(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

7 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Coyohtay
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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (6 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (6 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (6 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5000 2 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

So, mid-way through ball 2 today, I hear something firing that shouldn't be. Put the ball in the scoop to start a mode and it shoots it right back at me. Get it cradled and pop open the coin door. Sure enough, left scoop is firing. However, it is firing to the beat of the music (I think it was the end of Stampede). That mode finishes and things are seemingly back to normal until the knocker starts firing during the current mode.
I have unresolved issues with the flashers that are listed in parallel with knocker, left scoop and ball release. (Data East L/R deal). So, should I be looking at the Q39-46 transistors? I saw an old thread about unwanted coils firing but no replies or solutions.

Have you probed the switch drives and returns on CN8 and CN10? Verify the drive pins are all pulsing and verify the returns have voltage present as well. If that checks good reconnect CN8 and CN10, disconnect CN11, CN12, CN9 and then go back into active switch test and try every switch to see if they are shorting multiple switches when one is pressed.

1 week later
#5037 2 years ago

Enter multiball and watch if two balls are getting past the ball release at the same time, might need to rebuild the mechanism

#5039 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I checked that thinking that could be the case, but it is functioning as normal. It releases the balls one at a time.

Check this thread, it could be the switch at the end of the trough.


#5050 2 years ago

Quite a few things going on there. Start with the shooter lane switch, in diagnostics under active switches do any others trigger when you press that switch? The plunger will fire in game any time after the skill shot when that switch is pressed, something is triggering it like a bad diode or short somewhere.

Inconsistent plunger check wires soldered to the lugs of the coil are good, check all hardware holding the bracket is tight and replace the coil sleeve.

Does the trough switch not register because it isn’t being pressed all the way or do you have to move it up then back down? If it needs to be pressed further you can carefully adjust the roller to help get it to trigger. If its the latter replace the diode first then replace the switch if its still not working.

Auto fire skill shot happens when a target is registered, thats part of your switch issue.

Which dino targets complete themselves?

#5078 2 years ago
Quoted from cuebert:

Thanks for this, I have a long weekend coming up so I'm going to look into everything you mentioned (that can be checked without replacing anything, as I don't have the bits, but will inform if I need to acquire them).
Dino targets that are sometimes completing : Spitter (most common) and then the Herrerasaurus (?) //i know they auto collect on v5.13 between balls, but I don't think you're supposed to see it
Hopefully I have a good follow up post over the weekend!

Those targets are on separate rows and columns so do a physical inspection of the wiring to them, the spitter targets wiring is close to the cabinet edge and could have been damaged or pulled from lowering the playfield at some point. Put your multimeter in continuity test and check if the switch is closed or shorted somehow on all three of them and try the same for the herrera as well. Does you machine have the terminal strips with the diodes remotely mounted for the herrera switches or are the diodes on the switches? Lots of vibration in that area so look for broken or poor contact of the diodes on switches. I’d recommend getting a dozen or so 1N4004 diodes and swap any on targets that pass a continuity check but still behave odd.

#5085 2 years ago

Right switch should have white with yellow stripe and left switch white with orange stripe wire going to it, what does yours have?

#5110 2 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Mine are backwards.

Pretty sure the wiring is long enough to accidentally allow the switches to be located in the wrong spots. Carefully unbundle the wires, then just unscrew the switches and move them to the right spots.

#5114 2 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I just desoldered and resoldered. All good with that now.
Next issue that has reared its ugly head is the trough. At times it doesn’t detect the end of ball when it drains, then after a minute or so ball search kicks in and it fires out another ball. Is this just a bad switch or an opto?

Does it not detect end of ball after you had a multiball during that ball? The switch at the end of the trough that detects when a ball is above the solenoid would be the cause of that, they tend to start getting intermittent when multiball hapens. If its just during normal play then trough switch #1 would be suspect, its the one on the left.

#5122 2 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Now that you mention it, I think it mainly happens during multiball. I’m out and about today until 8-9pm, at which point I’ll try determine exactly when it happens. Thanks!
If it is during multiball, do I just replace the switch with a new one?

I'd replace it, the original switch is currently not available https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00 but this one is verified as a working substitute with just a slight adjustment to the wire https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5101-00
Edit: PBL has the switch https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-ball-trough-microswitch.html
Also be sure to grab a new diode for it https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004

Here is a video that covers whats happening

#5169 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Hey guys trying to fix a switch on my JP. The left out lane switch is not working. No response in switch test. There is a wire that had come loose which I soldered back on but still nothing. The right outlane has two wires to it, I don’t see any other wires for the left?
Can someone confirm this wiring is correct before I order a new switch?
[quoted image]

Wiring is correct, only one wire as its the last switch in its column. Check the switch with a multimeter first, if it passes continuity test replace the diode.

#5183 2 years ago

Move the wire bundle above it up, looks like its pressing down on the plastic guard and slowing the ball down in that area.

#5185 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Noticing a strange issue, and wondering if any of you have had it:
Once in awhile, after the game is turned on and boots, sound/music doesn't work during the first ball. It corrects itself at ball number 2.
Running Rev6.00.
Anyone have this?

Do you hear a random trex roar before this happens? If you do its from the sound board resetting, repinning CN2 should fix it.

#5197 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Do you mean reflowing the solder on the connector?

You can start there but typically the wire side connector is the culprit in this problem, both should be replaced. Doesn’t hurt to try reflowing the connector to see if it improves at all first.

#5214 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Guys, my JP has a wired problem. Sometimes the right flipper does not work.
It stops working for several seconds (top right flipper is fine) and then it works again.
Any idea how to check on it?
Thank you.

Have you looked at the flipper switch inside the cabinet? Contacts could be dirty/missing/poorly adjusted. Try running a business card though the points on the switch to clean them if they don't appear to have any issues.

#5218 2 years ago

I am doubting the coil is bad, check the resistance of it first with your multimeter. In your video it looks like the EOS switch may be open, check and adjust it so its closed and retest.

#5228 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Guys. Fixed the right flipper. You guys are rock. It was the EOS problem. I tried to bend it a little bit and now works perfect.

Excellent, just double check that the red plastic cap is pushing the EOS open when the flipper is pressed and not catching on the leaf when released.

#5251 2 years ago

Nice, hope to see he'll have more of them ready soon!

1 week later
#5296 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Ive got stuff on order to clean up all my mod wiring, so excuse the mess in my cabinet. Will post more on that later.
Got the trough board all wired up. Working like a champ so far. I have an intermittent problem right now with the ball release mech that is unrelated. It feels gummed up towards the end of the shaft’s stroke when its fully into the coil. So its not pulling hard enough to release the balls on the first try. Hopefully its just dirty, maybe I need a new sleeve. Any one know what size that is? Dont have a manual...

545-5411-00 Coil sleeve - 1-3/4 x 1/2 inch


#5318 1 year ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Got everything address in my JP except for the ball kicker into the shooter lane. I replaced the switch and now it’s seeing the ball fine but takes 2-4 attempts to eject the ball into the shooter lane.
I’ve tried adjusting everything but I’m guessing there is a simple fix I’m missing?
Appreciate any insight, last thing to have it working 100%!

Have you replaced the coil sleeve yet? What steps have you done so far?

#5328 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

New switch installed, this issue is still not resolved.
The issue still seems to be the ball release mechanism. My game is level side to side, and I even increased my angle to see if that would help. Balls are still getting hung up for some reason right at the edge of the ball trough rail where it meets the upkicker assembly. The release coil doesnt seem to be able to pull hard enough to release a ball. This is a brand new coil, and the mech isnt dirty. If I do it by hand, it still has trouble, shown in this video. Everything is tight. Is my coil on backwards or something?
Can any one answer me these questions:
Is there any reason for the upkicker to fire if there is no ball in it? Does it fire in a sequence with the release mechanism or does the game HAVE to see a ball there? My game seems to fire the upkicker over and over when the ball is hung up out of the release.
Which way does your ball release coil face?
A short video of me trying by hand to release balls

First thought on watching that video is coil stop is wrong or coil sleeve is wrong. Everything else appears correct.

#5338 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Coil sleeve came with the coil from marco. The stop....hmmm.
I also got a recommendation to sand the trough ball rails in case of pitting/corrosion.
Super frustrating. I wont have time to work on this now until April. Any tips are very much appreciated.


Was this the coil you purchased? The sleeve that should be in that location is 545-5031-00


#5340 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Get out! Why would marco do this to me?
Guess I should have a manual...

That coil is used in many different applications with different sleeves. You can download a PDF copy of the manual from here https://www.ipdb.org/files/1343/Data_East_1993_Jurassic_Park_Manual.pdf

#5358 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I need to video it to determine and I've not had a chance to test by hand (just played 3-4 games since I've had it setup). It looks like it might be coming out of the loop at an odd angle and just hitting the side that leads up to the dock/free ball and bouncing off that. I'll collect some more data today and post.

Adjust your top right flipper all the way back against the metal rail, if the ball contacts the rubber at the tip of the bat it will deflect it to the center drain. You can also adjust the metal ball guide above the flipper out if its hitting the top of the flipper bat. Properly set up that loop should cleanly return to the right flipper.

#5425 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody please tell me what this short black rubber bungie with the s-hooks is for exactly? Funny thing is that I didn't even notice the bright orange sticker until I posted this message, so know I'm thinking it is some sort of security mechanism for when you have the playfield fully lifted?

Correct, if you lift the playfield all the way up there would be an eyelet bolt on the bottom of the playfield that you would hook the bungee onto to keep it upright.

#5443 1 year ago
Quoted from edward472:

Major problems tonight.Turned on my machine to play and the right lower flipper was fluttering. So I turned off the machine checked my EOS switch. Soldered a wire on the coil that looked suspect. Still had the problem. Took out my multimeter to check the diode. I checked the left flipper coil first to check if my multimeter was set right. While testing.... my wife turned the machine on. Thought I needed more light!!! The left flipper coil locked on and blew the F3 fuse in the flipper board. Replaced the fuse and tried to go into diagnostics. Pressed the step button and the left flipper coil locked again and blew F3 again. So what kind of damage did I do? Where do I start to go about fixing the locked on left flipper coil and my fluttering right flipper?

On the flipper board start with diode 6, Q10 (TIP36) and Q9 (TIP32) if any of those have failed.

#5489 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

I still have the issue with my right flipper. I replaced the EOS. It works for few days and it has the same problem as before. While I raise the playfield and short the EOS, the flipper works. After I adjusted the EOS, it works for few days again. Is it possible the problem is on the flipper board? Thanks.

Try checking the flipper board header pins for cracks, sounds like an intermittent connection issue.

#5495 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

OK, so I purchased the “correct” sleeve, and it looks exactly like the ones thats already in there....
Im still having issues. The game still doesnt recognize that there is a ball in the trough vuk. It will leave a ball sitting there and think that a ball is missing and go into ball search during multiball.
The switch tests fine in diagnostics, AND I replaced the switch based on chadh recomendation that ut could be bad if it tests good.
What the fuq is wrong with this stupid machine? Im super pissed right now. [quoted image]

Did you put a new diode on the switch? What way does the band face? Do all trough switches report in active switch test with a ball sitting on them?

1 week later
#5617 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.[quoted image]

There is a clear plastic post that goes there

#5669 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I seem to be dominating the thread this morning - sorry, but lots on my mind.
A few pages back somebody mentioned the EnerGI Maestro. This was the first time I've ever heard of this, and after checking out the website I am very interested.
In helping me determine if I should purchase one or not, I was wondering if those of you who have installed one on JP can please comment regarding your overall thoughts, ease/difficulty of installation, satisfaction with your purchase, your settings, etc.

Its very easy to install, just a matter of swapping some connectors. Biggest advantage of this system is it doesn't need the relay for GI lighting so no more clicking during GI effects and that alone makes it worth the cost for home use in my opinion. I generally just turn the GI brightness down a little which is done through the programming buttons.

IMG_3452 (resized).JPGIMG_3455 (resized).JPG
#5674 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

So.... I was cleaning my JP playfield, lowered it and somehow sparks flew right as I was trying to seat it. Yes I know turn it off. Now, the trex AND the trough clear are not responding at all. During the trex diagnostic nothing happens and I get an error for trex switches. When I put it in DX mode the switches register. Any ideas where to start??

Start off with thoroughly inspecting the area that made contact, look for pinched, cut, broken wires and exposed terminals bent and contacting things they should not be.

Check your shaker motor board for blown fuses.

Check Q45 on the CPU board, Q37 upstream and the resistor array in between the two

1 month later
#6248 1 year ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

So I have been part of the club for a month or so and I have two tweaks that I can’t figure out.
1. The ball get stuck behind trex when it slowly rolls back from the right (picture is of the post to see if it is the right size).
2. When riding the right ramp it flies around and jumps off of the ramp after the divider 20% of the time. Picture shown over the top of the pop bumper, what should go there?
Game is level.

Take the screw out of the spacer over the pop bumper, that should just be a spacer there holding the rail up. Your T rex area looks correct, I would try to loosen it slightly and push the sleeve towards the back of the machine to test to see if moving it prevents the ball from hanging up there.

1 month later
#6669 1 year ago

For those having issues with the 6 ball multiball searching and attempting to feed a ball after all have already been fed onto the playfield replace your diode on the end of the trough switch. I believe the issue happens when 5 balls are rapidly fed not every one gets registered by the switch because of diode or switch issues. So the game thinks only 4 of 5 have fed and attempts to keep feeding a 5th ball that already left unregistered. Hope this helps

#6674 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Most of us have no diodes because we have the new trough board. At least myself and one other guy with the issue have this board.

Quoted from newovad:

I was assuming he was talking about the mini switch for the VUK. I checked it and looks like it will be a PITA to switch it out. I think I'll wait this one out.

Correct, the switch on the right just above the solenoid to kick the ball up into the lane, shows as trough #7

#6695 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

It's been over 2 years and now I've decided to get JP up and running. I'm missing my pop bumpers wiring....can someone please share a few photos?

Best I have at the moment

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