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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

6 years ago

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  • 8,326 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Yaron
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#178 6 years ago

Aquiring a JP last Saturday, I can now officially join this club! Looking forward to getting it in top shape, as it needs some lovin', so havent been able to really play it yet. It has been turned off for 1,5 years before I bought it, and the main issues are:

1. Burnt raptor coil (and hence, maybe a transistor).
2. Left flipper is "sticking" in cradle-position for a second or two after cradling.
3. When holding in the right flipper, a rather loud distinct HUMMING noise is coming from beneath the pf..dunno if this is normal?
4. Control Room switch does not work, as is a usual problem. Anyone here experienced and fixed that?
5. DIRTY! Yeah, really dirty, but went over with Novus 1 and already it is starting to shine!

Any of you owners have any xperience with 2 - 4 above?

Not much to see yet, but below is some small pics of before cleaning and after a quick initial cleaning:


#181 6 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

They moved the diode in a service bulletin and later games have it further away from the switch mounted on the playfield, which makes it sort of weird to just say where it is. I replaced my switch and it still didn't work, found the diode was also detached.

Thanks for the input! Yeah It seems that my game has the diode separate, in addition to having it on the "normal" place, but probably one of them is active and the other is not? Posted in another topic but here are the pictures of that area (due to the angle the diode on the "normal placed" switch is not so visible, but its there):


3 weeks later
#187 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Anyone here going to Pinball Life Open House tomorrow? If so, check out the Jurassic Park there. It is running my code update. (Not available for distribution yet.)

Wont make it there from Norway where i Live, BUT I am looking very forward to getting your code update in my JP when its released

3 weeks later
#228 5 years ago

Dear fellow JP clubbers!
I have some questions, Ill start with nr 1, which is usually the best number to start with.
MY JP does not have any support brackets letting the playfield rest halfway out on the cabinet (bally/sega/Williams-style). I have attached a picture of the playfield. Is this normal, or could some former owner been a smart-ass and removed for some other games or something?

#229 5 years ago

Question (or observation) #2:
Earlier in this thread I made a post about my new JP I am fixing. MAIN pain in the ass is the raptor kickback blowing transistors. From the start the raptor coil had melted, and Q4 was dead, Q30 tested fine on the board.A short summary:

1. We soldered on a brand new coil coming with a diode on, soldered the wires on the correct side.
2. Soldered on a new Q4. Started the game, the coil locked on some seconds then retracted the plunger, as if on test. It smelled as if something burnt, but the coil was fine.
3. Q4 was dead again. But since the coil did not lock (ie not burning)on when starting the game again, we played for maybe 15 mins just checking how the game felt without the kickback.
4. When I started going over the game again yesterday, some weeks later,I was going to fix other stuff and do the raptor later since it didnt hurt playing without it for now. But I opened the backbox to find the ppb like this (see attached pictures). The R16 completely burnt and melted, leaving an ugly black trail up to the fuse F5,but it seems mostly cosmetical. Q4 looked as it had burnt even more, though being dead.

On further inspection, and a big note to self, "check all fuses". F6 (for the raptor/50V coils) had 5A, should be 4A. F7 and F9 had...wait for it 12A and 13A, should be 3A and 4A (if i remember correct). Fixed the fuses.

Can anyone explain or have theory on how the dead Q4 can continue burning and melting the R16 also, when the coil still is fine and not melted/melting? Can the F6 fuse that had 5A be so strong compared to 4A that it did not break when it should, and therefore allowing the voltage to continue grinding onto Q4 and R16?

Todo: If the ppb can be saved, have someone solder on the dead components (R16,D18,Q4) and also a new Q30 on the cpu board even though it tests fine. New fuses are correct rating, and the coil/diode seems fine. The J7 connector has no burn marks. Have to trace the cables all the way. If it after all this is done still not rottendog board....:/

PPB closer toast.JPG PPB back toast.JPG
#232 5 years ago

Thanks Russ, I sent them an email, cause there was no apparent webshop. Would be great to have some brackets, so it wont be so hard on the VUK coil

#233 5 years ago

Can it be confirmed that the "correct" raptor kick coil is AE 23-800? It seems according to the manual schematic that knocker/kickback is the same..?

#235 5 years ago

True. Although Marco sells them for 19.95 $ for each it seems, while from mantis it was 20 $ for the pair.

#245 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I notice your t-rex doesn't have a front in the pic you posted. Is it just removed for cleaning?

Would you be willing to post a close-up of the very bottom front of the t-rex without the front piece installed? I've removed mine so many times I can't remember how the horizontal spring at the bottom is supposed to be installed.

Hehe yeah I removed it because I had to do something, just dont remember what, because of the goddamn raptor pit issues Ive been struggling with lately
I am continuing with it on saturday at our game location, If its not too late i can take some pics of the t-rex front then

#250 5 years ago

I just bought a pair from Mantis, will see if I manage to connect them to my playfield, somehow

#260 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

How did you get in touch with them? I emailed, but haven't gotten a response yet.

I sent an email to this adress, which is also their paypal adress:

#271 5 years ago

Haha, nice wakeup call

1 week later
#286 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

That pic on Mantis' site isn't JP, is it? The pcb looks different.
Also, looking more at the one I posted, I think it's one nut and one screw. When I was looking at my pf, I noticed the only threaded rod sticking through that seemed long enough to do anything with from underneath was coming down through a t-nut. It might be one of the outlane guide posts or something coming down through the t-nuts on either side. That makes me think they might be pretty secure on JP, even with stock ones, but would maybe have to be removed when removing top-side hardware and got discarded at some point.

Edit: Just checked again and I'm pretty certain my assumption above is correct. I see screw holes by the t-nuts on either side. I forgot to note what component from the top side is coming down through the pf, though.

jp - support bracket.png 70 KB

So, I recieved the new DE brackets from Mantis and tried to find a place to connect them. Apparently there has been something fastened before, but it seems that they have been removed and the pf wood has started breaking up. Through the T-nut the screw going from the plastic beneath slingshot is supposed to go It seems.

This is how it looks on mine, anyone have any idea how to fasten the brackets with the current situation? Im afraid Ill start breaking the pf even more If I jam new screws in..

left_bracketside.jpg right_bracketside.jpg
#288 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Is the top-side not populated?

Yes it usually is, I'm just semi-shopping my JP while waiting for circuit boards to be repaired (and your T-Rex to be fully born, hehe ), so thats why the lane guide screws arent there I have already ordered some quikwood for fixing the scoops before putting on cliffy, so mayhaps I can use the quikwood for the screw holes too, or glue and toothpicks as you mention. Sounds engineer-ish

Thanks for the input!

1 week later
#297 5 years ago

A question regarding flippers on JP. I am going to do a flipper rebuild soon, but upon inspecting the current status of the flippers (they both are working), I saw something peculiar.

The following pictures is of each of the flipper-assemblies, and it seems that the EOS on the right side is...too short? When i move the flipper coil, the red ..thingy..does not touch the switch.
As opposed to the left side, where the red thingy touches the switch and moves it out.
But still, both were working fine before I started semi-shopping it.

Any have similar looks on their flippers, or any idea what this is good/not good for?

JP Right flipper EOS.jpg JP left flipper eos.jpg
#299 5 years ago

Yeah... Im wondering how :p although i guess doing a full flipper-rebuild is wise anyway.and i assume the left one is how its supposed to be?

#307 5 years ago

Following my last post on the former page, where one of the leafs on the eos-switch is broken:

I am starting to rebuild my flippers, and while taking pre-operation photos, I see that on the lugs of the EOS switch there are the remains of two wires that have been cut.. does anybody else have this on theirs? Could someone be so kind and post some photos of their flipper assemblies?

JP left flipper eos.jpg
#308 5 years ago

And here is the other end of the wires. I cant undestand the logic/reason of doing this...hmm

Cut Eos wires1.jpg
#312 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Have the schematics handy? I might be able to get a pic, but not until tonight.

Yeah I read some similar threads and it was mentioned that cutting of the eos wires will make the flippers have constant high power, as opposed to only getting high power when the all is flung from a kickback? Or I might have read it wrong.

Schematics, sortof, I found this in the manual on page 67, but need some time learning to interpret it correctly.Ill gladly take some tips

2 weeks later
#315 5 years ago

Just wanted to ask if some of you JP owners could check one thing for me:

When you start the game, along with the T-Rex testing, is it normal that the raptor coils "locks on" for a second or two, before retracting, as if it is testing itself?

Last time I had replaced the Q4, tip36, upon starting the game the coil locked on for some seconds before unlocking. The coil did not burn, but already the tip36 had gotten toasted.
Have replaced Q4, Q30 and fuses, and will start the game with a new coil tomorrow, so just thought Ill know if th raptor is self-testing or not.

#318 5 years ago

Thanks for the input!
Never mind what just wrote in this post (edit), my raptor is now officially working again! Finally!

Now only the minor stuff remains. Left flipper loosing grip when hit by raptor ball because of the previous owners hack, and such easy stuff

1 week later
#329 5 years ago

A new/old issue I thought to ask for help on;

My JP is working quite good, except 2 issues:

1. It seems to have a problem with the VUK on putting balls into play in multiball.
I get tri-ball, and it sometimes spit all balls out, sometimes jsut two balls.
When those two balls drain, it does not realize it hasnt kicked out the last ball lying in the VUK. I have to open the door and manually push the VUK-coil up for the ball to come into play. We are having a tournament next friday and I really want to have this fixed until them.

Anyone with the same problem/ some experience on this issue?

JP does not have optos, so I really dont know what is the problem. And the ball is always lying in the VUK, it just seems that it doesnt understand that theres a ball in the VUK, which it is supposed to kick into the plunger lane.

2. Last thing which was new and happened this evening, the autoplunger suddenly did not manage to kick the ball out from the plunger lane. It was if it did not have enough strengt, and it kicked the ball like 10-20 cms up, and then it fell down again and so it went on. After 10-15 tries it managed to get the ball out of the plunger lane but with poor strength. any idea/similar experience?

#334 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Mine had this problem when I got it and one of the mounting screws for the plunger assembly had worked out causing it to not be alinged to the shooter lane properly.

Hmm thats it one of the things Im suspecting, thanks for the input, i will check this out further tomorrow.

#341 5 years ago

MCV, if you can make that topper into a functional replacement for the ramp gate I'll gladly pay you for the item and the effort

2 weeks later
#361 5 years ago

A quickie, as I managed to loose some screw and some need replacing, during my last semi-shopping:

Could anyone tell me the different screws/bolts and their model-number which are marked with Red, yellow and Pink in the attached image?

Cannot find anything in the manual about the slingshot screws, although im sure they are very common in pinball

#369 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

The lane guide screws are standard #6/32 washer head screws. The far right one might longer than the other two to accommodate the prop bracket and a nut, so check the lengths. Probably 2-2 1/2".
The star posts screws are probably something like this for the one holding the ramp:
and this for the one not holding the ramp:
but you'll have to check if it's a machine screw (into a t-nut under the playfield) or a wood screw (directly into the playfield). If it's a wood screw, probably this:
Check all your measurements from other existing screws because there are several different sizes. Both in length and thickness.

Thanks! I must take the blame for messing up the terms. In the red and pink circles, what i meant was the (nylock) nuts, not the screws. Just forgot that it was called nuts in english do you know size and type these..errr, nuts are?

1 week later
#378 5 years ago

Will check this out, I must admit ive rarely had triball ready on ball 1 but not thought that much about it.

2 weeks later
#391 5 years ago

I just cannot get rid of Arnies eyes

#399 5 years ago

I bought them last fall, they really add something tot he game. My only comment is that 2 of 3 plastic pieces got "loose" where they were fastened and startet turning to the sides and falling off. I solved it by filling the hole with glue and sticking them on the metal bracket again.

But no complaints really, they look great!

#403 5 years ago

Yeah it is tempting, but i would go for the congo inner decals in my jp for the above reasons.

#405 5 years ago

Dont remember by heart, I'll try to find it and post tomorrow.

#407 5 years ago

Not exactly the same but maybe even cooler, from creature from the black lagoon: link » Like

#409 5 years ago

Yeah for that price it would be nice to at least get a print with unique trees and such, so to say. Guess the challenge is up for an artist who wants to earn som money =)

#417 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

It could be kind of like the playfield is the path between two electric fences with whatever scenery going on behind.

Cool idea.

1 month later
#522 5 years ago

Only reached system failure once, and was also just flabbing the flippers basically, its a total chaos (ka-ching) with 6 balls. But since its about getting as many switches as possible I would bet on bumpers

#526 5 years ago
Quoted from BigBangBack:

I tried to drain a few so I could focus on hitting shots

Only "problem" is that they are spit right back into the game

3 weeks later
#548 5 years ago

i have one, bought it from , but im sure pinballlife oer marco has it?

3 weeks later
#602 5 years ago

Okay, I really hoped not to have to come here with a problem so soon, after having my JP working almost flawless for half a year. but alas.. I need your input, dear JP owners Suddenly last week it seemed like all switches triggered and the machine was completely confused. After some switch checking, I observe this: (See attached image)

1. When slapping the cabinet, it triggers all switches in the bottom row in the matrix (marked in red). This also happened at itnervals without me touching cabinet, and the playfield up resting on te hackbox.
2. When activating the left slingshot, the corresponding row (marked in green) switches all trigger.
3. Likewise with the right slingshot and its corresponding row switches.

Also it seemed like the left t-rex movement switch was dead. I yanked abit on the wires to get them off the switch, and then suddenly it triggered again when pushing the leaf. Nevertheless I replaced the switch and connected wires, and it does not work now.

Any ideas or similar experiences?


#608 5 years ago
Quoted from Crispin:

Hey Edenecho for me it was a stupid resistor array above where the switches returned into the board.

Thanks, will look closer at that area. You mean that R116 or RA16 was faulty? Both rather close to eachother

#650 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

, but as soon as the ball would roll down and hit the rubber, all momentum was lost and would basically come to a dead stop. Always threw me off. Super Bands or no?

In my experience that is what superbands are for. Extra sticky making it easier for live catching and such So its just personal preference.

#662 5 years ago

Blindetall, really liked the led strip under the pterodactyls wing! Very smart and adding some light to the rather dark playfield

#674 5 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Check out Vid's Guide to rebuilding flippers and PM me with any questions, and I'll walk you through it.
I am very familiar with DE flippers and theory of operation.

Wel, to not fuck up the way I did; make sure you have the threads in the link the correct way else you can tighten and tighten until the world ends, without getting it tight enough

2 weeks later
#719 5 years ago

Would absolutelyr commend and their sunlight led. Not as cold as natural white and not as yellow-ish as warm white often can be


#726 5 years ago
Quoted from Johnc1983:

Thanks Morten - will check that one out and might give it a whirl to see what it looks like.

I will take some photos of mine soon, Its currently under maintenance due to...something. either a short or bursted transistor or switch. sigh.

#750 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Okay, I really hoped not to have to come here with a problem so soon, after having my JP working almost flawless for half a year. but alas.. I need your input, dear JP owners Suddenly last week it seemed like all switches triggered and the machine was completely confused. After some switch checking, I observe this: (See attached image)
1. When slapping the cabinet, it triggers all switches in the bottom row in the matrix (marked in red). This also happened at itnervals without me touching cabinet, and the playfield up resting on te hackbox.
2. When activating the left slingshot, the corresponding row (marked in green) switches all trigger.
3. Likewise with the right slingshot and its corresponding row switches.
Also it seemed like the left t-rex movement switch was dead. I yanked abit on the wires to get them off the switch, and then suddenly it triggered again when pushing the leaf. Nevertheless I replaced the switch and connected wires, and it does not work now.
Any ideas or similar experiences?

Thought id update on this issue:
Q50 is dead. I suspect the leafs for mosquito captice ball made contact a little too long and therefore blew it (sounds like a cause?) But i bent and made the gap wider so it doesnt trigger by slapping the machine. So will replace q50 and hope that solves it. But darn small transistors, 2n3904...

#762 5 years ago

This would probably be: F8 = 4a slo-blo (+50 volt playfield coils. )

usually the fuse voltages and ampere will be noted inside the backbox, but also in the schematics. It seems the manual on is not complete with the PPB schematics, but I have the manual in our club and can check if necessary.

#767 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I'm going to have to read up on that site bleacher bum and infinite lives posted. Apears that I really need to make sure everything is correct. That F8 fuse has obviously been blown before fairly recently. The blown one hasn't oxidized like the other ones have.
Makes me think there's more going wrong. With that, the VUK, and the left flipper.
Really wish I knew more about electronics like this.

I bought a faulty JP in October last year, had two dead transistors due to raptor coil burn etc, and didnt know shit about electronics before that so the learning goes fast when you have to learn and fix because you wanna play keep it up!

1 week later
#799 5 years ago

Best feeling in the world, next to coitus! Unless its bad coitus. Then clean ramps instead

1 week later
#816 5 years ago

Mine too arent so sensitive, as opposed to x-files where the ball is flung in superspeed away if it even dares to look in the direction of the slingshots

I havent done anything to my slingshots though. I see it differs quite alot between machines, maybe biggest difference between new sterns and older W/B games...might be just because of age or if it hasnt been taken care of properly? Answers are welcome

#819 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I was hoping to get to current Stern slingshottyness. But its not happening. Not sure what the difference would be. Like I said, pretty much everything except for the coil is new. Maybe the coils just aren't that powerful?

Might be worth trying a more powerful coil. Please post back if you try it

1 week later
#841 5 years ago

Finally after some downtime the park is open again! I did my first board transistor soldering and it went well

Issue: The machine went into slam tilt when plunging the ball.
Troubleshooting: revealed that whenever a switch on column driven by Q50 was hit, it fired all switches on that row. When having playfield up in switch mode it randomly fired some switches. Upon closer switch inspection for that column, I found that the mosquito switch was almost always closed, that is, closing randomly. That led me to believe that during a game the switch must have stuck for too long and killed the transistor. Tested the transistor and it was surely Danny D.

SOlution: Remove dead transistor and solder on a new. Start game. Play!


1 week later
#853 5 years ago

I somehow lost one of the screws holding the control room switch in place, does any of youknow what the correct type is to buy? By using the manual i searched the part number on marco and it said that part was replaced by this one (on pinballcenter since thats where i buy from) i linked to in the top. But it looks way too long....

would be great if anyone could confirm this or shove me to the correct one

The correct one according to manual:

The one which is mentioned to replace the above one:

1 month later
#1025 5 years ago

Regarding the raptor coil and corresponding transistors, check my thread:

#1032 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thanks Edenecho what pages in manual cover raptor coil? Thanks

Should be bottom half of page 31.

#1043 5 years ago

Does anyone have a link to the correct screw for fastening the JP topper to the backbox?

#1071 5 years ago

Can someone confirm that its only the left flipper on JP that should have a EOS switch connected, and, having the playfield standing up resting on the backbox;

The (inner) leaf closest to the coil should be the BLU-VIO,
and the outer leaf should have the BRN-VIO connected?

#1073 5 years ago

okay, I have rebuilt flippers for earlier this year so it has new eos leafs, but I cannot find the wires that should be there on the right one

For the left flipper, the eos wires were cut and taped together, I was thinking of soldering them back on just need to confirm the correct leafs to solder them to.

But strange thing, now when I tried to starte the game the right lower flipper is totally dead. Only the upper right responds. wierd.

The only thing i have "messed with a little" is the flipper leafs, but it is normally closed and when pressing the flipper button it is open. that should be correct?

#1076 5 years ago

Its getting weirder:

The Blue/Violet and brown-violet eos wires were taped together with electrical tape, AND soldered together. dunno if that has any significance. But I taped them together again.

When pressing in the right flipper button, the flipper coil tries to pull but gets too little power. If I "help" it by pushing in the plunger, it goes in and is holding the flipper up.
Both coils measure 32.4 ohms. (or 0,3 i assume)

Is this pointing to a specific issue?

#1077 5 years ago

Alright, found the issue:

The two EOS wires had to be soldered together to make it closed. So soldered them together and the right flipper works.
Will just leave it at that for now.

#1081 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Yeah, this is bad. Previous owner didn't know what they were doing. With it how it is, DO NOT CRADLE THE BALL. If you hold the flipper too long, you'll blow a fuse.
What's happening now is that the EOS is being bypassed (obviously). The EOS switch tells the game to put the coil in to low power hold mode. As it is, you're pouring full power into the flipper all the time, and that's bad.
Desolder those wires and put your EOS back in line. Violet wire on the lug nearer the coil, brown on the further one.

Alright, thanks
Although to be noted; have played this game since january in its current state and has never broken a fuse. but will fix it while Im on it

No sign of the wires for the right flipper eos though

#1083 5 years ago

I soldered the EOS wires together again, as they have been before.
Yeah thats the thing, in our club people are cradlers, so I dunno.... but, I will solder them on, in any case

#1124 5 years ago

Im having issues with the scoop light mods loosening from their brackets due to normal playing.have tried gluing them onto the "sticks" again but it doesnt hold. Any tips? Better superglue?

#1127 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

Hey Edenecho, I've recently switched to using an araldite epoxy glue for these. It tends to hold much better than super glue. I hope that isn't too much trouble! It took a while of selling these to get feedback that super glue was failing.

I will see if I can find something similar to use, or glue the wireup the back as also suggested

#1130 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

If you're happy running wire up the back then go for it! The reason I prefer to glue it sticking straight in the back is to have the minimal amount of hardware showing through when backlit.

Agree on this, so wire back will probably be a last resort.

#1138 5 years ago

Original, there are three times ive seen the trex eat the balls:

1. First time you hit trex saucer for T - letter
2. During feed trex mode
3. When statting multiball in trex saucer

maybe he removed the ..ball eating from 1 and maybe 3 to not kill the "flow"? Will test the new code on thursday.

#1141 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I love the fact that the egg is worth shooting now. It's awesome!

Really excited to try this out. In a way it will be a sort of a..bash the egg x times for multiball ready

#1142 5 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

Immediate drains shouldn't have been an issue before either, as that wasn't overly changed.

In our tournaments it has often been an issue, the ball hits the bumpers for a second too long, and then sometimes exits down the middle.

1 week later
#1190 5 years ago

Are the alternative orange ones officially made from DE? were they made afterwards because of demand? and if so, why not make them blue too? Costs less to reuse the same print, than editing it

1 week later
#1329 4 years ago

If you have not attached the bracket by wednesday ill be back from vacation and will take some photos of the mantis brackets installed. But i basically did what winteriscoming said. For two holes i just screwed the screw straight into the wood.

#1353 4 years ago

Wow that was a really strange white spot. Have you tried some novus on the underside? Is the coil working/burnt?

2 weeks later
#1448 4 years ago

I would use Molex connector, and trifurcons, I had some connector issues when i bought my JP, and the lights in backbox were off or unstable. Tried IDC and punch tool but was hopeless, so I just bought new molex connectors, trifurcons and it works like a charm.

Are you familiar with how trifurcon and molex work?

#1489 4 years ago

Do you have the newest code, phollibone?

1 month later
#1619 4 years ago

Got some comments (and sortof agree) that my pop bumpers are a bit...pussy
I miss some real snap and quick action when the ball is launched into them.

Im thinking first see if I can adjust the switch leafs abit, and/or then perhaps rebuild them.
Does anyone know if its possible to get modern stern quickness in the pops if they are rebuilt?

#1624 4 years ago

Thanks alot for the tips, will have a cleaning/adjustment of the pops as soon as I get to it! Will report back.

#1639 4 years ago

I prefer just the usual one credit for replay, and then some credits for nr 1 and Gc.

3 weeks later
#1733 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one got pics of how they prop their playfield when they work on it? Not like straight up, but when you pull it out towards the coin door. There arent any brackets on mine l, id like some rails or something. Would make it so much easier to do work on it.

I had the same issue, the original ones had broken off before i bought it. I bought new from mantis and just screwed them in using wood screws.

#1736 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thought I include this here too. Everything was good and then this : (
If the ball hits my left flipper while in the held/cradle/lift position at the right angle with fast speed it will cause the flipper to automatically fall down, resulting in a drained ball. No idea why this is happening as the flippers have plenty of power - it's just in this specific position (while held) if the ball hits the end point it causes this. If it hits the flipper with full speed while held but in the middle of the flipper or somewhere other than the farthest end (so far right part of the left flipper), it's fine....

Maybe the end of stroke switch isnt wired? My jp had the wires to the eos switch cut when i bought it.

2 weeks later
#1820 4 years ago

I posted earlier regarding very weak bumpers. Well, I cleaned the switch contact points and minimized the gap for each bumper. holy shit what a difference! Now its actually fun to shoot for the bumpers!

I shot a short gameplay video for another reason, but you can still see quite some intense and rapid bumper action when the ball gets there.

#1822 4 years ago

uhm, well, they did not really bounce the ball much around, so I guess...sluggish?
I think the main problem was the gap was too big bwteen the switch leafs. Now its actually worth something shooting into the pops in stampede, or actually managing to save timmy

#1874 4 years ago

I have that issue, but I assumed it was a VUK switch problem? That it does not always manage to spit out all balls, cause it thinks all balls are on the playfield.

1 month later
#2096 4 years ago

I am sorry to say I have now left the club as an owner.. was not easy, but after suddenly winning pinballraffle and upgrading to a premium walking dead (plus vat into Norway) and then suddenly got the chance to buy a barely used GoT for a good price, something had to give :/

It was fun while it lasted!

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