What are the original colors of the scoop lights? My bunker has green on top blue on the bottom but control room and power shed are green on top yellow on the bottom, is this right?

Thanks, I'm torn can't decide if I want to keep it blue or just make it match the others.

How much for just the acrylic?

Just did the do-it-yourself version of the mod. Really appreciate Rock914 posting all the pics and details that made it possible. One additional thing I did was extend the backing up by a couple inches and ran another row of LEDs to light the Dinosaur sign. image.jpg

I've contacted ColorDMD about it and they just got back to me. I haven't started yet but will update this thread if I do actual get started on it.

Maybe we can do a little divide and conquer on this as I have volunteered as well.

In no way a challenge but I'm happy with goat and insert light

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It is tied in to that circuit, I put a red LED in but the insert is yellow and it looks weird so I just went with a warm white LED.

I used that grey double sided tape with the red wrap. It sticks like crazy, but if you do want it off, a couple seconds with a blow dryer and it just lets go. If you look close you can see it just under the feet. The trees where attached with hot glue when I got the table but they started falling off so I redid them with the same tape and they seem solid now.

P.S. The goat lights up kinda cool with the pops in that spot too.

Look at my post about a month back

You don't need a blinking LED the circuit blinks already. I just tied it into the red LED on top of the box and it flashes.

I think it lights when the mode is on then flashes as soon as the ball lands there, I cant remember exactly I'll have to check when I get home, but it does whatever the red light does.

I put a red LED in mine but didn't like the way it looked so I just went with a nice bright warm white.

Yes that's correct but it looks terrible stock. I pulled mine off painted the outside black and used a chrome paint on the other side.

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It's hard to see but that was kinda the point. I thought it was an eye sore just unfinished metal. With the metallic chrome paint on the back it's more reflective. I put red orange and yellow LEDs and it actually matches the sunset really well but it's hard to see in the pic.

I turned buy in on in mine, I like to see all the features and system shut down is cool. If I get a high score on a buy in I will put in different initials because I only like my scores to count for the standard 3 ball mode.

New roms arrived today and I love the changes great job Chad. Highly recommended to any that has the pin.

I have Titans on mine orange rings with the orange slings, I could never go back to black.
Not a great pic as they look red and not the vibrant orange they actually are, but you get the idea.

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I didn't go 100% I did the post sleeves across the top, I did the flippers in red, orange for the slings, star posts for the slings. I considered doing all the star post and rings in blue blue but wasn't sure the blue would match plastic. So I went with white rings and kept clear posts.

Its just a bent piece of sheet metal, mine had a little surface rust so i painted it up. Just make one, or any furnace place could make you a better one than the original in 5 minutes.

Where did you find them please post a link, what voltage are they?

Yeah I searched you tube and he has several videos and he has responded and people have offered to buy. Maybe we can get in contact with him and see if he would sell a group of them. Seeing your country probable you the best guy to communicate with him.

In this video he responded yesterday, and I google translates and it sounds like he just doesn't have the time.

Mine is exactly like this it annoys me because it looks unfinished, I don't hear the rattle though.

I need to try a brighter red LED in the T-Rex saucer, with the yellow insert when I used a red LED it just looked this gross orange. Yours looks great, did you change the insert? On the top of mine I put Red, Orange and Yellow across the top in that order with the topper it matches the sunset perfectly.

The best thing to light up the back is the mod to light up the image at the back. It looks very natural and helps with the glare. I also put a DMD Filter on mine and only put a couple LEDs in the backglass.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/10#post-2361460

Rock914 is the creator if you search for posts by him you should find it.

1200-1500 would be a great deal. I would not expect that price if you can get that jump on it.

Did it have battery damage or some other problem? Where the flippers bagged and plastic broken? Was there lots of wear On the playfield outside the usual places you can cover with cliffys. Was the cabinet really bad? 1500 is a good deal for JP that needs a little love.

Ok that sounds fair then.

Looks awesome!

Can you show exactly what you did, maybe a tutorial?

I have nothing against Flipper Fidelity or their products but I personally find there are a lot of good, quality lower cost speakers available. I thought over making a purchase from Flipper Fidelity as my PotO needed new speakers I ended up just grabbing a set of car audio speakers and they were a huge upgrade at significantly less price.

My PotO the speakers were 4x10 or some other such weird size. I found a set online, sure they are chinese manufactured but they claimed to have lots of power and are a modern speaker, compared to the foam rotted ones that where in it they sound amazing. Just the change in tech from the 20 year old original speakers is a huge upgrade. The speakers in it where your standard one sound speaker the new ones are at least 3ways. I have a polk audio sub as well. Just a straight swap is all I did.

Did that one from the show sell? It was in rough shape with some very strange issues on the playfield. Seemed over priced at least for what people on here say they are worth.

Yeah, I love mine. I just noticed that the little tower with the spot and lamp for the T-rex was actually mounted across the entrance to the bumpers. I didn't see anything wrong that it couldn't be turned back into a beauty. I was just a little surprised by the price, pleasantly surprised if it sold

I used yellow LEDs in the lamp towers and even the naked frosted bulbs are a disappointment. They are way to weak, warm whites are the way to go for the yellow inserts. I wish one of the LED shops had warm white LED with a frosted yellow dome. If anyone knows of a good frosted yellow 555 please post.

I have the standard Polk Sub that you see posted here. It is awesome on JP, feed T-rex pounds. I put one on my JP and it was so awesome I put subs on all my pins. I only have 3 pins and just hit Craigslist, lots of cheap good subs available.

I would just like to say the new code is awesome. I know people here hate the carugment but the new code basically changes a barn find classic car that still has a little life let in her to a fully restored hotrod. Same car but damn she is sweet ride again.

This would be great, I'm software engineer myself and offered to colorize JP probably over a year ago. Was told they already had too many active projects. I hope he has better luck.

They could already have someone working on it. There could be many reasons why not, I'm not trying to say anything negative about ColorDMD. I considered going the RGB DMD route and inquired about it but there seems to be multiple approaches and issues with the patent. Also not sure what hardware to buy or who from. My offer still stands today with anyone that is doing colorization I'll buy the hardware and will be happy to help out with software or colorization on JP.

I like the blinkers, mine didn't have them when I got it but I put them back in. It feels more like the times, like the opening of a big movie with roving spotlights lighting up a marquee. Its just not Jurassic Park without them.

P.S. I used incandescents in my backbox, with one exception of a single LED right at the sun.

Any one with an set of blue slings you want to part with let me know. Lots of people probably replacing plastics these days

Where did you go for that quote? I took my JP parts to a place that mainly did stair and patio railings. It is just standard gloss black so they just threw them in with a run. I don't remember exactly what I paid I just remember thinking, "that's it?" and handing them over. If you not doing a specific color I would look for some place more industrial.

I think I put one LED in my back box for the sun. Everything else just stuck with incandescents looks great and keeps the glare down.

It's on a drain that bounces back out into play, isn't it?

I have both the LED and the LCD and I think it really comes down to personal preference. The LED fits much better in JP and is a slightly easier install. The LED is a bit brighter and the LCD a little softer and has the added modes. I only use dots anyway so the modes dont mean much to me.

I do not think this is true, I would have Randy confirm.

I think that is just the installation instructions. I don't think they have instructions because you have to permantetly mode a little to make the LCD fit in a DE. I am pretty sure the it runs on LCD. If you like LCD I would confirm with Randy and not just order the LED.

I sent my wife to get mine for me. I dunno why but it always works. When they ask her what are you bringing back and she says I don't really know its some part for my husband silly pinball machine. They just chuckle and wave her through. If I go pick up, I get lots of questions, what do I do for a living, why can I not get parts in Canada is this for commercial use...

I think he means the hats not the actual flag.

I have buy in, match and free play on 6.0 no problems.

The strategy of draining is hardly new, the whole 6 ball thing is chaos, literally. If your super strategic about shots and scoring the JP wizard mode is not for you.

My point was draining works and everyone knows it works and yes it is one of the easiest wizard modes ever, everyone knows that. If you're hoping that you are wrong, sorry to be Captain obvious and let you know you're right. It's a fun over the top wizard mode exactly like the summer blockbuster movie. There is no strategy to it and its still awesome.

ChadH 6.0 code is the bomb, you are lowering value if your not running it. I don't think it was any kind of shots fired just an honest question.

I used that play dough like wood filler on mine. Obviously no color match but once they were all cleaned up a cliffy hides it nicely.

Mine has trees so I went with green posts to match.

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Unfortunately the trees and Raptor were on it when I bought the machine. I added the back panel and scoop lighting, white ball and the rubber.

You can see it's orange in the first pic. The flash on my phone seems to have made it look way more yellow than it actually is.

The lit back panel, or are we considering that the When Dinosaurs...mod?

I like the idea of a sign that spins for a second you hit the target. I think it should be static most of the time. I also wonder about the cost increase to have it spin.

This sounds great. I don't know if mods are your business and I fault no man for making money. My favorite mods are the ones that sell you the specific parts and tell you how to do the common stuff. IE. You sell the sign and create a guide of where to buy the additional parts and how hook it up. Or maybe sell both options the basic DIY mod and the premium plug and play version.

I have an LED in my JP and I have never noticed any ghosting. As to the LCD vs LED debate, I have an LCD in my AC/DC and have never used the additional modes. The only way I could recommend LCD is if you an incandescent guy and want a softer display. If you have LEDs in your machine go LED display, if in doubt go LED, the hassle free install is a perk too.

Like I said I have never used the additional LCD modes so my recommendation is they are not worth it, especially considering the additional hassle of the install on JP.

Mine had the pilot hole and the left was a drain monster, I'm so brainwashed I still hardly nudge machines so I put the post in.

A pinsider sold me mine for pretty cheap its not a ceramic ball. You can buy 4 packs of colored balls, I wish I could remember who was selling them, he had broken up a few packs to sell individual, I think it was less that $20. In that ball park anyway.

Found it http://shop.modmypin.com/ $48 for 4 balls. Maybe you can find 3 other people.

LED and LCD is available for all games. ColorDMD just doesn't provide installation instructions for games that you would have to mod too install. If you can get the LCD in the pin the ROM is available.

I think I have that piece you broke. I replaced mine when I modded the back board with LEDs. I think I still that the original wood somewhere and I'm not using it. You a long way for a piece of wood but I'll take a look if you want it.

Its in this thread a few years back.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/7#post-2198763

Mine has the orange slings so I did warm under them and cool under blue. LED Flashers are super bright I replaced the clear domes with blue it helps a lot. I would stay away from the kits just count them up yourself and get a few extra. I recently bought bulbs from Pinball Life and was blown away. I think I avoided his bulbs because his prices were so low and I assumed more expensive bulbs would be better. Man was I wrong his bulbs are top quality, very bright and consistent don't get fooled into paying more.

Just stick with incandescent flashers or replace the domes. I prefer my blue domes over the clear just wish you could get them with the round tops. I could only find the standard flat top domes. Kinda silly to call them domes

Damn for real, I replaced mine with blue domes to tone down the flash. Didn't know they were worth their weight in gold.

Wow that is some of the worst clown puke I have ever scene. I have one LED in the backbox of my JP, a single white in the sun. The JP translight hot spots like crazy. Do the pinstadiums reflect that badly off the ramp to the naked eye?

It looks good, I don't have the plastic cover on mine on the right side. I tend to take that stuff off at home, I'm not very competitive with pinball so I prefer the clean look even if I get the odd ball stuck. I have the trough lit on mine and its not connect to the GI or Flashers, these DE are so flashy you need a little constant lighting to even them out. I think I'll have to give the home version a try, where did you get the angle brackets?

PM Sent on the Trex

Be careful with the back box on JP. I had LEDs in mine and found i got really bad glare and hot spots. I ended up pulling most of them back out and only using a couple. I think I put one behind the sun and using a couple of red and yellow. The majority just look much better with incandescent and it really cuts down the glare. I also use incandescent blinkers in the bottom row.

Man if the border and international shipping wasn't such a pain in the ass these days I would be all over this. I miss the days when they just waved your though to hit the post office.

What is the deal with art on cards in a vertical orientation? I have seen a few sets lately and it crushes my brain, it makes no sense.

Interesting trade I have both machine and I actually play my Phantom more. Jurassic Park is worth significantly more so I would do the trade. JP is deeper for sure, it's a DMD with lots of modes. Phantom is way shallower but it just has that draw to it, that one more game feeling.

I did mine it was really easy, LED strip and a small piece of clear plastic you can get from a hardware store is all you need. There should be lots of information on here on how to do it. One thing I would improve is some type of diffuser on the LEDs.

Post 452 you actually quoted it and I thanked you in it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/10#post-2361460

Yeah and for the price you asking it has to be one of the best mods out there. I did it from scratch just followed how you did it. I bought a piece of acrylic from home depot. Its thin and the LED are a little close so I get minor hot spots.

Yeah I used these in mine, I have the orange slings, so I used orange posts and rubber. They look great and no issue with them.

There is a picture in this post. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/24#post-2758271

I always take all the clear plastic to prevent the ball getting stuck off all my games at home. I understand why games have them on route but at home they are just ugly. I also replaced the clear domes over the flashers to blue on my JP, just to take a little off how flashy it is.

I can't remember every having a ball get stuck so I don't see the point. Even if it did get stuck I have thumb lock on all my games so its like 5 seconds to get it unstuck. To me its just clutter that serves no purpose at home, I keep the plastic if I sell and the next owner wants them. What is the issue with removing them, have I angered the pinball purist?

Well considering its never actually happened and I'm not in a league or play in any way competitively. I don't take pinball that seriously, if you do I understand why you would want to keep them on. You were just real quick with the thumbs down and face palm emoji, it doesn't really fit with the whole "to each their own". I thought I broke some pinball commandment.

Incandescent flashers are seizure inducing on JP, LEDs are nuts. I put the blue domes over incandescent flashers and its way better. I don't mind colored LEDs flashers but the pure white ones are pretty brutal.

I think Mezel Mods sells singles of the Glo Balls for $15. The white looks great, it does not actually glow in the dark or tint green.

DMD Glare eliminator is a miracle worker on JP. If you have any LED's in the back box take them out. I have lighted the back of the playfield it helps brighten things up. I also have added a couple spotlights one on the left sling to light the middle of the playfield and one by the third flipper to light up that area. I find if you light things up well under the glass it helps cut down the outside lights reflected off it.

I replaced the clear domes in my JP with blue, they look better on the blue plastics and they take a lot of the flashers. Domes are cheap probably less than an LED flasher, if you getting blinded give it a shot. As far as LED lighting in the GI I try and match warmth. I use warms under reds and orange plastic or artwork and cool under blues. I do like to color match inserts but that is personal preference and it does mean you have to pay more attention when your order LEDs. The backbox in JP I put one white LED in the sun everything else I left incandescent as you get lots of hot spots and glare on the playfield the more you light up the backbox. I did color match the back box across the top with red and orange or yellow so the topper lights up just like the sunset.

I think its an awesome idea. I agree its a little bulky, I also have my goat in that same spot so I like the idea of it following the ramp like posted above. It's kinda tricky I like that you have it close to the pops for Electric Fence mode. Maybe a way to incorporate both.

ColorDMD can’t effect what is out put to the DMD it can only colour it. The worst that can happen is a frame is not identified and it will just show in the default colour. It could not cause a scene to not show. It is possible in sprite mode that it could get lost or stuck in the wrong palette but again the images would still output they would just be very oddly coloured.

I have the other two as well but I dunno about the new one. I know its early and we haven't seen much but visually it feels like a pin for a low budget Saturday morning cartoon. It doesn't capture the movie at all. The original Data East playfield is pretty terrible art wise but the pin really captures the movie. The sound the dots, the black cabinet just like the poster, it is great integration of the film and theme.

ColorDMD works perfectly with 6.0 and it looks awesome you won’t regret it.

It was my first pin and I loved it. You also get a lot of bang for your buck. On location you probably don't have 6.0 code and it is the final polish the title needs. If you want to spend double or triple by all means Medieval Madness is the better game. In the home environment you should have no trouble setting it up a JP so its enjoyable and plays well. Tri-ball and Chaos are pretty easy to achieve with smart missile so set up properly you should get them in more games than you don't.

I'm a content tourist and keep my JP with continue enabled. Every few months I'll try and do it on as few games as possible, I don't know if I have ever done it on a single three ball game.

Yeah for me the pure experience was the arcade experience and anything that had the insert coin to continue it was always enabled. I think every game with a wizard mode should have continue.

Check the bungie cord it hangs loose and the hook could be rattling off something. There is a picture of it a couple pages back. Thats the only thing I can think of.

Mine has a three slot coin door so seems typical on this pin in Canada.

Sadly I left the club and sold my JP. It was my first pin just felt it was time to shake things up. The last game I played on it just before it was picked up I blew it up and cracked a billion, best game I ever had on it.