Quoted from edward472:

I'm trying to join the club. I've been looking for one near me for a few months now. I know prices vary widely based on condition. What's the going rate on a player's condition machine? I figured if anyone would know it would be you guys, and I didn't want to start another price check thread. Thanks in advance.

Quoted from jorro:

You can sleep under your pinball machine!

Quoted from Pinbear:

Looking for the clear plastic cover part (red circle). I can't find the part number in the manual.
[quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

TREX no longer wants to move side to side. I figured out how to re-adjust him so he'll go up and down, but the motor does not seem to want to come on for left to right movement. I was in the machine earlier today and am assuming I bumped something loose but cannot figure it out. I hear a clicking noise in the small thing pictured on the green board but don't see movement when the TREX should be turning. I wanted to know if anybody had any tips before I disassembled the motor. Does anybody know what would cause the left right motor to fail but the up down and chomp to continue working? All the switches in the test mode work here.
Also... on a completely unrelated note... How do I adjust the volume?
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Is there a way I can test the TREX motor and verify that it works or doesn't work? I'm thinking about hooking it up directly to something like a 9 volt battery... If this is a bad idea please let me know. I'm going to head in to the hardware store to get some more solder... would there be anything there more appropriate?

Quoted from TommyNYC:

I think its called a flipper link ?

Quoted from Daditude:

ebay.com link » Data East Jurassic Park Pinball Machine Smart Missile Button 515 5825 00 New
I dont think they sell the plastic by itself. I looked for a start button a while back, and i had to buy the whole assembly...but there it is.

Quoted from chrisnack:

Just brought home a JP this weekend. Had to replace the connectors on the power supply for the GI lighting, those were burnt to hell.
Couple of questions:
1) Can anyone provide a picture or confirm if there should be posts near the outlanes? Looks like there should be one on the right side for sure, i found 1 picture to validate that. On the left side i'm not sure. On my game someone just drove a screw right into the playfield there, so i've removed that, but want to know if i need to put in a new post there or not.
2) The connector on the PPB for the GI lighting (upper left of board). I replaced that one with a new one and redid the wiring, however the very first pin (far left) doesn't seem to be used. So just want to validate that. Based on the wires i had, and accounting for the key'd hole, i just don't have anything to connect to that far left pin. Everything appears to be working on the game, so not sure!
Thanks!!

Quoted from chrisnack:

Just gonna be one of those weekends i guess.
The lamps out, i traced to the following... so probably a control issue there...
“C” arch 48
red-gry cn6-9
Yel-blu cn7-7
Left Turbo Bumper 62
Red-blu cn6-7
Yel-gry cn7-9
Then i shorted something and loss the whole column on the switch matrix...
Column 6
Cn8-7

Quoted from Whitewater:

Thanks for posting a knocker photo. My pin is also missing the whole knocker assembly.
Could someone please post a closeup picture of their knocker as I need to see which wire goes were in comparison to the diode. I assume it has a diode
Thanks

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I joined the club today, and I'm very excited! Previous owner is a pinhead, and takes great care of his pins. Purchased at a very fair price (I will not disclose), and pin came with a ton of add-ons (see below). Of course there are a couple of minor things I need to take care of, but in my mind this is a solid quality pin all the way around, and one that will stay in my possession for the foreseeable future. Now I just need to figure out how to play the game!
- ColorDMD
- PinSound
- All LED
- Tim's Static Gate
- Tim's Small Raptor Crate
- Tim's T-Rex Saucer LED
- Tim's Smart Scoop Lighting
- Loop Combo Scoop Mods
- Pinball Life White Egg
- Jeep with Illuminated Headlights
- All New Titan Rings
- Mirror Sideblades
- Illuminated Banner
- Illuminated Back Wall
- Palm Trees
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, actually owner was in process of switching out to the flat targets since a few of the originals were broken. He gave me the remainder of the new targets to install, so that is on my to-do list. Will end up with all flats. Might still cause you stress since not the same as original, but at least they will be consistent.
He also liked a little more upward flipper position than I'm typically comfortable with. I need to research what is "standard/default" for this pin regarding flipper position as I think I would like to set to that and then customize to my liking from there if needed.
For the most part I'm happy with the lighting (I've changed a couple of bulbs already), but think I'm going to see if I like white better in some of the GI where green is currently.
I also have one broken plastic (the one attached to the right pop/jet) as it is missing the lower finger that covers the metal bracket. Need to see if anyone has one to sell, or if anyone can at least provide a high res scan so I can make my own.
While the machine is in great condition, I can't help but put a few of my own touches on it. All in due time.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Awesome, and thanks for posting that for me. I was confused about the hole alignment position since my experience is only with my Williams Getaway where best practice is to insert a straightened paperclip between the flipper plastic and rubber at bottom of bat then insert the paperclip into the alignment hole. Was wondering how I was going to do that on JP where the hole extends out beyond the flipper.

Quoted from TommyNYC:

Thanks guys this makes the most sense maybe i hit it somegow when i wan soldering and putting in 2 new targets and brakets.
It makes the most sense becsuse the game works flawlessly otherwise

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Need some advice from established JP owners. I have my new one all setup at 6.5 degrees of tilt and perfectly level side-to-side. Whenever I make the left loop (forget what its called, but shot with right flipper through the pops then up and around the top of the pin), 9 times out of 10 when the ball exits the loop at the right it takes an odd bounce and then descends to an automatic center drain.
I'm sure this is not the intentional design, so was wondering where the ball should hit (right or left flipper) and what adjustments I could make to correct this.

Quoted from TommyNYC:

Where in the metal subway is it ? It it a pain in the ass to access ? I wont be able to tinker with mine till late tonight.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Everyone may soon discover that I enjoy modding games, creating custom artwork for them, and selling my items at reasonable prices to others who like them. Up to this point, I've only owned a Getaway and I've pretty much created all the customizations I can for it. I'm pleased to see that JP already has all kinds of mods, but that won't prevent me from putting my own twist on things.
With that stated, I've created my first custom decal for the coin door (that blank black spot was calling out to me). Anyway, I've created two versions of the coin door sticker (I refer to them as "Hazard" and "Sunset") and will sell them for $6 each which includes postage to US (I will ship outside of US, but charge appropriate postage). I typically am able to create and ship within 2 days, but often times quicker than that. Please note that the images attached are watermarked, and of course the actual decal will not have the marking.
These decals are handmade using only the best quality materials. I start by printing the high resolution graphic on OEM ultra gloss photo paper on a 6 color photo printer using OEM inks. I then cover the graphic with 3mil high quality clear gloss vinyl for protection and finish. I then use a high tack adhesive sheet and apply to the underside of the decal. I cut out the decal using a straight edge and razor knife along with cutting the rounded corners using a tool that ensures a perfect rounded cut. Once the decal is fully cut out, I darken the exposed edges of the decal to prevent the white of the paper being visible around the perimeter.
If anyone is interested, please PM me with your design preference and we'll work out payment and delivery info from there. I know that I'm new to the group, but I have literally sold hundreds of decals and other customizations for the Getaway (see Getaway club thread for validation), and have even been commissioned to create custom artwork, toppers, etc. for a variety of other pins by people who appreciate the quality of my work.
BTW, before anyone comments on it, I realize that the T-Rex only had two claws on each of its hands even though my decal has 3 claw marks on each side (2 just didn't look right). Therefore, we'll just have to assume that even though the logo pictures a T-Rex that a Velociraptor made the scratches.
Hazard Coin Door Decal
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sunset Coin Door Decal
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

In summary to previous posts, whenever I make the loop through the pops, the ball comes out, hits the side rail (at no point does it even come close to touching the upper flipper) then it bounces in such a way that it center drains almost every time.
Images of ball exiting loop
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Images of where ball hits side rail
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Image of ball guide at exit
[quoted image]

Quoted from mbott1701:

Yup, bent.[quoted image]

Quoted from mbott1701:

Yes, they are.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have a question, what events make the flashers go off (2 red domes left/right back of playfield, 2 clear domes left/right center of playfield, and 2 flashers on top of backbox?
I've not seen them go off yet during game play. I thought I might have a problem, but all flashers fire during service mode testing.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:CHAOS MULTIBALL - haven't done that yet
SKILL SHOT - haven't noticed, I'll have to make it a point to watch
What about the two on top of the backbox?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I have my first issue. In the middle of a game the T-Rex was failing to eat my ball. Long story short, in switch test the T-Rex saucer switch does not register (physically the switch moves up and down and even makes an audible click when I depress it). I swapped the switches between the T-Rex saucer and the saucer at top right and the problem stays with the T-Rex saucer location (i.e. the problem is not the physical switch). Whenever I did the swap, I also left the diode (or whatever that barrel is) on each switch so it made the move with the switch. In other words, I move the known working switch with diode from the top right saucer to the T-Rex saucer and the T-Rex saucer switch still does not register in switch test. I take the original non-working T-Rex switch with diode and move it to the back right saucer, and it registers perfectly in the switch test.
Any ideas regarding what my problem may be if it is not the physical switch/diode combination?
[quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Are there supposed to be posts and/or rubbers at the end of the in lanes in between the "lite adv X" and "special" lights on the outlanes?
When I got my machine there was only a metal post on the right side, but it looks like rubber was supposed to go over it. I added a piece of rubber there and after 5 games have not lost a ball on that side. I understand I can adjust difficulty by adding/removing these, but wanted to know how they are/were originally set up.
On the left side, there is no post but there is a hole pre-drilled there like I may be missing something.
What do you guys have on yours?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from TommyNYC:

Newest issue...
I installed new code recently.(5.13)
However everything worked fine until today so possibly not related.
T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.
Any ideas why this would happen ? So frustrating..

Quoted from Asmig:

On the flipper board start with diode 6, Q10 (TIP36) and Q9 (TIP32) if any of those have failed.

Quoted from J-Freeze:

I did the same thing as Darscot and put a spotlight on the left sling and up by the 3rd flipper as well to light the playfield up better.

Quoted from kba78:

Connector on the upper right power supply. Same colors as the PPb connector

Quoted from edward472:

That one checks out too

Quoted from edward472:

Had time this morning to poke around some more. I was converting my game over to LED last night. This was the last socket I did before I had this line of GI go out. It's the bulb between the shooter lane and the T-Rex head on the play field. After reading some last night, it seem that if there is a problem at the beginning of the gi they are daisy chained and none below the issue will light. Can anyone confirm if this is the first socket on the yellow wire GI? If this socket is the problem , can i unsolder the socket and leave the wire twisted together and should the rest of the strand work?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Pinash:

edward472 That's what I did for a faulty GI socket that would occasionally spark when bumped. I unsoldered the socket, and re-connected the string of lights by twisting the wire and captivating it using a couple of wire nuts. Just make sure any exposed wire is insulated, and you'll be fine.

Quoted from J-Freeze:

The glare on grant is only because of the high angle I took the photo from..
[quoted image]

Quoted from weasel671:

Sometimes when I put the ball in front of the rex, he eats it then his head comes back down and stays there for the remainder of the game. As soon as I press start for a new game, he lifts his head back up and is fine again. Any ideas?

Quoted from Geteos:

Next step would be to add the recommended colours for some of the lights, especially the inserts.
ie. the scoops lights need 3 x Green #555 for the uppers and 2 x Yellow #555 and 1 x Blue #555 for the lowers.
The virtual pin playfield is really handy for this, I wonder if it would be better to overlay text on it? Or label it with numbers and then reference a list?
Something like this? I can work on this, if it'll help out others too. Just need to know what format people think is best.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Geteos:

Totally, the manual is terrible when it comes to lights and rubber information.
I'm actually surprised at how hard it is to find really good, clear information on LED and rubber locations for each machine. When I did my JP I counted them all myself but didn't account for the 555s that are used for some of the inserts, I had thought they were all 44s... Noobie mistake.

Quoted from Blackbeard:

Hey guys: I need to replace c2 on the power board as the display and sound are taking a bit longer to come on AND I can see a bit of leakage.
Looks like a 100uf 25vdc cap.
Once I remove old one, is there a good way to clean any corrosion off before replacing?

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.
When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.
This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.
Thanks![quoted image]

Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi all. I just got a JP and want to do the led conversion. I know I saw someone created a pictured breakdown of all of the bulbs needed but can’t find it. Anyone have the link or post? Just need numbers of bulbs. Oh also I updated the roms to chads 6.0 and sound. The other roms- U17/21 etc are the 4. Something version. What do these do and do I need to update as well? Thanks

Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not sure if anyone has posted results for JP plastics from CPR since their move to digital printing. There's a company out of Europe who has an incomplete set, and I believe the review of their quality indicated they were unacceptable. The screen printed CPR sets have had generally positive reviews with the caveat that the blue is much darker than stock, necessitating swapping out all plastics. I don't think they're offering screen printed sets of them anymore, so new JP plastic purchases from CPR are likely from their on-demand digital printing process.

Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Awesome thank you

Quoted from Chalkey:

Have you checked your fuses? There are a few candidates for getting in the way when lowering the playfield coil wise, especially the boat dock IIRC.
Edward472 sounds like one of your coil stops is probably more worn on one side than the other, or possibly more slop in the linkage, plunger, etc. A flipper rebuild kit is the way to solve it.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thank you.

Now I have to ask what the OCD board is.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just got to my second shutdown ever (my score was still bad, however). Fun thing when it happens.
BTW, I don't understand how to set the extra ball score. Can someone please explain the steps?

Quoted from weasel671:

Should my J.P. be shooting balls out of the shooting lane into the pop bumpers every time? Or is it normal for it to miss occasionally? I replaced the bracket and gate, but have been getting the same results. It happens about once out of every 10 times.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, I have done this. But how do I set the score at which an extra ball is awarded? It's weird in that it seems to change from game to game right now.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but it they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

Quoted from ypurchn:

On my list for this weekend to install these.

Quoted from woody24:

Wish the guy that got the NIB JP would do a teardown to get an accurate list of rubbers used. I feel that over time, we all have different sized rubbers on our machine based on the incorrect manual/operators using what was available to them.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Just the sizes. I went all black on color.

Quoted from Wharhed:

NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)
ebay.com link

Quoted from daveddd14:

Hi guys, just joined the club last weekend with a machine I got from a local pinsider. It came with a custom topper (one of a kind I am told?) which cannot fit in my basement so I will be selling if anyone is interested $350 shipped or $325 local pick up. Video of it below;
[quoted image]

Quoted from Rock914:

I still make them. Built stronger than the original. They are now sold here. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-topper.html

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Sold out.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Cool, do you know his u/n?

Sweet, PM'd

Quoted from harryhoudini:

AHHH! He's making more and they'll be available in the store shortly (or now), parts are in stock.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I stenciled my Cyclone, 2 colors instead of three but black background, and it was a PAIN. It was my first time but even still I had a bear of a time getting the paint to lay down opaque enough and removing the stencils leaving enough time to get all the coats of paint down before he stencils pulled off the edges of paint. I don't think I'll ever do it again.
I'd definitely be in for radcals and a hardtop, but now I'm replacing the playfield so I'm probably good there.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yeah, I installed a new red one (figured it represented blood) but it too has the tabs. My main issue is that they catch the ball, and I have to nearly tilt sometimes for the ball to fall in the saucer. Can you link to Lonzo's post where he tells how to address the issue, please?

Quoted from winteriscoming:

I guess that's debatable. I personally like being movie-accurate given we've got a reference to something in the movie. On the other hand, it's going into a pinball machine and taking over a feature that's supposed to tell you to shoot the t-rex.
Perhaps "shoot" means take a picture!

Quoted from Geteos:

V2 of the T. rex box printed in marble. Same depth as the original box to hide the flasher. Still need to figure out mounting the spot and other bulb. I’ll probably convert the other bulb into 5mm leds which will plug into the leads of the old bulb to keep it plug and play.
I have to pick up some decal paper to print the 3 stickers. Probably won’t happen till Tuesday when I’m back at work and can use the colour laser printer. Let me know what you guys think!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from harryhoudini:I have this other playfield that I am not sure what I will do with. I could maybe restore it like the one above or sell it as it is. You can probably see from the pic it is yellowed. I am thinking this is a clear coat that is crap. So I plan to sand and re-clear. It is missing one insert I think (the S) and I have another playfield I can grab it from and the artwork already made for the waterslide. I can include those things if I sell it as is. Is there interest in a used playfield? I assume so since no one is making them.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Geteos:

After much fiddling with vinyl decals and waterslides I was able to finish off two of the projects this evening.
Presenting the T-Rex Box (w/top) and the Stun Gun![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from poopedmypins:

Where was the original knocker installed? Anyone have pics? Mine has no sign of a knocker, one of the last owners took it out for some reason

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Damnit, just broke the ramp right near the diverter. I was trying to rivet back in the plate which connects the wire ramp. I am guessing this is unobtainium, looks like I'm doing some plastic welding. Damnit, damnit, damnit.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Did anyone else know they had the ramp in stock?
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-main-ramp-assembly.html
I just ordered it... not cheap on shipping but it's available.

Quoted from Lonzo:

Ok. I guess I lied. I will let you know about one more video I just uploaded. It tell you how to modify your Jurassic Park or any Data East or system 11 game to turn the backbox off during gameplay and get rid of the backbox reflections in the playfield glass.

Quoted from woody24:

yup. Thats the stuff. I don't think I have the blue pad in mine, but I would assume it's about the same. I don't think those allow for much bounce. I could be wrong. But I'm 99% sure the problem is that it's just jumping over that switch, which is why slow shots work, and fast ones don't register.
Also, if you're going to place an order, try this one too. This looks closer to what is in my machine. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0500-9852

Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Hi All -
Dealing with an issue that I just can't figure out. I shopped my JP, and upon finishing it up and powering it on, coils start firing and switches keep engaging repeatedly. In switch test, I see that a lot of things are engaging at once. Is this indicative of a short? Does anyone know if any of these areas have something in common, where I can trace it back to either a connector or possbibly use it to diagnose a short? I added a video below. Thanks for the help in advance.

Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Hmm. The right VUK on the subway continues to fire continuously over and over very rapidly. It's not a stuck switch or anything, so it looks like the issue lies somewhere else.

Quoted from jorro:

Picture of the mech please, can you manualy move the plunger in the coil? How is the coil bushing
Have you checked the switch matrix, the wireing and conector and pins at the boards?

Quoted from Neal_W:

There is a switch in the shooter lane. If the ball is not detected on that switch, it may not auto plunge.

Quoted from Neal_W:

No, if it does not operate during the coil test, its not the switch.

Quoted from Neal_W:

I have never worked on that, but I enjoy electronics. It appears it is driven by Q5 which gets its signal from D3.
Also, do you have the 50v at the coil?
[quoted image]

Quoted from spent85:

Hey folks,
Does anyone have any tips on how to replace the ball launcher? I got a replacement part from Stern, but it seems the original was soldered directly in. Am I best off just cutting the wires and attaching this new stern one in, or is it best for me to add a quick disconnect for the new Stern launcher to hook up to? I know this is a very simple question, but I am new to this and trying not to make more problems for myself! Thanks all.

Quoted from spent85:

I'm talking about a DE JP. The autolauncher replacement is a Stern style part (cross reffed with the manual), so it has a quick disconnect. The original launcher seems to be soldered directly in and has no quick disconnect anywhere near it. I am asking if anyone here has replaced their auto launcher and if they just snipped wired and did a quick solder to get the new one in, or if they had any tips on how to add a quick disconnect to this part. I do not own a 2019 JP though wish I did.

Quoted from spent85:

Ok folks,
Sorry again for my inital description. I hope these pictures will help along with my new explanation. Basically, I am trying to replace the auto launcher because the backstop (brass and rubber piece) is entirely missing. This obviously renders the game unplayable. I ordered a new part, and when it arrived it seemed to have a quick-disconnect type hookup. I looked at my machine, but it appears as though the wires for the auto launcher are maybe soldered directly in? I see no quick connect for it and it just ends up with all the other wires.
Initially, I thought I would just be able to replace this part, but now I'm wondering if my course of action is to split the current connection, figure out how to attach the other end of the quick connect and go to town. I fear soldering in the new piece would just make problems later if it ever needed replaced again. I am sorry that this is such a simple question, I just have never soldered before and would need to probably hire someone, so I want to be sure I know exactly what to ask for![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Turdbol:

Just to further update here, I have fixed the "6 balls missing" - this was due to 2 balls being in the same spot, and ultimately causing every ball to be missing the switch. I did a switch test - and all of them register. I checked the active switches and now troughs 1-6 are active.
Current problems....
1. Broken switch.
2. Coils associated to J1 not firing.

Quoted from ZAuxier:

Hey there, I'm curious what you all set as your replay score and award within a home environment? After upgrading to 6.0, mine was set around 200M, which I since lowered to 150M. I currently have the award set at "CREDIT", which obviously means nothing on free play so I'm thinking about switching this to "EXTRA BALL". The only thing stopping me is that I kinda feel like that's cheating?
What do you all have setup?

Quoted from 03whtlightning:

For clarification, when the ball goes into the double scoop(control room/bunker) the ball will kick out and go straight down the middle and into the trough. Under the playfield, the bunker assembly is secure. As far as the coil goes, it seems secure. There is some side to side play in the plunger though. I wonder if this is why it never seems to kick the ball out the same way?