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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 8,318 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 40 minutes ago by ZAuxier
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (6 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (6 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (6 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (6 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (6 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (5 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (5 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (5 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2861 3 years ago

Finally officially got my machine last month and slowly breaking it in

Here are a few mod/how to install video's I've done for people needing help!
Apparently I was posting in a dead JP owners' thread.

JP Playlist:
(I will update this playlist as I do more..still have some mods up my sleeve already, and now Tim's mod page has caught my eye... Unfortunately it caught my eye the day after his black friday sale ended lol)

JP Upgrade CPU/Display Roms:

JP DMD Saver Install:

JP Loop Combo Scoop Mod:

PowerBall [Navi-Ball] Egg Shot

NVRAM Battery Elimination [Lockwhenlit version]

Jurassic Park

#2871 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

great videos thanks!
is a dmd saver realy necessary in a home enviroment?
my cherry dmd stoped working so put in a new one
cherry worked from 1993 till 2016

I am not sure, but for the cheap price I figured what the heck. I figured I could do a review video in about 10 years lol.
I am debating the same thing on my cliffy's as I haven't installed them yet...but gives it a nice clean look at the very least.

Edit: I just went to play a few rounds and I realized I forgot to mention just having a brightness control on the dmd helps. Really cuts down on the glass glare if you're playing in a darker room like mine.

#2872 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Very nice. Sure a lot of people will appreciate being able to see what they need to be doing.
Noticed your bottom row of lights on the backbox are all the same as the ones above it. For a more authentic, OEM experience, that bottom row gets the blinker lights. They randomly blink on and off slowly. I think these are the ones. Just a suggestion. Maybe you didn't like them blinking?

I was wondering about that, these led's are how I got the machine and I hadn't looked into it yet. I think they are too dim as is...the room lights have to be off to really see it. I'm glad you said something...I just ordered a few led's from pinballife yesterday and totally forgot about looking at the backbox so I just called so I can change my order. They don't have led blinkers but for $2.50 for a box of 10 ill try incandescent blinkers on the bottom row lol

I had done that order cause I was showing the video to Josh from loopcombo and I didn't realize my blue bunker light was "factory correct" and he recommended putting the same yellow as control room or white in all 3 like his. So you know...gotta play with options to make the shipping worth it lol.

#2874 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Will reseat them over the weekend , with mine it's just the ball in play music that stops , all other sounds are present ...!
Thanks for the reply

Yeah, with his issue I was definitely thinking power from the video, but more like an amp couldn't handle it etc. When games don't get their proper voltages at the proper places they throw tantrums. It could be a bad cap, faulty board, or just a stupid "loose but looks good to the eye connection". Especially with stranded wire can't hold the proper voltage and creates extra resistance if only partially connected. The plug can look/feel plugged in, but sometimes the wires get loose in the plug and need to be repunched down. If the simple reseat doesn't do it...also try a proper punch down tool or small flat blade screwdriver of not available to make sure the actual wires are seated in the plugs. Be very careful, and of course do all of this with the machine off.

#2888 3 years ago
Quoted from Monarca1091:

Just joined this club today ....does anyone know where can i find a topper ?

I got mine from pinsider kruzman ...great guy to deal with. I think he has a couple NOS left.

#2909 3 years ago

2 more JP videos done...hope some find them helpful

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one had a loop combo sign break off its mount? Had the control room one break off during my party Saturday. Any recommendations for re-mounting it?

I was actually tinkering with mine while making this video, and might have been too rough with it... I think my computer room is about to come loose at the bottom and was going to reach out to him and see what glue/epoxy he would recommend if it does actually come out and saw your post. Seems like should be an easy fix.

Quoted from woody24:

Very nice. Sure a lot of people will appreciate being able to see what they need to be doing.
Noticed your bottom row of lights on the backbox are all the same as the ones above it. For a more authentic, OEM experience, that bottom row gets the blinker lights. They randomly blink on and off slowly. I think these are the ones. Just a suggestion. Maybe you didn't like them blinking?

Thanks again for the suggestion...Ordered Friday, changed the order in time, and still shipped same day, got them Monday! Took me longer to put the video together lol
Pinballlife had the incandescent #455 not LED blinkers, so I went with them. Fits well with the warm white LEDs. Maybe I'll get around to trying the cool/warm white/yellow backglass mixes at some point.

Jurassic Park Pinball (1993 Data East) - LED Bulb Comparison:

Data East Pinball (Jurassic Park 1993) - Apron Removal / Socket Adjustment / Custom Cards:

#2916 3 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

All 3 of mine came off and the mod creater said to use JB weld.I rough sanded the wire end for more bite as well.
So far they are holding up.

I totally didn't see this post when I chimed in lol
Thanks for the help

#2917 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

would love to see a how to on the rectifiers! for future reverence!

I have to wait till mine break. Or atleast someone local who wants me to come film lol.
So anyone near 22407 in VA who wants to be a Youtube star while they work on their machine....let met know! lol

#2919 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Anyone know if they use JP in PAPA or similar tournaments? I haven't seen it ever played, and I don't see any competition videos on or YouTube.
I'm guessing they don't use it because Data East has that feature where if you don't light your Tri-Ball by ball 3, it automatically lights it for you and is easy to get multiball. If that's the case, that seems kind of weird since there is still a lot left to play for and if you have the skill set you can really rack up some scoring in the chaos mode.
Edit: Upon further playing of my game last night, it seems that tri-ball was not lit automatically on ball 3. I vaguely remember adjusting that in the settings, to make it a bit more difficult. So maybe it is a setting where you can turn that off.

I am not sure about actual tournaments, although I'd love to see one. The game has tournament settings (Adjustment 41) None/Pinball Expo/IFPA-PAPA/Home. I don't see anything for the tri-ball enabling by ball 3 with official code. I think if you don't get it, you just really didn't hit any of the dino targets and got no sympathy from the game lol. But the 6.0 unofficial code addresses this and makes it harder to get triball.

#2928 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Run speaker wire from the cabinet speaker through the the cab, feed it out the air vents in the back corner... Ensure that the positive and negative connection match the sub! Plug and play... Have one on every game found when you attach more than one game per sub there is a feedback problem !

lol, now you make me want to hook my machine up to my home theater...
That means I would need all three (2.1) channels cause I'm greedy.

3 weeks later
#2953 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Hello club - new member here! My local arcade at the Danbury Fair Mall in Connecticut had a new JP back in '93 which I played often and became a fan, making it a must have for me since I started collecting/repairing nearly 2 years ago.
I have been reading the entire club thread here since bringing home a great example from Free Play Florida last fall, but it is taking forever read it all. I have played with the back box colors a bit, making the logo green. I probably won't keep it that way, but It's fun to play around with LEDs.
You may also notice that my JP is taller than my TAF project. The legs on JP are too long, making it 2 inches taller than standard, and it's actually fun that way. THIS PIN IS T-REX SIZED along with the big DE back box, and fortunately I still have room for the NOS topper I found recently.
My question - When a ball really sails around the ramp, the diverter must be moving a little, and a ball that should go to the right inlane, often gets launched off the ramp, and I'm worried about breaking the ramp or something else with these airballs.
Is it common to replace or upgrade the diverter coil spring or is there another fix? I have inspected the diverter and it appears to be adjusted OK.

My two favorites side by side! TAFs are just so expensive

1 week later
#2971 3 years ago

I just created a facebook group for JP owners if anyone's interested...

Like this thread, but maybe more potential like photo albums/tutorials whatever.
Pictures / Videos of your machine
Pictures / Videos of playing one
Show off your mods
Sell your Mods
Sell a Machine
Repair questions
Repair advice
New Group open to suggestions!

1 week later
#3004 3 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

OK I have almost the entire playfield done on the under side. The control room scoop isn't working and I found a broke off sire from the switch. There isnt a diode on this switch and I am pretty sure that it got knocked off with the wire. I have some and need to make sure that a diode is needed on that switch and if I have the right part. Thanks as always. Full pictures of the shopped and ledded out JP to follow soon.

Control room scoop diode is a service bulletin, so it should be on the switch itself unless someone moved it to a remote location.
I just uploaded a couple more service bulletins to my facebook group.

It's service bulletin #43. (Thanks Ingo for uploading)

3 weeks later
#3047 3 years ago
Quoted from sagejr:

Just curious to know how many of you have a topper installed. Mine does not have a topper. Was the game originally sold with a topper or was it an add on?

I always assumed they came with one, but never asked. My topper is sitting in a box because I need to extend my ceiling before I can put it on lol. I have determined the best compromise would be to cut the legs down and add a recess to the ceiling. There is no reason to use logic and just move the machine lol

1 week later
#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

Just checking with the JP owners to see if anyone has an original topper they would be willing to sell me? It doesn't have to be perfect. Lord knows my cabinet isn't. Please send me a private message if you have something. Thank you!

I got mine from kruzman, I think he has some NOS ones left. Shoot him a PM

1 week later
#3119 3 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

The fact of the matter is that unless you find a NOS set, CPR's are always going to be THE best option for the price.

OK, I am trusting you on this one. Just ordered a set.

I only have 1 broken plastic (above bunker from installing my scoop mod ), but was debating on the orange slingshots just last night on ebay lol.

I will do a review video when they come in. I'll try and do some side by sides, as best I can, but I don't want to go taking my machine apart anymore than I have to

1 week later
#3136 3 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I received my CPR plastics. Overall they seem decent, and as I mentioned in an earlier post, probably THE best option outside of an overpriced unavailable NOS set, or the incomplete direct printed German set, but as I suspect is often the case where repro art has to be redrawn from scratch, close comparisons to the originals are likely going to lead to disappointment.
Just a quick comparison between a stock blue sling and the repro: The repro blue is darker. The repro has some loss in detail where the stock image had finer black lines and the repro's lines are thicker, causing details to be lost. This particular plastic has a dithered dot pattern going from white to full blue. The dot pattern is different and flowing a slightly different direction.
I am disappointed by the loss of detail, but the fact is that we're not going to see a better offering for these from here on out.
I won't be able to get around to installing these for any kind of full review any time soon. I'll be interested to read reviews from others with concern for light transmission, fit, etc.

Mine came today!
You are right in line with what I wanted to say but you had a little more detail about the lines and such so I second yours!
Long story short...Would they pass as 100% NOS? No. But they are really good, and actually a little thicker than expected.
If you've got cracks, you won't be dissapointed!

I compared a few pieces side by side and noticed like the the repros by the flippers, and the shooter lane are a tad smaller sitting right on top of original, so you would probably want to replace "mirrored" or similar ones in pairs to not notice. This might also be recommended with the darker blue.

The most important thing is that atleast the ones I spot checked quick, was that the screw holes actually lined up with the screws!

If I were to refer to them as these being scanned, there are subtle differences where centering is different than NOS, but really you have to take them for what they are....they are not direct "rip-off" copies reprinted from a scanner. These are from an actual artist, recreating them in painstaking detail, even down to the handwritten # codes that were on the originals. Just wanted to make sure that was known cause alot of people just looking for plastics would probably assume scanned.

I did not get into actual installation, and didn't even realize some like the gate are riveted, so I didn't bother trying light behind it. I am debating on keeping them as insurance vs selling them, so I also did not take the protective coating off of them either.

As discussed above, the raptor pit one does have the opening a little different to make installation easier than stock with the connection.

I did record as unboxing to get a start to a video, so hope to get one up soon.

#3139 3 years ago

Ok, got a the quick review vid of the plastics done. Spot checked a few side by side:

Added over 4 years ago: Just noticed I am missing the green DE keychain in my set

#3143 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

You didn't take the plastic protector off of any of the plastics to compare them??????

No, not till I'm a big enough YouTuber to pay for my plastics. The plastic I broke was from making another video so I don't wanna take mine apart till I have to. The original intent was to add HD photos of each one, but their site already has that, and I can't really show light behind them without installing it, as comment23 beat me to the desk lamp mod and already put up some photos.

#3159 3 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not entirely up to speed on the CPR process, but it seems like there should be some kind of peer review process to ensure correct colors...

I guess I kind of assumed this is how it worked....Wonder if this is still possible or if they've ran what they're going to run and done.

Quoted from koops:

Has anyone that has purchased these from CPR sent them an email with your concerns?

Actually, I was hoping kevincpr would comment either here or on his thread (, but I guess no one has commented concerns there yet.
I went ahead and just sent an email now.

Quoted from RetroRefurbs:

Blue is actually the hardest of all colors to match when you're designing something on computer to be printed.

And seeing this from a possible competitor being objective, is a perfect reason I want to stay objective myself and not go saying they suck etc. I am not an artist, designer, or print setter so I don't see the many hours behind the scenes it takes to pull them off. If you're going to do an entire shop job, my opinion is they'll be fine/not noticed, but I am more leary of any mixing with stock side by side after seeing more comments.

#3164 3 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Welcome. Still a firm believer that if this machine says B/W on it it's easily within the top 25. Even at its current slot it's truly underrated.

Technically my warranty card does...does that help?

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#3194 3 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I contacted cpr and they said they were color matched off of a NOS set - I guess a well hidden from light set. Mine are going back just have to get around to shipping them.

Edited as a got a pretty quick response this time...maybe something happened to the email

But to post a little more detail in the response about the process and official response: (not the entire email)
"The entire set is meant to be replaced, with the originals going away and fogotten forever. Mix-n-match never usually happens with repro sets and originals together. That was never their point, I guess."

"The blue is matched to an NOS set, where Stu chose the Pantone match of every color on the NOS set, as seen in his studio under 4000 lumen 5500K light, alongside an official Pantone swatch book. Then those inks were mixed to the exact Pantone spot colors, and printed as seen. Gamma is also considered in the mix, to counter "washout" when illuminated. The final intended tone is that blue when BACKLIT. Which adds 20-30% Gamma into the color (bringing it up to tone)."

"We just ran 200 sets, and half are sold now. Only 2 people have spoken up thus far, and written in questions about the blue so far (out of 100 people). I can't change the 200 sets - and we aren't re-running We just made 200 sets "

"We'd hope if folks have grievances with not liking the blue - they'd clearly see it in the very detailed pictures, and not buy."

"I always simply say it - install and enjoy... forget the originals. Put them away."

"If that's no good, we always accept a full return for refund. Nobody is stuck with any CPR product they are not happy with."

I guess I can't disagree with this as we did question the blue before ordering, and still ordered. Looking back at his post, they look even bluer in the photo. I am curious what their intended backlight was, as incandescent vs led vs superbright led etc may come into play as well as would with regular plastics. I emailed again to ask about recommended backlighting and got his auto response that Kevin will be out till the 13th and not responding to email

So the bottom line is if you want a set, they are half sold out, and will not be making another run. If you have a set and are not happy, they will accept a return.

#3198 3 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I doubt we'll see that. I think they do a run and move on.

Quoted from woody24:

I'd like to see a comparison of their NOS set and their Repro set. Was considering buying a set, but will hold off in hopes that they correct the blues from what you all say it's like now.

I updated my post #3194 before I saw these...official response is they will not be doing a correction or re-run.

1 week later
#3208 3 years ago
Quoted from Time:

Anyone have problems with these lamp sockets getting really hot? I had LED's in there and both were getting super hot. Melting plastic smell hot. I haven't explored yet but wondering if anyone else has seen issues like that.

I think they look ok in the pic, but can't see it all...shouldn't get hot with led. Make sure contacts have a good connection, i.e no corrosion or loose wire. I would also make sure the wires on the led and socket are adjusted to properly touch the contacts as less metal = increased resistance. If the socket isn't holding the bulbs tight, it could be making less contact. Also maybe test the leds somewhere else or replace...they could be having an issue themselves.

2 weeks later
#3214 3 years ago
Quoted from stwicks:

Thought this was interesting concerning the CPR plastic colors. This is a copy of the JP flyer, look at the flipper plastics, they are a darker blue than the rest...

Original flyer with clear pop bumpers, ceramic captive ball, and orange apron decals?

#3223 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

and orange t rex post with the spot light

lol, didn't even notice that...maybe this is starting to explain the reason for the alternate orange pop bumpers.

3 weeks later
#3251 3 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it - I'm looking for instructions on how/where to install ChadH's ROM. Any help would be appreciated - thanks!

Here's a video I made for JP

1 month later
#3395 3 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Has my one way bracket been installed backwards by the p.o.? Mine bounces off it towards the upper right flipper.

Lol I was wondering if you meant the computer room, as I figured no way to hit the powershed angle on launch. It's actually sort of common for the T-gate to be installed backwards accidentally, which leads to removal when they can't figure it out. I just figured it would hit that and drop down, but sounds like it sets up a cool trick shot.

#3402 3 years ago

kruzman may have nos left. Rock custom pinball has them in his shop...not sure if his are nos or repro.. but should be showing in the suggested items at the bottom of the screen from his pinside shop. Trying out pinside on my phone right now and can't see the item lol

1 week later
#3420 3 years ago

And it's officially announced this morning!
JP is ColorDMD's #62!

#3425 3 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Awesome. Just placed my order!

lol yep. I tried to talk myself out of it. I lost yet I won at the same time. In the middle of typing this post and just got the shipping confirmation. I guess I see doing some videos in the near future.

#3451 3 years ago

The color code isn't scheduled to release until Aug 4th. Apparently they get the units out quick though, ordered yesterday and my display is supposed to be here tomorrow.

#3463 3 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Yeah I'm surprised about the hype when it costs tree fiddy. That's just way too much IMO but it is neato.

I once felt the same way, but was comparing to the like 4 color palate swap ones. And then I thought back to playing a colored Addams on my trip to the Chicago Beercade a few years ago and felt like it was the coolest thing as I had never seen it before. Integrated mods like this are also easier to hide from non gaming significant others than say the Ms PacMan I decided to show up with after work a few weeks ago lol. And remember you're close enough to me to come check it out in person if you need a demo.

#3470 3 years ago

No smoke! No Fire!

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#3474 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Wow a billion. I need to start playing again.....

lol, that was probably my best game ever
I wanna try to beat it again before installing 6.0

#3475 3 years ago

Here is my ColorDMD installation video. Of course I will be doing an update when the color code is released to show it in action!

#3503 3 years ago

I don't see an official announcement yet....But you may want to check out ColorDMD's download section...
something just popped up in there!

Too bad I'm stuck at work right now

jp link (resized).PNG

#3525 3 years ago

Here is my video with how to upgrade the firmware, review, and gameplay video for the Color DMD.

#3529 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Definitely sounds like a switch matrix issue. Go into switch test mode and test them.

Yeah, see what is going on in your switch anything activated without being hit? One thing triggering multiple switches? This is probably related to you getting the switch #28 error we talked about before you upgraded. Chad fixed that glitch in 6.0 so you won't get the actual "Dino Dino Dino" mode, but it sounds like you are incorrectly triggering at least the power shed with your flipper button. (or possibly something on the verge of triggering and the vibration of the coil firing is enough to trigger something else)

#3538 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Regarding your question about CHAOS mode at 12:30 in the video - it is supposed to end when your multiball ends. Yours continues with only 1 ball left and 0 balls left.
Also it is supposed to launch all 6 balls when you start it by spelling CHAOS (or hitting the smart missile to accomplish that). Do you have 6 balls installed? Are your through switches working?

Yes, I have 6 balls installed and no switch errors. 1,2, or 3 ball play doesn't do it...everything else works fine its just a hiccup at the end of that 1 mode. I haven't had to spell CHAOS to start it...just shoot both jackpots, then spell chaos to light the t-rex 50M shot.

#3545 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

This might help...
» YouTube video

Lol, thanks for the fresh set of eyes. I've actually watched that video in the past, but forgot it was about multi-ball and not just the 6 trough switches.

I'll give it a look next time I get a chance to crack it open.

#3546 3 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Quick question... what should T-rex do during boot up diagnostics?
How many times should he turn left / right and go down / up?
... Altan

Just happened to have leftover footage from my last video...actually used the power on click / T-rex diagnostics to sync the camera angles. Sitting here burning some roms so I had time to kill and render out a section for you

2 weeks later
#3588 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Wizard mode question for JP owners... Anybody tried not flipping during System Failure to let balls drain...? The auto launch goes straight into Pop Bumpers for 1 Mill points switch hits. Why bother flipping at all??

lol, no. But it makes me wonder if it's a good strategy. I really only get to system failure by using the buy in feature or turning off the playfield glass.

#3622 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

So what is consensus on JP software ver? Are most owners running latest jailbrake Hack from some dude in his garage or Official Data East drop by the real company? Curious if hack helps or screws re-sale value.

There is no doubt Chad's attractions will drive kids out of their minds.

6.0 is the greatest thing since socketed roms!

1 month later
#3754 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

I guess I'll take your $15... lol
I didn't think there was much demand for them. If there is, I can certainly make one.

I'd be interested in one. Preferably one that could mount to an existing screw.

2 weeks later
#3822 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Finally got the decals worked out. They are high gloss and came out really nice.
East Dock Signs are now available on my website.

Sweet! Ordered, but I won't get to see it till back from the honeymoon in 2 weeks lol

2 weeks later
#3867 2 years ago

Hey I just got back from my honeymoon and seeing what I missed in the group.
My new dock sign was waiting in the mail hold so hoping to check that out tomorrow!

Quoted from ypurchn:

so what's the verdict on colorDMD - LED or LCD for JP?

I don't have the LCD to compare but here are 2 videos with gameplay from the LED I installed in mine:

I wish they would make a plug and play LCD that size though, as at first I thought I didn't care about the "cartooney" graphics options, but recently played a Twilight Zone with LCD and really actually liked that setting.

I've never noticed ghosting on the LED display, and even though brighter than LCD, playfield glare isn't bad on mine and it's in a dark corner which are 2 other things I've heard asked about it.

Quoted from Jenniebear:

Weird issue. If I hit the start button some times right at the end of a game. The Dmd and the sound will completely stop working. The only thing that works is the gi lights in the back box. Turn the game off and power back on and everything works great. Then randomly the start button will cause everything to shut off again. Any ideas? Thanks

jenniebear seconding the old roms suggestion from chadh ...

specifically v5.10 CPU fixes a display blankout issue...see svc bulletin 47 if this sounds like your issue. However, I thought it was just after game over and not related to the start button and might be a coincidence. (you might have to join the group to see the file, but it's a pdf in my facebook JP owner's club)

5.13 is the latest official DE code

chadh 6.0 version is "built off" 5.13 so it also shouldn't have the display issue if it's the same thing + all the fun tweaks and changes

If you need roms I can help with burning them for you.

1 week later
#3882 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I need a little help from you guys that have an assembled JP in front of you.
Some of you may be following my thread on my full JP restoration.
I am in the process of cleaning the screw holes of clear coat before assembly and I have ran into an issue. On the left out lane, my machine did not have a metal post with a ring on it. It appears that nothing was ever installed there but the dimple for the screw is there. I have seen pictures that show a post installed and other that look like mine. The manual calls for a ring at that location and it appears in the drawings on both sides. Just trying to get an idea if there is supposed to be a post there. I don't want to clean the hole out and then realize there isn't supposed to be a post there.
Thanks for the help.

Mine too is just the pilot hole

#3897 2 years ago

It's the most wonderful mod of the year!

20171208_235754743_iOS (resized).jpg

#3906 2 years ago
Quoted from Ns2973:

Where are we sourcing them, last thread I saw on the roms was 6 months ago and burning one is a bit beyond me.
Thanks for the help guys!

Quoted from mbott1701:

I use Stephan at Hobby Roms when I need something burned.

I can do custom burns as well. PM me.

-edit oh oops, you already did lol

#3924 2 years ago

Make sure you install it can be a little tricky!

#3941 2 years ago

Welcome to the newbies!

Sigh... Am I the only one with black dino-less speaker grills? lol

2 months later
#4301 2 years ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

Did you install the latest 6.0 code? After installing the Rom I noticed my trex moved really slow and would get hung up moving to his left. It's probably mentioned here in the past but with the new code the motor is pulsed to move slower to save the motor. The old code the trex would get full village and move quickly.
Anyways I ended up taking the two screws off the plate that sits in front of him off and inspecting the way he moves. The roller assembly grease was no longer grease and was as sticky as honey. I used some alcohol and removed all the grease from the top and underside of the plate and relubed with a synthetic silicone grease. Next I removed the motor and used a needle filled with alcohol to squirt some alcohol in the holes where the brushes sit. Spun the motor a few times to clean up the brushes and then let it sit for the alcohol to dry. I left the gearbox installed on the machine but squirted some alcohol in the gearbox and use some qtips while I spun the head left to right to remove as much of the softened grease that I could. Then shot some silicone grease in for the gears. Reinstalled everything and now trex is moving side to side with no issues.
I would of liked to disassemble the gearbox but I was limited on time and everything seemed to workout. Also make sure when you reinstall the plate in front of the trex make sure it's not hanging up on him. Mine was missing the original spacers, so I just used multiple washers until it was high enough to not hang up on it anymore.

The T-rex motor pulsing was fixed (changed) back in 5.01, not even sure if it's noticeable to the player unless they already have motors that were on the edge of failing. I'm thinking it's a physical issue of some sort....the T-Rex assembly can be very finicky. From page 25 of the manual..I would check the behaviour of your TOP switch and make sure it's working/being triggered correctly...

trex (resized).PNG

2 weeks later
#4331 2 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Just wanted to share that as part of cleaning / fixing my JP, I recently adjusted the left ramp diverter. Now the ball goes flying down the ramp and diverts across the playfield at full speed. However, it does this so fast that 25% of the time when it hits the end of the habittrail, it ends up bouncing out the open left side and roles down the top of the slingshot plastic.
So now I need to either (1) adjust the diverter so it's not quite as fast or (2) figure out a way to dampen the ball at the end of the habittrail.
What have others done?
... Altan

I am having this issue and usually goes out the right outlane...VERY ANNOYING! I've thought about getting the rubbers that just barely fit around the wireform. Not sure what size those are called. But one day I'll get around to trying it. Would this be size 0?

#4337 2 years ago
Quoted from altan:

As a test, I cut a 1/8" wide piece of the fuzzy side of velcro and stuck it (using the adhesive on the back) to the LEFT side of the habit trail ending. This solved the problem. (Interestingly, putting it on the right, which I did first, made it much worse!)
I'm going to try other solutions, but wanted to share.

Thanks for that...we have plenty of velcro for cable management at work and never throught to try that!

2 weeks later
#4355 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

I'm out of the club for now guys. I'm sure I'll buy another JP at some point in the future. I have some mods you may be interested in.
Winteriscoming T-Rex #3 (brand new never installed) - $400
JP Topper made by Tilttopper (hardly ever used, comes with power tap) - $220
JP alternate translite - $80
EnerGI Maestro - GI LED Smoother for Data East pinball machines - $100

Sad to see you go!

3 months later
#4454 2 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

To add on to this, if the left/right motor is weak or failing, it can be disabled and not affect game play. On mine, it seemed that T-Rex would move a bit slow to the left or right sometimes and not be ready to eat the ball. At that point, it makes sense to forget the side to side movement in favor of always being ready to pick up the ball.

Also check the CPU/Display version...if it's really old there could be more wear on the motor as the code was updated to address burning out the gears / stressing the motor.
<v5.0 is pretty rare out in the wild, but it's possible, especially on reimports.

I can help with updated roms if you can't burn your own.

1 month later
#4529 2 years ago
Quoted from Coz:

Thanks. Wanted confirmation before i ordered the colordmd.

Running 6.0 w/ ColorDMD:

So easy to install:

#4548 2 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

You can go into the adjustments menu and turn off "Graphic Realism". Keeps Rexy from tearing the goat in half and eating him on the DMD during "Feed T-Rex". If your 7 year old isn't into that sort of thing.

Was always wondering what that setting actually controlled!

3 months later
#4868 1 year ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

so my fiancé just showed me a post from a private F.B group she is a member on where this dude just took possession a N.I.B Data East Jurassic park for $500.oo with a crazy 24 years story behind it ...I am not a member of the F.B page but will try to copy &amp; paste the story here if she ever figures out a way to send it to me ...... in the meanwhile maybe someone else here can find it

If only we knew one of these groups

It's so cool to come across stories like these...even if it's just a little teaser.

1 month later
#5075 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Another question, does 6.0 rom work with ColorDMD?

Yes, it was tested with color DMD.
I can help if you can't burn your own roms.

Here is a video I did running 6.0.

1 month later
#5409 1 year ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Sound and voice roms
Hi guys has anyone got any experience as to whether it is worthwhile upgrading my sound and voice roms to the latest version? My chips say v.429 and it appears as if the latest version is v1 is there any difference to the sound and voices?

Lol, that options font looks familiar

Generally sound roms aren't upgraded for most games and 1.0 is all you need, so I guess I listed it that way out of habit. I got excited thinking it was an undumped version for a second.

The actual latest versions are:
U7 v4.29
U17 v4.23
U21 v4.23

Hit refresh on that page...and you are now upgraded.

The important question is....what version is your CPU/Display?

#5410 1 year ago

Now I'm curious what changed. My board was handy since I went Pinsound, which is probably the version you want lol....Out of curiosity I just checked and I was running 4.23 for all 3 chips before I pulled the board so maybe I can add that one if anyone wants to downgrade lol.

#5413 1 year ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Hi, my other sound roms are both v4.23 just like you have listed.
My cpu and display roms are both blank, but I managed to get the info from the diagnostics. My ColorDMD seems to be working ok.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ah ok so you are running the latest official DE code already. You just need to experience chadh 6.0
You only need the CPU and Display chip to upgrade.

2 weeks later
#5574 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Say hello to my new friend . . . Lambchop. My T-Rex is really wishing I would fix his side-to-side movement now!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Where can I get one of the goats? I forgot about that guy lol

1 month later
#6245 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Hello everyone. Got some cool news (or at least I think its cool). lol
I am starting a YouTube channel that will be mostly dedicated to pinball restoration. Many of you have followed my restoration threads and I appreciate all the feedback. It's fun so I thought I would expand a little bit. I will still have my restore threads but I hope to add videos that compliment and show what and how I do things instead of just pictures.
Jurassic Park makes an appearance in one of my first videos as I show how to fix a Rottendog flipper board that I installed in my JP. Simple fix but it might help someone.
I have a few videos up and would appreciate any comments. Keep in mind that I am just starting this so I will get better. Please be gentle.

Awesome! I gave your channel a shout out on Facebook. Just wish you had started before you did JP lol

4 months later
#7070 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

As I recall the diodes were moved off the scoop switches there as the vibration would cause the diode connection to break.

Quoted from jdroc:

Bingo, switch in trough from control room, white on banded side of diode, white/green with another white/green and green/black on non -banded side[quoted image]

Service Bulletin 43 discusses this fix...but yes I feel I've seen/heard something about moving the diode off that assembly. Maybe it was the fix for the later serial numbers?

pasted_image (resized).png
3 months later
#7335 8 months ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

Some JP came also with black grid, a member of this forum is in this case,

has a JP with full black original speaker grid like mine.. how do you explain that?
Sega bought the compagny Data East in 1994 wich correspond to the date of the end of production of the pinball. The only thing i know, is that the person who sold it to me, is the first owner of this machine, and he told me that he never modded his machine.
I need to check the serial number.. but if i remember right, this is a "end production machine"

Yes, I have been on the quest for "legit official" dino speaker grills for 2 years now. I do not know if mine came from the factory like this, but just assumed it was from some previous repair or had something to do with mine being a reimport from Germany. Never really asked around as I felt my machine was the only one I'd seen in pictures or vids with plain black.

I too have been debating the sticker route or finding a mod like the ones pictured earlier, but the purist in me never reached out to the guy to ask if he could do the JP dinos lol.

#7342 8 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

If you like craft projects with the family, print out the photo to scale, cut out the dino shape for a little stencil, then remove and paint the metal screen using the sencil. (flip it over for the left side)
[quoted image]

My wife has a cricut...had been debating going that route but never actually sat down to go find the image and match the colors lol

1 week later
#7371 8 months ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

Well you got my attention! I have a friend who is going to make a high quality scan of his JP Grids to me, and i am not too bad at photoshop, mabe we could work together to make a vinyl cut with your cricut? i can make the files and send them to you, (would pay for post and Vinyl of course) what do you think? Send me a pm if you are interested

I meant for like a stencil...but I bet vinyl would be close after poking all the holes lol
Yeah if I can get it into SVG it's definitely a possibility

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