(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • 10,109 posts
  • 572 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 minutes ago by Garrett
  • Topic is favorited by 236 Pinsiders

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There are 10,109 posts in this topic. You are on page 99 of 203.
#4901 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks Davi. That’s where I thought they were. Onnthat little board.
I notice too that that pop bumper only seems to light with a led installed.

Maybe its a bad led that is ghosting
Havd you put a incandecant in to test this?

#4902 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Welcome to Pinside! I see your from Columbia, SC. FYI - There is a fun tournament and league scene there, and in Greenville and Charleston as well, and I usually show up at the tournaments and there are a bunch of other cool folks. Placed 27th in the state last year and 16th the year before, so you can see the scene and talent is growing quickly. (you can check the IFPA calendar for more on that if interested)
Regarding price, a lot of it is being at the right place a the right time. You can see Pinside says $2500-2900. That is assumed a fairly nice condition, fully working pin at a private sale if you can track one down that cheap. A retailer would charge more to cover their overhead, etc. Maybe $3500+. A fully restored JP would be even more.
Players condition (fully working with significant playfield and cabinet wear) I guess would be around 2k or less. It all depends on condition, so beaters are less. Boards or things needing repair or parts missing would make it a project which is the best deal if your handy with tools and a soldering iron.
Someone might say - I dare you to show me a nice JP for 2500-2900, but they made 9008, so deals do come along.

I'm not so bold as to say I dare you to show me a deal, but I would say that you're not likely going to find a deal on an online listing anywhere because if you're seeing it, then someone else has, too, and it's as good as sold. JP is a popular pin, even if there are plenty of them out there. Another factor is distance. One can be for sale at a good price across the country, and you're potentially better off paying more for the one down the street.

The best option is to get into a network of players/collectors and find one from someone who hasn't yet listed it. That has worked out better for me than chasing down listings. I let my acquaintances know what I'm looking for and I hopefully hear about one through that network. I haven't even personally networked with that many people, but even the few that I'm connected with have yielded good results.

#4903 5 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Maybe its a bad led that is ghosting
Havd you put a incandecant in to test this?

I can’t seem to get an incandescent to light in it oddly enough.

It’s not really ghosting but fully lights when any other light on its row lights. And I’ve tried numerous other leds w it. Same thing.

#4904 5 years ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm not so bold as to say I dare you to show me a deal, but I would say that you're not likely going to find a deal on an online listing anywhere because if you're seeing it, then someone else has, too, and it's as good as sold. JP is a popular pin, even if there are plenty of them out there. Another factor is distance. One can be for sale at a good price across the country, and you're potentially better off paying more for the one down the street.
The best option is to get into a network of players/collectors and find one from someone who hasn't yet listed it. That has worked out better for me than chasing down listings. I let my acquaintances know what I'm looking for and I hopefully hear about one through that network. I haven't even personally networked with that many people, but even the few that I'm connected with have yielded good results.

This is exactly how I found mine. Here in Indiana, we have a Google group for Pinball players. I put a feeler out there stating that I was looking for a machine around the $X amount range, but I also mentioned that if anyone had a JP, I'd consider an offer knowing that it was probably going to be more than what I was looking to pay. I figured I'd have 2 or 3 machines between me getting a JP. Slowly working my way up to more expensive ones.

And I could not have been any luckier with the response I got. Someone had one and said they'd be willing to sell it to me for a good price (really good), under one condition, I didn't flip it. And it got even better, the guy only lived 5 minutes down the road from me.

So if you're looking for a JP, it may be worth making a post on as many local boards (craigslist, groups, etc) and see if someone has one? Then go from there. You may get lucky.

#4905 5 years ago

Thanks for the info guys. 2k-3k is where I need to be at to have the machine and stay married. Best of both worlds. I'll keep my eyes peeled. I have seen there is a league here in Columbia run by a local toys and game store. Wish I could get out there, but we just had a little one and he's taking up all our free time at the moment.

#4906 5 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

but we just had a little one and he's taking up all our free time at the moment.

Get used to that. Figure you wont have a lot of time to shop/repair a game, so buy accordingly.

#4907 5 years ago
?????

#4908 5 years ago

Just a joke. We agreed on a budget. If I blow the budget, I'll be on the couch.... but I'll have a pinball machine

#4909 5 years ago

worth it!

#4910 5 years ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

Would you mind letting us know what part number those slides are? Inused mantis but only after failing to find that type. I was under the impression they would hit the shaker and other things.

I used these.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1956

I added them to my Ironman VE aswell.

#4911 5 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Just a joke. We agreed on a budget. If I blow the budget, I'll be on the couch.... but I'll have a pinball machine

You can sleep under your pinball machine!

#4912 5 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

You can sleep under your pinball machine!

Get some blankets and make a really cool fort.

#4913 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

What's up with the way JP's playfield pulls out of the cab?? When pulling it out, I have to yank it over the pivots, and then I can raise it up all the way. But when putting it back in, I have to lift the ass end of the playfield while sliding it back into place.

Are they just a pain to deal with? or am I missing something?

Did you apply a small amount of grease on the metal glides?
I use brake grease/pinball grease.... It makes the playfield slide back and forth easier.
However, sometimes the metal is worn out and there really is nothing to do but to replace
the metal glide pieces.

#4914 5 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Get some blankets and make a really cool fort.

My wife wantend to talk to me About me being to childish....
The conversation couldn't take place
She didn't knew the password

384EBA9C-4616-415E-A76D-197D7218CE4C (resized).jpeg384EBA9C-4616-415E-A76D-197D7218CE4C (resized).jpeg

#4915 5 years ago

What is the experience with EnerGI Maestro in Jurassic Park? Go or no-go?

#4916 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

What is the experience with EnerGI Maestro in Jurassic Park? Go or no-go?

I've installed one in my Batman Forever. If you simply want to get rid of the noisy relay clicking with the lighting, this is worth getting.

The elimination of the flickering with LEDs and ability to control the lighting is of course it's main purpose, which is also very cool.

#4917 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

If you simply want to get rid of the noisy relay clicking with the lighting

Shoot. I just signed up for the waitlist. I could do without the clicking while in attract mode.

#4918 5 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Shoot. I just signed up for the waitlist. I could do without the clicking while in attract mode.

This completely gets rid of that!

#4919 5 years ago

Do it. It's worth it. No more relay click and no more blinding flashes especially during chaos MB. I love it.

#4920 5 years ago

Thanks for feedbacks, I am on the wait-list.

#4922 5 years ago

Just picked one up. Anyone sell a topper?

#4923 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Just picked one up. Anyone sell a topper?

Rock custom pinball

#4924 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Just picked one up. Anyone sell a topper?

Make sure you have clearance above the game.

#4925 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Rock custom pinball

Is it the original design?

#4926 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Is it the original design?

He molded it from the NOS original he gave me with the machine I bought from him.

#4927 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Is it the original design?

Yes the face is molded from the original design. The sides and bottom are not, more material was added to help prevent to common breaking that’s the originals were prone to. I don’t know how to link my Facebook page but I have a video of me painting a newly made one. You can search my name to find it. Chris Travis.

#4928 5 years ago

Question, How is the Pteradon mounted? I (like most JPs) are missing one.

Thanks!

#4929 5 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Yes the face is molded from the original design. The sides and bottom are not, more material was added to help prevent to common breaking that’s the originals were prone to. I don’t know how to link my Facebook page but I have a video of me painting a newly made one. You can search my name to find it. Chris Travis.

I recently bought a JP topper from Chris and I am very happy with it

#4930 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

How is the Pteradon mounted?

Both Pteranodon are mounted with a piano wire.
There is a "L" bend at both ends in opposite directions?
with round loops at the ends that take the mounting truss head screws on one side.
The other open loop side is mounted on the left side of the playfield.
So as to fit the model's in between the two wire forms (habit trails).
One is mounted under the Truss screw and above the plastic.
The other might be mounted under the keeps nut to the entrance gate
or other Truss head screw and plastics.
The wire forms break from air balls hitting the models.
The Pteranodon models sometimes block the ball paths on the
wire form ( habit trails). Operators would remove the models and throw them away.

#4931 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Question, How is the Pteradon mounted?

That sounds like the first line to a joke. Like, "What's a henway?"

#4932 5 years ago

Got my illuminated back panel up and running again recently...

94204EDA-76C4-4163-8DF4-8758B7609E07 (resized).jpeg94204EDA-76C4-4163-8DF4-8758B7609E07 (resized).jpeg
#4933 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Got my illuminated back panel up and running again recently...[quoted image]

Wow that looks awesome! Was it hard to do? I thought I read somewhere that it was quite the project and fabrication needed to be done.

#4934 5 years ago
Quoted from shepP:

Wow that looks awesome! Was it hard to do? I thought I read somewhere that it was quite the project and fabrication needed to be done.

I did mine it was really easy, LED strip and a small piece of clear plastic you can get from a hardware store is all you need. There should be lots of information on here on how to do it. One thing I would improve is some type of diffuser on the LEDs.

#4935 5 years ago
Quoted from shepP:

Wow that looks awesome! Was it hard to do? I thought I read somewhere that it was quite the project and fabrication needed to be done.

My game came with it. Chris sells the kit to do it.

http://www.rockcustompinball.com/product-page/backpanel-illumination

#4936 5 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I did mine it was really easy, LED strip and a small piece of clear plastic you can get from a hardware store is all you need. There should be lots of information on here on how to do it. One thing I would improve is some type of diffuser on the LEDs.

I have made dozens of these and they still take me 1.5hrs to build and I have the acrylic made for me. I have to drill all the holes for the hardware to mount etc... then the led build, I would not call it easy. Curious how you did yours and what it looks like. To diffuse the leds you can just set the leds back from the acrylic providing you replaced the whole wooden backing with the acrylic.

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Got my illuminated back panel up and running again recently...[quoted image]

Did I not animate the (when dinosaurs ruled the earth) like in this video?

#4937 5 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Did I not animate the (when dinosaurs ruled the earth) like in this video?

You did. It just makes the picture way too red to photograph with it on.

#4938 5 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

I have made dozens of these and they still take me 1.5hrs to build and I have the acrylic made for me. I have to drill all the holes for the hardware to mount etc... then the led build, I would not call it easy. Curious how you did yours and what it looks like. To diffuse the leds you can just set the leds back from the acrylic providing you replaced the whole wooden backing with the acrylic.

Post 452 you actually quoted it and I thanked you in it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/10#post-2361460

#4939 5 years ago

Ahhh, I had forgotten I made DIY kits. I was thinking you did it from scratch which as you know would be a challenge. I am very happy you were able to make it. Some people do not posses the skill required for such a DIY mod. That’s also why I offer a complete version.

#4940 5 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Ahhh, I had forgotten I made DIY kits. I was thinking you did it from scratch which as you know would be a challenge. I am very happy you were able to make it. Some people do not posses the skill required for such a DIY mod. That’s also why I offer a complete version.

Yeah and for the price you asking it has to be one of the best mods out there. I did it from scratch just followed how you did it. I bought a piece of acrylic from home depot. Its thin and the LED are a little close so I get minor hot spots.

#4941 5 years ago

I looked at your post, it still looks good!

Looks like post #438 is where I showed most of it. I do have drilled acrylics still if anyone wants to make a DIY project.

#4942 5 years ago

Does anyone have an accurate rubbers count?

I’m going to order Titan rubbers within a day or 2 and want to get it correct since the book is wrong.

I may just do a big kit so I can do another pin. Just worried about the oddball 2.75” or 3.25” etc.

It’s currently done in mostly white but I’m considering going black so I don’t take away from the game itself. Plus I’m picky so once I set a black spot on the white I feel the need to clean it. Thoughts? Comments?

Will also be installing all of my awesome Rock custom mods I got from Secret Santa this year

#4943 5 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Does anyone have an accurate rubbers count?
I’m going to order Titan rubbers within a day or 2 and want to get it correct since the book is wrong.

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.

I could use the correct ring count as well.

Thx

#4944 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.
I could use the correct ring count as well.
Thx

I know for a fact it’s wrong on bulbs and I’m 98% sure rubbers are wrong as well. I’m sure we’ll get some advice soon.

#4945 5 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Does anyone have an accurate rubbers count?
I’m going to order Titan rubbers within a day or 2 and want to get it correct since the book is wrong.
I may just do a big kit so I can do another pin. Just worried about the oddball 2.75” or 3.25” etc.
It’s currently done in mostly white but I’m considering going black so I don’t take away from the game itself. Plus I’m picky so once I set a black spot on the white I feel the need to clean it. Thoughts? Comments?
Will also be installing all of my awesome Rock custom mods I got from Secret Santa this year

Quoted from DropTarget:

The book is wrong? Uh oh, I just placed an order according to the manual.
I could use the correct ring count as well.
Thx

Quoted from ypurchn:

I know for a fact it’s wrong on bulbs and I’m 98% sure rubbers are wrong as well. I’m sure we’ll get some advice soon.

Here is what Titan has on their website can anyone confirm? Disregard the colors unless you can post pictures for what you used.

What the difference in thickness of the post sleeves?

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#4946 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Both Pteranodon are mounted with a piano wire.
There is a "L" bend at both ends in opposite directions?
with round loops at the ends that take the mounting truss head screws on one side.
The other open loop side is mounted on the left side of the playfield.
So as to fit the model's in between the two wire forms (habit trails).
One is mounted under the Truss screw and above the plastic.
The other might be mounted under the keeps nut to the entrance gate
or other Truss head screw and plastics.
The wire forms break from air balls hitting the models.
The Pteranodon models sometimes block the ball paths on the
wire form ( habit trails). Operators would remove the models and throw them away.

Are these available somewhere or do I have to create one?

#4947 5 years ago

Rubber rings:
3/16" I.D. = 5
3/4" I.D. = 3
1" --- I.D. = 1
1-¼" I.D. = 2
1-½" I.D. = 2
2-½" I.D. = 2
3/8" O.D. = 3
-
Note: left post to "boot-an-egg"
skinny hard rubber 545-5308-00
Tall post rubber ( ramp guards )
545-5009-00 = 3
Note: OEM was 1" long.

#4948 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Rubber rings:
3/16" I.D. = 5
3/4" I.D. = 3
1" --- I.D. = 1
1-¼" I.D. = 2
1-½" I.D. = 2
2-½" I.D. = 2
3/8" O.D. = 3
-

Note: left post to "boot-an-egg"
skinny hard rubber 545-5308-00
Tall post rubber ( ramp guards )
545-5009-00 = 3
Note: OEM was 1" long.

Thank you

#4949 5 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Here is what Titan has on their website can anyone confirm? Disregard the colors unless you can post pictures for what you used.
What the difference in thickness of the post sleeves?
[quoted image]

I think I'm going to go with shacklersrevenge list over on titan. It seems to be the most complete

Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

The original black rubber was so cracked, dead and broken, worst I've seen on a game I think. Shopped this out and made a red rubber kit at titanpinball.com with some corrections because the manual is incorrect.

Post Sleeves - 1/2 Inch (Stern / DE) Red 9
Post Sleeves - Standard Red 2
Post Sleeves - Standard Lt. Blue 2
Rubber Rings - Flipper Standard Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/16 Inch I.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch I.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 3/4 Inch I.D. Red 1
Rubber Rings - 1 Inch I.D. Red 1
Rubber Rings - 1 1/4 Inch I.D. Red 5
Rubber Rings - 1 1/2 Inch I.D. Red 1
Misc - Post Cap Lt. Blue 2
Misc - Post Cap Red 2
Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch O.D. Red 3
Rubber Rings - 2 3/4 Inch I.D. Red 2

#4950 5 years ago

I recommend the firmer Clifty post sleeves over Titan silicone ones, unless Titan now offers harder sleeves. If you get soft, rubbery sleeves, there will be very frequent airballs. At least that was my experience.

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