Just joined the club! Got a nice egg on mind when I bought it.

Anybody know who sells the light domes on the top of the back box?

Figures, thanks. One is broken but all the pieces are still there so it looks fine.

Anyone else have a problem with a dent in the trough preventing the ball from rolling into the last trough switch? I often have to shake the machine after draining to register that the ball is over. Any ideas for fixing this?
1395950183504.jpg

Two things. Filing the dents out of the trough didn't seem to help, so wtf? Now I'm going to try putting washers between the playfield and trough to increase the slope and hope extra gravity helps.

Second. I know a problem is that control room shots can bounce over the switch. Has anyone tried putting a little foam pad on the bottom of that trough to help stop the bouncing? Any other tips for preventing that?

Ohhhhh. OK then.

This is my problem.

IMAG0572.jpg

You can see the ball isn't rolling all the way onto the switch.

Replacing the switch fixed it? Cool. I'll try that.

It doesn't seem to be adjustment because I have bent it up/down to no avail. Its really intermittent, not always a slow roller. You can't see in the picture but the arm is sitting on the micro switch, but the switch is not depressing.

When it rolls over it properly, it does click. It's as if the switch is providing too much resistance and the ball isn't heavy enough to depress it sometimes.

When operated manually, it /seems/ fine. When I got it the arm was bent so I tried straightening it like the others to fix it, but it didn't help. Then I saw the dent in the trough, so I filed that out and it still didn't help. I do not get missing ball errors, only drain recognition. I suppose if I left it like that and turned it off/on, it would give me a missing ball.

I've got to order some other stuff so I'll pick up a new switch too. Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll let you know how it goes.

The switch works fine, when the ball rolls over it. If you look at the picture, you can see the ball isn't rolling all the way onto the switch. That's the problem.

My current theory is that the switch button itself (not the arm) is gummed up and providing too much resistance for a slow rolling ball to depress it. If I open the coin door, and bump the ball onto the arm where it's supposed to lay, the switch depresses and activates fine. If I press the arm myself with my finger, it <i>seeems</i> to work fine.

Ok, total DE noob question here... The rail system on this machine really sucks compared to Williams of the same era. Do you really have to completely lift the back end of the PF to put it back into the cabinet?

I cracked the plastic above the shooter lane last time trying to put it back in and that told me I must be doing something wrong.

That's what I was thinking after putting it next to my BSD. Same year of mfr and a world of difference.

So I'm not doing it the hard way? Don't try pushing harder, just be more careful lifting?

What am I missing here?

IMAG0589.jpg

Extended adjustments?

There was someone on here offering up his actual welding skills for stuff like this. Maybe that's a good option?

Few things. First, I learned that the playfield is designed to be opened like a System 11 where you don't slide it over that ridge, it just pivots so that the back side is very near the bottom of the cabinet. That's how you're able to use the bungie cord in the bottom of the cabinet to hold it up. Now, that being said, could someone please help me with the type of eyebolt that's supposed to be in the back of the playfield for this purpose? Mine is missing. This is actually huge for me because my ceiling is too short to pull it out and lift it like I was doing before!

Next, the outlane post on the right side. Is it supposed to have a rubber ring on it? Mine is just a bare metal post that has now been knocked so much it's a little loose in the hole. I can only imagine that's only going to get worse. I think I may swap my post out with one that I can put a rubber ring on just to save that hole from getting destroyed.

It's currently required, but ChadH is fixing that in the new code that he will be releasing not nearly soon enough.

Perfect, thank you.

lol, yes you did. very impressive.

Btw, I love your little computer/bunker/shed mods!

As soon as I can fit it into my budget. Wife has me on a tight leash for a while.

This one?

IMAG0693.jpg

Btw, way back in this thread I posted about the trough issues I was having with the ball not depressing the switch. Replacing the switch fixed it.

Sorry to hear that. Mine was in mostly good health when I got it.

I believe that board would be the "Special Coil" board seen on page 49 of the manual. It drives the thumpers, slings and shaker.

Pretty sure upper loop combos give hold bonus and hold raptor pit value or something.

That's really the big one. The rest is preferences or I don't know about it yet.

If nobody gets to it before me I'll take pics for you next time I have it open.

I'm trying to get a sub from my brother to try before I buy, but I think it'd be great!

Can't you get 6.3V LED strips and just connect them to the GI?

2. Make sure your flipper button/switch isn't sticking and is adjusted properly.
4. Make sure the switch arm is adjusted properly. Does it work in test? Make sure the diode isn't bad or broken.

nice pickup. congrats.

They look good! But here's a tip for you and all other card makers: don't simply copy and paste the text from the original instruction cards. It's not always correct. In this case , the dual jackpot part.

You only have to score one of the two jackpots to start chaos. For super jackpots, I'm not even sure if they're both lit, I don't get there often enough to know!

Between the pic you posted and the pic on Mantis' website, it looks like there's two possible locations that they were installed. It also looks like they were just screwed in from the bottom, which is apparently why they always just ripped off. Thanks Russ for posting that link, I don't think mine has brackets either.

Derp. Ill check mine tonight.

Couple regular old screws in mine.

IMAG1110.jpg

I agree that they don't seem to be facing the same direction, and I can see why this would be considered wrong. I would think they'd sit better in the channel if they were the other way. The t-nut you see there is being used by the lane guide screw, so unless that's a dual purpose screw, I don't think it's meant for this. Those screws are pretty small. Then again, perhaps that's why they always break off. FWIW, I think I'm actually missing that t-nut on the other side, and this may be why. Would love to see how everyone else's games are installed.

lol. That's the stance I'm taking on the position of mine as well.

Awesome, thanks!

definitely looks like your eos switch leaf is broken. You could hold that flipper up?

White plastic (maybe vinyl or something? ) plunger tip is correct.

I remember someone saying recently that they bought a game from someone who cuts off all their EOS switches so they get more power out of the flippers. "Just don't hold the button down too long it you'll fry the coil." Smh.

Have the schematics handy? I might be able to get a pic, but not until tonight.

Sweet! Perfect fit, too!

It shouldn't do that.

everybody! I've worked on it quite a bit but still having issues.

The lane guide screws are standard #6/32 washer head screws. The far right one might longer than the other two to accommodate the prop bracket and a nut, so check the lengths. Probably 2-2 1/2".

The star posts screws are probably something like this for the one holding the ramp:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2076

and this for the one not holding the ramp:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2077

but you'll have to check if it's a machine screw (into a t-nut under the playfield) or a wood screw (directly into the playfield). If it's a wood screw, probably this:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2078

Check all your measurements from other existing screws because there are several different sizes. Both in length and thickness.

Again, probably a 6 or an 8:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=226

I made them match. I also thought it was weird that they were different.

It's a sort of random video mode, and you get something like 3m points.

There is no indication, though I believe ChadH is fixing that.

Wow, that looks excellent!

T-Rex, raptors, egg, gate, scoop signs.... show off!

I've got... um... Cliffy's...

Intentionally draining during SF is a good idea, because it launches the balls back into the pops.

Have you looked at the switch matrix? Is that a whole column/row? Could be a connector at the board.

Unfortunately, yes. Unless it's "skillfully" trapped under an upper flipper. You have to do what you can to either free the trapped ball, or trap up so the game can be opened and they can be unstuck. Sorry to be a killjoy.

Couple options. To use the bungee cord, lift it just like a single pivot game. Do you have the eye bolt at the bottom right of the pf by the flasher bulb? That's where the bungee should hook onto.

You can also lift and pull it out, then rest the feet on the lock down receiver like more modern games. If you really have the room, you can do that, pull it all the way out and raise it to lean against the backbox. If you pull it out like this, be careful pushing it back in, as the rear "bump" on the rails is fairly high. You may have to lift it over to get it back into position.

probably the corrugate sheath that covers the harness going into the back box.

They didn't use good enough screws, so they often broke off. They actually used the lane guide screws!

Mine got turned sideways and rescrewed down. Haven't gotten around to getting the nice new Mantis ones yet.

Think you're broke now, wait til you buy all the sweet mods!

Lit back panel, lit t-rex saucer, dinos, trees, etc

Yeah, and remove about $150 if you don't have the topper.

Think maybe you just need a smaller rubber? The more it stretches, the thinner it gets.

Unfortunately, I think that's very common. Titan was trying to compile that sort of thing and I think incentivizing in some way. Keep your eye out there.

I'm going to try very hard to remember that. Thank you!

Smart missile would give you ALL the CHAOS letters if you needed them, as long as you've gotten the first Jackpot. If you're draining out of multiball after getting the Jackpot, hit the SM every time for Chaos mb.

Ignore the powershed if you're going for modes. Going through an inlane lights the control room temporarily, so just Ramp > Control Room > repeat. I've gotten to two System Failures in the same game that way. Unfortunately, you're still nothing without Super Jackpots. I think that game only ended around 500m because I didn't get the SJs.

By the way. After the first System Failure, the inlanes no long light the CR, so you have to use the Shed.

I don't think that's right. Left inlane lights dock and CR and right inlane lights Advance X and CR.

Yes, this is all you need to do.

Plain ol alligator clips to the cabinet sub on one end, speaker wire input to a powered sub on the other.

*STOMP* * STOMP* *ROAR*

Give Bondic a try: www.notaglue.com - can also get on amazon.

Happens to me all the time. Regular Multiball music too. Figured it was just a bug. Starting another mode also "fixes" it.

Definitely not a myth. Are you sure it's not just light bleeding in from the spitter bulbs themselves? You sure it's the C that's ghosting?

huh.... I'd look around very closely to make sure something didn't short. That sounds very weird.

Try a different bulb in the other insert. something like a flex bulb can help direct the light so you get less bleeding.

http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-super-flex

Pretty cool! I did something similar by daisy chaining the scoop and light on top of the "box." I like how you added the raptor, however, in the "Feed T-Rex" mode, the raptor will be flashing along with the scoop and it's not a valid shot there, right?

Not a big deal since Tri-ball is obviously more common and important!

If you hit that target head on, say goodbye. Obviously, it's worse if the target is larger than it should be.

1. I believe it's this post: 02-3905 Mini Post. That's assuming it screws into the playfield itself, not a hole that goes all the way through into a T-nut or something. Instead of installing a post on the left, I suggest putting a small rubber on the top of the lane guide itself. There was talk about this somewhere in this thread.

2. It should shoot it to the flipper (trying to cradle it out of the bunker is a good way to play that). Make sure all the mechanisms in there are screwed down nice and tight. Any movement down there is what will cause the large range of area it shoots out to.

3. It's the nature of pop bumpers to throw the ball where you don't want it to. That's really what they were designed for. Unfortunately, that's down the middle a lot. Only way to fix this is to get better at nudging and trying to save the ball. Chad's code would increase the ball save, which would help, but that's about it.

4. Most likely a bad trough switch #7. This is the switch all the way to the right, mounted on the side of the trough. See here:

5. That could be a bad switch in the T-Rex saucer activating when it shouldn't be. Maybe it just needs to be adjusted, maybe it's bad.

6. White vs Black rubbers is pretty much preference. The white rubbers are a little more bouncy. I usually just use what I think looks better on the machine.

1. Ouch. Search up removing broken post on here. I know it's been discussed (by vid1900 - maybe in his ultimate playfield restoration thread).

3. Don't be afraid to smack it. You aren't going to hurt it. If you smack too hard, you'll tilt, so smack a little less hard than that.
Don't count on Gary to answer anything about the code update. Chad has been completely silent about it for a reason. What that reason is, is only speculation.

5. The game is confused about the number of balls on the playfield because it thinks there are more or less in the trough than there really are. It's very common for all those trough switches to go bad. I deal with this same issue myself. Had both that #7 switch go bad as well as a couple of the other regular trough switches.

Unfortunately, he couldn't release it independently. The code is copyrighted. It's probably just in lawyer limbo. Maybe because Stern likely has a Jurassic World game coming.

It is a delicate process.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/13#post-1434757

Stern owns the code. Chad can't modify it without their permission. See here for related information.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wish-list-of-bugs-in-wmsbly-wpcwpc95-code-to-fix

Thanks Chad. Grabbing the code now! TFTC code too. Thanks for your work with this. Hope nothing happened to sour you on your work!

You can make a pretty pimped out JP at this point. Too bad it'll cost you almost $1,000 to do it.

Anybody have a used powerball laying around that they don't want?

The lower right should have an EOS as well.

<EDIT: It's been pointed out that this information is incorrect for this style of game, see other guys below for better info!>

Yeah, this is bad. Previous owner didn't know what they were doing. With it how it is, DO NOT CRADLE THE BALL. If you hold the flipper too long, you'll blow a fuse.

What's happening now is that the EOS is being bypassed (obviously). The EOS switch tells the game to put the coil in to low power hold mode. As it is, you're pouring full power into the flipper all the time, and that's bad.

Desolder those wires and put your EOS back in line. Violet wire on the lug nearer the coil, brown on the further one.

What did you tape together to make it work?

It's perfectly fine to play, as long as you don't hold the flippers up.

Thank you for that lesson!

.

Yes! Do that before you do something dumb and look stupid like me!

I love the fact that the egg is worth shooting now. It's awesome!

4. When finishing TREX letters for award.

I assume you mean skill shot? I would consider the video mode to be the random dino crossing the screen for (now) 10M.

They're alts that shipped with the game.

Same thing started happening to me after a standard rebuild. Factory coils on mine.

Looks great, nice job!

My three center lights are color changing. I don't like them. One of these days I'll put green ones in there.