Quick question: At the top of the left out and inlane is there a metal post? I noticed there's a small pilot hole there and on the top of my right out/inlane there is a metal post (no rubber).

I double checked the manual for rubbers pg. 34 and noticed there should be a 3/16" ID rubber at the tops of each out/inlanes as well. Thanks!

Good to know, thanks! For the metal post on the right out/inlane is there supposed to be a rubber or is it a plain metal post?

I think I like this one most as I'm very close to ordering LEDs but can't make up my mind...I like how the white light lets the natural colors of the game pop vs forcing it with colored LEDs. Do you recall exactly what kind of comet frosted natural white LEDs you used? They have single LED, double LED, double comfort LED and I think even more options. Thanks!

Not sure how I missed it but when I got my JP home last month I only noticed then that the amber was cracked horizontally in the middle. Would be cool if those get remade but I doubt it and finding one would be just as difficult.

I never played what was before 6.00 but just by reading the patch notes and playing a few dozen games I can tell it's much improved from the stock roms. I was curious though should the ball save light come on when hitting the raptor pen the same way it does at the beginning of the game? Hard to tell exactly when the saver stops during play though I know it's now five seconds.

As a side note I just finished shopping out the playfield. Took just about everything off and cleaned, polished and waxed and added new rubbers and LEDs. I have to say the game is almost completely different now as the ball is just about silent and is flying everywhere. Most of the time at the plunge the ball flys out of the pops without hitting any and tries to head STDM at just under the speed of light. Quite intense and will take some getting used to.

Does anybody's Trex go down for a second bite after just swallowing a ball? Thanks!

Time for some investigative work it seems. This morning I tested around with it and have gathered a couple clues.

When the ball goes into the saucer the trex comes down and swallows it as normal. It then comes back down and up again but doesn't close its jaw. This is exactly what occurs when the trex is supposed to eat the ball from the saucer but the ball is removed before it can be swallowed.

Next I took a flathead and manually pressed and held down the saucer switch. The trex did its proper routine but this time it did not come down for a second bite. This makes me think something down the line after swallowing the ball is causing this issue. The only things after that are the trex subway switch and VUK. I tested the switches on both in the switch test and both appear to be properly operating.

I would guess the saucer switch may be faulty but I have doubts as after the first swallow the saucer switch uses the kicker to kick the ball out of the saucer. If there was a second false switch activation I would imagine the saucer would kick as opposed to send the trex down.

My next test though a PITA to setup properly due to all the balls is to lift the playfield and have the trex swallow the ball but stop the ball before it hits the subway switch and see how it reacts. Repeat but have the ball hit the subway switch but not the VUK and again observe the reaction.

My guess is that the VUK is rattling something causing the trex to go down but as of right now that's just a total guess.

Reporting back to note the solution was adjusting the leaf on the up switch. After messing around in the trex diagnostics I noticed the up switch would kick in very late. I bent the leaf to be more aggressive and register earlier. Problem solved!

Having since gotten my JP and rebuilding the flippers I've been putting a ton of plays on this pin. I have the latest code v6.00 and I've noticed at the skill shot the raptor doesn't randomize his "return" pattern at all. The initial left to right pass is random but I've noticed the raptor always goes right to left without stopping. Anybody else notice this?

I contemplated a complete kit but instead chose to go through the arduous process of noting each individual lamp (style/color) and order that way. On the bright side the price was $80ish and I ordered from Comet. There is ghosting but as for someone who is pretty picky I don't find it bothersome at all. I used 1 SMD (5050) domeless for inserts and a 25pack of 8mm natural white frosted dome for GI. I needed a "bendie" for one jackpot, the egg, and a chaos if I remember correctly. I also went fancy and got the super bright tower flashers for the four above playfield flashers. I could get you the complete list if interested.

I was looking around online and for funsies I replaced all the caps on the sound board to no avail. I noticed the hum "rolls" with the controlled lamps too. I remember my Time Warp did the same thing and I found a youtube video where a guy instructed on removing a specific ground wire on the sound board and the hum was cut by what I'd say 90%. I'm wondering if it's a ground loop issue. The good news is that even when I'm alone playing the action and sounds of the game quickly drown out the hum.

This exact same sequence of events happened to me a few times including last night except my countdown usually dies before the ball kicks out. It doesn't happen often and only appears to happen during the chaos mode.

In addition has anyone else removed the plastic post that attaches to the plastic to the right of the middle-right popbumper? I find every so often when hitting the ramp hard the ball flies off the habitrail and gets caught between this clear plastic post and the control room light post. I finally removed it and now the ball will fly onto the playfield which is much better than getting stuck but worried about longterm damage as a possibility.

I actually never had any experience with the old code but judging by the patch notes everything seems great. Really digging CHAOS! call outs on every proper hit and the randomized mode at start, and the t-rex test skip and..well the patch notes say it all. If I had a complaint it would be very small in that I noticed with the skill shot that the left to right sweep the raptor does is much, much more random than when it sweeps right to left. In fact almost every time I wait for the right to left sweep as 98% percent of the time it's a guaranteed hit.

So far it's sounding really good. The tri-ball callout is on point! If the Chaos can be done in the same voice/tone it would be perfect. Speaking of which will this work with Chad's 6.0 code?

I think you may need to order a new bracket http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-6640-00
At the very end there should be a tiny 90 bend of metal that inserts into the jaw as shown below and it seems like it's gone judging by your pictures. It's also a little bit of a pain to get inserted into the jaw.
I would also bet that if that bit of metal broke off that the hole in your jaw isn't a nice circle and most likely a bored out square.
When I took my T-Rex apart for repair I noticed the little bend on the bracket has a "pinched/hourglass" look to it from all the usage cycles in addition to the jaw being worn out a good bit.

Edit: Also your captured ball is looking pretty sketchy. I'd get all new balls too if you're ordering from Marco

535-6640-001 (resized).jpeg

1) Go into diagnostics and once at the T-Rex diagnostics make sure that when you bring him up and down and verify that the display says the proper switches are on and off. You can also test the bite by pressing the trigger if I remember correctly. It most likely will involve the down switch not registering properly or perhaps something wrong with the coil/bracket/jaw that makes the bite function.

Edit from the manual:
T-REX Test This test shows the status of all the switches on the t-rex mechanism, and provides motor control when the appropriate switches are properly adjusted. To move the creature left and right, use the left and right flipper buttons. Note: The t-rex top switch must indicate ON to allow left and right movement. To move the creature up and down use the start button. Note: The t-rex center switch must indicate ON to allow up and down movement. When adjusting the center switch Do not bend the actuator, loosen the mounting screws and re-position the entire switch. Operating the trigger switch should pule the jaw coil.

2)I would check the end of stroke switch as sometimes a weak flipper can be tied to a bad connection at the EOS. Visually inspect the wires soldered to the tabs of the EOS switch and give them a good wiggle and tug. If it feels sketchy don't be afraid to desolder, clip the end, strip a fresh bit of wire and resolder.

Also make sure the EOS leafs are adjusted properly. JP's EOS switches are setup in a normally closed position meaning at their resting state the two contacts should be touching with decent preload. If you manually flip the flipper you should see both leafs move for a moment before separation and there should be approximately a 1/8" gap at fully flipped.

Take the backglass off and start from the top:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Data_East_CPU_Board_LED_Flash_Sequence_at_Boot_Up_When_Working_Properly

If that doesn't work I think you may have encountered a very similar if not the same exact issue as me. My post on it is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-you-had-a-pinball-that-you-cannot-fix/page/2#post-3521258

The bulletin I refer to can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

I have one but it appeared to have been cracked and repaired in the past. PM if you're interested.