Picking up a JP next week which will be my first pin. Any tips on things to look for? It's already got the cliffy inserts installed. The "dock" ejector isn't working and I'm hoping that should be a fairly easy fix.
I officially joined the club today! Won't be able to get it home until late tonight, and I have a non-firing coil to troubleshoot but I'm really excited!
Edit: is there a fuse for just the boat dock ejector coil, or if it's just the boat dock coil not working can fuses be ruled out?
The ball deflector in front of the t rex got loose. I went to screw it in and the screws will not fully fasten as they cannot center on the holes due to the deflector being butted up on the post on the right. The bottoms of all these screws are under the t rex mechanism, and the deflector screws seem like they are somehow captured. Anybody got an easy fix?
Edit: I torqued down on them and they got flush, but then it is binding up t rex's side to side movement somehow (the black "skirt" is clear).
Edit 2: now t rex moves but is slow and stuttering. Oh god what have I done?
I put small nuts in between the shield and playfield, good call. It seems t rex also moves a lot more gingerly in diagnostic mode than when doing self diagnostics at startup which is odd. He still is just a tad stuttery in one direction but it is much worse when working in the diags menu.
Is the velociraptor always supposed to explode after 5-6 shots? I feel like it always did on 5.03 but since I upgrade to 6 0 it will often stop letting you fire after 6 shots and the raptor runs away.
Also... Would a little electronics cleaner in the t rex motors help smooth things out a little bit? He's staying to get a little fussy. Occasionally his downward motion will show down in the middle just a bit and it causes him to run his face into the ball and make a horrible noise. This did not happen in 5.03 but I imagine it's unrelated and just due to the fact I'm probably putting a shitload of plays on the game.
Holy shit. Has my one way bracket been installed backwards by the p.o.? Mine bounces off it towards the upper right flipper.
Before cleaning / waxing it would always go up towards the dock giving you a nice shot at t rex or the helipad on the way back down
Yeah I'm surprised about the hype when it costs tree fiddy. That's just way too much IMO but it is neato.
I need someone to post a video of Dr. Hammond making it rain while they're doing the T-Rex one.
Anyone else have an extremely violent shaker? Any way to dial it down? It is stupid loud and shakey.
I've got some noob pinball wiring questions that are only partially park specific
My middle scoop switch only works if the ball goes in the scoop with some force. The actual mechanics of the switch seem like it should be working well but it is not. I popped the hood and looked underneath and one of the lugs is de-soldered. However, it still works with or without that point making contact when I activate the switch by hand. Why the hell is that? Does the switch just need manual adjustment? Is it supposed to be soldered on there because it sure looks like it.
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My other question is about the dock eject coil. The way it is sitting now the lugs are sticking out and can get knocked around and contact the rails when the playfield is being taken out. Can the whole coil be turned so that the lugs are pointing to the inside instead of outside?
Thanks for the follow up. Maybe that's what's going on with mine. I haven't had time to mess with it. I'd love for it to be that easy.
Pin2d- Thanks for blazing the trail. My shaker motor was loose now it is perfect. A funny side effect is that t rex no longer has a stutter in his downward motion and is 100% instead of like 80% on ball consumption.
I had a similar problem in chaos and I believe it turned out to be the rightmost trough switch.
I will try to bank it off the left post of the captive ball. 60% of the time it works every time.
It's a $15 swap out if a potential buyer doesn't want it. It makes a lot of things better.
Quoted from hawkeyexx:
orangesc and I have joined the club
Ordered new Chad H roms
Will need to do some diag time with it. One issue is the ball is getting stuck under the far left pop bumper. The Dino is having left right issues.
My Dino left/right turned out to be the plate in front of him being too tight. Installed some spacers and much better. Good luck, and welcome to the club!
Incredible control on that first tri ball! I usually end up having to use my smart missle when the second ball is draining to start the chaos multiball.
"But this is my idea of a date"
I'd give you at least a "b" that thing looks mint. I'm jelly every time I see an undamaged T-rex saucer. My p.o. Also put cliffys over unrepaired scoops that make hitting modes (and chaos) just a teeny bit harder. Still haven't gotten to system shutdown and trying to work up the grapes to square off those holes.
That scoop mod is badass. What light is it linked to? Would be cool if you could get them all lit up for the modes and CHAOS.
Hey dudes. My lower GI is out. I've been messing around with it all morning. The upper GI and lower GI sockets both are getting about 12v (the upper is working fine). If they're getting the same power, why don't the damn lower sockets get lit? I checked the fuses and CN8 / J5, wiggled everything and no joy. All the connections on the sockets are attached as they should be and under playfield molex connections are good. What am I missing?
Good gravy do you need to clamp down tight on those flipper bats. It felt like I was going to rip the mount from the bottom of the playfield before the flippers would stay put after doing a rebuild.
Set a new GC on my park yesterday, it was about 550M. Later in the evening for no apparent reason all the high scores were lost and I didn't get a picture. Weird because the machine was on the whole time so it wasn't the batteries.
Edit: damn. Forgot to change that 700 adjust when I put the 6.0 roms in. TIL my wife plays the shit out of JP when I'm not home.
Be sure to check first that the guide didn't move back. I think that would be the most likely culprit.
That's a weird issue. If you're sure it's not a switch problem try re seating your rom. Sounds like your black button is depressed though.
I had a similar problem with the new eos that came with my rebuild kit. After many adjustments kept having the same issue as you, every so often the flipper would stop working. A good cleaning with a business card and alcohol did the trick.
It sounds like your ramp switch might be stuck on, have you run the switch test? When you get three ramps it says "Dino dna" and lights mr dna in the left scoop.
I got mine with leds pre installed and the flashers are blinding. Everything else is great. I did a basic white rubber kit with 4 yellow cliffy post rubbers up top and it looks good but I might consider some titan flipper rubbers and stuff next time.
I think I'd make one out of popsicle sticks and tinfoil before I dropped 300 on one.
My Cliffy's were installed by the p.o. without the damage being repaired. As a result the protector dipped down into the damage part and the edge is slightly lifted. As a result a slow travelling ball will deflect if it is coming in at a shallow angle. I'll get around to fixing it after I try my first scoop repair on my hook. Even with the raised sides the effect is pretty minimal.
So basically make sure you put some wood filler in before installing.
Quoted from mbott1701:
I had made my own labels for the stand up targets.
Those are great! I wish the rivets didn't interfere so bad.
waldo34 sounds like you're on the right track.
I screwed up and broke one of my pterodactyls. Is this wire something I can get at home depot? If so, what gauge?
Home depot and hobby lobby were both out of the wire. Finally got it at another local craft store from the "floral" section.
The lady asked me what I needed it for. Fixing my toy dinosaur lady, leave me alone. It only came in packs of 30 x 1.5' so now I have a shitload of Pteronodon wire. Surprisingly easy to work with.
Is there a dimmer flasher LED available, or another workaround for the bright flashers?
I did the mod and it seems to me like they are more likely to get significantly moved by the raptor laser kick than before. But I won't have to worry about the eos issue ever again so that's nice.
Last night I had some people over and had an odd issue. The egg would register multiple hits when struck. Three only thing I did was lift the playfield to check the switch gap and it was good, even with three captive ball resting on the target. Going to dig deeper today but anyone else had this?
I'm not sure about the slack but trex is supposed to move left and right with each chew after eating a ball if that's what you're talking about.
Quoted from MisterBiscuit:
Newbie here. I have a JP that the trex doesn't chomp the ball. I have scoured the forums, and found out that the wires for the coil will break. So I rewired both wires and still not working. Poking around and I noticed a loose wire (it is a solid green wire, that connects to coil...can somebody tell me where it goes?). I read other topics that to ground out any loose wires. I did that and still not working. Now I also have other coils not working, so I checked fuses and all of the fuses that I checked are good. Sorry I can't remember exactly which coils are not working. So anyway, where do I go from here? Thanks in advance....
I don't think you want to ground out random wires. That's probably why your coils stopped working.
There is a green with a very light tracer... (grey maybe? ) that attaches to the up / down limit switch, is that what you're looking for? I don't see solid green near trex.
T-rex has been working really well lately, probably eating 14/15 or so. On league night he started getting full and failing on 4/5. It's in the up/down part of the process, he seems to have a moment of hesitation about halfway down and ends up not getting all the way over the pinball before chomping, or chomping then running his face into the pinball. What should I be looking for? I seem to remember there being a guide out there but I couldn't find it with google or pinside search.
The "down" switch definitely isn't getting hit until he is at the bottom, but he is still chomping early. Why would this be? Something in the code to bite after X seconds if the down switch isn't activated?
The reason he's hesitating on the way down is the crank arm is wallowed out at the t-rex side. Does anyone have an extra one laying around? I wasn't able to find one using the part number or name.
That is why they failed as a company.
So my trex was actually being slowed down by running into the plastic at his side. Bent the metalform away and he's chomping away again. This was of course hours after screwing with the other parts.
I don't remember having to remove trex to get that plastic off of that's what you mean
If you moosh together the eos contacts (or bridge them with a test lead) does it flip? There is a service bulletin about this issue. I had it happen after doing a flipper rebuild kit.
Another thing to do would be to tone out the connections on either side downstream of your solder work to make sure its solid. Wiggle it since it seems like an intermittent issue.
Do the T-rex test and see if the right, left and center switches are activating as they should for starters. Sounds like it one of the switch leaves might have gotten bent or stuck under there somewhere, that might be what you're hearing.
My trex saucer is slightly worn and not getting any better. Your scoops can be filled and cliffied but no such fix for rex. Not worth a new PF right now but it is one of my wife's favorites so maybe in the future.
Yeah that would be awesome. I keep putting off repairing my little service leg things that are each hanging on by one screw.
Def 2 plastics. I need the lower one that has the flasher dome on it if anybody else has an extra.
Cliffys are a must or your scoops will get wallowed out and look like shit. The thing is you have to fix any wear in the scoops before installing or the cliffys will deform over time and the lips will stick up and cause misses.
You 100% need to square off your scoop holes with wood filler before installing cliffy's or the edges will raise, causing missed shots. The p.o. of my game did not do this :/
Chaos is easy to get to. Just hit one jackpot and hit the smart missile before you exit multiball!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
From a support thread I created, things seem to be pointing to my gearbox. I've searched everywhere, but cannot seem to find an explanation on how to remove it from the game. Can someone please detail for me (or point me to a place that already describes it) how to remove the gearbox? I assume you have to somehow pull the entire T-Rex assembly, but I can't figure out how to do that either.
Did you ever get anywhere on this? I'm going to look at one later today that is stuck left.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
Nope. I'm at the point where I can't figure out how to remove the entire assembly which is required if you are going to detach the gearbox (there are 3 screws attaching the gearbox accessible from topside, but one of them is completely covered by a metal plate above it). Trying to get someone who has actually done it before to instruct me or at least have someone point me to where it is documented (I've not been able to find anything yet).
After doing a little more reading have you tried reflowing solder on the relay board under the PF and fuse board above the shaker?
Intermittent flippers on DE games a lot of times is EOS related. Try squeezing the contacts together briefly and tapping the button and see if they come alive. Also solder / connections on the flipper board inside the cab.
It sounds like your T-rex position switches aren't working correctly Mr. Tantrum.
Have you checked your fuses? There are a few candidates for getting in the way when lowering the playfield coil wise, especially the boat dock IIRC.
Edward472 sounds like one of your coil stops is probably more worn on one side than the other, or possibly more slop in the linkage, plunger, etc. A flipper rebuild kit is the way to solve it.
Are all your switches working in test? Is he chomping after eating the ball? If not it might never recognize the up position or something and just cycle.
Picked up a playfield protector for one of these. Any big hiccups installing these, other than the PITA that is removing that ramp?
Quoted from ypurchn:
what's the point of a PF protector? JP really doesn't see much wear besides the scoops. I can't think of an example I've seen that's shown PF wear except for the scoops which can be protected by Cliffys. IMO - save your effort for something else. Adjusting the switches alone makes putting on a protector a hard sell in my book.
The ramp is easy peasy to remove. Nice heavy plastic makes it pretty durable to any twisting or whatever you need to do to get it out.
Adjusting switches is like the easiest thing to do in pinball, and usually doesnt need to be done.
I've got paint coming off by the t-rex scoop area and starting to wear through on the shooter lane. It's been getting worse despite new pinballs and regular cleaning / waxing.
Quoted from J-Freeze:
I put comet 2smd "ice blue" in my pops and and they lightup a nice green. (Phone pic doesn't do it justice as usual)
As far as the cliffys go I had to move my control room/bunker trough back as far as possible, after that I don't find it that hard to hit, not as easy as without, don't get the lazy drop ins but not too many rejects of a good shot either.
The power shed is the only one that I wouldn't mind having the easy ones drop into, I might take that one off because it doesn't take as much of a beating as the other two.
You should always fill the scoop damage before installing cliffy's or they're going to deform and cause issues with slow rollers. It looks like your C scoop cliffy might be starting to bend already.
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