(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • 10,134 posts
  • 576 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 47 hours ago by vec-tor
  • Topic is favorited by 238 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

59 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (10 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (10 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (9 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (9 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (9 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (9 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (9 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (9 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (9 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider TommyNYC.
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#5096 5 years ago

If all works out hoping to join this club tomorrow !

#5124 5 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Congrats!
Fair warning... Jurassic Park is a 325 pound machine... as opposed to the 250ish pound Bally/Williams/Stern Standard.

So i got the JP! It was heavy but me and my uncle made short work of it. Ratcheted straps and a handtruck are a must.
Some pics :

So here the thing. The machine has a few issues.
Forgive me i dont know the technical names for some of this stuff.
1) left flipper seems to hang a little lower than right flipper. If anyone can please tell me if this is an easy fix.
2) the "drop holes ??" To the left hat spell put cha..
When the ball goes in there it has a very hard time "popping" back out. Mostly the left one has the issues.
I would like to try and fix this myself, do i just need to buy something to fix this ?
3) the "drop holes" surrounding playfield/wood is chewed up a bit. I have heard of these cliffy protectors.. should i buy a set of those ? Will they install over chewed up wood ??

Thanks for everyones help, such a great forum.

Tom

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#5125 5 years ago

To help clarify my issues please see included pics

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#5128 5 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

Under the playfield, there is a bolt that is threaded through the pawl on the flipper. With JP, the opposite side has a red cap on it to open the EOS switch. Loosen that bolt, move the flipper to the correct position and tighten it down. The JP pawls have only one side threaded, so if someone put the bolt in the wrong way, the flipper will never stay tight.
https://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/515-5051-00/large.jpg
My C and A are both chewed up but I figure I won't be making it that much worse. Cliffy's can cause rejects and I get plenty of rejects as is still. I guess it depends on if it bothers you or not.

I have emailed the Cliffy guy i think i will buy them and see if it can prevent further damage.
100% will try the flipper fix tonight. I have a feeling that will be the perfect fix, thank you !

#5129 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Is the end bumper missing? It is a plug grommet.

I will check thank you

#5134 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

You 100% need to square off your scoop holes with wood filler before installing cliffy's or the edges will raise, causing missed shots. The p.o. of my game did not do this :/

Thanks good to know. Is there a certain brand or type of wood filler to use for this ?

#5135 5 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

Cliffy will cover some but maybe not all of that wear on your A hole. Lol. C hole damage should get fully covered by looks of it.

Yes it appears my A hole is messier than the rest lol

#5137 5 years ago

I think i need to replace this thing too it doesnt pop the balls out strong enough

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#5146 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

No need to replace the whole thing or even just the coil. All you need to do is replace the coil sleeve. Super simple and super cheap. When I got my JP, I rebuilt all the coils in the game, and they all activated like new.

Crazy enough i was taking a good look at the C scoop where the kick back is. I noticed when the ball tries to pop out it was hitting the lower left gap opening at the bottom of the scoop creating friction and keeping the ball from popping out. Not sure if i explained that well enough.
Anyway i took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled that lower wall out a bit so it wouldn't be the first thing the ball hits on the kick back and Unbelievably the problem is completely fixed. tried about 20 drops in the bucket and every one kicked back on the first try now.

#5147 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I have a set of cliffys if needed

PM'd

#5148 5 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

It may be out of alignment. If the ball doesn’t go straight up, it rattled against the wiredorm on the way up and doesn’t make it.

Yes ball was hitting the gap between bottom of scoop at the left first

#5149 5 years ago

I was able to also fix the left flipper now it is resting at the same level as the right.

When shot the ball it originally was not going through the T-Bar gate into the poppers. i slight bend to the end of the firing ramp has fixed that too. going into the poppers. looks like any other fixes i need to do will be purely cosmetic at this point thankfully.

The only other thing i am curios about is if i got a fair deal?
Whats the going rate for this Pin these days?

#5154 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Condition is everything. Yours has some scoop wear, but the area around the flippers looks OK and your pin works, so that would affect the value a little, etc.
Location also plays a factor, and if a store or dealer is selling it with a warranty, they would charge a premium.
LED's, Topper, Color DMD, etc, add some value.
I consider the Pinside price a rough guide for a good condition, working pin at a private sale such as $3000 or a little more.

The guy originally wanted $3,700. I took a snapshot pf Pinside average value of $2,700 and offered him that.

He said no right away and i told him that if he changed hi mind down the road let me know. He hit me back at $2,800, i accepted and picked it up the following Saturday. Based on some of the comments you guys made I at least feel like i made an ok deal then.

I also ordered and paid for Cliffys, a full new rubber set, the Novus cleaning kit and 6 brand new pinballs.
I almost ordered the Ceramic White ball from Marcos but $50 seemed steep to get that "Egg" look.
If you guys know of a cheaper Ceramic white egg to be found let me know.

thanks!

#5155 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinash:

In our area average examples go for about $2800.

BINGO , Exactly what i paid

#5156 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Is the end bumper missing? It is a plug grommet.

You are correct both Grommets were worn to nothing.

i wrapped some electrical tape to build it back up but i am now ordering these replacements.

thanks!

#5157 5 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

You are correct both Grommets were worn to nothing.
i wrapped some electrical tape to build it back up but i am now ordering these replacements.
thanks!

I just found the correct Grommets on Pinball Life and also a more affordable Ceramic white Egg Ball.

Bought em! To fix the Flippers properly

#5164 5 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I have noticed that the NE area has an over supply of pins compared to the south. Where i live, pinballs sell quick and high.
I bet there have been 2 dozen pins in the NE area listed this month that would have gone for hundreds more and sold instantly if they were in my area.

LOL thats the first time in history anyone has ever told me anything in the NE is cheaper than the south.
I will take this as a win for once.
Meanwhile NY State might just Tax me enough to come move down by you eventually

#5174 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Never got the PM

Doh! I pmd pinball gizzard by accident and then he told me he only had the cliffys on order. I then proceeded to just buy them from cliff R via paypal imvoice. I am realizong now i pmed wrong guy sorry.

#5186 5 years ago

Hey Guys
If i was to replace the glass on the JP is this a wide body or standard size glass?

#5189 5 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Standard. Save a lot of cash and pick up a sheet at show. Typically $40 out the door.

Thanks will do

#5193 5 years ago

And because life cant be perfect the plastic piece here just broke on the upper righthand flipper. Conecting the arm. I think its white plastic.

Does anyone know the proper name for this so i can order a replacement? Hope this machine doesnt keep throwing little surprises at me.

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#5194 5 years ago

I think its called a flipper link ?

#5211 5 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Whether it’s $30 or $40 it’s irrelevant. Just trying to save him from paying ~$70-80 sheet when it gets shipped.
I called 1/2 dozen glass shops and couldn’t get pricing below about $35 sheet without buying in large bulk like >25
Marco’s show price is $40. If you getting glass for $20-25 sheet without buying in bulk that’s pretty great. Scratched glass is my biggest pet peeve on a pin.

First thing my wife noticed when i brought the machine home was the scratched glass LOL so now i cannot Un-look at it.

I am going to be rebuilding flippers among other things on this machine so i will just save the new glass for the end since i imagine i will be sliding this old junky one in and out quite a bit.

#5212 5 years ago

Getting it shipped to my door for $50 or less works for me.

2 weeks later
#5301 5 years ago

Hey Guys

Would there be any reason that wedge leds that i bought to go on the playfield will not work in the sockets but traditional wedge bulbs do?

The lights themselves are fine.

Is this some type of power issue ?
I thought leds use less power ??

Thanks !

#5305 5 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Turn the lights 180 degrees around and re-insert.
Also, the metal wires sometimes to make good connections. Push them way out to the sides and re-insert.
If you have any questions, you can pm me or i have found ryan wanger (fellow pinsider and owner of comet pinball) to be incredibly helpful

Thank you i will pull the contact wires out slightly and reinsert. That might be it, crazy thing i had one working great and took it out to try it in another socket and it didnt work and then when i put it back in the original spot that didnt work either !
Will try shortly and let you know if that does the trick.

Thanks

Tom

#5308 5 years ago

It worked !! With pinball i am learning the answer is usually staring you in the face if you take a second to think or ask this forum a question haha ! Thanks guys !

#5344 5 years ago

Hey guys
Seems like everytime i fix some stuff something else pops up.
Tonight replaced all the wedge based lights under the playfield with leds, fixed a target that was not part of the playfield when i bought the machine ( the target north of where the ball goes into the pop bumper field qhen you shoot the ball )
I soldered this in and pressed it and it looks like it works.

Anyway everyrhing is looking great but now when i play none of the modes start !! No stampede ect.. when you shoot into the control room ect.. holes?
Also the left flipper just goes deqd for sporatic moments..
Did i know somwthing loose ? I am baffled please help !

#5345 5 years ago

To be more specific the "control room" is mot being recognized hence not giving me modes via the dmd.

Everything elsw on the machine working normally

#5348 5 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Did you check if the rollover switch in the metal subway underneath is still in position and functioning?

Thanks guys this makes the most sense maybe i hit it somegow when i wan soldering and putting in 2 new targets and brakets.
It makes the most sense becsuse the game works flawlessly otherwise

#5355 5 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

I need to replace my switch. It sometimes works. It seems if I lob the ball into the control room, it works. Any ball with some speed on it and the switch doesn't register.

Where in the metal subway is it ? It it a pain in the ass to access ? I wont be able to tinker with mine till late tonight.

#5357 5 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Not really. Here's a pic of where it is.
[quoted image]

Thats awrsome thanks for showing me.
I absolutely was rubbing against that area when i was soldering and screwing back in the targets.

I must have kmocked it loose or something

1 week later
#5428 5 years ago

Newest issue...

I installed new code recently.(5.13)
However everything worked fine until today so possibly not related.

T rex goes down to get the ball but his jaw clench to grab the ball seems to be delayed and only go off as he is already going back up and therefore not grabbing the ball.

Any ideas why this would happen ? So frustrating..

#5431 5 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Why didnt you upgrade to Chad code 6.0?Sooooo much better!

I dont know where to buy the chad rom. Point me in that direction and i will !

#5432 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Maybe one of the wires for the jaw coil has broke where it bends. You can take the cover off his head/back to see the jaw coil on his back.
You can also manually tilt him forward in test mode and use the trigger to test the jaw while wiggling the wires.

Ok i will try this and see if thats the problem.
Hope so, its strange that ge goes to grab it and then clenches as he is going back up so i know the actual motor should be fine.

#5435 5 years ago

DAMN I literally bought the other one from this guy because i didnt see he had that... DOH

#5436 5 years ago

I just bought 6.0

I feel like a dope for missing that.... thats me multi tasking at work. Buying things and emailing and pinsiding at the same time..

Hopefully i can fix trex by checking the wires tonight to make the 6.0 code that much sweeter.

#5439 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Maybe one of the wires for the jaw coil has broke where it bends. You can take the cover off his head/back to see the jaw coil on his back.
You can also manually tilt him forward in test mode and use the trigger to test the jaw while wiggling the wires.

I checked his back and even resoldered one spot that looked shotty.
Then i took out the C board i saw another guy do because my t rex never goes side to side.
Same thing as that guys post i resoldered a connector wire to the broken point. Anyway side to side doesnt work but it now trys to do it so that motor is broken.

Back to the subject though hes still wont grab the ball now is it possible the 5.13 code threw off his ball grabbing skills ??

As i said before he now trys to clench it only while going back up but not qhile touching the ball

#5440 5 years ago

Hey guys can i ask how you can get into the t rex diagnostica mode ?

#5447 5 years ago

Thank you, i woke up this morning with some coffee and took t rex apart. It was just 25 years of up and down on thw wire ! Opened up the casing saw the white wire was already seperated. I cut each side, put a new wire as a spacer in between soldered and juat tested. Hes eating balls like a porn star now !

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#5448 5 years ago

Lol now t rex works but for some reason now the lighting in tbe back of the playfield stopped working ( the bulbs on top of the playfield to the left of the raptor pit and both spotlights.
Did i knock something loose fixing t rexs wire ?..

#5449 5 years ago

Diagnostics

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#5452 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

This flaw is one of Data East faux pas...
Note: to fix with new wire structure... Dress wire into a loop-de-loop at the bend point.

I put a bit of extra slack.
I used some red wire that came with my solder kit to bridge it.

Since my back lighting now does not work is it possible this new wire threw it off ? I dont think so because he eats the ball powerfully now.
I must have broke something else ? Is there anything im that line of power that would mess the lighting up back there ?

Thanks for all the help guys. Big learning experience for me.

#5453 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

"T Arch" bottom left 4 lamps where the "kick back goes"

Yes these are not lighting now after fixing my trex wire.
Any ideas ? Its so dark back there now

#5454 5 years ago

Ps i wish i could buy everyone a beer in this JP club.
This really makes ownership of this game that much better !

#5456 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

????
The lamp circuitry is different than the solenoid circuity.
1) check #44 lamps bad/good?
2) check wires broken/not broken?
3) check lamp socket... clean/ not clean?
4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...
Note: you most remove the bottom arch assembly... to check lamp socket parts.

I must have shook something up overthere will start to take it apart now to check

#5457 5 years ago

I took apart the top this is what i found may i ask where to find these ?
The lights are brand new

4) check the 1N4001/1N4004 diode?
5) check "Z" connector from wiring harness...

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#5459 5 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Have you checked bottom of the playfield sockets and wires?

Yes i traced them out and cannot find any breaks

#5460 5 years ago
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#5462 5 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

For the heck of it, jiggle the connector on the upper left corner of the PPb board in the backbox. Also check the connector on the upper right corner of the power supply. Both will have same color wires

I got it open jiggling anything with the same color wires

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#5464 5 years ago

Just the raptor pit and spotlights left and right i think

#5466 5 years ago

It was the damn F1 fuse !! Good call !!! I swore i knocked something loose but i guess blew a fuse somehow ??

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#5467 5 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Is the whole upper half of the playfield out?
The gi connectors are j5 on the PPb and cn8 on the power supply. Give fuses are f1- f 4 on the PPb and are 5 amp

Thank you !!!

#5469 5 years ago

Thank you so much i had to steal a fuse from my leathal weapon to check.

Any chance if you know if home depot sells these type of fuses i might by a few to keepn on hand.

Huge help i cant thank you enough i spent my entire morning going nuts on this

#5472 5 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Not sure I had luck at HD. Better luck at Pep Boys or Auto Zone or Ace Hardware if you have once.

Found a 5 pack of 5amp fuses for 1.98 in HD bought 3 packs and switched out the rest of the F spots with freshies

4 weeks later
#5747 5 years ago

Hey Guys
Hope everyone is having lots of fun with the JPs

I was playing mine today and right flipper went dead !

Anyway the little metal cylinder that was in the flipper link fell out ( pic for demonstration)
Can anyone tell me where i can get a new part to link this to the arm ?

Happy Easter and Passover !

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#5748 5 years ago

Lol i didnt want the party to stop so i cut a nail and slipped it in with the head up for now

#5750 5 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

It's called a roll pin - don't remember the size, but it should be in the bottom of the machine. Take it to a hardware store - they may have the right size to replace it.

Thanks hope home depot carries them

#5752 5 years ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Marco has them for 22 cents. I need one,too.

Great im on the site looking to order them not sure which one i need. Any chance you can throw up the link ?

#5753 5 years ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Great im on the site looking to order them not sure which one i need. Any chance you can throw up the link ?

Is it this one ? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9370-1

#5816 4 years ago

I put a new Roll Pin in last night on the right flipper link.

I had to take the whole housing out to do it. Thanks to those that told me the name of the part but boy... If i would have known you gotta hammer that sucker in i would have just bought a new unit. Great learning experience though! My JP Back online !

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