My instruction card refers to the Computer Room instead of the Control Room as starting the different modes - Stampede, etc. Has anyone else noticed that? I am pretty sure I have an original Instruction card.

DearLiza - Did you replace the IDT connector? Also, there appears to be corrosion on your circuit board. Did the batteries leak at some time? The corrosion should be cleaned up, as it will continue to grow and cause more problems in the future.

RA 4 is a resistor array - I doubt that it's bad.

Great Plains Electronics is a good source.

Check to see if the voltages are at the bulbs and work your way back to the board. I had a bad pin at a Z connector that was causing me to lose the top GI lights on the backboard.

It should definitely have a three prong plug.

Chalky -

You have a break in line somewhere. Verify you have the twelve volts on the lower lamps - keep working your way back toward the backbox until you find your voltage, then you will know where the issue is.

Also verify the power is going thru the Z connector - that's where I had an issue.

Jenniebear -

My machine does close to the same thing after a game, but on mine, the sound continues, then after it ends, the display comes back, and the machine is ready to go. The DMD seems to be off for an excruciating long time, but it is probably not that long. I have noticed that if I start a game while the DMD is blank, the game will start after the DMD reappears.

It might be an issue with the game roms, Chad's updates would probably fix it, but I haven't gone that route. I just live with it for now.

Next time the DMD blanks, let it sit for a minute and see if it comes back on its own and report back. Others may have better ideas.

Texas - This may not be relevant to your issue, but I had the same issue with my IJ. I found I could get a lot of them going by reversing the bulbs in the holder. The other thing I found was the "ears" on the holders had lost their spring, so they were not making good contact with the lands on the circuit board. I had to replace those with new ones. You can find expensive ones at auto parts stores - if you need more than a few, its cheaper to order from any of the regular parts suppliers.

One in St. Louis, Mo. Craigslist. Disclaimer: I have not seen it.

stlouis.craigslist.org link

DikkRambone -
Search this thread - I had the same issue, and I found a bad connection on a Z plug. I think I documented it on this thread.

Found it - post #3780

Chalky -

You have a break in line somewhere. Verify you have the twelve volts on the lower lamps - keep working your way back toward the backbox until you find your voltage, then you will know where the issue is.

Also verify the power is going thru the Z connector - that's where I had an issue.

Glad you found the problem. On mine, the burned pins on the Z connector were not obvious.

PM sent

Did you try reversing (turn the lamp 180 degrees) and reinstall?

Make sure you eat your Wheaties before attempting to attach the bungee. They can be pretty hard, especially when holding the playfield steady with one hand.

It's called a roll pin - don't remember the size, but it should be in the bottom of the machine. Take it to a hardware store - they may have the right size to replace it.

Try cleaning your EOS and flipper contacts again. On mine, the set of contacts on the flipper button were not "square" and the amount of contact surface area must have been too small to carry enough current.

Replace the plug cap - its easy, and there's lots of instructions around here on how to do it safely. Just a couple of bucks to fix properly.

Sounds like you have trough switches right on the edge. See if you can make the switch make a little sooner when the hall rolls over it or sits on it. This would entail bending the actuator arm just a wee bit

Johnjn -

Repost your question on the new JP thread. This is the Data East JP thread.

Check/replace the capacitors on the sound board, along with checking the power supply voltages and connectors as suggested above. You will need a voltmeter.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega is the place to go for info.

A capacitor tester is a different device than a multimeter. Since you don't have one, look closely at the capacitors. Are any swollen or blown apart? Are there crystals around or under a capacitor - that would indicate the capacitor has leaked and needs replaced.

Using the voltmeter, you put one lead on ground, and the other on the test points on the board - the schematic will show the expected voltages. Make sure you know whether you're looking at DC or AC voltages and set the meter accordingly.

You should not need new coils. Replace the rubber on the flippers while you’re at it.

Sgorsuch

There’s an aftermarket eprom that helps game play - instead of the modes always starting on stampede, the mode starts are random. There are other things, but to me that is the biggest.

Mr DNA happens after you hit sets of drop targets or modes - I don’t remember which. Mr DNA is available when the green light above the scoop is lit.

Look at Barbie accessories

While you're borrowing tools, the header pins for the connector should be replaced, too, otherwise, in the future you will be replacing the connector again. Since the connector pins and wires burned, there's no reason not to think that the header pins are burned, too.

For future reference, any time you have burned pins or connectors, both sides should be replaced at the same time.

Use ohms for checking fuses, not the beep.

You’ve lost the five volts - after checking the fuses, pull out your schematic and work your way back from the test point. It’s possible you have a bad fuse holder or a bad rectifier.

A schematic is your friend and can help you troubleshoot.

Debian

Go to pinwiki and read up on how to check your power supply voltages. It sounds like you lost your 6 volts.

Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points. Hopefully, you have the schematics and parts drawings to help.

Look closely at CN8 and other connectors to make sure there's no evidence of burning.

Check the wiring and the board that feeds the lamps in case the problem is on the board.

Please post a pic of the coil and wiring, and if there's a diode on the coil, make sure we can see it. Include in the pics the End of Stroke switch. The EOS either opens or closes when the flipper is all the way up (extended).

Check your connections on the flipper driver board to the left flipper. The board is on the left hand side of the cabinet. A lot of times, the board will get raked by a dropped playfield. It’s possible that happened to yours and a connection became weak.

How much up and down movement do you have on the flipper shaft compared to the right flipper? Just trying to figure out if you're binding.

There’s a x connector that feeds the back box gi lights. Verify that connector is good

The short answer is yes.

Check the “Z” connector for burned pins. I’ve attached two pics to show what I’m referring to. On my machine, part of the gi was out because of a bad in in the connector.

Follow the cable from the door, you should see the connector.

17D8FBED-7987-4DD3-A4F9-36EA5F1EB4DC (resized).jpeg

F698990D-86D9-4995-9093-F76B2A0DC44F (resized).jpeg

Sure, but you will end up with a unicorn, and in the future, someone will be wondering what the heck is this hack?

But before you do that, make sure the problem is with the Z connector. Also, did you make sure the bulbs are all OK? I've heard stories of something blowing out all the bulbs - usually by crossing wires and putting say 43 volts on the 6 volt rail.

Note the Z connector between the connectors. In that example picture, its possible those pins in the Z connector are toast and you would need a new connector.

1N4007 would be fine

It sounds like you have low voltage when other devices are turned on. Another thing to check, breakers tend to get weak after they trip (open) many times. It is possible your breaker is weak.

Your 3KW source should allow you to pull about 13 amps - assuming 220 VAC. I don't know what the surge current is when powering up JP - its possible you reach the trip point with other stuff on. Try varying the starting sequence of what you turn on first - JP, then jukebox, then mood lights, etc. See if changing the sequence reduces your problems.

Just for grins, do you have an amp meter to check what JP is pulling? An analog meter is best to see if you have a high surge current.

Have you checked all of your power supply voltages, including the amount of AC ripple on the DC side?

Dustwel - check the switch under the playfield. It may have worked itself loose.

Dustwel - are the two screws holding the switch tightly? It may be the camera angle, but when the switch actuator is pushed down by the ball, does it hit the white/green wire?

Replace the switch on the machine - should be able to find something that will fit.

Just an off the wall thought - did you run a switch test?

Also, if the ROM is corrupt again, it must be getting some backfeed from whatever its feeding off of the board - something on the playfield shorting from one voltage to another?

Just ideas, and shooting in the dark. I'm not really sure what to think on this. Following

You’re voltage 220vac? If so, you could use 5 amp, but 10 amp would give you a lot more room.

Before installing Chad’s code(which is very easy -power off, remove the original chip, install Chad’s chip), I suggest you play the machine with the original code for awhile so you can really see the difference in codes once you switch.

Since you're at 220 VAC, using 200 watts, you would be pulling around 1 amp, so a 5 amp switch would be just fine.

Your math is correct.

If a switch is subject to higher amps than it is rated for it will get hot due to the contacts in the switch melting, and probably start smoking as it continues to burn. By the time the switch starts burning, it likely shorts, and your outlet protection should kick in and trip the house breaker.

I don't think you will need to worry about using the 5 amp switch - just make sure the 5 amps is at 220 VAC.

Did you test the diode? Test all of the trough switches, too. It sounds like one of them is not showing up closed when a ball is on it.

You may be able to see which one in the switch tests.

Preacher- since the problem is intermittent, this will be a difficult problem to figure out.

What else is on the circuit and operating when this happens? (This would include stuff that is on but appears off, such as TVs, etc.). Turn all that stuff off before turning on JP so as to isolate the problem to JP or something else.

Is the breaker that trips a GFI? If so, look at replacing the line filter. This is based on a recent thread where the GFI was tripping.

Good luck.

ScoobaDoo - since you’re ordering fuses and have not figured what what blew it( or them if you’re still troubleshooting), consider ordering circuit breakers of various sizes, too. They really come in handy when troubleshooting. There’s fewer things more irritating than running out of fuses while troubleshooting.

Did you put the machine in switch test to see if the switch registers? If it registers, then you need to bend the switch actuator a bit to make it register more consistently when the ball goes over it.

Woody - not sure how long you will have to store it, but if it has batteries, don't forget to take them out beforehand.

Have fun with the baby - they will grow up fast.

Did you check the fuses first? For that many to die all at once points that way.

F1, 5 & 6 on the PPB, F2 on the backbox. I am not near my machine to see if there's a fuse under the playfield.

Bowtech - here’s a pic

IMG_0009 (resized).jpeg