(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 5 minutes ago by JohnJN
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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


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#427 4 years ago

What are the original colors of the scoop lights? My bunker has green on top blue on the bottom but control room and power shed are green on top yellow on the bottom, is this right?

#430 4 years ago
Quoted from DoubleDanger:

That's how they are on mine and most all of the other ones I've seen, including the pics on ipdb - pretty sure that's even how they are on the flyer photo. However, the manual doesn't specify, so I can't say with 100% certainty.

Thanks, I'm torn can't decide if I want to keep it blue or just make it match the others.

#446 4 years ago

How much for just the acrylic?

1 week later
#452 4 years ago

Just did the do-it-yourself version of the mod. Really appreciate Rock914 posting all the pics and details that made it possible. One additional thing I did was extend the backing up by a couple inches and ran another row of LEDs to light the Dinosaur sign. image.jpg

#461 4 years ago

I've contacted ColorDMD about it and they just got back to me. I haven't started yet but will update this thread if I do actual get started on it.

#465 4 years ago
Quoted from TxJay:

I sent them an email volunteering my services. They replied and actually have interest. They will get back to me when they are ready to proceed. This was last Friday. Crossing fingers!!

Maybe we can do a little divide and conquer on this as I have volunteered as well.

4 weeks later
#515 4 years ago

In no way a challenge but I'm happy with goat and insert light

image.jpg
#517 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

You should make the light red and tie it to the red feed Trex light.

It is tied in to that circuit, I put a red LED in but the insert is yellow and it looks weird so I just went with a warm white LED.

#519 4 years ago

I used that grey double sided tape with the red wrap. It sticks like crazy, but if you do want it off, a couple seconds with a blow dryer and it just lets go. If you look close you can see it just under the feet. The trees where attached with hot glue when I got the table but they started falling off so I redid them with the same tape and they seem solid now.

P.S. The goat lights up kinda cool with the pops in that spot too.

1 month later
#563 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Not sure, sorry.
Any one ever consider taking the "shoot the trex when lit" light and moving its connection down to under the trex saucer and then putting a flashing led in the socket? Then the socket would flash when you are supposed to shoot the trex, right?
Was thinking about this so I could put the die cast jeep in the light/box's spot. I havent gotten it yet, but I am considering this. Any objections?

Look at my post about a month back

#566 4 years ago

You don't need a blinking LED the circuit blinks already. I just tied it into the red LED on top of the box and it flashes.

#568 4 years ago

I think it lights when the mode is on then flashes as soon as the ball lands there, I cant remember exactly I'll have to check when I get home, but it does whatever the red light does.

#571 4 years ago

I put a red LED in mine but didn't like the way it looked so I just went with a nice bright warm white.

#591 4 years ago

Yes that's correct but it looks terrible stock. I pulled mine off painted the outside black and used a chrome paint on the other side.

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from Daniml:

I'd like to see picks of that!

image.jpgimage.jpg

It's hard to see but that was kinda the point. I thought it was an eye sore just unfinished metal. With the metallic chrome paint on the back it's more reflective. I put red orange and yellow LEDs and it actually matches the sunset really well but it's hard to see in the pic.

4 weeks later
#786 4 years ago

I turned buy in on in mine, I like to see all the features and system shut down is cool. If I get a high score on a buy in I will put in different initials because I only like my scores to count for the standard 3 ball mode.

2 months later
#1172 4 years ago

New roms arrived today and I love the changes great job Chad. Highly recommended to any that has the pin.

1 week later
#1198 4 years ago

I have Titans on mine orange rings with the orange slings, I could never go back to black.
Not a great pic as they look red and not the vibrant orange they actually are, but you get the idea.

396434.jpg

#1206 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Those Titans sure look great! How far did you go? 100%, including post sleeves and flippers?
I'm curious...

I didn't go 100% I did the post sleeves across the top, I did the flippers in red, orange for the slings, star posts for the slings. I considered doing all the star post and rings in blue blue but wasn't sure the blue would match plastic. So I went with white rings and kept clear posts.

1 week later
#1296 4 years ago
Quoted from bkfiv:

Anyone know where I can get the reflector for the topper? I have the original topper, but just lights in front of it. Are these anything special or should I just build one?

Its just a bent piece of sheet metal, mine had a little surface rust so i painted it up. Just make one, or any furnace place could make you a better one than the original in 5 minutes.

#1340 4 years ago
Quoted from NFK:

BTW found this and thought it would be great mod if this is on the "Shoot T-Rex when lite" sign next to the T-Rex:
» YouTube video

Where did you find them please post a link, what voltage are they?

#1345 4 years ago

Yeah I searched you tube and he has several videos and he has responded and people have offered to buy. Maybe we can get in contact with him and see if he would sell a group of them. Seeing your country probable you the best guy to communicate with him.

In this video he responded yesterday, and I google translates and it sounds like he just doesn't have the time.

2 weeks later
#1461 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Just played a few rounds on JP with the glass off. I noticed an annoying rattle when the shaker motor was rumbling. I located at the point where the wire ramp sits on a supporting metal hex post.
This seems an odd mode of support which I have not seen on a few of other's playfield photos I've looked at. Maybe was present on one photo, but not very clear.
11-20-2015 11-17-56 AM.png
Is this the intended support installation? Maybe I'll add a nylon panhead screw atop there to add some padding and dampen the rattling. Or, I'll deform the ramp ever so slightly to force a more positive contact with the support.
Suggestions?

Mine is exactly like this it annoys me because it looks unfinished, I don't hear the rattle though.

#1499 4 years ago

I need to try a brighter red LED in the T-Rex saucer, with the yellow insert when I used a red LED it just looked this gross orange. Yours looks great, did you change the insert? On the top of mine I put Red, Orange and Yellow across the top in that order with the topper it matches the sunset perfectly.

3 weeks later
#1567 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - what are you using to light up the GI in the back two corners? I've tried a few bulbs, some better than others although still would like it brighter/try to cut down on glare from the giant backglass. Any suggestions on what type of bulb works best?

The best thing to light up the back is the mod to light up the image at the back. It looks very natural and helps with the glare. I also put a DMD Filter on mine and only put a couple LEDs in the backglass.

#1569 4 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/10#post-2361460

Rock914 is the creator if you search for posts by him you should find it.

1 week later
#1582 4 years ago

1200-1500 would be a great deal. I would not expect that price if you can get that jump on it.

#1588 4 years ago

Did it have battery damage or some other problem? Where the flippers bagged and plastic broken? Was there lots of wear On the playfield outside the usual places you can cover with cliffys. Was the cabinet really bad? 1500 is a good deal for JP that needs a little love.

#1591 4 years ago

Ok that sounds fair then.

1 month later
#1715 3 years ago

Looks awesome!

4 weeks later
#1951 3 years ago

Can you show exactly what you did, maybe a tutorial?

2 weeks later
#2031 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Seriously considering upgrading to Flipper Fidelity speakers. I have a Polk subwoofer which helped a lot. I know there's been discussion before about if it's worth upgrading, but wasnt ready to drop another $150 in it. Now I kinda am. But wold hate it if I didn't notice any difference with it.
Yay or nay?

I have nothing against Flipper Fidelity or their products but I personally find there are a lot of good, quality lower cost speakers available. I thought over making a purchase from Flipper Fidelity as my PotO needed new speakers I ended up just grabbing a set of car audio speakers and they were a huge upgrade at significantly less price.

#2034 3 years ago

My PotO the speakers were 4x10 or some other such weird size. I found a set online, sure they are chinese manufactured but they claimed to have lots of power and are a modern speaker, compared to the foam rotted ones that where in it they sound amazing. Just the change in tech from the 20 year old original speakers is a huge upgrade. The speakers in it where your standard one sound speaker the new ones are at least 3ways. I have a polk audio sub as well. Just a straight swap is all I did.

2 months later
#2320 3 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Look in the coin door to see if the head key is hanging on a hook there. Or look in the coin box. If this is the game that was at the show, I think the T. Rex had a problem picking up the ball too. I reported it to the medics, but I'm not sure they were able to solve it.

Did that one from the show sell? It was in rough shape with some very strange issues on the playfield. Seemed over priced at least for what people on here say they are worth.

#2322 3 years ago

Yeah, I love mine. I just noticed that the little tower with the spot and lamp for the T-rex was actually mounted across the entrance to the bumpers. I didn't see anything wrong that it couldn't be turned back into a beauty. I was just a little surprised by the price, pleasantly surprised if it sold

#2331 3 years ago

I used yellow LEDs in the lamp towers and even the naked frosted bulbs are a disappointment. They are way to weak, warm whites are the way to go for the yellow inserts. I wish one of the LED shops had warm white LED with a frosted yellow dome. If anyone knows of a good frosted yellow 555 please post.

2 months later
#2508 3 years ago

I have the standard Polk Sub that you see posted here. It is awesome on JP, feed T-rex pounds. I put one on my JP and it was so awesome I put subs on all my pins. I only have 3 pins and just hit Craigslist, lots of cheap good subs available.

2 months later
#2766 3 years ago

I would just like to say the new code is awesome. I know people here hate the carugment but the new code basically changes a barn find classic car that still has a little life let in her to a fully restored hotrod. Same car but damn she is sweet ride again.

2 weeks later
#2814 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Going back to this post, so the data(? probably the wrong term for it) required for a hobbyist to attempt a ColorDMD conversion of JP are only possessed by the ColorDMD people? I was talking with my brother-in-law about the ColorDMD in my Metallica and said the hobbyists are clamoring for someone to get it working on JP. He, being a huge fan of the game and possessing software data tinkering know-how (sorry, I'm not on his level to properly explain his credentials), said he'd like to take a shot at it.

This would be great, I'm software engineer myself and offered to colorize JP probably over a year ago. Was told they already had too many active projects. I hope he has better luck.

#2819 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I really hope this isnt true. How do you turn down business? Theres at least 20-50 of us waiting VERY patiently while they keep pumping out garbage games. (Popeye, WPT, really?) They are sitting on $20k of sales here.

They could already have someone working on it. There could be many reasons why not, I'm not trying to say anything negative about ColorDMD. I considered going the RGB DMD route and inquired about it but there seems to be multiple approaches and issues with the patent. Also not sure what hardware to buy or who from. My offer still stands today with anyone that is doing colorization I'll buy the hardware and will be happy to help out with software or colorization on JP.

3 weeks later
#2869 3 years ago

I like the blinkers, mine didn't have them when I got it but I put them back in. It feels more like the times, like the opening of a big movie with roving spotlights lighting up a marquee. Its just not Jurassic Park without them.

P.S. I used incandescents in my backbox, with one exception of a single LED right at the sun.

3 months later
#3146 2 years ago

Any one with an set of blue slings you want to part with let me know. Lots of people probably replacing plastics these days

1 week later
#3188 2 years ago

Where did you go for that quote? I took my JP parts to a place that mainly did stair and patio railings. It is just standard gloss black so they just threw them in with a run. I don't remember exactly what I paid I just remember thinking, "that's it?" and handing them over. If you not doing a specific color I would look for some place more industrial.

1 month later
#3242 2 years ago

I think I put one LED in my back box for the sun. Everything else just stuck with incandescents looks great and keeps the glare down.

4 weeks later
#3305 2 years ago

It's on a drain that bounces back out into play, isn't it?

1 month later
#3433 2 years ago

I have both the LED and the LCD and I think it really comes down to personal preference. The LED fits much better in JP and is a slightly easier install. The LED is a bit brighter and the LCD a little softer and has the added modes. I only use dots anyway so the modes dont mean much to me.

#3435 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

I think all DE games are only coded for the LED version.

I do not think this is true, I would have Randy confirm.

#3437 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

I'm not 100%, but there is this:

I think that is just the installation instructions. I don't think they have instructions because you have to permantetly mode a little to make the LCD fit in a DE. I am pretty sure the it runs on LCD. If you like LCD I would confirm with Randy and not just order the LED.

#3454 2 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

Quick indeed. I had a tracking number before I was finished calculating the GST I'd need to pay when I bring it across the boarder. I hope it's marked "made in USA", I don't wanna hafta pay duty on top of that...

I sent my wife to get mine for me. I dunno why but it always works. When they ask her what are you bringing back and she says I don't really know its some part for my husband silly pinball machine. They just chuckle and wave her through. If I go pick up, I get lots of questions, what do I do for a living, why can I not get parts in Canada is this for commercial use...

1 week later
#3508 2 years ago

I think he means the hats not the actual flag.

#3521 2 years ago

I have buy in, match and free play on 6.0 no problems.

3 weeks later
#3590 2 years ago

The strategy of draining is hardly new, the whole 6 ball thing is chaos, literally. If your super strategic about shots and scoring the JP wizard mode is not for you.

#3592 2 years ago

My point was draining works and everyone knows it works and yes it is one of the easiest wizard modes ever, everyone knows that. If you're hoping that you are wrong, sorry to be Captain obvious and let you know you're right. It's a fun over the top wizard mode exactly like the summer blockbuster movie. There is no strategy to it and its still awesome.

#3618 2 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

So what is consensus on JP software ver? Are most owners running latest jailbrake Hack from some dude in his garage or Official Data East drop by the real company? Curious if hack helps or screws re-sale value.

CHADH 6.0 code is the bomb, you are lowering value if your not running it. I don't think it was any kind of shots fired just an honest question.

2 weeks later
#3672 2 years ago

I used that play dough like wood filler on mine. Obviously no color match but once they were all cleaned up a cliffy hides it nicely.

1 week later
#3687 2 years ago

Mine has trees so I went with green posts to match.

80BD252A-539D-49D7-B8E9-F51781EF2206 (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#3689 2 years ago

Unfortunately the trees and Raptor were on it when I bought the machine. I added the back panel and scoop lighting, white ball and the rubber.

#3694 2 years ago

You can see it's orange in the first pic. The flash on my phone seems to have made it look way more yellow than it actually is.

4 weeks later
#3750 2 years ago

The lit back panel, or are we considering that the When Dinosaurs...mod?

#3764 2 years ago

I like the idea of a sign that spins for a second you hit the target. I think it should be static most of the time. I also wonder about the cost increase to have it spin.

#3766 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

The one I am developing for my machine will reverse the sign direction when a certain condition is met. It won't be cheap though. The servo itself is $25. Then you have to have a servo controller. I will consider making it available after I play test mine for a while but the price may not be doable. But that's fine because I am primarily making it for my machine. My goal is to make it appear part of the machine and not an look like an "add on"

This sounds great. I don't know if mods are your business and I fault no man for making money. My favorite mods are the ones that sell you the specific parts and tell you how to do the common stuff. IE. You sell the sign and create a guide of where to buy the additional parts and how hook it up. Or maybe sell both options the basic DIY mod and the premium plug and play version.

3 weeks later
#3853 2 years ago

I have an LED in my JP and I have never noticed any ghosting. As to the LCD vs LED debate, I have an LCD in my AC/DC and have never used the additional modes. The only way I could recommend LCD is if you an incandescent guy and want a softer display. If you have LEDs in your machine go LED display, if in doubt go LED, the hassle free install is a perk too.

#3855 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Don't agree. I'm led lights all the way but you lose so many options with the presentation of the dots with led option. Some games look better than others but I wouldn't say if you like LEDs you should go LED color DMD. I generally get LCD.

Like I said I have never used the additional LCD modes so my recommendation is they are not worth it, especially considering the additional hassle of the install on JP.

2 weeks later
#3881 2 years ago

Mine had the pilot hole and the left was a drain monster, I'm so brainwashed I still hardly nudge machines so I put the post in.

#3918 2 years ago

A pinsider sold me mine for pretty cheap its not a ceramic ball. You can buy 4 packs of colored balls, I wish I could remember who was selling them, he had broken up a few packs to sell individual, I think it was less that $20. In that ball park anyway.

Found it http://shop.modmypin.com/ $48 for 4 balls. Maybe you can find 3 other people.

3 weeks later
#4066 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Looks sick. That's LED? LCD doesn't seem to be avail for DE games...

LED and LCD is available for all games. ColorDMD just doesn't provide installation instructions for games that you would have to mod too install. If you can get the LCD in the pin the ROM is available.

#4110 2 years ago

I think I have that piece you broke. I replaced mine when I modded the back board with LEDs. I think I still that the original wood somewhere and I'm not using it. You a long way for a piece of wood but I'll take a look if you want it.

#4150 2 years ago

Mine has the orange slings so I did warm under them and cool under blue. LED Flashers are super bright I replaced the clear domes with blue it helps a lot. I would stay away from the kits just count them up yourself and get a few extra. I recently bought bulbs from Pinball Life and was blown away. I think I avoided his bulbs because his prices were so low and I assumed more expensive bulbs would be better. Man was I wrong his bulbs are top quality, very bright and consistent don't get fooled into paying more.

#4157 2 years ago

Just stick with incandescent flashers or replace the domes. I prefer my blue domes over the clear just wish you could get them with the round tops. I could only find the standard flat top domes. Kinda silly to call them domes

1 week later
#4223 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Best of luck finding new ones. I ended up posting a wanted add and paid something like $30-35 for 3 used ones shipped from Eastern Europe.

Damn for real, I replaced mine with blue domes to tone down the flash. Didn't know they were worth their weight in gold.

1 month later
#4317 1 year ago

Wow that is some of the worst clown puke I have ever scene. I have one LED in the backbox of my JP, a single white in the sun. The JP translight hot spots like crazy. Do the pinstadiums reflect that badly off the ramp to the naked eye?

#4319 1 year ago

It looks good, I don't have the plastic cover on mine on the right side. I tend to take that stuff off at home, I'm not very competitive with pinball so I prefer the clean look even if I get the odd ball stuck. I have the trough lit on mine and its not connect to the GI or Flashers, these DE are so flashy you need a little constant lighting to even them out. I think I'll have to give the home version a try, where did you get the angle brackets?

3 weeks later
#4354 1 year ago
Quoted from outcida:

I'm out of the club for now guys. I'm sure I'll buy another JP at some point in the future. I have some mods you may be interested in.
Winteriscoming T-Rex #3 (brand new never installed) - $400
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress
JP Topper made by Tilttopper (hardly ever used, comes with power tap) - $220
http://www.tilttopper.com/jurassic-park.html
JP alternate translite - $80
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-gate-alternative-pinball-translite/
EnerGI Maestro - GI LED Smoother for Data East pinball machines - $100
https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro/

PM Sent on the Trex

6 months later
#4610 1 year ago
Quoted from pduffy:

Hi,
Just picked up a JP project. Can anyone provide the LEDs needed to replace all lights in the game, backbox, etc...? Hoping to save some money rather than buying the kit.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat

Be careful with the back box on JP. I had LEDs in mine and found i got really bad glare and hot spots. I ended up pulling most of them back out and only using a couple. I think I put one behind the sun and using a couple of red and yellow. The majority just look much better with incandescent and it really cuts down the glare. I also use incandescent blinkers in the bottom row.

#4625 1 year ago

Man if the border and international shipping wasn't such a pain in the ass these days I would be all over this. I miss the days when they just waved your though to hit the post office.

1 month later
#4748 1 year ago

What is the deal with art on cards in a vertical orientation? I have seen a few sets lately and it crushes my brain, it makes no sense.

1 month later
#4888 1 year ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Hi JP lovers!
Maybe I'm going to trade my Phantom of the opera for a Jurassic Park. What are the things I should check in the Jurassic Park? What are common problems? And is it a good deal?
Kind regards,
Dwight

Interesting trade I have both machine and I actually play my Phantom more. Jurassic Park is worth significantly more so I would do the trade. JP is deeper for sure, it's a DMD with lots of modes. Phantom is way shallower but it just has that draw to it, that one more game feeling.

1 week later
#4934 1 year ago
Quoted from shepP:

Wow that looks awesome! Was it hard to do? I thought I read somewhere that it was quite the project and fabrication needed to be done.

I did mine it was really easy, LED strip and a small piece of clear plastic you can get from a hardware store is all you need. There should be lots of information on here on how to do it. One thing I would improve is some type of diffuser on the LEDs.

#4938 1 year ago
Quoted from Rock914:

I have made dozens of these and they still take me 1.5hrs to build and I have the acrylic made for me. I have to drill all the holes for the hardware to mount etc... then the led build, I would not call it easy. Curious how you did yours and what it looks like. To diffuse the leds you can just set the leds back from the acrylic providing you replaced the whole wooden backing with the acrylic.

Post 452 you actually quoted it and I thanked you in it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/10#post-2361460

#4940 1 year ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Ahhh, I had forgotten I made DIY kits. I was thinking you did it from scratch which as you know would be a challenge. I am very happy you were able to make it. Some people do not posses the skill required for such a DIY mod. That’s also why I offer a complete version.

Yeah and for the price you asking it has to be one of the best mods out there. I did it from scratch just followed how you did it. I bought a piece of acrylic from home depot. Its thin and the LED are a little close so I get minor hot spots.

1 week later
#4989 12 months ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone used the Titan star posts in JP? I've decided to just replace all the star posts since there aren't that many but have never used the ones from Titan.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=81

Yeah I used these in mine, I have the orange slings, so I used orange posts and rubber. They look great and no issue with them.

There is a picture in this post. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/24#post-2758271

2 weeks later
#5063 11 months ago

I always take all the clear plastic to prevent the ball getting stuck off all my games at home. I understand why games have them on route but at home they are just ugly. I also replaced the clear domes over the flashers to blue on my JP, just to take a little off how flashy it is.

#5066 11 months ago

I can't remember every having a ball get stuck so I don't see the point. Even if it did get stuck I have thumb lock on all my games so its like 5 seconds to get it unstuck. To me its just clutter that serves no purpose at home, I keep the plastic if I sell and the next owner wants them. What is the issue with removing them, have I angered the pinball purist?

#5068 11 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Just think its dumb. Having to stop a game, remove the glass. What if its during league or you are having a badass game? You just ruined it because of a piece of clear plastic, lol. To each their own bro, just seems really silly.

Well considering its never actually happened and I'm not in a league or play in any way competitively. I don't take pinball that seriously, if you do I understand why you would want to keep them on. You were just real quick with the thumbs down and face palm emoji, it doesn't really fit with the whole "to each their own". I thought I broke some pinball commandment.

#5091 11 months ago

Incandescent flashers are seizure inducing on JP, LEDs are nuts. I put the blue domes over incandescent flashers and its way better. I don't mind colored LEDs flashers but the pure white ones are pretty brutal.

#5161 11 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

The guy originally wanted $3,700. I took a snapshot pf Pinside average value of $2,700 and offered him that.
He said no right away and i told him that if he changed hi mind down the road let me know. He hit me back at $2,800, i accepted and picked it up the following Saturday. Based on some of the comments you guys made I at least feel like i made an ok deal then.
I also ordered and paid for Cliffys, a full new rubber set, the Novus cleaning kit and 6 brand new pinballs.
I almost ordered the Ceramic White ball from Marcos but $50 seemed steep to get that "Egg" look.
If you guys know of a cheaper Ceramic white egg to be found let me know.
thanks!

I think Mezel Mods sells singles of the Glo Balls for $15. The white looks great, it does not actually glow in the dark or tint green.

1 month later
#5513 10 months ago

DMD Glare eliminator is a miracle worker on JP. If you have any LED's in the back box take them out. I have lighted the back of the playfield it helps brighten things up. I also have added a couple spotlights one on the left sling to light the middle of the playfield and one by the third flipper to light up that area. I find if you light things up well under the glass it helps cut down the outside lights reflected off it.

1 week later
#5653 9 months ago

I replaced the clear domes in my JP with blue, they look better on the blue plastics and they take a lot of the flashers. Domes are cheap probably less than an LED flasher, if you getting blinded give it a shot. As far as LED lighting in the GI I try and match warmth. I use warms under reds and orange plastic or artwork and cool under blues. I do like to color match inserts but that is personal preference and it does mean you have to pay more attention when your order LEDs. The backbox in JP I put one white LED in the sun everything else I left incandescent as you get lots of hot spots and glare on the playfield the more you light up the backbox. I did color match the back box across the top with red and orange or yellow so the topper lights up just like the sunset.

1 month later
#6034 8 months ago

I think its an awesome idea. I agree its a little bulky, I also have my goat in that same spot so I like the idea of it following the ramp like posted above. It's kinda tricky I like that you have it close to the pops for Electric Fence mode. Maybe a way to incorporate both.

4 weeks later
#6300 7 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

Got to Wizard mode for the first time with my ColorDMD and may have found an issue with it. During the part where everything goes haywire, the DMD didnt show the meltdown of the system. It just showed the current mode activated until the wizard mode started. Not sure if maybe the current active mode override the wizard mode animation, but I've always seen it with the stock DMD.
Also, as a tip, if you have your smart missile still during Wizard mode, it's pointless to use it. I still had mine, and hoped that it would rack up millions. It did not. Saw no benefit from it.

ColorDMD can’t effect what is out put to the DMD it can only colour it. The worst that can happen is a frame is not identified and it will just show in the default colour. It could not cause a scene to not show. It is possible in sprite mode that it could get lost or stuck in the wrong palette but again the images would still output they would just be very oddly coloured.

1 month later
-1
#6720 6 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I was going to sell my DEJP but I don't think I can do it... I guess Dialed in gets the axe.
I'm too attached, and something seems cool about lining all 3 JP pins up together.

I have the other two as well but I dunno about the new one. I know its early and we haven't seen much but visually it feels like a pin for a low budget Saturday morning cartoon. It doesn't capture the movie at all. The original Data East playfield is pretty terrible art wise but the pin really captures the movie. The sound the dots, the black cabinet just like the poster, it is great integration of the film and theme.

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