I'll let you shop mine out High End Pin-style, if you're really itchin' for such a task.

The last two times I have heard the CHAOS mode callout, I have used the smart missile. After all of the balls drain, I see the dinosaur walking across the DMD that you shoot...then it says something about a victory mode and shooting the ramp. That mode has a countdown that usually gets to about 10 seconds left before it finally kicks out a ball for me to shoot with the gun/plunger. I've never had any issues with the game not recognizing that there are no balls in play, other than these two instances. Before installing the new code, I only got to Chaos mode a few times, but none ever had this odd sequence after I had drained all of the balls during Chaos mode. Any idea what's going on here?

Everything else works fine. Other multiball events don't have any issues.

More pins on location in Indiana is always a good thing.

This was an idea from a while ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-inner-art-decals

Trying to fix a reset issue that has come up and I read over the causes outlined in the JP resetting section here:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#reset

Before I read through that, it seemed like one of the grounding braids in the back box was coming loose and instantly causing my reset issue. Looking closer at the wingnut that is holding the grounding braid, I see that the metal tab it is connected to floats--it isn't secured to the bottom of the back box. Is that how it's supposed to be? The pictures are of the wingnut/grounding braid/metal tab connection on both sides.

I haven't had this issue before and it doesn't seem to happen during multiball, which was one instance where the site linked above mentioned. Usually, I can play one full game and it resets at "Welcome to Jurassic Park" at the start of game #2.

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The LAH I just got has muffled sounds with what looks like OEM speakers compared to my JP that has a Pinball Pro speaker installed under the playfield. My Demolition Man (Pyramid speaker under the playfield) and JP have noticeably better sound (the sounds are "fuller" for lack of a better term) than any of my other games, including Metallica that has an amplifier installed in it...but I assume that was paired with a sub woofer before I owned it. Not sure if any of this is relevant since I don't know much about speakers, but maybe some of it is useful information. I'm thinking of upgrading my LAH sound, but not sure if the Pinball Pro would give me the same results as what is going on with JP.

Probably a dumb question (more of a sanity check) about adjusting your T-Rex. I've bent the two metal "teeth" on the lower jaw as shown in your video and I've got it to the point where in a game it will pick up the ball by trapping it between the upper and lower "teeth" but not actually get it all the way into its mouth. It can carry the ball pinched between the upper and lower "teeth" to its fully upright position, but the ball doesn't go in T-Rex's mouth. Does that mean I need to bend the lower teeth even more?

Just that time. Gotta do it every time you turn on the game.

Going back to this post, so the data(? probably the wrong term for it) required for a hobbyist to attempt a ColorDMD conversion of JP are only possessed by the ColorDMD people? I was talking with my brother-in-law about the ColorDMD in my Metallica and said the hobbyists are clamoring for someone to get it working on JP. He, being a huge fan of the game and possessing software data tinkering know-how (sorry, I'm not on his level to properly explain his credentials), said he'd like to take a shot at it.

Hold your applause until he has pictures of it working and installed!

Hmm...well, he's probably not going to contact them. I think we were assuming there was a way to do it using a more "open-source" way. I guess if that were possible, it would've already been done (which it has, to an extent).

What I don't understand in my bit of forum searching on the topic:
Why is there not a more concise, newbie-friendly package as opposed to just a diy kit that kinda fits and sorta does the job?
What do they (ColorDMD) have that makes them the bottleneck in the process? Technology? Licensing?

Not trying to ruffle feathers, I'm just trying to understand why it all begins and ends with them saying they aren't taking on more projects. I mean, they had time for Popeye (yes it's Bally so that's easier), but no time to allow a someone to take a crack at JP?

I'm in bizznazz! I'm rich! Send money today, buy buy, buy--now, now, now!

This fence look makes sense because the gate is on the playfield. It kinda connects the theme with the fence leading to the gate and then the other side could also be more fence with a different dino, landscaping, or other point of interest beyond the fence. Actually since it would be the left side it could be the Timmy on the fence scene.

You should look into the acrylic sign cover type things that go in front of your condom'd scoop lights. Not sure who made them, but they look good if you're into extra signage. Might be hard to see, but this is the only picture I have handy at the moment. They're above each scoop.

Found who does them LoopCombo:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/14#post-2550016

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Shots fired ChadH

The "dude in his garage" made Data East's Star Wars and Jurassic Park way better games to play. Baywatch too, I believe.

I recommend at least saving up for the 3-D printed gate. Either static or moving doors, but anything other than a flat plastic. Instantly makes that area pop. There was something else in that picture that could be changed out too...but you'd have to ^^^ take that up with whomever that might be ^^^.

Amazon

Think of all the early solid state pins you could buy!

...unrelated, I still need to get ColorDMD for this game...

To add on to this, if the left/right motor is weak or failing, it can be disabled and not affect game play. On mine, it seemed that T-Rex would move a bit slow to the left or right sometimes and not be ready to eat the ball. At that point, it makes sense to forget the side to side movement in favor of always being ready to pick up the ball.

While rebuilding things, you might rebuild the VUK (just below the upper right flipper) since unloved JP's can have a problem with the up kicker not getting the ball enough oomph to fire the ball up and keep things going. Originally, mine would sometimes take a few kicks before the ball was sent on its way. Nary a problem with it since the rebuild.

Installed the trough opto board and it all seems to work fine except the far left LED isn't lighting. In test mode, all six balls are recognized and if I back that final ball up with my finger, the test will count back to five balls, then back to six balls as I let the ball go back into its resting spot. In game, it loses count of the balls during multiball. I've soldered and resoldered the connections and tried adjusting the opto for that ball, so what's the fix here?

Hmm...nevermind, I guess. I fixed it by loosening the screw next to it by two turns. NICE.

Several hours later and I'm still messing with mounting this board to get it so every light is lit. In game, the shaker is rattling the mount loose since I don't have a drill to widen the hole and I broke one of the small screws off inside the hole where it mounts to. All because the mounting holes don't line up...

I'm still trying to break 500 million. My main hang-up is that I can't collect the tri-ball jackpots. When I actually do, then I can't hit the CHAOS shots.

Nice to see my strategy with the smart missile is in line with everyone else. Now I just have to be clutch with my shots.

I'm not sure if it's possible, but an electric fence mod would be best if it ran the course of the ramp, starting in the back and running up the left side. It would have to be thinner and likely a bit shorter than the one posted above.

That would work, but would it be better for sight lines to have it along the outside of that ramp? I like your drawing just for it being longer. One section doesn't give much of a fenced-in appearance.

Only concern I have is if it will clutter everything up in that area--any way to remove the "Shoot T-Rex" box by combining it's signage and light alert into the fence as well? I see it as almost a single red alert light at the top of a fence post near the current "Shoot T-Rex" box area. I always thought that box was something that could be removed and the space repurposed.

Kinda like Walking Dead's fence mod?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/33#post-2967946

Women see color better than men. It's probably dark green.

Another under-appreciated item is to replace the coil sleeves on the coils for both slingshot assemblies. It adds an extra bit of action to that area which makes the game play a bit faster.

One is listed in Ohio for $2,600 here in the market. I see most people asking upper 3's and they don't even have a 3D printed gate or new T-Rex! They say it has MODS, but they're talking a papo raptor and some LED's. Neat. I could be a seller if that trend continues. On the bright side for us, maybe this will lead to an additional stream of useful mods that work on this JP as well.

Not feeling the Zen pinball animations on the new Stern. If you were born after the movie came out, then maybe that's up your alley.