(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,135 posts
  • 416 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Davi
  • Topic is favorited by 184 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (5 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (5 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (5 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (5 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (4 years ago)

Post #436 Rock Custom Pinball Under Cab Lighting mod Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #457 Rock Custom Pinball Acrylic Playfield Backer Mod [Video] Posted by Rock914 (4 years ago)

Post #510 GoodToBeDad's Ramp Gate Mod - Controlled with a PIG2 [Video] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #554 1:43 Scale JP JEEP [Amazon Link] Posted by winteriscoming (4 years ago)

Post #570 T-Rex Saucer Replacement [Link] Posted by outcida (4 years ago)

Post #631 T-Rex Hand Puppet Mod Posted by smerff (4 years ago)

Post #687 Loopcombo Site Link Posted by accidental (4 years ago)

Post #743 JP Jeep Flasher Mod [Video / Link to thread] Posted by lkadlec (4 years ago)

Post #950 Chad's Unofficial Code [Link] Posted by ChadH (4 years ago)

Post #1092 CPU / Display Chip Locations [Picture] Posted by Crash (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5272 8 months ago

Just brought home a JP this weekend. Had to replace the connectors on the power supply for the GI lighting, those were burnt to hell.

Couple of questions:
1) Can anyone provide a picture or confirm if there should be posts near the outlanes? Looks like there should be one on the right side for sure, i found 1 picture to validate that. On the left side i'm not sure. On my game someone just drove a screw right into the playfield there, so i've removed that, but want to know if i need to put in a new post there or not.

2) The connector on the PPB for the GI lighting (upper left of board). I replaced that one with a new one and redid the wiring, however the very first pin (far left) doesn't seem to be used. So just want to validate that. Based on the wires i had, and accounting for the key'd hole, i just don't have anything to connect to that far left pin. Everything appears to be working on the game, so not sure!

Thanks!!

#5274 8 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

The post is up to you. They playfield is dimpled for it. Most I've played don't have a post installed.
My far left pin on J5 is used. Is any of your gi not working?

That’s kind of what I thought on the post.

All my GI is working. Can you post a picture of the connector? Curious on the wiring.

#5275 8 months ago

Found this with some digging. J5 wiring

Pin 9 wht/vio Playfield
pin 8 key
pin 7 wht/grn back box door
pin 6 wht/yel plfd & coin door
pin 5 wht/brn back box door

pin 4 wht/vio
pin 3 wht/grn
pin 2 wht/yel
pin 1 wht/brn all go to PS connector 8

pin 1 to 4 on PPB side is 6.3 vac IN
pin 5 to 9 on PPB side is Fused 6.3 vac out

#5282 8 months ago

Just gonna be one of those weekends i guess.

The lamps out, i traced to the following... so probably a control issue there...
“C” arch 48
red-gry cn6-9
Yel-blu cn7-7

Left Turbo Bumper 62
Red-blu cn6-7
Yel-gry cn7-9

Then i shorted something and loss the whole column on the switch matrix...
Column 6
Cn8-7 grn-blu

#5283 8 months ago

One other question, i searched this thread and the internet a bit, but didn't have much luck. Probably not using the right terms.

Is it possible to replace the insert in front of t-rex? I noticed it's screwed in from the bottom instead of a pressed/glued insert. Is a replacement available?

Thanks!

#5288 8 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Yes. Search Marco or Pinballlife for “eject hole” or “eject Shield”

Sweet! Thanks so much!

Quoted from Lonzo:

And when you replace it. You will see that one of the screws is missing. Don’t put a screw in there or it will poke out the top of the playfield. It’s over the lower area around that insert.

Great tip!

Quoted from edward472:

Start here
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm
It will walk you through manual testing your switch matrix for issues

Will do, I ordered a RottonDog anyways, but i would like to fix the stock board when i have more time.

#5317 8 months ago

Got everything address in my JP except for the ball kicker into the shooter lane. I replaced the switch and now it’s seeing the ball fine but takes 2-4 attempts to eject the ball into the shooter lane.

I’ve tried adjusting everything but I’m guessing there is a simple fix I’m missing?

Appreciate any insight, last thing to have it working 100%!

#5320 8 months ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Have you replaced the coil sleeve yet? What steps have you done so far?

I have not yet, but can try that. Checked all the wiring and tried a few different angles by bending the bracket, seems like it always catches the side of the ball.

I'll see if i have some coil sleeves laying around and try that.

#5322 8 months ago

So turned out the wrong sleeve was installed. Stole one from the knocker and now it works perfectly!

2 weeks later
#5520 7 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

OK, so I purchased the “correct” sleeve, and it looks exactly like the ones thats already in there....
Im still having issues. The game still doesnt recognize that there is a ball in the trough vuk. It will leave a ball sitting there and think that a ball is missing and go into ball search during multiball.
The switch tests fine in diagnostics, AND I replaced the switch based on chadh recomendation that ut could be bad if it tests good.
What the fuq is wrong with this stupid machine? Im super pissed right now. [quoted image]

The VUK should have a flanged sleeve. I had issues with mine until i put the proper sleeve in, works every time now. Make sure that trough switch is being triggered by the weight of the ball.

-1
#5521 7 months ago

Sometimes i shouldn't read this thread, LOL, just ordered a EnerGI Maestro...

Finally got done going through my JP and un-doing all the work from previous owners that shouldn't be allowed near games... things are properly soldered, shrinked tubed etc now... replaced fuse holders that were jumpered etc... replaced burnt connectors and replaced main power wiring that was twisted together and electrical taped... and many others... fun times

Also installed:
X-pin power supply, replace burnt/exploded GI connectors as well
Pinsound full speaker and board kit with headphone station
ColorDMD
OCD board for inserts (had from Williams game)
Full LED's on entire game
Titan rubber rings
Invisiglass (had a sheet)
Put a new red translucent insert in front of T-Rex and then lighted it with a red LED (linked to feed T-Rex)
White egg (ceramic ball)
Ninja pinballs
Replaced the legs with properly length black legs, black bolts and black levelers
Removed hardware wood screw that was in the left outlane post position... ridiculous... installed proper post and repaired the hole

I do have a brand new MPU-004 from Rottendog that I didn't end up needing, i'll posting that for sale soon if anyone needs one.

Think that's about it... been a long couple of weeks getting everything together...

#5546 7 months ago

So T-Rex operating theory question...

I was having some intermittent issues where T-rex would only go halfway. One thing I noticed in test mode is that in theory, once the motor hits the up or bottom switch, it would stop (in the game, not test mode) and then reverse direction. However if it rotated past the switch, then it would be able to go behind the opposite switch. In theory this would cause a situation where it would only register up (going behind the bottom switch) or bottom (going behind the up switch). It appears to stop and reverse if it hits resistance as well.

Anyways, that seemed odd to me, so I took the very ends of the switches and bent them about 45 degrees, this eliminates the possibly for the peg to rotate behind the switch. Instead it can rotate all day long and always hit the top/bottom switches without ever going behind. My T-Rex has been 100% since doing that.

Not sure what the switch leafs are supposed to look like, mine were just flat.

#5569 7 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I put a little grease on the metal rials to make the playfield slide easier on the rails.

After i did the same, i have never had any trouble sliding the playfield in/out. Before i greased it, I had to do the sideways grab and lift.

#5578 7 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

[quoted image]

Your 2nd image, not sure why it’s not showing up....

You put a rubber on that adjustment post? Do most people?

1 week later
#5670 7 months ago

I've got Pinsound and GI Maestro in my JP, both highly recommended. I have the OCD board for the inserts as well..

#5681 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Mine are just like yours in that the right flipper has more range. Can’t tell you if this is by design, soothing a previous owner did, or a simple adjustment. My flipper assemblies look really good, so I am sure they had a fairly recent rebuild. I just need to take a closer look at the stops when I get a chance.

Probably has a coil stop that's more worn. I lost about 1" of range when i replaced the coil stops with new ones, they were super beat up though, the linkage was hitting the coil actually. I did a full flipper rebuild and replaced everything.

#5685 7 months ago
Quoted from Geteos:

I just rebuilt the flippers on my getaway and it looked like the flippers had less range then before. The old stops were pretty worn down so that would make a lot of sense.
I also rebuilt the upper right flipper on my JP and it really helped with making the helicopter shot.

Yeah I should redo the top one as well.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro but had to sign up to be on a waiting list.
Anyone aware of an alternate source or one for sale anywhere? I checked the Pinside Market, but nothing there.

I got lucky when I ordered a few weeks ago!

2 months later
#6450 5 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

chalkey gave me this advice a few months back.
"If you moosh together the eos contacts (or bridge them with a test lead) does it flip? There is a service bulletin about this issue. I had it happen after doing a flipper rebuild kit."
Also, lonzo suggests the following: "During the time that it is dead, are you getting the red light on the flipper board? Also check your connections to the flipper board. When it is dead, try moving the connectors around. May need a new connector or the solder may need re-flowed on the pins."
So, check those EOS switch contacts and check your fuses/fuse clips on the flipper board.

So i'm having this same issue after a complete flipper rebuild on both flippers, but only have issues with the left flipper going dead. It's random. I've resoldered everything to make sure it's not a bad solder joint as well.

Any other tips or things to check? I will look into the flipper board connectors as well.

Thanks!

1 week later
#6553 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Yall see that 5500 jp in madison? Dude is smoking something...

Do the math on the mods, It's simply game value + mods. As I stated in the ad, happy to sell without the mods if someone wants a nice clean JP. I don't think most people bothered to actually read the description. I'll consider any reasonable offer on the game, nearly all of the mods can be pulled off and sold or reused on another game, so i'm not going to lose my ass on those for no reason when i can reuse them. The only one specific to JP/Data East is the GI Maestro, everything else I can use on a Williams.

#6555 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I just thought it was funny that a guy in madison thought my game was over priced with $1000 worth of mods at 4k. You have around the same amount of money tied into your game. Just different mods. GLWTS

Yeah, there are always people who want to get it for below market price, i get that. I've been watching the for sale ads for months before i bought mine and since i bought it as I knew it wouldn't stay for long, but wanted to have one to play for awhile. Mine is super clean with very little wear, so it's better than most out there. I spent a lot of time hunting down super clean machines.

I will most likely pull the mods off as sell the game separate, but I'm not in a big hurry, so figured I'd just post it up as is and if the right buyer came along, great. If someone really wanted a clean JP, they will probably message me. But the way it's listed should keep most of the low-ballers out of my hair and only get serious buyers.

3 weeks later
#6697 3 months ago

Hey everyone, I pulled some parts off my JP and listed them for sale, if anyone needs any of the following, hit me up:

X-Pin Power Supply
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/82460

ColorDMD
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/82461

Full PinSound Ultimate Kit (Speakers, pinsound, headphone station)
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/82463

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