(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

7 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (7 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (7 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (6 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (6 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (6 years ago)


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#4883 2 years ago

I'm trying to join the club. I've been looking for one near me for a few months now. I know prices vary widely based on condition. What's the going rate on a player's condition machine? I figured if anyone would know it would be you guys, and I didn't want to start another price check thread. Thanks in advance.

#4899 2 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

I'm trying to join the club. I've been looking for one near me for a few months now. I know prices vary widely based on condition. What's the going rate on a player's condition machine? I figured if anyone would know it would be you guys, and I didn't want to start another price check thread. Thanks in advance.

bump

#4905 2 years ago

Thanks for the info guys. 2k-3k is where I need to be at to have the machine and stay married. Best of both worlds. I'll keep my eyes peeled. I have seen there is a league here in Columbia run by a local toys and game store. Wish I could get out there, but we just had a little one and he's taking up all our free time at the moment.

#4908 2 years ago

Just a joke. We agreed on a budget. If I blow the budget, I'll be on the couch.... but I'll have a pinball machine

#4912 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

You can sleep under your pinball machine!

Get some blankets and make a really cool fort.

4 weeks later
#5034 2 years ago

Finally joined the club this weekend. Big thanks to sataneatscheese for the lead. 12 hours of driving well worth it. Except for the fact it was working when I picked it up and now it doesn't boot.... gotta find my multimeter.... Either way still psyched

20190211_073408 (resized).jpg
-2
#5059 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Looking for the clear plastic cover part (red circle). I can't find the part number in the manual.
[quoted image]

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5055-02

#5061 2 years ago

Ahh. I see now. Yeah no clue. What is that piece even for?

#5160 2 years ago

Anyone know where I can get a replacement smart missile button plastic? Mine is cracked pretty much all the way across, and I don't think its gonna take the abuse my wife's family is going to put on it when they find out I have a pinball machine.

#5163 2 years ago

Daditude Thank you! Snagged the last one. Now the kids can hammer on the broken one until it fully breaks.

#5171 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

TREX no longer wants to move side to side. I figured out how to re-adjust him so he'll go up and down, but the motor does not seem to want to come on for left to right movement. I was in the machine earlier today and am assuming I bumped something loose but cannot figure it out. I hear a clicking noise in the small thing pictured on the green board but don't see movement when the TREX should be turning. I wanted to know if anybody had any tips before I disassembled the motor. Does anybody know what would cause the left right motor to fail but the up down and chomp to continue working? All the switches in the test mode work here.
Also... on a completely unrelated note... How do I adjust the volume?
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

You can adjust the volume in the adjustments menu or you can turn the volume pot(inside cab to the right next to the service outlet

#5179 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Is there a way I can test the TREX motor and verify that it works or doesn't work? I'm thinking about hooking it up directly to something like a 9 volt battery... If this is a bad idea please let me know. I'm going to head in to the hardware store to get some more solder... would there be anything there more appropriate?

The left/right motor is 5 volts. So, don't attach 9 volt unless you have a way to step done the voltage. If you have a spare PC power supply laying around, you can modify it to make an easy 5V power source to test. Check this link https://makezine.com/projects/computer-power-supply-to-bench-power-supply-adapter/

Also, check the pdf here https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/041-5025-00 if you haven't already.

#5182 2 years ago

I had a weird problem last night on my machine. The guy I bought the machine from said the VUK sometimes wouldn't get the ball all the way to the wire ramp and would fire multiple times before it succeeded. While playing last night, the ball would go into the subway I'd hear the VUK coil fire, but no ball. Wait a bit the game would start firing coils to find the ball, but couldn't. I open the coin door and the ball is sitting in the subway. This happened 3 times out of maybe 20 times the ball went into the subway. Pic attached. Thoughts?

20190218_182150 (resized).jpg
#5195 2 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

I think its called a flipper link ?

Plunger link assembly. But you might as well buy a full flipper rebuild kit if you are taking it out to work on anyway

#5244 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

ebay.com link » Data East Jurassic Park Pinball Machine Smart Missile Button 515 5825 00 New
I dont think they sell the plastic by itself. I looked for a start button a while back, and i had to buy the whole assembly...but there it is.

The ebay listing still shows 1 left, so I can only assume it's a marketing gimmick to get you to purchase it faster since I supposedly purchased "the last one". Got the button in the mail Saturday. For anyone interested, it looks really good. The ring around it is plastic though, but I really only needed the lens.

#5269 2 years ago

1) yes. Pic attached
2) same it just buzzes for a sec it doesn't actually shake
3) no
4)mine has rollers
6) www.pinball.center
7) just disable side to side. The motor is expensive and not worth

20190302_212032 (resized).jpg
#5273 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Just brought home a JP this weekend. Had to replace the connectors on the power supply for the GI lighting, those were burnt to hell.
Couple of questions:
1) Can anyone provide a picture or confirm if there should be posts near the outlanes? Looks like there should be one on the right side for sure, i found 1 picture to validate that. On the left side i'm not sure. On my game someone just drove a screw right into the playfield there, so i've removed that, but want to know if i need to put in a new post there or not.
2) The connector on the PPB for the GI lighting (upper left of board). I replaced that one with a new one and redid the wiring, however the very first pin (far left) doesn't seem to be used. So just want to validate that. Based on the wires i had, and accounting for the key'd hole, i just don't have anything to connect to that far left pin. Everything appears to be working on the game, so not sure!
Thanks!!

The post is up to you. They playfield is dimpled for it. Most I've played don't have a post installed.

My far left pin on J5 is used. Is any of your gi not working?

#5286 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Just gonna be one of those weekends i guess.
The lamps out, i traced to the following... so probably a control issue there...
“C” arch 48
red-gry cn6-9
Yel-blu cn7-7
Left Turbo Bumper 62
Red-blu cn6-7
Yel-gry cn7-9
Then i shorted something and loss the whole column on the switch matrix...
Column 6
Cn8-7

Start here
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

It will walk you through manual testing your switch matrix for issues

#5291 2 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Thanks for posting a knocker photo. My pin is also missing the whole knocker assembly.
Could someone please post a closeup picture of their knocker as I need to see which wire goes were in comparison to the diode. I assume it has a diode
Thanks

If you look at the photo I uploaded, that has the wires and diode. Two wires Purple/Grey and Brown. Diode band goes on the brown side

#5319 2 years ago

I'm looking for a static Tim's gate mode if anyone has one they are willing to part with. PM if you do. Thanks.

#5330 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I joined the club today, and I'm very excited! Previous owner is a pinhead, and takes great care of his pins. Purchased at a very fair price (I will not disclose), and pin came with a ton of add-ons (see below). Of course there are a couple of minor things I need to take care of, but in my mind this is a solid quality pin all the way around, and one that will stay in my possession for the foreseeable future. Now I just need to figure out how to play the game!
- ColorDMD
- PinSound
- All LED
- Tim's Static Gate
- Tim's Small Raptor Crate
- Tim's T-Rex Saucer LED
- Tim's Smart Scoop Lighting
- Loop Combo Scoop Mods
- Pinball Life White Egg
- Jeep with Illuminated Headlights
- All New Titan Rings
- Mirror Sideblades
- Illuminated Banner
- Illuminated Back Wall
- Palm Trees
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you notice that your spitter targets and triceratops target aren't 3D targets? Not bashing your machine. It's gorgeous. Just saw it and it made my OCD twitch.

#5332 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, actually owner was in process of switching out to the flat targets since a few of the originals were broken. He gave me the remainder of the new targets to install, so that is on my to-do list. Will end up with all flats. Might still cause you stress since not the same as original, but at least they will be consistent.
He also liked a little more upward flipper position than I'm typically comfortable with. I need to research what is "standard/default" for this pin regarding flipper position as I think I would like to set to that and then customize to my liking from there if needed.
For the most part I'm happy with the lighting (I've changed a couple of bulbs already), but think I'm going to see if I like white better in some of the GI where green is currently.
I also have one broken plastic (the one attached to the right pop/jet) as it is missing the lower finger that covers the metal bracket. Need to see if anyone has one to sell, or if anyone can at least provide a high res scan so I can make my own.
While the machine is in great condition, I can't help but put a few of my own touches on it. All in due time.

I find anything other than the recommended flipper setting makes the pop bumper loop and the dock shot very difficult.

deflip2 (resized).png
#5334 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Awesome, and thanks for posting that for me. I was confused about the hole alignment position since my experience is only with my Williams Getaway where best practice is to insert a straightened paperclip between the flipper plastic and rubber at bottom of bat then insert the paperclip into the alignment hole. Was wondering how I was going to do that on JP where the hole extends out beyond the flipper.

No problem. I have my wife hold the flipper in place while I tighten the adjustment screw. You really have to tighten the hell out of it or in a few games it will slip.

#5349 2 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Thanks guys this makes the most sense maybe i hit it somegow when i wan soldering and putting in 2 new targets and brakets.
It makes the most sense becsuse the game works flawlessly otherwise

I need to replace my switch. It sometimes works. It seems if I lob the ball into the control room, it works. Any ball with some speed on it and the switch doesn't register.

#5352 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Need some advice from established JP owners. I have my new one all setup at 6.5 degrees of tilt and perfectly level side-to-side. Whenever I make the left loop (forget what its called, but shot with right flipper through the pops then up and around the top of the pin), 9 times out of 10 when the ball exits the loop at the right it takes an odd bounce and then descends to an automatic center drain.
I'm sure this is not the intentional design, so was wondering where the ball should hit (right or left flipper) and what adjustments I could make to correct this.

What is it bouncing off of when it exits the loop?

#5356 2 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Where in the metal subway is it ? It it a pain in the ass to access ? I wont be able to tinker with mine till late tonight.

Not really. Here's a pic of where it is.

Capture (resized).PNG
#5362 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Everyone may soon discover that I enjoy modding games, creating custom artwork for them, and selling my items at reasonable prices to others who like them. Up to this point, I've only owned a Getaway and I've pretty much created all the customizations I can for it. I'm pleased to see that JP already has all kinds of mods, but that won't prevent me from putting my own twist on things.
With that stated, I've created my first custom decal for the coin door (that blank black spot was calling out to me). Anyway, I've created two versions of the coin door sticker (I refer to them as "Hazard" and "Sunset") and will sell them for $6 each which includes postage to US (I will ship outside of US, but charge appropriate postage). I typically am able to create and ship within 2 days, but often times quicker than that. Please note that the images attached are watermarked, and of course the actual decal will not have the marking.
These decals are handmade using only the best quality materials. I start by printing the high resolution graphic on OEM ultra gloss photo paper on a 6 color photo printer using OEM inks. I then cover the graphic with 3mil high quality clear gloss vinyl for protection and finish. I then use a high tack adhesive sheet and apply to the underside of the decal. I cut out the decal using a straight edge and razor knife along with cutting the rounded corners using a tool that ensures a perfect rounded cut. Once the decal is fully cut out, I darken the exposed edges of the decal to prevent the white of the paper being visible around the perimeter.
If anyone is interested, please PM me with your design preference and we'll work out payment and delivery info from there. I know that I'm new to the group, but I have literally sold hundreds of decals and other customizations for the Getaway (see Getaway club thread for validation), and have even been commissioned to create custom artwork, toppers, etc. for a variety of other pins by people who appreciate the quality of my work.
BTW, before anyone comments on it, I realize that the T-Rex only had two claws on each of its hands even though my decal has 3 claw marks on each side (2 just didn't look right). Therefore, we'll just have to assume that even though the logo pictures a T-Rex that a Velociraptor made the scratches.
Hazard Coin Door Decal
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sunset Coin Door Decal
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking forward to seeing what else you come up with.

#5368 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

In summary to previous posts, whenever I make the loop through the pops, the ball comes out, hits the side rail (at no point does it even come close to touching the upper flipper) then it bounces in such a way that it center drains almost every time.
Images of ball exiting loop
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Images of where ball hits side rail
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Image of ball guide at exit
[quoted image]

Ask and you shall receive

20190211_183210 (resized).jpg
#5370 2 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Yup, bent.[quoted image]

Are those CPR plastics?

#5373 2 years ago

How do you like them? They look dark in your picture. I've seen a lot of back and forth about the blue color.

#5385 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have a question, what events make the flashers go off (2 red domes left/right back of playfield, 2 clear domes left/right center of playfield, and 2 flashers on top of backbox?
I've not seen them go off yet during game play. I thought I might have a problem, but all flashers fire during service mode testing.

Chaos multiball. The red flasher in the back right goes off when extra ball mode is lit from the control room. The clear flashers go off during the skill shot at the beginning of each ball.

#5389 2 years ago


Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:CHAOS MULTIBALL - haven't done that yet
SKILL SHOT - haven't noticed, I'll have to make it a point to watch
What about the two on top of the backbox?

Don't really notice. No topper . Wish I had one

#5405 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I have my first issue. In the middle of a game the T-Rex was failing to eat my ball. Long story short, in switch test the T-Rex saucer switch does not register (physically the switch moves up and down and even makes an audible click when I depress it). I swapped the switches between the T-Rex saucer and the saucer at top right and the problem stays with the T-Rex saucer location (i.e. the problem is not the physical switch). Whenever I did the swap, I also left the diode (or whatever that barrel is) on each switch so it made the move with the switch. In other words, I move the known working switch with diode from the top right saucer to the T-Rex saucer and the T-Rex saucer switch still does not register in switch test. I take the original non-working T-Rex switch with diode and move it to the back right saucer, and it registers perfectly in the switch test.
Any ideas regarding what my problem may be if it is not the physical switch/diode combination?
[quoted image]

I agree with Pinball_Gizzard. Definitely a wiring problem

#5415 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?
When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.
On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.
What do you guys have on yours?
[quoted image][quoted image]

When I watched the NIB unboxing video recently, the posts were not installed. It's funny lately I've been checking that video a lot to compare my machine to a NIB to see what it's suppose to look like. My machine only had 2 other owners before me and had some wonky things done that I've had to reverse.

#5430 2 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Newest issue...
I installed new code recently.(5.13)
However everything worked fine until today so possibly not related.
T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.
Any ideas why this would happen ? So frustrating..

Why didnt you upgrade to Chad code 6.0?Sooooo much better!

#5441 2 years ago

Major problems tonight.Turned on my machine to play and the right lower flipper was fluttering. So I turned off the machine checked my EOS switch. Soldered a wire on the coil that looked suspect. Still had the problem. Took out my multimeter to check the diode. I checked the left flipper coil first to check if my multimeter was set right. While testing.... my wife turned the machine on. Thought I needed more light!!! The left flipper coil locked on and blew the F3 fuse in the flipper board. Replaced the fuse and tried to go into diagnostics. Pressed the step button and the left flipper coil locked again and blew F3 again. So what kind of damage did I do? Where do I start to go about fixing the locked on left flipper coil and my fluttering right flipper?

#5510 2 years ago
Quoted from Asmig:

On the flipper board start with diode 6, Q10 (TIP36) and Q9 (TIP32) if any of those have failed.

Ended up replacing diode 6 and Q9 and I'm back in business. Thanks!

#5511 2 years ago

What have you guys done for the backbox glare? It doesn't bother me, but my wife is really short (less than 5 foot tall) and complains about the glare. I bought her a DMD glare eliminator that I'm going to install this weekend to help with that issue. I've removed some of the GI bulbs in the backbox. Anyone have a EnerGI Maestro? Does dimming the bulbs using this help with the glare?

#5516 2 years ago

Thanks for the advise. Her major complaint is the glare from the backbox. I might try removing even more bulbs.Anyone have the EnerGI Maestro and could vouch for it's effectiveness for my problem?

I've been thinking about lighting the backboard. Not to help with the backbox glare. I just think it will look awesome. I like what Lonzo did on his restore with the backboard. Seemed really budget friendly.

Invisglass is not in the budget, but I really do need a new piece of glass. I just spent my pinball budget on an LED upgrade. Best money I've spent in awhile. Completely changed the look of the inserts. I didn't realize how filthy the underside of my inserts were until I was cleaning them while changing the bulbs

#5519 2 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I did the same thing as Darscot and put a spotlight on the left sling and up by the 3rd flipper as well to light the playfield up better.

Mind posting a pic when you get a chance so I can compare to my setup?

#5530 2 years ago

Had an issue come up today. The lower half of my gi is out including ny 2 coin door lights. I checked the connector on the PPB and the fuses. Everything was fine. Any gi connected to Yellow and white yellow writes are out. How do I go about fixing this. I've also checked all the lamp sockets on that gives line and the wires look good

#5532 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Connector on the upper right power supply. Same colors as the PPb connector

That one checks out too

#5540 2 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

That one checks out too

Had time this morning to poke around some more. I was converting my game over to LED last night. This was the last socket I did before I had this line of GI go out. It's the bulb between the shooter lane and the T-Rex head on the play field. After reading some last night, it seem that if there is a problem at the beginning of the gi they are daisy chained and none below the issue will light. Can anyone confirm if this is the first socket on the yellow wire GI? If this socket is the problem , can i unsolder the socket and leave the wire twisted together and should the rest of the strand work?

Capture (resized).PNG
#5556 2 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Had time this morning to poke around some more. I was converting my game over to LED last night. This was the last socket I did before I had this line of GI go out. It's the bulb between the shooter lane and the T-Rex head on the play field. After reading some last night, it seem that if there is a problem at the beginning of the gi they are daisy chained and none below the issue will light. Can anyone confirm if this is the first socket on the yellow wire GI? If this socket is the problem , can i unsolder the socket and leave the wire twisted together and should the rest of the strand work?
[quoted image]

Afternoon bump. I'm about to get off work and getting some time to work on this. Wife is having friends over this weekend and wants it working.

#5558 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinash:

edward472 That's what I did for a faulty GI socket that would occasionally spark when bumped. I unsoldered the socket, and re-connected the string of lights by twisting the wire and captivating it using a couple of wire nuts. Just make sure any exposed wire is insulated, and you'll be fine.

After blowing a few fuses, the last socket I worked on seems to be bad. I'm going to leave it disconnected until my next pinball purchase. Anyone know the cheapest place for a replacement 44 socket with bracket?

#5568 2 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The glare on grant is only because of the high angle I took the photo from..
[quoted image]

Thanks. Yeah,that glare looks a lot better.

#5584 2 years ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Sometimes when I put the ball in front of the rex, he eats it then his head comes back down and stays there for the remainder of the game. As soon as I press start for a new game, he lifts his head back up and is fine again. Any ideas?

Does the trex work in the diagnostic test?

#5585 2 years ago

I just converted my machine over to LED. When I tried to find exact bulb counts, there was a lot a differences between posts. The manual is ridiculously wrong. So, I thought I would document the conversion to help people in the future know how many bulbs they need and where they go. The playfield scan in from vpinball. The other machine pics are random ones I found on the internet. If it's your game, thanks for letting me you use pics of it. Just wanted to give credit where credit was do.

Note: I didn't buy as many #44/47 bulbs as I listed here. The backbox doesn't need ever socket populated, but I wanted to give an accurate count of every bulb/socket.

Red dots: #555 bulbs
Playfield: 33
Front of the machine (Smart missile button, Start button, 2 coin doors): 4
Total: 37

Lime Green dots : #44/47 bulbs
Playfield: 66
Backbox Inside: 26
Backbox Top: 3
Total: 95

Aqua Blue dots: #455 bulbs
Backbox: 7
Total: 7

Purple Dots: #89 Bulbs
Playfield: 21
Backbox Top: 2
Total: 23

Yellow Dots: #906 Bulbs
Playfield: 6
Total: 6

Total bulbs: 168

JurassicParkBackBox (resized).pngJurassicParkFront (resized).png

JurassicParkTopper (resized).pngJurassicParkPlayfield-off_small (resized).png
#5590 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Next step would be to add the recommended colours for some of the lights, especially the inserts.
ie. the scoops lights need 3 x Green #555 for the uppers and 2 x Yellow #555 and 1 x Blue #555 for the lowers.
The virtual pin playfield is really handy for this, I wonder if it would be better to overlay text on it? Or label it with numbers and then reference a list?
Something like this? I can work on this, if it'll help out others too. Just need to know what format people think is best.
[quoted image]

Yep I update it. Anyone can do whatever they want with the pics. Figured it was way better than the manual. I didn't bother color matching except for the Trex lights in the apron, scoop lights, shoot trex light, and the gate lights.

#5592 2 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Totally, the manual is terrible when it comes to lights and rubber information.
I'm actually surprised at how hard it is to find really good, clear information on LED and rubber locations for each machine. When I did my JP I counted them all myself but didn't account for the 555s that are used for some of the inserts, I had thought they were all 44s... Noobie mistake.

Yeah it definitely took awhile. I broke a lmap socket, but i got to clean places that I don't think were ever cleaned on my machine. I was tempted to flame polish my ramp while it was out, but I talked myself out of that. "Leave well enough alone, Ben"

#5598 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Hey guys: I need to replace c2 on the power board as the display and sound are taking a bit longer to come on AND I can see a bit of leakage.
Looks like a 100uf 25vdc cap.
Once I remove old one, is there a good way to clean any corrosion off before replacing?

You can use isopropyl alcohol. You should consider recapping the rest of the board. The other capacitors will go and might take the board with it like mine did

#5625 2 years ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.
When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.
This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.
Thanks![quoted image]

I was about to say the same thing. They look very suspect. Especially the last one.

#5642 2 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi all. I just got a JP and want to do the led conversion. I know I saw someone created a pictured breakdown of all of the bulbs needed but can’t find it. Anyone have the link or post? Just need numbers of bulbs. Oh also I updated the roms to chads 6.0 and sound. The other roms- U17/21 etc are the 4. Something version. What do these do and do I need to update as well? Thanks

That was me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/112#post-4919193

#5645 2 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not sure if anyone has posted results for JP plastics from CPR since their move to digital printing. There's a company out of Europe who has an incomplete set, and I believe the review of their quality indicated they were unacceptable. The screen printed CPR sets have had generally positive reviews with the caveat that the blue is much darker than stock, necessitating swapping out all plastics. I don't think they're offering screen printed sets of them anymore, so new JP plastic purchases from CPR are likely from their on-demand digital printing process.

Id like to see if they fixed the blue since their move to digital.

#5649 2 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Awesome thank you

Also, if you are buying a full set of leds, take advantage of the free shipping and buy the DMD glare eliminator while you're at it.

#5666 2 years ago

Quick question, should the bottom two flippers be at the same place when fully up? My left flipper looks lower than the right.

#5676 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Have you checked your fuses? There are a few candidates for getting in the way when lowering the playfield coil wise, especially the boat dock IIRC.
Edward472 sounds like one of your coil stops is probably more worn on one side than the other, or possibly more slop in the linkage, plunger, etc. A flipper rebuild kit is the way to solve it.

So they are suppose to be symmetrical when fully extended?

#5680 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thank you.

Now I have to ask what the OCD board is.

http://www.ledocd.com

#5707 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just got to my second shutdown ever (my score was still bad, however). Fun thing when it happens.
BTW, I don't understand how to set the extra ball score. Can someone please explain the steps?

Do you mean setting the score for when you get a free game?

#5711 2 years ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Should my J.P. be shooting balls out of the shooting lane into the pop bumpers every time? Or is it normal for it to miss occasionally? I replaced the bracket and gate, but have been getting the same results. It happens about once out of every 10 times.

Yes. Mine never misses.

#5715 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, I have done this. But how do I set the score at which an extra ball is awarded? It's weird in that it seems to change from game to game right now.

If it changes from game to game, check adjustment 16. Sound like Replay Boost is set to YES.

Also, take a look here https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=tutorials&article=59

#5746 2 years ago

Just got my custom apron cards from Mikonos. Great quality, price, and communication. The chrome vinyl they are printed on give them a foil pokemon card type of effect. They have a nice UV resistant coating. They feel really durable. I got them in just in time for a party my wife was throwing last night. Got a lot of compliments on them. No one ever even noticed the stock set.

20190420_180949 (resized).jpg20190420_181101 (resized).jpg20190420_183038 (resized).jpg20190420_183029 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#5851 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but it they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

I have one in my cart. Can you post a pic of yours installed?

#5874 2 years ago

Anyone have a good rubber kit list? I know titan has a few in their database, but even those have people saying they are missing some. I don't want to buy a bunch and then have to make another order for the 1 or 2 I'll be missing.

#5877 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

On my list for this weekend to install these.

Did you go with the same kit?

#5879 2 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Wish the guy that got the NIB JP would do a teardown to get an accurate list of rubbers used. I feel that over time, we all have different sized rubbers on our machine based on the incorrect manual/operators using what was available to them.

Yeah. I asked them for some hi res shots of the playfield and they said they would do them...Not holding my breath. I'm sure they already sold the machine. I felt like it was a really big missed opportunity to not document the game for the rest of us.

#5887 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Just the sizes. I went all black on color.

Tell me how it works out and if its a complete kit

#5909 2 years ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)
ebay.com link

Yeah I saw that a couple of weeks ago. Didn't sell the first time. Cool that it exists, but too rich for my blood.

#5928 2 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Hi guys, just joined the club last weekend with a machine I got from a local pinsider. It came with a custom topper (one of a kind I am told?) which cannot fit in my basement so I will be selling if anyone is interested $350 shipped or $325 local pick up. Video of it below;
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club. I have seen that one before. http://www.pinballtoppers.com used to sell them. Looks like the previous owner drilled holes in the sides for lights. So in that sense it's one of a kind. Still really cool.

Quoted from Rock914:

I still make them. Built stronger than the original. They are now sold here. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-topper.html

Good to know. Not trying to knock it, but did you make all the details thicker too or is that the way it's painted? The pic looks like all the teeth are mushed together, but in the original the teeth look a lot more spaced out.

#5933 2 years ago

I talked to him last month and he's doing another run. You can PM him on here, and he will contact you when it's available again.

#5938 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

AHHH! He's making more and they'll be available in the store shortly (or now), parts are in stock.

They are in stock now

#5957 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.

Lonzo did decals when he did his restore. Kcz did decals too https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/to-clearcoat-or-not-to-clearcoat-that-is-the-question-#post-4956787
Retro refurbs sells whole decals

#5961 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I stenciled my Cyclone, 2 colors instead of three but black background, and it was a PAIN. It was my first time but even still I had a bear of a time getting the paint to lay down opaque enough and removing the stencils leaving enough time to get all the coats of paint down before he stencils pulled off the edges of paint. I don't think I'll ever do it again.
I'd definitely be in for radcals and a hardtop, but now I'm replacing the playfield so I'm probably good there.

You're replacing your playfield?! How bad was it?

#5978 2 years ago

Shout out to Lonzo on the tip for removing the prongs on the TRex saucer. Bought some NOS saucers but had the tabs. The tabs were rejecting the ball. Some sandpaper and 30 mins later.... good to go

20190509_174129 (resized).jpg20190509_174123 (resized).jpg
#5980 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yeah, I installed a new red one (figured it represented blood) but it too has the tabs. My main issue is that they catch the ball, and I have to nearly tilt sometimes for the ball to fall in the saucer. Can you link to Lonzo's post where he tells how to address the issue, please?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/9#post-4161135

#6078 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I guess that's debatable. I personally like being movie-accurate given we've got a reference to something in the movie. On the other hand, it's going into a pinball machine and taking over a feature that's supposed to tell you to shoot the t-rex.
Perhaps "shoot" means take a picture!

Or get rid of the camera at the top, 3D print the rest minus the T-Rex circle. Make the T-rex circle out a plastic and thread an led through the base and behind the T-Rex circle

#6119 1 year ago
Quoted from Geteos:

V2 of the T. rex box printed in marble. Same depth as the original box to hide the flasher. Still need to figure out mounting the spot and other bulb. I’ll probably convert the other bulb into 5mm leds which will plug into the leads of the old bulb to keep it plug and play.
I have to pick up some decal paper to print the 3 stickers. Probably won’t happen till Tuesday when I’m back at work and can use the colour laser printer. Let me know what you guys think!
[quoted image][quoted image]

#6195 1 year ago

I have white under mine. It shows really well in the big escape inserts.

#6222 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:I have this other playfield that I am not sure what I will do with. I could maybe restore it like the one above or sell it as it is. You can probably see from the pic it is yellowed. I am thinking this is a clear coat that is crap. So I plan to sand and re-clear. It is missing one insert I think (the S) and I have another playfield I can grab it from and the artwork already made for the waterslide. I can include those things if I sell it as is. Is there interest in a used playfield? I assume so since no one is making them.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pm'd

#6228 1 year ago
Quoted from Geteos:

After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.
Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1 week later
#6274 1 year ago
Quoted from poopedmypins:

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/106#post-4865531

#6322 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Damnit, just broke the ramp right near the diverter. I was trying to rivet back in the plate which connects the wire ramp. I am guessing this is unobtainium, looks like I'm doing some plastic welding. Damnit, damnit, damnit.

I just installed Cliffy's and came really close to breaking mine doing something stupid. I swear I had a mini heart attack.

1 week later
#6491 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Did anyone else know they had the ramp in stock?
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-main-ramp-assembly.html
I just ordered it... not cheap on shipping but it's available.

No. I'm surprised. Let us know how the quality is.

2 weeks later
#6592 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Ok. I guess I lied. I will let you know about one more video I just uploaded. It tell you how to modify your Jurassic Park or any Data East or system 11 game to turn the backbox off during gameplay and get rid of the backbox reflections in the playfield glass.

Awesome. I was hoping to see a video on this. Thanks

1 month later
#6843 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

yup. Thats the stuff. I don't think I have the blue pad in mine, but I would assume it's about the same. I don't think those allow for much bounce. I could be wrong. But I'm 99% sure the problem is that it's just jumping over that switch, which is why slow shots work, and fast ones don't register.
Also, if you're going to place an order, try this one too. This looks closer to what is in my machine. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0500-9852

I wonder if you used a piece of foam mouse pad if it would work. That's what the pic from Marcos looks like

1 month later
#7052 1 year ago

Fired up my machine for the first time in a few weeks and played a few games. Everything works fine, but something feels off with the auto plunger. When I get to tri-ball, the ball feeds into the shooter lane and then there is quite a bit of delay before the auto plunge. It felt like it took an eternity for the game to kick out the extra 2 balls. Thoughts on what might be the issue?

#7064 1 year ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Hi All -
Dealing with an issue that I just can't figure out. I shopped my JP, and upon finishing it up and powering it on, coils start firing and switches keep engaging repeatedly. In switch test, I see that a lot of things are engaging at once. Is this indicative of a short? Does anyone know if any of these areas have something in common, where I can trace it back to either a connector or possbibly use it to diagnose a short? I added a video below. Thanks for the help in advance.

Except for the right sling and trex right, everything is is suppose to be on like that. I don't see trough 2 listed in the video. Your game is probably doing a ball search since all your trough switches aren't showing active.

#7069 1 year ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Hmm. The right VUK on the subway continues to fire continuously over and over very rapidly. It's not a stuck switch or anything, so it looks like the issue lies somewhere else.

Might be a dumb question, but is there a ball somewhere in the subway? Mine used to do that and i had the rebuild the vuk. It was struggling trying to get ball up to the wireform. It would drop down and the vuk would go off again,but most of the time would push the ball back up into the subway. Also, if the vuk keeps firing it might be the switch above the coil, but that switch should show as on during the switch test.

2 months later
#7163 1 year ago

So I posted a couple of weeks ago about my auto launcher being sluggish. Now the auto launcher has stopped completely after a game a couple of nights ago. I checked the fuses, coil , reflowed the wires on the coil. Nothing. I went into the coil test and can't get it to fire. All other coils are firing. I've got guest coming over Saturday itching to play. Help!

#7165 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

Picture of the mech please, can you manualy move the plunger in the coil? How is the coil bushing
Have you checked the switch matrix, the wireing and conector and pins at the boards?

The coil is fine. Its a coil not a switch so I don't need to check the switch matrix. The connectors on the ppb are fine. I reseated them.

#7167 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

There is a switch in the shooter lane. If the ball is not detected on that switch, it may not auto plunge.

Even during the coil test?

#7169 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

No, if it does not operate during the coil test, its not the switch.

That's what I thought. I'm starting to think it the transistor on the PPB

#7176 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I have never worked on that, but I enjoy electronics. It appears it is driven by Q5 which gets its signal from D3.
Also, do you have the 50v at the coil?
[quoted image]

No power at the coil. Problem solved. Auto launch coil is daisy chained to the right VUK. The power wire for the auto launch came off the right VUK coil

1 week later
#7207 1 year ago
Quoted from spent85:

Hey folks,
Does anyone have any tips on how to replace the ball launcher? I got a replacement part from Stern, but it seems the original was soldered directly in. Am I best off just cutting the wires and attaching this new stern one in, or is it best for me to add a quick disconnect for the new Stern launcher to hook up to? I know this is a very simple question, but I am new to this and trying not to make more problems for myself! Thanks all.

Wrong group. This is for DE Jurassic park. Check the Stern JP group

#7220 1 year ago
Quoted from spent85:

I'm talking about a DE JP. The autolauncher replacement is a Stern style part (cross reffed with the manual), so it has a quick disconnect. The original launcher seems to be soldered directly in and has no quick disconnect anywhere near it. I am asking if anyone here has replaced their auto launcher and if they just snipped wired and did a quick solder to get the new one in, or if they had any tips on how to add a quick disconnect to this part. I do not own a 2019 JP though wish I did.

Sorry thought you were talking about the other game. When you say autolunch, do you mean just replacing the ball launch coil?

#7224 1 year ago
Quoted from spent85:

Ok folks,
Sorry again for my inital description. I hope these pictures will help along with my new explanation. Basically, I am trying to replace the auto launcher because the backstop (brass and rubber piece) is entirely missing. This obviously renders the game unplayable. I ordered a new part, and when it arrived it seemed to have a quick-disconnect type hookup. I looked at my machine, but it appears as though the wires for the auto launcher are maybe soldered directly in? I see no quick connect for it and it just ends up with all the other wires.
Initially, I thought I would just be able to replace this part, but now I'm wondering if my course of action is to split the current connection, figure out how to attach the other end of the quick connect and go to town. I fear soldering in the new piece would just make problems later if it ever needed replaced again. I am sorry that this is such a simple question, I just have never soldered before and would need to probably hire someone, so I want to be sure I know exactly what to ask for![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If there is nothing wrong with your current coil, remove your current auto launch assembly and drop your coil into your new assembly. Reinstall the assembly. No soldering required.

#7226 1 year ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

Just to further update here, I have fixed the "6 balls missing" - this was due to 2 balls being in the same spot, and ultimately causing every ball to be missing the switch. I did a switch test - and all of them register. I checked the active switches and now troughs 1-6 are active.
Current problems....
1. Broken switch.
2. Coils associated to J1 not firing.

Is there power at the coils?

1 month later
#7412 1 year ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Hey there, I'm curious what you all set as your replay score and award within a home environment? After upgrading to 6.0, mine was set around 200M, which I since lowered to 150M. I currently have the award set at "CREDIT", which obviously means nothing on free play so I'm thinking about switching this to "EXTRA BALL". The only thing stopping me is that I kinda feel like that's cheating?
What do you all have setup?

I've set mine really high, but I have a reason. When you get a replay, the Victory Lap comes on for 30 sec. It's messed up the game for me when I'm in the second CHAOS multiball and I've already fed T-REX and the replay starts the Victory Lap. The game doesn't see me hitting the ramp as a Super Jackpot. It see it as me hitting a Victory Lap and scores according to the Victory Lap scoring instead of Super Jackpot scoring. It happened enough times so I bumped the replay up high so it shouldn't happen as often

4 months later
#7955 10 months ago

I haven't been playing mine much because it has been having issues. The ball's weren't feeding correctly and the A scoop wasn't registering among other things. Finally got everything working yesterday, buttoned it up, and then this happened. I thought that clear post was suppose to prevent this type of thing

108179206_308441303875028_6272139252507471326_n (resized).jpg
#7960 9 months ago
Quoted from 03whtlightning:

For clarification, when the ball goes into the double scoop(control room/bunker) the ball will kick out and go straight down the middle and into the trough. Under the playfield, the bunker assembly is secure. As far as the coil goes, it seems secure. There is some side to side play in the plunger though. I wonder if this is why it never seems to kick the ball out the same way?

Check your flipper alignment too. If the left isn't aligned well, it can be hard to catch the ball with it when it's ejected

#7962 9 months ago
Quoted from 03whtlightning:

The flipper alignment looks good. I think the whole bunker assembly may need to be moved a bit. Because it goes down the middle with no possibility of saving. Not even close to the flippers. The only thing that I don’t understand Is why it only does it 60 to 70 percent of the time. I would think it should come out of that bunker almost the same every time?

There's some variation. Especially if the shaker is going off. But should be pretty consistent. Have you checked the to see if your game is level and set at the right pitch?

1 week later
#7989 9 months ago

Yep. This switch is the second most frustrating part of the entire machine

2 weeks later
#8027 9 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Greetings. I've decided to scout around for a DE JP. After restoring 20+ EMs for 8 years, I finally took on and just finished my first SS: a WMS Jokerz, which arrived just in time before the coronavirus meltdown. (I refer to it as my "tuition" pin.) So now I'm bored in lockdown. Thought it would be most helpful to hang out in this JP club and learn as much as I can. Fascinating group. Inspiring posts. Looking forward to new shared knowledge.

Are you looking for restored, project, player's condition?

1 week later
#8049 8 months ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Alright yall. I just put in Chads code and now the Trex won't eat the ball. I have it set to yes to eat the ball and no to turn side to side. It was fine before the rom swap. Any ideas? It doesn't move during the diagnostics either. Thanks!

If you pop in the old roms does it work again?

1 week later
#8073 8 months ago

I haven't seen those 3D printed scoop models in a while. I totally forgot about them

#8081 8 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

It is very bitter sweet. I would have love to have kept It.

I'm right there with you. I'm leaving the club today. I didn't think I would miss it until it was sitting wrapped up waiting for the delivery guy to pick it up.

1 week later
#8132 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Haven't decided yet. I just know that I want a Stern pin, so once the deal is done I'll begin thinking about it and searching in earnest.

It's like your reading my mind. I just sold mine and now I'm looking at Stern pins.

#8141 8 months ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

I just noticed on my recently acquired DE JP that the 10" clear lexan shield behind the upper flipper is missing. From the pics I've seen, it's held down by two tall hex-posts (which are still there on mine). So, is this a critical part? If so, any idea where one is obtainable? Or am I better off trying to make one? Thanks.

I've never seen one for sale. I also never had a ball land there.

1 week later
#8172 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

A modern Stern. I’m down to 3 (JP, SW, GOTG), and believe or not JP is topping the list for me right now.

Deadpool is the top of mine right now

2 months later
#8385 5 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

This is a huge help, thank you! I really just wanted to make sure his machine wasn't going to eat up my entire bulb stock on any one color. With 14 red bayonets I definitely wanted to jump on another 25pk while they were on sale. Other than white, which I should have plenty of stock of (I added 4 more 25pks of sunlight bayonet) I think I should still have plenty of stock afterwards.
I probably could have just left it be and been fine, but now is obviously a better time to buy than say in February.

Thinking I'm just going to do the same. Did you end up using one long rubber between the two posts and the rail or did you use individual rubbers on the posts and let the rail be exposed?

Search for my posts in this thread. I did a breakdown of all the bulbs and their locations when I swapped mine to led

2 weeks later
#8420 4 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Clearing some stuff out. How much should I ask for these 2 pieces?
[quoted image]

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