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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

6 years ago

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  • 8,295 posts - Hot topic!
  • 468 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

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#75 6 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I swear, I sometimes just want to put a rubber band across the left outlane and close it off!

Quoted from winteriscoming:

So after putting a bit of time in on my newly acquired Hook, I'm now familiar with a feature that I really wish JP had: a left outlane kickback coil.
I tend to lose way more balls to the left outlane than to the right due to the opening being larger since the other side has a mini post. Seems like a kickback would really save the day. Oh well, just the dreams of a terrible JP player...

I found that instead of permanently altering my playfield I simply put a 3/16 ring around the topmost lane guide post (whatever you call them). Easy to put on, fit really well and did a good job of making the outlanes a little less brutal.

#86 6 years ago

Yeah mine had this standoff here too.

1 week later
#94 6 years ago

As if you would know, Chad. It's not like you've pored over every inch of the raw code …

2 weeks later
#105 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Few things. First, I learned that the playfield is designed to be opened like a System 11 where you don't slide it over that ridge, it just pivots so that the back side is very near the bottom of the cabinet. That's how you're able to use the bungie cord in the bottom of the cabinet to hold it up. Now, that being said, could someone please help me with the type of eyebolt that's supposed to be in the back of the playfield for this purpose? Mine is missing.

True. And it has the flexibility of sliding to the end of the rails so that you can pivot from the very rear of the PF, giving better underside access to the components at the back. It's not as good as the WPC system of sliding to a locking system at the end of the rail, but at least it's better than System 11 fixed-point pivot.

Quoted from aobrien5:

Next, the outlane post on the right side. Is it supposed to have a rubber ring on it? Mine is just a bare metal post that has now been knocked so much it's a little loose in the hole. I can only imagine that's only going to get worse. I think I may swap my post out with one that I can put a rubber ring on just to save that hole from getting destroyed.

It doesn't ship with a ring but you can put a 3/8 on there with a bit of stretching. The other outlane doesn't even have a post but you can put a 3/16 on the top post of the lane guide and it does a great job.

#108 6 years ago

No worries! I managed a pretty sweet outlane shake-out thanks to that 3/16 rubber! See 7:30 in this video:

#109 6 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Anyone have a spare front cab decal i can buy? Thanks Mike

I'm pretty sure JP cabinet art is screened right onto the cabinet. No decal.

#111 6 years ago

Just a fluke. I haven't ever done it again on any game, so I thank that little 3/16

Thanks! They were an early prototype in the video. I've gone through a few revisions since then. You can buy them at if you're interested.

1 month later
#138 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

can someone take a pic of the ballgate leading to the pop bumpers I wanna see how it is bent .my game dont let it enter every time more like 75 /25 so im assuming I need to adjust some things.

I had a constant battle with my JP not launching through this gate 100% of the time. It wasn't the gate itself that was the problem but the ball would hit the sides of it or hit a standup target while being launched.

If this is the same issue as you're having, do the following:

Remove the glass and put the game into ball trough clear mode. Pull the trigger to release the balls and watch closely where they're hitting when they go through the gate. You can slightly adjust the exit point of the ball guide from the shooter lane. The tab that screws into the playfield has a bit of play in it. Loosen it, and adjust the angle depending on whether you observed the ball hitting the top or bottom of the gate, and see if that improves your success rate of launched balls making it through the gate.

2 weeks later
#152 6 years ago

Mostly just make sure no plastics or the ramp are broken because there are no repros. Test that the t-rex fully works in test mode and during gameplay. The Control Room switch can be problematic but it isn't a deal breaker because it is very easily replaced. Everything else is standard practice for every pinball purchase.

3 weeks later
4 months later
#277 5 years ago

I've never played a JP that launched the ball reliably into the pops 100% of the time. You can reduce it by adjusting the ball guide. Loosen the screw at the end of the ball guide, move it a little downward, tighten, then play test. You may move it too far down and the ball will hit the standup below the gate. Just keep playing around with it and you'll get better results.

I never actually considered that the ball may not be centered on the plunger tip as Pimp77 suggested. Possibly wear in the shooter lane causes that? I also seemed to think that it happened more frequently after a ball save or when kicking balls out for multiball. Possibly the game auto-plunges balls before they can properly settle into the shooter lane?

3 months later
#394 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Very cool, nice job!!!
Hey, does any one know if the loop combo guy is on here? I knew I should have pulled the trigger on the yellow scoop mod when it was available a bit ago....
If hes not on here, any one know how long it takes to get back in stock usually?

Thanks for bringing it to my attention that I had no contact info on my store! What a facepalm moment that was. I recently migrated the store and forgot to migrate that part

I have since added it.

I have also checked and corrected my stock quantities. I've only got enough backing pieces to make three more sets. I've reallocated those from blue to yellow. There are three yellow sets in stock now


1 week later
#412 5 years ago

Hey guys I'd like to design something better! I no longer have my JP so I'll need to visit a friend to measure up his game.

I'll post my progress for you to give feedback on over the coming weeks

#414 5 years ago

I think that a sunset/nighttime look would suit the theme the best. It would also make it a lot easier to add in references to elements of the film without having to illustrate them to match the rest of the illustration, or worry about copyright infringement.

I'm not an illustrator so I'll be sourcing artwork from stock and adding traced elements from other film material.

#426 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I think I started typing this, but didn't post it: An argument could be made for illusrated side art as a continuation of the image along the back of the pf. I don't know that anything would have to be presented in a way that would violate the IP if it's mainly similar looking scenery with generic elements. I'd potentially be interested in collaborating on something to that end.

That is very true. Ideally the art style would at the very least match the backboard art. I had forgotten about this art because it isn't usually that visible. But any respectable sideboard artwork mod should be respectful to any existing artwork.

That does make it a much tougher job for myself, not being an illustrator. I may be able to contract an illustrator to do something for me matching the style of the backboard and PF. That would ultimately be the best path to perfection for this mod!

#449 5 years ago

Anyone who has been waiting for my mods to be back in stock can wait no more, I have just had another set of parts arrive so I am back in stock. I'll be making up a bunch tonight


1 week later
#480 5 years ago

I'm glad you guys like my mod. I don't get a lot of feedback so it's nice to read

Your game is looking great Russ. I dig the East Dock sign!

2 weeks later
#497 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Hey im having issues with the trough switch from the power shed. I can trigger it from underneath, but a ball will not trigger it normally. I tried to loosen it and move it up a bit, but that did nothing. Any tips? I was going nuts not being able to get the S in CHAOS to get the 6 ball...finally figured out why.

I had similar trouble with mine. I think it would bounce over the switch sometimes. I bent the switch actuator upward so the ball would be more likely to hit it, but the downside was that a slow ball entering the power shed would not have enough momentum to roll over it and would get stuck. So it took some adjusting to find a position that would be reliable but not too high to hang up the ball.

The other thing you could try is to bend the actuator so that it bulges downward into the microswitch, requiring a lot less movement to trigger it. Some switches I've come across require a lot of movement so doing this really helps.

1 month later
#555 5 years ago

You know it's serious if they don't show it in the trailer because these days almost every movie trailer is a needless spoiler-iffic cliffs notes version of the entire movie.

1 week later
#596 5 years ago

IIRC they are lit all the time because they always score Lite Dock and Adv. X. I don't remember them being excluded from the lamp matrix, but I guess it makes sense because they're always on!

1 week later
#687 5 years ago

Hey team JP! There are some seriously awesome looking games out there now thanks to all the awesome new mods people have been making.

For those who have been waiting patiently, I finally have all my mod product back in stock

For scoop mod icon sets, apron card sets, and trees head on over to to place an order with free shipping worldwide.


#698 5 years ago
Quoted from JeffA:

These really are nice mods. I was watching the game play video you posted to show them off (two great games in a row) and noticed that your pop bumpers are a lot livelier than mine, the flippers are stronger, and was impressed that you could backhand the ramp repeatedly. Need to put some time into it to see what can be done to improve mine.

Thanks for the kind words! I fully rebuilt the pop bumpers to improve them. I think having them nice and clean with new spoons, and switches adjusted to a hair-trigger, makes all the difference in the world. I highly recommend it!

Quoted from GRB1959:

You have some very nice JP mods. You mention that the scoop light icons mod works best with LED's installed over the scoops. I have regular incandescent bulbs in my JP so could you recommend the exact type of LED's that you recommend for over the scoops and a possible source for the LED's?

As Chitownpinball suggests, I like concave lens LEDs the best because they focus the light on the icon with minimal spill light. I didn't have any ghosting issues because they were the only LEDs I used in the game. I don't actually know the brand that I had — I poached them from another game that I bought with them installed.

Quoted from winteriscoming:

I thought incandescent looked fine with the scoop light mod.

Good to know! I wasn't able to fit incandescents behind mine which is why I recommend LEDs but I've heard from a few buyers that were able to fit incandescents there. It has been surprising to me how much variation there is in the location and angle of the lamp stands. I guess the plastics, holes and location/angle of the lamp stand are to blame. I notice on blondtail's photo that her control room icon has to sit quite low relative to the other icons in order to be positioned in front of the lamp stand, which is a bit of a shame. I'd be inclined to try to reform, or shim up the plastic, or bend the lamp stand, to try to get it higher to match the other icons.

#700 5 years ago

I see. What I would do is bend the bracket for the control room icon upward so that it lines up visually with the bunker icon. Then pivot the lamps upward to point at the new height of the icon. The advantage of the wire brackets is that you can bend them to suit your game/preferences

#703 5 years ago

I've tested those before and they work well. You can squish them right up against the bulb housing so they are super low profile and the light is focused quite narrowly.

2 weeks later
#781 5 years ago

I had this issue on my game

Quoted from jeffpm: 2. The left slingshot rubber juts out slightly into the left inlane and causes the ball to slow down. From what I can tell, the rubber is making contact with the upside down U shaped metal rail. Is this normal?

Quoted from aobrien5:

Think maybe you just need a smaller rubber? The more it stretches, the thinner it gets.

^ This. I've had a few games (JP included) that had issues with the ball being pinched by the slingshot rubber at the inlane. A smaller slingshot rubber ring solved the issue every time for me.

I suspect it is a combination of slight variances in the thicknesses of rubber rings from the original factory spec, and slight variances in the placement/forming of the slingshot and inlane guide parts on the PF.

#792 5 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

oh wow i didnt know that. I knew something else was lighting it cause sometimes I could get 2 modes without going in the shed. Nice. I will try this next game

Yes this is definitely the way to go!

I really struggle to last in multiball long enough to get the Super Jackpot so my highest score was around 550mil. I'd reach System Failure quite often. Many of the modes are worth doing actually. Escape is particularly lucrative, so don't avoid that. Feed T-Rex of course. System boot is also a safe one to shoot for. And Bone Busters is easy. Just keep shooting the ramp and control room and stack-em-up!

The Smart Missile is one of the best features of the game IMO. Typically I use it to score either the first or second set of CHAOS letters when I'm about to drain.

2 weeks later
#825 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I was hoping to get to current Stern slingshottyness. But its not happening. Not sure what the difference would be. Like I said, pretty much everything except for the coil is new. Maybe the coils just aren't that powerful?

If you've got new parts all around then I'm sure you've already done this but replacing or cleaning your slingshot leaf switches makes a difference too (at least I thought it did, but I could have been imagining it!). My theory is that the faster the switch activates once a ball hits it, the more energy the ball receives from the slingshot arm.

#834 5 years ago

I haven't tested it but I think a good sub would be awesome on JP. Lots of the sound effects use bass. Those dino roars would be epic!

#848 5 years ago

Only if a failed meal attempt sends the ball out of control. Software-wise the game awards everything then the ball rolls in the saucer so unless it is the saucer switch playing up then you'll get credit for everything correctly.

#850 5 years ago

Oh no! What plastic did you break? I would suggest using thin lexan/acrylic and cut it to shape. You would only need to use it on the bottom so it should be a completely invisible reinforcement.

1 month later
#910 5 years ago

I found several of my JP targets were dead stiff too. The problem is because the targets are 3D shapes as opposed to flat faces. This means they have to be aligned pretty much perfectly for the ball action to push the target backward. If not aligned correctly the plastic target hits the metal bracket behind it.

This may or may not be the issue with yours?

#914 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

I had noticed the targets just seem like bad design. Seems like the metal should be bent in a way that shouldn't allow the target to get that much off center.

Yes! I think all standup targets should be designed in this way. It would be very simple to have a tab/flange on the bracket to prevent any sideways movement. From memory the DE targets at least used screws that could be readjusted and tightened. I hate when you get sloppy targets that have loosened rivets. Much more hassle to fix.

I do quite like the DE targets on JP, though. Having a design that basically hides the target mechanism makes for a better looking game in my opinion, particularly for targets that the player looks at side-on.

1 week later
#937 5 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

It's non-commercial and copyright isn't applicable since it's the game code he's modifying, to change the behaviour of the machine ... no new or modified imagery, sound or naming. Exactly, he's tweaking the rules.

The game code contains Jurassic Park IP owned by Universal Studios. JP logo, John Williams score, voices and likenesses from the film. So I think you're probably wrong with regard to the legality of distributing modified game code since it contains this IP.

But even if you were correct, I can't imagine ChadH would want to burn the bridge to any future projects with Stern by releasing this code deliberately against their wishes (or before whatever existing agreed process has been seen through).

The fact that Chad continues to say nothing means that there is no final word on this yet. He doesn't owe us anything so would only have something to lose by releasing it now outside of any agreement.

#942 5 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

This is how you would go about releasing it. So unless he's signed his code over to Stern and they now want to bury it for some reason, he can do this.

The fact that Chad is holding his tongue is the best evidence for the fact that a plan to release it is still in place. Which means he can't release it by any other means until those plans fail.

IP technicalities may be holding it up, on which parties are not allowed to comment (standard procedure). Or perhaps there are plans to time it with a future event that is currently not public information.

#945 5 years ago

Awesome writeup woody! If anything this proves that it pays to play that third ball even when you have a shocker ball one and two. I'm often guilty of holding Start for a quick reset whenever I have a bad first and second ball. I find it dampens my enjoyment of a pinball session so I really need to break the habit! I should go ahead and turn the feature off on my games

#1018 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Anyone else completely obsessed with this pin as much as I am? heh. No. Okay.

I miss mine every time I walk into my garage to play pinball. I enjoy it just as much as TAF (despite being regarded as the 'poor-mans TAF') and I think it has a way better multiball.

One day, when I've got enough money to keep games, I'll buy a super nice JP and never let it go.

#1029 5 years ago

A heads-up for anyone who has been interested in getting my Scoop Light Mod, I'm running a celebratory 'Code Update Sale' with $5 off and $5 donation to Pinside for each order (I wanted to donate to ChadH but he requested to donate to Pinside instead).

Main thread here:


#1039 5 years ago

Wow that is very interesting. I'd like to see a photo of that proto playfield.

#1054 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

And it looks hella good if you toss it in a tumbler for a little bit, gives it a greyish speckled egg look...mine looks awesome.

Sounds awesome. Post a pic!

#1062 5 years ago

I had the exact kind of split develop on mine. It looks like you haven't filled the bevelled edge to make it a right angle. The Cliffy protector is thin and doesn't have the enough strength to stand up to repeated bashing on the tightly-formed edges (particularly on this short-range scoop on JP that has very strong flippers) when there is a bevelled counterspace underneath. The only way to stop this from happening is to fill the counterspace with epoxy putty or something. If your scoop is in good shape and you're truly protecting it rather than covering up wear and you'd rather not alter your game in this way you may be able to fill the space with something like thin dowel/skewers or if possible to source some angled material that fits snugly in there.

I hope that makes sense?

#1125 5 years ago

Hey Edenecho, I've recently switched to using an araldite epoxy glue for these. It tends to hold much better than super glue. I hope that isn't too much trouble! It took a while of selling these to get feedback that super glue was failing.

#1129 5 years ago

If you're happy running wire up the back then go for it! The reason I prefer to glue it sticking straight in the back is to have the minimal amount of hardware showing through when backlit.

#1131 5 years ago

The stuff I use is called Araldite here in NZ. Not sure if that's a trade name or not. It's one of those two-part epoxies. Some packs have two separate tubes others have one that mixes as you syringe it out.

#1163 5 years ago
Quoted from koops:

This is where it would have been nice for the timer to not start until bumpers stop.

That would be a great idea. However I don't know if it would be possible with the kind of edits Chad is able to make. Increasing an existing timer value is simple. It is a more complex story to have code that only starts the ball save timer once any switch other than the bumpers is hit after a ball is launched — which is the only way I can think of to implement the idea. But then you may end up creating a loophole where you can simply let a ball drain from the bumpers over and over scoring points with an infinite ball save.

I credit JP for teaching me slide saves

#1170 5 years ago

The Bunker and Control Room are on Column 5, but the Power Shed is Column 8. So not a column/diode issue. Perhaps the connector is flaky. Do the usual unplug and reseat the switch connectors on the driver board and see if that sorts it.

#1189 4 years ago

The alternate orange slingshot plastics are reasonably easy to find:

Not sure if these are orange or blue:

That was 5 mins of Googling. Might have better luck with a deeper search

#1195 4 years ago

I hate when that happens! I've had it happen most times I've ordered a rubber kit. It sucked for my first few games but now I've got a decent stock of spares that it isn't too bad.

It still saves time as opposed to manually ordering everything based on the manual (which is often wrong and why the kits are wrong in the first place).

Thankfully JP is pretty quick and easy to get apart

#1203 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

How does one force the ball to stay on the wire crossover ramp? About 50% of the time, mine falls off. The culprit seems to be that there is too much space between the diverter and the plastic part of the ramp that cuts over to the wire form. At first I thought it was too much speed from the ball hitting the diverter, making it an un-even transfer. But I stiffened up the spring considerably to stop any unwanted movement from the diverter when hit, and still does it.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Makes me wonder why there wasn't some sort of edge catch on the wireform to stop that from happening.

If you've got an iPhone 5s, 6 or 6s with slow-mo video (or access to someone who does) rig it up to film the trouble spot and try to capture it on slow-mo video. This has helped me to identify troubles I've had with Doctor Who and Addams Family.

#1219 4 years ago

Just adjust the leaf switch gaps by slightly bending the rear leaves. The new rubbers, being tighter, have closed the gaps from what they were. Set the gaps according to your preference of sensitivity

#1223 4 years ago

I concur! In the meantime adjust the leaf switches on those too. And yes th front leaves should rest against the slingshot rubbers. It's the rear switch that you adjust.

#1267 4 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

I made a video review and basic installation guide for the scoop mod. If you are on the fence about purchasing a set for your Jurassic Park then I highly suggest you watch the video in glorious 1080p 60fps will def convince you! A pretty awesome addition that is essential for any Jurassic Park pin!
» YouTube video

Hey Joe! Thanks for the great video and the kind words I'm glad you are pleased with the mod. It is cool to hear you say that you're not typically a fan of mods but you like this one because it feels like it should have been there from the factory. This is exactly my ethos when designing mods.

Just a note that the bunker bracket is shaped to go around the inside/left-hand-side of the lamp stand. If you look at the instruction flyer that came in the box you'll see the photo showing it. No big deal though — you can bend the wire yourself so you can position these however you like

#1302 4 years ago
Quoted from NFK:

Yes. To me it looks more like the fence from the movie and gives the game an "emergency feeling" when lit IMO.

That's a cool idea for a mod. My issue with it is that it won't feel like it might have come from the factory like that — but that's just my criteria for a mod.

When I came up with my scoop mod idea it was sparked by a combination of things:

1) disliking the bare sleeved bulbs that look unfinished and don't communicate anything to the player

2) noticing in System Boot mode that the creators had designed icons to represent each of the three scoops. To my mind there's no reason to go to the effort of designing icons for the scoops that appear only on the DMD and don't link back to anything on the playfield. I felt strongly that there would have been some intent there to add these icons to the playfield/plastics in some way but was perhaps cut for cost reasons

So I added them back in and make the game look more finished and have those lights actually mean something to the player and the rest of the art/design of the game.

This isn't me trying to defend my mod — if you're not a fan, that's cool! I just thought I'd add my thoughts about how it came to be

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Just a bent piece of metal. Mines rusty as hell.

Mine was too, and so are many others I've seen. I decided to take mine off because I felt it was obscuring the view of the bottom of the topper.

1 week later
#1347 4 years ago

When Tri-ball starts all the letters in CHAOS are lit on the playfield. Completing the associated shot unlights its letter. C: Bunker, H: Pop Bumpers, A: Control Room, O: Ramp, S: Power Shed. When you've completed all CHAOS shots you get a wicked 'CHAOS!' callout and balls are launched from the shooter lane until you've got six balls in play. Then you're in CHAOS multiball.

If you can't start CHAOS multiball then a switches associated with one of the key shots is possibly broken.

#1349 4 years ago

Of course! I totally forgot the jackpot is the first part of the sequence.

#1351 4 years ago

Gutted, that really stands out doesn't it! All I could suggest is that you remake your own plastic if you can get hold of a scan. Might be a bit tricky though due to the overall size of that plastic and the clear window over the Raptor Pit lane. Alternately you could use the same artwork to make a decal to place over top of the damaged area.

#1368 4 years ago

I've had tabs on playfield ball guides spot-welded back on by a buddy. Can leave a blemish that you'll may not be able to polish out though. It's also possible that my buddy just kinda sucks at little welds like this (he does construction welding).

#1370 4 years ago

Good idea for a case like this where the tab is out of sight. I once had to weld a tab on a Judge Dredd inlane guide. The thin guide is right there in your face and the tabs actually face the player so I had to weld it. The distortion from the weld ended up on the face of the guide, but facing away from the player so I didn't mind.

#1379 4 years ago

What isn't clear is whether or not you are actually starting and playing the Stampede mode. Does it simply never time out and keep running scoring points for each target? Or does the mode never start?

The most common issue with this game is that the switch in the Control Room scoop dies and you cannot start any modes. Yours must be dead. However if you're managing to start Stampede mode then something must be triggering it but not sure how that would be possible except for a faulty diode nearby creating a false-positive (if that's possible) but then the triggering of the Control Room to start the next mode should be possible to occur again.

#1382 4 years ago

Easy peasy. Good effort enjoying the game for that long without playing any modes! JP does have a pretty awesome multiball

#1434 4 years ago

And it sucks. So quiet. I moved mine to make it louder. If you're putting in a new one I'd try putting it in the head like B/W titles for a satisfying knocker sound.

3 weeks later
#1539 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Guys - what are the best ways to get the ball to trex? I find shooting to the extra ball and then waiting for it to come back down and hitting with top flipper. Any others?
As for the scans, hopefully those can be used to reproduce plastics too - 3dprinter ; )

The only other reliable way is to shoot the orbit through the bumpers and then use the upper flipper. This is a lot tougher because the ball is travelling probably three times faster past that upper flipper than when it drops from the Boat Dock saucer.

#1554 4 years ago

There are printers that can print directly onto acrylic (or anything) such as companies that market the ability to print your own iPhone cases. There's one nearby me that I did some tests with for my mod. The printing quality is pretty good but it doesn't backlight as well as a proper screened plastic. They can print white layers on clear so you'll be able to reproduce this plastic if you can get a scan from someone.

Your biggest issue is the combination of requiring a white backing layer for the colour to come out correctly and backlight well, but using backlight media (which produces a great result) is tricky because it is white and you've got the transparent Raptor Pit lane section in there.

You could try to get the scan printed on this material, and have a peel-off adhesive layer applied on top of it. Then hand-cut the raptor pit lane out with a scalpel (those trees have some detail you'll have to get around) so there are no white edges of the paper/media showing. Then stick this to a cut piece of acrylic. You could remove your plastic and have a laser cutter trace it for reproduction.

Would be a fair bit of manual work but you'd have a good result.

4 months later
#2157 4 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

First preview of my reorchestration....please excuse my bad playing!
» YouTube video

Sounds amazing! Great work

1 month later
#2379 4 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Ok guys, have to be honest here... they don't look right with lights on.
I wanted them to be good. I had bad luck with prints made by Pinball Center and this is another one. They really should try and get this stuff right.
I really hope I can return the whole set as I took off the protective film of 4 plastics to show them to you
Original right sling:
The difference is much bigger in reality. Sorry guys.

Reminds me of the replacement DW slings I bought a few years ago. Can't remember where I got them from but although I was disappointed with the quality I was happy to have *something* to replace my broken ones. They had much more washed out colours than the originals and not very good when backlit. It's because of the inferior digital print method printing directly on transparent acrylic. I've tried machines that can do this for my mods and I wasn't satisfied with any of them with regard to print resolution or colour depth. Backlighting exacerbates these flaws.

1 month later
#2473 4 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I just ordered the scoop light mod from Josh is an awesome guy from what I gather after our transaction. I emailed him asking to let me know when they were back in stock, and he emailed me back yesterday saying they were available again. I placed my order and everything seems to have gone very smoothly (so far). Can't wait for them to come in so I can install them. Super easy and clean website too!

Quoted from transprtr4u:

I ordered from him , and he is a standup 100% great seller! If you have any issues he's very quick to respond ...
Your going to love your new mods!

Quoted from kimzone:

yea i have meet josh couple time before.he is well known in new zealand doing pinball mods he does awesome pinball mods. as much we live half way around would you would not be disappointed

Thanks for the kind words guys

I was working much of the weekend making a couple dozen sets now that all the printed and cut parts have finally come in to make more.

I've got heaps in stock so if you've been considering my mod you can jump right in


Also, if any of you guys also own a TAF, I'm in the finishing stages of a similar mod for the bare lamp bulbs in that game. It is turning out better than I hoped!

#2475 4 years ago

I'll leave it as a hint for JP owners for now. I'd like to reveal it once it is complete and I've got photos of it installed

I've had a request to do Tales From The Crypt next. I'll have to track one down.

If anyone has any suggestions for games that have bare bulbs like JP that could really benefit from a mod like mine, let me know!

#2479 4 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

That was me ... Hope someone there can loan you one! The bare bulbs on the entrances to the ramps seem so unfinished !

You're totally right! Data East did it a lot didn't they.

#2484 4 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:


There's one for sale in New Zealand right now. I might pick it up — who knows

1 year later
#4403 2 years ago
Quoted from ecco0201:

newest member! I’ve wanted this machine for a long time and finally found a nice on in MN. Anyone know of more scoop light mods are coming out? I want a set and they seem
To be out everywhere.

I'm pleased to hear that you're interested in the scoop light mods — sorry they're out of stock! I only stock them through my own store at, not through other vendors.

I should have the remainder of the parts I need to make more sets available within the next week or two. PM me if you want to be notified when they're in stock

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