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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,391 posts
  • 473 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by evileye
  • Topic is favorited by 196 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (6 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)


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#15 6 years ago

Just joined the club! Got a nice egg on mind when I bought it.

Anybody know who sells the light domes on the top of the back box?

#17 6 years ago

Figures, thanks. One is broken but all the pieces are still there so it looks fine.

#35 6 years ago

Anyone else have a problem with a dent in the trough preventing the ball from rolling into the last trough switch? I often have to shake the machine after draining to register that the ball is over. Any ideas for fixing this?
1395950183504.jpg

#39 6 years ago

Two things. Filing the dents out of the trough didn't seem to help, so wtf? Now I'm going to try putting washers between the playfield and trough to increase the slope and hope extra gravity helps.

Second. I know a problem is that control room shots can bounce over the switch. Has anyone tried putting a little foam pad on the bottom of that trough to help stop the bouncing? Any other tips for preventing that?

#42 6 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

It doesn't bounce over...if it's not registering it's a bad switch/connection to switch.

Ohhhhh. OK then.

#44 6 years ago

This is my problem.

IMAG0572.jpg

You can see the ball isn't rolling all the way onto the switch.

#47 6 years ago

Replacing the switch fixed it? Cool. I'll try that.

#49 6 years ago

It doesn't seem to be adjustment because I have bent it up/down to no avail. Its really intermittent, not always a slow roller. You can't see in the picture but the arm is sitting on the micro switch, but the switch is not depressing.

#51 6 years ago

When it rolls over it properly, it does click. It's as if the switch is providing too much resistance and the ball isn't heavy enough to depress it sometimes.

#54 6 years ago

When operated manually, it /seems/ fine. When I got it the arm was bent so I tried straightening it like the others to fix it, but it didn't help. Then I saw the dent in the trough, so I filed that out and it still didn't help. I do not get missing ball errors, only drain recognition. I suppose if I left it like that and turned it off/on, it would give me a missing ball.

#58 6 years ago

I've got to order some other stuff so I'll pick up a new switch too. Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll let you know how it goes.

#60 6 years ago

The switch works fine, when the ball rolls over it. If you look at the picture, you can see the ball isn't rolling all the way onto the switch. That's the problem.

#62 6 years ago

My current theory is that the switch button itself (not the arm) is gummed up and providing too much resistance for a slow rolling ball to depress it. If I open the coin door, and bump the ball onto the arm where it's supposed to lay, the switch depresses and activates fine. If I press the arm myself with my finger, it <i>seeems</i> to work fine.

#71 6 years ago

Ok, total DE noob question here... The rail system on this machine really sucks compared to Williams of the same era. Do you really have to completely lift the back end of the PF to put it back into the cabinet?

#73 6 years ago

I cracked the plastic above the shooter lane last time trying to put it back in and that told me I must be doing something wrong.

#79 6 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

All new Sterns are like this as well. Drives me effin' crazy. I work on my ST or LotR I just get irritated then I go work on my Judge Dredd and it is like working on a Cadillac. Not Stern/DE bashing, I just wish they would have come up with a better solution.

That's what I was thinking after putting it next to my BSD. Same year of mfr and a world of difference.

So I'm not doing it the hard way? Don't try pushing harder, just be more careful lifting?

#83 6 years ago

What am I missing here?

IMAG0589.jpg
1 week later
#92 6 years ago

Extended adjustments?

#99 6 years ago
Quoted from harbngr:

Hey, I was wondering if anyone had an extra pair of raptor pit ball guides kicking around? both of mine are broken on the screw tab at the front. I tried some JB weld, but that didn't workout so well.
If no one has any, then the other option is going to have to try and fabricate a pair. Anyone have any experience with that? pretty sure I can do it, but any helpful pointers would be appreciated.

There was someone on here offering up his actual welding skills for stuff like this. Maybe that's a good option?

1 week later
#104 6 years ago

Few things. First, I learned that the playfield is designed to be opened like a System 11 where you don't slide it over that ridge, it just pivots so that the back side is very near the bottom of the cabinet. That's how you're able to use the bungie cord in the bottom of the cabinet to hold it up. Now, that being said, could someone please help me with the type of eyebolt that's supposed to be in the back of the playfield for this purpose? Mine is missing. This is actually huge for me because my ceiling is too short to pull it out and lift it like I was doing before!

Next, the outlane post on the right side. Is it supposed to have a rubber ring on it? Mine is just a bare metal post that has now been knocked so much it's a little loose in the hole. I can only imagine that's only going to get worse. I think I may swap my post out with one that I can put a rubber ring on just to save that hole from getting destroyed.

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Didn't I read there is an adjustment if you dont want T-rex to do the diagnostic every time you turn game on? or is it required.

It's currently required, but ChadH is fixing that in the new code that he will be releasing not nearly soon enough.

#106 6 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

It doesn't ship with a ring but you can put a 3/8 on there with a bit of stretching. The other outlane doesn't even have a post but you can put a 3/16 on the top post of the lane guide and it does a great job.

Perfect, thank you.

#110 6 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

No worries! I managed a pretty sweet outlane shake-out thanks to that 3/16 rubber! See 7:30 in this video:

lol, yes you did. very impressive.

Btw, I love your little computer/bunker/shed mods!

#112 6 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

They were an early prototype in the video. I've gone through a few revisions since then. You can buy them at http://www.loopcombo.com if you're interested.

As soon as I can fit it into my budget. Wife has me on a tight leash for a while.

1 month later
#132 6 years ago

This one?

IMAG0693.jpg
#133 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Good theory. Replace the switch.
See similar switch issue here:
» YouTube video

Btw, way back in this thread I posted about the trough issues I was having with the ball not depressing the switch. Replacing the switch fixed it.

#135 6 years ago

Sorry to hear that. Mine was in mostly good health when I got it.

I believe that board would be the "Special Coil" board seen on page 49 of the manual. It drives the thumpers, slings and shaker.

1 week later
#146 6 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

It clonks around the loop pretty good, it's not a smooth shape, something like HS2 for example, it's upper loop is very smooth, as is Whirlwind (which JP is highly modeled against). It is what it is, it's not an easy shot to make...and really, is it worth anything other than another chance at the paddock?

Pretty sure upper loop combos give hold bonus and hold raptor pit value or something.

4 weeks later
#161 6 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

New member of the JP club. Picked it up a few months ago, finally got it working. It needs some good cleaning. Fun game. My ? Is what do I need to get? I know cliffys for sure. Any other pointers?
Thanks in advance,
Bill

That's really the big one. The rest is preferences or I don't know about it yet.

3 weeks later
#167 6 years ago

If nobody gets to it before me I'll take pics for you next time I have it open.

I'm trying to get a sub from my brother to try before I buy, but I think it'd be great!

1 month later
#179 6 years ago
Quoted from JeffA:

And, wasn't sure how you would need to connect into 12V.

Can't you get 6.3V LED strips and just connect them to the GI?

Quoted from Edenecho:

2. Left flipper is "sticking" in cradle-position for a second or two after cradling.
4. Control Room switch does not work, as is a usual problem. Anyone here experienced and fixed that?

2. Make sure your flipper button/switch isn't sticking and is adjusted properly.
4. Make sure the switch arm is adjusted properly. Does it work in test? Make sure the diode isn't bad or broken.

1 month later
#202 6 years ago

nice pickup. congrats.

#210 6 years ago

They look good! But here's a tip for you and all other card makers: don't simply copy and paste the text from the original instruction cards. It's not always correct. In this case , the dual jackpot part.

#212 6 years ago

You only have to score one of the two jackpots to start chaos. For super jackpots, I'm not even sure if they're both lit, I don't get there often enough to know!

#238 6 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Ah, much better price then! I was probably going to continue to live without them at 40 for a pair...
I can't tell for sure from the under playfield pics, but are they secured with bolts coming down through the top of the pf to the bottom and nuts are on the bottom?
I just checked my pf and I don't see holes or threaded rods sticking through that would have secured supports had they been installed at the factory. I do see a few dimples around the area I think the supports are supposed to be, but no idea if they were for screwing in supports.

Between the pic you posted and the pic on Mantis' website, it looks like there's two possible locations that they were installed. It also looks like they were just screwed in from the bottom, which is apparently why they always just ripped off. Thanks Russ for posting that link, I don't think mine has brackets either.

#246 6 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

That pic on Mantis' site isn't JP, is it? The pcb looks different.
Also, looking more at the one I posted, I think it's one nut and one screw. When I was looking at my pf, I noticed the only threaded rod sticking through that seemed long enough to do anything with from underneath was coming down through a t-nut. It might be one of the outlane guide posts or something coming down through the t-nuts on either side. That makes me think they might be pretty secure on JP, even with stock ones, but would maybe have to be removed when removing top-side hardware and got discarded at some point.

Derp. Ill check mine tonight.

#247 6 years ago

Couple regular old screws in mine.

IMAG1110.jpg
#253 6 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm no expert, but I don't think yours are in the factory installed position. Yours is facing a different way and it's right next to the t-nut with the threaded rod coming through that it would have gone over and attached to with a nut, and there's a screw hole right on the bottom outer edge of the t-nut where the screw would go. If it works, it works. Wish mine had some when I paid a fortune for the game!

I agree that they don't seem to be facing the same direction, and I can see why this would be considered wrong. I would think they'd sit better in the channel if they were the other way. The t-nut you see there is being used by the lane guide screw, so unless that's a dual purpose screw, I don't think it's meant for this. Those screws are pretty small. Then again, perhaps that's why they always break off. FWIW, I think I'm actually missing that t-nut on the other side, and this may be why. Would love to see how everyone else's games are installed.

#257 6 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I haven't screwed up my game yet without them

lol. That's the stance I'm taking on the position of mine as well.

#262 6 years ago
Quoted from rviguet:

I just shopped my JP and my playfield supports were each connected using one of the screws from the in lanes that go through a T nut there was a nylock nut hold ing the support on the screw. There was a hex head wood screw in the other hole on each.

Awesome, thanks!

3 weeks later
#298 5 years ago

definitely looks like your eos switch leaf is broken. You could hold that flipper up?

#302 5 years ago

White plastic (maybe vinyl or something? ) plunger tip is correct.

#310 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Following my last post on the former page, where one of the leafs on the eos-switch is broken:
I am starting to rebuild my flippers, and while taking pre-operation photos, I see that on the lugs of the EOS switch there are the remains of two wires that have been cut.. does anybody else have this on theirs? Could someone be so kind and post some photos of their flipper assemblies?

I remember someone saying recently that they bought a game from someone who cuts off all their EOS switches so they get more power out of the flippers. "Just don't hold the button down too long it you'll fry the coil." Smh.

Have the schematics handy? I might be able to get a pic, but not until tonight.

#311 5 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

Lookie what I got from my parents for Christmas...

Sweet! Perfect fit, too!

2 weeks later
#316 5 years ago

It shouldn't do that.

3 weeks later
#349 5 years ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Anyone ever encountered an issue like this with the ball trough in JP? (See video) Notice how the balls don't move forward until the force of a draining ball pushes them. I've opened up the trough several times and can't find anything binding nor are there any divots in the trough. Maybe a code update would fix this
» YouTube video

everybody! I've worked on it quite a bit but still having issues.

#367 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

A quickie, as I managed to loose some screw and some need replacing, during my last semi-shopping:
Could anyone tell me the different screws/bolts and their model-number which are marked with Red, yellow and Pink in the attached image?
Cannot find anything in the manual about the slingshot screws, although im sure they are very common in pinball

The lane guide screws are standard #6/32 washer head screws. The far right one might longer than the other two to accommodate the prop bracket and a nut, so check the lengths. Probably 2-2 1/2".

The star posts screws are probably something like this for the one holding the ramp:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2076

and this for the one not holding the ramp:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2077

but you'll have to check if it's a machine screw (into a t-nut under the playfield) or a wood screw (directly into the playfield). If it's a wood screw, probably this:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2078

Check all your measurements from other existing screws because there are several different sizes. Both in length and thickness.

#373 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Thanks! I must take the blame for messing up the terms. In the red and pink circles, what i meant was the (nylock) nuts, not the screws. Just forgot that it was called nuts in english do you know size and type these..errr, nuts are?

Again, probably a 6 or an 8:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=226

1 month later
#431 5 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Thanks, I'm torn can't decide if I want to keep it blue or just make it match the others.

I made them match. I also thought it was weird that they were different.

2 weeks later
#472 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Can some one explain to me what the deal is with the raptor running across the screen mid ball and you have to pull the trigger a bunch of times to shoot it? Why does that happen and what is the reward for shooting it?

It's a sort of random video mode, and you get something like 3m points.

#474 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Weird....
I shoot the hell out of him, and he explodes, but I never see any indication of a reward. I will watch closer, thanks.

There is no indication, though I believe ChadH is fixing that.

2 weeks later
#484 5 years ago

Wow, that looks excellent!

#500 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Looking good.

T-Rex, raptors, egg, gate, scoop signs.... show off!

I've got... um... Cliffy's...

#529 5 years ago

Intentionally draining during SF is a good idea, because it launches the balls back into the pops.

#535 5 years ago

Have you looked at the switch matrix? Is that a whole column/row? Could be a connector at the board.

1 month later
#626 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Is it considered cheating to prolong a multiball mode when there's a trapped ball?

Unfortunately, yes. Unless it's "skillfully" trapped under an upper flipper. You have to do what you can to either free the trapped ball, or trap up so the game can be opened and they can be unstuck. Sorry to be a killjoy.

#640 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

What's the proper way to lift the playfield?

Couple options. To use the bungee cord, lift it just like a single pivot game. Do you have the eye bolt at the bottom right of the pf by the flasher bulb? That's where the bungee should hook onto.

You can also lift and pull it out, then rest the feet on the lock down receiver like more modern games. If you really have the room, you can do that, pull it all the way out and raise it to lean against the backbox. If you pull it out like this, be careful pushing it back in, as the rear "bump" on the rails is fairly high. You may have to lift it over to get it back into position.

#642 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Will have to get some light in the cabinet, because it just felt like it was catching on something.

probably the corrugate sheath that covers the harness going into the back box.

#651 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

REST WHAT FEET?? I dont have anything to redt the playfield on if i pull it forward. I use a piece of foam to rest it on the lockdown bar spot.

They didn't use good enough screws, so they often broke off. They actually used the lane guide screws!

Mine got turned sideways and rescrewed down. Haven't gotten around to getting the nice new Mantis ones yet.

#653 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

OMG. Where did my money go? Just placed a couple orders for everything I'll need to make my JP minty. Well, as close as I can get it without doing a full out HEP tear down and rotisserie restore.
Will have Full LEDs. All three flipper rebuilds. Slingshot rebuilds with new switches and arms. VUK rebuild. Raptor kickback entire unit replaced. Shooter rebuild. Pop-bumper rebuild with new spoon switches and skirts and bodies. Cliffy Protectors. Latest USA CPU and Display. New rubber with Super Band flippers and posts. A couple new targets. And AnyPin Nvram.
Those are the main things. A lot of it probably doesn't need replacing. But since I plan on having this machine for a while, I figured I might as well make most of it new while I'm tearing it down.
Excited to start this project. Also having fun playing the machine as is.
Also bought a mini butane torch to polish up the ramps.

Think you're broke now, wait til you buy all the sweet mods!

#655 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Is there anything else I'm forgetting?

Lit back panel, lit t-rex saucer, dinos, trees, etc

1 week later
#708 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Crazy nice, about $3k I'd say, but that thing better be close to mint. Even then it might be a tough sell.

Yeah, and remove about $150 if you don't have the topper.

1 week later
#775 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

2. I just replaced all my rubber. I noticed the slingshots that were on it originally were much thinner than what I put on. And now I know why. I had a ball get stuck in the lane because of the rubber. So I'll be looking for thinner slingshot rubbers.

Think maybe you just need a smaller rubber? The more it stretches, the thinner it gets.

#778 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Is there a more accurate rubber list? I know some of mine are incorrect, as I ordered per the manual, but putting them on, realized that changes had been made post-manual creation.
Would love to see someone who knows theirs is correct, post placement and correct sizes of the rubbers.

Unfortunately, I think that's very common. Titan was trying to compile that sort of thing and I think incentivizing in some way. Keep your eye out there.

#782 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

So lesson learned. DONT USE ALCOHOL ON THE AMBER!

I'm going to try very hard to remember that. Thank you!

#787 5 years ago

Smart missile would give you ALL the CHAOS letters if you needed them, as long as you've gotten the first Jackpot. If you're draining out of multiball after getting the Jackpot, hit the SM every time for Chaos mb.

Ignore the powershed if you're going for modes. Going through an inlane lights the control room temporarily, so just Ramp > Control Room > repeat. I've gotten to two System Failures in the same game that way. Unfortunately, you're still nothing without Super Jackpots. I think that game only ended around 500m because I didn't get the SJs.

By the way. After the first System Failure, the inlanes no long light the CR, so you have to use the Shed.

#794 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Technically its just the right inlane. The left inlane lights the dock to collect a dinosaur towards multiball.

I don't think that's right. Left inlane lights dock and CR and right inlane lights Advance X and CR.

1 week later
#818 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Someone suggested in an earlier post putting a small rubber on the outlane post there if left drains are driving you crazy.

Yes, this is all you need to do.

1 week later
#837 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Please explain how you did this.

Plain ol alligator clips to the cabinet sub on one end, speaker wire input to a powered sub on the other.

*STOMP* * STOMP* *ROAR*

1 week later
#851 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I think I have an idea on how to fix it. Take some transparency paper, cut it to the size of the plastic, and glue a piece on top and bottom. Hopefully that will reinforce it, and keep it strong enough to hold the lights up.

Give Bondic a try: www.notaglue.com - can also get on amazon.

1 week later
#863 5 years ago
Quoted from JeffA:

Anyone else ever have music from Chaos stay on after the five extra balls have drained (so only one is left in play and Chaos is over)?

Happens to me all the time. Regular Multiball music too. Figured it was just a bug. Starting another mode also "fixes" it.

Quoted from woody24:

Should I change the spitter target lights as well? Or is the idea of Non-Ghosting bulbs a myth?

Definitely not a myth. Are you sure it's not just light bleeding in from the spitter bulbs themselves? You sure it's the C that's ghosting?

#866 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Last night I got the System Boot mode. Either it was strange timing with a bug, or the ball screwed it up. I had a hard shot to the left edge of the center scoop. The ball hit hard but didn't go in the scoop. But at that exact moment of the hit, all sounds stopped, and lights stopped flashing. It was dead silent with no light activity while I continued to play. After that ball drained, all went back to normal.

huh.... I'd look around very closely to make sure something didn't short. That sounds very weird.

#871 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Ok. So ghosting issue was due to light from the adjacent target. Sheesh. Been waiting for bulbs to come in for a week to finish this up so I could call it done. I think tonight I'm going to staple a business card between the two inserts to block the light.

Try a different bulb in the other insert. something like a flex bulb can help direct the light so you get less bleeding.

http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-super-flex

2 weeks later
#892 5 years ago
Quoted from boogies:

I just finished a "Shoot T-Rex" mod

Pretty cool! I did something similar by daisy chaining the scoop and light on top of the "box." I like how you added the raptor, however, in the "Feed T-Rex" mode, the raptor will be flashing along with the scoop and it's not a valid shot there, right?

Not a big deal since Tri-ball is obviously more common and important!

#905 5 years ago

If you hit that target head on, say goodbye. Obviously, it's worse if the target is larger than it should be.

1 week later
#922 5 years ago

1. I believe it's this post: 02-3905 Mini Post. That's assuming it screws into the playfield itself, not a hole that goes all the way through into a T-nut or something. Instead of installing a post on the left, I suggest putting a small rubber on the top of the lane guide itself. There was talk about this somewhere in this thread.

2. It should shoot it to the flipper (trying to cradle it out of the bunker is a good way to play that). Make sure all the mechanisms in there are screwed down nice and tight. Any movement down there is what will cause the large range of area it shoots out to.

3. It's the nature of pop bumpers to throw the ball where you don't want it to. That's really what they were designed for. Unfortunately, that's down the middle a lot. Only way to fix this is to get better at nudging and trying to save the ball. Chad's code would increase the ball save, which would help, but that's about it.

4. Most likely a bad trough switch #7. This is the switch all the way to the right, mounted on the side of the trough. See here:

5. That could be a bad switch in the T-Rex saucer activating when it shouldn't be. Maybe it just needs to be adjusted, maybe it's bad.

6. White vs Black rubbers is pretty much preference. The white rubbers are a little more bouncy. I usually just use what I think looks better on the machine.

#925 5 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Thanks for the help.
Re: 1). I think it's screw in, so it will be that one. On closer inspection, there's a further problem. The previous post wasn't unscrewed. They snapped it off, so the screw (minus top part) is now embedded in the playfield. How on earth do I remove it?
2) Ok, will do.
3) 'Nudging' in this case would be really smacking the machine a lot of the time. Not sure I want to be doing that too much on a 22 year old machine ... plus it's in a carpeted area (so the legs won't move on the floor), so the machine would take a bigger hit than intended.
Re: ChadH's update, does anyone know the status of it? Maybe Monday's stream on DeadFlip would be a good time to ask as I'm sure Gary Stern will be around to answer GoT and general questions, and supposedly Stern want to make it 'official'.
5) I'm pretty sure it's not the switch. It seems to have something to do with it getting confused about how many balls are on the playfield (or not).

1. Ouch. Search up removing broken post on here. I know it's been discussed (by vid1900 - maybe in his ultimate playfield restoration thread).

3. Don't be afraid to smack it. You aren't going to hurt it. If you smack too hard, you'll tilt, so smack a little less hard than that.
Don't count on Gary to answer anything about the code update. Chad has been completely silent about it for a reason. What that reason is, is only speculation.

5. The game is confused about the number of balls on the playfield because it thinks there are more or less in the trough than there really are. It's very common for all those trough switches to go bad. I deal with this same issue myself. Had both that #7 switch go bad as well as a couple of the other regular trough switches.

#927 5 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Thanks for all the suggestions. Re: the code update ... if there was a major impasse he could release it independently. It'd be very sad if he signed the code over and they sat on it, though

Unfortunately, he couldn't release it independently. The code is copyrighted. It's probably just in lawyer limbo. Maybe because Stern likely has a Jurassic World game coming.

#931 5 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

He can release whatever code he sees fit (or should be able to), unless he's signed it over. It's entirely at the discretion of others as to whether to do something with it or not, as long as he's not selling ROMs or machines with it.
The latter had occurred to me, but you'd think they'd benefit from an increase in interest around the old game.
I didn't find the info about removing the broken screw from the playfield. I think I'll have to get an engineer out anyway ... that's not really the sort of thing I want to do myself. Would much rather have someone who's done it many times already.

It is a delicate process.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/13#post-1434757

Stern owns the code. Chad can't modify it without their permission. See here for related information.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wish-list-of-bugs-in-wmsbly-wpcwpc95-code-to-fix

#955 5 years ago

Thanks Chad. Grabbing the code now! TFTC code too. Thanks for your work with this. Hope nothing happened to sour you on your work!

#1024 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

It is a great time to be a Jurassic Park owner. Lots of new excitement with all these mods around this game.

You can make a pretty pimped out JP at this point. Too bad it'll cost you almost $1,000 to do it.

#1056 5 years ago

Anybody have a used powerball laying around that they don't want?

#1072 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Can someone confirm that its only the left flipper on JP that should have a EOS switch connected

The lower right should have an EOS as well.

#1080 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Alright, found the issue:
The two EOS wires had to be soldered together to make it closed. So soldered them together and the right flipper works.
Will just leave it at that for now.

<EDIT: It's been pointed out that this information is incorrect for this style of game, see other guys below for better info!>

Yeah, this is bad. Previous owner didn't know what they were doing. With it how it is, DO NOT CRADLE THE BALL. If you hold the flipper too long, you'll blow a fuse.

What's happening now is that the EOS is being bypassed (obviously). The EOS switch tells the game to put the coil in to low power hold mode. As it is, you're pouring full power into the flipper all the time, and that's bad.

Desolder those wires and put your EOS back in line. Violet wire on the lug nearer the coil, brown on the further one.

#1082 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Alright, thanks
Although to be noted; have played this game since january in its current state and has never broken a fuse. but will fix it while Im on it
No sign of the wires for the right flipper eos though

What did you tape together to make it work?

It's perfectly fine to play, as long as you don't hold the flippers up.

#1086 5 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

True and false. DE flippers from this period are solid state electronic. They automatically switch to low power whether or not an EOS switch is present (same as Williams Fliptronics.) The only thing the EOS does is allow the flipper board to REAPPLY high power if a flipper gets hit down. Soldering the EOS switches together will not hurt anything. Your advice is correct for older games without solid state flipper control, you don't want to bypass the EOS in any circumstance with those games.
The wires were probably soldered together because early DE flipper boards had an annoying design defect where the flippers would not work if the EOS was not making good contact. It causes problems because a flaky or broken EOS would make the flippers not work at all. DE released a service bulletin (#54) to show how to modify the existing flipper board. Or you can use a later flipper board as long as it supports at least 3 flippers.
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

Thank you for that lesson!

#1098 5 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Below are detailed instructions for replacing both the CPU ROM and the Display ROM for Data East games. These instructions are from John Wart's web site.
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/documents/installing_eproms_de.html
I highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with both the photos and the narrative from John's instructions to ensure proper installation of your new ROMS.
Gord

Yes! Do that before you do something dumb and look stupid like me!

#1135 5 years ago

I love the fact that the egg is worth shooting now. It's awesome!

#1140 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Original, there are three times ive seen the trex eat the balls:
1. First time you hit trex saucer for T - letter
2. During feed trex mode
3. When statting multiball in trex saucer
maybe he removed the ..ball eating from 1 and maybe 3 to not kill the "flow"? Will test the new code on thursday.

4. When finishing TREX letters for award.

#1157 5 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

Video Mode - While I loved the video mode in this game - it's the ONLY video mode I can say that I really truly like - having it do the same thing every time was crappy. By instead making it so that it randomly picks - AND does it for extra balls - it greatly improves what I think is one of the neatest modes on the game.

I assume you mean skill shot? I would consider the video mode to be the random dino crossing the screen for (now) 10M.

1 week later
#1191 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Are the alternative orange ones officially made from DE? were they made afterwards because of demand? and if so, why not make them blue too? Costs less to reuse the same print, than editing it

They're alts that shipped with the game.

#1208 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I'll have to check the coils to see if they were replaced with too strong of ones. The flippers do seem strong, but only after a standard rebuild. Before they seemed too weak. Coils themselves were left alone.

Same thing started happening to me after a standard rebuild. Factory coils on mine.

#1272 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Sooo... I had a broken ramp. Cant find the ramp anywhere. So, it is glued back together with some supports under the ramp. But it is SO ugly.
*I sanded down the top of the ramp after it was glued.
*I first printed the blue and green. Then I printed the black on top of the blue and green with a laser printer. Sorta like a modern screen-printing. Then I mylared the decal
Put down the decal, trimmed the edges. and BOOM! It looks like it came out of the factory
glass on

Looks great, nice job!

#1308 5 years ago

My three center lights are color changing. I don't like them. One of these days I'll put green ones in there.

#1334 5 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Any idea if anyone is going to reproduce Ramps and plastics for Jurassic Park in the near future?

Highly unlikely. People have been asking for a long time.

#1341 5 years ago

yes, those are awesome!

#1401 5 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

That switch diode seems to be a common issue - must see a lot of shock with the ball hitting that scoop so often. Mine was broken when I got this machine (actually was ~attached with come sort of conductive epoxy or something - odd). Last week, I had to re-repair the broken solder joint at this same location - my old solder repair from 2000 had failed.
Previously, I had just tacked the loose diode end onto the solder connection. This last time, I removed all the solder from that switch lead and passed the diode end thru the hole before soldering back on. Hopefully the last time I visit that connection.

Isn't this where you can put a big glob of hot glue over that switch lead after soldering to help reduce vibration? You may be aware that later production JPs actually moved the diodes from those switches off the switch itself onto a stand alone assembly mounted to the playfield because of this issue.

#1425 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

You may be aware that later production JPs actually moved the diodes from those switches off the switch itself onto a stand alone assembly mounted to the playfield because of this issue.

#1436 5 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Where in the bottom would have this been located?

Just behind the cash box hitting the back of that divider piece of wood. If you look, you should see screw holes, if not the metal piece the knocker hits.

#1439 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I replaced the core on mine because I thought that maybe it became quiet over time. Nope. Just quiet in general. My Laser War had a knocker in the upper right of the head, so DE used to have them up there at one point.

I think if you just turned it so it was striking the cabinet rather than the cash box divider, it would help a lot. Solid wood vs flimsy wood.

#1457 5 years ago

I'm sure that's supposed to just be a nut, not a hex post.

2 weeks later
#1538 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Guys - what are the best ways to get the ball to trex? I find shooting to the extra ball and then waiting for it to come back down and hitting with top flipper. Any others?
As for the scans, hopefully those can be used to reproduce plastics too - 3dprinter ; )

That's the best way. At least until I'm in tri-ball and need to hit it to light supers, then it's just not possible anymore.

Also you can sometimes bank it in off the egg.

3d printers would be no good for playfield plastics, really. Not clear, not really smooth enough.

4 weeks later
#1607 4 years ago

yes, the egg is the way to go now. get to super egg mania way faster too.

#1609 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone know about the skill shot and waiting vs doing it quick being more points? Just don't understand if it's not more points, why shoot until you know for certain.

no difference, wait all you like.

1 week later
#1633 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Right...but I want to keep a SEPARATE set of ROMS for this. So does any one know where to get ONLY the chips needed? Not programmed, just the chips.

John would send you new chips, not reflash your old ones. If you want to do it yourself, Great Plains Electronics is probably your best bet for blanks.

3 weeks later
#1697 4 years ago

Those look like Aurich's great cards. Congrats on your game, looks nice. Gate is looking good too!

#1711 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

EDIT - so fixed my missing ball message. Moved the cord underneath linked to the ball tray and it fixed it. Must have been the position. all good.

You probably have a short or weak solder joint, then. Make sure the wires weren't rubbing on anything that would cut the insulation of the wires.

#1717 4 years ago

Yeah, it looks better than stock, that's for sure.

#1726 4 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

Speaking of lifting the playfield... Has anyone ever tried to make the playfield pivot? the metal "leg" on the playfield that slides on the metal rail is pretty close to the same as the pivot on my Williams Road King table. Seems to me if you mount the same "socket" inside the cabinet it would work as a pivot point. Just a thought. Picture is of my RK pivot

It does pivot, actually. There's a bungee bolted to the bottom of the cabinet and an eyelet on the bottom of the playfield to connect it to so it stays upright.

#1735 4 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So its the set of two with the rings at the bottom right? CAN you put a full set of rails on the machine? I had a woz for a while and man was that a sweet system to work on.

right, this one: http://www.mantisamusements.com/pics3/DEsupportbracket.jpg

Quoted from jim5six:

Figured out the Bungee, thanks! that is much better. Question, do you leave it connected or unhook it when you lower the table. I think i will unhook it to relieve tension but I was wondering what the original intent was.
thanks again!
Jim

yeah, have to unhook it. It is a bit of a pain.

1 week later
#1771 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

So which switch would be going bad for this scenario? This only happened once, and I haven't been able to replicate it again yet.
Had two balls kicked into the shooter lane at the start of ball 2. I couldn't launch the balls with the trigger, and the kicker to kick the ball into the shooter lane kept going off. I was able to launch them with the right flipper button though.
I ended up getting tri-ball shortly after the were launched into play, and after tri-ball started, all seemed to work normal.
Not sure what that switch is called, but wondering if it was the one that lets the machine know there's a ball waiting to be kicked to the launcher lane? Maybe it was stuck in a pressed state? But why would the coil that lets balls pass, pass another ball to that staging area?

Yeah, I've had that happen a few times. I still have all kinds of trough problems. That's trough #7 and a good place to start - also check the shooter lane switch.

1 week later
#1827 4 years ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Does anyone know where I can buy the 6.0 Rom?

Johnwartjr

#1839 4 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

what spoons did you swap them with? just new ones or different make/model? my pops are the least satisfying part of my JP

Try some basic Williams spoons.

#1896 4 years ago

Wow, with that alone, I have to ask - is a new sound ROM all that's required to use this?

#1928 4 years ago
Quoted from Element-X:

Hey everyone,
I wasn't very happy with the PDF copy of the game manual I found on IPDB, so I scanned my copy with the correct legder size sheet for the technical drawings. if you don't have a good digital copy of the manual, you can download mine here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7RGLhghgEovTDk0NXRESkJwVGc/view?usp=sharing

Very nice of you. You should be able to submit that to IPDB so they can use it instead.

#1933 4 years ago

What they said, indeed. I saw someone do a tutorial on painting that somewhere around here (the mods thread?). Makes me wonder if this was his game.

#1947 4 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Question: On the left inlane/outlane there is a small hole that looks like a metal post belongs there (like the right side). Pictures on IPDB don't have that post too but my new pinball protector seems to have hole to put something there. Just optional?
Second question: I have a second set of Slingshotplastics. Orange ones and blue ones. Why!?
Third question: T-Rex left/right movement stutters sometimes. Is it possible to clean the gears or are they is the enclosure inaccessible for cleaning?

most likely the post got removed during production. I agree I wouldn't put it in, if I were you. If you want the extra rubber, you can actually put a ring on the top of the ball guide really easy.

Extra slings were just an option from the factory. If they're in good shape, you can probably sell them for decent money. People always looking to buy.

2 weeks later
#2025 4 years ago
Quoted from mpcnj121:

New owner of a JP machine, it does not have the backbox key, any ideas? Thanks

Get a security bit and unscrew the whole plate.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=965

#2035 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocks:

Get a 5/16" Allen wrench. Don't take off the lock.

What are you supposed to do with the Allen?

#2039 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Dang it I meant to say the allen nuts holding the backbox lock in.

Not mine. Mine has security torx.

#2043 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I just had the strangest thing happen! I was playing raptor two-ball with smart missile, tri-ball, control room, and Mr. DNA lit. I used the smart missile right when the second ball drained. This starts tri-ball, super egg mania, and Mr. DNA. However, all of these modes started stepping all over each other. First of all Mr. DNA appears on screen briefly with the super egg mania music playing, then the screen goes back to SEM. I last shot the ball into the control room scoop when I used the smart missile. The ball does not eject from the bunker and tri-ball does not start until I blindly select a Mr. DNA award. Then everything else starts as normal, but there's more.
Multiball starts with the SEM music playing and "tri-ball ready" on the display. And eventually SEM doesn't end until I end multiball, meaning I could have simply went for the egg as long as I had 3 balls in play! I got a (shaky) video that shows what was going on. I just think the same routine that ends multiball also ends super egg mania and other modes so instead of ending via the timer, it ends via draining the balls. Never seen anything like this and I'm not saying it's because of Chad's code, I'm sure it's just a race condition I timed just right. I was almost getting into system failure/switch 28 territory, that was friggin' nuts!!
» YouTube video

The Smart Missile had to be hell for the programmers because of stuff like this!

#2045 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocks:

I misunderstood. It was late & beerz were involved. sheesh.

Drinking and Pinsiding can be dangerous, now give me my thumbs-up back.

2 weeks later
#2105 4 years ago
Quoted from daley:

So how many people have installed the Version 6 roms? What are your thoughts?

It's awesome.

3 weeks later
#2152 4 years ago

Looks like one of the nicest JP's around, that's for sure. Sounds were awesome! Some of the music seems to be a little too soothing for the parts where it was used, but I know it's a work in progress. It's just soo jarring hearing all of that after being so used to the regular sounds.

1 week later
#2198 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

Having since gotten my JP and rebuilding the flippers I've been putting a ton of plays on this pin. I have the latest code v6.00 and I've noticed at the skill shot the raptor doesn't randomize his "return" pattern at all. The initial left to right pass is random but I've noticed the raptor always goes right to left without stopping. Anybody else notice this?

It should stop 33% of the time. There were three animations - don't stop both, only stop first, stop both. Each time the dino walks back and forth, that's one animation, so the only time it'll ever stop on the way back is if animation #3 is played.

1 month later
#2434 4 years ago

Try reseating the cables in the back box.

#2440 4 years ago

That's pretty cool looking

2 months later
#2632 4 years ago

There's a topper in the market place now, though a bit overpriced, IMO. Not sure about the birds.

#2640 4 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Think this is the one that you are referring to ......?

Mod - For Sale
New “Jurassic Park Topper in perfect condition $180 OBO.”
4 years ago
Wayland, MI
Expired!

#2641 4 years ago

Also, this.

Archived after 13 days
559 views
Sold for $ 2,200
Contributed to Pinside
Machine - For Sale
Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean “Works good, no problems. Can bring to Expo.”
2016-10-10
Highland, IN
2,500

1 month later
#2845 4 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
after finaly beating the high scores, on initial input (jor is mine) i slap the start button!
and now.... jos..... holds the highscore gddmmit!!
AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

oh man... I think we've all been there. Sorry about that.

3 weeks later
#2901 3 years ago

I've seen it happen. I think super glue, but ask the seller ( accidental ). He's a great guy and will be happy to help.

1 month later
#2999 3 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

OK I have almost the entire playfield done on the under side. The control room scoop isn't working and I found a broke off sire from the switch. There isnt a diode on this switch and I am pretty sure that it got knocked off with the wire. I have some and need to make sure that a diode is needed on that switch and if I have the right part. Thanks as always. Full pictures of the shopped and ledded out JP to follow soon.

The diodes for those switches are probably mounted remotely. Follow the wire and find the diode board mounted to the playfield directly.

#3005 3 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Control room scoop diode is a service bulletin, so it should be on the switch itself unless someone moved it to a remote location.
I just uploaded a couple more service bulletins to my facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/JurassicParkPinballOwners/
It's service bulletin #43. (Thanks Ingo for uploading)

After the service bulletin came out, they started mounting the diodes remotely at the factory, as seen a couple posts above.

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