(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

59 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Data East / JP Ball Trough fix (#7) [Video] Posted by ChadH (10 years ago)

Post #98 Jurassic Park Ford Explorer [External Article] Posted by blondetall (10 years ago)

Post #138 Ball not entering gate at pop bumpers Posted by accidental (9 years ago)

Post #159 Creation Of Jurassic Park’s CGI Dinos [Article / Video] Posted by blondetall (9 years ago)

Post #162 Link to Loop Combo Scoop Mod Thread Posted by InfiniteLives (9 years ago)

Post #182 Link to CRT Mod Thead Posted by CraZyMuffin (9 years ago)

Post #209 Custom Apron Cards Posted by Pinballocks (9 years ago)

Post #322 Playfield Back Wood-Block acrylic mod Posted by smerff (9 years ago)

Post #357 Switch Matrix / Random No Target Scoring Bug Posted by ChadH (9 years ago)

Post #374 Link to Shaker Problem Thread Posted by aobrien5 (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5608 5 years ago

Morning All,

I came home with my first JP yesterday night and had a question regarding the 'T-Gate' -- is the ball supposed to go up the shooter lane, through the T-Gate and into the pop-bumpers? it seems to hit the t-gate and just head down the playfield - meaning unless I flipper-hit the ball into the pop-bumpers it doesn't actually go into that location.

#5610 5 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Yes it should go through into the pops but it was common for people to flip that gate around for some reason. Mine was like that when I got it too.

Thanks J-Freeze - I'll take a look!

#5614 5 years ago

Sorry to be a pest today everyone - but i'm trying to find that post regarding those wires on the underside of the playfield that need to be moved... for the life of me I can't find that post...

The ones that were strapped too close to another object and getting pinched...?

#5638 5 years ago

Hi All,

I'm looking to buy a high quality JP replacement plastics set - curious if there's a particularly well liked & respected place that the group prefers to buy them from?

#5644 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not sure if anyone has posted results for JP plastics from CPR since their move to digital printing. There's a company out of Europe who has an incomplete set, and I believe the review of their quality indicated they were unacceptable. The screen printed CPR sets have had generally positive reviews with the caveat that the blue is much darker than stock, necessitating swapping out all plastics. I don't think they're offering screen printed sets of them anymore, so new JP plastic purchases from CPR are likely from their on-demand digital printing process.

Thanks winteriscoming -- might be too expensive for my blood to buy the full set just yet, but I shall try it out in the future.

#5656 5 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Shout out to edward472 for making that location chart for all the lights.
I decided to take it one step further and map out every location with descriptions and a suggested LED type for those who are starting out from scratch.
The 2nd sheet is a pivot table to help break down the data into a more manageable count, it should make ordering easier.
Please have a look and let me know what you guys think. Thanks!
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VL6EY2foEy2GG9b4U24Dq6RRhcF-90cNPxoPHR_cUYE/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks man - will definitely use this.

#5664 5 years ago

Speaking to Mr_Tantrum 's post regarding Pinsound - I just got an email that says they're doing free worldwide shipping for the next 48 hours -- coupon code is WINGS -- if only I waited an extra 4 days before buying one

1 week later
#5741 5 years ago

For those with PinSound+ boards in their JP's -- did you all also install the DE Power Booster when you did your install?

The install video on their website doesn't mention it at all for this board, but did come inside the full DE pin sound package so I installed it with the board.... that's fine right?

#5743 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Yes. I did install the power booster. Works fine.

Thanks Pinbear

#5780 5 years ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?
I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.

I have the same sort of issue with mine - however it didn't go into the pop-bumpers, it hit the green post just north of the pop-bumper entry gate (and has created a wear-down-spot there).

I re-leveled the game from left to right and then inclined the game a bit and now it seems to either go into the pop-bumper area or loose momentum, hit the t-gate and roll back towards the flippers.

I shouldn't remove the t-gate correct? anything else I should be trying?

#5781 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Finally!
Here is a quick installation guide, based on Mr. Tantrum's summary.
1) Tin all of the leads on the opto board (very crucial to do this before you install).
2) Put pin in service mode, eject all 6 balls then turn pin off.
3) De-solder all wires from 6 trough switches.
4) Remove both screws from all switches to remove them (set two aside to use for mounting opto board).
5) Mount opto board with backing in place (3D printed protector that came with the board) using 2 screws taken from removed switches (opto board mounting holes aligned with two of the existing threaded bracket holes). In case of offset between ball trough hole and board hole, increase the diameter of board hole (smaller than screw head).
6) Install your +12V DC power source. If the package contains opto board harness:
Unplug original CN2 female connector from sound board.
Plug original CN2 female to Z connector end on opto harness.
Switch on the pin. Make sure that nothing is connected to CN2 on sound board yet.
For double check, measure the voltage levels (12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V), and polarity at the end of harness (6 pin IDC or Molex) according to CN2 legend on sound board. The harness has polarity pin - this check is for 200% safety.
When everything is fine, power off. Plug opto harness to CN2 position on sound board.
7) Solder power wire to power pads on board (make sure neutral and positive are correct)
8) Turn power on to insure power is going to opto board (orange LED is on) and turn back off.
9) Solder green/white pairs to appropriate station on the board. You don't need to install diodes.
10) Turn on pin and manually test optos, making slight adjustments where needed then turn off pin.
11) Lower playfield completely, power on. Go to service menu, and check the operation: empty the ball trough few times. Carefully adjust optos, if required.
12) Success. Play a game!

Davi -- thanks for the opt board and the instructions - question though regarding using this board with the CN2 hardness from the soundboard....

I've installed a Pinsound+, along with the pinsound Data East power booster Splitter -- should I be worried about adding an additional item to this power source? is there a particular order in which this additional harness should be installed? The power booster is currently installed between CN4 on the sound board and CN2 on the pinsound board.

#5783 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

You can't use the opto harness the way I've designed. The Date East power booster replaces the 12V to 18V to avoid sound cut, and use only 5V from original CN2 connector. So in your case, you need 18V and 5V for Pinsound, and 12V for opto board. After some research and drawings, here is my suggestion.
Power off.
1. Unplug 6 way power booster Molex from sound board.
2. Remove original CN2 IDC from power booster harness (Z connector end).
3. Plug original CN2 to opto board harness (Z connector end).
4. Plug 6 way opto board connector to power booster Z connector.
Power on.
4. Now you have to read following voltages:
DE power booster: 18V (blue), unused, unused, unused, ground (black), 5V (red). Make sure that red connector gets 5V, otherwise you can damage the soundboard!
Opto harness: 12V, unused, unused, -12V, ground, 5V.
If every value is OK, plug power booster back to Pinsound.
Maybe with drawing my explanation is more clear, and I hope there is 100% compatibility between connectors.[quoted image]

Thank you Davi -- I don't currently have anything that will read the voltages from the connectors, so I will need to purchase something to triple check your numbers and then try it out.

#5785 5 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No need to spend a ton on a multi-meter. Probably can pick something up at Walmart, Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Even better if you have a Harbor Freight close by (they have one for $6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html).
Here are some examples on Amazon for around $10 or less.
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

Thank's Mr_Tantrum

#5788 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Buy one with audible continuity function, this is very useful function to find shorts or check continuity.

Thanks Davi

Quoted from 7oxford:

I had to move the pin again and so did a check on the levels today. They are out quite a bit left to right. Will move it into the games room on the weekend and set up all the levels. Hopefully no issues after this.

If you ball is losing momentum, perhaps check the plunger to see if it is shooting the ball straight. You can take a slow motion video with your phone. If the plunger is not firing straight the ball will hit the side wall before the bend and lose speed.

7oxford - Thanks, I will check it -- is there a way to make sure its firing straight...?

#5810 5 years ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

If you have an iPhone put the camera in SLO-MO mode and record a plunge. Then during playback you can edit and slow down the video at the time of ball release. If the plunger is off center the ball will bounce off the walls of the channel. The video link above shows mine shooting straight.
Other phones may have a similar function.

Sorry, yes I understand the video part - just not sure how to fix it if it’s not hitting it straight.

#5849 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but it they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

Mr_Tantrum - great idea! post a pic!

2 weeks later
#6086 4 years ago

Can we just all agree that after this awesome T-rex sign thing, someone does up 3D printed Gennaro on the toilet mod to put next to our ball-eating trex?

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#6100 4 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Gotcha, I’ll print it out tonight with some provisions to mount the existing flasher and see how I can make it work. I have the day off tomorrow so I’ll have a chance to play around with it some more.
Appreciate everyone’s feedback on this design.
Also I have v2 of the electric fence working with yellow EL wire tied into the bumper flashers so I’ll try to get that installed alongside it.
I have a third project on the go to replace the launcher flat plastic cover (the purple/yellow gun piece). I printed out v1 yesterday. Hopefully I’ll have it wired up this weekend. I think it’s a small cool looking mod.
Also worked on your gate harryhoudini I started wiring it up last night so should have it done soon.
This game is keeping me busy!

Geteos -- Pics of the gun launch replacement! Definitely interested in the T-rex sign as well.

2 months later
#6730 4 years ago

Am I the only one legitimately shocked at Sterns new JP announced today?

Like I get that I’m perpetrating some sort of toxic fandom for the older machine - and hey I have my beefs with the OG Machine as well - but like no characters except Nedry? No JP music? What’s with that Jeep?!

I REALLY wanted to love this one and put it side by side with my DE but how can I?

I truly don’t believe that stern is unaware of the fan backlash, and like ok fine maybe the license is crazy expensive at this point - but like couldn’t you do a kickstarter to help raise money for like some kinda Uber-JP machine if you’re worried about recouping costs? I imagine a ton of people subscribed to this forum would’ve been like ‘holy shit - Jeff goldblum doing call outs / shut up and take my money’.

Maybe this is absolutely stupid on my part - and I would gladly still like to try the game - but I’m shocked that in this day and age something like this, with the fandom and passion this franchise spawns, would be so.... poorly executed.

On the Instagram post they say that this one is ‘for the kids’ - but guys, this is a movie that is from the early 90s, yeah kids love dinosaurs but this is clearly a nostalgia grab mixing the first 3 films and skipping JW (which today’s kids would know for sure) entirely - just look at the digital pinball machines that JP and JW inspired - even something a quarter close to the things on those tables (converted to physical limitations of course) would’ve flown off the shelves.

Am I wrong? Is anyone thinking of buying this thing?

I apologize for loosing my mind like this as nothing really illicit’s this kind of response from me (as it’s just a game and not a lifesaving) but I saw it this morning and like immediately wanted to grab a woman named Karen and go speak to the manager.

#6733 4 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I'm buying it. From what I understand it is not based on the movie but takes place after the movie.

If it’s after the movie, why is nedry on the machine then?

Legitimately though, once you get it, please do a review of the machine - I’m very curious.

2 weeks later
#6801 4 years ago

Has the pleasure to try out the new game at Cabin Fever here in Toronto and must say I’m pleasantly surprised - especially the animations.

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2 months later
#7084 4 years ago

Shout out to Mr_Tantrum for the Barbasol mod - this thing looks fantastic!

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2 weeks later
#7109 4 years ago

Does anyone have a trex tongue decal that would work to replace the stock one? Something like the winteriscoming ’s replacement decal?

#7111 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

The official one is at Marco's:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6030-05
If you want to DIY, they're providing a good enough pic that you could print your own on sticker paper and laminate it with packing tape or something.

Which is the one you use? I thought it was different

#7113 4 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I designed my own to go along with the improved t-rex, but it's not one I plan to share publicly. For the stock t-rex, since it doesn't have teeth, the original is probably more appropriate being that the decal has teeth on it.

Ah, totally understandable - I just didnt like the look of the teeth on that OEM sticker.

4 weeks later
#7148 4 years ago

Thought the club might get a kick outta a different kind of JP pinball - JP Pachinko from Japan.

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1 month later
#7268 4 years ago

Question regarding turning around the 'shoot T-rex when lit' sign -- do you guys just unscrew the right most screw and turn it to face forward? is there a particular you prefer to screw in once turned to keep it from moving or does she just sit loose on that side?

#7273 4 years ago

Took my apron off for the first time and noticed there’s two screws missing on the shooting rod mech - are these two mounting holes supposed to have screws or are they traditionally empty on JP?

Apologies for the noob question

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#7274 4 years ago

Turns out that adding both finally allows the balls to enter the gate everytime — ive never considered checking for screws, I’d always though it was ‘is the game level’

#7276 4 years ago

Does anyone have a line on a sticker for the previously unseen side of the OG ‘t-rex’ box?

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#7279 4 years ago

Question regarding Service Bulletin 54 --

I realigned my flipper angle on my lower-left-flipper two days ago and suddenly the flipper will stop working all together at random.

If I physically move the flipper up while holding the left button it will eventually engage and play a few more rounds but will eventually die again and not respond. When I do hold the button the flipper is definitely getting power and if I physically move it up it will stay up and the hold in the up position is strong.

I've purchased a flipper rebuild kit and am waiting for it to arrive, but was wondering about replacing my flipper board like SB54 suggests -- I've got 520-5033-03 in my game currently and upon googling replacement board 520-5076-00 I came across this:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5076-00

It is listed as a 'Stern' on Marcos -- has anyone used this board? any issues?

Is there a better solution to SB54 than this board replacement?

#7280 4 years ago

Has anyone installed the new Cliffy set in their JP's?

In particular -- has anyone with winteriscoming 's rex tried the T-Rex cliffy? does his rex come near the edge of the cliffy? wondering about the two being used together and if they've come to damage each other in anyway.

#7285 4 years ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

Thank you! i will definitly have a check on that.

Have you got the link? can't find it and curious about it

What do you mean by that? the T-Rex's cliffy is scratching it?

Cliffy's stuff is here: http://www.passionforpinball.com/protectors.htm

I emailed him via his site and he put a package together of the redesigned set of 3, plus the t-rex saucer cliffy and the launch lane cliffy's.

And as for the T-rex cliffy scratching the physical rex toy -- to be honest, I haven't installed mine in the game yet but the others are fantastic -- but I just remember the t-rex mod install video and winteriscoming was adamant about checking the placement and movement of his rex so I was curious if anyone with their rex mod had issues or had tried this cliffy out. But judging from @chitownpinball's mention, I don't think he'll be trying it anytime soon LOL

#7286 4 years ago

At random my game has started popping up with this 'To Adjust Replay Push Start' upon powering up... has anyone seen this before? anything I can do to fix? anything I need to worry about?

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#7288 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Your average score is too low. The game offers here to lower the replay value.

Davi and here I was worried about some electrical problem (having lots of issues lately), thankfully i'm just terrible at my game!!!

#7310 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Make sure the flipper coil wires are secure on the coil, not cracked a little. Same goes for the wires on the End of Stop (EOS) switch there, make sure the wires are secure, and also make sure the EOS switch contacts are clean.

Neal_W - thank you sir.

4 months later
#7879 3 years ago

I noticed in one of the recent posts that there’s a metal wire type post/divider here dividing the outlane (attached to the screw just above) — is this normal? Do many people have this post in their machine or is it an addition?

Am trying to source the original pic I’ve seen

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#7880 3 years ago

Apologies to Mr_Tantrum — this was the pic that I noticed it for the first time:

Do many have this in their game? Is it standard?

Mr_Tantrum — did you add yours in?

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#7885 3 years ago

thanks all -- Looks like im missing them...

If anyone has 2 extra of this wire lane boundaries, i'd be interested in purchasing them.

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#7888 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No wonder you haven't been able to beat the high score.

LOLOL - I thought I just sucked.

Thanks so much for finding it, its much appreciated.

#7890 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, Marcos has free shipping this week if you order over $100.

Thanks - sadly I’m in Canada and it’s 40$ shipping at a minimum so I’m gonna see if someone has some they’d like to sell as I can’t justify that shipping cost

#7893 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That’s crazy. Would cost me about $26 to buy them and ship to you.

PM'd

Quoted from chubtoad13:

Have you thought about making a set yourself?
All you would need is some needle nose pliers and some wire. You can buy the wire at most home improvement and hobby stores.

That would be the next option for me if I can't find the factory part.

thanks for your help all!

#7898 3 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

You might want to try asking in this thread as well
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/canada-pinball-parts-wtblts-official-thread
But I agree shipping with Marco sucks to Canada. Something that was $7.00 to ship to my buddy in Nevada was $55.00 to get it to me direct from Marco. Pinball life is somewhat better.

Thanks jesperpark

#7925 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yep, one of the changes I made when I acquired my JP was to disable high score reset.

I didn't know this was a thing... I only ever messed with 'Free Play' -- changed adjustment 29 last night.

Outta curiosity, are there any other adjustments people like to change on their own games?

1 month later
#8029 3 years ago

Anyone try installing the Stern JP Art blades into a DE JP? any issues? does it fit?

#8031 3 years ago

Thanks - those aren't the Stern ones for the new JP machine though.

1 year later
#8977 2 years ago

New pin cover courtesy of Zavvi!

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5 months later
#9193 2 years ago

Hello Friends - long time! wondered if I might bounce an issue off the group to inspire a new direction of thinking for a flipper issue i've been having.

I hadn't played my DE JP in sometime (never moved, just sat where it's been for the last 2+ years) and when I finally turned it on, the lower right flipper was weak and wouldn't stay engaged -- I thought maybe a flipper rebuild would be in order so I did one this evening and while the flipper itself is definitely more responsive it definitely isn't as strong as it should be (even audibly it doesn't sound as strong as the upper right or the lower left flippers). Worth noting is that the upper right and lower left flippers have always played as they should.

Here's what I've done to trouble shoot:

- I noticed some discolouration on the right side flipper button leafswitch that controls both upper and lower right side flippers, so I cleaned the contacts with isopropyl alcohol (tons of grime came off) but the lower right flipper remained half powered and semi responsive.

- The flipper board registers the button pushes (red lights blink on with the flipper buttons are depressed).

- I've checked the fuses on flipper board (and throughout) and none appear to be blown.

- The backbox cabling as well as all cabling in and around the front end of the game all appear connected and ok.

- Did a rebuild job on the lower right flipper and triple checked the matching of the coil numbering as well as all the soldering/cable placements.

Is it possible my flipper board is pooched somehow? I might have the original one that came with the machine to test (nothing was wrong with it, I just upgraded the board as per the flipper board service bulletin from years ago - the EOS switch one).

If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated and I can post pics/videos of everything if that would make anything easier.

Thanks everyone,

Johnny

#9195 2 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Since you rebuilt the flipper, that should eliminate mechanical issues. Couple of common electrical problem areas to check:
- Fuse clips on the flipper board. Make sure the clips are not broken and all of the fuses are held tightly in the clips.
- EOS switch on the flipper assembly. Is it clean and gapped correctly? Is there any difference if you jumper the switch contacts?

I triple checked the fuse clips throughout the machine and found nothing out of the ordinary.

The EOS switch also looked good (was replaced during rebuild).

Oddly - this morning I thought the back side of the solder job on the flipper coil looked thin so I added some and it *seems* to be working correctly now - even audibly it sounds correct now. Guess I’ll play some games and see what happens.

#9197 2 years ago

Does anyone have the CPR Mirrored backglass? if so, thoughts? pics?

1 week later
#9207 2 years ago

Hello Everyone -- For anyone curious, I pulled the trigger on the CPR Mirrored JP backglass and thought I would share my findings incase anyone else was curious.

Pics below are a side by side and what it looks like in my machine.

In terms of a review - I would say that the colors definitely feel more vibrant, especially the sky and Rex. However I find that the mirror effect is kinda lost during gameplay. Worth noting is that it shipped really quickly, and was packaged incredibly well. Overall I would say that while it does look pretty good, unless you're missing the translite, I don't know think I would recommend this as a 'must buy' mod -- I kinda fell in love with @mr_tantrum's custom mirrored backless, so I wanted to give this one a try however I find it lacks the 'wow' factor of his custom job.

If anyone wants additional pics, vids etc just lemme know.

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5 months later
#9549 1 year ago
Quoted from mikespins:

My neighbor's JP had a broken sculp that we looked to replace for months, with no luck (they are impossible to find). Just when we were about to give up, we decided to get creative. I designed and 3D printed a mount for this readily available sculp and we are all happy! Check it out. If anyone is looking to replace their sculp, you can here - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1378-mikes-3d-things/07300-jurassic-park-mosquito-sculp-replacement
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Wow, this looks great! can you post more pics of the item? possibly video of it in play?

#9550 1 year ago
Quoted from System-J:

Hey JP OG club,
I just uploaded a new Pinsound Sound Package to the pinsound community:
https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/388-de-jp-ost-hybrid-system-j/
Quoting myself:
"This is a quick fix, tweeks and a hybrid of the EndProdukt version and the original.
fixed: getting double "welcome to jurassic park" triggers
'hybrid': reverted shootout (use the launch gun trigger for bonuses when video appears) back to Legacy (EndProdukt version was a bit quiet and easy to miss).
Lots of small changes and condensing. I got rid of some of the quotes that bugged me a bit. I think I added a few new or edited voice files as well."
It's a precursor to one I'm currently finishing up. I might have it up in a few weeks but want to do some more testing before I share it.
I hope you guys lucky enough to have a Pinsound board in your JP enjoy it.

Tried your mix this morning, great start - I really liked the random Nedry during 'match'. Cant wait to try the finished one.

6 months later
#9783 11 months ago

Hi everyone - wondering if the control room switch is prone to fail/require replacement?

Have had the game a few years now and all of a sudden the switch almost never activates when a ball goes into the ‘A - control room’ hole. Pressing the switch I can barely hear the click but I thought I’d check with you all as I’ve never had to replace a switch before (in the event this is a bigger issue that I’ve never encountered).

Thanks for your help and advice.

IMG_0009 (resized).jpegIMG_0009 (resized).jpegIMG_0010 (resized).jpegIMG_0010 (resized).jpeg
#9787 11 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Did you put the machine in switch test to see if the switch registers? If it registers, then you need to bend the switch actuator a bit to make it register more consistently when the ball goes over it.

Quoted from woody24:

One common issue with that is that the ball actually jumps OVER the switch. The ball goes into the scoop and when it hits the bottom, with the angle of the subway, it bounces over the switch. My machine actually came with a piece of rubber that wont allow the ball to bounce, so I never had that issue before. It was only until I was helping someone else with their JP that I realized what was happening.
So if the switch is actually working when you test it, try to put something at the bottom of the hole that will stop the bounce of the ball.

Quoted from scootss:

Yes. This is part one of the answer (as long as the switch can be activated by hand).
Part 2 is that your machine is missing the recommendation from this service bulletin of putting silicone around the switch to reduce the likelihood of the diode breaking.
https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb43.pdf
Essentially, you need to put goop around the switch to insulate it. It should look like it has chewing gum around it when you’re done.

Thanks all -- the switch has stopped responding during gameplay (whereas it was at least randomly intermittent before), switch test isn't registering so I'll get a new switch and diode from pinball life to install.

Ive never seen a DE JP with a piece of rubber in the control room hole, do you have a pic for reference?

In terms of putting silicone around the switch -- do you have a reference pic for this? I came across a post where someone said they used a hot-glue gun to seal the solder on the switch posts - would that work?

#9790 11 months ago
Quoted from Joshjowen:

Yes, I'd just get a new switch. It is one of the most important switches on the machine. Pinball Life has them for cheap.

Thanks!

#9791 11 months ago

outta curiosity -- 'Silicone Rubber Compound' -- would a few dabs from a glue gun work or is there something in particular I should be using?

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