes bending the little piece of metal that extends into the subway helps it register. I found that the ball would like jump over the contact, so bending it upwards a bit helped force the ball to make contact with it.

#5382 2 years ago

Finally got my 3D gate to where I like it. It hooks into the existing wiring, no gator clips or soldering. Made little clear prints flames too.

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#5416 2 years ago

I had the same setup as you, one metal post on the right hand outlane and no post on the left but a hole predrilled for one. I also added a rubber ring on the right hand post since it seemed odd that you would have an exposed metal post for the ball to bump into.

I was thinking of installing a post in the left outlane since I'm not having much luck nudging this machine during play (maybe I don't know the correct technique?) and the ball seems to gravitate to that lane when it's bumping around.

#5433 2 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

I dont know where to buy the chad rom. Point me in that direction and i will !

Matts basement arcade sells the chadh 6.0 rom set.


#5475 2 years ago

Top flipper rebuild kit question. Mine feel very weak, so I'm guessing they need a rebuild. Do I just order this kit, but right side only? Should I replace the coil as well?


#5480 2 years ago

Nicely done!

I think between you, me and a couple other members with 3D printers we'll be able to keep the JP toy store going for everyone.

#5551 2 years ago

I’m having T. rex side to side issues too but I’m waiting to fix my getaway flippers before I start disassembling another one of my pins. I can hear the motor or gears grinding but there’s no movement. Up and down works fine though.

#5554 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Looks like I'm one Super Mario Bros. behind your collection. Funny thing is, I had the chance to get one really cheap about a year or so ago, but somebody beat me to it.

Haha, yea I thought the same thing when I saw your collection.

Funny how we're also both doing 3D printing stuff too.

We're like pin twins here

#5577 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Pictures would be worth a thousand words here. Can someone please post some close up pics of how the Pteranodons are mounted?

Here’s what they look like on my machine.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5579 2 years ago

Strange, it's uploaded through the forum's attach images so it should work.

I believe that rubber was there when I replaced everything with Titan's. The only extra rubber ring I added was on the outlane of the right side, it was a bare post and since the ball was prone to hitting it I figured a piece of rubber was a good idea to prevent metal-metal contact.

#5586 2 years ago

Nice job, but did you miss a dot over the ramp's jackpot flasher?

Next step would be to add the recommended colours for some of the lights, especially the inserts.

ie. the scoops lights need 3 x Green #555 for the uppers and 2 x Yellow #555 and 1 x Blue #555 for the lowers.

The virtual pin playfield is really handy for this, I wonder if it would be better to overlay text on it? Or label it with numbers and then reference a list?

Something like this? I can work on this, if it'll help out others too. Just need to know what format people think is best.
Jurassic Park LED locations_test (resized).png

#5591 2 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Yep I update it. Anyone can do whatever they want with the pics. Figured it was way better than the manual. I didn't bother color matching except for the Trex lights in the apron, scoop lights, shoot trex light, and the gate lights.

Totally, the manual is terrible when it comes to lights and rubber information.

I'm actually surprised at how hard it is to find really good, clear information on LED and rubber locations for each machine. When I did my JP I counted them all myself but didn't account for the 555s that are used for some of the inserts, I had thought they were all 44s... Noobie mistake.

#5652 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Oh, I disagree. I use 13 SMD flashers in both my pins and love them (https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/13smdg18tower.htm)!
It is purely a personal preference, but I like the flashers actually impacting my visual senses. I first used more modest flashers and ended up sending them all back. I just didn't like that they didn't draw my attention at all due to being so muted. If you do go with the ones I link to above, you just need to be sure you have clearance for them wherever you want to use them (they are fairly tall). In some areas on my Getaway I had to use spacers to lower the socket further below the playfield, and on JP in a couple of spots use washers/nuts to raise the lens a little.
A couple of other decisions you will need to make are which white (warm, natural/cool, sunlight) and color matching inserts or not. Personally, I prefer the natural/cool white as they really brighten up the playfield and bring out the coloring of the artwork. The warm whites more resemble the original incandescent bulbs, but to me they just make things look dingy and dark. Of course, then you need to figure out frosted or non-frosted or no lens at all (I prefer non-frosted/no-lens for inserts and frosted for GI). I'm one who matches bulb color to insert color, but others will tell you this is a faux pas. I also prefer to only use white for all GI as it brings out the color of the plastics and the playfield artwork versus using colored GI (have to be careful with color GI or pics of your in will show up in the Rainbow Puke thread 8).
Finally, for the GI and insert bulbs, make sure you purchase the non-ghosting versions. Otherwise the faint flicker all over the playfield will drive you nuts.

The flashers on JP seem to be quite the hot topic. I personally found the flashers too intense when I swapped them over to 8 SMD LEDs. I ended up changing the one on the right playfield to a Jeep with LED headlight flashers and white underglow and removed the one on the left for now.

GI I found sunlight white works really well, it's not dingy like the warm whites but not super harsh like the bright whites. I picked up some of the super bright GI lights (optix maximus) from comet on my latest order, so I'm curious to see how much brighter they are. I'm running DIY pin stadium lights in my JP, but I think these could really help brighten up the back corners. I'll be testing them in my Getaway and my Super Mario Bros.

I personally do not like colour GI at all, I find it washes out the artwork. For backbox it can be okay (red in the sky of JP), but otherwise I stick with white frosted lights. I do colour match inserts though, I find it makes the colours really vibrant. Lighting some of the larger inserts evenly can be a bit tricky though, I haven't found a solution I'm happy with yet.

#5655 2 years ago

Shout out to edward472 for making that location chart for all the lights.

I decided to take it one step further and map out every location with descriptions and a suggested LED type for those who are starting out from scratch.

The 2nd sheet is a pivot table to help break down the data into a more manageable count, it should make ordering easier.

Please have a look and let me know what you guys think. Thanks!


#5682 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Probably has a coil stop that's more worn. I lost about 1" of range when i replaced the coil stops with new ones, they were super beat up though, the linkage was hitting the coil actually. I did a full flipper rebuild and replaced everything.

I just rebuilt the flippers on my getaway and it looked like the flippers had less range then before. The old stops were pretty worn down so that would make a lot of sense.

I also rebuilt the upper right flipper on my JP and it really helped with making the helicopter shot.

#5694 2 years ago

I find shooting the left loop so it rolls over onto the top right flipper is usually how I end up hitting it.

3 weeks later
#5865 2 years ago

My best game is a hair over 500M. I too save my Smart missile for CHAOS, but only if I'm about to drain. I just found the boat dock dinosaur thing out last night. It definitely helps with a couple of the trickier dinos in the center targets.

I noticed that in my high score game I had triggered Stampede along with another mode and my Stampede score got up to 60M, I'm still trying to figure out what stacked with it to get it up that high.

I've only got to system shutdown twice, and both times did not net me a high score. CHAOS seems to be the way to go, I got the the 2nd 50M T-Rex shot going once.

This game really compliments my Getaway which has less in game modes, but plays way faster. It seems on days when I'm playing one game poorly I get a really good score on the other.

#5917 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Whelp, I cheated. I added a post on the left outlane but finally got to total system shutdown. Gotta open the lanes back up a bit. This game is still my favorite.

I ended up doing the same, the left out lane was frustrating many of my friends and family. Figured it was better to put it in and let people have more fun on it.

#5946 1 year ago

I'll give a +1 to comet as well. I love their sunlight white option, imo it's the perfect blend between cool and warm white. Works great in the GI of every game that has warmer coloured plastics. Their Optix line of GI lights are awesome and their matrix line makes adding in extra lighting really easy. The 6.3V light strips are super handy.

#6016 1 year ago

Spent some time this afternoon installing my Electric Fence mod. It’s 3D printed to match the fence in the original movie. It has an EL wire hooked up to a 12v adapter plugged into the service port, 2 red LEDs that mimic the T. rex shot lamp and 4 yellow & blue LEDs that mimic the electric fence mode lamp. What do you guys think?

6EB5F6FA-A4B1-40FB-8B0B-91D71E62A0BB (resized).jpeg
#6021 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I would say as a concept it is great, and I love seeing someone actually developing something people in this thread have been discussing and wishing for.
However, to offer constructive criticism it looks a little bulky, and I wonder about the view from the player's perspective (how much of T-Rex does it block?) I would work on a design that thins the width of the 3 posts (maybe the two outers to the same width as the LEDs with the middle even thinner), and I would use thinner cables (e.g. maybe some straight piano wire instead of looping back whatever thicker material you are using now. Using really thin piano wire would not be as visually blocking and you might even be able to add an extra cable or two. If you were able to use 5-6V LEDs then you could just jumper them off a nearby GI light socket.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the feedback. My original concept was to use a thin stranded wire instead of the EL, so maybe I’ll build that one too for comparison. That will let me thin out the posts like you said.

I’m currently using EL wire that lights up so it required thicker posts and supports to accommodate it.

From the players perspective it doesn’t block the T-Rex in the upright position but it does block the saucer a bit, that’s why I added the red LEDs to match the shot light.
I was also thinking of making a version that replaces the T. rex shot when lit box that way it doesn’t interfere with the T. rex at all. I just have to figure out a way to integrate the spot light.

The only problem with tying into GI is that they become just static. I like having them match up with game modes.

#6035 1 year ago

I modeled up a revised thinner version removing the EL-wire portion and replacing it with piano wire, but keeping the 4 warning lights and the two lights in the base. I set it up to print over night but forgot to check on it this morning. I'll have a look when I get home from work this afternoon.

My idea right now is to wire up the blue/yellow warning lights to the T-Rex shot and then hook up the two base lights to either the pop bumpers or into the Electric Fence mode light. What would people prefer?

Wrapping the fence along the entire back section might be a bit tricky as I don't think there are a lot of places to anchor it. Although EL wire along the whole back section would look pretty neat. That would be quite the $$$ mod though. I think sub $100 mods are a lot more palpable for most people.

#6038 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm going to work on the back fence version after I get a couple of other projects knocked out. I already know how I will anchor it, will need to figure out how best to print (will need to be in pieces that assemble together), and also thinking through the blue & amber indicator lighting (I assume 3mm LEDs, but not sure how best to connect them or have them interact). Since it is in back of everything, the EL lighted cables might be well suited.

Cool yea I saw that your working on a getaway supercharger chaser with the assignable led strips. I’ve got that project on my list too lol, parts are sitting waiting for install.

I’m using 3mm LEDs for the warning lights and 5mm for the base. To keep a thin profile I think 3mm are the max.

EL needs 12V DC so it’s a bit trickier getting it tapped in and interactive, otherwise I would’ve just hooked it into the GI. I feel EL makes it look more “electric.” I originally planned to tap the bumper lights and have the wires flash to match them. I think I figured out the wiring (12v zener diode + resistor) to make that work. The tricky part is making it plug and play. My current version requires some soldering on the back end.

#6040 1 year ago

Right now I solder 2 leds in series along with a resistor (forgot its rating) and tap into the 6.3v 555 insert bulb for electric fence mode. It flashes when the mode is up next and stays lit when you’re in the mode.

Thinking about it, it might make more sense to tie those 3mm warning lights into the T. rex shot and use the base lights to flash with pops or electric fence mode.

If I keep the EL wire it also could serve as an indicator of electric fence mode or could be lit all the time. I haven’t figured out the wiring to keep something lit and have it flash. I’m guessing I’d need some sort of relay to get this kind of function. Arduino or Tiny could do something like this for sure but then the barrier to entry becomes higher.

#6046 1 year ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Only concern I have is if it will clutter everything up in that area--any way to remove the "Shoot T-Rex" box by combining it's signage and light alert into the fence as well? I see it as almost a single red alert light at the top of a fence post near the current "Shoot T-Rex" box area. I always thought that box was something that could be removed and the space repurposed.

Yes, this is definitely possible. I was looking at the box and I could integrate the spot light into the design, it would be plug and play since the lamp uses flat connectors. Same with the red flasher, which I'm already using in my design. The flasher socket is soldered so it would have to be chopped out. It's riveted to the box too, so cutting the wire seems like the easiest solution to remove it from the area. It would have to be soldered back on if someone wanted to remove the mod.

I test fit V2 of the fence without the EL wire this evening. I uploaded 2 pictures to show the difference between the two. I printed it in brown because I'm starting to run out of grey filament. I used 2 different wires since I had both on hand to check. The silver wire will probably work better because it will reflect more of the base lighting. Next version will have slightly thicker posts to stiffen the structure up a bit. I'm afraid that it might break by a fly ball with the current thicknesses.

Here's a video of the EL version in full operation in case anyone was curious how the flashers work in V1.

IMG_2257 (resized).jpgIMG_2299 (resized).jpgIMG_7667 (resized).jpg
#6063 1 year ago

My day job (mechanical engineer) doesn’t allow for much creativity, so being able to design and 3D print stuff is a really good outlet. I try to create things I actually want in my games and if I can make a version of it that other people appreciate then I don’t mind making some modifications. Any money I make from selling mods I put back into my games and buying filament. I find it really cool that people like the gate I make enough to want it in their machine.

For the fence I’m currently printing a slimmer version of the EL wire version. I’m going to hook up yellow EL wire to the bumper flashers this time to see how it looks. I’ll also print out a beefier version of the Piano wire version and see how it holds up in the game. The version I showed above is too thin and I think a fly ball could take it out. I’m play testing my first version so I’ll see how it stands up. I’ve got titan rubber so fly balls are pretty common lol.

#6068 1 year ago

Yea there's definitely a balance to strike when adding mods otherwise it can become too busy. I was playing GB LE on the weekend and I was surprised to see how many "toys" that game has. I played the Premium version a few months ago and it felt like it had a lot less.

Replacing the T-Rex shoot when lit box seems to be the most obvious choice since it doesn't really fit in with the theme of the game, seems like a bit of an afterthought by the designers really. Let's just stick a box here with a flasher. Lighting up the saucer makes a lot more sense for the T-Rex shot. Maybe also changing the spot light colour from white to red when the saucer shot is active would also be a good visual indicator.

#6070 1 year ago

The T. rex break out scene does show a similar sign. The guy runs past it on his way to the outhouse before he gets eaten. Maybe making a larger version of that to replace the T. rex box would work...

Check it out at 1:23

#6073 1 year ago

Heres one on sketch up that looks like it could be a good base. Making a similar flat sign in fusion wouldn’t take long just need to make a nice decal like you said.


#6082 1 year ago

I could print the base out of grey PLA and the center part (or just the T-rex circle) with translucent. Stick a decal over the translucent part and light it up with some red LEDs.

I think the loopcombo scoops are plexiglass or lexan? Translucent PLA is a bit better for diffusion of LEDs imo. Also easier to work with since I'm not set up to cut plexi.

The current light socket for the T-rex lamp is plugged in using flat connectors and I have the correct female connectors from my Gate mod so I could make it plug and play with that light. The only thing to consider is what to do with the spot light and flasher that are inside that box. The flasher is soldered in, so it would have to be cut out. The spot light has flat connectors, so it's easy to remove/rewire.

I'll try to whip something up in Fusion tonight as a base to get started.

#6085 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Or maybe a marble PLA? I've used 3D solutech for projects and really like how it came out.
amazon.com link »

Oh interesting... I'll see what amazon.ca offers for marble texture and order a roll. I'll prototype in brown for now to figure out the scale.

Edit: Found it for $22CDN, ordered a roll along with a glass bed for my Ender 3. Should arrive tomorrow! Gotta love Prime next day shipping.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think most people would be able to re-wire easily enough. I was hoping the existing lights could fit inside the box, sort of like it does now. Can you print a somewhat hollow box? I'm totally in for this if it's not ridiculously expensive. Heck, I'd be happy to even design the graphics and get them printed out on clear sticker paper.
The flasher could be made smaller, doesn't have to be a 89 base (I think that is what it is) could be a small wedge connector, comet sells flasher bulbs that would work.

The costs won't be as high as the gate for sure, there are a lot less components and the wiring will be easier. The gate is tricky to assemble given the size constraints of the posts and the LED holders.

This is more of an open box design, so assembly should be easier (in theory).

#6093 1 year ago

Okay I whipped together something in Fusion 360 with the rough dimensions I took from the original box. It's going to be a bit narrower since I measured 65mm wide x 70mm tall and it looked too boxy.

Right now I've got 4 - 3mm LEDs in the back of the T-Rex Disc to light it up. Thoughts?

T-Rex Stand v1 (resized).pngT-Rex Stand v1 back (resized).png
#6098 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Also agree on this.
Excited, so I had to do a quick shitty photoshop. I think with the gate (and maybe electric fence, if someone makes it) it would be a perfect compliment.
[quoted image]

Gotcha, I’ll print it out tonight with some provisions to mount the existing flasher and see how I can make it work. I have the day off tomorrow so I’ll have a chance to play around with it some more.

Appreciate everyone’s feedback on this design.

Also I have v2 of the electric fence working with yellow EL wire tied into the bumper flashers so I’ll try to get that installed alongside it.

I have a third project on the go to replace the launcher flat plastic cover (the purple/yellow gun piece). I printed out v1 yesterday. Hopefully I’ll have it wired up this weekend. I think it’s a small cool looking mod.

Also worked on your gate harryhoudini I started wiring it up last night so should have it done soon.

This game is keeping me busy!

#6101 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Sweet... I'm in for the T-Rex box mod and the shooter lane one, maybe even the fence. Make me a package!

Definitely will. You'll be my #1 customer

Quoted from JohnJN:

geteos -- Pics of the gun launch replacement! Definitely interested in the T-rex sign as well.

I still have to add the LEDs to it, but I'm hoping to have it test fitted tonight. I'm planning on tying the lights into the Smart Launcher Button. That way you get a visual indicator on the play surface for it. I'm really happy with the way the purple part looks, the yellow filament I used doesn't print very well so I might have to find a different way to make the barrel. I'm still trying to figure out how best to do the honeycomb design on it. Probably have to go decal.

#6107 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Funny . . . I've had this game for a couple of months and just now realized that piece was supposed to be the top view of a gun. In looking at it, it would be fairly easy to create the honeycomb as part of the print with layer printing as long as you kept the object fairly two-dimensional. This way below the honeycomb could be yellow and the barrel gray/black or whatever color you are doing it. Now you have me wanting to tinker, but I'll wait to see what you come up with.

I have it curved right now. I’m trying to use the project to feature in fusion to make the honey comb bend around but haven’t gotten it to work yet. My v1 is omitting this detail but I’ll continue to work on it. I might try to make the honeycomb a separate layer printed in black.

#6109 1 year ago

So my v1 is a few mm too tall. So I’m going to slice some off the bottom and reprint. But here’s a taste of what I’m going for.

8B6BCFEE-7DC1-4CD6-8B15-FD9C19E68C8C (resized).jpeg9228C733-C8F2-475F-BAD2-D81DE80FCE8B (resized).jpeg
#6113 1 year ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

I think geteos is going to need a Pinside store soon

I actually opened one to sell my gate but then took it down because I wasn’t quite ready yet. Once I have couple designs finalized and build a few for inventory I’ll open it up again. Appreciate everyone’s interest!

#6118 1 year ago

V2 of the T. rex box printed in marble. Same depth as the original box to hide the flasher. Still need to figure out mounting the spot and other bulb. I’ll probably convert the other bulb into 5mm leds which will plug into the leads of the old bulb to keep it plug and play.

I have to pick up some decal paper to print the 3 stickers. Probably won’t happen till Tuesday when I’m back at work and can use the colour laser printer. Let me know what you guys think!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#6125 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If you are going to put a decal there, I would suggest making it a common size that you can purchase a circle cutter or punch for instead of something odd.
Also, is the T-Rex insert circle 1" (right size for a starburst insert?)

Right now it is 22mm to match the scaled decal circle. My plan was to print a translucent plug to go into the hole that holds 4 LED's and wire them up to plug into the existing wiring. This would replace the current T-Rex light. My reasoning was so that you wouldn't need to unrivet the current socket from the metal box.

Quoted from winteriscoming:

To top circle seems to be proportionally too large, compared to what's in the movie. Unless you're wanting to put some legible info in there, I'd recommend going smaller.

Yea, looking at the screen from the movie, it looks like the circle center is in line with the top and is about 1/3 of the width (16.7mm in my model). I tried this out right now and 1/3 looked a bit too small, so I increased it about 22mm wide. I think it looks better.

I test fit my new fence and the stand inside the game. I was able to transfer over the spot light into the box. It press fits onto a nub I print on the back. I will change this to a screw hole in the final version.
IMG_2505 (resized).jpg

#6127 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm thinking the gun handle and original plastic aren't even representing a prop found in the movie. I have always thought of the plastic up top as being part of the gun, but no clue what the artist referenced to come up with it.
I'm not sure what to make of the 3D version. Is it based off of something? It kind of ends up looking like a laser gun.

It's based off the picture printed on the plastic. The way the shading comes across to me it looks like a circular barrel so that's what I went with. My thinking is that it is supposed to be a sci-fi -ish stun gun. Where the energy is stored in the yellow chamber.

But also, if you look at the actual gun on the machine. The barrel is also round and matches the aesthetic. So I think it follows pretty well.

detail (resized).jpg
#6133 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

I thought it was supossed to be the electric stun pole/gun from the start of the movie to control the raptors
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Ah that would make sense! I was looking at screen caps trying to find it. Good stuff!

I’ll print it in black to see how it’ll look. My only concern is that it’ll blend in with the apron, might lose a bit of its detail.

#6139 1 year ago
Quoted from newovad:

Well, now the mod needs to be increased to go all the way down the shooter lane. Gotta be true to the movie.

I could extend it all the way to line up with the edge of the apron. Does anyone have the movie in 4K that could get a good pic showing the pattern on the outer diameter of the weapon?

#6148 1 year ago

JP with the chadh 6.0 code is a surprisingly well balanced game for its age and there are a lot of opportunities for customization with it.

My printer has been busy the last 24 hours pumping out revisions. The revised gun barrel fit perfectly under the glass so I'm working on the lighting now. I'll print a 2nd copy of it in black with a yellow barrel for those interested in that colour combo.

I modified the T-Rex stand and shrunk the no photography circle. I'm now working on fitting the flasher into it. It's going to require drilling out the rivet or purchasing a 2nd bayonet mount with an L bracket like so:

I'll probably have to include some butt splice connectors for people who aren't comfortable with soldering so they can just snip off the wiring from the old bulb, strip off a bit of wire and then just crimp the two wires together. Should make it a bit cleaner and secure vs just twisting the wires together.
Screen Shot 2019-05-18 at 6.46.50 PM (resized).pngT-Rex Stand v4 (resized).png

#6151 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm gonna stop replying "awesome" to every update, just assume that I'm posting that each time.

Haha, I appreciate everyone's enthusiasm. I'm really happy that so many people are interested in these. This game definitely deserves some cool mods. I've got another one in my head involving Mr. DNA for the left hand scoop. But I know a lot of people already have the loop combo mod, so I'm not sure how easily I can get it to play nice with that one.

#6158 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

Ok, whatever happens next i'm not admitting to my wife that she's right that i am a little colorblind
She says the signs on JP are dark green behind the logo??
You see black also right?
[quoted image]

I think it's a reflection of the grass around the sign. I'm guessing the sign was painted in a gloss black, so it would reflect the grass around it causing the dark greenish look.

That's the story I'm telling myself

#6167 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

One coat of gloss before I start working on the lifting and missing decals.
[quoted image]

Wow very nice, how did you do the clear coat? DIY spray gun?

#6173 1 year ago

I was hoping you were going to say Spraymax lol. I plan on using it on the F-14 that I’m restoring. I can’t justify buying all the spray equipment for one playfield and have read some good stuff about the canned 2 part stuff on here. You’ve just cemented my choice.

#6174 1 year ago

My internet has been down since yesterday so I’ve had a lot of time to work on my mods. I’ve got the T. rex stand all figured out. I made a custom insert with 4 red LEDs that replaces the T. rex light. It’s plug and play with the stock wiring. Just have to print the decals and I think I’m done!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#6178 1 year ago

Put in all the mods just now, I am really happy with how everything came out. I think the scale of everything works really nicely now. I couldn’t get the EL to work the way I wanted it to so I went with yellow LEDs and thin wire instead. The gun is tied into the GI because I realized that it would be pretty difficult to swing the playfield up if it was connected to the gun.

64C1674A-115A-4FAC-9416-A2CE7B6B7E10 (resized).jpeg8D1C7B97-3814-4D12-828E-A33C25860768 (resized).jpeg
#6183 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you just drill out the rivets on the existing box to reuse the light sockets?

Yup, but you only need to do it to the flasher, the spot light is bolted in. I’d recommend using a dremel with a grinding disk to take out the rivet though.

I need to try to source some of the flasher sockets with the right angle bracket. Anyone know where I can find them?

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Guessing the answer is probably no, but can the box have a top?

Yea I can put a top on the box if you’d like one. I’ll print one out next with the top on.

#6188 1 year ago

Perfect! Thanks! I'm going to order a bunch so that people don't need to remove the original one from their T-Rex boxes. When possible I like to make every mod reversible.

#6202 1 year ago

I played for about a month without hole protectors and noticed a fairly big difference in shot required to make the A hole. I got my protectors off ebay from a guy in Portugal, so I'm not sure how much they differ in terms of design. Do the Cliffy's bend over time and start to contour around where the hole wear was? Mine are starting to do this and the edges are starting to lift a bit. Before the protectors the ball would sometimes just roll into the hole, now the shot has to be very deliberate.

I also run Titan silicone and find that the bounce back from them can cause a lot of fly balls. I played on another JP recently without them and noticed a difference in the speed of the game without them. The titan's make it a bit more "twitchy" to play. I've adapted to it and don't mind especially after adding the extra post in the left outlane. Without the post, that outlane was the cause of many outbursts...

#6212 1 year ago

The gate I make hooks into the the existing gate 2 bulb wiring, and I don't believe the lights stay steady on for much during the game, they're usually flashing. So if I used flickering LEDs the effect wouldn't really come through.

It would be possible to tie the top two 5mm LEDs into the GI and make those flicker LEDs always on and then leave the other 6 middle LED's to do the flashing. Once I wrap up the other mods, I'll revisit the gate some more.

How long til you start repopulating the top side?

#6226 1 year ago

After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.

Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun!

T-Rex Gate Lit (resized).jpgT-Rex Gate (resized).jpgStun Gun Lit (resized).jpgGun Unlit (resized).jpg
#6236 1 year ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Looks great. Well done. Let us know when they will be for sale and how to buy them

Yup, just waiting on some of the flasher bulb holders from Macro then I'll have 5 of the T-Rex boxes ready to go. Hopefully sometime next week.

I can sell them without the bulb holder right now if people are willing to take out the existing bulb holder from their game (requires you to drill or grind it out of the metal box).

I'll work on getting a pinside store set up tonight to host all the items. They're going to be listed at (USD) $65 for the T-Rex box ($60 w/o the bulb holder). $40 for the gun topper. I'll also put up my JP static gate for $100 and some palm trees with bases for $5/each. Shipping is going to be $15 for North America (tracked/insured). Outside NA it'll be whatever the actual rate Canada Post charges me. You can combine any of the items for the same flat rate.

I'm still working on the electric fence. Now that I have some decal paper I'm going to add something to make the wire area a bit more interesting. I'm also waiting on some #555 sockets to allow it to wire up to the Electric Fence mode without having to modify anything on your game.

1 week later
#6254 1 year ago

For all those interested in my gun launcher and T-Rex box mods, I have completed my first small run (4 of each item) and have them posted in my pinside store which is now live.


#6257 1 year ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Cool hopefully there is some still in stock come payday.

Really the only item that keeps me from making these on demand is the flasher socket because I buy them from Marco.

If you're willing to re-use your existing one or buy it from Marco yourself, then I can produce one in a couple days.

#6264 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

In the picture of the sign mod there looks to be a fence to the right of it. Are you selling this as well? Can we get better pictures of that fence mod also?
Great looking mods by the way.

I do plan on making the fence available in the next week or two. I'm just adding some finishing details and need to assemble a couple before I put it in the store. Thanks!

#6265 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think the part you are looking at in the manual is 500-5679-00 (hard as heck to read) which is this (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5679-00) and the actual switch is just a basic DB3 or DB5 I believe (I have no idea what the differences are) like this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/95-4118-90. You can actually transfer the wireform from the old switch if it is in good condition. Otherwise, if you look on page 27 I believe the individual switch part numbers are listed. I think you want #34 which is 180-5117-00 and no on really has it (http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5117-00) but it looks like this part superceeds it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5198-00

There's a good thread on here about the differences between DB3 and DB5. I attached the relevant picture showing the part number breakdown.


The gist is that DB3 is rated for 0.1A/250V and DB5 is rated for 1A/250V.

When I replaced mine I just grabbed a switch with the same dimensions from a local electronics surplus store and reused the rest of the assembly. The force of the ball rolling through the little wire gate I think is enough to actuate whichever switch you put in. At worst you'll need to bend the wireform.

DB Switches (resized).jpg
#6283 1 year ago

Put the final touch on the electric fence. The 10,000 volt sign makes it complete.

image (resized).jpg
#6285 1 year ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Does it light up?

Yup, the top lights trigger with the T. rex shot when lit and the bottom two yellow LEDs light up with Electric fence mode.

#6290 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

True, true, true. I find it kind of odd that I do repair stuff and their are metal bowels with
leftover screws and whatnot's that the techies and shop-outers have left behind.

I like looking in the cab and finding hidden treasures. Finding receipts from the 90s, old bulbs, hardware... it's like a time capsule!

#6360 1 year ago
Quoted from BleacherBum:

This post is to those of you that have purchased Geteos’s JURASSIC PARK T-REX REPLACEMENT STANDUP BOX.
First, let me say that the box is very nice. I am very pleased. My question concerns installing the flasher and spot lights.
If you have installed your replacement box, may I ask if you would be willing to post a picture of the back side of the box with all lamp connections? I am most likely being an idiot and over looking the obvious, but at the moment I am confused.

Sorry for the delay Phil, normally I can respond pretty quick but I was out today on a day trip for work.

Check your PM for a link to the PDF instructions I just put together for the box install.

In case anyone else is looking for them I put the link into the item description in the store.

#6383 1 year ago

Interesting idea, it'll kind of modernize the apron by doing something like that. Hmm I'm going to have a look at it today to see if I can come up with something too.

#6430 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Done and done!
So whats up with the fence guy? The box looks good, but I cant just have the box all by its lonesome....

I need to print and wire them up. Was taking a couple days off, but I have an order from Germany for a fence so I’ll make a batch and put them in my store this week.

I’m out of sockets for the T. rex box, but I do have a couple 3 smd 12v strips in warm white that I could use instead of the standard socket. Or of course you can always use your original socket if you remove it from the metal box.

#6455 1 year ago

For anyone interested I put up the electric fence mod in my store. I have one finished right now and all subsequent ones will be made to order (3-4 days for production).

3 weeks later
#6613 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I agree. I mentioned it in my Mod video. Best $15 you can spend on an easy mod.

I'll third this opinion, because I installed one in my JP and it is amazing, totally eliminated the glare off the glass. Gave me a chance to clean the speaker panel too (there was some futz between the DMD and the plexiglass.)

1 week later
#6714 1 year ago

Not that I'm in the financial position to buy a new machine, but I don't really see much in the Stern playfield that would make me want to own it over the DE version.

Is there even a gate in it? If not, I'll have to have someone give me the measurements so I can modify mine to fit it

8 months later
#7639 1 year ago

Just wanted to stop in quickly and let people know that I just got a bunch of LED light strips from comet so I should have stock of my yellow gun launcher mod for the foreseeable future.

Unfortunately I traded my JP last month, so I'm no longer part of the club

But I'm glad I'm still able to contribute to so many people's machines. Also I'm always working with harryhoudini to come up with more mods too. He's got some cool things cooking up with my gates.

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