(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club

By louknees

5 years ago

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  • 7,155 posts
  • 417 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by jamex
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4444 1 year ago

Hello everyone,

I am on my way to join JP club... I don't know the pin at all, never seen in person. My son is a fan of Jurassic movies, now you have an idea of my direction.
Going to check one pin within days. Can you give me some hint what to check in this pin, any pin specific/sensitive part, any unobtainable part...

Thanks in advance.

#4448 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Most important is to check Full functionality of the trex. A broken motor can set you back easily usd 100. There are two motors, for up down and 1 for left right. And original plastics are also rare. There are repro’s made however. But than some color differences can be expected.
For the rest just the usual as with other pins.

Thanks! Is the Trex body itself available (or any mod)?

#4459 1 year ago

Is this a rare part?

image-24 (resized).jpg
#4462 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Am on holiday now but I think I know somebody who has this part lying around from dissembling a JP long time ago. Don’t know how nice it is though. If you are missing it should me a PM after August 1 so I can dig it up with my friend and ask if he wants to sell it.

Thanks, will contact you soon. Enjoy your holiday!

#4468 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

You may still be able to track down original bodies, or at least some parts of it, but I would suggest not buying a game with missing parts unless you're getting a really good deal.

They're rarely available and only in the US, but there is an updated T-rex body. I'm the one who makes it.

PM sent.

#4476 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.
Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.

Looks nice. What is the reason of clear coat? Cosmetic or practical thing, or both?

1 month later
#4520 1 year ago

What is the best source of pterodactyls and full plastic set?

#4524 1 year ago

New pin has been arrived Topper is in the box, waiting for installation.
My first Data East.

20180907_212801 (resized).jpg

#4526 1 year ago
Quoted from shepP:

Welcome to the club! With all of your knowledge and the cool upgrades you do with machines it should be a blast having you own one.

Thanks! As 1st step, I've ordered CPR plastic set and plastic protectors from Pinbits. And yes, a well refurbished and nicely (but not heavily) modded JP is looking really good.

#4531 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Cpr just added Jurassic park to the "some day" playfields list y'all.

They have the artwork.

"We’d typically like to see 40-50 people unofficially onboard, for any title here, to graduate to a Standard Pre-Order."

#4535 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

Other than minor hole wear, mine looks good. Would be cool to put on a brand new playfield, but I say it wouldn't be worth the cost and trouble to switch everything over.

Other than major hole wear, mine looks good.

20180909_161021 (resized).jpg
#4540 1 year ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Maybe they can touch up Nedry's fingers and a few of the other blatant artistic failings while they're at it!

That makes sense. As I know they are willing to digitally print to old playfields (of course after removal of old paint layers), instead of CNC cut new wood from scratch. For small runs, and for relatively cheap games, it makes sense.

1 week later
#4568 1 year ago

Old vs. polished

20180804_092619 (resized).jpg20180810_173632 (resized).jpg
#4576 1 year ago

Help please. Shoot T-rex lamp doesn't work. The red/green wire under the playfield is going nowhere after the IDC connector.
What is the location of associated diode?

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#4590 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

Did you get an answer?
If not, let me know and I'll take a look tonight.

Yes, I've got pictures from hawkeyexx. Thanks again, and also for your offer.
Now that lamp is working. Next task is to stabilize ball trough. This Data East design is a bit... Not very well done.

#4593 1 year ago

Old vs. 3D printed new
20180929_184555 (resized).jpg

#4595 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

That thing takes a beating. I wonder how it will hold up over time. I have printed stuff for my game before but nothing that actually gets hit by the ball.

The material is ABS. Should not be an issue, especially at home environment.
If I have to change it... I can get a new one in 2 hours from the printer.

#4597 1 year ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

nice, can't beat the turnaround time. You should print it in translucent yellow filament that way you can light it up.

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1 week later
#4611 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

The light socket under my 2 ball play area on my playfield is corroded so bad the light will barely come on. What is a good replacement for this light socket? I looked on http://www.marcospecialties.com but I was unsure of which one was the exact replacement option.

[quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe this?

1 month later
#4721 1 year ago
Quoted from woody24:

I'd do some reasearch before you get Pinsound. I want my game sounding 100% OEM. I'd get a pinsound board only if the current sounds were higher quality. There is someone out there who's made a pretty good sound mix for JP, but isn't 100% authentic to the sounds of the JP machine, so I haven't gotten the Pinsound board yet.
But if you don't care, the new mix does sound pretty good.

Why the mix is not authentic? Yes, it's not original, but original doesn't mean the best for me.
It's like factory Trex and winteriscoming's Trex. Day and night.

1 week later
#4763 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I cannot say that I have a better but that is not cool... Note that I'm not a fan of Neumann.

Neumann? He was a computer scientist.

1 week later
#4774 12 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Fellas: just picked up a JP that worked perfect at sellers.
When home, it basically went wonky. I did find a loose switch wire connected to T. rex.
Can someone provide a close up pic of the trex switches?
I am attaching a pic of the switch in question. Need to
Know which switch lug that purple and white wire attaches. Thanks !
[quoted image]

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#4786 12 months ago


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#4794 12 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Some kind of ball trough sensors to replace the micro-switches?

The ball trough design by Data East is not the most reliable mech in pinball. I have tried new microswitches, old Cherry switches, finetuned the angle - without stable result. I have also sanded the ball trough.

Then, I started to think about a non-contact based solution. There is a reason why Bally/Williams introduced opto boards, and the answer is not cost saving.
My goal was to create an opto board, without any modification of ball trough (no drilling): this means a transceiver and receiver in 1 board, 2 in 1. Therefore, the classic solution (infrared light interrupted by ball), doesn't work here.

No more waiting after ball drain, no more ball search due to clogging. I guess it works in GNR, Tommy, Last Action Hero, Tales from the Crypt, and WWFRR.
20181217_192646 (resized).jpgvideotogif_2018.12.18_22.25.08.gif

#4804 12 months ago

Thank you for nice feedbacks!

I've got some inquiries about this board.
I can create few more, if demand is there (not dozens, it is really time consuming to build one).
Please contact me via PM.
Note: 12V is required from backbox or from external supply (in case you have many mods, extra supply is recommended anyway).

1 week later
#4808 11 months ago

Here is an example of external power supply box:

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#4810 11 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Damn man, thats pretty dope! My external ps is like a laptop power supply. Wonder if I could open it and stuff its guts in a nicer looking case like that. Well done.

Thank you

#4813 11 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Ive been playing my game a lot lately. Pinsound seems like an inevitable upgrade. I have been watching videos on youtube and listened to a few different machines with a pinsound and the new sound orchestration. Does any one else think that the beginning intro music is way too quiet and underwhelming compared to the original? I like that its the REAL movie music, but it seems SO quiet. The "welcome to jurassic park" is super quiet too, it sounds like its a clip of the audio from when they enter the gate in the movie. Doesnt give me that "HERE WE GO" feeling. The music while you play is very quiet as well, doesnt get my blood pumping at all. Almost sounds like a lullaby, lol.
I dunno...I figure this is the next major mod for this game...just not sure its worth the money if I am not going to like it. I also dont have time or talent to do my own re-orchestration.
Opinions wanted.

You can adjust the volume of musics, voices, sfx and jingles by directory and also by single files (subdirectory). There is a gain.txt in almost every folder. If you want the music quieter, put a lower number. If you want it louder, but a bigger number.

But before any change, read this, by the author (he is talking about IJ mix):

#4823 11 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Having a weird issue w T. rex.
Passes start up diagnostics and in testing but sometimes during game play he won’t go bend down. I can hear the motor running though.
I ran coil test and notice that neither relays (the power on/off and the up/down) don’t fire. They are number #14 & #15 in coil test. Shouldn’t they click during diagnostics?
Anyone have any ideas? I checked for loose wires but nothing. Where are the relays for those two coil tests?

Bottom side of pf (zoom of HEP picture):

Screenshot_20190103-012521_Chrome (resized).jpg
#4825 11 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

If neither click during diagnostics, but sometimes work during the game, what’s this mean? How should I troubleshoot?

As a good start, check this, good inputs by winteriscoming.


#4835 11 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Hey All,
Has anyone else ever dreamt of a new playfield for JP?
I have for years and have even purchased a used playfield in hopes of having it scanned (for reference), then sanded down (scanned again for reference) and then reworking the full art package. Thought of using photoshop with 4K images pulled from the DVD and mixing these with some effects etc... The thought of approaching someone to rework the art digitally is even more appealing. Having this type of talent on it would be awesome!!
If anyone is interested and wants to discuss a way forward that would be great.

I've contacted him without success. My idea was to create a new translite based on that movie poster.

#4843 11 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

That table that I linked to is killer. Amazing talent!
I think that there are a few 'package installers' available that should help automate much of the config.You might have to create an account at one or more of the VP related sites to gain access however.
I love the JP theme and think that with all of the other mods, (Chris' new code, Jim's T-Rex, the colour display and pinsound and the cool add-ons), this can really use a complete art forklift. The original will always be the original but I've never liked the 'sharpie' like artwork. As a one off in a collection it's OK but I had LW3, SW, JP, LAH (might be missing another), all in my collection at one point. With all due respect to Markus Rothkranz, the styling is 'blah' for me.

I like cartoon/sharpie style, and don't like Photoshop overdosed designs based on photos.

#4862 11 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So to put yours back, you gotta reach in the back and lift the back end of the pf too?
Pain in the ass design.

It is. At the beginning, I have lifted the pf during pulling out process too. Then one day, my operator friend visited me, to check something in JP, he pulled the PF in split second with one hand. He did the opposite backwards. Apply very small amount of grease (very thin layer), it will help. He told me, not my idea

#4863 11 months ago

And they named it Easy Access Service System.
Here is the hint about lubrication.

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#4866 11 months ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

Never mind she just noticed its a 1 Year old story!! probably already been posted here Guy still has the game


#4897 11 months ago

It seems on the left side of middle bumper.

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#4915 11 months ago

What is the experience with EnerGI Maestro in Jurassic Park? Go or no-go?

#4920 11 months ago

Thanks for feedbacks, I am on the wait-list.

1 week later
#4961 10 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Get I'm getting that GI light fix. Got an invoice for it yesterday and paid for it. Now all I need is that new ball through from davi

I hear you
In progress, waiting for parts.
20190123_224030 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4998 10 months ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Stated the tear down and cleaning process. Waiting on a few new parts to come in as well.

Unique slingshot plastics?

#5003 10 months ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Those are just the standard orange sling plastics. I did order the blue ones though, I think they look better with all the other plastics.

Normally the orange version has also halftones; it seems yours has a pure orange background.

#5008 10 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I am considering side blades, but the ones I really like seem to come from overseas, abd the shipping is over $500. Im not paying that much in shipping. Does anyone know anywhere else I can get these or can get them vectored and printed?
[quoted image]

They don't want to ship to US. Don't know why.
You can register a German parcel forwarding (mailboxde.com), or someone in Europe (like me) can order it, then forward it to you.

#5022 10 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

I hear you
In progress, waiting for parts.
[quoted image]

Quick update about ball-trough opto board:
I had a chance to build a 2nd board. This will goes to USA. Better to test it in another pin. I don't expect any surprise.
Meanwhile, I have sourced all parts, except one, this is on the way. In order to save time, I have prepared few boards without this part, this means about 95% readiness for this batch.

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2 weeks later
#5254 9 months ago

Don't worry guys, the 1st 10 is ready. I just want to be 100% sure that the board is working flawlessly in other pin.
As Chitownpinball was the 1st, I've sent him a unit for test.
Let's wait for his feedback first, followed by shipments.

#5262 9 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

What did you land on for pricing? I'm interested.

Price is $70 plus shipping. I have 4 slots left from batch 2 (most probably the last batch).

1 week later
#5297 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I had everything laid out nicely before hand which I do not usually. That made it a lot quicker to get it done. It took less than an hour from start to power up.
I ended up snipping a zip tie before the trough wiring and de-soldering the coil with the grey and purple wiring you mentioned. Maybe I snapped a pic before I re-soldered. That helped to slacken up the wires for soldering. I was then able to lay a board on top of the coin box and solder through the coin door. You use 2 of the screws from the switches you remove to mount the board. I had 2 good ones luckily. The rest were stripped pretty bad. I have a 12v power supply already in my cab for mods, so I wired it to that.

I think this is the easiest method, with full access to ball trough:
1. Desolder wires, remove microswitches
2. Install backboard and opto board (2 screws)
3. Solder wires to opto board (diodes are not required)
4. Add 12V DC power
5. Done

DE_service (resized).JPG
#5315 9 months ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I thought that you have that new style switch from Davi?

He has a problem about switch above upkicker coil (number 4).
His 6-pack ball trough switch assembly is fine

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#5361 9 months ago

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****

Good news, 1st batch is ready. 2nd (last) batch is in progress, will be ready in 2 weeks. Only 10 boards, 3 slots left.
I am going to contact all of you about payment and shipping information.


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#5367 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

In summary to previous posts, whenever I make the loop through the pops, the ball comes out, hits the side rail (at no point does it even come close to touching the upper flipper) then it bounces in such a way that it center drains almost every time.
Images of ball exiting loop
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Images of where ball hits side rail
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Image of ball guide at exit
[quoted image]

Your metal guide is bent.

20190315_194617 (resized).jpg
#5375 9 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Nice nice. Pretty cool that a 25+ year old game is getting new technology.
So since it needs a 12v power source are there recommendations on where to draw from? I haven't done anything like that for any extra mods yet.

If you don't have a power supply, don't worry, not a big deal. 12V is available at PSU board, and also at Sound Board.

All you need is:
2x 6 pin Molex connector
1x 6 pin Z connector
22 AWG wire

Shopping list:
20190315_203227 (resized).jpgBall trough power supply (resized).JPG

1 week later
#5477 8 months ago
Quoted from Tablewicked:

You might not need to rebuild, check your EOS. Might just need a cleaning and adjustment. If you do rebuild, the coil should be fine, just get get right side rebuild if your other flippers feel fine.

No EOS at upper flipper.
Makes sense to check the fuse holders too on flipper board, originals are not so stable after many fuse replacement.

#5524 8 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Good news, 1st batch is ready. 2nd (last) batch is in progress, will be ready in 2 weeks. Only 10 boards, 3 slots left.
I am going to contact all of you about payment and shipping information.
[quoted image]

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.

I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:

I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.

#5533 8 months ago

Special request - power supply box

20190331_153425 (resized).jpg
#5544 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That looks great. What material are you using, and do you think it has enough ventilation? I've never bothered to touch the power supply installed in my cabinet to see what kind of heat it generates.

This is standard PLA. Recommended only for high efficiency switching power supplies, without fan. I have no experience about performance - more holes can be added later.

#5600 8 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Super impressed
My board arrived today, it even came in its own custom 3d printed travel case for safe shipping. Wow, what service.
A big thank you all, the way from Australia
[quoted image][quoted image]

I am glad you like it.
Thanks for feedback.

#5630 8 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Jurassic Park has been wigging out on me the past few days. Can turn on and start a game, but the game does not recognize a drained ball most of the time. When it drains, I often have to violently shake the machine to get it to register. The other symptom is, about half the time the machine will double feed the ball (never on the first ball though) after the first ball has drained, and start out as a 2 ball game... but draining the first ball never ends it.
When I open the switch test (these menus are awful) I get a ball in 1-6, and have verified 7 works when I press it.
This all started about 4 days ago after I lifted the playfield to try and fix the noisey shaker motor (which I did) so I'm guessing I bumped something. Photo of relevant area attached. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
When it works, I think I enjoy Jurassic Park more than the Hobbit worth twice as much next to it.
Thanks![quoted image]

My assumption: while you lifted the playfield, the harness is grabbed by the lockbar receiver, and pulled the wires. Left 3 switches are damaged.

20190408_214534 (resized).jpg
#5633 8 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Well, you can still smash that too, lol.

That's correct. I am going to design a protector, and will share the stl file for 3D printing.

#5687 8 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

**** Ball Trough Opto Board Update ****
Opto boards without harness are on they way!
Boards with harness: planned to send next week.
Thank you guys for your support and for nice feedback.
I've got no feedback from these guys to my shipping/payment PM:
I have purchased all the parts, and assembled the boards based on your commitment. I guess we are all adults and able to communicate and make decisions.

Opto boards with harness are on they way!
Status is: sold out (I kept 2 pieces in case of lost package/backup).
Special thanks to my wife, she helped a lot about component insertion, packaging and logistics

I am going to send tracking numbers and installation instruction until Monday.

#5723 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Received my ball trough opto board from Davi yesterday, and since I didn't have anything better to do today I decided to take on the installation project.
First, I needed to trace a wire that a previous owner had installed and was connected to one of the switches. It went all the way from the white wire lead on switch 2, up through the backbox, and was spliced into the color wire for the same switch there. Long story short, I removed the wire, tested continuity on the original wire, and everything was good. I have no idea why somebody would bypass a perfectly good wire. Onto the opt board . . .
1) First thing I did was to tin all of the leads on the opto board (very crucial to do this before you install)
2) I already had a 12V supply coming from alternate source, so I hooked a wire into it - positive and ground (I used the dual wire I recovered from the no longer needed switch bypass), and with playfield lifted ran the wire through the cable management on the underside of the playfield up to where it would reach the opto board
3) Turned on pin and put a meter on the end of the newly installed wire to test for 12V (I was good), then turned off pin and lowered playfield to where braces were resting on lock bar area (i.e. end of playfield was slightly elevated and extended beyond the cabinet)
4) Put pin in service mode and ejected all 6 balls then turn pinned off
5) De-soldered all wires from 6 trough switches
6) Removed both screws from all switches to remove them (set two aside to use for mounting opto board)
7) Mounted opto board using 2 screws taken from removed switches
8) Soldiered power wire to power pads on board (made sure neutral and positive were correct)
9) Turned power on to insure power was going to opto board (it was) and turned back off
10) Soldiered green/white pairs to appropriate station on the board
11) Turned on pin and manually tested optos, making slight adjustments where needed then turned off pin
12) Lowered playfield completely, powered on, and played a game
13) Success!

Wow, great summary, thank you!

#5724 8 months ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Davi's trough opto board survived the weekend at MGC. Not that I had any doubts, just want to help anyone who may doubt it's durability.

Good to hear, thanks for this test!

#5727 8 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I think that's when mine shipped or maybe the day before. Does your tracking number work on USPS? It's not showing as a valid number for them, and the Magyar Posta tracking site shows no activity since the 11th.
I'm not overly concerned about the shipping time. I'm mainly hoping it arrives before I head out of town if it requires a signature.

Don't worry, yours will show up this week.
Woody24's tracking number still at 'Handover for international transport' status - same as yours.
This tracking system is strange, and visible until the Hungarian border only, then God knows, what's going on after

#5766 7 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.
How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?
Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.[quoted image][quoted image]

Extend the hole with drill bit (of coarse smaller size than screw head) - or use a small router bit (or small drill bit, like the size of original hole), and create an oval shape.

As your trough is completely out, this is the perfect time to remove the dimples (if any) at ball parking positions.

#5768 7 months ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Cabinet Speaker - HELP NEEDED
Hi guys
Can someone please let me know which wire is the positive and which is negative
It looks like my speaker is the original factory speaker and I want to upgrade it.[quoted image]

Look for CN1 connector at Sound Board, check wire colors:

Screenshot_20190422-142313_Drive (resized).jpg
#5772 7 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I received my opto board from Davi today! It looks great. It will be a while before I get to install it. I look forward to ditching the flaky micro-switches.


Here is a quick installation guide, based on Mr. Tantrum's summary.

1) Tin all of the leads on the opto board (very crucial to do this before you install).
2) Put pin in service mode, eject all 6 balls then turn pin off.
3) De-solder all wires from 6 trough switches.
4) Remove both screws from all switches to remove them (set two aside to use for mounting opto board).
5) Mount opto board with backing in place (3D printed protector that came with the board) using 2 screws taken from removed switches (opto board mounting holes aligned with two of the existing threaded bracket holes). In case of offset between ball trough hole and board hole, increase the diameter of board hole (smaller than screw head).
6) Install your +12V DC power source. If the package contains opto board harness:
Unplug original CN2 female connector from sound board.
Plug original CN2 female to Z connector end on opto harness.
Switch on the pin. Make sure that nothing is connected to CN2 on sound board yet.
For double check, measure the voltage levels (12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V), and polarity at the end of harness (6 pin IDC or Molex) according to CN2 legend on sound board. The harness has polarity pin - this check is for 200% safety.
When everything is fine, power off. Plug opto harness to CN2 position on sound board.
7) Solder power wire to power pads on board (make sure neutral and positive are correct)
8) Turn power on to insure power is going to opto board (orange LED is on) and turn back off.
9) Solder green/white pairs to appropriate station on the board. You don't need to install diodes.
10) Turn on pin and manually test optos, making slight adjustments where needed then turn off pin.
11) Lower playfield completely, power on. Go to service menu, and check the operation: empty the ball trough few times. Carefully adjust optos, if required.
12) Success. Play a game!

#5782 7 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

davi -- thanks for the opt board and the instructions - question though regarding using this board with the CN2 hardness from the soundboard....
I've installed a Pinsound+, along with the pinsound Data East power booster Splitter -- should I be worried about adding an additional item to this power source? is there a particular order in which this additional harness should be installed? The power booster is currently installed between CN4 on the sound board and CN2 on the pinsound board.

You can't use the opto harness the way I've designed. The Date East power booster replaces the 12V to 18V to avoid sound cut, and use only 5V from original CN2 connector. So in your case, you need 18V and 5V for Pinsound, and 12V for opto board. After some research and drawings, here is my suggestion.

Power off.
1. Unplug 6 way power booster Molex from sound board.
2. Remove original CN2 IDC from power booster harness (Z connector end).
3. Plug original CN2 to opto board harness (Z connector end).
4. Plug 6 way opto board connector to power booster Z connector.
Power on.
4. Now you have to read following voltages:
DE power booster: 18V (blue), unused, unused, unused, ground (black), 5V (red). Make sure that red connector gets 5V, otherwise you can damage the soundboard!
Opto harness: 12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V.
If every value is OK, plug power booster back to Pinsound.

Maybe with drawing my explanation is more clear, and I hope there is 100% compatibility between connectors.

DE Power booster - opto.jpg
#5786 7 months ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Thank you Davi -- I don't currently have anything that will read the voltages from the connectors, so I will need to purchase something to triple check your numbers and then try it out.

Buy one with audible continuity function, this is very useful function to find shorts or check continuity.

#5805 7 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Some of it was shorting out at least. I think it had poked through the 3d printed backing. I unmounted it and let it hang in the air. Now they all work except for the 5th one. It's always on. I tried bending one of the leds, but didn't do anything. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Once I figure it out, I'll put some kapton tape on the back of it to prevent any shorting. It's close to working.

Please show a pic about back plastic. If you apply too much force, the leads at the back can damage this plastic, and can cause short circuit.
About 5th: before you do any change, put a non translucent piece of paper between transceiver (clear) and receiver (black) LED's. Green LED should turn off. In this case, adjust carefully LED's, bend the diodes away from each other slightly.
If the green LED stays on, most probably the board is damaged during short circuit load.

#5808 7 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Did a real quick test before I headed to work this morning. Stuck a piece of paper between the diodes and the light is still lit.
How do I go about checking to see what component(s) are bad?

For easier troubleshooting, please send high resolution pictures to my email (PM sent).
I am looking for:
Pictures about backboard and board (for example backboard, then below the opto board)
Some close up pictures up at faulty area

Do you see any sign of burn, deformation at the housing of transistor and black opto receiver?
I will come back later today with more info.

#5814 7 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Several hours later and I'm still messing with mounting this board to get it so every light is lit. In game, the shaker is rattling the mount loose since I don't have a drill to widen the hole and I broke one of the small screws off inside the hole where it mounts to. All because the mounting holes don't line up...

If the mounting holes don't line up...
Don't try to fix/mount the board, something will be damaged - in this case the screw.
If you can't (or don't want to) widen the hole, please send back the board to me, and I will give you a full refund.

#5825 7 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

It's possible there were just loose tolerances when the trough switch mounts were being drilled and threaded. If Davi designed it to fit his game precisely, it may be that others have games where the holes don't match his exactly.
Those having issues with the LEDs shorting against the metal might get away with cutting some card stock or cereal box cardboard to make a backer to help with that.

Yes, deviation can happen.
9,008 JP were made. Anyway, if there is small gap, a correction takes about 10 seconds with a 1$ drill.

#5829 7 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

Thanks to davi, my power supply is all nice and tidy now.
[quoted image]

I am glad you like it.

#5830 7 months ago
Quoted from BleacherBum:

Installed my opto board from Davi today. Works great! Thanks Davi!

One more opto board is up and running. Good to hear, thanks for feedback!

#5893 7 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Okay. I'm 99% certain that my current issue is the ball through. I stuck a strip of cardboard to the top of the ball through, and the lights go out. So how do I fix this issue now?
Would putting a "shield" around each LED help? So that it has an area of focus?
Or do I take the ball through out again, and try to matte it up?

It seems your ball trough upper part is very shiny. Can you add any decal to the lower surface (above the balls)?

2 weeks later
#6176 6 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

My internet has been down since yesterday so I’ve had a lot of time to work on my mods. I’ve got the T. rex stand all figured out. I made a custom insert with 4 red LEDs that replaces the T. rex light. It’s plug and play with the stock wiring. Just have to print the decals and I think I’m done!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job. It seems you have to switch off internet on a regular basis

#6177 6 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

The installation of my trough opto board went quickly and seems to be working well. The mounting holes aligned with the screw holes for me, so no modifications were needed. Thanks, @Davi!

Thanks - I am really happy to read this.

1 week later
#6244 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Hello everyone. Got some cool news (or at least I think its cool). lol
I am starting a YouTube channel that will be mostly dedicated to pinball restoration. Many of you have followed my restoration threads and I appreciate all the feedback. It's fun so I thought I would expand a little bit. I will still have my restore threads but I hope to add videos that compliment and show what and how I do things instead of just pictures.
Jurassic Park makes an appearance in one of my first videos as I show how to fix a Rottendog flipper board that I installed in my JP. Simple fix but it might help someone.
I have a few videos up and would appreciate any comments. Keep in mind that I am just starting this so I will get better. Please be gentle.

You are a pro! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

1 week later
#6307 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just took a closer look at the loose wire, the surrounding area, and the manual, and I'm still at a loss. Any additional help from anyone regarding how to wire the flasher given my situation is greatly appreciated.

20190610_213935 (resized).jpg20190610_213944 (resized).jpg20190610_213954 (resized).jpg20190610_214007 (resized).jpg20190610_214136 (resized).jpg
#6323 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Damnit, just broke the ramp right near the diverter. I was trying to rivet back in the plate which connects the wire ramp. I am guessing this is unobtainium, looks like I'm doing some plastic welding. Damnit, damnit, damnit.


#6355 6 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I would assume it is an incomplete circuit to the electronic flipper board...
Did you check for cold solder joints, reseat IDC wires to the connector...
Did you check for continuity of the solid state EOS contacts...
Did you check the continuity from the solid state flipper board IDC connector to the
flipper buttons/EOS switch/Flipper coil...
Did you check for bad fuse.

SSF check (resized).JPG
1 week later
#6465 5 months ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

I cannot find part numbers to plastics in my manual. Anyone know the part of this one located on the upper left of the play field?
Thanks[quoted image]


3 weeks later
#6652 5 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

You got some intel for us?

A rumour about new Stern pin: JP.

#6680 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Is jp stern confirmed? Sucks...no way we get a cool mech. Was hoping jjp at least.

Stern JP:
-2 very simple cheap ramps
-T-rex on a spring, they call it "toy"
-Photoshop playfield
-Everything at the back, nothing really to shot at lower playfield

#6692 4 months ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

It's been over 2 years and now I've decided to get JP up and running. I'm missing my pop bumpers wiring....can someone please share a few photos?[quoted image]


4 weeks later
#6820 3 months ago

Looking for measurement help. What is the X-Y size of airball protector at the green standup target?

19_G.sized (resized).jpg
#6826 3 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

x = 13mm
y = 35mm

Thank you!

#6832 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've actually thought of this, but I don't really think an FDM 3D printer will generate an acceptable model (not capable of many of the minute details pictured in the rendering), and for me the size would need to be much smaller to fit the game. I think the rendering is gorgeous (flashinstinct obviously has some design skills), but the end product will only be representative of that image. Still curious to see what he can come up with as this is a logical addition to both the classic and new JP's. Also, Mezel does a lot of great mods, but their version is just wrong (the movie one opens from the bottom - not the top). However, it is more representative of what a FDM 3D printer is capable of producing.

Plan is SLS process.

#6844 3 months ago

I've created a backlit box for the "When dinosaurs ruled the Earth" banner plastic.
Tomorrow I will test it, then will share the design for free.

20190820_211342 (resized).jpg
#6852 3 months ago
Quoted from koops:

That’s great! I wish there were more free designs. Being on the other side of the planet from most pinsiders is a real issue when shipping can be more than the item itself :/
How big was your printer?

Not big, 8x10 inch. Printed in 2 pieces.

#6853 3 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I printed something exactly like that. Worked great, you will like it.

The truth is that I have seen your thread about a year ago, and I knew I have to do something similar. The design is very limited, the shape of banner plastic and the side brackets will determine the look of the box.
Hopefully heat won't be an issue, the box is fully closed by the plastic.

#6864 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Davi, been trying to figure out your avatar forever, but still not sure. Looks like some sort of rectangular insert, but the big round hole/object above it is throwing me off. What is it . . . something Budapestian?

I have purchased about 500 inserts 2 years ago for many playfields. I have picked up one big insert (I think this is TZ big door insert), and moved it under the light of dining table, to show the fresh look to my friends. What you can see: a rectangle insert, 2 fingers, and the lamp.

#6875 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am a true believer and absolutely sold out for PinSound (see my guide thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound), so my opinions related to the product are quite strong, but also well substantiated. I've actually personally developed and shared with the community a dozen or so custom orchestration from my first pin - The Getaway.
With that being stated IF you want to change the overall experience of game play on many classic pins (i.e. better immersion, true stereo, actual themed callouts, custom music, and coming very soon - coordinated shaker events) there is nothing better than this product. What it delivers better than any other mod, IMO, is an immersive and interactive experience far greater than the original pin ever did.
Obviously, there is a price to this that not everyone wants to spend or can afford. However, if you are going to mod a machine, PinSound should be seriously considered. There may be other DIY solutions, and if that is your thing then by all means I encourage you to pursue it. However, if you want a proven professionally developed and supported product, then PinSound is the way to go. Fortunately, this is the case in the pinball world with a variety of other products (e.g. PinStadium Lighting, ColorDMD, etc.), so everyone can spend and invest whatever time they wish to achieve similar outcomes.

I agree - about Pinsound 1. Pinsound Plus (2nd version) is a big disappointment, due to lack of volume separation between cabinet and backbox speakers. I am going to swap my Pinsound Plus board to Pinsound 1.
I have no nostalgic connection to JP original "music" (never played in my childhood), so I am not biased - and after a test of Pinsound/JP mix, I have zero intention to switch back to original.

#6881 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I'm torn on the pinsound. My concern is the JP theme playing over and over again. I think that's too much for me / makes it less special but it does sound good. Thanks for taking the video

That's right. However for guests, birthday parties that's a good choice. Then you can switch back for any other version.

#6882 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You ask, I deliver. I even almost made it to shut-down mode. Forgot to take the glass off, but shouldn't be too big of a bother. Enjoy.

You will like GI control board.
And your "H" insert acts as mine in attract mode: from right to left sweep doesn't lit

#6888 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Are you ready to share the STL file yet?

Yes - you are the beta tester

#6902 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Printing as two pieces with the flush joint support was perfect. I use Testers Plastic Cement which works much better for me that Superglue on PLA (it also stays clear and doesn't leave a white haze).
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking good, thanks for your time. How about quick install? I hope it fits without any clearance issue.

#6905 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

I think I'm going to add a post to my left outlane. It's brutal right now. Anyone have the part/ link for that?


1 week later
#6944 3 months ago

My JP has no carton paper protector over the flipper board.
I have a custom one
20190831_190745 (resized).jpg20190831_221246 (resized).jpg

#6948 3 months ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Love it! Will be in Budapest Monday- Wednesday for the first time - anywhere to get in a few games near the Hilton Budapest? Went to the Krakow Pinball Museum today and left disappointed...

Visit Pinball Museum in Budapest. About 130 pinballs, many video games.
Closed on Monday and Tuesday.

140317-CER_0013s (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#7016 89 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has your T-Rex had to resort to slurping goat soup instead of shredding lamb chops because it has no teeth? Has it lost its fear factor as the top predictor since all it can do is gum things to death? Despair no more, as I have an answer for you. These full T-Rex implants will bring your little pet's intimidation factor back, and fulfill its lust for raw meat!
These teeth are 3D printed and have depth to them (flat on inside, rounded on outside). The lowers install via lining the inside of the metal lower jaw (uses gray mounting tape), the uppers install on the outside of the upper metal jaw (uses thin adhesive tape), and the fronts glue onto the two metal front teeth (uses Super Glue gel).
Price for the full set of teeth ready to install (all 3 pieces with tape pre-applied to uppers & lowers) is $30 (includes US shipping), and for an additional $2 I will include a tube of Super Glue Gel if needed. As always, I will ship outside of US, but will need to quote shipping based upon destination. As always, please PM me if interested in purchasing, and I've added a link to this post on my JP Mod page (http://thezumwaltfamily.com/jppinball).
Installation Process is as follows:
1) Turn on pin and await the T-Rex test. When T-Rex is in lowered position, turn off pin. With head down, the Philips screw that secures the head/back neck piece is exposed. Remove the screw and lift the plastic piece off the metal skeleton (you will actually slide the piece forward towards the lockbar when in this position).
[quoted image]
2) Turn on pin and await the T-Rex test. When T-Rex returns to the upper position, turn off pin. Install the lower teeth first. Test fit to practice positioning before removing the adhesive backing. When ready, remove the adhesive backing. Squeeze the back of the teeth together slightly and position the front of the teeth firmly against the inside lower front metal teeth. Ensure the teeth are sitting flat on the bottom of the mouth and pull outward to secure the front of the teeth. Then use your finger to firmly adhere the rest of the teeth around the contour of the lower metal gums. The lower teeth should be snug up against the metal gums around the full perimeter while also being seated firmly against the bottom of the mouth. If installed correctly, the ends of both sides of the teeth will be just short of where the lower and upper jaw meet.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
3) Remove the protective backing from the 3 pieces of adhesive on the underside of the upper teeth. Be very careful when handling this piece, as squeezing it too hard or flexing it will break it. If it breaks, you will need to purchase a replacement (you've been warned). Align the upper teeth so that the front edge aligns with the front edge of the metal gums. Make sure the piece fits firmly snug on the top and along left and right gums. Firmly press all surfaces where adhesive tape is into place.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
4) Carefully test fit the plastic head piece over the teeth. Again, don't force it as it could break the upper teeth. If the head will not comfortably slide into place then you will need to modify the upper snout of the T-Rex plastic. The way I did this was with a heat gun. Carefully heating the inside of the snout on one side in the areas where my fingers are holding the plastic, after 15-20 second it became soft enough to adjust. Using my fingers, I pulled out about 1-2mm, let it cool so that it was no longer malleable, and then repeated the process with the other side. Once I did this, the head more easily slid into position. Be careful, and you may need to push up a little on the two large front teeth to keep them in position as you install the head.
[quoted image]
5) Turn on pin and await the T-Rex test. When T-Rex is in lowered position, turn off pin. With head down, the hole for the screw that secures the head/back neck piece is exposed. Insert screw into hole and tighten fully.
[quoted image]
6) Turn on pin and await the T-Rex test. When T-Rex returns to the upper position, turn off pin. Test fit the position of the upper front teeth. When ready, apply a few small drops of Super Glue Gel on either back of plastic front teeth or along top of exposed front metal teeth. Place the teeth in place ensuring they are centered, and hold firmly in place for at least one minute (when you let go, the teeth should stay in place and not move or lift from the metal teeth)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
7) Wait 10-15 minutes to ensure glue is fully dry, and now you are ready to play with your new tooth-endowed T-Rex!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looking good! Suggestion: instead of pure white, can't you print it in a bone color/light brown (also the inner part, instead of black)?

1 week later
#7040 78 days ago
Quoted from Nachopark:

Hi all -
I seem to be missing this metal mini-post near my left gutter on the playfield - does anyone know the part number for this? I think I found it on Marco specialties but i'm not sure if this is the right piece - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5004-01, was just hoping for an easy confirm. Unfortunately this piece isn't "posted" in the manual
I'm pretty sure these are all supposed to have 3/16" rubber rings on them too, right? Mine seem to be missing.
[quoted image]

Search for outlane


1 week later
#7058 71 days ago
Quoted from NYP:

Desperate for some help, in the middle of a JP restore and I have no idea where these 2 wires go. If you look at the picture, I'm holding the 2 wires with my thumb, they come off a little tap screwed right about smack dab in the middle of the playfield. One wire is solid white and the other is white with a green stripe. Hoping a fellow JP owner can have a look and LMK where these go? TIA
[quoted image]

My vote:

20191005_232024 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#7114 40 days ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Ah, totally understandable - I just didnt like the look of the teeth on that OEM sticker.

Takes about 2 minutes to remove them in Windows Paint, easy task.

1 week later
#7135 30 days ago

Hello Guys, interest check about next batch of ball trough opto board:

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