Just joined the club on Friday. I've already got lots of ideas in regards to mods thanks to all the suggestions on this thread and the other JP mods thread. Can't wait to clean it and put a nice coat of wax on it to really make it shine. The previous owner obviously didn't know that you can clean these games every once in a while. I also need to tweak a few things, and I'll be burning the new 6.00 code tonight to the ROMs. Thanks Chad, I read what the new code does and it sounds amazing.

IMG_3088_(resized).JPG

Just replaced all my inserts and flashers with LEDs. They look amazing, the blues, reds and greens are awesome, they really make those inserts pop. But I was a little disappointed in the yellows, they're didn't really bring out the yellow of the plastic in the inserts. I am thinking about getting white LEDs for those yellow inserts because the whites really bring out the color of the insert.

I will be doing a replacement of all the GIs tomorrow when I strip the playfield to clean and wax and replace rubber.

And after I clean and reassemble the playfield I will add extra dinos and palm trees. I'll post some pictures once it's all done.

Yeah this was my first attempt at LED-ing a game and for the most part I am very happy, just the yellows were the only let down. Live and learn I guess. I have a Taxi, which of course is predominantly yellow, so maybe I can through those yellow LEDs in there somewhere. In any case I'll probably put in a new order through Comet LED because I forgot to get the DMD glare eliminator on my first order anyway. Doh!!

Pink LEDs for yellow pop bumpers and yellow inserts!? And it looks really good?! What sorcery is this???

I'm assuming the "A" insert from the chaos letters has a pink LED in it? Looks really good.

Those little signs are awesome! But where would you put them? Might look cool on each side of the topper?

Any ideas or recommendations for protecting the T-Rex saucer? Not the plastic saucer that is screwed in from the bottom, but the routed wood area around it. The left edge is starting to wear on mine. I was thinking about taping around it and spraying it with some triple thick to protect that area. Any thoughts, good or bad?

I love that cheeky "Bone Busting" mode at the very end of the video, demonstrating the working gate mod.

Nice work, those lit scoops look really awesome.

I just ordered the scoop light mod from loopcombo.com. Josh is an awesome guy from what I gather after our transaction. I emailed him asking to let me know when they were back in stock, and he emailed me back yesterday saying they were available again. I placed my order and everything seems to have gone very smoothly (so far). Can't wait for them to come in so I can install them. Super easy and clean website too!

Awesome, I was wonder what other games you were working on. Unfortunately for me, I do not own a TAF. It might be worth visiting the TAF club thread and letting owners know there.

I am thinking about adding a sub to my JP. Although not sure yet as I've had a couple more purchases since then. Would you say it's worth it?

Another simple and easy thing to troubleshoot is reseating the chips. Take them off and put them back on. Sometimes one leg isn't making great contact and it can be as easy as that.

You can use a lower amperage fuse to test, but never a higher value. However if the 3 amp fuse blows it may not mean much or help diagnosis since it might just not be able to handle the load on it.

I haven't had my JP for long but I was able to put up a solid 1.1 billion point game a few nights ago. Normal outlane settings, normal difficulty software settings, running Chad's code.

What's everyone else's high score?

(I didn't realize until after the game that the Jackpot and Super Jack during the chaos mode is based on how many balls you have in play. I only got a few 200 million point jacks because I only had two balls in play. Next time I will know to try and keep as many balls out there in order to try and score a 600 million point jack with all 6 balls in play. Easier said than done though.)

So here's a scenario/question: Let's say you are in the chaos mode, you have gotten all the chaos letters, and the jackpots are lit. If you use your smart missile here, will it pick up both jackpot and super jackpot, or just one of them? Because if you were able to get there and use the smart missile then, you could really rack up some score with just that button.

I would try this out myself, but some newer purchases have taken up the remaining square footage in our game room and I had to move JP to a place which is rather difficult to get to now...

Can you test your DMD in another game? That will help troubleshoot if it's a bad display or not.

Is that only 200 million? I'm not trying to sound rude or mean, but that's a pretty low score for this game. Do you know the rules and how to score on this game? There are many points to be had if you can get into the Chaos mode. Just one jackpot at its lowest value is 200 million points. And if you've gotten to the Chaos mode you would have had to have scored at least one jackpot during tri-ball. So just getting to Chaos would probably put you over the 200 million mark. And if you can score a Chaos jackpot, I believe the value of the jackpot is based on how many balls you still have in play. So if you can score a jack with 6 balls in play, that's a 600 million point jack.

You can read the rules here: http://pinball.org/rules/jurassicpark.html

Again, not trying to be mean or rude, just trying to inform a fellow pinsider because reading this really helped me out in how to score big on this game. Hope this helps. My high score right now is only 1.1 billion, but I'm definitely looking to get into the 2 billion before feeling good about my score.

I absolutely do have the new code, it was the first thing I did to the game when I bought it. The rules I posted are basics to go off of and still pretty much tell you how to progress through the game. Sorry for trying to help.

So as a ghetto fix I simply bent a paper clip around the wire form in the area where the ball was falling out. For my game, my ball was exiting the wire form and rolling over the sling plastic. I just got a paper clip and wrapped it so that it made sure the ball couldn't exit that same way. It's hardly noticeable when playing. It's not a permanent fix, but it does keep the ball from potentially damaging the plastic.

I think a better permanent solution is to soften the impact the ball makes when it hits the end of the wire form. I think that's what makes the ball "jostle" and ricochet out. So a piece of rubber or foam attached at the impact area should help this.

Haha like I said it's not the most brilliant fix but it does get the job done. I will hopefully follow up soon with a picture of some installed foam padding that will look nicer and work just as well.

I have been in this hobby for far longer than just a year. Our first pin was almost 20 years ago now. I decided to finally make an account not long ago to help the community here. My original post was simply stating that getting to Chaos mode would rack up a lot of points. I even tried to say that I wasn't being rude or mean because a simple block of text can't really convey the overall meaning and tone.

And some people might not realize the full extent of the rules of a game. They might think one score is decent when really you can score much higher. I for one thought ~200 million on Spiderman was pretty good but soon realized you can score an insane amount of points for how far I progressed in the game, thanks to pinsiders and their knowledge of the game.

I also haven't posted my collection because I'd just rather not. I don't think it's many peoples business to know which games I do or don't have. I like to keep most things private on a site full of strangers.

Sure, I can try and snag a photo some time this week. It isn't pretty, but it gets the job done. And in all honesty, I barely even notice the paper clip any more.

If anyone is selling Chad's code they better be doing so at his approval, and he better be getting a cut.

eBay prices are a joke. It sucks because most people who don't know pinball and want sell their games on Craigslist will ask insane prices and cite eBay: "This game is going for $4K on eBay, I'm only asking for $3K" on a game like Meteor or something.

Don't ever take serious consideration on those prices on eBay, they are at least 3x times more than realistic.

After watching his video, I realize that there are some animations on the DMD that I have not seen on my game. And I am running Chad's 6.00 code. I will have to investigate.

Sorry, this one.

Funny thing, after I installed the new code I was explaining to my dad that the first mode wouldn't be stampede, and that it is now a random mode. Wouldn't you freaking know it, the stampede mode was picked out of the random set. I had a bit of a panic because I wasn't sure the code was installed/working properly, but on the next game it was a different mode.

Wow that sounds awesome, but I didn't know the price of the pinsound board was going to be $350! Seems on the expensive side to me.

Nope, I'm sending money now. Isn't that how the pinball buying aspect goes? Hear a vague idea, throw money at it and hope for the best.

I'm having a strange issue on my JP. Over the weekend my dad and I moved a few games around and rearranged the game room. We went to turn on the game this evening after the move and the raptor pit coil locks on immediately. We took the CPU board off and tested all the transistors, and they all checked out fine.

With the CPU board off we tested the game again, and the raptor pit coil still locks on. We were able to trace the wires via the schematic to J8 on the power supply board. We disconnected that and tested it, and the coil did NOT lock on. So I think we've at least figured out it's not on the CPU board, and instead on the power board.

What we are thinking (after further reading of the schematic) is that Q4 on the power board might be bad. Anyone know how to test that transistor? It's bigger than a normal transistor, TIP36C. I just checked it quickly to compare to the neighboring transistors and it tested similarly to the others.

We have not checked the coil itself. Could the diode on the coil fail and lead to it locking on like that?

Edit: I looked up how to test a TIP36C and Q3, Q4, and Q5 and they all tested bad. Q1 and Q2 tested as they should and seemed fine. Seems odd that three of those would go out simultaneously.

Morning bump since I posted this at about midnight last night.

Anyone know if they use JP in PAPA or similar tournaments? I haven't seen it ever played, and I don't see any competition videos on pinballvideos.com or YouTube.

I'm guessing they don't use it because Data East has that feature where if you don't light your Tri-Ball by ball 3, it automatically lights it for you and is easy to get multiball. If that's the case, that seems kind of weird since there is still a lot left to play for and if you have the skill set you can really rack up some scoring in the chaos mode.

Edit: Upon further playing of my game last night, it seems that tri-ball was not lit automatically on ball 3. I vaguely remember adjusting that in the settings, to make it a bit more difficult. So maybe it is a setting where you can turn that off.

I got a new Polk audio sub for Christmas! Anyone know how to hook up the sub, or willing to give some suggestions? This is my first subwoofer for a pin, so just want to make sure I install it properly.

Hooked up the sub, it sounds awesome. I also have FT right next to it connected to the sub. Our pins are all packed in pretty tightly so getting access to the back isn't really possible, so I just fed the speaker wire through the little coin return flap thing.

What an awesome sounding game with this mod. Gonna need to get more subwoofers now.

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Could also be the power supply. I had a similar issue and it ended up being a cap on the power supply, not the PPB.

Check your test points on the power supply board. First make sure you are getting correct voltages to that board. I had a similar issue and I checked all kinds of things on the CPU board and PPB, but then thought I should check the voltage on the power supply. Sure enough I wasn't getting enough voltage and through further diagnostics we found that one of the caps was bad. Can't remember which one specifically, but replaced that $1 part and it was good to go.

In the summer I placed an order with Comet for most of the playfield bulbs (inserts and GI). Here is a screenshot of my order. I would replace the yellow bulbs with white though. The yellow just isn't bright enough and the color is not very vivid. The rest of the bulbs are great though.

It's also not 100% perfect, I think there were some bulbs I needed/wanted to change out for some other ones. For example, off the top of my head I would like to try out the pop bumper rings instead of just the wedge style bulb. I think I also forgot the 4 T-rex bulbs on the apron. But at least it's something to start with.

I haven't done the back box yet, but that should be pretty easy to count and figure out what you need for that.

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Yes this is good advice since if I recall I was a few bulbs short. Not by much, I was able to make do. But it's always nice to have extras on hand. You can always use those bulbs in other games, or try different bulbs in different areas. The extra bulbs also help if you're looking to place an order for a new game so you can mess around with color schemes and what not.

Congrats on the new game. Great game to add your own mods to. You can get really creative.

God damn it, just when I thought I was done throwing money at my JP.

+1 for Great Plains. They are a great place to buy any type of electronics for board repair.

Yeah if anyone has any extra blue slings plastics, I would be interested. The one I bought only came with the orange ones.

I almost had a blue set, but the vendor only had one blue sling plastic at the TPF (I think it was the left one).

Are you using LEDs or the normal incandescent bulbs?

I had a similar issue as well. On my game the target is lined up with the metal bracket, so the plastic target itself is just pushing on the metal and not making a connection with the contact. Sometimes it's a simple as adjusting the target to the right or left.

I have a question about mirrored blades that always puzzled me. If you have to lift the playfield, do you have to take the blades off? If not, do you run the risk of scratching them when lifting the playfield? I always thought the playfield was already really close to the inside cabinet wall so I wasn't sure if blades ever interfered.

And Chad confirmed that the ColorDMD will work with code 6.00

Just beat me by about 100 million. My best is 1.113 billion on 6.00.

That is certainly an interesting question. I would try it out next time I play but my pop bumpers need some adjusting to be more sensitive.

Modfather, I get that you're a business and you need to make money and all, but what is the deal with your pterodactyls you are selling? I just bought the same exact product on Amazon for $11, compared to your $42 toys.

(Also your velociraptors are the same product from amazon with a hugely gouged price.)

https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/jurassic-park/products/jurassic-park-playfield-pteroductyl

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL1BHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_9

You should ask him for a refund and just buy some trees from Amazon for a lot less.

Anyone have a recommendation for a flipper rebuild kit? The Marco page here (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6306-20) lists that JP is one of the games compatible with that rebuild kit. But it only comes with two flippers instead of three. However, the if you do a search for "Jurassic Park flipper rebuild kit", it lists a few other products, one of which is here (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-1L2R). That kit includes 1 left, and 2 right flippers but the page doesn't include JP as a compatible game.

Does anyone know if I can just buy the kit with all three flippers? Or do you have to buy the kit with two flippers? If I have to buy the two flipper kit that says it's compatible with JP, where can you get just one additional rebuild for the top right flipper?

That is a hard sell considering ramps usually go for around $100 to $200. And most ramps at that price have decals and sometimes wiring pre-installed. So my advice would be not to do it as I don't see many people buying in at that price.

Just received this pin. It's the east dock sign, and will fit perfectly with the game. Plus the arrow spins!

https://popvultures.xyz/product/east-dock/

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I have also used the 1smd's and really like how they look, they look great in my FT. Have you ever tried the 2smd's? They are supposed to be a bit brighter but are listed as the same price. So next game I do I was contemplating using the 2smd's, but I'm not sure.

Good to know, thanks for the feedback. I will probably order a 100 pack of the 2smd's, and throw them into spots that are a bit darker than others.

Don’t forget a ColorDMD

Color DMD is ~$400, Pinsound board is also pretty pricey. Plus there is the motorized gate, updated T Rex, etc for a good chunk of change. But you asked for best and those are usually considered the “best”. But for the more budget conscious, there are still plenty of good mods. The Loop Combo scoop plastics are awesome, you could add LEDs, I’ve seen mirrored and regular artwork side blades, subwoofer, updated dinos and palm trees, toy Jeep. For JP the mods almost seem endless.

What is with the LEDs behind the translite? You're not serious with those colours are you?

Has anyone used the Titan star posts in JP? I've decided to just replace all the star posts since there aren't that many but have never used the ones from Titan.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=81

Thanks, great advice. Thinking about getting the blue posts and blue rubbers to go with the blue sling plastics.

Stated the tear down and cleaning process. Waiting on a few new parts to come in as well.

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JP Rubber Kit.jpg
Also, here is a photo of the rubber kit that I got from PRW (I saw someone comment earlier about what rubbers to get for JP). I have never had an issue with their sizing or quantities. In fact, they usually give you a few extra rubbers in their kits.

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Gotta include my shop helper

Those are just the standard orange sling plastics. I did order the blue ones though, I think they look better with all the other plastics.

I actually think they were just washed out, appearing as one tone. I think the top part is supposed to be a darker orange, but just became faded over time.

Anyone have any tumbler experience? I recently used one while cleaning my game and based off suggestions I used walnut as the media. However, once all the little screws and posts were done being polished, a bunch of that walnut got stuck in the screw heads and inside the posts, etc. Needless to say it was a PITA scraping all the walnut out of the screw heads. It actually took me a few hours to do all of them.

Any other recommendations for other media you can use? Anyone have success stories with other media?

I think we can all agree that the manual is terribly inaccurate when it comes to rubber for this game. I ordered a standard rubber kit, which I have come to find are usually a bit off anyway, but this time it was WAY off. After reinstalling the new rubber I had 11 extra rubbers left over, which is way more than normal.

I took detailed photos of my tear down as I worked, but of course I can’t exactly rely on the previous owner(s) putting the correct rubber in the correct areas.

Does anyone have a real list of rubbers for this game, and where they go exactly? I feel like the only rubbers I really know are correct are the flipper rubbers (and maybe the slings). Titan has a few kits listed on their website, but even those differ from each other slightly.

A detailed “map” would be awesome if anyone has one.

Thanks, that’s the one I was considering out of all of the Titan kits.

Has anyone experienced an issue with the game kicking out too many balls? When Tri-Ball starts, the game kicks out 4 balls, instead of just 3. But when you start raptor 2 ball, it kicks out only the appropriate 2 balls. And on Tri-Ball restart, it kicks out the appropriate 2 balls as well. So I'm not sure why at the start of Tri-Ball it kicks out 4.

When the game kicks out 4 balls and you keep those in play for a bit, then drain 2 balls, the game thinks the multiball is over and you're left in regular play but with 2 balls.

All trough switches are good in switch test, and it handles the other multiball modes just fine. So I'm just not sure why it wants to kick out 4 balls instead of just 3 during Tri-Ball.

I checked that thinking that could be the case, but it is functioning as normal. It releases the balls one at a time.

Much appreciated. Sounds like the type of issue I'm having. I will place an order for the new switch tomorrow.

Those Mod Father mods are a fucking rip off. Sorry, but they just are. He's charging over $40 for the Pteranodon "mod", but on Amazon you can get them for $9.

https://www.amazon.com/Papo-The-Dinosaur-Figure-Pteranodon/dp/B000GL1BHO/ref=sr_1_5

And the Jeep on Amazon is only $23, as opposed to his $42 Jeep on his website, or $68 with the lights.

https://www.amazon.com/Jada-24038-W1-Jurassic-World-Wrangler/dp/B00WTMWBI6/ref=sr_1_16

Seriously, you gotta be a sucker to buy these kinds of "mods" from him.

This also happened to me and it looked like cold solder. But after reflowing it was working great.

Just finished a deep cleaning and minor restoration on my playfield. I decided to add a few extra items, like palm trees, Jeep, pteranodons, raptor, Titan rubbers, and Comet LEDs. I know some people either like or hate some of those “mods”, but for now I’m enjoying the added dimension. And if for any reason I, or the next owner, wants to remove any of them it’s as easy as unscrewing a nut.

I’m still wanting to backlight the “when dinos rules the earth” and backdrop plastics, but that will be at a later time.

It was also my first time flame polishing a plastic ramp and I was very pleased with how the ramp and subway turned out. Pretty much came out crystal clear.

Here are some before, during, and after pictures.

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Damn, I take a PB&J to work most days and still can't afford the ColorDMD

Anyone have a link to the power switch to this game? A piece of plastic broke on mine and so it makes turning the game on and off a bit more difficult.

The existing switch on my game is similar to this one, but I'm not sure if it would work as a replacement on JP.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5640-10932-00

I'm wondering if the rocker switch would fit in place of it. If I remember correctly, there is a circular cutout underneath the game, so I'm just wondering if the rocker is a viable replacement.

Yes, no worries there.

Hey Pete, I was having a similar issue and it turned out the two leads on the 3rd trough switch were touching, metal on metal. So I simply separated those and it started working perfectly again. Sometimes it’s just as easy as that. I’m not sure if your issue is the same, but that’s something to look into just to make sure that’s not causing the problem.

Also, make sure the balls themselves are actuating the switch. You can hit each switch by hand, but using the actual ball will show if the switch is positioned correctly for the ball to hit it. I would recommend emptying the tough, going into switch test mode, and letting one ball roll the entire length of the trough. Then see if the ball is actually triggering all 6 trough switches.

Have you also tested all of the diodes on each switch?

I put my Jeep above the ramp diverter. Kind of hides the diverter so it’s like ball changes direction by magic

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God damn, I want to pull the trigger on that right now. Are these in limited supply? I don’t know if I’m currently in a position to buy these, but possibly after the new year.

Hey JP owners, my T-rex was acting up during diagnostics after powering on and wouldn't pick up the ball during play. While troubleshooting, I found that one of the jaw assembly pieces broke, specifically part #535-6640-00. This is the part that connects the coil plunger to the jaw, which makes the jaw move up and down. It looks like there is supposed to be a small "tab" at the top of the link to "hook" into the jaw frame, but that's the part that broke on mine. I've included a photo of my broken link, and a stock photo of a new link with a more pronounced "tab".

So my question is, does the link just "hook" into the jaw without any other way to secure it? It just sort of rests in a hole in the jaw frame? I just want to make sure that I didn't lose any other small parts or screws when the link broke and fell.

Link.png

Stock Link.jpg

Has anyone tried to hook up trough lighting to their JP? I bought a trough kit from Comet, but when I try to connect it to the GI, it blows a fuse and all the bottom half GI go out.

I’ve done trough lighting on NGG in the same way and that game works fine, so I wonder if there’s just something different about the Data East games.

So has anyone had success installing trough lighting?

Do you remember how you supplied it with power?

Hmm, I wonder then why the fuse is blowing for me when I do that on my game…?