If any of you guys are thinking of parting ways with your JP - message me as I'm looking to buy one ASAP. cash ready!
how many of you guys have that buzzing noise or hum when you play in game? I've seen a number of these now and a lot display this buzzing noise - some worse than others. Just curious if anyone does NOT have this noise.
Quoted from woody24:
Here's an interesting JP on ebay.
ebay.com link » Jurassic Park Data East 1992 Huo Machine
Few things. At first glance, it says it's HUO. But seems that there's been some repairs to it. Speaker Grills aren't OEM. Pop bumper caps aren't OEM. It's missing the right side plastic guard just above the VUK.
But one thing that stands out is that it say "1 Smart Bomb Per Game." Bomb. Missile is the common one. There was a guy selling a NOS playfield that says Smart Bomb. Said he confirmed that it was a later production playfield.
But there's other stuff with the playfield that look too much like they were on purpose. And was wondering if this later production made these changes.
The posts around the slingshots are all metal. This one seems to have added the right outlane post. The right wireform actually has an OEM mounted plate with a hole in it to mount rubber too. I say OEM, because I don't see any messy weld marks, and it looks straight. There is a post infront of the left Egg Post in front of the TRex. (which would completely block the ball from feeding trex after hitting the egg. I love that shot.) And the playfield art of the Jurassic Park sign in front of the ramp isn't covered up by the ramp guide.
Just find it curious. Was this a really late JP, and they ran out of parts and threw this one together? Love that the wireform has a stopper on it, instead of just the two prongs. Just seems a bit odd some of the changes that were made.
Seller is not being truthful or doesn't know. He's reached out to me a number of times and I told him no. It's not HUO in fact he's tried to sell it numerous times all on diff websites yet refuses to drop the price to anything realistic. That being said, even if he did the seller is not hones and I wouldn't buy.
I need to buy LEDs for my Jurassic. Want to replace all lights. I see a lot of people use blueish white which appear to be a comet only LED. If I don't go with a kit, does anyone have a layout or instruction of what I need to buy? I would like to have a greenish and/or white/bluish GI and then just everything else straight LED replacements. Suggestions
Guys looking to do some touch up on the cab. Pretty minor but at the same time easy. Knowing not all black is the same, does anyone know what paint to get? Black is top priority but if you know the red yellow and white, please post. Not aware of any dedicated pinball places that sell paint that matches.....
if anyone wants to sell me the plastic that is to the left of the shooter right under the flying bird, send me a PM. Willing to pay $$! haha thanks!
Quoted from koops:
crosspost -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-jp-plastic-scans-to-have-plastic-protectors-created
"Pinbits has said that they are willing to create a set of plastic protectors for 'Jurassic Park', however Pam has requested a set of plastic scans and pictures from the game. I can provide Pam with pictures from the game, however, I cannot provide her with plastic scans. Does anyone know where I may be able to get a set of plastic scans for JP?"
will pinbits attempt to create a plastic set as well to replace broken ones or is it just to protect existing ones? Seems like big market for plastic replacement so hopefully the former.
I just realized today that the raptor makes a sound everytime you press the flipper (I believe it's a raptor - some dino sound plays each time). It's starting to get on my nerves. Anyway to turn that off?
5.01. You know what? You're right - it is scoring everytime!! haha. Didn't even realize that. Based on this do you know what switch might be the best to start with...?
"Spitter #3" top is the culprit.....after pressing the left flipper it says spitter #3 top after it says left flipper. Same with right (spitter #3 top). Any idea where that is? Maybe the kickout? How would I fix that?
Says green yellow white orange #27 below spitter #3...
EDIT - so I found the switch - it's the top red drop target of the three. No idea though how to fix it....
When updating to the latest code, is it necessary to install the display rom AND the CPU rom or is installing the CPU 6.0 rom sufficent and you can keep the display rom as is?
thanks Chad - just curious (new to updating roms) - why is that? Seems like the CPU is controlling everything and telling the DMD what to display. Are there new DMD images that the older display roms can't display and if so, do you have an example? again - just curious as new to this whole thing.
New code is awesome btw.
guys - suggestions on how to keep an absolutely ripped ramp shot from falling off the wireframe? Usually the ball is fine coming down but when it goes really really fast it often (not always) falls off the wireframe portion of the ramp. Suggestions on how to have it work perfectly?
OK - i checked and it's the diverter. Moved so it was pointing more towards the other ramp and it worked. thanks
Guys - what are the best ways to get the ball to trex? I find shooting to the extra ball and then waiting for it to come back down and hitting with top flipper. Any others?
As for the scans, hopefully those can be used to reproduce plastics too - 3dprinter ; )
Could any of this lead to additional plastics being made (not plastic protectors)? If I didn't already have a full time job, I would invest to repro the plastics just for a year and watch the money pour in as everyone has a cracked plastic!
It seems like even if someone were to reproduce and take of the jurassic park name - they would still sell like hotcakes. Hell majority are just trees, and random dinos!
If anyone wants to trade their blue bumper plastics for my orange, PM me. Willing to throw in some money too. Thanks!
thanks for the tips guys. I'm still trying to get a blue pair of sling plastics. Anyone ever see these? I have orange now. I can find the left blue but not the right. Thinking about just mixing them....
two gameplay questions:
1) Any incentive to shoot the dino quicker on the opening shot or can you wait to time it and not lose any bonus?
2) Having a hard time lining up the two red switches in b.w the green dino ones in the middle of the table (next to the bottom right bumper and the control panel). Any tips on hitting these (besides luck) as I believe the only way to equip multi is to get all of the dino switches (6). I could swear that these two get registered on an egg shot but might be wrong....
OK - I do have the code and will check this out! So the game will give you all targets by getting either of these? Seems easy enough. What exactly triggers a blinking dock or raptor walking by on the DMD?
Also - if this gives you all targets, does it even make sense to hit the targets or just wait for one of these two?
Any answer on whether you get more points for shooting the Dino on the first pass or can you wait a few passes and still get the most points? This is the skill shot in the beginning.
anyone know about the skill shot and waiting vs doing it quick being more points? Just don't understand if it's not more points, why shoot until you know for certain.
I'm still looking for blue sling plastics if anyone wants to part as I will give you my orange plus cash....
As of this morning, it appears my powershed shot is not keeping the control room lit indef. S doesn't register for chaos either. However when I check the switch test and put the ball down, two switches go off and I believe I manually trigged the switch in which the ball rolls over in that clear tunnel under the table and it works. Any suggestions on what not be working that is preventing the powershed from full working (indef control room light and S for chaos)?
btw - the powershed does light up too. When the control room light is full due to it being first ball and i hit that shot, it turns the control room light off and the powershed lights up so I think electrical is fine right? Am I missing a switch to test somewhere?
on a random note - the bumpers don't change the mode lit for potential control room shot right (ala GnR) everytime they're hit right? I'm on the latest code btw.
Quoted from markp99:
Check the diode solder joint at the Powershed switch - I've repaired mine a few times over the years. This is a common mechanical failure due the beating that area takes.
Some JPs have the diode attached right on the switch legs (like mine), others have a wire lead flying over to a remotely attached diode (probably a better approach).
Edit: Sorry, was the Control Room switch's diode for me - not Powershed.
OK - mine has it attached to the legs. What do you suggest I do to attempt to repair? I've replaced switches before entirely but not adjusted diode. In my case, switch is registering so that seems fine but maybe to your point, switch could be fine but diode could be the issue?
also - I believe this is the right switch I'm looking at that would make the powershed work right. It's the one beneath the playfield in the clear tunnel that leads to the VUK that spits the ball out. That's correct?
Quoted from markp99:
On my JP, with the cracked joint on the Control Room diode, the game does not resister hits to the control room. No other symptoms.
Inspect the joint, wiggle it, look for a loose connection on the switch leg. Touch with a soldering iron to reflow if needed.
I'd check the other CHAOS diode legs just for yucks as long as you're under the playfield.
connections look good on both legs and the diode looks good too. Did some wiggling but no luck. Again - when I manually press the switch down the game records it so I don't believe it's broken. hmmmmmm
EDIT - checked the switch I've been pressing and it says TREX through #59. Not sure that's power shed....maybe I'm looking at the wrong one? Checked #60 and that works fine too.
if someone knows how the power shed at least works (e.g., what is the switch that causes the S to be registered, I can use that info to find out my problem so even that would be helpful
appreciate the help. I don't have any spare diods but maybe I can buy some. I just tried switch tests again and mine is showing that #60 is the switch that is used for the Dino chomp return (when the ball is eaten it goes down into the tunnel and trips #60 then hits the vuk. I believe it's #59 that the powershed will trip. Seems like you're seeing the opposite?
Also - how would i go about replacing just the diode on the switch? It sounds like you're saying the switch might be registering however if the diode went bad it still will prevent it from working?
Weird - I see what you're saying and even reading the manual you would expect switch 60 to be the powershed one but it's not as the game recognizes it as 59 as I'm manually depressing it so it's def wired that way. I guess either way, if it's 59 or 60 it seems to be the switch diode? I rather no replace, solder the entire switch if it's truly not that and I don't have a diode right now to check. What do you suggest is the best plan of action as I already tried to bend/wiggle and no luck. Just a killer that the game actually recognizes the switch when pressed yet still doesn't work? I would just hate to replace and it still not be fixed. When does a switch work but yet doesn't have the function assign to it work properly? so weird.
EDIT - checked the wiring and it's def 59. The white orange wire is connected to the switch which on that chart says 59. Trex works perfectly fine - in fact everything works fine (control room included) - just this damn powershed which worked fine until today!
EDIT 2 - just tried dropping the ball in during diagnostics and seeing what would happen and the ball doesn't appear to be hitting the switch on it's way to the VUF.
EDIT 3 - in game, even if I trigger the switch myself (59) under the table while the powershed lit, it doesn't keep the control room lit. Damn....
I think I figured it out. Really weird but I think it's the wires being switch. In chaos mode if I stick the ball into the trex mouth, as it swallows it, the S from the power shed goes out as if I was hitting the powershed shot. The game must be recognizing the powershed shot as the trex chomp but what's weird is if I get the trex shot it still shows a light on the left side to signify I hit trex.
I think the easiest way for me to fix this is to unscrew the switches from both of their areas and swap them right? Otherwise, I would need to detach the wires from both switches and solder back on which is much more of a POS.
thanks again for all your help.
EDIT - it def the prob. I can put the ball in the trex mouth and the powershed shot actually goes out and the control room is back online.
FIXED! Simple as swapping the switches. Apparently 59 switch was in the 60 location and 60 was in 59 location which led me to find out that if i fed the TreX with the ball the powershed would register and control room would light. After the swap of putting 59 and 60 in the right location in the subway, it all works. Glad I didn't try to replace them! Thanks again for your help.
hey guys - just today, my machine when started on a cold boot will say 1 ball missing. It will then shoot a ball out. I then press start and it does the same thing (shoots ball out) and does this two more times until it finally allows me to start. When the game starts, it's perfect. All balls are in their holding area so not sure why it does this on a cold boot. It does not do this after completing one game and leaving it on. Any thoughts?
EDIT - so fixed my missing ball message. Moved the cord underneath linked to the ball tray and it fixed it. Must have been the position. all good.
Thought I include this here too. Everything was good and then this : (
If the ball hits my left flipper while in the held/cradle/lift position at the right angle with fast speed it will cause the flipper to automatically fall down, resulting in a drained ball. No idea why this is happening as the flippers have plenty of power - it's just in this specific position (while held) if the ball hits the end point it causes this. If it hits the flipper with full speed while held but in the middle of the flipper or somewhere other than the farthest end (so far right part of the left flipper), it's fine....
Quoted from Edenecho:
Maybe the end of stroke switch isnt wired? My jp had the wires to the eos switch cut when i bought it.
Thanks but the flippers worked fine before so don't believe that's it.... : (
EDIT - looked into this end if stroke concept and it def sounds like it could be related. Question is how do I check for this...
Taken from a previous topic:
What end of stroke does do you for you is this. If you are holding up the flipper and the ball smacks into it hard, with end of stroke, the ball may move the flipper down and the system will know that because EOS is not triggered to send another pulse to reposition the flipper all the way up. Without EOS, the only symptom will be that if you are holding a flipper button in and the ball smacks it, the flipper may drop down until you press the flipper button again.
I think I need to bend the EOS to make it work better - question is in what direction?
Thanks - I actually just did that and just so I understand how this switch works.
With no button pressed (just stationary flipper position) the switch appears to make contact (the two pieces touch each other). When I press the flipper button, this red piece will eventually move and push one part of the switch away from the other so they no longer make contact. When you release the flipper the two will touch again.
What is exactly happening here? For example, when the two touch does that mean full power is in the coil and when they separate the coil goes into low power mode so if I were to hold the flipper it doesn't burn it out? If so, I think bending the one part when the flipper is in the hold position towards the other should enable the two to touch quicker which should shoot more power into the flipper so it stays. The problem is that it might cause a flipper "flip" as the higher power is kicking in all at once at almost causes it to flip by itself.
If someone can explain how it should be so I can bend it so it matches, that would be helpful.
OK I fixed it with adjusting it based on this thread. It's very helpful - distance of the two is pictured as well (EOS Switch):
just curious of what coils people are using for home use only flippers on this machine? Part number would be helpful and if it's the stock coil or if it's less or more powerful than stock.
does anyone know the coil # for data east games that is less powerful than the standard 090-5020-030? Is it just 090-5020-020?
Not sure if this is obvious for others but I thought my flippers were too strong as they were just rebuilt BUT after changing out the type of posts by the ramp, the shots work perfectly (no balls taking off) and I still have a ton of power. Never knew the post material could make that big of a difference.
guys - I don't know what I did but I lifted the table to check something and when I put it back down, started the game, the VUK started going by itself. TREX doesn't move now and after I picked the table back up the VUK stopped but as soon as I put it back down it starting going crazy again. The only thing i can see is a wire that might have been cut when I put the table down. Does anyone know where this white and blue is expected to go? Table was perfect and now it's like this : (
Need to know where this wire circled in yellow goes? Seems like it's causing the issue.
appreciate this!!! This must be the issue related to my VUK and trex as both happened at the same time.
Little confused. Where you circled I thought is where the broken wire connects to. I can find where the blue white wire is coming from on my machine (it's in a harness with a ton of other wires) but I don't see where that other end should go (which is likely to the end that broke off...) I am holding that end with my finger
Thanks I soldered it on and it didn't help anything. This is SO weird.
Game has been perfect. I lift the table up, tweak my flipper and then put it down. When I put on the game the VUK is going off by itself and it shoots two balls out. The trigger for the gun actually makes the slingshots go off! It's like the game has become possessed out of nowhere. Egg shot goes off too.
Where do I begin here?
Quoted from InfiniteLives:
go into switch test mode and see if anything is on that should be, and also kinda shake or tap on the playfield and see if you can find a switch that might be finicky. i had a finicky switch on the ramp that was causing issues on things that it wasnt even tied to in the switch matrix and when i fixed that switch all my other issues went away.
also, there is a chance one or more of your transistors on your solenoid driver board is bad, you could test those and see if they need replaced
GENIUS! Did the switch test and after pressing on them all - two of them were registering as 5! I adjusted them and now it's perfect! Thanks! Holy SHIT pinball machines are sensitive - one wrong switch and the whole thing is haywire!
Forgot to mention that my Jurassic originally had that typical high buzzing sound that JPs have when in standby mode. I ended up replacing the stock speakers with pinball pro and not only are they much better but the buzz is gone completely.....
Spitter mode and Stampede - anyone else feel like these modes are a waste or am I doing it wrong? Seems very similar, just hitting random targets which likely result in drains.
yeah I know they're diff tech but essentially hit targets. Poppers for my are death valley. Seems like I always drain.
Quoted from Darscot:
I have an LED in my JP and I have never noticed any ghosting. As to the LCD vs LED debate, I have an LCD in my AC/DC and have never used the additional modes. The only way I could recommend LCD is if you an incandescent guy and want a softer display. If you have LEDs in your machine go LED display, if in doubt go LED, the hassle free install is a perk too.
Don't agree. I'm led lights all the way but you lose so many options with the presentation of the dots with led option. Some games look better than others but I wouldn't say if you like LEDs you should go LED color DMD. I generally get LCD.
looking to rejoin the club. If anyone has a nice one they want to sell, PM me. Thanks!
Quoted from jorro:
And placed an explorer behind my functioning gate[quoted image][quoted image]
Does your TREX have diff teeth? If so, where/how? haha
I personally don't mind the TREX in this game as is but new teeth wouldn't be bad!
As for side blades - I was thinking of getting the same ones. Not 100% sure. Looking at this one too:
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
This is not my recording, but gives a good overview of the orchestration. Also, I have modified mine slightly with more/different callouts. Happy to make it available to others, but Endprodukt's original version is near perfection for this game.
Also, I've tried playing with original orchestration (you can have multiple ones at the same time on PinSound and switch between them), but I just can't after playing with the new one - it completely changes the game.
thanks! Any chance you can upload a video of this in action from your machine? Hard to tell what the main theme is that plays outside of modes.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
You ask, I deliver. I even almost made it to shut-down mode. Forgot to take the glass off, but shouldn't be too big of a bother. Enjoy.
Awesome will listen now.
Btw I'm def getting mirror blades after seeing yours
Did you buy them from pinball side mirrors?
What is stock outlane setting? 1,2 or 3rd hole (top to bottom)? Mine is top hole on both....
Also flippers align with the metal guides below or the traditional hole? Mine are hole and they get up very well.... Machine is in amazing condition must say. Kudos to previous owner
When I hit the Trex loop from top right flipper is it expected to return right back to the right flipper for continuos loops bc mine very rarely does. It hits that wall which causes the ball to bounce as little too far left of the flipper.
It doesn't drain like someone else had an issue with and I checked the divider metal is not bent.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
Yes, it should. I had similar issue which I addressed here:
- My problem: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/108#post-4886204
- The resolution: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/108#post-4886713
You say the diverter metal is not bent, but it is all about the path the ball takes on the final corner as it loops around. I guarantee the shape of that metal piece is not allowing the ball to make a nice smooth transition.
I figured it out. Thanks
I think I'm going to add a post to my left outlane. It's brutal right now. Anyone have the part/ link for that?
Quoted from newovad:
Go back in time and buy winteriscoming 's T-Rex, go forward in time and buy winteriscoming 's T-Rex, plop down a bunch of money and purhcase someone else's winteriscoming 's T-Rex or make your own out of a takeout container like someone else in the thread did. One guy bought a T-Rex hand puppet and used that.
haha ok I thought it was still for sale....
If I remember the redone trex was like 400+ or something.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
I'm starting work on developing a 3D printed version of just the teeth to use with OEM T-Rex. Not sure when I will be ready to share (need a lot of trial & error testing).
Nice! I actually like the TREX they have now. Teeth would be the necessary upgrade. Keep me posted!
well just finished my LED conversion for my JP (all comet LEDs - they're the best for lighting). Also - I put a giant LED strip in the back to light up that backboard plastic and banner - thought it came out well as I can now see it!
All that is left is to add is loop combo for the scoops which are in the mail (desperately need those) and mirrors. This is a very nice example of JP and there are stapled pieces of paper covering the area that I need to access to unluck those lug nuts. Pretty cool. Must have come that way from factory. See attached.
that looks fantastic - great job
I never thought the mold was the problem. It was always the lack of killer teeth and this solves that completely. Must have mod imo.
I do think the off color white would be best -
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
Here is an off white rendering for those of you who were curious.[quoted image]
Off white looks great. Pm me when ready to sell. Want a pair.... And I'm not even sure how long I'm keeping this now bc tmnt might be coming out and something has to go but damn it those teeth look fantastic
Must have mod for sure. Totally makes the trex look menacing! I always loved the mold but thought it looked like a bird. Now it looks much better. Great job
Off white ftw
Quoted from Nachopark:
Actually that’s interesting, a quick search showed me that it’s not supposed to be there at all. Time to git gud at pinball I guess. It’s just weird that there is a little hole there that looks like you could screw one in.
My pinball was heavily shopped so I’m adding stuff back in like crazy
I ended up adding one too mine and seemed to be an option since it was pre drilled. Without it the game is a left lane drain monster.... But I'm also not very good!
I put a very small rubber around it and it's a perfect addition
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
I wanted to let everyone know that I had an opportunity to play the new Stern Jurassic Park LE yesterday, and I must say that I was pleasantly surprised. It is a very different game than our original in appearance, layout, toys, and ruleset, and it is a very nice game in its own right. The T-Rex is pretty awesome, the helicopter is cool, and overall all the other features of this pin made it a lot of fun. I think the key is to not view it as a remake or sequel (which it is not, of course), but to take it on its own merits. Also, I had absolute no issue with the minimal licensing integrations. It still follows the them with sound and video of the JP movie (the opening helicopter scene landing in front of the waterfall is really cool), but it just doesn't use actual footage or the voice actors from the movie.
I won't be buying one anytime soon (or ever), as my caviar taste doesn't align with my chips & salsa budget, but I don't think there is anything for us original owners to be jealous or resentful about. If you want two different games with the same theme, then these two are definitely different is so many ways that you could have both in your collection. If you only want one and you stay with the DE version, then you should be happy and enjoy it. If you want the latest new technology, then I can confidently recommend that you will enjoy the new version and probably wouldn't miss your DE JP if you were to depart with it.
Well said. I feel the same way and currently getting the premium version very soon so I'll own both for now which definitely works. Stern did a great job with it and best of all the two compliment each other very well as what one lacks the other has.
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