What color did you use?
Bob C
Quoted from Pinballocks:I replaced the bulb condoms with these from Comet. They look like torches when lit.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htmDSCN0590.JPG 189 KB
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What color did you use?
Bob C
Quoted from Pinballocks:I replaced the bulb condoms with these from Comet. They look like torches when lit.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htmDSCN0590.JPG 189 KB
Cliffy puts a microswitch behind the coin return buttons on his pins so he can add credits for free without losing the extra sounds on pins
Ug...I'm guessing there would be no way to retro fit for fire pots at each KED location and I'd have to buy another if I wanted it
But might be too flashy and detract from the T-rex?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Ive heard its very worth it. I would love a video to prove it before I spend the dough.
FF on mine made a huge difference in what you could hear
I got so used to the little buzz on mine while in attract mode it wouldn't be the same without it LOL!
Great idea on covering up that ramp fix
Have you guys seen the video on fixing ramps with Bondic BTW?
Quoted from winteriscoming:I'll be curious to read reviews on the quality of those reproduced plastics.
Are they screen printed? If not. I don't like having to pay as much or more than CPR charges for screen printed plastics, and CPR had JP plastics listed as acquired for a potential run at some point in the future.
Edit: That's not a full set. They don't have the blue slings, and am I correct that I'm not seeing the upper left corner plastic? That one's actually broken on my game so this set won't work for me if not included.
Here's a pic of what I think is the full set: http://mad-amusements.com/img/p/1378-1910-thickbox.jpg
Quoted from winteriscoming:I'll be curious to read reviews on the quality of those reproduced plastics.
Are they screen printed? If not. I don't like having to pay as much or more than CPR charges for screen printed plastics, and CPR had JP plastics listed as acquired for a potential run at some point in the future.
Edit: That's not a full set. They don't have the blue slings, and am I correct that I'm not seeing the upper left corner plastic? That one's actually broken on my game so this set won't work for me if not included.
Here's a pic of what I think is the full set: http://mad-amusements.com/img/p/1378-1910-thickbox.jpg
Hmmm... I just bought their set last night. They have been pretty good about communicating. I emailed them about those possible missing plastics and will let you know what they say.
"Fudge"! I just checked and those plastics are already shipped. $200 to the USA...
I guess I'll refuse delivery / ask for a refund.
Unless somebody here wants them at a discount from me?
I've gotten speaker panels and decals from them and they were fine.
I didn't expect crappy plastics : (
From what I've read about making your own plastics, it would have just been a matter of touching up the scans using a computer. Bummer.
BobC
Quoted from Endprodukt:Graphics are good that they used. It's the way they're printed.
I guess I'll contact them and see if I can return them
: (
Quoted from Endprodukt:You didn't touch them do you have every right to return them. I hope they'll let me return them after removing some of the protective film.
I don't see how you are supposed to know if they are good quality or match your existing plastics otherwise
You can always dispute the charges through paypal, your credit card company, bank etc...
Their web page did not say the set was incomplete or might not match original plastics due to a different printing process
Does anybody have experience with just not signing for a package sent via ups?
The shipping was expensive (39 euros)... I'd hate to pay double shipping to return it.
Doesn't ups just send it back to the shipper if i refuse to sign / refuse to accept the package?
Thanks!
Quoted from winteriscoming:It would be a jerk move, but you could dispute through PayPal as a forgery. I bet these aren't licensed, so you'd likely have a legitimate claim going that route, but I think you have to provide them photographic proof that you've destroyed them.A less nefarious method would be to contact the store and let them know your concerns and that you don't want to have to pay for return shipping. Their site clearly says "Reproduction, Top Quality!" in the description, so their claim is that they are high quality, which is subjective. I think you'd have a claim based on quality alone if you don't agree that they're "top quality". If the seller won't eat return shipping costs, you might be able to raise that concern with PayPal or Credit Card company, etc.
Hopefully it'll work out where I don't lose too much money. Only the shipping one way = $43 US : (
Atleast they agreed to let me return it. I once bought an expensive eagle topper from bestofpinball.de for JD. It was a horribly thin flimsey and badly done shell that litterally must had also been somebody's first experience with a can of spray paint. Those folks flat out refused to let me return the item. I ended up sending photos of the POS to my credit card company...
Pinballcompany has been really nice in the past and even gave me a free item (!), with the only issue being language barriers on both sides.
I'm fairly certain that if I refuse to accept the delivery / sign for it that UPS will return it to the vendor at no additional charge to either of us?
I'll ask them if that's what I should do.
Thanks!
Bob C
Quoted from winteriscoming:I know you don't like having "derpy" stuff in your game, so why consider decals that have cheezy dino silhouettes and the same tree cut and paste all over it? The sunset hills don't even go with the image running along the back of the pf, which is isn't a sunset scene.
For what it's worth pinballcenter has Congo blades that would look good on JP
But then again they still want me to pay expensive shipping both ways ($43 each way) if I return their = missing 4 pieces, improperly printed / will not match originals, and bootleg JP plastics "set"...
Quoted from woody24:If they don't have an official license.
Stern owns the Data East rights, I doubt they would have approved crap-tastic plastics
Anyways, the box has arrived and I'll look at them and decide how to proceed
Quoted from Endprodukt:Judging by what is sold as "licensed" I don't think the copyright owners care too much about quality (wms and stern).
Also we have pretty strict copyright laws in Germany. Selling copyrighted material without license could pretty much mean closing your shop.
Also, i got offered to talk to Stern about a production run of plastics. As long as money flows, they don't care too much I'd say.
The Bally / Williams items made or approved by Planetary, the aftermarket parts for various brands of pins you can buy on Marco, or PBR Gottlieb products tend to be very good quality in my opinion. Not not to mention places like CPR, or the folks (I can't remember who is now the official people) who make repro B/W ramps tend to do outstanding jobs too. Maybe we just have a confusion about what licensed means?
I do believe Stern does care about quality. Folks can correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought some of the wait for the 6.0 JP ROMs was review / approval by Stern?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:OK, crickets. Lets stir up some interest in this club...
So this sweet paddock sign...Ive been looking at that ugly stickered box thats tells you when to shoot the trex. I have been wondering WHY its on such a rediculous angle thats hard to read. Why didnt they put it over the lane? I am thinking maybe one of these signs would be sweet in place of that box, AND over the lane. You could mount the spot to the back of it. I would just route the light to the saucer then and when the saucer flashes I think it would be obvious enough to shoot the trex.
Thoughts?
Looks great!
Quoted from goatdan:Wrong. Both were on the original sheets. Blue is what the factory put on usually, orange was in the goodie bag as the replacement. Both are legit.
So as your slings broke you'd end up with mismatched colors? Sounds like more of a baddie bag than a goodie bag...
I found a lot of mods have poor instructions or things that don't fit right...
I never had an external woofer, but after many years of the stock speakers I did find the FF to be an improvement and I can hear words and sounds and instruments I never heard before. I do find that it's important to get the back box volume right and its different for different pins. I think FF are good if you move your pins around a lot and don't have room for an external woofer under you pin (I have boxes off mods and parts)
The tape is for preventing your Playfield glass from rattling, but unless you put in a 10 or 12 inch woofer in a pin its not needed. Odd it was included.
"Sounds" like you should go back to the Polk, but the FF back box speakers should be the 2 way type, so I'm not sure why you aren't getting your treble. Are the back box speakers turned ask the way up with the supplied volume control?
Both PP and FF have good support if you email them
Quoted from woody24:Flipper Fidelity REVIEW:
Just installed Flipper Fidelity speakers into my JP. And honestly, I don't think it was worth it. I've had a Polk external Sub connected to it for almost as long as I've had it, and that made a world of difference. Adding these FF Speakers did not.
While the back box speakers are probably better sounding and allow for a wider range of frequencies, I think it actually hurts it. The voices are now deeper, and have less treble. So it kinda sounds like there's something obstructing the sound. Like holding a towel over them. And with the external Sub, and the upgraded cabinet sub, the more bassier sounds coming from the backbox are just not needed.
And the quality of the stock sounds just aren't good enough to sound any better.
So if you don't have an external sub, get one instead of upgrading all the speakers. If you've already got an external sub, just stick with that.
Also, while the installation went smooth, the instructions could be a little better. A few points are missed. It doesn't mention that the included spacers are used for the backbox speakers. Something people can figure out, but also forget because it doesn't tell you to grab them. And how to exactly connect which wires to what for the volume control. Wasn't sure which end goes to speakers and which end goes to power, and if it doesn't matter, it should probably say so. And also what the included roll of thin tape was used for. I didn't even use that because it made no mention of it. Also says that for the sub to connect the negative, but then can either be connected to the High or Low positive. Would like to know if the results are exactly the same, or if one makes it sound different than the other.
I think maybe Matt at Back Alley Creations is making a Trex too?
Must have been posted on Pinside as it's not on the web site
Quoted from mbabischkin:Hi All,
New to Pinside and didn't realize there was a JP specific group when I made my "help" post yesterday, I'd drop the link to the post here but since I'm a new member Pinside won't let me post links, even when they're internal to the site....
We've had our JP for a good 13 years, but it hasn't worked reliably for a good 7 years. In all honestly it was fear that we'd fried a board that kept me from digging in to figure out the problems we'd been seeing until about two weeks ago.
Thanks to some old posts here on Pinside I'm pretty sure that the PPB board is a key piece of the problems on the JP - but the coil that drives the Super VUK coil is fried as well - it was causing the f5 fuse on the PPB to blow in a pretty dramatic fashion. The coil is clearly the cause of that problem as the fuse stopped blowing when I removed the coil. I've got the coil and the diode to replace it - but we can't figure out how to disassemble the plunger bits on the existing coil and transfer them to the new coil.
And of course, having to frequently replace the F5 fuse in the course of troubleshooting wore out the F5 fuse holder on the PPB, so then the question is - replace the fuse holder (and the other two that are fatigued) or just say screw it and replace the entire board with one that is less than 23 years old...
Any help with the coil would be greatly appreciated because my next option is to take all the bits over to a local game room place and plead stupidity...
Where are you located?
You should be able to use more than 1 pin with an external woofer if you use a mixer
I think Pinnovators sells a mixer
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:Note sure if this is a technically a mod but we now have a cool alternative Jurassic Park translite available:
http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-rex-alternative-pinball-translite/There will also be a 3D Jurassic Park translite, same image as this 2D, available in the near future. They are a lot more expensive to produce however.
Pete
Retro Refurbs
Nice!
Quoted from Lonzo:Figures, after I buy them from Germany.
I did a paypal dispute on those German ones after the seller refused a return
Only lost $40
Quoted from Spencer:My game is back up and running, still waiting for a few more items but can finally enjoy it!
I do have a question though, is it just me, or does this game have the worst reflection from the backglass and dmd, you have ever seen??
Its so bad I had to place a light directly above it, so I could remove the reflection and actually see the ball.
Or a dmd antiglare filter
Quoted from Spencer:For sure that's an easy fix but its the back glass glare as well, I cant believe how bad it is.
get anti reflective glass...pdi, invisi-glass, or planertary's product
Quoted from waspinat0r:Someone trade me your JP and me lub yoy long tim. (please get that reference.)
Wrong website...
I'm thinking about getting the color dmd "led" and also installing the 6.0 ROM set.
As the display ROM is modified in the 6.0 will the color dmd work correctly?
Like if the 6.0 has images that were never accessed or not at all in the factory ROMs... and thus were possibly not "colorized" for the color displays?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Before DMD, I would highly suggest a PinSound. It completely changes the game experience and makes it significantly better IMO.
Right now I'm struggling to LED pins, next year color dmds. I'm broke these days.
I've heard the JP pinsound on the internet and it sounded good.
But I advised a friend to get pinsound for a couple pins and it was probably the sound files but it didn't help.
He was bummed as it was a pricey thing ontop of it.
He had Flipper Fidelity in one pin and pinball pro in the other.
I have another friend with pinsound on LOTR and it sounds better but It doesn't seem to me the sound files they are using follow the action / modes as precisely as the original pin music, but I don't care for the pin music Stern used being electronic either though.
There are also some tech issues their repair guy attributes to the pinsound, but I'm skeptical.
I'm pretty happy with Flipperfidelity in JP right now.
Maybe some day I'll do pinsound with the full kit, but that's pretty pricey for me currently.
I would also like to experience it in person on a JP before spending that much.
That being said, what I did see/hear with Pinsound and JP posted here seemed amazing.
Thanks for the recommendation, I will take it seriously.
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